Compost barrel with your own hands. How to make compost in a barrel: installation methods, laying raw materials, ripening dates Compost pit from an iron barrel
To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible eyeliner also applies to installation gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.
Characteristics and types
Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:
- aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity aluminum braid is prone to rust.
- Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
- Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.
Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or of stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red - with hot.
When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.
Features of gas connections
When connecting gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible piping. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:
- PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
- synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
- bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.
Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The range is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.
Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess ground water.
If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.
Reasons for waterlogging the soil
There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:
- clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
- an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
- high occurrence of groundwater;
- technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
- violation water balance construction of irrigation systems;
- the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case big role atmospheric precipitation and the influx of water from higher places play.
What causes excess moisture in the soil
You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?
- the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and diet in the soil;
- arises oxygen starvation root-forming layer, which leads to the death of plant roots;
- the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
- there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.
Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs
Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:
- top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
- at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
- at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
- from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
- from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.
What is important to know when planning site drainage
Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:
- with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
- the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), decorative and fruit bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
- if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
- optimal groundwater depth for Agriculture- from 3.5 m.
Do you need site drainage?
Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.
Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?
Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?
Or is it worth it drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?
The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.
Upon completion of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement sewer system V apartment building, production building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing systems internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.
Visual inspection should be accompanied by entering into the act of testing internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulation of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.
For lack of space for a stationary composter, you can equip it in an ordinary plastic or metal barrel. It is better to use plastic, and for ease of mixing, hang it in horizontal position and attach a handle to rotate. The compost in the barrel will mature evenly and it will take less effort to shovel the contents.
Old metal containers quickly rot under the influence of moisture, and plastic is neutral.
In addition, you can buy a barrel of any size, depending on how much waste accumulates on the site. If only leaves and grass then a volume of 120 - 150 liters will be enough. If there is vegetable and fruit waste, tops, weeds, manure, then you need to take 200 - 300 liters.
Benefits of using a plastic composting barrel
If the site is equipped wooden box for composting, the bottom will sooner or later rot under the influence of the same bacteria. If there is no bottom, then nutrients will go into the soil under the box irretrievably. It is much more economical if the composter has a bottom and is resistant to microorganisms.
Do-it-yourself composter from a barrel can be made aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, it is necessary to organize regular air access to plant residues. This compost matures faster. If you use accelerators - bacterial preparations, then you can get fertilizer in 1 - 1.5 months.
Video: Compost barrels
For anaerobic fertilization, the compost barrel must be airtight. It is tightly closed or dug into the ground. The leftovers take longer to rot, but the fertilizer is more concentrated, as all the nutrients remain inside. Such compost is not used for seedlings in pure form and always mixed with soil.
It is easier to make a compost pit out of a barrel than to make a storage facility out of concrete, although concrete is also very good material for a stationary composter. To immerse the barrel in the ground, it is enough to dig a hole corresponding to the size of the container.
Can wrap walls and bottom mineral wool or other heat-retaining material. In such a pit, it will be possible to make fertilizer even in winter. Luke will serve plastic cover which is sold as a set.
How to make a barrel composter
There are many ways to prepare compost in a dacha in a barrel. The easiest is to leave it in the garden without digging into the ground.
To make a horizontal compost barrel, you need some tools and additional materials - wood or metal pipes. The first step is to weld or knock down the frame that will hold the barrel filled with compost raw materials.
It can be something like a bed with welded support pipes or wooden bars. A barrel will be attached to them, in the center of which passes metal pipe. In order not to damage the plastic, it is put on metal PVC pipe- It is smooth and durable.
How to prepare a barrel:
- Make a hole in which the raw material will be laid. To do this, cut a rectangular piece in the wall. With the help of metal canopies on one side, a piece of plastic becomes a door. On the other hand, it is necessary to provide a latch so that the ingredients do not fall out during scrolling.
- On both sides - in the bottom and in the lid, holes are made to pass the pipe through.
- The lid closes tightly and the barrel is put on the pipe, strengthening it on the bed. You can make a handle for convenience, but many do without it.
Summer residents attach wheels to the base of the frame and transport the composter for the winter to a warm place - a barn or pantry.
Preparation and laying of raw materials
Before you make compost in a barrel, you need to prepare the raw materials. It should be a mixture of nitrogen and carbon containing components. At the same time, nitrogen is laid 4 times less. Nitrogen-containing include all green components and manure. To carbon - straw, cardboard, dry leaves, sawdust, bark, cut branches of trees and shrubs.
Each ingredient needs to be sprinkled five centimeter soil layer, so that soil bacteria get into the compost and begin to multiply. If you use biodestructors, then it is not necessary to add soil. Bacterial preparations can be purchased at the store or prepared with your own hands from fermented milk products and yeast.
After laying compost withstand 5 - 6 days with the lid open and then inverted. When shoveling on the bed, the lid is closed, then opened again to allow access to oxygen. In the future, the compost is turned every 3 to 4 days. This speeds up its maturation.
To get the finished fertilizer, a bucket, wheelbarrow or other container is placed under the lid and the required amount is poured out.
Liked the article? Share with your friends:Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers on your garden plot? Then this article is for you. Look around. Right under your feet is what correct use will become humus, which can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.
Interesting fact:
Already in the X century, the secrets of making compost
were known Slavic tribes,
for example, the Polabian Slavs.
Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer , which any gardener, gardener and summer resident can get without unnecessary material costs and without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to know how to cook it right.
Rule 1
Where and what is the best way to compost
There are two options:
Compost pit/heap
Compost bin or barrel
Benefits of a compost pit/heap
No need to search additional materials and you don't have to build anything. You just dug a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 m x 1.5 m in size and put organic remains (kitchen waste, weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (you will get a bunch over time).
If desired, when the pit is filled flush with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has long overcome this mark. But I haven't built anything yet.
If the compost pit / heap is supported by walls, then inside the pit will be created comfortable conditions for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen
Disadvantages of a compost pit/heap
There is a compost pit on my site, which has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky, looks untidy (fortunately, it is located behind the barn and hidden from view). And most importantly - I can not shovel it.
In a compost pit for 1 year it will not be possible to obtain high-quality compost. It will take at least 3 years. But in it, it is apparently invisible. Worms are free there, they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that the husband digs for worms when he goes fishing. And carp on such a worm are excellent.
(pelvis diameter - 40 cm)
Compost bin or barrel
In the garden, I also placed a box and two compost bins. It's comfortable. While plant residues for compost are collected in one container, in another container the compost matures under the lid, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.
Adapted for compost leaky metal barrel and cracked plastic. I additionally punched holes in the bottom of the plastic.
The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that with my short stature it would be convenient for me to put plant residues in them and pour out the slop.
My compost bin is made from boards. But you can make it from cement-bonded particle boards with a thickness of 20 mm or metal mesh.
Benefits of barrels or boxes
Can be placed anywhere in the garden/garden.
Thanks to its compactness, it won't take up much space.
Looks more aesthetically pleasing than a pit/pile.
Thanks to holes and crevices, we get a kind of ventilation, which means that enough air enters the future compost, which is so necessary for the life of microorganisms.
Ready compost can be taken from the lower layers (through pre-made holes) as needed.
In a barrel or box, the compost does not dry out and does not wash out.
A barrel or box with ripened compost can be adapted for growing cucumbers or zucchini. It turns out a kind high bed.
Rule 2
What can be put in compost
1. All plant residues and weeds from garden beds and gardens, except:
* weeds with mature seeds
* diseased plants
* weeds treated with herbicides
Plant residues that are not suitable for compost I put in a special pile, hidden behind the fence in the back. Or take it out of the field.
2. Mowed grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and, if any, peat.
Speaking of fallen leaves.
Leaf litter significantly improves the quality of the compost. But it all depends on the type of wood. For example, linden leaves, containing a lot of lime, quickly decompose and form neutral humus, thereby enriching the compost.
3. Household (kitchen) waste, slop.
If slop from the kitchen is regularly poured into the compost barrel, then the barrel can not be specially watered. And so it takes up to 3-4 buckets of water per day.
4. Ash and, if any, bird droppings.
The alternation of layers occurs by itself, which has a beneficial effect on the compost. The fact is that vegetable peelings, weeds, cut grass contain a lot of nitrogen, sawdust - carbon, ash - potassium and trace elements.
Manure (slurry) I don't compost. Firstly, we do not have this "good". Secondly, with manure there is a risk of introducing diseases and pests into the compost. Here it is necessary to ensure that the compost rots for 2 years, or maybe 3, depending on the conditions.
It is not necessary to add earth to the compost heap. This can lower the rotting temperature and thus slow down the organic composting process.
Rich harvests to you,
Katerina Shlykova
Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form active link to the corresponding page on the website.
13.03.2017 1 409 0 ElishevaAdmin
Gardeners can receive environmentally free pure fertilizer- compost, collecting and processing into it organic waste- leaves, grass, etc.
Some make a compost heap, others make a compost pit, where the components rot and gradually form compost.
But this process can be accelerated, optimized, having the ability to mix the components often and actively. To do this, create a compost barrel.
You can make it easily and simply, having the minimum of tools that the gardener and gardener always have at hand. Yes, and the materials are not God knows what, they can also be found in your own shed or pantry. A barrel only needs to be purchased, maybe rollers.
Tools
Drill driver
Hammer
Electric jigsaw
Saw (reciprocating, table or ordinary hacksaw)
Cross bit and screwdriver
Pencil
materials
4 rollers;
Wooden bars of different lengths 50 x 100 mm (other sections are also possible)
Screws and nails
Plywood 6 mm thickness
Rubber bands
Making a compost bin
Having prepared tools and materials, let's get down to business.
1. The barrel should be closed, we will make a plywood lid. To do this, putting the barrel "on the butt", we will outline the circle of the neck. Take a jigsaw or saw and cut out a circle.
2. C inside lids will be nailed to the plywood with a few bars. To do this, we will inscribe a square in the circle of the lid (by eye), and place the bars at its corners. They must be fastened with nails (bend the ends) or screws.
3. The lid must be firmly fixed so that all the contents do not fall out of it during rotation. It is convenient to make a latch from rubber bands, providing them with hooks. The hooks will be threaded into the neck of the barrel, for this we will drill several holes.
Particular attention should be paid to the selection correct length harnesses. After all, they should be removed and put on without problems, while reliably holding the lid closed.
4. Let's make a frame from the bars on which the barrel will rotate. This is a rectangle, the long side of it slightly exceeds the length of the barrel, and the short side is about ¾ of the width of the barrel.
We take the bars and knock down a rectangle from them, in the corners for rigidity we fix the braces, cutting them out of the remnants of plywood.
How to make a compost pit or pile?
5. We will install rollers on the long sides of the frame, it is on them that the barrel will rotate. We fasten 2 rollers with screws on each long side, pushing them closer to the ends of the barrel. In this case, it is easier to rotate and more stable.
If the rollers are located close to the middle, the barrel may jump off during rotation.
However, the screws will allow you to adjust the position of the rollers, if necessary.
6. When rotating, the barrel tends to slide off the frame along the length. To prevent this, we will install an emphasis on one of the end sides of the frame. This simple board, which will hold the barrel in place.
7. In order for the contents of the barrel not only to slide along the walls, but also to be actively mixed during rotation, it is worth fixing several bars inside the barrel.
That's it, the compost barrel can now be used. Note that all operations to create it are done by eye, no precise measurements are required.
Compost heap: video on how to make it yourself
Compost heap for the lazy
11/20/2009 Labels: humus, compost, compost bin, manure, do it yourself
On summer cottages the compost heap is a must. After all, compost is a unique organic fertilizer that enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, which has now risen in price, as well as mineral fertilizers and brought specially fertile soil. In addition, by collecting organic debris throughout the site, we simply clean up the area around.
Of course, you should place a compost heap or waste composting boxes in secluded places so that they do not catch the eye and do not spoil the view. Nevertheless, they should always be at hand. When classical solution composting requires three sections for the production of compost: in one there is a process laying waste, in the other - the compost is ripening, in the third - the finished fertilizer is ready for export to the beds. In terms of size, many converge to the following proportions: width -1.5 m, height - 1-1.2 m, length - up to 3-4 m. These dimensions are given in many reference books, they are considered the minimum necessary to ensure temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. According to the same theory, it is advised to shovel the contents annually compost heap to supply air to the ripening compost, i.e. to speed up the process of waste decomposition. This task requires serious physical effort.
How to speed up the composting process?
But progress does not stand still, composting technologies are being improved and the compost production process has been accelerated by 2-3 times. For example, to preserve moisture and to increase the temperature in the compost heap, they began to cover it with plastic wrap with holes for air access. Also, to speed up composting, various accelerator preparations have been developed. this process, for example, the drug "Tamir". To speed up the process, you can also choose a certain composition of organic and other components of the compost heap being laid so that composting will be significantly accelerated. This suggests that today it is not necessary to follow the rigid recommendations developed in the last century.
Composting in an iron barrel
1 - holes in the barrel wall;
2 - green mass;
3 - manure;
4 - ash;
5 - earth;
6 - polyethylene.
So a modern compost heap can be made compact or, for this purpose, waste can be folded into a small container with a capacity of about 1 cubic meter. meters, making it from boards.
But, as you know, laziness is the engine of progress, so it may not cost anything to build. Let's just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and modify it a bit:
Firstly, to ensure air access in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we make 20-30 holes with a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm, or you can punch them with a punch. We place the holes at a height of 20-30 cm from the base of the barrel. And no insulating gaskets are needed between the barrel and the ground - microorganisms and moisture must move freely in both directions.
Secondly, we paint the barrel from the outside in dark color for better heating in the sun, which will provide high temperature inside and speed up the composting process.
The process of making compost in a barrel is very convenient and simple. Several of these barrels can be placed around the site, placing them in places where waste accumulates most quickly. It could be summer cuisine, beds, etc.
Layers for laying compost
To speed up the production of compost, fertilizer components should be placed in certain order, I form layers of a certain thickness:
First, we place green plants or carbon-rich substances, making a layer of them 15-20 cm thick.
Then we put 5 cm of manure or substances rich in nitrogen.
After we break everything with a centimeter layer of earth.
So we fill the barrel to the top, continuing to lay the layers in the same sequence - weeds, manure, ash, earth.
We cover the filled barrel with a piece polyethylene film with holes, which we tie with twine, so as not to be blown away by the wind. From time to time water the prepared compost with water so that it does not dry out. You can water at the same time as watering the beds. But it is not necessary to overmoisten the compost mass. In terms of humidity, it should correspond to the squeezed sponge.
If there are ants in the barrel, then the compost heap has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted. To automatically maintain the desired humidity in the barrel, plant a zucchini, pumpkin or cucumber there. In this case, the film is no longer needed. Watering these plants will keep the compost heap moist. The complexity of the last method is only to immediately fill the barrel with all the layers of compost to the top.
In this design of the compost heap in the form of a barrel, there is a significant acceleration of the composting process. And you don't have to wait 3 years classic version. No need to shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg of excellent fertilizer.
