Overview of European manufacturers of wooden ship models. Brief description of manufacturers of foreign and domestic bench models of ships Instructions for assembling a wooden model
Where they made calculations for all major manufacturers of sets of wooden ship models (mainly sailboats). Since then, a lot of water has flowed under the bridge, a lot has changed, so you can no longer use that information, it is too outdated. And so that you do not get into a mess when choosing, we decided to compile new review. It will include only European manufacturers. You can read about Chinese manufacturers of wooden ships in, and the only decent American manufacturer of wooden models (ships and planes): (Model Airways - wooden model aircraft) is now practically bankrupt after a change in management, so we will not take it into account. It is well written about the Japanese company, there is nothing to even add.
Let's start with clear favorites, and end with outsiders.
Over the past ten years, the Italian manufacturer of wooden models of ships not only has not lost its potential, but has increased it, breaking ahead in comparison with all other manufacturers. Now to the question "what is the best on the market of wooden models of sailboats", we will bravely stand up to our full height and, heroically looking into the distance, we will answer: "or three models of the company -,". What makes it take precedence over everyone else?
First of all, due to the material ( wooden slats). If the Spanish manufacturers ( , ) have poorly matched slats in color, have jagged edges, there may be curves or different size, then he doesn’t allow himself this (not ideal, of course, an experienced ship modeler and champion of various competitions will still be dissatisfied ... but, strictly between us, they are just terrible nitpicks). Only the company has such a quality of rails. For slats made of loose wood, for slats it is clearly not enough, but for slats in general there is only light ramin.
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Secondly, it is worth noting the quality of small parts (guns, blocks, yufers, threads, anchors, etc.). They are also noticeably better than those of other manufacturers of wooden ship models.
Next up: the assembly instructions are quite informative and detailed. There are exceptions, but for the most part the instructions are clear and readable. And the instructions for the new models of the Victory Models series ( , ) are simply pleasing to the eye. Still, computer developments make themselves felt. According to the instructions, only a Spanish company can approach Amati (and, objectively speaking, sometimes overtake).
Range. Amati has not only models that we can safely recommend for the first time ( , ), but also models that we are not ashamed to offer to an experienced modeler (HMS Fly, Mercury). Well, after the construction of Vanguard, you will either understand the futility of being (in the sense that the rest of the models will seem primitive), or move on to . To once again understand the futility of life.
OcCre has clear instructions in step by step photos which makes these models indispensable for beginners.
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As a rule, OcCre has a decent supply of material (rails), which is also important for the first time.
OcCre gives ready-made sails, which many others do not European manufacturers. Yes, the sails, in our opinion, are lousy, but, firstly, "our opinion" is the view of serious bearded ship modellers, and secondly, they are free. And in this situation, as you know, bleach is cottage cheese.
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You can even summarize the principles on which to base your choice of your first model:
1) we are deeply convinced that for the first time the most important thing is to finish the model, not to be disappointed halfway, not to put the project on the back burner. Gotta FINISH!
2) and therefore historical accuracy, the study of small things go by the wayside.
3) extremely important clear instruction on assembly (because the construction of a wooden model of a sailboat is very different from the assembly of plastic or paper models) and material margin (in case you mess up something at first or want to redo it).
OcCre ship models just have and good instruction, and material stock. Plus, the decent quality of the frame parts - you don’t have to trim or redo them simply because they were cut crookedly. So, OcCre models are perfect for those who want to try their hand at ship modeling.
Plus free sails.
Another Spanish company. More precisely, the former Spanish. Now all production is in China. Most likely, we could say the same about it as about OcCre. But "Made in China" brought all the advantages to naught.
Artesania Latina has a very wide range of wooden ship models, but after they moved production to China, we have a lot of complaints about the completeness of their models. Very, very often, the Chinese will either not put something in, or they will put something wrong. And this applies not only to cheap, but also to expensive, top-end models.
Another aspect of Chinese manufacturing is that they are constantly saving on something. Over the past five years, first model stands disappeared from kits, then assembly instructions became on CD instead of paper (savings, however!), and now drawings are not in A1, but in A3. But it should be a full-size drawing, from which you need to measure. And, of course, there was no packaging. Typical Chinese cheap option. However, prices remained at the level of European models. Therefore, Artesania Latina is systematically losing its market share. A great example for those who want to increase profits just by cutting costs.
The third and last Spanish firm -. This is a small division of the larger Diset company, which specializes in children's products. Children's specificity left its mark on the wooden models of Constructo sailboats. Firstly, Constructo's line of wooden ship models is not developing, there have been no new products for a long time. It is understandable, this is not a profile asset. Secondly, the quality of Constructo is stable, it has not fallen for ten years now. In general, Constructo has strengths(very informative assembly instructions), there are also weak ones (the use of mahogany rails (and they bend very badly, and with their color give the finished model of the ship a "souvenir" look), poor casting, often a single hull skin).
The Italian firm has changed little over last years. Therefore, everything that was said about her in our first article can be said now. The only exception is that at the current level of quality, the casting of Corel's wooden ship models looks unimportant. Very blurry. But the line of wooden models of sailboats of the XVII-XVIII centuries is very rich. In 2007-2008, Corel, seeing a decline in demand for its products, decided to expand into the segment of small cheap models. But she failed. All three models of Corel sailboats (,) turned out to be very mediocre.
Another Italian company -. Unfortunately, it never recovered from the 2008 recession. There are no novelties, the quality of materials (wood) is very mediocre. The instructions, as they were at the level of the 70-80s of the XX century, have remained. Even before 2008, Mantua began to gradually replace the deck plating with individual battens for laser-etched decks in their wooden ship models. There have been attempts to improve assembly instructions, but these attempts were very weak. In general, Mantua is unlikely to survive, because. Constant price increases are not a way out of the impasse. It's a pity, Mantua has interesting ship models that have no analogues from other manufacturers.
Self-assembly of wooden models is an exciting activity for children and their parents. To create a truly unique and high-quality piece for your home collection, you need to know exactly how to assemble a wooden model correctly.
How to make models from wood?
Assembling a wooden model is easy - instructions for phased production must be included in the 3D puzzle construction set. Therefore, carefully following the order, depending on age and experience, the child can independently or, having called for the help of parents, make a realistic 3D model of a tank, train, funny robot, an unusual theater or a doll house.Any work, including creative work, begins with the preparation of materials and auxiliary tools. If you plan to captivate your child with wood modeling for a long time, it is better to immediately purchase the entire essential tool aria. Having bought everything you need at once, be sure that your child will not abandon an unfinished model, because it did not work out. The investment of funds will definitely bring benefits - the child will stop getting carried away with gadgets and will be engaged in an activity that is harmless to health.
Ready-to-assemble wooden models
Time-consuming sawing out of plywood with a jigsaw is a thing of the past. Today on sale a wide range of quality wooden constructors, the details of which are easily removed from the base. Thanks to laser cutting, they are easily and accurately connected to the finished model. If you have purchased just such - be sure that the assembly will bring a lot of pleasure to your children, and adults too.
What will be needed?
To get started, a mat and fine-grained sandpaper. It may also be useful to use tweezers for connecting small parts and holding fasteners in hard-to-reach places.For models that require gluing or painting, you need a set of brushes, PVA glue and paint designed for wooden surfaces.
Well, it doesn’t hurt to stock up on perseverance and patience, since the assembly of the most interesting models designed for several hours of exciting work.
Instructions for assembling a wooden model
To start creating a unique model, immediately prepare the attached instructions - during the assembly process, you should have it before your eyes. Then lay out the tools in the workplace so that there is enough space for work.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a wooden model: 
If during the assembly of the model, you have to interrupt, do not forget to put the parts in a box to avoid accidental loss. clean up workplace so that you do not have to look for “lost” tools before continuing work or assembling the next model.
The first self-assembled wooden model is always the most important and memorable. And already 2-3 hand-made 3D models made of wood will allow you to answer the question: “How to assemble wooden puzzles?”, With confidence: “Easy and interesting!”.
Assembling wooden models is a healthy and exciting activity for children and adults, which guarantees the development fine motor skills hands, intelligence, self-discipline and good mood every day.
So, you have decided to get into modeling, but have a very vague idea (or no idea at all) about what it is, where to start and what it generally takes. In this short article, I will try to describe the whole process of creating good, high-quality models in an intelligible and understandable way for each reader.
Please note that no matter how strange some steps of this guide may seem to you, you still cannot miss them, otherwise the model will turn out to be bad, incorrect. While reading the article, you may come across unfamiliar words - I will not compile a list of terms and describe their meaning - just rummage on the Internet. We will study on the principles of aircraft modeling, which are also suitable for other areas. The basics of modeling are the same for everyone. So!
Chapter 1 - Where to start?
Of course, with the acquisition of the model itself. The most convenient place to buy a model, as well as accessories needed for its assembly, is a model store. You will first have to find out where this one is located in your city, and go there.In the model store you will see a large number (I hope you get to a good model store) boxes with beautiful pictures. If you don't understand anything about military equipment- choose the one that you like the most. And if you understand, then you will probably find the model that you have wanted to see on your shelf all your life. I wrote "probably" because, most likely, you will not find just such a model. And if you ask the seller about the reasons for its absence, you will hear one of three: the first - “there is no such model now, come back in a couple of months”, the second - “the model was, but discontinued and will not go on sale again”, the third - “ such a model is not produced at all by any, even the most miserable company.
Well, you'll have to choose something else. Have you chosen? Great, let's move on to the next item - buying a tool. You can choose the tool completely intuitively. The fact is that in reality, to assemble the model, you absolutely need absolutely all the tools sold in the model store, but you shouldn’t buy everything, because when you start assembling, you will still understand that you still didn’t buy the most important tool due to its absence in the store and you will have to make it yourself. But more on that later.
Most importantly - do not forget to buy glue - the model cannot be assembled only with the help of a moment and PVA lying around in your box, but do not worry, they will come in handy. I advise you to buy several adhesives at once - the usual model, second, helium second ... in general, choose what is closer to your heart. Don't forget to buy some putties, needle files, sandpaper... Then go to the paint shelf. Here the situation is no better than with the tool. You need ALL the paints sold in the store again, but if you drive to the store on your own and realize that you simply cannot take the entire counter home, buy at least all the base colors, as well as those indicated in the assembly instructions your model.
Choose 15 brushes for yourself (if the store does not have 15 brushes of different sizes, you can also buy brushes of the same size, but different manufacturers). Now you can move away from the counter with paints. In fact, to paint the model, you still need to buy an airbrush with a compressor, but you can not hurry yet. Until the moment when they are useful to you, you will find yourself in a model store more than once.
Now a very important tip: while in a model store, under no pretext, do not consider how much money you will have to spend. You NEED to buy it anyway - why spoil your mood in advance? Remember? Great, now go back to the model shelf and choose another model for yourself (why - you will understand when you become a really experienced modeler). Now go to the checkout and pay for your purchases. If you do not have enough money - do not try to leave something from the selected product. It’s better to call your wife and ask him to urgently bring the money set aside for the purchase of a refrigerator (do not regret it, you still won’t buy a refrigerator tomorrow and you can always put it off again, and you will have to assemble the model in the near future).
Chapter 2 - Building the Model
Based on the fact that you did everything correctly according to the first chapter, I can assume that you are already at home and ready to proceed with the assembly of the model. The first thing you need to do is take everything out of the box and carefully examine all its contents. You need to spend at least 15 minutes on this process. What is it for? Doesn't have of great importance- just look and enjoy. After you finish looking, put everything in a box, close it, find someone in the apartment (preferably a relative) and repeat the procedure with him. It is advisable to try to interest a person, but if you fail, it doesn’t matter either - just show him the contents of the box, put everything back and leave.Note: if there is no one in the apartment except you, then the second time you will have to look at the contents alone, but do not miss this important step in building the model.
Now take everything out of the box again, find sprues, on which there are halves of the fuselage and wings. Find in your purchases such a tool with which these parts can be separated from the sprues. Separate and fold the fuselage halves together. Consider this design for 5 minutes, then attach wings to it. Uncomfortable to hold? Try!
You can’t even pull a fish out of a pond without difficulty, and this saying fits perfectly for modeling. Now find something to temporarily fix your structure, such as tape. Wind all the details together, put on the table and admire a little more. Now disassemble everything in its original position and put it in a box. Close the box and set it aside.
Chapter 3 - Workplace
To assemble a good model, you need to properly prepare the workplace. To do this, you will have to allocate a separate table (the more - the better). If you don't have extra table, or there is nowhere to put it - you will have to convert your workplace (whatever it was intended for before) into a modeller's workplace. Suppose we are talking about a desk. If possible, remove from it everything that cannot be useful for assembling models in any way and try to come to terms with the idea that you will have to write in the kitchen or somewhere else - it is not convenient to remove all model accessories from the table every time, especially since assembling models should take up most of your time.Lay a special model "mat" on the table. Oh yes, I forgot to put it on the list. necessary purchases in a model store, well, it doesn’t matter, order it right now via the Internet. If you don't know what it looks like, just look through the entire catalog of the online store, and when you see it, you will immediately understand what it is about. in question. To simplify the search, I’ll still hint - it’s green and beautiful. The main thing is to buy a larger rug, preferably A2 or even better A1! But suppose that you still thought of buying it in a store and we can move on. So, lay out all the tools around you. You can not try to follow the order or some kind of sequence - anyway, after half an hour of work, everything moves between them. Arrange the colors. Well, that's enough for today, you can go play with the child or do something else.
Chapter 4 - Assembling Again
Let's get back to building the model. Ask your wife where she did everything that you laid out on the table yesterday (or when it was), explain to her that these things need to be handled very carefully and that in order to rewrite a cake recipe from the Internet, it is not at all necessary to remove everything from table.Look in your builder's toolbox for some model supplies (I think they should have been there), and set aside anything that seems relevant to building the model. It can be wire cuttings, pieces of plastic, a burnt transformer - everything can actually come in handy, so choose for yourself.
Return to the room and prepare the workspace again. Put the box with the model on the table, put the parts on the table and start studying the instructions. Do not anger your wife and go to eat, if you do not go too long - she will be offended. Arguments that you are busy with an important matter will not have any force, you will also have to come to terms with this. After lunch, wash your hands and try to get back to assembling the model. If you are distracted by something else, then postpone the assembly until the next free day.
Chapter 5 - Accuracy and Aftermarket Buying
So, you are back at your desk. Have you read the instructions? Now very important point- based on the fact that you want to assemble a good model, you can say with a 100% guarantee that the parts that are in the kit are either inaccurate or poorly detailed. There are a lot of parts missing at all and you will have to buy additional detailing kits, such as a resin cockpit or photo-etched parts. Most likely, these kits will not be available in the model store and you will have to order them via the Internet. After you order them, turn on your computer and find as many photos of the original aircraft you are going to model as you can. Think about what components and details in your model are made incorrectly or missing at all.As you go through the photos, you will have some questions that you will not find answers to and you will have to find some good modeling forum, register there and ask your questions. After that, while waiting for an answer, you can start browsing through all the topics in a row. Look at the clock - it's time for you to sleep. The next day, read what they told you, put the model aside and grab the second one you bought in the store.
Repeat the whole process from the second chapter up to this point. Now you need to wait for your order to arrive from the online store. But you have something to do: while reading the forum, you probably realized that you did not buy some very important tools, as well as an airbrush compressor. Take all the money set aside for the refrigerator and go to the store.
Make a list in advance, but you can not take it with you, anyway, you will need to look at all the counters and you will definitely remember everything. Buy everything you need and another model. You can go home. At home, repeat all the steps from the second chapter with the new model and hide it somewhere. Explain to your wife the need for a compressor and an airbrush, prove that an old refrigerator can be used without problems for several more years.
Chapter 6 - Assembly with the aftermarket
Did you get the package? Great! You can continue to collect the model! Consider a photo-etch kit, decide which of its parts can still be used, and which still have to be made by yourself. Everything, you can start. I will not delve into the assembly process itself in great detail - all its aspects have already been described more than once, and skills will come with practice. I, perhaps, will stop my attention only on the most important dogmas of modeling:- Try not to lose the instructions - the thing is quite useful. If you still can't find it - start looking in the other boxes, then in the pile of magazines in the toilet - if this does not bring results, then you will have to spend a lot of time searching.
- Before assembly, do not forget to check how the model fits into the drawings. Even if the inconsistencies are negligible, and you understand that no one will notice this on the assembled model - still correct this drawback, no matter how much effort it costs you. After all, it does not matter whether the error will be noticeable if YOU know about it!
- When you cut off parts from the sprue (so, for fun) that you will need only at the 30th assembly step, still think about how easy it will be for you to identify this part in the future. If you are assembling a cockpit and understand that the external antennas are very similar to one another, after cutting them off, try to remember well which one was under which number.
- Try to detail the internal components and elements as detailed as possible. Do not worry about whether these nodes will be visible on the assembled model. Even if not, and in order to admire them again you will have to break the model - work hard! And what if someone someday still breaks it and sees emptiness inside! The only thing - do not forget to take a picture of everything before you hide it forever in the fuselage.
- If you had the imprudence to drop a part smaller than 30x30mm on the floor - do not try to find it - the probability of a positive search result is minimal - just spend the time you can start making this part by hand, the more homemade it will be better anyway. And when your wife brings the lost part in a week and asks: “dear, what kind of plastic did I find today under the refrigerator?” Thank her and put this part in a special box as a keepsake.
- If you don't like a handmade part even a little, remake it, no matter how much time you spend on it. Remember the main thing - YOU will know that this part is not as good as you would like.
- If during assembly you need to sand some part of the model (for example, after puttying) - do not be afraid to damage the jointing. Anyway, it is not correct and you will have to cut it completely!
- If you do not find the tool you need for work, remember: every tool (exactly every one) can be made from things that are in your home. The only thing - sometimes for this you have to spoil something else, but do not stop even if this other one costs more than the necessary tool - you don't have time!
- Don't be discouraged if something doesn't work out for you - the prefix "re-" is essential for modeling. So words like cut, repaint, re-paste should not scare you. On the contrary, it should mean that you are doing everything right and gradually become a real modeler!
- Try to develop a reflex in your cohabitants - not to interfere with you when you are assembling the model. If the reflex is not developed, try not to pay attention to what is happening around you - abstract.
- Your relatives should also remember that everyone chemical substances that you are using are NOT harmful to health. But nevertheless, use them in a ventilated area and do not let children into the room during use - just in case.
- If during the assembly you will face such a problem that you cannot overcome at the moment (for example, the lack of the necessary material or the ability to make some part) - put the model aside and start assembling another one.
- So that you do not face another problem - the lack of a model that can be collected, every time you go to the store for one can of paint, buy at the same time one or two new models.
Chapter 7 - Painting
So, your model is assembled and ready to be painted. Of course, you had to paint the internal nodes, I did not focus on this - you probably figured it out yourself from the instructions. The only thing I forgot to say is that manufacturers are very fond of confusing modellers and specifically indicate the wrong colors in the instructions. Therefore, before you paint anything, guided by the instructions, be sure to check the original color photo. Since you most likely won’t find the right photo, and even a color one, buy yourself a few books on the apparatus you are assembling and try to find information in them about what color this or that part could be painted on the model you are assembling.If you do not find such information in the book, try to look for an eyewitness. In fact, there are quite a few ways to find out what color to paint, say, the back of the pilot's seat or any other part. But even if you fail, remember the main thing: in no case do not paint everything one-on-one, as indicated in the instructions!
Now start painting the model itself. First choose which coloration you want to reproduce. The instructions usually indicate several options, but this is not enough for a good color. Find a few more (5-10) on the Internet. Now you can choose. The choice should be to look for the option with the most difficult camouflage (even if it doesn't turn out to be the prettiest). Otherwise, everyone will think that you are looking for simple ways and no one among the modellers will respect you.
Apply a coat of primer to the model. Scratch the back of your head. While you are scratching, think to yourself: “I kind of puttyed it ... I sort of sanded it too ...”. Re-spackle and re-sand the model again. Prime again. This process can be repeated an infinite number of times. As well as the painting itself. The main thing is to learn how to remove the paint with which you paint. And go ahead, do not be afraid - the air in the compressor will not end, and paints, in general, are not so expensive. After you finally achieve the desired result of painting, put the airbrush in the drawer, put a large fingerprint on the model in the most visible place, remove the airbrush from the drawer and repeat all over again.
Repeated? I hope you don't repeat the fingerprint mistake and be more careful. Get to the decals. I think you already guessed that the decal that was sold to you with the model is wrong and bad. Order some suitable decals from well-known, expensive manufacturers, ruin some of the most difficult pictures, and make them yourself. Now the model needs to be given a realistic look. To do this, you will have to "spoil" the flawless result of your work with an airbrush - scrape, scratch, stain, wash off, because there are no clean, paint-free and scratch-free aircraft!
Conclusion
Well, here is your first quality model. Spend a few hours taking pictures and put the model in a prominent place. The only thing, in a conspicuous place, the model is subject to many risks - such as, say, dust or inaccurate movements of cohabitants. And, unfortunately, no matter how hard you tried on the model, it still cannot fly, and, touched by his wife, who is wiping dust on the shelf, it rapidly falls onto the parquet and shatters into small pieces there. Therefore, quickly rearrange the model from a prominent place to a safe place. Let her be hard to see there, but the model will live longer. Yes, and you collected it not in order to look at it, but for the sake of the assembly process itself. Well, have you found a safe place? That's all, you can take on the next model.Afterword
Of course, in this article I have not described everything related to modeling, I have described very little, and with each model you will receive more and more new skills. And if you really have never assembled models, and this article turned out to be the first one you read, do not stop there, maybe you should read other, more serious articles, but I hope that the essence of modeling is now clear to you. And if you have already assembled more than one model and read this article just out of interest, while the fifth layer of paint dries on the assembled model, I hope I at least cheered you up a little.Dopeless aka Rostislav Chernyakhovsky
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Mechanical 3D puzzles by Ukrainian designer Denis Okhrimenko are not just constructors, but the most complex wooden mechanisms. To make the process easier, traditionally, each set of spare parts comes with illustrated assembly instructions for Ugears.
Hour after hour, detail after detail, and now, finally, a real miracle of modern engineering is in your hands.
Assembly difficulties: lack of experience or information?
Those who are not familiar enough with the products of Ukrainian Gears mistakenly believe that these designers are an analogue of the famous Lego. In fact, it turns out that the mechanical toys of the Ukrainian brand are not created for children at all and carry a certain load. To develop a unique mechanical steampunk thing has become the main goal of the creators of wooden puzzles.
Ugears wooden puzzles are several plywood planks on which, with the help of laser machine, blanks for a future toy are cut out. Inside the package, the newly minted owner of the designer will certainly find a printed guide on how to assemble a 3D puzzle.
Toy developers are confident that the information provided in the instructions is enough for a “painless” assembly process, but many buyers strongly disagree with this.
It is especially difficult for beginners to assemble puzzles. Due to lack of experience and fear of breaking the details, most never finish the job. Others, more courageous and self-confident, start looking for information on the Internet.
They are in the highest demand. Users are sure that only videos maximally display the procedure and are able to somehow clarify the situation.
The process of assembling these puzzles is incredibly complex, requiring perseverance, attentiveness and painstaking work. Despite the beliefs of the developers, fast assembly constructor Ugears impossible either practically or theoretically. And the point here is not only the shortcomings of the printed instructions or the inexperience of the assemblers.
The greatest difficulties lie precisely in the process of assembling mechanical elements, because it is due to their toys that they come into motion. It is important to correctly connect all the parts of the rubber engine to each other or to fasten many gears in series in more primitive models.
It is understood that Ugears mechanical puzzles are assembled in several stages. Working on each individual element will require maximum time, patience and attention. It will be much easier to understand how to assemble 3D puzzles from a photo - similar instructions make the process much easier and save time.
If at the moment you are holding wooden tablets with details in your hands, most likely in the next couple of hours, or maybe days, you will have to fascinating process assembling these incredible new generation puzzles.
Having unfolded the package, in the first minutes of “acquaintance” with Ugears puzzles, I want to quickly find magic wand, wave it and op-la - "Locomotive" is already rushing along the rails. Painfully, everything is complicated and intricate in these designers.
Instructions on how to assemble Ugears wooden three-d puzzles will come in handy. Of course, it is attached to each set of parts, but sometimes a booklet with assembly recommendations from the manufacturer itself is not enough.
Taught by personal failures, lovers of Ukrainian puzzles share on the Internet important tips on the assembly of certain models, describe weak sides specific designers and urge not to make such mistakes.
Top-Ugears online store has prepared the most topical tips for the assembly of the most popular models.
We collect the cache
"Safe" is the company's bestseller. This toy attracts attention with its size, functionality and relatively low price. Despite the simplicity of the finished model, the assembly can seem like a living hell. Below are elementary tips on how to assemble the "Safe" and work with the codes.
First of all, it is worth noting that this is not just a toy. This is a full-fledged cache, and if it were made of metal, it would be possible to store more valuable things in it than jewelry and other little things. The "Safe" is based on a functioning code lock. Its realism causes difficulties during assembly, many do not understand how to set (make) the code. This moment slows down the further assembly and, accordingly, the operation of the toy.
Those who managed to understand this issue, set the standard number combination suggested by the "Safe" Ugears assembly instructions.
Newly minted owners want to make their toy invulnerable and try to install a code that would be known exclusively to them. However, after numerous attempts, it turns out that it is not so easy to do this, and there is not a single one on the Internet. useful article about how to set your code on the Ugears safe.
Manufacturers are still not limited to one combination. At the end of the assembly instructions there is a code table that allows you to choose a set of other numbers instead of the standard number "321".
Often, when the last gears have taken their places and the matter remains small, it turns out that the assembled safe is closed. Frustrated designers are trying to figure out how to open the safe, but it's impossible to do it in a humane way - without mechanical damage individual details are indispensable. To prevent this from happening, it is important to code the safe early in the build.
The legendary UG460 - collect "Locomotive"
The tender locomotive assembly kit includes a huge number of parts. In terms of difficulty, this toy occupies one of the main positions in the list of all Ugears products. Nevertheless, the assembly does not cause absolutely no difficulties.
Questions arise already in the process of operation. Many complain about the shortcomings of the company - during the movement, the Ugear Parovoz very often wedges. In turn, the creators say that the problem is not in the details, but in the wrong assembly. This situation is possible only if the rubber motor is assembled incorrectly.
Cars of old Europe - put together the puzzle "Truck"
This is another very serious model. Both in terms of assembly and in use.
Things often do not reach the second point - the set contains one magical detail, a real “splinter” of everyone’s favorite truck model. When the assembly process comes to an end, it turns out that part 147 remains, although the Ugears car is already ready.
As it is not paradoxical, but the truck functions perfectly without it. Until now, it is not known for certain what the cause of this problem is. Perhaps the model is not well developed or not carefully tested. Or maybe the users themselves invented some kind of assembly system and now they know exactly how to assemble without using one of the parts.
Slowly on the rails - "Tram" from Ugears
Perhaps the most romantic model of Ukrainian startups. Several trams running back and forth on special rails involuntarily immerse us in the atmosphere of old Europe. It seems that if you go a little deeper into the fantasy world, you can smell coffee and freshly baked croissants.
The model does not cause any particular difficulties. The factory assembly instructions that come with each set of parts will be enough even for beginners.
The clock mechanism in Ugears models - we assemble the "Timer"
"Timer" from Ukrainian Gears works on the same system as most watches, both old and modern. The “naked” appearance of the model allows you to view all the movements that take place inside - it is simply impossible to take your eyes off the continuous movement of numerous gears.
Legend of Ugears - puzzle "Flower"
It was with this model that the history of the brand began. Accessory is a prototype music box looks very elegant and intriguing.
Assembly does not require much time and experience. It is believed that it is with this toy that it is worth starting acquaintance with the designers of the new generation - there are few parts in the kit, so even a child will be able to assemble this puzzle.
Despite all the difficulties that arise during the assembly process, it is safe to say that the only key to Ugears puzzles is the instructions for 3D puzzles. The manufacturer's recommendations will be the most accurate and understandable, unlike the dubious advice of Runet users.
To assemble the model, the actual model and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model with high quality, you will need a lot of tools, tools, mainly inexpensive ones - a model knife. tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.
Model knives and cutters
The most important of all tools is good knife. A knife with a narrow blade is more suitable for working with model aircraft. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade in the process. In the role of a knife, a surgical scalpel has proven itself well.
Skin
To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of skins: with a larger grain for initial processing and very fine for finishing. It is advisable to use a waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn plastic. Water-resistant sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash off plastic filings.
Glue
The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It does not hurt to have a special glue for connecting transparent parts.
putty
Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all kinds of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.
masking tape
Masking tape is widely used in the assembly of models. It can not only protect surfaces during painting or puttying, but also fasten parts during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin a tape as possible.
Dye
A large number of paints for models are produced, from miter to acrylic paints on water based. Finishing is best done with acrylic or oil art paint. IN last case the finished model must be blown out with a semi-matte varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint gives a matte surface, while the model of the aircraft should glisten slightly.
brushes
For painting, you will need three brushes: thin, medium size and large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. Brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried after use.
| Brush "Revell", marten, №4/0 |  | Brush "Revell", №2 |
A properly organized workplace is a big deal. It is most preferable for modeling to have a separate big table, but you can also work in the kitchen when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice the defects of the models.
Instrument location
The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so. to have it at hand. There is nothing worse than looking for a missing knife during the assembly process.
File and KP
Separated small parts are well stored in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not be lost. For files, it does not hurt to start an album.
Tweezers
In the kit of the combined model there will always be parts that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeler. Tweezers are indispensable in this case. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.
Airbrush and compressor
Without an airbrush and a compressor, the vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the process of painting. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to do modeling more or less seriously. The airbrush and compressor will require the largest financial outlay, divorced from family budget. Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the last - the most important !!!). It is generally accepted that painting with an airbrush is easier than with a brush. The question is debatable, however, in any case, the result of painting with an airbrush, all other things being equal (experience of the modeller), is superior to the result of working with a brush. In addition, a number of camouflage schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) during the Second World War can only be done with an airbrush.
Knife set
One model knife is sometimes not enough, it is better to get three: with a sharp, cut and rounded blades.
And you definitely need spare blades for a model knife. You can buy them in the tool store or on Aliexpress: .
"Extra Hands"
Small metal clips "alligators" help a lot in the work. Used by radio installers. They are good at holding small parts when gluing and painting.
When assembling and especially when finalizing a model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro-drill and a set of small diameter drills. The drill can also be used to process the surface of the model using different nozzles.
wire cutters
Separate parts from frames, bite off flash, etc. best of all with small side cutters, borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.
file
The model with cut control surfaces looks much more realistic than the one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by the linework. Cutting is best miniature saw. made from a razor blade.
Hole puncher
Hole punches of different diameters are useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, the Japanese circles of the “rising sun”. Painted identification marks are preferred over decals.
It is hardly possible to list all the tools necessary for assembling the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.
We buy a model
We have acquired a tool, now you can choose a model. At first, the wisest decision is to stop at something simple, for example, one of the single-engine fighters of the Second World War period: the North Amerpyun P-51 Mustang, the Mitsubishi Zero, or the R-public P-47 Thunderbolt. By assembling these models, you can acquire basic assembly and painting skills.
The models of these aircraft are relatively simple. Both in the 48th and 72nd scales they contain not so many details. For the most part, that Thunderbolt. that the Mustang and the Zero were painted in only two colors - a plain top and a plain bottom. It is better to start with the 72nd scale, if only because of its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you don't have experience then why spoil expensive model if you can ruin a cheap one?
After assembling several single-engine propeller monoplanes, you can proceed to experiments on multi-engine machines, “jets”, biplanes, as well as “whales” in 1:48 scale and above (if you have a desire and there is a separate apartment for finished models).
Examination
Having received a model from the seller, do not rush to thank him. Open the box and make sure that all parts, decals, and especially the cockpit canopy, stated in the instructions, are present. It would be useful to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China can manage to put a Messerschmitt in a Spitfire box. not to mention the replacement of Bf.109E with Bf.l09G. Check the quality of the castings - there are underfills.
If you find the complete match of the kit - thank the seller and run home to collect the model. Select houses the right tools and lay them out neatly on your desktop. You can move on to the next step.
Studying instructions
You will probably start studying the instructions along the way. This is by no means forbidden (but not welcome either - you can get hit by a car). Evaluate the instruction from a critical point of view. Its author has his own view on the model assembly process, you may have your own. Sometimes it makes sense to change the build order. However. do not rush to scold the author if you did not like something. Try to delve into the ideas that led the technologist to this particular assembly order. Maybe he is right, not you?
Check for lice
The overall quality of the model is fairly easy to check. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it worked out easily and without displacement, then you bought the Thing. If not, stock up on putty, sandpaper and patience. Cut off parts, so as not to lose, it is recommended to keep in a special box. Parts should be separated from the sprues with a knife or side cutters, but in no case should they be broken off. If necessary, the places where the parts are attached to the frames should be cleaned after separation.
Fuselage assembly
So, you have examined the model. The euphoria has passed, you can get down to business. Let's start with the fuselage.
Parts cleaning
On the castings, there may be traces of mold lubricant, and other grease stains, they should be removed. Immerse the sprue or already cut parts for ten minutes in warm water, then thoroughly scrub them with soap with an old toothbrush. Rinse in running water and put to dry.
Cleanup
After the parts are dry, clean the flat surfaces with a large piece of sandpaper, go over the sandpaper with the ends of the fuselage halves. The operation has two goals - to remove possible large irregularities, and to make the place of gluing the halves absolutely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for better adhesive adhesion. Clean also the places where parts are attached to the sprues.
It happens that one of the halves of the fuselage is molded with protruding parts, for example, with the tail landing gear. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after the fuselage is assembled. The second way is to take a small wooden block, wrap it with sandpaper and process the end of the fuselage rugs, sanding especially carefully in the area of the protruding part. At the very detail, it is best to scrape not with a sandpaper, but with a half of a razor blade. Remove the burr with a model knife. In addition to the factory, a small “flash” may appear when sanding. Some plastics peel off. Pay attention to the flash not only on the ends, but also in the area of the cutout for the pilot's cabin lamp, in the air intake hole, in the places where the stabilizers and wing planes are glued. Remember: when a defect “comes out” during painting (and it will definitely “appear”), it will be too late to correct it.
Lantern fitting
Fold the fuselage halves. They should fit together perfectly. If necessary, repeat the stripping of the halves on the skin. Attach a flashlight to the folded fuselage (as long as it can be fastened with rubber bands). The lantern, again, should fit perfectly "in place". Otherwise, carefully sand it to fit the fuselage. There are "deadly" options - the lantern is thicker than the fuselage. Well - with-skinned plexiglass, then run to the store for the GOI infusion. With GOI paste, it is quite possible to restore the transparency of the lantern to a more than acceptable level.
Modern modellers use Future Floor Finish (Floor Wax)- American liquid for polishing floors. Adds transparency and shine to transparent decals.
It is much worse if a gap is formed between the canopy and the fuselage, and the top of the canopy fits perfectly into the rear of the fuselage. Such a defect is “treated” with putty. The trouble lies in the color of the putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Painting the putty from the inside with a glued lantern is a more difficult task than assembling a ship model in a bottle. The process is elementary only in one case - when there is a huge cutout for the center section at the bottom of the fuselage.
Cab Interior Customization
It's time to separate the cabin interior elements from the sprues: dashboard, floor, back wall. Fit the parts in place by grinding and inserting them into the fuselage halves. Often the floor and dashboard are too wide for the glued fuselage halves. On some models, the cockpit side panels are molded integrally with the fuselage halves, on some models, the cockpit floor, together with the side panels, forms a kind of bathroom. The bathroom is also often wider than necessary. Get it in place.
Now cut off small details of the cabin interior from the sprues - the control knob. pedals, pilot seat. Clean them up and put them in a box so you don't lose them.
Cabin interior painting
Sometimes in the process of building a model you have to paint individual parts or sub-assembly, cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and painting in the same way as large ones: removal of breakage, traces of pushers, cleaning of molding seams, washing, drying and degreasing.
Pay attention to the selection of paints for the interior of the cabin. Group the parts by color. Details that are painted in different colors it is convenient to clamp in the "crocodiles". Make sure that the alligator's "teeth" grip the parts securely - a jet of compressed air is quite capable of sweeping a loose part. First of all, the cabin itself is painted in the base color (most often it is inner sides fuselage halves). After the base tone has completely dried, proceed to “painting” with a brush the elements of the “decoration” of the cabin: radio stations, trimmer controls, oxygen supply tap, etc. Most often, these elements are painted black, but other colors are also found.
Before assembly, it is also worth painting the visible inner surfaces of the air intakes and engine cylinders.
Dashboard trim
The easiest way is to transfer the enclosed decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are equipped with such decals and almost all decals are best case meet the realities of 20-30 percent. Much more realism is possible by painting the dashboard with a brush with paints on water or oil based. It is necessary to paint the dashboard in the base color even when using decals. It is easier to paint dashboards on which individual instruments are simulated during casting, especially if the base color of the board, as on the Mustang or Zero, is black. The part is completely painted with matte black paint, then the edges of the devices are outlined with a lead pencil. In conclusion, a drop of liquid glass or at the worst end of colorless nail polish is poured onto the scale of the device; after drying, the varnishes or glass are slightly polished.
The instrument panel of the Thunderbolt was painted black, the instrument scales were painted white. Again, you will have to start by painting the dashboard in matte black. After complete drying, a drop of white paint is applied to the center of the imitation of the scale of the device and “smeared” to the edges of the device. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.
The next step towards realism is the imitation of the instrument scales themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. Scales are drawn with a thin brush.
Cabin interior assembly
After painting the cabin interior elements, you can start assembling. Provided that the parts are pre-fitted, it should not cause difficulties. Contact points should be cleaned of paint. It is best to connect parts with liquid glue, using the capillary effect known from the physics course. Two parts are pressed tightly against each other, a drop of liquid glue is applied to the joint. A drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will turn out to be both strong and neat. When gluing, it is important that the glue does not get on the painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - painstaking work will go down the drain.
It is most convenient when the interior of the cabin is made in the form of a "bath", as in the Thunderbolt model. The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and must dry at least overnight after gluing. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try on the assembled module to the fuselage. If the module fits, glue it to one half of the fuselage and lie down to fill up. If not, adjust with a familiar method of sanding, cutting and undermining excess plastic. After gluing the “bath” and lightly setting the glue, make a final check - put the fuselage halves together again, one of which has already glued the cockpit.
Assembly of the fuselage halves
Usually, the manual recommends applying glue to the mating surfaces of the fuselage halves. Most do just that, but in this case, there is a high probability of uncontrolled extrusion of excess glue on the outer surfaces of the assembly. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: fold the halves and smear them along the contour with liquid glue, apply the glue carefully with a brush. True, in this case there are some pitfalls: adhesives can easily get on the fingertips, and the latter leave hard-to-remove prints on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep the fuselage away from the seam with your fingers when applying the adhesive. The glued halves should be clamped with something (rubber bands, clothespins) and left to dry.
After a few hours of drying, it is necessary to flush the adhesive seam, having previously protected the cockpit from sawdust with adhesive tape. Sometimes the seam has to be puttied. The putty should also be allowed to dry well. The seam is cleaned with skins of different grain sizes (from medium to fine).
The first step in assembling the aircraft model has been made. You can smile proudly, proud of your achievement.
Add a wing and plumage
It makes sense to start with the tail: until the wing is glued to the stabilizer and the rudders are easy to rise.
Correction of defects of the brutal tail
On most small-scale Mustang, Thunderbolt and Zero fighter models, the halves of the stabilizer are cast in one piece (top and bottom together). Most of the time they are defect free. If there are defects, then it is recommended to apply "hot cleaning".
Heat the water to a boil and lower the part with an unnecessary bend into it for a few seconds. Remove the part until it has cooled straighten it. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.
Thinner parts require less heat. All surfaces of the tail unit have sufficiently thin leading and trailing edges, hollowly eliminating the defect by bathing in hot water You can easily damage the edges. It is desirable to bend only thick tea "stabilizer.
Prepare the halves of the stabilizer for gluing - sanding, washing, drying, degreasing.
Fitting surfaces of plumage
Insert half of the stabilizer into the fuselage. As a rule, the junction even on good models requires adjustment. The gap will have to be puttied after gluing, but for now it is necessary to assess how accurately the surface of the stabilizer fits the fuselage sagging. If the bead is thicker, then it must be adjusted to the profile of the stabilizer, if the stabilizer is thicker, then it would probably be better to increase the bead profile with putty after gluing the half of the stabilizer.
Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces
Now that you have fitted the tail assembly in place, you can start gluing it. If a rudder is given separately, then start with it. Apply maple to the docking surfaces and press the rudder against the fuselage. In most cases, the rudder is glued on as if it were in the neutral position, so be sure to look at the front, rear, and top of the model several times to make sure the rudder is in the correct position.
After the adhesive seam of the rudder and fuselage has hardened, you can proceed to attaching the horizontal halves. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of symmetry of the fuselage. By eye, the correctness of gluing the stabilizer is best checked by examining the assembly strictly from behind with a turn of 90 degrees. In this case, the stabilizer takes vertical position and it is easier to mentally compare the mutual position of its halves, the halves must be on the same axis. Having set right angles, fix the halves of the stabilizer with something (for example, masking tape) until the glue dries completely.
Wing
The wing planes are sometimes given in two halves, the upper and lower, sometimes the right and left upper parts and the common lower for the right and left planes, there are also wing planes cast in one piece. Problems that can arise with a wing are akin to a stabilizer problem.
Alignment and gluing of the rigid wing
Rigid wing defects are eliminated by the already familiar “heat-bending” method. Then the plane is adjusted to the center section. When gluing planes, the angle of the transverse "V" and the installation angle of attack should be controlled. It is important to maintain the same angles of attack and "V" for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the angles of the planes will be clearly visible on the assembled model. The uniformity of the transverse angle is conveniently controlled by the width of the slots between the planes and the center section. Gluing planes. Check the installation angles and fix the position of the wing with masking tape or tape. After the glue has hardened, the cracks are puttied and sanded. It is extremely inconvenient to work with emery at the junction of the plane and the fuselage, moreover, the paneling is almost always damaged during work. However, there's nothing to be done, not to leave gaps. It is quite possible to restore the stitching with the proper skill.
Alignment and gluing of the wing planes from two halves
The first step is to grind the ends of the halves of the planes on the skin, a similar operation has already been done with the halves of the fuselage. Let's put the halves of one plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ends and the lines of the jointing should converge. In practice, you usually have to remember the saying “pulled out the tail - the nose got stuck. After combining the highlanders, one of the endings “leaves” somewhere, the lines of the jointing do not match. It is best to take as a starting point when gluing the coincidence of the lines of the jointing of the upper and lower halves. Preparation for gluing is carried out as usual. The halves are folded again and fixed with narrow strips of camouflage data. Bonding occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is passed with a brush with liquid glue. After which the adhesive has set, the fixing strips are removed, and glue is dripped onto those joints that they covered. While one plane dries, you can do the second. Finishing surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane is carried out only after the adhesive has completely dried. The assembled planes are glued to the fuselage as well as the whole halves. Once again, it does not hurt to remind: control the installation angles, first of all - the angle of the transverse “V”.
Aligning and gluing a three-part wing
The process of assembling a wing from three parts (two upper halves of the planes and one lower, cast in one piece with the lower surface of the center section) will be different than assembling wings from four and two parts.
Prepare the parts for gluing as usual. Reinstall the lower part of the wing and secure it with masking tape. Check installation angles. Then attach the upper ladles of the planes in place and also fix them with adhesive tape (the same problems may arise here as when joining the upper and lower halves of the wing of four parts: not joining the tips and joint lines). Check the cross "V" again. If you need to reduce the angle, insert spacers made of thin plastic of the same thickness into the slots between the fuselage and the upper halves. Glue the lower wing piece to the fuselage. After drying, once again check the transverse “V” and the correct fit of the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine - make the capillary effect work for the good deed of gluing the upper halves with the lower part. After setting the main adhesive seam, remove the adhesive tape, coat with glue the joints previously covered with masking tape.
The assembly must be completely dry before sanding and sanding. Sanding the edges of the wing and the junction of the planes with the center section completes an important step in the assembly of the model. Now the model already looks like an airplane.
