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Ground care in autumn. Whether to dig a trunk circle around the trees. Secrets of the formation of crowns of fruit trees

When the fruits are harvested, the plants send slag substances into the foliage, thereby purifying their body. There is a laying of fruit buds. Plants reduce the water content of their tissues, significantly reducing sap flow. If in the summer garden plants were in active growth, then in the fall they ripen the wood and thicken the bark on young shoots.

Plants thus prepare for wintering. But what if, suppose, a wind came up and cut off the already weakly sitting, but not yet yellowed foliage?

Or the gardener, out of inexperience, carried out a formative pruning of the crowns, and it rained all autumn - and the young shoots continued to grow. In addition, herbivorous mites, aphids, wasps, butterflies and beetles attacked the trees - always headache gardener. As a result, the plants were incorrectly or insufficiently prepared for wintering, or even turned out to be unprepared for it.

And in the spring we will see black branches beaten by frost, cracked bark, frostbites, dried fruit buds, revelry of ticks, flies, aphids, moths, butterflies and other uninvited guests.

If this happens with wild trees and bushes, for example, with a wild apple tree, a thorn, a mountain ash somewhere outside the site, many will not even pay attention. But on the garden plot, this is striking and indicates the unwillingness or inability of the owner of the garden to deal with his pets. We live in a zone of risky farming and therefore are simply obliged to carry out the entire annual cycle of activities to care for our garden.

To survive the cold

Very important question- decrease in the intensity of sap flow in the tissues. If the wood is wet, then when water freezes at sub-zero temperatures at night, longitudinal cracks will form on it. Sometimes these cracks can penetrate very far and deep, dooming the trunks to splitting, and the plant to death. If the bark is strong, it prevents the splitting of wood, but the tender cambium cells freezing under it with the onset of heat are quickly affected by fungi - weeping areas are formed,

shafts, and the bark itself is cracking. Looking ahead, we note that any cracks and frostbites are cleared to a healthy tissue, covered with pitch and covered with burlap or matting.

But it's better not to let that happen. Potassium (K) helps to reduce sap flow. It is applied in the form of potash fertilizers or furnace ash to the root circle, that is, to the surface around the trunk, which for most plants is limited by the projection of the crown on

Don't let it dry out

Any living organism, including plants, in the process of life releases the so-called dissimilation products, called slags. In humans and animals, they are constantly excreted and only a small part of them is deposited in the tissues. In plants, almost all dissimilation products, with the exception of oxygen and water, are slags. A very small part of them is displayed by the root system. And the bulk is sent to the aging foliage. Moreover, it has been noticed that the loss of chlorophyll, that is, the green pigment, by foliage is just associated with the accumulation of slag substances in it.

If the foliage is dried up or beaten by mites, it turns yellow, turns brown and dries even before the plant sends a current of toxins into it. That is, the gardener is faced with the task of preserving the green color of the foliage until a certain time. It's easy to do. Dryness is removed by regular irrigation of the crown with fine spray water. Naturally, they do this in the absence of rain and in the evening hours. Regular watering under the root also helps to preserve the leaves.

Formative pruning is carried out after the foliage has fallen. Autumn pruning is preferable, since the plant does not need to nourish and prepare a large amount of crown for wintering. 4-5 fruit buds are left on the branch. Sections more than 1 cm in diameter are covered with garden pitch, RanNet, green oil paint or minium. Normally, the branch is cut off about 5 mm from the fork - so that the remaining bark grows over the wound over time. But during autumn pruning, such a low cut contributes to the freezing of unprotected wood. Therefore, in the fall, a stump about 5 cm long is left, and in the spring it is cut closer to the fork.

Treatment of the garden with preparations

Black, gray or red spots on the foliage indicate its defeat by fungi. EU / and there are few such leaves, they are picked by hand. Otherwise, the crown is treated with fungicidal preparations.

The fight against insects and mites is carried out using special pesticide preparations. You just need to remember that insecticides - poisons for insect control - do not destroy ticks, which should be controlled with acaricides.

On labels, the classification of the drug is written in small print somewhere near the commercial name or active substance. Important: drugs with different sonorous commercial names may contain the same active ingredient.

If the pesticide preparation is of the class of insectoacaricides, then it is simultaneously effective in the fight against both insects and mites. If different insecticidal and acaricidal preparations are used, they should not be mixed. It is better to spread their application for 1-2 days.

Plants should be treated in the evening in dry weather. Green soap or other saponifier must be added to the working solution, which contributes to good wetting of surfaces. Processing should be carried out after harvesting until the first night frosts with a frequency of 1 time in 2 weeks.

Don't forget fruit trees!

I start autumn time in the garden with cleaning the foliage under the trees. Thus, I do not allow pest pupae to overwinter and continue their destructive actions in my garden.

After all the foliage is collected and placed in compost, I carefully dig up the ground under the apple trees - this will neutralize most of the pests that have already gathered to hibernate under the tree. They will die at the first frost.

I'm also removing the trash.

In no case do I compost it, but bury it away from the garden. After this necessary sanitization, I proceed to feeding the apple trees.

To apply dry fertilizer, first remove upper layer soil in the near-stem circle (1-2 cm), distribute top dressing and return the soil to its place. For 1 sq. m of soil I bring 5-6 kg of humus, wood ash.

I usually combine this top dressing with moisture-charging watering, which is essential for every garden so that winter frosts do not pull all the moisture out of the trees. This watering is called water-charging, because it needs a lot of water. You need to wet the ground by 1-1.5 m. The degree of moisture can be determined as follows: dig a hole 30 centimeters deep among the trees and take a piece of earth from its bottom. Squeeze it in the palm of your hand and see how it behaves. If during compression you get a dense lump that leaves a wet mark on the paper, you do not need to water. If the lump is dense, but leaves no trace, reduce the watering rate by 30%. If the earth is dry and does not hold a lump, get ready to water it in full.

Watering is carried out by digging furrows around the circumference of the crown. Irrigation rate subject to full program- 10-15 buckets of water per 1 sq. m. For young trees, this rate is 3 buckets. So, with a little work, you save fruit trees until spring and you can expect a great harvest from them!

Most gardeners consider it their main task to prepare trees for the fruiting season in the spring. But in order to get good harvests regularly, you need to do some procedures in the autumn months. In order for the plant to overwinter well without reducing the number of fruit buds laid in the fall, you need to know how to properly care for an apple tree in the fall and how to prepare it for winter.

Features of caring for an apple tree in autumn and preparing for winter - general tips and tricks

Preparing a fruit-bearing tree for the winter period should begin immediately after harvest. If you perform all the procedures correctly, slowly, before the onset of the first frost, then next year you can get a significantly greater result than this season.

Allocate the following stages autumn care behind an apple tree and preparation for winter:

1. Soil care near the base of the plant- next to the trunk, within a radius of 1-1.5 meters, all fallen leaves, sprouted weeds, dry branches and fallen fruits are removed.

Before the arrival of the first frost, the soil should be well moistened near the root system. Such a procedure for watering in the fall will increase the frost resistance of the tree. It is immediately recommended to feed the apple tree with phosphate and potash fertilizers.

It is required to loosen the crown shading zone with a pitchfork or other tool, while the main thing is not to damage the root. The last procedure is mulching near the base with peat or pine bark.

1. Stripping the diseased and old bark- for the event, you need to take an oilcloth (2 meters), gloves and a sharp piece of plastic (metal tools will not work).

It is best to perform the procedure after heavy autumn rain. But if there hasn’t been one for a long time, then it’s worth moistening the bark well. This is necessary so that when removing old and damaged sections, do not damage the barrel. If mechanical damage has occurred, you need to cover the cut with garden pitch.

1. fruit tree pruning- the procedure must be performed 21 days before the appearance of the first frost. Before the temperature drops, all cuts need to have time to tighten, otherwise the branches may freeze slightly. For apple trees of different ages autumn pruning somewhat different.
2. Branch spraying- helps fight possible diseases and the invasion of harmful insects by irrigating the branches and trunk with chemical insecticides.

Attention! You can use not only standard preparations (copper sulfate or urea), but also potent substances. Spraying should be done only on a sunny day, in the absence of wind.

1. Mulching an apple tree- the process is performed using any improvised material. It could be straw sawdust or finely chopped pine bark, old rotted humus, peat or compost. Such a covering layer serves as a kind of insulation for the rhizomes of the apple tree.

Each procedure is performed in a strictly limited period. If you are not lazy, but complete the tasks on time, then the entire list of operations does not take much time.

Pruning apple trees in autumn

Removal of excess branches of the apple tree is necessary to form the crown of the tree- the lower tiers should be much longer than the upper ones. It is best to give the tree a cone shape, which facilitates harvesting, good ventilation of all parts of the tree and the flow of light in all corners.

Video: how to cut an apple tree in autumn

If the tree is old and has ceased to bear fruit in normal quantities, then pruning is carried out for the purpose of rejuvenation. Young apple seedlings are pruned in a more gentle mode. In the latter, all broken, damaged or dried sprouts are removed.

Important! It is necessary to prune apple trees both in spring and autumn. The main thing is that at the time of removal of excess shoots there is no sap flow. If the procedure is carried out for the purpose of rejuvenation, then it is better to perform it in the spring due to the fact that the cuts are delayed for a long time. During this period, frozen branches are removed, a crown is formed.

The scheme for the correct pruning of an apple tree in the fall is shown in the photo:

Note! It is recommended to carry out the procedure 3 weeks before the first frost. But if it was not possible to calculate and the frosty days came earlier, then the time for pruning the apple tree should be calculated in such a way that at least one week is left before the onset of cold weather.

In what month is it better to prune an apple tree in the fall? It appears to be around the beginning of October.

When pruning an apple tree in the fall, you can be guided by several types of removal of excess shoots. Types of pruning depend on the age category of the fruit-bearing tree:

• 1-4 years - light pruning is performed. ¼ of the entire mass of branches that have grown since spring awakening is subject to removal.
• 5-7 years - the average degree of elimination. 1/3 of all shoots of the apple tree that have grown during the fruiting period are subject to cut.
• More than 7 years - strong pruning for the purpose of rejuvenation. It is recommended to eliminate ½ of the growth that has grown over the past year.

To properly prune an apple tree, you need not only to have the desire and time, but also suitable tool. In order not to damage the plant, to remove excess branches, you need to take a pruner, a hacksaw, a well-sharpened knife. All appliances are carefully sharpened and disinfected.

In addition to tools, you should purchase a garden pitch. It contributes to the rapid healing of the resulting wound after the cut.

When planting, a young tree is cut off immediately due to the fact that the root is not yet fully developed, and in fact it has to not only nourish the trunk, but also support normal condition branches. At large volume the root system simply cannot cope, and the tree dies.

Video: correct pruning apple trees in autumn for beginners

Having cut off an initially large volume from the total crown, the tree can not be cut until 3 or even 5 years.

Rules and scheme for pruning a young apple tree in the fall:

1. Competing branches are completely eliminated under the ring.
2. If the main shoots are long, they should be shortened.
3. If the shape of the crown is pyramidal, then the removal of extra branches is carried out on the outer kidney. If, on the contrary, it is sprawling, then on the inner kidney.
4. The lower branches should be supplemented with weights so that they straighten in a horizontal position.

Video: how to cut a young apple tree in autumn

By the way! You should not prune an apple tree thoughtlessly, the direction of growth can be changed without the use of garden cutting tools. For this purpose, you can use the tying and the formation of the correct direction.

An old apple tree may not withstand heavy pruning. The procedure is required to be carried out over several years. So, in the first year, you should cut off 1-2 old branches that have not fruited for a long time. Then gradually removing all obsolete shoots, you need to leave the young shoots. This process leads to a gradual rarefaction of the crown, the removal of broken, affected and dried branches.

Video: how to prune an old apple tree in autumn for beginners

columnar apple tree cut off, firstly, to form a certain appearance tree, and, secondly, for abundant fruiting and balanced shoot growth. Thus, the columnar apple tree can be pruned both in spring and autumn.

Basic rules for pruning apple trees by year:

• 1 year - removal of part of the shoots by 2 buds. Thanks to this, the shoots will become stronger and grow stronger in breadth.
• 2 year - stand out horizontal position branches, they are cut by 30 cm. Vertical - cannot be cut.
• Year 3 - a repetition of the previous scheme for pruning an apple tree. In addition, fruiting shoots are eliminated.

It is necessary to cut off young zero shoots that have grown from the trunk. This will serve as a positive incentive for the formation of a powerful central base tree.

How to cover an apple tree for the winter

The last stage of autumn care is the preparation of a fruit-bearing tree for wintering, its shelter for the winter. First of all, you should whitewash all the lower branches and the base of the trunk to the very ground. This procedure is performed due to the fact that the February sun is very bright. As a result, the bark can get burned.

In addition, lime prevents hungry rodents from spoiling the base of the plant during the cold season.

Do not forget about severe frosts. At these moments, the trunk must be protected from freezing.

As for shelter young seedling apple trees, especially prone to freezing, then a frame or support is specially erected around the trunk. Burlap is put on top of the seedling and tied tightly with ropes, but in such a way as not to damage the trunk of the apple tree. It is not recommended to use non-woven materials, under them the plant tends to rot.

When a sufficient amount of snow falls, it should be thrown in a dense snowdrift on top of the shelter. Thus, the plant will be much warmer, and it will successfully endure minus temperature no loss.

Important! Old powerful apple trees require warming only the root system. To do this, in the autumn period, pine spruce branches are applied in a dense layer at the base, which helps to retain heat.

The method of sheltering a columnar apple tree for the winter is fundamentally no different.

The only problem is rodents that can damage the bark. To prevent this, straw is compacted with an additional layer, and a chain-link mesh is placed on top of this dry snowdrift in a circle.

Video: how to cover an apple tree in the fall for the winter

Features of preparing apple trees for winter in various areas: in the Moscow region, Siberia, in the Urals

Russia is a great and vast territory. To grow an apple tree good harvest, on the plot you need to plant the variety that is most suitable for the climate. In the northern regions, it is not possible to achieve high yields from species of southern selection, even if proper care and timely pruning are taken into account.

In the Moscow region, you need to be very careful when preparing an apple tree for winter. The first step is to fertilize with mineral fertilizers, since the tree should be saturated with nutrients.

This is interesting! For the Urals and Siberia, breeders set themselves a separate goal and brought out special varieties of apple trees that are not afraid of the strongest temperature drops.

In Siberia mainly young apple seedlings should be covered with straw or spruce branches, while capturing almost the entire tree. The optimal perimeter of the tree, which should be closed, is 1-1.5 m. It is recommended to cover it with a cloth from above and fix everything with a rope or tape.

In the Urals the ground part and the root system of the apple tree should also be insulated. Peat, straw, manure or sawdust are poured on top. A hill is made from this material to a height of 20-30 cm, lightly tamping the embankment.

Colds come to these areas at the end of autumn, so you need to have time to cover the trees, and then, when it snows, fill up the tree with a large snowdrift. In this case, no frost will be terrible for young apple trees.

Typical mistakes in caring for an apple tree in the fall and preparing for winter

Experienced gardeners, guided by their knowledge and the tips of other people, in most cases do not make mistakes. While novice summer residents, not knowing all the intricacies of caring for apple trees, can often make mistakes.

Important! Properly caring for an apple tree at different ages, you can not only achieve a large harvest, but also grow a healthy and strong tree that can bear fruit for decades.

Thus, competent care for an apple tree in the autumn period allows you to form not only skeletal branches, but also increase immunity from pests and diseases. The main thing is that you need to responsibly carry out a number of measures that will allow you to winter well.

To effectively protect trees in the cold season, it is not enough to confine yourself to a single visit to the garden. Comprehensive measures are needed, including proper care, starting from mid-summer and ending with snow work. Among the main measures necessary to prepare fruit trees for winter are: timely fertilization, competent irrigation policy, treatment, frost and pest protection. At the same time, there are nuances in the preparation not only for different varieties trees, but also for plants of the same species, but of different ages.

Protection from pests when preparing fruit trees for winter

Many pests hibernate under the old bark, in the cracks of the trunk and skeletal branches, so it is necessary to carefully clean them with scrapers or a blunt knife, and collect and burn what is cleaned off. Then whitewash the trunks and forks of skeletal branches with water-based paint (VS, VD-K4 577, EVA-27A) or lime (2 kg per 10 liters of water) or a solution of clay mixed with diesel fuel (a glass of diesel fuel per 10 liters of solution). Such whitewashing, among other things, will still protect the trees from sunburn. When boles and skeletal branches of cherries, apricots, cherries, peaches and plums are whitened, it is advisable to add copper sulfate (3%) to the lime, which will protect the trees from damage by kleasterosporiosis, cytosporosis, verticillosis, stone fruit (peach, cherry, cherry) - manilose. Separate branches or the entire tree (when a very affected bole) must be removed from garden plot. It is impossible to leave wounds larger than 4-5 cm on the stem or branches for the winter. They must be cleaned with a knife and covered with garden pitch or oil paint on vegetable drying oil, or a mixture of clay and fresh mullein in a ratio of 1: 1 and wrapped with burlap or other cloth.

Protection against rodents when preparing fruit trees for winter

To begin with, the stems of each tree should be insulated to prevent frostbite in harsh winter conditions. Experienced gardeners they wrap the trunks with old nylon stockings, use spruce or pine spruce branches as a heater, wrap the stems with roofing felt or roofing material. The height of the impromptu "fur coat" should be about 1 meter.

If winters in your region are especially frosty, then canvas, hay or straw are laid between the roofing material layer and the bark. This creates additional insulation for the trees. On summer cottages located next to the forest, it makes sense to additionally protect the stems with barbed wire, which will prevent hares and other rodents from feasting on the bark of garden trees throughout the winter.

Autumn whitewashing of fruit trees

Good disinfection, in addition, it protects the stems and bases of thick branches from moss and lichens. To avoid the appearance of lichens, you can paint the trunk and lower skeletal branches with a 5% solution of iron sulfate.

Some gardeners do not whitewash the boles, but simply tie them up in the fall to protect them from rodents and burns. Young trees with smooth bark should not be bleached. Otherwise, they will grow worse. Especially dangerous for young plants lime mortars with the addition of sticky substances, especially wood glue and casein, which close the pores on the bark and slow down the growth of boles.
Unproductive and old trees and bushes in November should be uprooted. But this must be done before the soil begins to freeze.

Autumn digging of fruit trees

If the summer and early autumn were not rainy, all trees and shrubs must be watered. This will increase the frost resistance of trees and shrubs. After carrying out all these operations, the soil around fruit trees and shrubs should be dug up. After all, caterpillars, pupae and beetles of many pests of fruit trees and berry bushes overwinter in the upper layer of soil. In the process of digging, some of them fall into the upper layers of the soil, onto its surface and die.

Autumn digging of the soil under the crowns of apple trees is very effective in the fight against codling moth, especially after a dry and hot summer, when most of the caterpillars went to pupate in the soil.

During autumn digging, diseased leaves and fruits, falling into moist soil, quickly decompose. This technique can significantly reduce the supply of primary scab infection, various spots and rot.

After digging under currant and gooseberry bushes, the number of gooseberry moths and sawflies decreases, and the supply of anthracnose and septoria pathogens also decreases.

As you know, dug up soil retains more moisture in the spring when snow melts. During autumn digging, fruit and berry bushes should be fed with phosphate and potash fertilizers.

And of course, you should not forget to strengthen the crowns of fragile trees, berry bushes or tie them up, protecting the branches from breakage under the weight of snow.

Preparing fruit trees for the cold

Increase watering during leaf fall orchard. Trees need water to replenish their strength. If the autumn is rainy, this step can be neglected. And if the weather is dry and warm, provide each tree with plenty of water. The main task is to moisten the soil to a depth of 40 cm. To do this, water each tree abundantly several times with a difference of 2-3 days. Each young tree requires 50-60 liters, mature trees drink up to 200 liters of water. Do not limit yourself to the trunk circle, water the tree to the width of its crown. If you build a shallow ditch around the tree, it is enough to fill it with water 3-4 times and wait until it is completely absorbed.

For young trees, the diameter of the moat will be 70 cm, for adults - up to 2 m. I harden apple and pear trees before winter. This makes it easier for them to tolerate cold temperatures. To harden the tree, remove a 5 cm layer of soil around the trunk. Do this carefully so as not to damage the roots. Store the excavated soil in a dry and cool place. After the first frost, return the soil to its place. By the end of November, mulch the soil around each tree with dry material (sawdust, foliage, spruce branches). Mulch helps the roots retain heat.

We fertilize and feed fruit trees for the winter

By properly fertilizing during the summer and autumn, we also ensure that our fruit plants meet the winter prepared. In the first half of summer, until mid-July, you can use fertilizers (mineral or organic) that contain nitrogen. Now you don’t even need to look for the composition on packages with mineral fertilizers: how much nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are there. They simply write on the packaging - “Spring-summer Kemira” or “Autumn Kemira”. True, I'm a supporter organic farming, therefore, I spend all top dressing in the first half of summer with green fertilizers and manure infusion, and in the second - with ash. In the ashes, as well as in prefabricated mineral fertilizers, phosphorus and potassium are present, which contribute to the growth of roots and the maturation of wood.

In August, you need to inspect fruit trees, especially young ones. At the ends of young branches with strong growth, an apical bud should form. If the growth of the shoot continues, then its top can and should be pinched.

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How to cover fruit trees for the winter?

First of all, it is necessary to protect their trunk circles from freezing (this is especially important for young trees, the root system of which is just being formed), for which they can be covered with peat, spruce branches, sawdust. Young trees need to be protected not only from the cold, but also from hares, who often come to the gardens in winter and gnaw the bark on them, so it is advisable to take care of a good shelter. It is also needed, regardless of age, and such trees as apricots, peaches, cherries, which do not tolerate frosty winters.

To build such a shelter along the periphery of the crown, 3-4 pegs should be driven in, the height of which is equal to the height young tree. Using twine or soft wire, the branches need to be tied a little so that they do not protrude beyond the perimeter indicated by the stakes. wrap around stakes thick paper, roofing felt or film and sprinkle them 4-5 cm with earth so that mice do not damage the bark of the tree. Tie the structure with twine and, with the onset of cold weather, cover it with fallen leaves or snow.

The main goal of autumn care activities orchard- increase the winter hardiness of trees and productivity for the next year. Fertilizing apple trees in autumn is not limited to one application of fertilizers, because over the summer, insects that damage wood take root under the bark, and in winter, mice and hares will attack tree covers, which have nothing to eat in the forest and they get closer to people's homes.

After all the activities, the branches and leaves are burned, and this is an additional fertilizer for the site, which can be poured under the same fruit trees or placed in a compost heap for rotting.

When to start autumn apple tree care activities

When to fertilize apple trees in the fall is not important. As such, there is no exact time for pruning or feeding apple trees. The main thing is to have time to carry out all the work before the onset of cold weather. Apple trees that finish fruiting faster are processed in August, late varieties - in September or October.

Video: How to properly fertilize fruit trees

Watering the near-trunk circle of apple trees

For large trees, it is necessary to ensure soil moisture at least 1 meter deep. This is a big waste of water. It is recommended to combine top dressing of apple trees after harvesting with watering. For this:

• Dig the soil under the tree, focusing on the size of the crown. Make a 50 cm deepening along the edge of the digging so that the water does not spread.

• Pour out at least 200 liters of water- it is better to use a hose and a pump so as not to carry water in buckets. Wait until the liquid is completely absorbed.

• Mix phosphorus potash fertilizers, how to feed apple trees in the fall, and scatter them evenly over the dug up area.

• Pour another 100 liters and mulch the ground, to keep moisture.

Feeding young apple trees in August is a less troublesome task. Their roots have not yet grown so widely - water and fertilizer need less than half. Approximately 100 liters for each tree up to 5 years old.

Processing the bark of fruit trees

In order for the apple tree to feel good in the spring and bear fruit in the fall, during feeding, you need to clean the bark from moss, lichens, and inspect the bark for pests.

Moss is removed from the bark with an iron brush, then the places are treated with copper sulphate. The same is done if wintering pests are found under the bark - they are sprayed with vitriol. If the old bark has been severely damaged by insects, it is better to destroy it along with them. Bare wood is disinfected with vitriol, and then smeared with garden pitch. This mixture protects damaged areas from moisture loss from the inside and external influences. In winter, these are temperature fluctuations and frosts.

Recipe for garden var at home

Required:

• 1 part rosin;

• 1 part beeswax;

• 500 g of linseed oil;

• furnace ash - 1 part.

Procedure:

• Melt rosin and wax, mix.

• Add linseed oil and ash, mix.

If you add 10% zinc oxide to the mixture by volume, you get a frost-resistant putty. It is impossible to replace flaxseed oil with any other.

Garden var is used for putty cuts and stripping on the bark. If the farm has cow dung and clay, then these two ingredients are mixed in equal proportions, water is added. The mixture should be like thick sour cream. She putty the trunk in places of damage to the bark and wrap it with rags for a year. The following year, in the autumn, the tree is inspected and, if necessary, the procedure is repeated.

Whitewashing apple trees

For whitewashing use a solution consisting of lime, wood glue and copper sulfate:

• Dissolve 5 kg of lime, 1 kg of vitriol and 500 g of glue in 20 liters of water.

• Mix well and let sit for a couple of hours.

It is necessary to whitewash the trunks in dry weather so that the solution dries immediately.

If the leaves have completely fallen off, then the branches are sprayed with urea so that the tree does not get scab. It is necessary to dissolve 500 g of urea in a bucket of water. Helps fight fungus Bordeaux liquid 3% concentration: for a bucket of water 300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of slaked lime. You need to spray with a mask and gloves.

Bark insulation and rodent protection

After whitewashing, the apple tree is wrapped with material or thick cardboard. This will protect young trees from freezing and damage by animals. After winding the barrel, the material is fixed with tape or rope. If the barrel is not whitewashed, then the lower part of the winding must be sprinkled with earth and pressed down.

How to fertilize an apple tree in autumn

Autumn top dressing of apple trees in winter consists in planting potash-phosphorus fertilizers in the soil. Nitrogen is not used, as it stimulates the formation of greenery and the tree does not winter well. Young apple trees with such top dressing in the fall can even die in frost.

For 1 square meter about 100 g of superphosphates, 100 g of potash fertilizers for apple trees are applied in autumn. Well-rotted manure is also fine, as it will take time to rot. Nitrogen from manure will not be able to interfere with the wintering of trees.

After harvesting in autumn, apple trees are fed with the contents compost heap if she is in the country. After laying the nutrient mixture under the trees, it is advisable to mulch the place so that the substances do not weather and are not washed out by rain.

When planting apple trees in autumn, fertilizers are applied directly into the hole, a bucket of water is poured into the same place and a seedling is dug in. Mineral fertilizers are mixed with the soil or a layer of soil is made between the fertilizer layer and the roots.

How to feed apple trees in the fall so that they bear fruit if there is no manure: the cheapest way out is green manure. You can cut clover, lupins, nettles, alfalfa in the field or on the site. One thing is sure to grow nearby and you can use it for your own purposes. The green mass is crushed and dug up in the trunk circle. During the winter, plant residues rot and serve as food for the roots.

Soil microorganisms can only work in conditions of high humidity, so before planting green manure, you need to water the area under the tree well

After burning branches and leaves, ash remains, in which there is a record high content of phosphorus, potassium and calcium. Soil bacteria love ash, so applying it under fruit trees will result in an increased yield next season. You can feed the apple tree in the fall with dry ash or a hood.

conclusions

respect for garden trees keeps them healthy and increases the fruiting period. Top dressing in the fall stimulates the formation of future vegetative buds. And vice versa - dry autumn weather, lack of care - reduce the yield long before it appears on the branches.

Hello, dear readers! I am the creator of the "Fertilizers.NET" project. Glad to see each of you on its pages. I hope the information in the article was helpful. Always open for communication - comments, suggestions, what else you want to see on the site, and even criticism, you can write to me on VKontakte, Instagram or Facebook (round icons below). All peace and happiness! 🙂

There is still a lot of work in the garden in autumn. What do gardeners need to take care of so that the trees survive the winter safely?

Garden care in the autumn period consists of a set of works that must be carried out on time and in accordance with all the rules.

Caring for fruit trees October consists in a thorough check of plants, pruning and removal of shoots and tops, as well as whitewashing boles.

In November it is necessary to collect and burn fallen or cut branches and leaves. It is also recommended to dig up the soil around the trees this month. When digging, plants can be fed - add superphosphate (100 g under a tree), potash and nitrogen fertilizers (50 g under a tree).

Pruning fruit trees

Spend autumn in the garden sanitary pruning. It consists in removing all weak and crossing shoots from the trees, as well as broken and dried branches. This must be done because pests or pathogens may well hide on such branches.

Apples, pears, plums and other fruit trees are very convenient to cut in the fall, after harvesting. Trees can usually be pruned before the first frost. In November, it is no longer worth disturbing the plants: it is already cold enough for this.

To do everything right, carefully inspect the trees, make sure that the branches of each grow correctly and do not create obstacles for each other. Anything that interferes must be removed. You can form a tree crown using a pruner (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 26 mm) and a delimber (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 40 mm).

Pruner (left) and lopper (right)

Removing tops on trees

Spinning tops are strong, fattening shoots with big leaves and underdeveloped kidneys. Most often they form on old skeletal branches. Usually tops grow from dormant buds, starting to develop actively. Why are wolves so dangerous? They take away the strength of the tree, thicken its crown, and they never bear fruit.

Tops grow on a young fruit crop after the tree has been damaged. For example, you cut a large branch or it broke on its own. In old fruit trees, fattening shoots may appear after pruning. Also, excessive top dressing with nitrogen fertilizer and abundant watering can provoke the growth of tops.

The red arrows show tops

You can get rid of tops with pruning. Her goal in this case is not only to thin out and lighten the crown of the tree, but also to form new young shoots, direct them along such a trajectory so that they do not thicken the crown. It is necessary to remove the fattening branches inside the crown on the ring. After cutting the tops, the wounds on the tree should be treated with garden pitch.

Do not forget to treat wounds on trees after removing tops

Protecting the bark of fruit trees

Sharp temperature changes during weather changes often lead to the fact that cracks (frost cracks) appear on the bark of fruit trees. These faults are quite deep and cause significant damage to plants. In addition, cracks can occur under the influence of the active sun (sunburn), strong winds or night cold. Also, pests of fruit crops can cause cracks in the bark.

To protect the trees, trunks should be covered with whitewash or a special protective fiber in autumn. This is necessary in order to protect the trunk from direct sunlight. Whitewash can be prepared independently. To do this, dilute 2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of copper sulfate for disinfection and 0.1 kg of wood glue in 10 liters of water for a stronger “adhesion” to the bark.

Whitewashing trees - important element autumn garden care

To protect trees from damage by insects or rodents, it is necessary to use special protective nets that are wrapped around the trunk.

Such nets are used to protect tree trunks from pests.

Autumn top dressing of fruit trees

Autumn top dressing of trees is carried out after harvesting. It is performed to improve the soil, which has been depleted over the season. In autumn, fruit trees need to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, preferably without nitrogen content.

Phosphorus fertilizers. Among phosphate fertilizers, superphosphate and ammophos are most often found on sale. Superphosphate is simple and double. It is more expedient to choose double, since it contains 2 times more phosphorus oxide and less gypsum.

Ammophos- a more concentrated preparation, but for autumn feeding garden, it is not very suitable, because it contains a high dose of nitrogen. This fertilizer is best used in the spring.

potassium preparations. The main potash fertilizers are potassium sulfate and potassium chloride. Both of these drugs contain the same percentage of potassium oxide. Potassium chloride is cheaper, but it contains chlorine, which can depress horticultural crops. True, it has such an effect mainly on shrubs, but trees do not suffer from it.

Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. There is also a very good mixed fertilizer - monopotassium phosphate containing 52% phosphorus and 34% potassium. The advantage of this composition is that it is completely absorbed by plants. However, this fertilizer will also cost more than other phosphorus-potassium supplements. Therefore, you can resort to its use if you need to feed whimsical crops that do not winter very well.

Fertilizers are applied to the near-trunk circles - under the roots of trees. Foliar feeding at this time of the year is useless. Depending on which fertilizer you choose (liquid or dry), the principle of their application depends.

• Liquid fertilizers are applied into special grooves made in the trunk circle around the tree. The more grooves, the better the effect.
• To apply dry fertilizers, you first need to remove the top layer of soil (1-2 cm) in the near-stem circle, evenly distribute fertilizers and return the earth back.

In autumn, it is best to use the second feeding option, since in this way fertilizers will be absorbed by plants gradually, coming to the roots along with melted snow. Liquid formulations are more effective in spring and summer.

After harvesting, be sure to carry out the last dressing of the garden

As dry fertilizer, you can apply superphosphate at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq.m of the trunk circle and potash fertilizers at the rate of 50 g per 1 sq.m. After fertilizing, the soil in the near-trunk circle should be covered with a layer of mowed grass - it will act as mulch.

Caring for fruit trees in the fall is not so difficult. The main thing is to know what time certain events are held, and do everything according to this schedule.

Autumn is the period on which the quality and quantity of the harvest for the next year directly depends.

If you devote enough time to caring for fruit trees, then do not hesitate, in the summer you will see the result of your work and knowledge.

Therefore, do not be lazy and postpone everything for later.

It is in the fall that it is necessary to protect the garden from diseases and pests, it is enough to fertilize, moisten and dig the soil, and also give Special attention preparation for winter.

We will talk about this in more detail.

First of all, in the fall you need to take care of the protection of fruit trees. It is better to start all activities when the leaves fall. But don't push too hard.

The timing of preparation depends on the climate of the area where the garden is planted - in the northern regions, this event can begin at the end of September, and in the south - in October. Since, late preparations for winter in the north can not only not improve the condition of the garden, but even destroy it.

Wood whitewash

Many people believe that whitewashing trees is a protection against harmful insects that have laid their larvae in the bark for the winter, as well as some fungal diseases. Of course, this is true, but not only. Back in 1887, it was noticed that trees whitewashed with lime solution tolerated frosts better than their untreated neighbors in the area.

Gardeners still use this experience. What is the secret? Such a coating serves as a protective layer against large temperature fluctuations in winter, when the sun is hot during the day, and frost begins to freeze at night. Untreated trees are covered with cracks, which serve as an excellent habitat for various pathogens. But here you need to know some nuances.

For example, when whitewashing young trees, lime in solution can be replaced with chalk. Solution should be thick and saturated, not only the trunk, but also the skeletal branches should be covered. Exists several options for preparing the solution.

First- the cheapest and easiest solution home cooking. For him, you should take 2 kg of lime + 400 g of copper sulfate. Dissolve these components in 10 liters of water with the addition of a paste, for viscosity. You can also add 1 kg of clay and cow dung to this composition.

For young trees, the paste cannot be used, their bark will not be able to breathe through the adhesive barrier. For seedlings, it is better to prepare a mixture of lime (3 kg), clay (1.5 kg) and mullein (1 kg), which are dissolved in water until sour cream is thick.

Second option- This is a store-bought mixture that also consists of clay and lime. However, this whitewash is very often washed off by spring, therefore, it requires re-treatment of the entire garden. Adding carbolic acid to any solution will also protect trees from damage by rodents and hares.

Protecting the garden from insects

The winter garden is a wintering place for various insects that lay their larvae in the bark, fallen leaves, in the nests of the tree crown.

For example, a small nest in the form of a shield on the surface of branches is a clutch of apple moths, which contains up to 80 eggs, small ring-shaped beads on a branch are offspring ringed silkworm, and dry leaves glued to the branches with cobwebs can be an excellent refuge for young caterpillars of hawthorn and goldentail.

This is just a small list of garden pests, how can we protect it?

First of all it is necessary to remove the entire area from excess debris and fallen leaves. Remove dead bark from trees with iron brushes. It is worth making a deep (15–20 cm) digging of the soil in order to destroy the wintering grounds of some caterpillars.

Carefully inspect fruit trees, for some areas you may even need a magnifying glass. Trunks clean from trapping belts, in which a large number of cocoons of codling moths are concentrated. Spray all plantings with 3 or 5% urea solution. Protecting trees from pests such as aphids, lungwort, silkworms, leafworm helps spraying drugs Bulldock, Fury, Agravertini.

Protects against diseases such as coccomycosis and other spotting spraying with preparations containing copper: iron vitriol, Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride or fungicide preparations - Kuproksat, Topsin, Horus. To get rid of scab and fruit rot will help processing "Impact", "Strobi" or "Skor". All wounds, cracks and hollows on the tree must be treated with a 5% solution of iron sulfate and covered with cement.

Protecting the garden from rodents

Hares and small rodents cause very great damage to the garden, especially young seedlings. To protect trees from them, it is necessary wrap the trunk old rags or burlap with roofing felt. Many gardeners even use women's nylon tights for this purpose. They are good for protecting branches.

Near the base, protection must be well dug in with earth so that mice do not make their way. The branches of spruce or pine are perfect, they are tied around the trunk and cover the near-stem circle. The smell of coriander sprigs scattered on the ground, near the tree, also repels mice well.

Wrapping up the garden will also save the trees from winter frosts. And if you also whiten the bark (as discussed above in the article), then your garden will not be afraid of sunburn from winter rays.

You should be aware that if you use roofing felt as an insulating material, then between it and the bark of the tree there must be a layer of burlap or rags. Otherwise, the tree will dry up.

tree pruning

Pruning of fruit trees should begin after the leaves have been shed. Dates vary depending on the region of planting the garden. In the southern regions, you can leave this event for October, and in the northern regions you can’t delay it, so pruning is carried out at the end of September or, even better, postponed until March.

Otherwise, the tree will not have time to prepare for winter due to increased sap flow. With late pruning, at the site of the wound, the wood dries and freezes, which often leads to the death of the tree.

So, let's get down to the features of this procedure. First of all dry and diseased branches are removed, followed by those that create excessive density, grow towards the trunk, at the wrong angle, intertwine with each other.

Trees that have not been pruned for many years must be thinned out in stages, over several years, starting with the largest branches and ending with small, improperly growing ones. If the tree is pruned too hard, it may no longer bear fruit or even die.

Young seedlings are not pruned in autumn. Thinning the crown of young trees is necessary annually, this lays their shape and proper growth. For old trees, the event is held every 2-3 years to improve air circulation and light between the branches, as well as to get a larger and better harvest.

All wounds on the tree after the removed branches must be treated with garden pitch and covered with drying oil or paint. All sawn and trimmed branches must be burned, as spores can be stored on them. various diseases and pests.

Feeding garden trees

Autumn top dressing plays a more important role than spring or summer. Since it is in the fall that the strength of the tree is laid before the upcoming fruiting, its immunity is strengthened and resistance to frost increases. Root top dressing is applied along with the main fertilizer during the autumn digging of the soil, in the region of the near-stem circle, no later than October.

For young trees, whose age has not reached 8 years, about 30 kg of humus will be required, and for adults - about 50 kg. In autumn, elements such as potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen, calcium, iron and magnesium are most important.

But feeding with manganese, boron, copper and cobalt is best done in reduced quantities. The ideal option would be to make sure which elements the soil lacks. But this is not always possible and convenient, so there are basic rules that should be followed.

For example, for feeding apple and pear trees it is necessary to add 300 g of superphosphate and 200 g of potassium sulfate to the soil with organic fertilizer. These elements are better absorbed in liquid form by watering the near-stem circle.

For cherry and plum trees, top dressing is prepared from 3 tbsp. superphosphate and 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate dissolved in 10 liters of water. For sufficient nutrition of one tree, about 4 buckets of such a liquid are needed. For sandy and sandy soils, large quantity top dressing elements than for clay and loamy - heavier.

This is due to the fact that useful nutrients are more intensively washed out from light soils by rainfall and during irrigation. From the moment fruiting begins, the garden needs more intensive nutrition in the fall. It is better to postpone fertilizing with nitrogen until spring, since in autumn this element enhances sap flow, which adversely affects the wintering of the tree.

Watering garden trees

autumn watering allowed only in regions with low rainfall. If the tree was watered abundantly in summer and autumn, and later it was also covered with earth, this leads to warming up, and then cracking of the trunk bark, in places where moisture accumulates.

It should not be forgotten that just as excessive watering is dangerous, a lack of moisture in the soil before winter is also dangerous. If the tree experiences an urgent need for additional moisture, then the hardening process will be much more difficult, and the plant will not withstand frost adequately.

Also, plentiful summer watering leads to increased growth of shoots, which, growing up to 2 m, do not have time to stiffen by winter and die from frost. Sometimes, in places of excess moisture, sowing of annual grasses is allowed, and weed control stops, which leads to the normalization of soil moisture. If the humidity of the garden planting region is normal, then the last watering is required no later than October.

Hilling the base of trees with earth is allowed only in frost-prone and little-snow areas, since, in combination with watering, this event can damage the tree more than protect it.

Besides, the last moisture-charging autumn watering helps to strengthen the root system, eliminates the possibility of sunburn of the bark of the trunk and branches, and also provides a more successful growing season, replacing the first spring watering. Thanks to it, the root system of the tree becomes more powerful, since in winter the tree extracts moisture from a depth of 0.5–2 m from the soil surface.

We were not mistaken, in winter the trees also need moisture. When scheduling autumn watering, one should also take into account the depth of occurrence ground water Location on. Since during water-charging irrigation it is necessary to soak the soil to a depth greater than the depth of the tree's root system.

However, unacceptable contact between groundwater and irrigation water. The average rate for water-charging irrigation is about 10–16 buckets of water per 1 sq.m. soil.

If your garden has soil with shallow pebble deposits, as well as clay layers, then the last abundant watering is required only in especially dry autumn years, and usually no more than four buckets per 1 sq.m.

Digging a tree

Soil cultivation in the fall is extremely important, and it cannot be replaced by spring, as inexperienced gardeners often think. As a result of loosening, the soil is enriched with oxygen, the larvae and eggs of various pests that lay down for the winter die, the roots and seeds of weeds decompose.

It is not recommended to break large clods of earth when digging, otherwise it will lead to freezing and weathering of the soil on the site. Also, you should not do late digging of a site with snow. This will lead to slow warming up in the spring.

It is necessary to complete all loosening and digging activities no later than the end of October. It must be remembered that the young annual seedlings digging should not be carried out to a great depth, so as not to damage the roots.

And with systematic autumn loosening, there is evidence that in an apple tree, the bulk of the roots are located on a seed rootstock within a radius of 20–60 cm, in a plum tree on a clone rootstock, and in a cherry tree, on a horizon of 20–40 cm. Around the trunk of sea buckthorn, digging is carried out by careful loosening with a rake to a depth of about 7 cm, while trying not to touch the roots.

If you picked up a shovel, then it must be placed with an edge towards the trunk of a fruit tree. If the garden has not been subjected to systematic loosening, then the root system is pulled to the surface, which creates a risk of damage and freezing in winter.

This can lead to the fact that the tree will be without a significant mechanism for obtaining nutrition and moisture, and the open wound surfaces of the roots will become a zone of penetration of all kinds of infections and diseases. You should also consider the composition of the soil in your garden. Light, loose, cultivated soil needs only loosening, and heavy, clay soil requires obligatory deep digging.

fallen leaves

Exists 2 options for dealing with fallen leaves in the garden. Some summer residents believe that nothing needs to be done with it, because in wild nature no one cleans the leaves, they rot by a natural process and serve excellent fertilizer further.

Others believe that fallen leaves are a huge risk of infection with various diseases and pests, since it is there that insect larvae and eggs hibernate and disease spores can remain, so it must all be removed and burned. Both of them are right.

Therefore, before deciding what to do with fallen leaves, you need to pay attention to whether your site has been infected with any diseases and pests. Even if so, then by collecting the foliage in bags, you will not let it cake, and all pathogenic microbes will die from frost. In the spring, this foliage should be folded into a pile for rotting.

This process can be accelerated by periodic shoveling and watering with microorganisms that contribute to the formation of humus. If your trees are absolutely healthy, then the collected foliage can serve as an excellent shelter from the cold of the root system of trees, and after that, a wonderful top dressing of the soil. In the presence of a large number of pests and diseases, it is better not to use the fallen leaves, but to collect them in a heap and burn them.

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The first thing the gardener should take care of is to create a strong skeleton (skeleton) of the crown for each tree, to achieve maximum foliage of the fruit tree and keep it active throughout the growing season, to protect the wood (stem, skeletal and overgrowing branches) from mechanical damage, pests and diseases, as well as creating favorable conditions for the growth and development of the root system.

In stone fruits, the root system lies close to the surface. Therefore, the soil under them is cultivated somewhat finer. Forks and a shovel should be placed under the crown sideways to the trunk.

It is advisable to throw soil to the trunk before winter, as if to pile up a tree. Careful soil care in the near-trunk circles contributes to the accumulation of moisture, as well as the destruction of weeds and wintering garden pests.

In early spring, the soil is loosened by 8-10 cm to preserve the moisture accumulated in the autumn-winter period. Loosening should be carried out as early as possible so as not to dry out the soil and prevent the formation of a crust on its surface. At the same time, it is necessary to unravel the stem of the fruit tree.

Fertilizer for a young garden

Fertilizers contribute rapid development fruit trees, increase winter hardiness and accelerate their entry into fruiting season. It is necessary to introduce into the soil, mainly nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

• Once every 2-3 years, add humus at the rate of up to 4 kg.
• Annually - mineral fertilizers at the rate of 5-6 g of the active substance: ammonium nitrate 15-20 g, superphosphate - up to 40 g and potassium salt - 12-15 g.

If organic and mineral are added at the same time, then the rate is reduced by half. organic fertilizers it is best to make in the fall, closing them up for digging.

From mineral fertilizers autumn contribute phosphorus and potash. nitrogen fertilizers sprinkled in the spring during digging or loosening the earth.

Mulching the soil retains moisture. In dry conditions, mulching is very effective. In the spring, after the first processing (loosening) of the soil, trunk circle covered with humus, old leaves, small straw, sawdust 5-6 cm thick.

In addition to retaining moisture, mulching prevents soil structure from breaking down and significantly reduces soil maintenance labor costs by eliminating the need for frequent loosening and weeding.

In addition, mulching protects the soil from freezing and thus contributes to a better preservation of the root system of young fruit trees from freezing in harsh and snowless winters.

For young gardens, an obligatory agricultural method is watering young fruit trees. When irrigating, for more efficient use of the land, it is possible to sow some agricultural crops in the aisles of the garden, such as potatoes, vegetables, phacelia, strawberries. You can not sow corn, sunflower, sorghum, cereals.

Inter-row crops should be grown before the trees begin to bear fruit, because in a fruit-bearing garden, inter-row crops can be harmful to them.

Wherever we come, in which village you look, each owner has his own garden, even if it consists of one tree. After planting a fruit tree, it requires the same care as any plant. Every year we save them from diseases, pests, frosts, and also form crowns for greater productivity. All this is correct, only there is one more way to help fruit trees develop and bear fruit. We dig in fruit trees in the fall correctly.

The roots of the tree go much deeper than any other plant. This is an obvious fact. In this case, it is possible to think that the tree nutrients through the root system independently from the depths of the earth. However, the main part of the roots is located near the trunk circles. Therefore, near the stems, the earth is kept in a loose state.

Rules for digging and keeping trees

1. The soil around the trees should be loose. See the correct formation of the near-barrel roller.
2. Remove weeds.
3. Cleaning fallen leaves in the fall and its in special places. Leaves with signs of disease are destroyed by burning in barrels, buckets.
4. In autumn (when the crop is harvested), the soil is dug up to a depth of 18-20 cm under apple and pear trees. Near boles no deeper than 5 cm. Roots up to 8 mm thick are easily restored.
5. In August, the soil is not dug up and loosened. This month is the ripening and preparation of shoots for winter.
6. Watering in dry weather.
7. Regular feeding.
8. In spring, the soil near the trees also needs to be loosened. Use a fork to loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm.

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