Formation of appearance, pruning, pinching, pinching, tying. Pinching and pinching
Pinching (pinching) of growing shoots in the crown is a very important technique. It is carried out to help the tree acquire the desired shape. The purpose of pinching is to delay the growth of individual strongly growing shoots (future branches), competitors. Pinching also allows you to achieve subordination of all branches, to prevent the appearance of growth in unwanted places.
Tweezers remove the top of a growing shoot with two or three underdeveloped leaves. This leads to a temporary (for 2-3 weeks) or complete stop of shoot growth.
Pinch with hands, secateurs, knife. This operation should be carried out before the lignification of the shoots: in middle lane Russia - from June 1 to June 20, in the south - from May 6 to June 15. Pinch out shoots that have reached a length of 15 cm, above the third true leaf. Short shoots and shoots of the continuation of the main branches do not need to be pinched.
If, after the first pinching, a shoot sprouts from the bud closest to the place of its application, it is pinched over the second true leaf. If a shoot appears on this shoot from the upper bud, it is also pinched over the second true leaf. Thus, pinching can be one-, two- and three-fold. If after the first pinching all the buds sprout, the shoot is cut off above the lower branch.
Pinching regulates the growth of branches and overgrowing branches. Two- and three-time pinching of a strong shoot in summer period(the first with a shoot length of 15-20 cm, and repeated over the second or third leaf of a new growth) turn the shoot into an overgrowing fruit branch. Shoots growing on the fruits are pinched over the 4-5th true leaf.
On each young tree since spring, shoots-competitors appear at the shoots of the continuation of the conductor and skeletal branches, taking away the juices from the main shoot. They are broken out or pinched to suppress growth. The operation is performed when the shoots grow 10 cm in length. If a new shoot forms below the pinching point in the same season, it is also pinched over the second or third true leaf.
Pinch tops
In addition to competitors, top and other unnecessary shoots are pinched. In the spring of next year, pinched branches are cut out or left if they do not thicken the crown. It happens that at the end of summer in a young garden, the shoots of a certain variety did not finish growing in a timely manner, which can lead to a decrease in winter hardiness. Pinching the top stops growth, and the process of lignification (ripening) of the entire one-year shoot begins.
Pinching is especially important when growing planting material fruit crops. It is used at the end of summer on annuals for better maturation of plants. When growing two-year-olds, overgrown branches with the help of a pinch are turned into thickening shoots that increase the power of the stem and skeletal branches. Pinching weakens the competitor shoot and regulates the evenness of skeletal branches.
Pinching (pinching) is called breaking off (pinching with nails) the grassy top of a growing shoot. After this operation, the remaining part of the shoot quickly becomes woody, noticeably thickens, the leaves on it become darker in color and the buds in the axils of the leaves increase in size. If pinching is done early, long before the end of the growing season, then 7-10 days after it, a rosette of new leaves and even strong shoots develop from 1-2 upper buds.
They make a pinch for a different purpose.
Pinching of a competitor shoot, that is, a shoot growing from an underlying bud adjacent to the continuation of the central conductor and developing usually as strongly as the continuation shoot itself (and sometimes stronger), almost always at a very sharp angle. In the future, if the competitor is allowed to develop freely, it forms a fork with a conductor, easily broken under the weight of even a small crop. Pinching competitors should be in early period, shortly after the shoots reach 7-10 centimeters. If the conductor is weak (at this time its strength of growth is already revealed), it can be replaced: it can be broken out and the strongest of the underlying shoots left in its place, tied to a spike to give it a vertical position. Only after that, the next underlying shoot is pinched so that it does not compete in developmental strength with the new conductor. If new shoots begin to develop on a competitor, they are pinched again shortly after the start of growth or the competitor is completely removed (cut out, broken out). This can be done in the spring of next year. It is undesirable to remove competitors at the first pinching (in the early period), since the underlying lateral plants, trying to take the place of a competitor, begin to grow strongly at a very sharp angle (this is especially often observed in varieties with a pyramidal type of growth). By the time of the second pinching, the angle of departure of the lateral branches is fixed, since their bases have time to sufficiently lignify.
The same is done with top and other vigorous shoots that appear on the inside of the branches; so that later they do not shade the crown, they are pinched in the early period, and then removed.
The transformation of skeletal-type shoots into overgrown branches. On young trees of varieties with good branching, many strong annual ramifications form, most of which must be cut or severely shortened next spring to prevent thickening of the crown. By pinching, you can already weaken the strong-growing extra shoots in advance and encourage them to lay fruit buds.
The timing of pinching depends on the strength of development, the condition of the shoot, the characteristics of the variety and climatic conditions.
They begin it when the shoots reach a length of 15-18 centimeters. Pinch only those shoots that by this time have not finished growing. This can be judged by the state of the top of the shoot.
Shoots that have completed and are ending growth by this time (collets, spears, fruit twigs) should not be pinched. If, after pinching, new shoots (2nd growth) grow from the axillary buds, then proceed as follows. In the case of the formation of only one strong shoot, pinch it when it reaches 7-10 centimeters above the second or third leaf; if two or more shoots grow from one sinus, then the pinched (primary) shoot is cut off above the lowest strong lateral shoot of the 2nd growth (thus removing the rest), and it is pinched, only the very top (about 2 -5 sheet),
In the middle zone, this ends the summer pinching operations for this purpose. In the south, if 3rd growth shoots grow back, another pinching may be required, in which they are removed above their lowest leaf shortly after regrowth begins.
Regulation of the strength of the development of the conductor and skeletal ramifications. Most often, it becomes necessary to maintain the uniform development of annual lateral shoots throughout the conductor, in order to subsequently select new skeletal branches from them. With natural growth, especially in varieties with a drooping type of growth (Streifling, Pepin saffron, Pepinka Lithuanian and others), the conductor and one or two upper side shoots grow stronger. Of these, as a rule, a competitor shoot cannot be left as a skeletal branch, as well as the lower ones, which develop poorly, and few shoots remain for the selection of skeletal branches. Therefore, the guide and upper shoots must be greatly shortened when pruning next spring so that the underlying ones do not lag behind. For this reason, the selection of new skeletal branches is difficult and formation is delayed.
Pinching can correct the situation already in the current year, taking advantage of the fact that it temporarily stops the growth of shoots and weakens their development, which makes it possible for the rest of the shoots to catch up with the pinched ones.
To achieve uniform development of many strong lateral branches, pinch out the most strongly growing upper shoots that have reached a length of 30-40 centimeters. The competitor, as already described above, must be suppressed by pinching earlier and by this time can be cut out. When the underlying shoots grow to the height at which the strongest shoot was pinched, their grassy tops are also plucked. This is done sequentially with all shoots.
In the case of germination on pinched shoots of several shoots of the 2nd growth, only one of them, the most conveniently located, is allowed to grow freely, the rest are removed.
If the bulk of the shoots develop poorly, and the conductor grows excessively strongly, pinch it when it becomes about one and a half to two times longer than the upper branches. If the conductor lags far behind the lateral branches (breakage, damage), it is cut off and replaced by the strongest of the underlying lateral branches, which is tied to the spike, and all the rest side shoots, equal to him in strength, are pinched to give him an advantage in height.
Everything that is said here about the conductor and lateral branches applies to lateral skeletal branches: they also have their own continuation shoots and lateral branches, the developmental force of which must be regulated in order to maintain subordination.
Pinching is also used to speed up the end of growth and maturation of wood on young trees in order to better prepare them for wintering. In this case, it is done later, in a period close to the normal end of growth: in the middle zone at the end of July - mid-August, in the south at the beginning - mid-September.
Pinching too early in this case will cause strong secondary growth and may weaken the winter hardiness of the tree.
They pinch only the tops of the shoots that continue to grow, regardless of the strength of their development and location.
It is possible to regulate the growth force of shoots (branches, branches) by changing the direction of growth. The closer to vertical position the shoot (branch, branch) is located, the stronger it develops.
Therefore, if it is necessary to strengthen it, it is given a more vertical direction by pulling it up and tying it to the conductor; and vice versa, if it is necessary to weaken the shoot (branch, branch), it is given a more horizontal direction, pulling it and tying it to neighboring branches or pegs driven into the ground, or using spacers (in the early stages of the development of the shoot, until its base began to grow woody, with a length of 5-10 centimeters).
Relatively recently, it has been found that in order to correct the angles of shoot departure, lubrication of their bases with heteroauxin paste at a concentration of 0.01-0.05 percent, prepared on lanolin, can be used. Instead of lanolin (according to B. Lysenko), you can cook pasta on boron vaseline. She is smeared inside shoots when they reach a length of 3-5 centimeters, but have not yet begun to lignify. It is important that the paste is applied on the base of the stem, and not on the petioles of the leaves, which are often pressed against the stem at that time.
By applying pinching and other summer operations (pulling up branches, spacers, etc.), you can almost get rid of spring pruning fruit trees.
Pinching or pinching sprouts means pinching the grassy top of a growing shoot. After such a procedure, the rest of the shoot begins to quickly stiffen and thicken, the leaves darken, and the hidden buds swell. If you pinch the plant as early as possible, then in a week strong new shoots and leaves will begin to appear on the two upper buds.
For what purpose is this being done?
Tweezing is a kind of stimulation of plants, thanks to which you can get a larger and better harvest.
This is achieved in the following way:
- Transformation of skeletal branches into overgrowing branches. For example, when a large number of annual, but already quite strong branches begin to appear on recently planted trees, already next spring almost all of them need to be greatly shortened or cut out altogether in order to prevent the formation of an overly dense crown. Based on this, you can give a logical answer to why they pinch fruit plants: this achieves an early weakening of excess shoots and the laying of valuable fruit buds;
- Accelerate the maturation of wood and the end of the growth of young plantings that have to survive cold winter. There are no clear rules on how to pinch certain plants, the main thing is to make tweezing at a time close to the natural end of growth, that is, at the end of July-mid-September, depending on the climatic zone. It is not necessary to slow down the plant too early, otherwise the effect will be completely opposite: it will begin secondary active growth and, most likely, will not be able to fully overwinter. In this situation, absolutely all growing tops are pinched, not paying attention to their location and level of development;
- Adjust the strength of the development and growth of the conductor and all skeletal formations of the tree. This makes it possible to achieve and maintain the normal development of annual lateral ramifications, so that later from them new ramifications of the skeletal type can be selected. This procedure is especially relevant with the correct formation of tree varieties with a drooping crown.
Experienced gardeners insist that it is important to pinch fruit plants correctly and in a timely manner. Such procedures, supplemented by the installation of spacers and pulling up branches, may well replace the tedious spring pruning of the entire garden.
Stimulation of indoor plants
To form a beautiful crown, it is important to know how to pinch correctly. houseplants. The tops are subject to tweezing, and it is aimed at a significant subsequent active branching and awakening of the lateral buds. Indoor flowering and evergreen plantings can be pinched all year round, but this is best done during their intensive growth. Again, for different varieties pinching has its own meaning.
For example, if you correctly pinch off the flowering branches of fuchsia, then you can delay the appearance and opening of inflorescences, while for everyone else the same procedure will become powerful incentive for the formation of side shoots and their subsequent flowering.
This is exactly what can be said about indoor lemon. When the length of its lateral branches reaches 20-25 cm, they should be pinched, giving the bush standard form. Initially, on the main sprout, I remove all the sidewalls, creating a full-fledged trunk, and then they pinch the top itself.
As a result, the remaining strong shoots begin to actively grow and develop, forming a lush fruit-bearing crown. Now you understand how and why to pinch indoor plants, the main thing is to take into account the subtleties of the growth of each individual species.
Pinch garden plantings
It does not hurt for a novice gardener to find out which plants and when to pinch. In most cases, cucumbers and tomatoes are subjected to this procedure. In the case of the latter, adult plants are plucked 30-40 days before the expected end of the harvest, and all growth points, buds and even a new ovary are subject to shortening. All this is necessary so that the last full-fledged tomatoes can ripen well.
What does concept mean "pinch the plant" fans of tall and hybrid varieties tomatoes that can grow literally indefinitely.
The last time their top is pinched one month before the onset of autumn frosts. Above the last ovary, the growth point is removed, and all possible subsequent inflorescences are eliminated.
Now about why you need to pinch cucumbers, especially those that are considered self-pollinating. The fact is that their main stem is the carrier of male flowers, which will not give any ovary. Female inflorescences are found only on lateral shoots, which explains the need to activate their appearance and development.
|| Sowing seeds in protected ground || Sowing seeds in open ground || Seedlings || Lawn Care || Lawn from seeds || Paving || First steps in pruning || Pinching and pinching || Cuttings || Reproduction by layering || Root layers || Berry crops || Miniature fruit trees || Shrubs || Herbaceous perennials || Bulbs, rhizomes, corms, tubers || Curly and creepy
Pinching and pinching are simple, but necessary work in the garden. It is only important to know which plants need it and when.
Dahlias require regular grooming. 3-4 weeks after planting, they need to be carefully pinched, removing the main shoots. Over time, withering flowers should be cut.
You may have been doing this work without knowing it. It consists in removing, often simply by pinching off with your fingers, the buds of a new growth. This allows the plant to focus on producing fewer flowers or fruits, but more beautiful or larger. New buds are laid in the axil of the leaf (the place where the leaf cutting is attached to the stem). Leaves and flowers can develop from them, and later, probably, fruits.
growth control. In many plants, the development of buds located down the stem is inhibited by the main stem growth point. Therefore, gardeners pinch the top of the stem with a growing point to allow the lateral buds to grow; the plant in this case becomes more magnificent. Such a procedure does not stop the growth of the apex at all - after a while it resumes. Not all plants in the garden need to be pinched; it all depends on your goals. If you are preparing flowers for a show, you will need to pinch or pinch the plants. Faded heads are often removed due to their untidy appearance, but there may be other reasons.
Many early flowering herbaceous perennials can be made to bloom a second time by cutting them. Other plants manage to extend the flowering period by regularly removing old, dead flowers. Under natural conditions, plants flower to attract pollinators and produce seeds for the survival and spread of the species. But the development of seeds takes a lot of effort. So that it does not affect flowering in the next season, it is better to prevent it in plants using bulbs, corms, rhizomes or tubers for vegetative propagation. Plants will consistently bloom every year if they are not allowed to form seeds. They will even try to produce more flowers, as if hoping to eventually get seeds. Some plants easily produce seeds that self-sow throughout the area. You don't have to allow it if you don't want them to overrun everything.
How it's done. In some plants, for example, heathers, lavender, a number of herbs, flowers are formed on long, elongated shoots. Cut them off so as not to weaken the plant and so that the elongated stems that are bare at the base do not spoil the appearance of the plant. Garden shears and single-handled shears are useful for shearing heathers and related plants and for removing faded flowers from a number of large herbaceous perennials. In flowers like pansies, old flowers are most conveniently picked large and index fingers. Scissors are good for stronger stems, secateurs are good for woody plants. When removing flowers from bushes, cut the branch back to the previous bud, usually at the leaf axil. If the side shoot is ready to grow, cut back to it.
Carnations. Flowers are cut off from garden carnations to prolong flowering; greenhouse, constantly flowering (for sale) varieties require more attention. Carnations with several flowering shoots do not pinch, but pinch. However, varieties with single flowers and early flowering ones do not pinch, they are stepchildren! Carnations with several shoots are formed by pinching the first small pair of leaves two to three weeks after planting. This stimulates the growth of side stems, but slows down flowering. Carnation stems are articular. Buds in two or three nodes at the base of the stems are removed from carnations with single branches. Others, higher up the stem, are left with buds. Having found the point of growth (the main flower bud), you must remove the six lying below. Cut off the main stem with the flower above the node with the bud. After such pinching, the remaining buds will develop into healthy side shoots and will bloom.
Chrysanthemums. Annual pinching of the upper kidney is beneficial, they grow into lush bushes, serving as a decoration for any flower bed. They are often cut for bouquets; removing inflorescences, you will extend the period of their flowering. For winter-hardy perennials, it is enough to remove faded inflorescences. Delicate chrysanthemums are distinguished by the type of flowers, size and season. Only large and medium-flowered varieties stepchild. However, pinch the growth point of all chrysanthemums that have reached a height of 15 cm to stimulate the growth of side shoots. Then you remove one or two side shoots from each stem daily until you have the number of shoots you need - usually about six for flower beds and bouquets, but two or three for exhibition specimens.
The growing point is then removed again, as this bud is larger and blooms earlier than the side ones. Even if this flower bud has not formed in early summer, the growth point is still pinched, otherwise the growth of lateral buds will slow down. The remaining stems now produce their own side shoots with buds. They are removed as they grow, leaving one inflorescence on each stem. Other side shoots growing on the flowering stem are also pinched off. Remove them every one to two days. If in chrysanthemums with non-removed buds, which are going to form side shoots, the bud at the point of growth outstrips the surrounding buds in growth, it should be pinched off.
pasynkovanie 
The side shoot of the chrysanthemum has a growth point and other buds below. Remove the lower buds to get one good flower.
Dahlias. Pinch the top bud a month after planting in a flower bed, when strong shoots appear. If you are preparing them for a show, limit the number of side shoots. Dahlias are distinguished by the shape and size of the flowers. Leave "giants" (over 25 cm) 2-3 stems, large (20-25 cm) - 3-4 stems, medium (15-20 cm) - up to 5-7 stems, small (10-15 cm) - up to 8-10 and "miniature" (less than 10 cm) - up to 10-12 stems. Also, when growing pom-pom dahlias, pinch off side shoots as soon as they produce two leaves. This will produce a mass of 5 cm flowers. When removing faded flowers, cut them back to the emerging lateral shoot. This will prevent the plant from becoming long, thin, with a hanging top.
Roses. Some roses will form two or three buds at the point of pruning, you only need to leave one of them. If you leave everything, they will give weak stems. Preparing for the exhibition hybrid tea roses, inspect the stems and remove excess flowers that may have grown on a single stem. Cut off all the flowers except one. When removing faded roses, cut back to the first five-leaf leaf below the flower. When cutting faded floribunda roses, make sure you remove the entire "bundle" of flowers down to the first five-leafed leaf on the main stem. Since the removal of the growth point from the re blooming roses stimulates new growth, spend it in early autumn. Otherwise, tender young shoots will be killed by early frosts. Buds below old flowers are best left dormant so they can grow next spring.
Sweet pea. It must be pinched off as soon as two or three true leaves appear, as the first shoot usually does not bear flowers, although it stretches up to 1 meter. After pinching, the plant will produce two shoots from the base, both of which will bloom.
| Plants to be pinched. Herbaceous perennials with a single flowering until late summer: gravel (Geum), lungwort (Pulmonaria), delphinium and geranium (Geranium). Sweet pea. Garden carnations. Plants that form bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. Plants in flowerbeds: dahlias, African marigolds, nemesia, pelargonium (Pelargonia), pansies. Repeat flowering roses. Self-seeding plants: mantle (Achemilla), ornamental bows (Allium), watersheds (Aquilegia). |
| Plants that do not pinch. Plants with beautiful dried flower heads; seeds or fruits grown for decoration: moonflower, hydrangea, poppy. Most of the flowers in the flower beds. Bushes that bloom once a year: lilac, viburnum, fragrant mock orange. Plants sensitive to cold in cold gardens where old flower heads protect new buds: Hydrangea. Fruits and fruits intended for food, decoration or planting: pyracantha (Pyracantha), quince (edible and decorative varieties), cotoneaster, wild roses with decorative fruits. | © 2000 - 2005 Oleg V. website™
To pinch a petunia correctly, you should use only clean tools. This avoids injury to the sprouts. It is allowed to repeat the manipulation after a month. This is possible provided the appearance of strong side branches. Pinching is done for the tops of the plant. In order for large buds to form on new stepchildren, suitable fertilizers are needed. It is necessary to water the culture well and remove dried flowers in a timely manner.
What is pinching for?
Pinching the top of a plant shoot with your nails is called tweezing. This procedure leads to the fact that the part of the stem that remains becomes stiff. Becomes fat. The leaves are saturated with color. The sinuses of the kidneys are enlarged.
This is done to obtain new sustainable shoots and give the plant beautiful view. Pinch should be done during the growing season.
It is advisable to adhere to the rules for pinching petunias. This will make it bushy. Abundant buds will keep on the flower for a long time.
Basic Rules
First of all, it is imperative to monitor the growth of seedlings from the moment they are planted. Pinching flower seedlings is not needed, it is produced on young shoots after the appearance of 6 or 7 leaves. When the shoots become a little stronger, the top is cut off. Two paired sheets are left in front of it - this will be the new point. It will branch out and grow new stems.
The specified period is considered the best for pinching. You can't miss it. Otherwise, the petunia will begin to stretch upwards, and the shoots from the sides will not be branched. The round shape of the bush will be lost.
When planted in open ground the flower must first be rooted and only then pinching should be done. In addition, before this, you need to give the seedlings a little stronger and adapt.
It is required to avoid crowding, plant the sprouts less often, leaving space between them. Otherwise, the bushes will be small.
If planting is done in a greenhouse, the top is separated after picking. It is required to water and add fertilizers to the soil. Several times a week. Spray twice a day with water. Pinch is repeated in a month. These processes will improve flowering. Then the shoots from the sides are shortened to improve the shape.
ampelous petunia
To pinch a petunia correctly at home, you should stock up on tools for this manipulation. Scissors or secateurs are needed, a container into which the removed cuttings will be sent. Finally, stronger seedlings with five large sheets at the top.
Topping ampelous petunias do twice. The first time you need to do this after disembarking at open ground. The plant is given some time so that it can get stronger. After the planted shoots begin to grow and stretch in length, a second pinching is performed. Count from 3 to 5 full sheets. Everything that is located on top is cut off. This does not prevent further growth flower. It only slows down a little and gives side shoots. Flowers appear in the form of large buds.
What to do with the remaining cuttings?
The remaining cuttings cannot be thrown away. You can use the cutting method and get new flowers.
Important and necessary:
- Put away lower leaves so that the stalk does not rot.
- Place the container in which the petunia is planted in water.
- Wait for growth to accelerate.
- Plant in open ground (ground).
