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Is it possible to plant strawberries of different varieties next to each other? Rules for planting strawberries. Planting strawberries in the spring: the choice of soil and site

It is better not to plant strawberries in spring. At this moment, she spends a lot of energy on taking root in a new place and practically does not bear fruit in the first year.

Recently, the climate has changed a bit and even in October there are warm and sunny days. Therefore, the most favorable time for planting strawberries is mid-August - early September. Some time after the end of fruiting, the leaves on the bushes become rough and quickly recover after planting. At this point, constant and abundant watering is not required for normal growth, but it will be enough to water the plants two or three times after planting. At this point, you can plant any strawberry bushes, even with a poor root system. Even later planting will not allow the plants to take root well before winter and will entail some loss of crop next year.

There is another period good landing strawberries. After the end of flowering and the formation of all the berries, the fruiting bush can be transplanted to a new place. To do this, the bushes are dug together with a clod of earth and do not shake it off. Carefully transferred to a new place, where the landing pits have already been prepared. Around the planted bushes, the soil is sprinkled with peat or humus. At this point, the berries need a lot of moisture and abundant watering must be carried out daily. In a new place, some stems may wilt, but after a couple of days everything will change. Such planting of strawberries cannot be carried out in large volumes, as it requires great care, attention and some experience.

Before planting strawberries in the fall, you need to choose a place. She loves to scatter sunlight, so it should be planted under the crowns of trees. The previous crops growing in this place should be carrots, beets, onions, dill. In place of cucumbers and potatoes, it is better not to grow strawberries as they have some insect pests.

Before planting, pinch the roots a little - this will speed up the process of survival of strawberries. It is also necessary to cut out old dried leaves and remove the whiskers.

Then mark the bed on the plot. It is most convenient to plant strawberries in rows with a distance of up to 30 cm between them. Bushes in a row are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other. And between the beds they leave a gap of up to 50 cm. There should not be more than three rows of strawberries in the garden - this will allow you to produce the most proper care behind the plants.

Next, they dig holes along one row and place one strawberry bush in them. It is important that the growing point is level with the ground, otherwise the plant may die. The earth around the bushes is compacted and watered abundantly. This completes the strawberry planting process, and you can proceed to the competent care of your plants.

Processing strawberries in spring

HOW TO PLANT A STRAWBERRY CORRECTLY - 4 WAYS OF LANDING

How to plant strawberries in order to get a good harvest? I offer you four effective ways planting strawberries, which have long established themselves among gardeners.

Planting strawberries in free-standing bushes Strawberry rosettes are planted one at a time at a distance of 45-60 cm. To prevent the plants from intertwining, the whiskers are regularly removed, thereby allowing the bushes to develop intensively and bear fruit abundantly.
Disadvantages of the method: labor-intensive, frequent loosening of the soil, weed control, mulching and mustache trimming are necessary.
Advantages of the method: the berries are large due to the small number of bushes, each plant is ventilated, which reduces the likelihood of putrefactive diseases, saves planting material.

Planting strawberries in rows In this case, the bushes are planted at a distance of 15-20 cm in one row, and a strip of 40 cm wide is left between the rows so that you can freely approach the plantings. As with growing strawberries in separate bushes, it is necessary to loosen the soil, remove mustaches and weeds.
Disadvantages of the method: the same as the first.
Advantages of the method: strawberries planted in rows grow well and bear fruit for 5-6 years in one place.

Planting strawberries in nests With this planting method, one plant is planted in the center of the future nest and six more around it. The result is a hexagon with a distance between plants in the nest of 5-8 cm. The distance between nests in one row should be 25-30 cm, and between rows 35-40 cm.
Disadvantages of the method: a lot of planting material is required. Advantages of the method: landed at five more plants than at traditional ways planting, which ensures a large harvest.

Carpet Planting Strawberries This is the easiest and most cheap way landing. Its essence is that the whiskers of the strawberry bushes do not break off, thereby allowing the berry to grow independently over the entire allotted area. With such a compacted way of placing bushes, a special microclimate arises in the surface layer, and a layer of vegetable mulch is also formed by itself. This inhibits weed growth and keeps the soil moist.
Advantages of the method: it is convenient for those who do not often go to the country, the berries rarely need watering, loosening and fertilizing due to natural mulching.
Disadvantages of the method: over time, the berries can shrink.

How to propagate strawberries with a mustache

How did our grandmothers propagate strawberries? After the strawberry bushes bore fruit, they “launched” the garden bed, that is, they did not cut off the mustache. And at the end of August, the strongest rooted rosettes were selected and transferred to a new place. Raise your hand, those who blindly follow the grandmother's method. Forest of hands!

But if you want to get high-quality seedlings, if you want to keep all the varietal qualities of strawberries, if you need an excellent harvest from year to year, you need to act a little differently. How to properly propagate strawberries with a mustache, we will tell today on the electronic pages of "Country Councils".

Why is it impossible to take mustaches from fruit-bearing bushes?

The correct approach to propagating strawberries is as follows: the bush should produce either berries or a mustache. One out of two. If a gardener takes mustaches from freshly hatched strawberry bushes, he gets defective seedlings. The plant has already spent most of the nutrients on the ripening of berries, which means that its mustache will be much weaker than we would like.

In addition, forcing the bushes to "work on two fronts", the summer resident risks losing them ahead of time. Strawberries are depleted faster, the berries become smaller, the bushes are more likely to be exposed to diseases, the yield of the beds is reduced by 20-30%.

Reproduction of strawberries using mother bushes

Proper propagation of strawberries begins with the selection of the so-called mother bushes. To do this, in the first year after planting, absolutely all mustaches are removed from absolutely all strawberry bushes and fruiting is expected. The bushes that survived the vagaries of the weather best of all did not get sick and gave the most large berries, mark with a sticker, a stick, a tie - whatever, as long as it is noticeable. These are your future mother bushes. For convenience, you can even transplant them to a separate bed according to the pattern of 40 centimeters between bushes, 80 centimeters between rows.

Proper propagation of strawberries The following year, all buds are removed on selected mother bushes, preventing flowering and, accordingly, setting berries.

Thus, without being able to produce seeds, plants will put all their strength into vegetative reproduction, that is, in the mustache. Already in the first month of summer, the mother bushes will begin to give a mustache, on which rosettes will subsequently be tied. You need to leave only the largest, most powerful mustache, and ruthlessly cut off all the little things. The best option- shorten the mustache of strawberries, leaving only one outlet on each, closest to the mother bush. But if you need a lot of seedlings, then you can use the second sockets.

When the first roots appear on the outlets, two options for further action are possible:

Propagation of strawberries with a mustache Pin sockets to the ground, bury them a little in loose soil, and then water and care for them, like any other seedlings.
Reproduction of strawberries with a mustache Without separating the outlet from the mother bush, plant each in a separate pot, where it will develop its own root system.
Strawberry seedlings are planted in a new place in late July - early August, so that before the onset of the first frost, the plants have time to take root and grow stronger. Therefore, two weeks before planting, the mustache connecting the sockets to the mother bush is cut, giving the young plants time to get used to eating from their own roots.

Reproduction of strawberries with a mustache mother bushes can serve as a source of high-quality seedling material for two to three years. Moreover, two- or three-year-old strawberries produce much more whiskers than first-year ones. Well, after three years, it is recommended to replace the uterine bushes with young ones, having carried out the entire selection procedure again.

Planting strawberries (strawberries): timing and technology

In previous articles of "Country Councils" we dealt with the features of the propagation of strawberries (strawberries) and how to plant them.

It's time to get up close and personal with the technology. When should strawberries be planted? How to plant it correctly so that each bush takes root and overwinter? How to water and feed newly planted seedlings? Is it necessary to mulch young plantings? Today our goal is to find answers to these and some other questions.

Planting dates for strawberries

Landing dates

For the future excellent harvest of berries, it is necessary first of all quality seedlings, and the best whiskers and rosettes appear in early spring or late summer, when temperatures are low and there is plenty of moisture.

That's why optimal timing planting strawberries in the Middle lane are considered periods from April 15 to May 5 and from July 25 to September 5. In the southern regions, spring planting begins in early March, and autumn planting ends at the end of October.

When is it better to plant strawberries: in spring or autumn? In most areas and in most cases, the August planting of young strawberries is considered the most successful option. During this period, the gardener has more time, and a lot of planting material, and the weather, as a rule, is favorable for young bushes to take root, take root in a new place and safely endure the winter. But in open areas blown by all winds in areas with severe, little snowy winters, it is better to be careful and postpone planting to spring. Then the young bushes will have a whole summer to get stronger.

Preparing a bed for strawberries (strawberries)

Garden preparation
Strawberries are recommended to be planted in well-lit areas where garlic, onions, root vegetables or legumes used to grow. It is very good if the bed for strawberries was chosen in advance and sown with green manure in the spring, which had already been mowed by August, and the bed was shed with a solution of EM preparations. Most the best siderat for strawberries, it's lupins.

In any case, before planting seedlings, the site must be cleared of weeds and the soil mixed. Strawberries are a rather “gluttonous” berry, so in addition to the earth, compost, rotted manure or biohumus, and ash will be required to prepare the soil.

Holes for strawberry seedlings are made deep and wide. The distance between the holes is 30-50 cm. The distance between the rows is 40 cm. The earth taken out of the holes is mixed with the rest of the soil components in the following proportions: 1 bucket of earth, 1 bucket of manure, 1 bucket of compost, 2 cups of ash. From the soil prepared in this way, a small mound is made in the center of each hole.

Strawberry (strawberry) planting technology

Like any other crop, it is preferable to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or in the evening.

An hour before planting, the seedlings need to be watered, it would be even better to soak the seedlings in water or a growth biostimulant for a couple of hours. Some gardeners keep bushes in garlic infusion before planting (150 ml of garlic infusion per 10 liters of water) to prevent pest attacks.
strawberry seedling roots
A good strawberry seedling should have 3-4 healthy leaves (the rest should be removed) and well-spread roots 10 centimeters long (extra centimeters should be cut off).

So, we have prepared young bushes, holes with "mounds" and the remains of the soil mixture. It remains only to install each bush on a mound so that the growth point (the so-called "heart") is on the same level with the surface of the bed, and the roots are straightened along the slopes of the mound.
Hill landing
Then, holding the bush, it is necessary to fill it with soil prepared in advance and at the same time spill it with water. This is done so that the contact of the roots and the earth is closer.
Newly planted strawberry bush
Be sure to ensure that the growing point is not too deep or too elevated above the soil.
Landing dates

Care for a young bed of strawberries (strawberries)

If you planted strawberries in the spring, flower stalks and mustaches may appear on the young bed. Cut them off without pity! Now the main task seedlings - rooting in a new place, and fruiting and reproduction can and should be postponed until the next season.
Removing colors
Be sure to mulch freshly planted strawberries. The best mulching material for this berry is needles - it prevents diseases from developing and repels pests. But straw, and dried grass, and foliage, and rotted sawdust, etc. are also suitable.

Two weeks after planting, the young berry is fed. As a top dressing, you can use an infusion of biohumus (sold in stores), an infusion of bird droppings or herbal infusion. All these fertilizers are organic, contain a large amount of easily digestible nitrogen, which contributes to rapid growth young strawberries.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Processing strawberries in spring

Spring processing of strawberries is one of the first things a summer resident does when he returns to his favorite site after long winter. However, not everyone knows how to properly process strawberries in the spring in order to own forces save money and increase the future harvest.

Do I need to remove old dried leaves? Is it worth removing upper layer soil? How to treat strawberries from pests and diseases? What should be the first spring dressing of strawberries? Questions have been asked, so we will answer ...

Processing strawberries in spring

After the snow melts and the first warm days come, the gardeners of the old school, armed with a flat cutter, a chopper and a shovel, proceed to the standard processing of strawberries “according to the textbook”: they remove the top layer of soil (formidable pests live there), cut off the dried leaves (because the bushes should look beautiful), feed, loosen and sprinkle the soil, spray the bushes from pests. Processing strawberries in the spring As a result, bare beds are obtained, which, after the very first hot sunny day, are covered with a crust. And the crust again needs to be loosened, etc. etc.
So it can't be done? Why is it possible. But such processing takes a lot of time and effort.

For those who feel sorry for the effort spent in vain, we offer a slightly different way of processing strawberry bushes.

So, here is a list of the main activities that need to be done in the spring in the strawberry garden:

1. Raking mulch that has not rotted over the winter;

2. Mandrel of the sides of the beds;

3. Top dressing with mineral or organic fertilizers;

4. Initial treatment of strawberry bushes for diseases with chemicals or biological products;

5. Mulching.

Cleaning and guidance "marafet"

We are sure that you are mulching your strawberries with one of the suitable organic mulching materials, which means that plant residues that have not had time to rot remain on the beds after the winter. They should be removed from compost heap. The meaning of this procedure is that the soil covered with mulch warms up more slowly, and in order for the strawberry bushes to start growing faster, the earth must be warm. After getting rid of last year's mulch, you need to straighten the sides of the beds so that they look neat and the neighbor does not look at you like you are lazy.

Spring dressing of strawberries

Fertilizing Strawberries in the Spring To encourage the appearance of fresh green leaves, strawberry bushes can be fertilized. If you are not against the use of mineral fertilizers in the garden, then choose one of the options for complex feeding:

1 tbsp nitroammophoski for 10 liters of water.
Supporters organic farming feed strawberry beds infusion of mullein (1 part of manure to 10 parts of water) or chicken manure (1 part of manure to 12 parts of water) or nettle infusion (a bucket of young nettle is poured with warm water and kept for 3-4 days).

Top dressing of strawberries is applied directly under the bush, avoiding the solution on the leaves.

Processing strawberries from pests and mulching

In early spring, before strawberries bloom, it is recommended to carry out the treatment of bushes against pests. Those who are not afraid of chemicals spray the plants with Taurus or Caesar. For adherents of biological products, there are "Fitoverm" and "Acrofit". Just do not forget that drugs of biological origin are effective at temperatures above + 18 ° C.

Some gardeners prefer to control pests with ordinary water. Water must be heated to a temperature of 60-65 ° C and pour strawberries on top of it with a watering can with a fine strainer. The main thing is that the water does not have time to cool down ahead of time and that it falls on the leaves more or less evenly. "Water procedures" not only help to get rid of pests, they also stimulate growth and contribute to the enlargement of berries.

Mulching strawberries in the spring When the soil warms up well and the threat of return frosts has ceased to hang like a sword of Damocles over the summer cottage, the strawberry ridges must be mulched again. Spruce and pine needles are best suited for this purpose. The fact is that such a mulch plays the role of a kind of antiseptic - with it, strawberries are not afraid of any diseases. Straw mulch is also good, which allows moisture to pass through well and does not allow the berries to rot. True, slugs and other “gluttonous bellies” can take root in the straw, so coniferous mulch is considered number one for strawberries.

But what about old leaves? Old dried leaves will eventually disappear on their own, without our help, and at the same time, it is they who at first will “work instead of mulch”, protecting the soil from drying out and creating an optimal microclimate in the garden with strawberries.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Top dressing strawberries in spring, summer, autumn

Not every gardener can boast of rich black earth soil in his area. Again, not every gardener, even if he decides to practice natural farming, is able to replace all his traditional beds with more fertile organic ones in one sitting. Especially if we are talking about strawberries that grow in one place for several years.

In order not to be left in the season without a real fragrant and sweet strawberry, many summer residents have to rely on top dressing. Today we will talk about when and how to feed strawberries for optimal growth, lush flowering and appropriate fruiting.

During holiday season strawberries are usually fed three times: in spring, in summer after the main harvest, and in late summer or autumn before winter preparation. Particularly responsive to feeding remontant strawberry, it must be fed at intervals of a week.

First dressing of strawberries in spring

Fertilizers for strawberries

For the first time, strawberry bushes are fed in the spring, at the very beginning of the summer season, as soon as the snow melts and more or less warm weather sets in. The first top dressing is aimed at stimulating the growth of fresh shoots and leaves, therefore it must contain nitrogen.

Recipes spring feeding strawberries

1 tbsp ammonium sulfate and 2 cups of mullein per 10 liters of water;
1 tbsp nitroammofoski per 10 liters of water;
1 part mullein to 10 parts water;
1 part chicken manure to 12 parts water
Pour 1 bucket of nettle with warm water and soak for 3-4 days;
30 drops of iodine, 1 teaspoon boric acid, 1 cup of ash per 10 liters of water;
3 grams of potassium permanganate, 0.5 tsp boric acid, 1 tbsp. urea and 0.5 cups of ash per 10 liters of water;
2/3 bucket dried crusts, pieces, any leftovers rye bread pour water and keep warm for 6-10 days. Then dilute with water three times;
1 part whey (or any other fermented milk product) to 3 parts water.
Under each strawberry bush, it is necessary to pour 0.5-1 liter of liquid top dressing, depending on the size of the bush.

Second dressing of strawberries

How to feed strawberries

The second feeding of strawberries is carried out in the summer, towards the end of July, after the main harvest of berries. It would seem why? The fact is that at this time the formation of new roots begins and flower buds are laid for the next season, so additional potassium and trace elements will not interfere with plants.

Recipes for the second feeding of strawberries

2 tbsp nitrophoska and 1 tsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water;
2 tbsp potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water;
1 glass of biohumus per 10 liters of water is infused for a day, then diluted in half with water;
100 grams of ash per 10 liters of water.
Under each bush you need to pour about 0.5 liters of any of the above fertilizers. Alternatively, the ash can not be dissolved in water, but scattered directly under the bushes. After two weeks, it would be good to repeat the top dressing: after all, at this time the plants need food most of all.

The third dressing of strawberries in the fall

Top dressing for garden strawberries

The last third dressing of strawberries is recommended to be carried out in mid-September in dry weather, when the harvest has long been harvested, and the bushes begin to prepare for the coming winter. As a rule, young (one-year-old) plants especially need a third top dressing in order to successfully overwinter.

Recipes for autumn feeding strawberries

1 part mullein to 10 parts water + 0.5 cup ash;
1 part mullein to 10 parts water + 2 tbsp. superphosphate + 1 glass of ash;
2 tbsp nitroammofoski, 30 grams of potassium sulfate and 1 cup of ash per 10 liters of water.
Each bush will be enough from 250 to 500 ml. such a feed.

For those who don't care at all mineral fertilizers and grows strawberries according to the rules of organic farming with mandatory mulching, we advise you to feed strawberries with biohumus infusion four times per season. The first time in early spring, then before flowering, the third time during the berry set and the last time after fruiting.

We wish you success and great harvests!

How to grow seedlings of strawberries from seeds

Not all summer residents decide to propagate strawberries with seeds. And this is understandable. Whatever manufacturers of planting material write on bright packaging, growing strawberries from seeds is a troublesome business. Seeds sprout for a long time, and often disappear altogether; seedlings look fragile and small, you have to dive with tweezers; it is unacceptable to overmoisten the seedling soil, and even more so it is impossible to overdry ... So many worries!

Nevertheless, growing strawberries or strawberries from seeds has its advantages. If you want to improve your berry health, try new interesting varieties and do not be afraid of any difficulties, go for it! And we will help you with useful advice ...

First of all, we advise you to pay attention to small-fruited varieties. remontant strawberries. It is less capricious than strawberries, it costs less, and the chances of getting good seedlings a lot more. In the future, having gained experience, you will move on to growing large-fruited varieties.

Sowing seeds of strawberries for seedlings

Growing strawberries from seeds
You can plant strawberries for seedlings both in February and in April. Everything will depend on your conditions.

Whoever is ready to provide the strawberries with the lightest window sill or illuminate the seedlings for 12-14 hours a day can safely sow seeds in early February and have the right to expect the first harvest of berries this season.

Well, for those who have all the window sills already occupied by tomatoes and peppers, it is not forbidden to plant strawberries in March or at the very beginning of April. Perhaps this season, such bushes will not be able to bear fruit, but next year they will show themselves in all their glory.

Soil preparation for strawberry seedlings

Growing strawberry seedlings: sowing seeds
main properties, necessary for the soil for seedlings of strawberries - lightness and water permeability. To achieve the desired quality, some gardeners advise sifting the soil mixture through a sieve. The following mixtures are best suited for strawberry seedlings:

Option 1: 3 parts garden soil, 3 parts humus or compost, 1/2 part wood ash.
Option 2: 4 parts vermiculite, 3 parts peat, 3 parts sand.
Option 3: 1 part coconut fiber, 1 part humus or biohumus.
Option 4: 3 parts sand, 5 parts humus.
Option 5: 2 parts of sod land, 1 part of sand, 1 part of peat.
Option 6: 3 parts of sand, 1 part of garden soil, 1 part of humus.
In order to disinfect the soil as much as possible, it is either calcined, or frozen, or shed in advance with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Stratification of seeds and sowing for seedlings

How to grow seedlings of strawberries from seeds
That's why summer residents don't like to mess with strawberry seedlings so much! Because of the notorious stratification, which in this case can't be bypassed.

Stratification is the creation of seeds for germination conditions close to natural. The strawberry seeds that we have on hand, roughly speaking, are sleeping. Growth blockers work to the fullest - special substances that prevent the germination of seeds before the onset of a favorable period. The task of the gardener is to artificially create all the conditions for the seeds so that they “come out of hibernation” faster and start growing.

How to stratify strawberry seeds? You can go the traditional way and keep the seeds on a damp cloth in the refrigerator for a week, and then carefully sow in the ground. And you can "kill two birds with one stone" by combining stratification with sowing.

Strawberry seeds are best sown in plastic containers with a lid, having previously made several drainage holes. This container is filled soil mixture, not reaching the edge by a couple of centimeters. Slightly moisten the soil so that small seeds do not fall too deep, and then evenly distribute the seeds over the surface. They are not covered with earth, and the two or two and a half centimeters remaining to the top of the container are filled with snow. Close the lid of the container and send it to the refrigerator for two weeks.

In the refrigerator, the snow will gradually melt and go into the soil, dragging the seeds with it. This is exactly what happens in natural conditions spring. This is exactly what we were aiming for!

After the expiration of the stratification period, the container with the planted seeds is put on the windowsill. You don’t need to open the lid yet, you usually don’t need to water either (there is usually enough moisture from melted snow). But to arrange additional lighting not allowed.

After 10-15 days (in some varieties after a month), the first shoots appear.

Caring for seedlings of strawberries before planting in the ground

Growing strawberry seedlings: first shoots
With the advent of seedlings, the lid of the box must be periodically opened (or holes made in it). Young seedlings are not recommended to be opened immediately and permanently in order to avoid rapid evaporation of moisture. Constant moisture (but not waterlogging) of the soil is one of key points in the cultivation of strawberry seedlings.

When sowing seeds in a plastic transparent container with a lid, it is very convenient to monitor the level of humidity. If the lid of the container looks a little foggy, everything is fine; if there is so much condensate that it collects in drops on the lid, then there is excess moisture in the soil, and it is necessary to ventilate the seedlings; If the lid is dry, then it's time to water.

Strawberries are watered very carefully: either with drops along the walls of the container, or from a fine sprayer, or medical syringe. The best water for irrigation is melted water. If there are concerns about fungal infections that can doze in the soil, you can add Fitosporin, diluted according to the instructions, to the irrigation water.

Approximately 3-4 days after germination, the lid can be opened permanently.

With the advent of 2-3 real leaves, seedlings of strawberries dive into individual cups. The procedure is not the easiest, because the plants are still tiny, fragile, with an elongated stem. Many people use tweezers to carefully hold each blade of grass. When picking, it is necessary to ensure that the root does not bend up. First, the seedling is sprinkled with earth to the same depth, later, when the seedlings take root in a new place, they add earth to the cotyledon leaves, without falling asleep the growth point. The entire long stem of strawberry seedlings will be underground and will give additional roots.
Growing strawberry seedlings at home
Some gardeners simply "spud" the sprouts, raking the soil so as to fill up a long stem, leaving a growth point and leaves above the ground, and picking is done later, with the appearance of 3-4 pairs of true leaves. In this case, the seedlings will be much stronger, but there may be a problem with the interlacing of the roots. The roots of seedlings can become so intertwined with each other that you have to rinse them with water and gently (with a fork) unravel.

After picking, caring for strawberry seedlings comes down to constantly monitoring the level of humidity. In addition, you can harden seedlings by taking them out to the balcony at stable positive temperatures. It is not necessary to feed strawberry seedlings until the very landing in the ground.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Strawberries are one of the most popular berry crops grown on summer cottages. Every year gardeners look forward to the start of the season. Strawberries have two growing seasons. The first collection takes place in the spring, and the second in the summer. In order to get a rich harvest, you need to choose the right site, purchase good seedlings, choose the best methods for planting strawberries and take care of them throughout the entire period.

Plot for sowing

Chernozem, loamy or sandy loamy soil is the soil on which strawberries will feel great and give a rich harvest.

The gardener will receive a low yield if he plants a berry on light gray, peaty, clay or sod-podzolic soil.

In addition, strawberries should not be grown in the lowlands. The garden plot should have soil with an acidity of 5-6 pH. Also, soil is ideal for strawberries, in which the groundwater level is at least 60 cm. You should pay attention to the freezing depth: at 8ºC frost, soil freezing should be less than 20 cm.

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Methods for planting strawberries on the site

In order to plant strawberries in the garden, there are several methods:

• string method;
• film tunnel method;
• method of vertical beds;

The arrangement of beds and planting strawberries do not require special tools, but you will have to prepare something. Required inventory:

• seedling;
• shovel;
• rake;
• cord;
• wooden pegs;
• roulette;
• bayonet;
• ruberoid;
• polyethylene film and wire arcs;
• agrofibre;
• peat;
• compost.

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Planting strawberries by the line method: features and nuances

For planting strawberries with a row method per 100 m², up to 670 pieces should be purchased. seedlings. The berry can be planted at any time of the year, except for winter. But there are the most favorable moments for planting strawberries. For example, in early April, strawberries will grow better than in May, and when planted in the last month of summer, the gardener will harvest the crop for the next season. The most extreme is the middle of September.

Cloudy weather is best for planting. You can plant one-line or two-line method. The most common method is two-line. In this case, the distance between the seedlings of seedlings should be about 20 cm, and the distance between the lines should be up to 30 cm. With the single-line method, the distance between plants remains the same as in the two-line method (20 cm), and the distance between the lines changes to 70 cm. beds are best to choose the direction from north to south.

For ease of landing on the site, you can pull the cord. That is, on each side of the site, future beds should be marked with a tape measure. Drive the pegs into the marked places and pull the cord. Take a wooden stick about 25 cm long and mark along the cord the places where the seedlings will be planted.

Next, holes should be made either by hand or with a bayonet. The depth of the hole should be sufficient so that the roots of the plant do not bend when planting. Pour 1 liter of water into each well. The roots of the seedlings are placed in the resulting slurry and carefully covered with mud, and then covered with dry soil. The soil around the plant is well compacted. Before planting, each plant should be carefully examined and diseased plants with rotten roots and leaves should be excluded.

If strawberries have too long roots they should be shortened. The average length will be approximately 7 cm. By cutting the roots, the gardener will enable the plant to further develop the root system.

Not all gardeners know a little trick. In order to ripe berries remained intact and clean, so that pests and excessive moisture do not spoil them, experienced gardeners lay roofing material on the ground. Crosswise cuts are made on the canvas with a knife. Holes on the canvas should be made at a distance from each other equal to 30 cm. The corners of the roofing material are bent inward and a plant is planted in the hole formed. A hole is dug with a small shovel and the plant is positioned so that its heart is flush with the soil surface. By placing the heart quite high above the soil, the gardener can freeze the plant in the winter, and planting too deep can cause rotting.

It is very important that the roots of the strawberries in the hole are located freely, and the earth fits snugly against the plant. In order to check whether the earth is firmly packed, simply pull on the sheet. If the roots are poorly compacted, then the plant will take root for a long time or may even die.

After planting, the earth must be tamped and watered each plant with water. Strawberries should be watered for 10 days until they take root. During dry weather in the heat, plants should be covered with green branches or burlap. In addition, do not forget about mulching. By loosening the soil, the gardener enables the roots to receive more air and water. When frost sets in, when the snow has not yet fallen, strawberries must be covered.

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Film tunnels

This planting method allows you to plant strawberry seedlings a few weeks earlier and thus get ripe berries much faster than when grown outdoors. Suitable for this early varieties strawberries that can be covered with foil.

Installation of tunnels. Tunnel work starts in April or May. On the site at a distance of 1 m, wire arcs are installed between each other. The height of the arches should be approximately 0.5 m from the ground. A film is mounted on the arcs and fixed with twine. This is done so that the film does not sag between the arcs. One side of the film is sprinkled with earth and bricks are laid. And on the other hand, a rail is attached. This design will allow you to freely raise one end of the tunnel and take care of the plants: water, ventilate, mulch and, of course, harvest.

Care for strawberries under the film is simple. A thermometer is placed inside the greenhouse, and if the temperature rises above 25ºC, then the greenhouse is ventilated. During good weather or flowering, the film can be lifted from time to time. And during the harvest, it can be completely removed.

For watering strawberries take warm water. It is better to water early in the morning. For good growth and development of the plant, it is necessary to periodically weed and introduce top dressing. You also need to watch out for harmful insects that can damage the berries.

To protect strawberries from frost, shelters are used, which are made from straw, spruce branches or fallen leaves. If there is no such material, strawberry bushes should be spudded without sprinkling growth points, and carefully fertilized with peat or compost.

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vertical beds

Strawberries with this planting method grow on a multi-tiered container. Planting strawberries in this way is most effective if the soil is infertile, heavy or with a high level of groundwater. Also, this method is used if strawberries are planted next to buildings or fences. The advantage of the method is a rather large yield with a relatively small planting area.

Containers for vertical cultivation can be any structures of conical and pyramidal shapes. When choosing containers, it should be borne in mind that the distance between plants should be about 10 cm, and the volume should be at least 1.5 liters. Each container must be filled with a mixture of peat, humus and soddy soil in a ratio of 1:1:1. In addition, you can use peat and sod land in a ratio of 2: 1, adding a little sand to the mixture.

After the containers and seedlings are prepared, they start planting strawberries, starting from the lowest tier. Strawberries should be watered every other day, at the rate of 300 ml warm water under each bush. At the same time, they fertilize and remove the mustache.

In the cold season, the containers are removed and placed on the ground. For shelter use agrofiber, leaves or peat. In severe frosts, the shelter layer is made larger and covered with snow on top. Thus, inside the container, the temperature will be kept within 6ºC of heat.

Strawberries have long and firmly "registered" in our gardens and cottages. And this is not surprising, because the taste of this berry is simply unique. And the accumulated experience of growing this crop allows you to experiment with its planting. We will find out what is interesting about the spring placement of such seedlings in open ground.

When to plant strawberries in spring

The cultivation of these berries is associated with some nuances that the owners of strawberry plantations have to take into account. The future harvest largely depends on the right moment for planting.

calendar dates

Seedlings are placed in open ground with an eye to the weather conditions characteristic of a particular region. If we talk about exact dates, then for different areas they will be like this:

• first of all, they start planting in the south (in a mild or subtropical climate, they can be planted on March 5-15);
• in areas with a temperate climate, landing is carried out from April 10 until the end of the month;
• for the northern regions, the interval between May 1 and 15 is more suitable.

But you should not focus on the dates on the calendar alone - other factors also play a role.

Weather

For planting in open ground, a stable air temperature is extremely important. not less than +10…+15 °С.

In many areas, almost the entire spring, the risk of repeated ones remains - they get out of the situation by covering the seedlings with a film or, which are slightly opened on a fine day or at constant + 15 ... + 20 ° С.

Important! When grown in capital greenhouse external conditions do not play a special role (at worst, a coating in the form of agrofibre will help out).

In turn, the soil should also warm up (at least up to + 8-9 ° С in the upper layer).

A fine cloudless day is suitable for transfer to open ground - a cool spring rain in the first few days will be inopportune (film also helps here).

Region Features

Diversity weather conditions left its mark on the course of landing operations and the timing of such operations.

IN Ukraine spring planting occurs mainly in mid-April - early May (in the northern and western regions with a not always predictable climate, they are transferred 1-2 weeks later).

In the south, the same work is carried out much earlier - the soil warms up faster, and frosts are not so feared there. As a result, the harvest is removed earlier. Moreover, in a warm climate, fruiting dates are shifted 7-10 days earlier than the standards of different varieties.

IN Moscow region the situation is different: the spring landing is noticeably inferior in popularity, which has been held since the end of August. The reason for this is the hot summer and not too favorable ecology.

Did you know? Due to its composition, strawberries are considered a natural analogue of Aspirin.

But in Siberia and on Ural the main arrays of strawberries are laid in the ground just in the spring - for these regions with their harsh climate, this is the only opportunity to get strong seedlings and harvest. By the first cold weather, the bushes have time to grow well.

Site selection

Strawberries are considered to be soil-demanding plants. When choosing a “patch” for this culture, it is recommended to pay attention to the following factors:

• - it should be soft and loose, it can be black earth, light loam or sandy loam. In addition, the soil is prepared in advance: loosened, etc. (this stage of work will be discussed a little lower);
• occurrence of groundwater - their optimum depth- at least 0.8-1 m. A higher level will greatly complicate cultivation (in such cases, high, up to 50 cm, ridges are poured);
• location - ideally, seedlings are taken out to a small hill or a gentle southern slope - a lowland will not work;
• illumination - strawberries only need open space. Of course, it is not always possible to achieve a complete absence of shade in the country, but the bushes should be in the most illuminated points;
• the wind, or rather, its absence - these berries love places protected from gusts;
• predecessor crops - the best "ancestors" in the area will be and, and, as well as legume lines (, soybeans and). They saturate the soil with nitrogen, which has a good effect on its structure. But there are also species after which the earth is reluctant to accept seedlings - these are, and.

Important! Nightshade crops significantly impoverish the soil. Moreover, the strawberries planted after them are also threatened by late blight.

Many are interested in the question of how many years strawberries can be grown in the same place. It all depends on the variety chosen: many bushes reach their peak as early as 2-3 years, while others quietly grow for 4 years. It is this figure that is the upper limit of the term of "residence" of strawberries in one location. After this period, the site is given something like a 2-year vacation, during which the bushes are transplanted.

How to choose healthy seedlings when buying

We decided on the place, now we need to pick up the strongest seedlings.
Determining their status is quite simple:

• first of all, they evaluate the appearance - there should not be any drooping leaves and dry roots;
• healthy leaves numbering from 3 to 5 have a rich green color. They are leathery to the touch, often with a noticeable fluff. Shriveled, pale, or speckled leaves indicate that the seedling is seriously ill;
• seedlings that are sold with an open rhizome are considered healthy if their fibrous roots are at least 7-8 cm long (with a horn thickness of 7 mm or more);
• if the seedlings are sold in pots, the strongest specimens will have time to get comfortable in their containers (in the case of peat containers, the roots will come out altogether - this is quite normal).

Did you know? Every summer in Nemi (Italy) a strawberry festival is held. His "chip" is a huge bowl into which they pour a ton of strawberries and pour champagne. A chic dessert can be tasted by any passer-by.

Of course, it is better to make such purchases from trusted sellers who, if necessary, will give advice on growing a particular variety.

Preparatory work

A large strawberry crop is “programmed” long before planting. Soil pre-treatment is of exceptional importance.

Did you know? The largest strawberry berry was grown by the Japanese Koji Nakao - the fruit was tightened by 250 g!

Garden preparation

Even at the beginning of autumn, the beds are dug up by 25-30 cm (that is, on a shovel bayonet). This removes all remaining roots, especially wheatgrass.

At the beginning of spring, the soil is loosened with a rake. 2 weeks before landing preventive treatment soil in the form of disinfection (this will reduce the risk of fungal diseases).
To do this, prepare a simple composition:

• 0.5 kg of lime and 50 g are added to 10 liters of water;
• the solution is stirred and heated to +70 °C;
• application rate - 1 l / 1 sq. m.

A separate topic is autumn sowing. This will be an excellent help for future seedlings and a good healing procedure for the fertile layer. For such purposes, they are best suited and, which are not afraid of frost. True, immediately before laying strawberries, you will have to work hard to remove their tops and roots.

Seedling preparation

This stage is distinguished by its simplicity. All you have to do is:

• shorten the longest roots to 6-7 cm;
• dip the seedlings in a 1% solution and keep up to 3 days in a cool place;
• the final touch is the processing of the rhizome with a mixture of clay and in equal proportions. This manipulation will speed up engraftment.

Many cut off the lower leaves right before planting, leaving only a heart (growth point) and one upper, necessarily straightened, process.

Landing Rules

The most crucial moment is the landing itself. It is usually held on a cloudy day, in the late afternoon.
The process itself is generally familiar to everyone:

• under each seedling, they dig a hole 12-15 cm deep and with about the same diameter. The standard planting scheme provides for an interval between holes of 35 cm and a row spacing of 40 cm;
• a small amount of warm water is poured into the hole, while laying a little humus. After allowing the liquid to soak, the seedling is placed so that the growth point (heart) is at ground level. Be careful not to damage the roots;
• then they are carefully sprinkled with earth and the top layer is lightly tamped - the soil will swell slightly from moisture, as a result, a small mound should turn out;
• it remains to water the seedlings (0.5 liters of water for each). If for some reason no pre-feeding was made, they get out of the situation by evenly scattering a mixture of 30 g, 15 g and 10 g (dose per 1 sq. M).

Did you know? The British call strawberries a strawberry (because of the mulch made from this material).

This is a common and "scientific" scheme. But the distance between seedlings and rows may vary depending on the chosen planting method. In addition to the above method, other types are used, which differ in their parameters.
Among those are:

• one line method- between seedlings leave 15 cm, while between rows - 60 cm each;
• two-line- here the numbers are different - 20x30 cm. But there is one caveat: this technique is more suitable for summer rather than spring landing;
• carpet- provides for a scheme of 7x30 cm. With this placement, the bushes create a special microclimate - quickly growing together, they leave no chance for weeds. Although there is a significant minus - the berries will be small;
• cluster- suitable for a small number of seedlings. When viewed from above, they form rectangles measuring 50x70 cm each;
• nesting- one seedling is laid in the center of the selected area, and 5-6 bushes are planted around the circumference 10 cm from it. Between such nests maintain an interval of 30 cm. Great option For small area and an impressive amount of planting material.

As you can see, the planting technique allows you to experiment with the placement of future bushes. And in order to collect record harvest, you will have to brush up on the basic rules for caring for strawberry arrays.

Video: planting strawberries in spring

Further care

In principle, it comes down to simple and timely procedures.

usually held in the morning. In heat or drought, seedlings are watered 1 or 2 times a day, with more moderate weather, the frequency is reduced. In heavy and prolonged rain, the beds are covered with a film.

However, don't get carried away water procedures- Excessive moisture can trigger diseases like powdery mildew or rot.

The first 10 days after planting, each bush is watered daily (0.5 l each). Before flowering, the bushes are advised to water by sprinkling. After that, they switch to regular watering using warm (+16 ° C or more) water, trying not to hurt the fruits and flowers - moisture should only get into the soil.

Make a dry summer morning. Only the overgrown mustache is removed. Mother bushes can be used to obtain mustaches for 2-3 years (they are cut off 2 weeks before planting).

The same applies to leaves - the most violent ones are removed, which benefits the entire bush: this protects it from pests and ailments.
Having become acquainted with the intricacies of agricultural technology, we will find out the main thing that interests everyone who plans to start growing "spring" strawberries - when to expect a harvest.

Practice shows that when spring planting it will be possible to feast on juicy berries not earlier than the middle, or even the end of summer. Note that these terms are observed when working with - seedlings, which are simpler, may even wait until the next season (or give small fruits in the first year).

Important! The first dressing in the form of an infusion of bird droppings is applied 2 weeks after planting.

In general, before you start preparing the soil, consider whether you are ready to wait for a full-fledged harvest or is it more attractive autumn method landing.

Video: spring care and top dressing of strawberries

Planting strawberries in the fall has many advantages over spring planting. The most compelling argument for autumn planting or transplanting is getting berries next year. When and how to plant? If you plant strawberry bushes in the spring, you will wait for the harvest only for the next season. In addition, planting seedlings a couple of months before the onset of winter contributes to the preservation of flower buds.

Autumn planting (transplantation) is carried out when the cold has not yet come into its own, and the weather pleases with sunny days. Thanks to the heat, the planting material comfortably adapts to a new place of residence, takes root, and gains strength for wintering. autumn planting strawberries are also convenient for gardeners because they minimize labor costs for caring for bushes, in contrast to the vigilant spring-summer “duty” at the beds. In any case, each summer resident determines the convenient time for planting strawberries on their own. If suddenly for some reason you did not have time to plant this crop in the fall, you can always do it in the spring.

Autumn planting, photo:

Planting dates for strawberries in the fall

It is important to plant bushes correctly and on time. Thus, the most the best period in the Kuban, October is considered for this process, and for middle lane This is August/September. At this time, young seedlings will not be actively attacked by pests and diseases, they will be able to get stronger and prepare for winter.

Early autumn planting starts from the second week of August and lasts until mid-September. The average time for disembarkation starts from the second week of September and continues until October 15-17. The latest period begins about 30 days before the onset of the first frost. However, when determining the timing, you should always rely on the climatic features of your region.

The most abundant harvest should be expected after early or mid-autumn planting. Last days warm August is the most acceptable period for this process. If you are going to use strawberry whiskers for planting, then focus on the time from the third week of August to the second half of September. At a later date, it is not recommended to plant strawberry mustaches, because such tender planting material will not have time to fully adapt in a new place before the onset of cold weather.

Landing process, photo:

Planting strawberries in autumn - soil preparation, fertilizers

Not later than a month before planting (transplanting), you must prepare the soil. During this period, the earth, as they say, will “settle down” - the roots of young plants will not be exposed later. Strawberries are considered a rather unpretentious crop, but, like any plant, she likes fertile soil and she has her "whims". For example, she does not like sandy, peaty, clay and sod-podzolic soil. Under such conditions, the yield of strawberries is significantly reduced, and planting it on swampy soil is not recommended at all - it will not grow at all. It should be borne in mind that even on ideal soil for it, replanting once every three years should be mandatory. The best choice of soil will be chernozem, loam, sandy loam.

Preparing the soil for strawberries when planting in the fall is to improve its composition, increase fertility. This is achieved by introducing useful components, improving aeration. Also good results gives a pre-sowing of mustard or lupins in the place where strawberries will be planted later. With the advent of spring, these green manures will need to be cut, slightly crushed and mixed with the top layer of soil. This technique allows you to saturate the soil with nitrogen, improve its structure. Strawberries will grow well in the place where legumes (peas or beans), broccoli or cauliflower, dill, parsley and other greens were previously grown. If the site previously grew tomatoes or cucumbers, as well as potatoes, then strawberries may not like it.

Pre-planting green manure helps summer residents save on top dressing, but does not completely exclude them. If the earth was previously qualitatively saturated with potassium-phosphorus, organic additives, then fertilizer for strawberries when planting in the fall can not be applied. Moreover, the bushes will not need additional feeding for the first couple of years. Well, if siderats were previously grown at this place, and fertilizers were used to improve their growth, such an environment would be ideal for growing strawberries. If none preliminary work were not produced with the ground, it is recommended to add 7-8 kg of humus per 1 square meter. You can also add humus (chatter) diluted in water right during the planting of the bushes - it is poured directly into the beds. This culture loves compost, biohumus, wood ash (the key to good growth).

The preparation of the beds does not include the introduction of nitrogen-containing dressings, as they reduce the immunity of plants in anticipation of cold weather and frost. The optimal level of soil acidity should be 5-6.5 pH, but not lower. Otherwise, the earth will have to be limed.

If you have observed on the site hyperacidity soil, then lime is best done a couple of years before the proposed planting of strawberries. As for groundwater, it is important that their level does not exceed at least 80 cm to the surface layer of the earth.

Pests are also very fond of eating strawberries: strawberry nematodes, beetles, wireworms are the most common gourmets. If, when digging the soil, you find their larvae, then be sure to treat the soil with diluted ammonia (10-15 ml per 10 liters of water).

Strawberries - planting and care in the fall

Quality planting material is a guarantee good harvest! Choose bushes with a root collar diameter of at least 5-6 mm. The roots should be well developed, at least 6 cm long. Also pay attention to the number of leaves, there should be at least 4-5 of them. If the seedlings were bought or taken from a neighbor, then they should be planted as soon as possible. If the planting process is delayed for any reason, place the bushes where the sun's rays will not reach them, and wrap the roots with damp moss (or at least a slightly wet cloth).

Young seedlings that were grown from seeds are first dipped with roots in a clay solution, and only then they are buried in the soil. This technique prevents the root system from drying out, helps the bushes to take root more comfortably.

The roots of the seedling, photo:

Preparing strawberry seedlings for planting:

1. Plants should only be planted in moist soil. It is preferable to do this on a not sunny day, in the late afternoon.
2. Long roots are best shortened to 6-8 cm.
3. The roots of the bushes can be placed in a container with a growth stimulator diluted in water (for example, Kornevin), about an hour and a half before being buried in the soil
4. On the recommendation of experienced gardeners, you can also soak the roots in a water-garlic tincture. This technique will improve the immunity of plants, scare away harmful insects.
5. Extra leaves on planting bushes are best removed.

Seedling holes should be relatively deep and wide, the distance between them should be at least 30 cm. For each bush, a small mound of earth is poured in the hole, after which a seedling is placed on it, trying to combine the growth point with the surface of the beds. The roots are carefully spread on the sides of the mound, sprinkled with soil, poured with water.

Caring for strawberries after planting in the fall consists in loosening the soil - this provides high-quality moisture access to the root system of plants. Then the soil around the seedlings can be sprinkled with earth mixture with humus or sawdust. It will be nice if the bushes planted for the winter are covered with foliage or coniferous spruce branches - this way you will insure the strawberries during frosts, and the snow masses will remain in the beds. Periodically, the snow will melt and thereby moisten the ground. You can also cover strawberries with agrofibre or straw.

Straw mulching, photo:

Planting strawberries in the fall is associated with some conventions: growing mustaches should be removed immediately, as well as flower stalks. At first, freshly planted bushes need to be watered, but not too plentifully (the top layer of soil should remain moist). After 8-10 days, the frequency of watering is reduced, but the volume of water, on the contrary, is increased. After about three weeks, your seedlings will be adapted to winter conditions. We should not forget that strawberries do not tolerate drought very well, so before the onset of frost, saturate the earth with plenty of moisture. When spring comes, it will be possible to remove the protective mulch, clean the bushes from old and damaged leaves. You can also play it safe and remove the top layer of soil (2-3 cm) for better penetration sun rays, removing possible pests.

Planting strawberries in autumn on agrofibre

The fact that bushes can be covered with appropriate material has long been known to everyone. However, you can also do the opposite. Enough interesting method is planting seedlings on covering material.

Advantages:

• No weeds.
• Protection of berries from contact with the soil - they remain clean, practically do not rot.
• This material is not an obstacle to air or water.
• The soil temperature is higher, as it is “warmed up” by agrofibre.

Initially, a suitable place on the site is selected, it should be flat, sunny, with a minimum slope. This is followed by the preparation of beds for planting strawberries in the fall - we dig up the ground, remove all unnecessary (weeds, roots of trees or bushes), fertilize with humus or other appropriate dressings (mentioned above). After that, we thoroughly level the soil, outline the beds, lay the agrofibre on the ground. The color of the material is not so important, but for some reason in the recommendations experienced gardeners most often you can see advice on choosing exactly black agro-cloth.

Bushes on agrofibre, photo:

The canvas must be overlapped (approximately 20-30 cm), taking into account the shape and size of the site. We lay heavy objects (stones, bricks) around the perimeter and proceed to fixing the agrofibre on the ground. This is best done with wire, previously cut into pieces 50-70 cm long. We bend the wires in the middle, make a hairpin, as it were, with which we pin the material to the ground. This process can be done by eye or in a checkerboard pattern - as you prefer.

1. We outline places for the bushes: the distance between them should be at least 40 cm.
2. We make cross-shaped cuts with a sharp knife.
3. We bend the corners of the incision.
4. We place the bush in the resulting hole.
5. We bend the corners back.
6. Do not bury seedlings too deep into the soil.
7. After planting, water the seedlings well.

If you have a large plantation for strawberries, then when marking the cut points on the agrofibre, we recommend using a marker. It's not hard to make it yourself.

Further care is minimal and consists only in the timely watering of plants. This can be done using a hose with a special nozzle for irrigation. Thus, it will always be wet under the agro-canvas. Before the onset of cold weather, strawberries are covered from above with protective mulch, as described above. In addition to all the advantages of this method, agrofibre will protect the berries from pollution, which is especially important during the rainy season.

Planting strawberries in the fall is not some kind of innovation; this technique has long been successfully used in gardening. If you do everything correctly, then you will be rewarded with a generous harvest of early juicy berries. Try this method too, especially since it does not present any particular difficulties and the use of new technologies.