The cheapest construction mesh fence. Ways to build cheap fences for a summer residence with your own hands. brick fence
Even the most modest suburban area needs a reliable fence. In order to economize family budget and at the same time not to lose quality, many craftsmen choose to build a fence with their own hands. In the course are inexpensive materials that can serve the owner for several decades.
Today on the site for the successful you will find a wide variety of fences for cottages, photos and short descriptions help you make your choice faster. Thanks to practical advice you will be able to independently install the selected design model on your site.
Wooden fence - a classic of the genre
Wood is a favorite material for summer residents to build a fence. Especially attracted by its environmental friendliness and durability. In addition, wooden fencing does not violate the harmony of the natural landscape, does not create a feeling of a closed space and allows summer residents to fully enjoy solitude with nature.
Wood is an excellent material for a country fence It is very easy to work with a tree, so even an amateur can easily cope with building a fence in the country. The material is also interesting because it does not require complex processing or the use of intricate design ideas. Even the simplest models of wooden fences look aesthetically pleasing and harmonious at their summer cottage, pleasing the eyes of owners and passers-by.
The photo shows a wooden blind fence, created by yourself The simplest wooden fence, painted in white, green or any other color, looks quite attractive surrounded by the greenery of nature. You can evaluate the success of this combination by looking at the photo provided here or looking for other illustrations on the Internet.
Wooden picket fence You can use any raw materials that you have stale: logs, boards (even unprocessed), planks. Other materials available in your barn or garage will help complete the design. Purchase the missing parts in the store.
DIY wooden fence The picket fence is perfect for a small country house. It is better to protect a building from a log house with the help of logs. For the solidity of such a fence, natural stones are taken as an additional element.
Pictured is a log fence Fences are also popular. from boards. This is one of the recent options. Boards can be placed different ways. Most often there are such: "chess", "herringbone", "braid". You can get acquainted with them using the photos provided on the Internet. Get the necessary information in order to create the selected model with your own hands wooden fence to give, you will be helped by video materials shot by folk masters.
On the photo is a fence made of boards If you intend to create a living fence for a summer residence, choose a low model of a wooden fence that will let in a lot of light. Seeping sunlight should be enough to plant along the fence climbing plants could fully develop, braiding the fence.
Make a fence with your own hands - great way save Metal and plastic fences at an affordable price with a photo
Cheap can be called country fences from the chain-link mesh. They do a good job with their duty to protect the site from the intrusion of uninvited guests. If there is a goal to protect yourself from prying eyes, use camouflage mesh types that perfectly let through Sun rays and do not prevent air from entering. The camouflage net is not used by itself, but is superimposed on top of the metal one.
Chain link fence Many summer residents have chosen for themselves another option for creating a cheap fence for a summer cottage with their own hands - the use of corrugated board. The design can be made to any height. The material goes well with stone, wood and metal details.
Fencing from corrugated board in the country Profiled sheets as a fence material have many advantages: they are light, durable and easy to handle. For creating good fencing do-it-yourself does not need too much time and effort. However, there is a significant drawback of this option - the fence turns out to be deaf. This leads not only to a visual reduction in space, but also to a violation of air circulation and the creation of a deep shadow on the intake areas.
Having opted for a fence made of corrugated board, you have a certain opportunity to choose a design. For example, you can install a metal frame and fix a solid sheet of a profile sheet on it. The second option is to install individual sections in a frame. Often, sections of the fence from profile sheets are located between brick pillars. They also practice the use of carved and forged inserts in similar enclosing products. The main thing is that all this should be successfully combined with country house and other buildings on the site, and also harmoniously fit into the exterior.
Cheap fence made of corrugated board In recent years, metal picket fences have gained popularity. This is an economical and practical way to fence your site. Visible fences made of eurostudent - a modern approach to creating a fence on country estates. The material is characterized by high aesthetics and ease of use. Even an inexperienced master can mount such a fence with his own hands.
Fence for giving from a metal picket fence Many cottage owners tend to create plastic fences. This is a very durable material that does not require complex installation or care. A wide range allows you to choose options for any design and in any color scheme. Plastic fences - good option not only for installation along the perimeter of land holdings, but also for zoning the territory and fencing flower beds.
Plastic fence in the country Ready-made fences for cottages at affordable prices, with photos
For those who do not have the opportunity or desire to build a fence around the perimeter of their summer cottage with their own hands, there is an easier way - to purchase blocks ready for installation. If necessary, you can order the installation of fencing.
A particularly wide selection of fences from different price categories can be found in online stores. You can see photos on their pages. ready-made options and prices for each.
Even when buying a finished fence, you can get by with a fairly modest amount by choosing cheap material. For a little more, you can get an exclusive fence that fits you perfectly and highlights your personality. It is very important to find a company that is ready to provide quality services and guarantee a long service life of the product.
Euro fence For those who have not yet encountered the purchase of a fence and have little understanding of this topic, the table below will help you navigate the prices. It indicates the approximate cost of a two-meter fence made of different materials. A height of 1.5 is also considered standard; 1.7 and 1.8 m. The difference in cost when ordering a fence of different heights depends on the material and design. For more details, please visit the manufacturer's websites.
Material | The minimum price for 1 linear meter at a height of 2 m, rub. | |
| Standard fence | ||
Deaf picket fence | 1215 | |
Picket fence "checkerboard" | ||
profiled sheet | With 2 horizontal rails | |
With 3 horizontal rails | 1055 | |
| With 2 horizontal guides and color coating | ||
With 3 horizontal guides and color coating | 1117 | |
| Euro picket fence | With 2 horizontal guides and color application | |
With 3 horizontal guides and color application | 1375 | |
| Rabitz" | solid fencing | |
| sectional fence |
Photos and descriptions of improvised fences
If you want to really save money when building a building envelope with your own hands, do not limit yourself to using the cheapest materials. The use of free raw materials stale in a garage or shed will significantly save your wallet. There are sure to be a lot of details that might come in handy. Connect fantasy and skill, and you will succeed original fence for a penny. We provide you with photos of ready-made options to give you an idea.
Fence from plastic bottles
One of the most affordable materials for building a fence in the country are plastic bottles. You can use both the containers themselves, fixing them with a solution, and multi-colored lids, stringing them on a wire. Such a picturesque hedge will be the highlight of your dacha, without requiring any waste. Before connecting with a solution, plastic bottles must be filled with sand to the very neck.
From plastic bottles, you can also create a practical fence for the beds. The bottles are connected with a thick wire in two places: near the neck and near the bottom. This homemade fence is located neck down between the pins installed in the corners. Thus it turns out high bed in the garden.
In the photo, a fence for a garden bed made of plastic bottles A small fence for a garden bed or flower bed can also be made in another way. Dig a trench around the perimeter and bury the bottles in a row with their necks down. The container must be filled to the top with sand in advance. If using bottles different colors or just repaint them, you get a fun fence that improves the mood of owners and passers-by.
Fence from plastic caps with careful and pre-thought-out work, it turns out very beautiful. However, its construction requires a lot of time and effort. First, several thousand caps should be collected. Secondly, in each of them you need to make several holes. Thirdly, all covers should be carefully connected to each other with a wire, adhering to a specific pattern. Everything needs to be done very carefully, and then the fence for giving from plastic covers will turn out to be as attractive as in the photo below.
In the photo, a fence for giving from plastic covers Plastic bottles are an affordable material for building a country fence with your own hands. They are easy to work with, they are not afraid of moisture, resistant to the development of fungus. Plastic does not catch fire, but only melts under the influence of very high temperatures.
The disadvantage of the material is its reaction to temperature changes. In hot weather, plastic bottles are deformed, compressed. In severe frosts, the bottle may crack. Plastic fences are not recognized by admirers organic way land cultivation. Poor quality plastic releases toxic substances, especially under the influence of high temperature.
Glass bottle fence
The glass container fencing is highly aesthetic and will serve the owners for many years. Consider several ways to create such a fence.
1 way
Lay the bottles across the fence wall with their necks facing the yard and connect with mortar. So you get a thick and durable fence. This option looks pretty nice. Pay attention to the photo example.
2 way
Place the bottles across the wall, as in the previous version, only alternating the bottom and neck from the outside. Thus, you can get a certain pattern on the fence. To do this, you need to think in advance about the location of the glass container.
3 way
By stringing glass bottles on a metal rod, you can get a highly decorative fence for a summer residence. To do this, drill a hole in the bottom of each bottle. Having picked up containers of different colors and shapes, you can create a cheerful fence for giving with your own hands. The photo shows how unusual this option looks.
Tire fencing
Not new, but quite popular idea - use to create country fence old tires. They can be laid out around the perimeter of the cottage in a checkerboard pattern or placed vertically and buried in the lower half. In the first option, inside each tire they often arrange bright blooming flower beds. A fence created using the second method will become more attractive if you change its color to a brighter one with the help of paint.
In the photo, the original fence for giving from tires Pallet fence
This option involves the use of fantasy. The first thing to do is to install and concrete the columns around the perimeter. Next, you need to attach pallets to them in the required order. Another option is to dismantle the pallets into separate boards and make a picket fence or other type of fencing.
Pallet fence in the country Fence from branches and vines
It takes a lot of time to create a wicker fence for a summer residence. But a lot of people are ready to sacrifice it for the sake of getting an original and cheap hedge. You will need dry branches or stems of the vine. An interesting fence design will be a great addition to a country-style cottage. The support for such a fence can be made of bars or bars of reinforcement.
A high-quality fence for a summer residence does not always require large financial costs. As can be seen from the photographs, if you purchase inexpensive materials and do the installation yourself, you can get a decent fence without extra costs. With the use of improvised materials, the fence is practically free. Do not forget about the aesthetic side of the issue, because the fences in the country (photos show this) will stand for more than one year, and it’s good if it pleases the eye all the time.
Video: CHEAP FENCE FROM PROFESSIONAL FLOORING
What are weaving plants for garden and garden decor
What is a fence for? What functions does it perform? How important is the quality of the fence to you? Is it possible to install a fence with your own hands. so cheap and beautiful?
One of the main functions of the fence is the protective function and security! Remember how, without having time to acquire your summer cottage, you immediately came up with the idea that it would not hurt to fence yourself in and, thereby, secure your rights to the newly acquired land. The second thought that came to you was a picture of your site, enclosed by a beautiful fence. All sorts of fruits and vegetables, flower beds quietly grew on the site - and all this without the danger of being collected by "night guests", who often make their "ruinous" visits to poorly protected areas.
Your initial wish was very correct! You definitely need to put a strong and reliable fence around your site. Will you be building, or will you be engaged in gardening and horticulture - the fence will protect and keep your valuables from the “envying eyes” and “grabbing hands”.
Once the decision has been made, it's time to take action! But... on modern market Lots of different fences! Some require considerable financial costs, others require certain knowledge, others require experience, and others require a neighbor who has the same ...
This question is not easy to answer! Each fence has its own advantages and disadvantages. We will now try to describe in more detail the most popular fences, so that each of the readers can make a choice for themselves.
By the way, if you, the reader, do not belong to the number of happy owners of fat wallets, then this article will help you decide and put up a fence around your site yourself! This activity is fascinating, during the installation process you will learn many new skills, learn some tricks and subtleties! Self-education is always good! Another reason to raise your self-esteem and test your self-respect! A self-made fence will be proof of your thriftiness.
First of all, fences are solid capital and lattice decorative. Some completely close everything that happens in your yard, while others allow you to see everything, but do not allow inside.
What are the fences in our time?
- Wood;
- From concrete slabs, solid and decorative;
- Plastic;
- Brick;
- Net;
- From corrugated board.
Let's take a closer look at each type of fence and how to install it yourself.
Wooden fences are very popular, they are easy to install and carry out. repair work. Let's get acquainted with the advantages and disadvantages of such a fence.
Advantages of a wooden fence:
Relatively inexpensive;
A wide variety of shapes and models;
Easy to install, even an amateur can handle it.
Flaws:
Requires constant personal care (painting);
Short-lived, service life rarely exceeds 10 years.
To install a wooden fence with your own hands, you will need the following materials and tools:
- Hammer, nails;
- Level;
- Pegs and rope;
- Wooden or metal posts;
- cement mortar;
- Wooden bars 2-2.5 m long;
- Stafetins made of wood of the shape you like;
- Lacquer, drying oil, paint;
- Hinged hinges;
- Latch or lock on the gate.
In order to purchase the material necessary for construction, you can contact any hardware store, where you can choose the shape and dimensions of the blanks you like. The most suitable size for future staples is 85 x 145 mm. This option is less time-consuming, but more costly in finance. If you want to save a little on, then contact the timber warehouse, where they will offer you a cheaper product that requires additional processing - a cut board. True, you will have to tinker with it a little - plan it, go through a grinder - but it will be possible to save a lot.
For columns it is desirable to use metal pipes, channel, but if this is not possible, wood treated with special mixtures will also come off to prevent rapid decay.
Whatever material you purchase, be sure to properly proliferate and dry it! The service life of your wooden fence will depend on this.
- To get started, mark the border along which your fence will pass with the help of a peg and a rope. Pull the rope evenly around the entire perimeter of the future fence.
- Decide where the gate will be located, its dimensions, mark the location of the columns.
- Mark the location of your posts at a distance of 2 - 2.5 m from one another. Dig holes for posts at least 30 cm deep.
- Install and dig in the posts, while be sure to set the posts strictly according to the level - they should stand straight and not fall to one side. If desired and possible, you can concrete the posts, so they will last much longer.
- For each column at the top and bottom, we fasten bars with a cross section of at least 50 x 50 mm with self-tapping screws.
- Between the posts above and below we lay the crossbars and screw them on both sides with self-tapping screws or nails.
- The turn came to the prepared skeleton to nail the crossbars. The distance between the staples can be at least 1.5-2 cm, however, if you want to make this wooden fence solid, nail one board close to the other.
- When your fence is already fully installed, you should start painting it. To do this, process everything again wooden elements fence with drying oil, and after it dries with varnish or paint.
For a richer color and to enhance protection from natural elements, paint over the fence 2-3 times. This will extend its service life.
Video: Overview of fences. Homemade wooden fences
Concrete decorative fence V last decade gained immense popularity. The reason for the increase in popularity was the invention of collapsible structures that are convenient for transportation and installation. Designers have improved these concrete structures and filled the markets with all sorts of models of such fences. Such fences are ideal for both industrial enterprises and the private sector (houses, summer cottages).
Advantages of a concrete fence
- unpretentious;
- Long service life - more than 100 years;
- Easy and quick to assemble;
- Affordable price;
- Variety of models.
The disadvantages of such a fence:
- It is difficult to carry out all the operations for assembling the fence on your own; during delivery and installation, you will definitely need the help of 2-3 people.
Types of concrete fences:
Sectional typesetting - widely used for fencing private houses, they are diverse. They are assembled from small sections that are inserted into the grooves of the posts. Everyone can choose for themselves the height of the fence and a certain model. There are openwork sections, lattice and solid. 2-3 people are enough for assembly;
Self-standing - more often used for fencing industrial facilities, they are a huge solid wall, with a large ornament. Such a fence completely hides from prying eyes everything that is on the other side of it. The peculiarity of an independent fence is that each section has its own support and does not need poles at all. The downside is that when installing and dismantling it, you can’t do without a crane.
Having decided to install just such a fence on your site, take care of airing the site. If you decide to fence yourself tightly, then the entire ecosystem of your garden may suffer from such a decision. Without regular ventilation, the soil becomes acidic, overgrown with mosses, and trees begin to rot. The situation will be saved by several lattice or openwork sections.
Marking the future fence with rope and stakes will help you clearly define the scope of work, calculate the required number of sections, and mark the places for future posts. Each section is 200 cm long, so the distance from one post to another will be 205 cm. Mark the place for the posts with stakes, and use a rope to check how even your fence will stand.
Unloading building materials. Sections of concrete fencing have a weight of about 70 kg. The pole itself weighs 90 kg. When unloading, it will be very important for you to take this into account and take measures to facilitate the stacking process. If you lay out sections and posts along the entire working area (future fence), then you will significantly reduce both installation time and physical activity.
Installing columns. This system does not require foundation pouring. Initially, the very first pillar and the very last are installed. After that, they dig in all the subsequent ones, strictly in the intended places. If the terrain is uneven, then the height can be adjusted using the height of the posts.
Sections are installed in special grooves located on each column. The lowest layer from below can be overlaid with roofing material.
If desired, the finished sectional fence can be painted in any color using special compositions for facades for painting.
Despite their high cost, brick fences are still very popular. A very large assortment of bricks encourages the construction of more and more new designs that emphasize the dignity of each brick.
Advantages of brick fences
- Strength;
- Reliability;
- Durability;
- Fire resistance;
- Beauty;
- Fundamentality.
Now it is customary to select a brick for a fence, under the brick from which the house is made - one complements the other! The fence can be solid and with forging elements, gratings - everything is at your discretion.
How to start installation?
Make a drawing of the fence (albeit a primitive one), this will help calculate the required amount of building materials. Mark on the plan with dots the places of the columns. Mark the location of the fence on the site. Using a cord and stakes, mark the places of the posts. Do not forget to also mark out a place for a future gate and gate! Carefully measure all corners, each corner must be exactly 90 degrees!
The foundation is the foundation of your fence. The more correctly you put it, the more stable and stronger your fence will be. Initially, you should dig a trench under the foundation. For strip foundation a trench with a depth of at least 40-50 cm is ideal. But the higher the fence, the deeper and wider the foundation should be laid. IMPORTANT: pour the foundation all at once, otherwise the joints will crack and the structure will not be so strong.
Before pouring concrete into the trench, you should prepare a place for the foundation - lay the so-called "bed". For her, sand must first be poured into the bottom of the trench, then gravel, everything should be carefully poured with water from the hose and tamped well. After that, make the formwork, lay the reinforcement. Fill the formwork with concrete, monitor the level. We give the foundation to dry well and acquire the necessary strength. After a week, the formwork is allowed to be removed.
Brick fence. On top of the foundation, be sure to lay a layer of roofing material, it is fixed with liquid glass and cement mortar. Every 2 - 2.5 m we lay out pillars 25x25 cm. Between the pillars a plinth 50 cm high and 25 cm thick is laid, above - the usual masonry in one or half a brick. For a fence, laying in one brick will be sufficient. But if you are laying a high fence, it is best to lay it in two rows. At your discretion, lay out openwork, single-row or combined masonry. When laying, be sure to monitor the level! At the end of the masonry, do the jointing, observing its width of 5-6 mm.
Video: brick fences do it yourself
Chain-link fences - cheap and beautiful!
The cheapest fence! Even a beginner can handle the installation! All installation work can be done in one day.
The advantages of such a fence:
Provides ventilation of the area;
Durability - service life up to 30 years;
Profitability - saving time, saving on labor.
Minuses:
The whole area is well visible;
1. Mark your site, use stakes and cord to mark the future location of the posts and grid;
2. Dig holes for the posts. The columns can be both metal and concrete, in the most simplified versions, wooden ones will do.
3. Depending on the soil, take care to strengthen the posts. If the soil is dense, reliable, it will be enough just to dig a column into it to a depth of 60-70 cm, but if there are any features, be sure to prepare holes. Pour sand to the bottom first, and then gravel, insert a column at a right angle (using a level) and fill it with a cement solution.
4. Stretch the net and attach it to the posts. The chain-link can be attached to wooden posts with nails, wire. But you need to attach the chain-link to metal and concrete with special fasteners. However, the most popular type of attachment to any poles is the same wire.
5. With the help of a reinforcing wire stretched between the cells of the grid, it is necessary to properly stretch the grid, to prevent it from sagging. It is recommended to stretch the reinforcing wire both above and below the mesh.
6. To protect the chain-link from metal corrosion, it is necessary to paint the mesh cells well with any oil paint on drying oil.
Do-it-yourself fence from corrugated board - an inexpensive option
Fences made of corrugated board are also very popular. A large assortment metal profiles and a huge range of colors contributes to this. If you have building materials and the necessary tools, the work will not take much time and effort.
- Sheets of corrugated board;
- metal poles;
- Cross logs (2-3 pieces for each section);
- Screwdriver;
- self-tapping screws;
- Level;
- Welding machine;
- Sand;
- Gravel;
- cement mortar.
Front of work:
Always and everywhere, when installing any fence, you need to mark the location of the fence itself and the posts, as well as the presence of a gate and a gate.
Under the posts, drill or dig holes 1-1.2 m deep.
Using sand, gravel and water, prepare a pillow for each post. The height of such a pillow should be about 25 cm.
Install the prepared metal posts with a section of 50x50mm into the drilled holes directly on the gravel pad. Align the posts with a level and fill their base with cement mortar.
Using self-tapping screws, attach sheets of corrugated board to the resulting frame. But the best option for attaching corrugated board to the joists will be special riveting for metal. Using them, you will protect your brand new fence from intruders.
Installation of a fence from corrugated board, quickly and inexpensively
After reading this article, I hope you have a plan for arranging your particular site and you were finally able to make the right decision regarding the material for your future fence! Why did you need to write this article.
Wooden fences undeservedly faded into the background. And absolutely in vain! Of course, in terms of stability and reliability, the fence made of boards significantly loses to its brick and concrete counterparts, but a minimum of time, effort and money is spent on the construction of a wooden fence.
At the same time, you can handle all the necessary activities on your own. By showing a little imagination and doing everything according to the instructions, you will create a truly original and interesting design.
What to build a fence from?
Before proceeding with the construction, we pay due attention to the choice of source material. For the arrangement of the fence we use only high-quality dense wood. The wood of oak, aspen, ash, Siberian larch, alder, mulberry is perfect.
Among all the listed options, the most interesting is the Siberian larch. A fence built from it will serve as long as possible. If one of the main enemies of most wood species is moisture, then larch only becomes stronger from contact with water.
The use of pine is limited only by the arrangement of the fence shield, in case of breakage or wear of the fence, such material can be replaced without much financial cost and effort.
Picket fence - pine Important! And in no case do we use birch for the construction of the fence - it is extremely unstable and short-lived.
It is also important to choose a quality material for the manufacture of supports. With wooden spans, wooden poles will be best combined. You can either dig them into the ground or attach them to special metal stands (consoles) concreted in pre-created recesses.
Important! To prolong the life of wood, it must first be impregnated. It will reduce the intensity of the harmful effects of moisture, air, fungus and other harmful microorganisms on the building material.
To fix the effect, it is recommended to treat the wood with a special dye, for example, Swedish paint. It will give the material a very beautiful shade. If desired, a dye of a different color can be applied over the dried Swedish paint.
To prepare Swedish paint, we need:
- blue vitriol- 250 g;
- salt - 250 g;
- iron minium - 250 g;
- drying oil - 230 ml;
- flour - 570 g;
- water - about 4.5 liters.
Following the given proportions, you can prepare any required amount of dye.
The paint is quite economical. About 200-250 ml of dye is spent on covering 1 m 2 of the surface. The above recipe allows you to prepare the paint golden color. If you want to get a different shade, replace the minium with manganese peroxide, ocher, or another component of your choice.
Swedish paint is prepared in the following order:
- paste is cooked. To prepare it, stir the flour in 3 liters of water;
- the finished paste is passed through a sieve - this allows you to remove lumps from the mixture;
- strained paste is again put on fire. Salt and copper sulfate are added to the mixture. Constantly stir the mixture, achieving complete dissolution of vitriol;
- while continuing to stir the paste, add drying oil to it, and then pour in a certain amount of water (usually about 1.5 l) until a homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.
We apply the finished paint to the wood in a double layer.
Table. How to paint a wooden fence
| Paints | Binder | Life time |
|---|---|---|
| Acrylic | Polyacrylate | 6-20 years old |
| Water dispersion | organic solvents | >20 years |
| Oily | Drying oil | 2-3 years |
| silicate | liquid incandescent glass | 20 years |
| Silicone | silicone resin | 20 years |
| Enamel | Alkyd resin | 10 years |
For example, you can assemble a fence according to the wattle principle. Boards are attached in a bent state. Trying to straighten up, they will fit snugly enough against the supporting pillars.
Another great option– filling the space between the supports wooden siding. We fasten the sheathing boards, starting from the bottom, withstanding a 25 mm overlap.
The fences made in the form of blinds look no less original. By laying the boards with a downward slope towards the street, you will create an invisible fence that is resistant to wind loads.
Also, the boards can be nailed from the end. To perform the highest quality sheathing, we first make markings on each rack.
In the case of installing metal poles, they can be hidden by sheathing the racks on both sides. From above, we close the metal supports with wooden plugs.
If desired, you can make the fence more original and on wooden support posts. We make inclined grooves in the supports, and then insert the ends of the lamellas into them. Additionally, we fasten each bar with self-tapping screws. To hide the attachment points, we close the screws with wooden plates. We crown the upper part of the supports with plugs.
To make the fence look more original and modern, we can fill the boards with a small gap (up to 15 mm). At the same time, the narrower the boards will be (of course, within reasonable limits), the more interesting the design of the fence will turn out.
You can also use boards of different widths. When choosing this sheathing method, be sure to make sure that the pattern on adjacent sections matches.
There are a lot of options for decorating wood. Choose the one you like and start building the fence. You already have all the knowledge necessary for this.
Prices for different types of building boards
Building boards
Successful work!
Video - DIY wooden fence
Decorative fence with your own hands. Photo
The cheapest fence for a summer residence is one that is made from materials left over from the time of construction, or simply lie idle. In this case, their initial cost is no longer important, and the labor costs will pay off in any case. For example, if there is an outcrop of rock in the vicinity, and cement and sand remain after the construction of the house, then you can build the most expensive type of fence - from natural stone. Or the second option - a fence made of scraps of logs cut down on a tree plot
The fence of the site can be built in such a way in an unusual way Source 990.md
But these are more special cases - usually you have to buy materials or order a “turnkey fence”.
Features of a country fence
There are certain restrictions on the height and nature of the fence between adjacent sections. The fence should not cast a solid shadow and be higher than 1.5 meters. Although in practice this is not always the case. But it is precisely such requirements that make this part of the fence inexpensive in terms of the cost of materials. Everyone can build a relatively affordable fence to the country, options for materials used for these purposes:
- Rabitz;
- wooden fence (picket);
- welded sections from rolled metal.
For the part that protects the summer cottage from the "street", the choice of materials is greater, including those listed above. But such a “transparent” fence has rather poor protective functions, especially from prying eyes, wind and dust. Therefore, such a fence to the country house is used in combination with a hedge - shrubs or climbing plants.
Translucent fence made of mesh and climbing plants Source plodogorod.com
If a "deaf" and cheap fence is needed along the front border of the site, then boards or corrugated boards are chosen as materials. Thus, you can build a fence with your own hands cheaply and beautifully.
wooden fences
You can build the cheapest fence out of wood. At right choice and timely care wooden fences will last at least 10 years. Moreover, this statement mainly applies to pillars, and if they are made from steel pipe with an anti-corrosion coating, then we can talk about at least twenty years of service. And, importantly, there are different types of fences for giving from this material.
Usually fence, or a fence board, is the easiest option wooden fence from edged lumber. But the protective functions of the fence are low, as is its cost. An unedged board fence only marks the boundary of the site, and its decorative qualities depend solely on the method of trimming the upper part of the rails and the color of the paint.
Although, if desired, a fence from an ordinary picket fence can also be made attractive Source rozetka.com.ua
There are also “full-fledged” fences made of wooden picket fences, which are distinguished by higher reliability and a degree of protection against penetration into the site. Moreover, such a fence can even be "deaf", if you use double padding of fence boards- from the front and the inside.
Deaf fence made of slats Source yandex.com
traditional look decorative fencing from a thin rail source seattlehelpers.org
Rack fence also allows you to make and section decoration as decorative panel. And at first glance, a cheap fence will no longer look very cheap.
You can also assemble this type of fence, but this is clearly not a budget option. Source vekzabora.ru
And they look very original. "wicker" fences from a wooden slat.
And this is what a modern interpretation of wattle looks like Source yandex.kz
Edged board fence can be both deaf and "perforated". In the first case, the boards on the veins are stuffed end-to-end or on both sides (alternately from the front and the inside).
In the second case, the scheme of stuffing the board on the cross members of the spans is similar to a picket fence. To some extent, they are even similar, but this option is more “solid”.
Edged board fence - reliability and solidity Source imagesait.ru
If horizontal direction wooden reiki for a picket fence - this is a rarity, then for an edged board such a solution is more common. Perhaps this is the cheapest fence for giving, but it looks pretty nice.
This sheathing of the span makes it look like a wall of a house. Source navesi-vorota.kiev.ua
And in a separate category can be taken out wooden fence blinds. This type of fence resembles a wall lined with planken. The principle of the location of the board (or slats) is the same - at an angle to the vertical plane with an overhang on the front side of the top panel above the bottom.
This type of fence has appeared recently, but is already popular. Source domvpavlino.ru
Blinds Fence Matches positive sides solid and "perforated" spans:
- the territory is protected from prying eyes;
- the direct impact of the wind, the penetration of dust and dirt from the street is reduced;
- the site is ventilated, so excess moisture from the soil will soon evaporate;
- the shadow from the fence is not so “thick” and “undersized” plants can be planted nearby.
Video description
An example of fences from other materials in the video:
Another type of wooden horizontal fence - fencing using a block house. This type of cladding panel is thick enough to withstand severe mechanical stress. A decorative properties panels fit perfectly into the rural landscape, especially if the house is built of logs, lined with a block house or siding with a similar profile.
Block house, one of the most unusual finishing materials, looks great as a fence Source svoidomstroim.ru
Of course, this is not the cheapest fence - according to this characteristic, the block house does not lag behind most types of planed lumber fences.
Budget fences from improvised materials
First of all, it must be understood here that not all materials at hand can be “legal”. Often seen as a cheap fence example wattle fence or palisade made from twigs or poles felled in the planting or neighboring forest. Now fences are often chosen from pallets remaining after construction. In a word, if you need an affordable fence to the country, there are many options.
Such a purely rustic fence can serve as a reason for administrative punishment Source jtcase.ru
But in this case, you can wait for the police to visit, since illegal felling of trees and shrubs (even lianas) is punishable by both administrative and criminal codes. For individuals a small fine - 4-5 thousand rubles. But this is if they do not find signs of a criminal act. If found, the fine starts from 100 thousand rubles. Moreover, if such a fence is bought, and its wood is obtained illegally, then the buyer will also be fined.
And if the purchase of a ready-made wicker fence can be considered an affordable option, then log fence into the category budget fence no longer hits.
A log palisade turns a house into a fortress, but it comes at a hefty price Source stroykauglich.ru
The most inexpensive material is slab. It refers to lumber production waste, but this does not mean that anyone is suitable for a hedge. It is divided into two classes: wood and business. And for the construction of the fence, you need to choose only the second option, as it is thicker and more uniform in section geometry. Moreover, selection must be carried out both in terms of the quality of wood (lack of rot), and in terms of uniformity in size - it is advisable to select plates of approximately the same width and thickness. If there is a suspicion of infection with a bark beetle, then the croaker must be sanded and treated with an appropriate solution - so as not to infect the trees on the site.
Such a hedge will be the cheapest among all, and in a rural landscape it is quite appropriate Source pinterest.ru
The second in terms of cost of materials is considered Not edged board . It makes affordable, but attractive wooden fences for summer cottages. And here there are nuances of choice - it is better to use a wide format.
A vertical fence made of such a board is mounted with an overlap, with alternating alternating "front" and "wrong" sides
And this fence of the site naturally looks in the countryside. source seattlehelpers.org
For horizontal fences, the location of the plates is more diverse. For example, it could be "volumetric" installation of the board around the beam in the center of the span.
If you show imagination, then from an ordinary unedged board you can make an original fence for the site Source music4good.ru
Fastening the board "herringbone" carried out by analogy with the installation of siding.
Another design of a blank fence made of unedged boards Source stroyholl.ru
There is also such an inexpensive option for materials for the fence - pallets. More precisely, euro pallets. For their production, a fairly high-quality edged board is used, from which enterprising people even make furniture. And not only garden, but also for residential premises with an interior in the style of a loft or rustic.
The euro pallet can be used as a source of "raw material". That is, disassemble it into boards, and make an ordinary vertical fence out of them. Or build a horizontal fence, borrowing from the pallet not only boards, but also the very idea of a “two-row” three-dimensional structure.
Both the fence and the flower bed Source www.sazhaemsad.ru
There are options when pallet practically unchanged goes to the manufacture of spans low fences.
Such a fence is perfect for a front palisade. Source pinterest.es
Metal inexpensive fences
In this category, the cheapest fences for summer cottages are made from mesh netting. Their seeming unreliability is deceptive - it is impossible to climb over them, and in order to unauthorizedly enter the site, you must use at least metal shears. When choosing what to make a fence from, you should not discard this option.
Mesh chain-link - the leader among metal fences for cottages Source ethanvizitei.com
This also includes fences with spans of welded construction mesh , which is even stronger due to the greater thickness of the wire.
Welded mesh fences are one of the easiest to manufacture Source zabornik.ru
There are quite a few manufacturers of turnkey sectional fences using welded mesh as a basis. And in the most simple options it is not even attached to the frame from the corner. For fastening, special clamps are used, selected for the section of the profile pipe, from which the fence posts are made.
And this is the most affordable option metallic sectional fence source seattlehelpers.org
And the next stage in the evolution of welded mesh as a material for fencing a site is gabions. IN landscape design wire baskets, filled with natural stone, are usually used as retaining walls. They also found application for the construction of a fence with "blind" spans. This design is more accessible than a stone fence, especially since the gabion does not need a foundation, and if necessary, it can be disassembled and moved to another location.
Gabion fence - a union of metal and stone Source ru.pinterest.com
Another inexpensive option is welded fences. from smooth reinforcement or square bar.
Welded fence made of smooth reinforcement - simple and elegant Source remex-tver.ru
And if you need to close the site from the street with a solid fence with high resistance to burglary, then wall profiled sheet in the category not expensive materials there are no competitors.
Professional sheet - reliability and safety of the site for little money Source zabory.dp.ua
Video description
And a few more options for beautiful fences on the video:
Conclusion
The final cost of the fence is affected not only by the materials of the span, but also by its nature. Solid fences are strongly influenced by wind loads, so the supports for them must be more reliable than for through spans. And the calculation of their number and size of the underground part has the same algorithm as that of a pile or monolithic foundation. Therefore, a cheap but solid fence can end up costing more than its competitor made of more expensive materials that are freely blown by the wind.
In this article: on what criteria does the choice of the type of fencing depend; characteristics of materials used in the construction of fences; how to make wattle on your own; how to build a slab fence; chain-link fence - self-construction.
Creating a fence around the perimeter of a summer cottage is a task of paramount importance. Moreover, it is necessary to fence the site before the stage of construction of the cottage building, otherwise the material values located on its territory will be regularly plundered. The fence can be lattice (not solid) and deaf (solid), formed by shrubs, wood, plastic, metal and stone materials, or combinations thereof. The role of the fence in ensuring the safety of the dacha landscape is difficult to overestimate - in this article we will consider ways to build country fences from different materials, taking into account the standards and requirements in force on the territory of the Russian Federation.
Fence Type - Selection Criteria
The territories of neighboring summer cottages, as a rule, are adjacent to each other and the fence between them serves not only as a fence, but also to define the boundaries between the plots. According to the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97, fences separating adjacent suburban areas cannot be solid (deaf) and have a height of more than 1500 mm. Thus, fences for summer cottages can be solid only in that part of the site that faces the street. However, the requirement of this SNiP regarding the height and translucency of the fence sheathing between adjacent dacha areas can be legally circumvented, although not without some losses - more on that at the end of the article.
Structurally, any fence consists of load-bearing structures and sheathing. Bearing structures fences are vertical pillars of supports fixed in the ground and horizontal runs (spans) to which sheathing elements, a gate and a gate are attached. The materials used for fence sheathing can be very different - stone, wood, metal or plastic. The choice of the type of fence and structural materials for its construction depends on the following "local" factors:
- Soil characteristics. How dusty or heaving these soils depends on their ability to hold the fence supports, the power and deepening of the foundation. The more open the terrain is, the stronger the seasonal winds, the greater the wind load the fence sheathing will experience. In flat areas with strong winds, it is required either to install fence supports on a strong foundation, or to sheathe the spans sparsely, leaving gaps between the sheathing elements. In both cases, the distance between the supports must be less than usual (less than 2500 mm).
- Styling of the suburban area. External design fencing should not be discordant with the style of the dacha - if the owner attaches security issues great importance and intends to install metal or stone fence, then it is worth planting climbing plants at least from its inside.
Before building high fences with blank sheathing, it should be borne in mind that it will be impossible to track events behind them visually - only a video surveillance system can solve this problem.
Characteristics of materials used in the construction of fences
Wood is traditionally used for fencing territories - it is cheap and affordable for summer residents. Positive characteristics of a wooden fence:
- simple installation, there is no need to attract special equipment;
- the deaf cladding of a wooden fence reliably protects against noise from adjacent territories and dust, and prevents observation from the outside;
- wood has high environmental safety characteristics;
- sparse fence sheathing will reduce wind speed, deaf - completely protect against it;
- has high aesthetic characteristics, which allows you to combine wood with any other materials without compromising the overall style.
Negative characteristics of wooden fencing:
- flammable material;
- alternating temperatures of cold and warm seasons have a destructive effect on it;
- needs protection from moisture, requires periodic painting;
- the maximum service life will not exceed 10 years.
The most popular metal fences are chain-link mesh, corrugated board. The characteristics and procedure for building fences from corrugated board are described in detail in one of our articles, and now we will analyze the characteristics of fences from chain-link mesh.
Positive characteristics:
- service life of about 20 years;
- simple installation, which allows for short term fence large areas;
- permeable to sunlight (does not give a shadow) and at the same time serves as an insurmountable barrier for animals;
- incombustible material.
Negative characteristics:
- does not provide protection from sounds, dust and wind;
- is not an obstacle to visual observation by outsiders;
- low ability to prevent the penetration of intruders;
- chain-link mesh not galvanized and not covered with PVC is subject to corrosion;
- according to ecologists, the gradual washing away of the zinc layer from the galvanized chain-link mesh by rain causes soil contamination;
- in case of poor quality chemical composition polyvinyl chloride cladding, it will not withstand several alternations of cold and warm seasons- peel off.
In addition to the metal fences described above, metal sectional and forged fences are produced, the elements of which are connected by welding.
Positive characteristics of sectional metal fences:
- service life of 15 years;
- impact strength, elasticity;
- light transmission with high protective properties against the penetration of strangers;
- incombustibility;
- diversity design solutions.
Negative characteristics:
- unable to withstand wind, noise and dust;
- are not an obstacle for an outside observer;
- anti-corrosion treatment of welded joints is required;
- self-assembly, due to the need for welding, is difficult - it requires the involvement of professionals.
Among metal fences, forged fences stand apart - this is a kind of indicator of the well-being of the owner of the cottage.
Positive characteristics of forged fences:
- with timely painting will last about 50 years;
- their elements and connections between them are strong, they will create a reliable barrier for intruders;
- light transmission, almost complete absence of shadow;
- allow the implementation of complex design solutions;
- do not burn.
Their negative characteristics:
- do not create barriers to wind, dust and noise;
- have a high cost;
- permeable to outside observation;
- creation and installation require the involvement of professionals;
- susceptible to corrosion.
Stone fences can be created from natural (natural) stone and from artificial, for example, bricks or concrete blocks.
Advantages of stone fences:
- service life of at least 50 years;
- high strength;
- excellent decorative characteristics;
- resistance to temperature extremes and moisture;
- reliable protection fenced area from external noise, wind and dust. They create an insurmountable barrier for intruders, both when monitoring the inhabitants of the cottage, and when trying to penetrate its territory.
Disadvantages of stone fences:
- require laying a heavy foundation;
- lengthy installation work, it is necessary to involve specialists;
- significant labor intensity of work;
- the high cost of structural material and significant costs for its delivery to the dacha.
Do-it-yourself wattle in the country
Compared to any other types of fences, the material for creating a wattle fence practically does not require expenses - it is only cheaper to do without a fence. However, it will last no more than 3-4 years and will provide the owners with more decorative fence than really capable of resisting anyone.
The design of the wattle fence is no different from the construction of any fence - you need wooden or metal supports and flexible rods for sheathing. wooden racks supports are made of pine with a diameter of 50 mm, willow and hazel branches are most suitable for sheathing, in the absence of which branches of alder, birch or aspen can be used.
The preparation of rods for wattle sheathing is carried out in late autumn or early spring - straight and even rods are selected with a thickness at the butt (place of cut from the tree trunk) of at least 30 mm, a length of 1500 mm or more. Before harvesting the rods, it is necessary to check the branches of a tree or bush for a break by cutting off one rod and inspecting the place of the cut.
If the core of the branch is very large and has a reddish-brown hue, then the rods from this tree are not suitable for sheathing wattle - they will break during laying between the supports. Therefore, we move on to the next tree and evaluate the core of the rod cut from it - only those branches are suitable, the core of which will be very small, barely noticeable. Having found a suitable material for creating a wattle fence, we cut off branches that are even, of a suitable diameter and length, without damage, any growths and knots.
The cut rods need to be dried for several hours, then the bark should be removed from them - if they were cut in the spring, then it will be easier to debark them, but if in the fall, then it will be necessary to soak them in water first. For soaking, you need to tie the rods with a rope into a bundle and immerse them in running water (stream, river), placing a load on top. It is possible to soak in stagnant water, using a container of sufficient size for this, however, it will be necessary to change the water in it daily. Soaking time: 7-14 days.
The debarking of rods is carried out with the help of a special tool - a pinch. To create it, it is necessary to drive two thick nails or metal rods close to each other into a wooden base 1/3 of the length. Then the driven nails must be wrapped with wire to a height of 50-70 mm, starting from the point of their junction with a wooden base and moving up, while the turns should fit as closely as possible to each other. The parts of the nails free from the wire must be parted like a slingshot and the pinch is ready.
For debarking, each rod is placed with its butt side in the slingshot of the pinch, pressed against it with the left hand, and with the right hand stretched towards itself - a well-soaked bark will be removed from the rod like a peel from a banana. Having sorted the rods after removing the bark by thickness and length, we proceed to the construction of the wattle fence.
First of all, we arm ourselves with a tape measure, pegs and twine - we mark the position of the future wattle fence and the points where the supports will be installed (pegs are driven into them). The usual distance between the supports is 350 mm, no more.
If metal racks are used in this capacity, then you can safely hammer them in marked places to a depth of 300 mm, having previously prepared holes in the ground with a crowbar and a sledgehammer. If the supports are wooden, then you will need to prepare the stakes themselves and their placement. The lower part of the stakes intended for wattle supports are sharpened and smeared with heated resin or several layers of Kuzbass varnish in a segment slightly exceeding the depth to which they will be driven into the ground. However, this measure will not increase the service life of the wicker fence much, more effective measures- a trench 500-600 mm deep is torn off along the wattle fence placement line and covered with sand, followed by tamping. The sand will provide drainage and wick moisture away from the wooden poles, thereby extending their lifespan. It must be borne in mind that the sand backfill will not hold the wattle racks well and therefore they will have to be hammered to a depth of at least half a meter - the wooden stakes must be long enough so that it is enough to dive into the sand backfill and build the wattle fence. The optimal length of the stakes: 2000-2300 mm, i.e. above ground level, it will be possible to put a wattle fence with a height of 1500-1800 mm.
To drive in wooden stakes and then place the sheathing rods between them, you need a wooden or rubber mallet - a metal hammer will break the wood. The supports placed along the edges of the wattle fence must be set at a short distance from the racks located nearby - they will serve as a lock for the ends of the rods.
Before weaving the wattle sheathing, the rods should be soaked in water for a day or two, which will make them more flexible. To fasten the rods, prepare an annealed copper wire- annealing will completely remove the braid from it and make the copper more flexible.
Weaving is performed from the bottom up - the butt of the first rod is pressed right hand to the extreme stand of the support, with the left hand the rod is circled along the second stand and led out beyond the third. The next (second) rod is wound up behind the first support with the top (thinner end), held by the right hand, with the help of the left hand we circle the second rack and bring it to the third. The alternation of butts and tops will reduce the number of gaps between the rods, avoid the slope of the intertwined rods to one side of the fence.
To make the rods fit snugly together when weaving, we knock them down with a mallet. The ends of the rods are attached to the posts with annealed wire. If there is such an opportunity, when weaving, bring the ends of the rods 100-150 mm beyond the extreme supports, which will allow them to be evenly trimmed with a saw at the end of weaving.
To protect the ends of the supports from getting wet during rains, you need to equip them with conical galvanized caps or put glass bottles on them - classic perfect solution in putting on racks of clay jars, but where can you get them now. When using metal tubes under the racks, wooden plugs should be hammered into their upper ends.
Fence for giving from a croaker
At its core, the slab is a waste on any sawmill, like shavings with wood chips. Hence and low cost cubic meters - about 700 rubles. Meanwhile, this outwardly unsightly material retains all the attractiveness of wood, which allows you to create from it both a pretty and cheap fence for a summer residence.
It is worth starting work on creating a fence with the debarking of a croaker - if the bark is left, the fence will be hit by a bark beetle and will quickly collapse. Removing the bark is not an easy task, it requires a special tool, namely a flat shovel with a sharply sharpened blade (a horizontal handle 120-150 mm long must be nailed to the end of its handle - it will be easier to work), a small carpenter's ax and a scraper. After removing the bark from the croaker, it is necessary to sand its surfaces and cover it with two or three layers of antiseptic.
Support posts for a slab fence can be metal or wooden. Under the metal fence posts, you will need a pipe with a diameter of 76 mm and a wall thickness of 3.5 mm, with welded plates for attaching horizontally located wooden girders - it is easiest to use the same slab sawn lengthwise as them.
Wooden fence posts are made of oak, larch or, if the best options not available, from pine - trunk diameter 200 mm, length 2300 mm. The side of the pillars, on which they will be placed in the ground, is covered with hot resin or Kuzbass varnish in several layers.
If the runs will be made from a slab, then the distance between the fence supports depends on its length, usually it is 2000-2500 mm. On loamy soils, wooden and metal poles are simply driven into the ground without additional strengthening measures; at their installation sites, you only need to drill holes with a drill (it is more convenient to use not a garden drill, but one designed winter fishing, it is more efficient) and hammer the poles with a sledgehammer, after placing some flat board on the end.
Sandy and chernozem soils will require great effort - it is necessary to dig a hole under each post 600 mm deep, twice as wide as the diameter of the post. Then pour a 100 mm layer of gravel on the bottom of the pit, tamp it down, put a pole in its center, fill in gravel around the perimeter, align vertical position pillar with a plumb line and a building level, after setting the pillar, compact the gravel tightly.
Sheathing the fence with a slab is performed horizontally or vertically. In the first case, it will be necessary to attach a 50x30 mm timber to the support posts on both sides and attach the slab to it with an overlap on nails or self-tapping screws - it will not be possible to fit the slabs end-to-end, a waste of time.
For vertical cladding of the fence, the slab must be sawn along, first the sawn slab is fixed to the girders with the convex side inward, leaving 40-50 mm gaps between it, then close them with the slab placed with the convex side out. For a longer service life, the finished slab fence must be varnished or painted, the ends of the pillars should be closed with plastic or metal cones - it will last about 10 years as a dacha fence.
Do-it-yourself chain-link fence
In terms of its popularity as a sheathing for fences in suburban areas, the chain-link mesh is unrivaled, because it meets the requirements for light transmission, reliability of the fence and service life. Today, the market offers non-galvanized, galvanized and plastic-coated chain-link mesh - the first option disappears immediately, because its service life is minimal due to the lack of corrosion protection. The chain-link mesh lined with PVC is intended primarily for building fences in warm climatic zones and on the sea coast - plastic provides protection from atmospheric moisture and high decorative properties of the fence itself, but is not able to withstand seasonal changes in high and low temperatures. still optimal solution remains galvanized wire mesh.
The creation of a chain-link fence begins with marking the position of the posts, there will be two types of them - intermediate and tension. The first are usually installed in increments of 3,000 mm, the second - every 9,000 mm. As pillars, it is better to use metal profiled racks, pipes with a diameter of 60 mm or more and corners with a shelf of 50 mm or more are suitable. The length of the intermediate posts for a grid with a height of 1.8 m should be 2.3 m, the tension posts are longer - 2.5 m.
Pits 400 mm deep are drilled under intermediate poles in the ground with a drill, a pit 600 mm deep is required for tension poles. On loams and clays, concreting pillars will be meaningless, because heaving soil will push out concrete base together with a pillar in the cold season - it is better either not to concrete, or to tear off a hole below the freezing depth. If the soil is sandstone or light loam, then the bases of the pillars are concreted.
After installation in place, the tension poles in the corners of the future fence are connected to neighboring poles by descending diagonal supports of 25 or 32 metal corner- the connection is made by welding or bolts. In principle, for attaching the chain-link mesh, the exposed pillars will be enough even at a 3-meter distance, its canvas will not sag between them, however, such a fence is unreliable - it will be easy to lift the lower part of its sheathing and penetrate into the fenced area. Therefore, we need a wire rod with a diameter of 3 mm, which will be passed through the cells of the chain-link mesh at three horizontal levels and will keep its web from sagging and shifting. In order to stretch the wire rod between the posts, in each of them it is necessary to drill three through holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm (the positions of the holes for the chain-link mesh 1.8 m high are considered) - the first is 30 mm from ground level, the second is 900 mm above the first, the last hole 850 mm above the second.
We proceed to fixing the chain-link mesh on the poles - we place its roll vertically near the support post, make sure that the bent ends of the lines are on the upper side of the roll, if this is not the case, we turn it over. Then we hook the top line of the chain-link mesh to the top of the post and, gradually unwinding the roll, we move to the next post. Having placed the mesh canvas between two adjacent pillars, we pass a wire rod through its cells at three levels - at the upper point of the mesh-netting, the wire rod is pulled through every second cell from above. Having passed the wire rod through the entire length of the chain-link mesh between adjacent posts, its ends are inserted into the prepared holes, the wire is pulled and fixed on the posts with tension bolts.
Since the length of the chain-link mesh rolled into a roll is most often insufficient to completely cover the perimeter of the fence, it will be necessary to splice the edges of the web from one roll with the web from another. To do this, unscrew the extreme vertical wire from one sheet of the chain-link mesh, overlap the edges of the unwound sheet from both rolls and screw the previously removed wire back between the cells, stitching the two sheets together.
As promised at the beginning of the article, we will answer the question - how to legal grounds to put a deaf high fence between neighboring suburban areas? According to the rules of SP 11-106-97, clause 6.12, an apiary is allowed on a summer cottage (garden) plot, provided that neighboring plots are separated by a blind fence with a height of at least 2000 mm, the perimeter of which deviates from the dividing boundaries between plots of at least two meters. That is, you can build a deaf and high fence if you wish and have at least one hive with bees, but you have to sacrifice 2 meters of your summer cottage on each side, where your summer cottage borders on the neighboring one - the option is also not very profitable, it’s easier to put up a one and a half meter fence made of chain-link mesh and plant some climbing plants along it - wild grapes, ivy, hops, honeysuckle or budley.
