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What is remontant strawberry and how to grow it. All about remontant strawberries, rules for care and reproduction The difference between remontant strawberries and ordinary strawberries

Remontant varieties give us the opportunity to significantly extend the berry harvest season. Unfortunately, only some berry crops are available to us in this advantageous option. So what is a remontant variety, what are its advantages, are there any disadvantages?

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What is a remontant variety?

Remontant varieties have an important advantage - they bear fruit not only in summer period, but also in autumn, and the first harvest can be obtained already in the year after planting. What makes this happen? Not remontant varieties flower buds are laid during a reduced daylight hours (at the beginning of autumn, when the day length is 10-12 hours, and the night temperature drops to 5-8 degrees). Their rudimentary inflorescence is formed around the beginning of October, and the dormant period lasts until spring. Flower buds in remontant plants are laid in the middle of summer (around the end of July), when daylight hours are 16-17 hours. They develop quite quickly (in 2-3 weeks) and do not have a dormant period, so they germinate immediately, which allows you to get a new crop of berries closer to autumn. Summer fruiting, as a rule, is more modest in volume than autumn fruiting (10-40% versus 60-90%).

There are also remontant varieties of a neutral day (in them, the formation of flower buds does not depend on the length of daylight hours, and the plant bears fruit from spring to autumn frosts). When favorable conditions are created, such varieties can produce a crop all year round. Varieties of neutral daylight hours have one big drawback - in the first year of life, the plant manifests itself in full, but then the yield drops sharply.

The first varieties of remontant berries had poor frost resistance, but today the situation has changed - breeders have bred cold-resistant varieties suitable for growing in our region. Currently, there are remontant varieties of strawberries, raspberries and blackberries.

Features of care for remontant varieties

The last (autumn) harvest of remontant varieties of berry crops, as a rule, does not have time to fully mature. To avoid this, you can carry out summer forcing in greenhouses (berries ripen faster, which eliminates losses). With a significant autumn cooling, you can cover the greenhouses with frames.

Remontant varieties retain their properties if propagated vegetatively or by dividing the bush. seed method in this case not suitable, because the characteristics of the variety are lost.

In connection with abundant flowering and fruiting, remontant varieties present increased requirements to the composition of the soil. They are more than ordinary varieties need top dressing. It is also necessary to monitor the timely moistening of the soil.

Popular remont blackberry varieties

Remontant blackberry varieties have thick shoots (plants need support only with a very large crop). In autumn, the old shoots that bear fruit can be cut off at the root (no need to cover them). Next season, the young shoots that have grown in their place will give autumn harvest(The summer harvest will be provided by the branches grown last year). Popular varieties repair blackberry: Black Magic, Prime, Prime Yang, Prime Jim, Prime Ark Freedom.

The Ruben variety is very popular. Its characteristic features are: compactness (branches directed upwards), abundant flowering, large size of berries, high cold resistance and good drought resistance. Thorns are present, but they are not present on fruiting branches. The variety is not picky about the composition of the soil. Berries have a sweet taste, they are both juicy and dense.

Popular remontant raspberry varieties

The first harvest of remontant raspberries can be obtained already in the first year (flowers appear on young shoots in mid-summer, and berries ripen in mid-August). Remontant raspberry allows you to get good yields even in short summer conditions. Popular varieties: Orange miracle, Bryansk divo, Ruby necklace, Brilliant, Brusvyana, Atlant, Yaroslavna, Polana, Poranna Rosa, Harritech, Himbo top.

Raspberry variety Hercules

The large-fruited variety Hercules is famous for its good harvests (you can collect up to 2.5 kg of berries in each bush). The shoots of the plant do not need support (the bush is compact, the shoots are of medium height). The shape of the berries is truncated-conical, the color is ruby, the consistency is dense (the berries can be transported). The taste of the berries is sweet and sour. The variety has good resistance to raspberry mites and fungal diseases.

Popular remontant varieties of strawberries

Remontant strawberry varieties form a large number of horns, and many inflorescences are laid on each of them (almost 20 times more than non-remontant varieties). In favorable conditions, the berries ripen in 2-3 weeks. The most famous are such strawberry varieties as Red Rich, Ada, Mahern, Herzberg, San Rivel, Inexhaustible, Diamant, Sakhalinskaya.

The variety Elizabeth 2 is of active interest. The berries are large in size (their weight is 40-60 g). Fruits are characterized by such characteristics as a dense structure and a pleasant taste. The variety is transportable. Berries can be harvested from the beginning of summer until October (if conditions are not favorable, you can still get 3 harvests - in June, July, August).

Remontant varieties are a real find for gardeners. And let them demand a lot of attention, good harvest compensate for any labor costs.

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Experienced gardeners know how remontant strawberries differ from simple ones. Owners of dachas and private houses with land plots often plant strawberries. This berry requires careful care. Of no small importance is the choice of a variety suitable for a given climatic zone. What are the features of growing berries and caring for remontant strawberries?

Remontant strawberry differs from simple varieties in that it is able to bear fruit several times during the season. During the summer, you can shoot up to 3 or more crops. At the same time, berries can be harvested even in autumn. This variety of strawberries has other features. These include the small size of the bush. Despite this, in terms of taste characteristics, this strawberry is not inferior to simple varieties.

Remontant varieties of strawberries are divided into several types. They are large-fruited and small-fruited. Some varieties remontant strawberries not able to reproduce by layering (whiskers). Reproduction is carried out only by seeds. Remontant large-fruited strawberries are the most favorite among gardeners. Growing remontant strawberries requires certain efforts from the owners of the garden or giving some effort, because the yield depends on the regularity of watering, the correct planting, the quality of the land, the presence of pests and weeds on the land.

The best varieties of strawberries

The best varieties of remontant strawberries include the following:

• "Queen Elizabeth";
• "Inexhaustible";
• "San Andreas";
• "Monterey";
• "Ostara";
• "Diamond";
• "Russian size";
• "Laurent";
• "Diva";
• "Snow White";
• "Capri";
• "Aromas";
• "Linosa".

The choice of a variety of remontant strawberries is best entrusted to a specialist. The following characteristics are taken into account:

• frost resistance;
• transportability;
• the requirement of the plant for watering.

On sale there are varieties of remontant strawberries of long and neutral daylight hours. The basis of this division is the ability to bear fruit, depending on the length of daylight hours. Growing remontant strawberries of neutral daylight hours is much easier. The remontant strawberry "Queen Elizabeth" is in great demand. It has the following features:

• gives large fruits weighing up to 40 grams;
• resistant to cold;
• has high resistance to various pests;
• blooms continuously from May to October.

This is a variety of neutral daylight hours. The bushes are tall, and the fruits are conical in shape. The berries are sweet and sour and large. This variety is excellent for freezing and transport. Over the summer, 2-3 buckets of berries can be harvested from 1 bush with regular watering and fertilizer.

Strawberries of the Primadonna variety are good. This hybrid variety, which is distinguished by tall peduncles and sweet, bright red berries. Such strawberries are well adapted to Russian frosts.

New varieties of remontant strawberries include "San Andreas". During the season, this variety bears fruit up to 4 times. The weight of the berries is 20-30 grams. The fruits are shiny, large, fleshy and juicy. Berries are suitable for transportation. In European countries and Russia, the variety of strawberries "Capri" is grown. The first harvest can be taken at the end of June, and the last one at the end of October. Fruits continuously.

Preparation for landing on the site

Planting remontant strawberries is carried out on a prepared site. It must be sufficiently illuminated, otherwise the plants will not receive the right amount of light and will not bear fruit well. Remontant strawberries grow better in those beds where vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, garlic) used to grow. Before you grow strawberries, you need to purchase them. It is preferable to buy mustaches or seeds from familiar gardeners or in specialized stores. Mustache must be healthy.

Immediately before planting the plants in the ground, you need to grow seedlings in small pots. The containers should be 10-15 cm in diameter. It is not necessary to fill the containers with earth to the brim. It is required to leave 3-4 cm on top. When growing seedlings from seeds, it is required to scatter them on the ground, sprinkled a little with soil. After that, using a spray gun, you need to irrigate the ground.

For faster and better seed germination, containers must be closed plastic wrap. After 2-3 weeks, the seeds will give the first shoots. All gardeners know that not all seeds will sprout. This must be taken into account when landing. Planting seedlings is carried out in May, and sometimes in autumn. Before planting plants in the ground, the strongest plants are selected. They should have 2-3 large leaves.

Growing remontant strawberries (video)

Planting technology in the ground

To plant remontant strawberries in the garden, you need to prepare land plot. The highest yield is observed in those areas where there is black soil, loamy or sandy soil. Of no small importance is such a factor as the level of occurrence ground water. It should be more than 60 cm. The level of soil freezing in winter is also taken into account.

The soil in the garden should not contain a large number of wireworm larvae and the Colorado potato beetle. After the seeds have sprouted and seedlings have formed, it can be planted. To kill the larvae before planting strawberries, it is advisable to plant lupins or treat the area with ammonia water. Before planting, the earth must be dug and loosened. It is better not to plant remontant strawberries next to potatoes.

When planting planting material, it is necessary to make holes in which the plants will be placed along with a clod of earth. For convenience, seedlings are watered. During planting, the plants should not be in the sun, otherwise they will wither. The roots of seedlings should be up to 10 cm long. If necessary, they can be cut. For better rooting in the ground, it is advisable to treat the roots with Kornevin or dip the plants in a clay mash.

Grown strawberries from seeds and acquired seedlings are planted in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of at least 70 cm from each other. The soil should be moist, but not damp. There should be no weeds in the ground. With a large number of plants, the distance between the beds is at least 80-90 cm. Trees and large shrubs should not grow nearby. It is recommended to plant remontant strawberries from seeds in cool weather so that the plants take root better.

The film method of planting strawberries is widely used. Similar procedure called mulching. The essence of the method is that strawberries are planted under a black film. This provides optimal conditions for plant growth and contributes to the preservation of water under the film. Before growing strawberries, it is necessary to lay a black film with a thickness of 0.05 mm or more on the bed and sprinkle it. Small holes are made in the film where plants will be planted.

Varieties and varieties of strawberries (video)

Rules for the care of strawberries

Not everyone knows how to care for remontant strawberries. Care includes watering plants, loosening the earth, top dressing, removing mustaches, pest control, weeding the beds. Strawberry care necessarily includes watering. Remontant varieties require constant soil moisture. This is especially necessary for regions with a hot climate.

Soil moisture is determined manually. Watering can be done with a watering can, hose, sprinklers or drip method. With a large number of plants, a drip or hose irrigation system is best. The drip method is great for growing berries in containers or in bags.

Additionally, strawberry bushes can be watered with herbal infusion. The most commonly used mixture is nettle, yarrow and wormwood. After watering or rain, the soil becomes hard, so it needs to be loosened. When mulching, loosening is practically not required. Caring for remontant strawberries during fruiting includes top dressing.

Be sure to trim the mustache, as a large number of them negatively affects the yield.

Remontant strawberries are propagated by whiskers. Remontant strawberries need to be updated at least once every 2 years. In this case, old plants are removed. Seeds are rarely used for propagation. With a small number of whiskers, you can divide the bush.

It is recommended that after the first fruiting in large bushes, cut off all flower stalks. Strawberries need to be protected from pests. It can be insects, worms, birds, mites, fungi. When strawberry mites are found, Karbofos is used. These funds must be applied after harvest. Propagation of remontant strawberries is carried out with the help of layering (whiskers).

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Remontant strawberry varieties are demanding for watering and top dressing, and some of them do not breed with a mustache. At the same time, these plants are highly resistant to diseases and do not require shelter for the winter. Thanks to continuous flowering the harvest can be harvested from the beginning of June to the end of August. It is recommended to select varieties for planting on the plot that are different in terms of ripening, then it will be possible to feast on ripe sweet berries almost all summer.

What does remontant strawberry mean?

Strawberries of remontant varieties have several flowering cycles and bear fruit several times during the summer with breaks of 1.5–2 weeks. The ripening period of berries can last until the end of September, especially in the southern regions of Russia.

Remontant strawberries can be enjoyed until frost

This variety of strawberries does not tolerate drafts and shading, but winters well without shelter. Modern selection allows you to enjoy berries:

• white-fruited, red, yellow, orange;
• different shapes and sizes;
• with classic strawberry flavor, nutmeg notes and pineapple aroma.

Different varieties of remontant strawberries differ in shape, color and taste.

Repair varieties are plants of neutral daylight hours, regardless of the season, the fruiting of the berry crop is not interrupted, so the plant is often grown in pots on the windowsill. These strawberries need to be changed every two to three years, it is better to have beds in the garden different ages: last year's plants in the third year will give the smallest harvest.

The ability of remontant strawberries to lay buds at any time of the year, regardless of the duration of daylight hours, does not guarantee a stable harvest in closed ground. The size and taste of home-grown berries differ significantly from summer strawberries ripening in the beds. Even if you manage to get berries on the windowsill, they may be smaller and more sour.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of remontant strawberries

How to grow remontant strawberries

In order for sweet, fragrant berries to grow one to one all summer in the garden, you need to take seriously the choice of the location of the strawberries on the site and the preparation of the seat. It is necessary to carry out watering, treatment from pests and weeding in time, remove dry and damaged leaves from the site.

Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the soil between the rows are mandatory activities in strawberry beds

Planting a remontant strawberry

Strawberries are planted in the spring: from March 20 to mid-May, and in the fall in early September (until the 10th). When planted in spring, the plant develops a powerful root system and gives the first modest harvest for testing. Most often, in the spring, young seedlings grown from seeds are planted, and separated mother bushes are two-year-olds.

In the south, strawberries begin to be planted from the first decade of March, in the middle lane from the end of March to the last decade of April. In the north, the best time for planting remontant strawberries is the third decade of May.

In autumn, planting begins on the 20th of August and is completed by September 10th. In order for the bushes to take root, it is necessary to plant 3 weeks before the predicted frost. Autumn planting is suitable for propagation of strawberries with a mustache, at this time the layers have well-developed roots.

When planting remontant strawberries at any time of the year, the daytime temperature should not be lower than +15 +18 ° С, at night above +5 ° С. The beds are placed to the southeast, best of all - to the south.

A plot for strawberries is chosen sunny, located on a hill

Soil preparation for planting

Remontant strawberries grow well on loose, light soils, sandy loam or loam with the addition of fertile peat 2-3 buckets per 1 m 2, chicken manure is enough 1.5 buckets per 1 m 2 or 2 buckets of cow manure for the same area. Before planting, the area is cleared of weeds, roots and stones. To improve soil aeration and enrichment useful substances, future beds are sown with green manure (phacelia, mustard, oats). This is done in the year preceding planting.

Oats are an excellent siderat of the cereal family, suitable for planting in future beds for strawberries

Since autumn, I bring ammonium nitrate (100 g) per square meter, half a bucket of ash and superphosphate (100–120 g) to the place of the future bed. And also in the process of preparing the site, I add a couple of buckets of rotted manure or when planting 1-2 handfuls in each hole, soil fertility is of great importance for remontant varieties.

Svetlana

http://dachniiotvet.galaktikalife.ru/viewtopic.php?f=205&t=48&sid=

How to grow remontant strawberry varieties from seeds

It is best to plant remontant strawberry seeds after stratification (keeping seeds at a certain temperature to accelerate germination). They start sowing in late January - early February, the planting time is selected so that by the time of relocation to the open ground, the plant is fully formed and strengthened. With late sowing (at the end of February), seedlings will have to be planted on the site in summer heat. In this case, fragile young plants require shading and regular watering, that is, later planting is more troublesome.

For the first time, I planted remontant strawberry seeds in yogurt jars. Small and comfortable, they easily fit in the hand, it was possible to observe how barely noticeable shoots hatched. But after a month and a half, when the plants had three leaves, the bushes had to be planted, as the soil in a small container quickly dried out. Important: strawberry seedlings do not tolerate waterlogging and drought in the same way, this causes instant death of fragile shoots.

I had to transplant small seedlings into cut-off liter plastic bottles (10 cm deep). In this dish, the bushes lived quietly until they moved to the ground. But the next time I took flower pots with a volume of 1.5 and 2 liters - this seemed the most convenient for watering and loosening. A week after the emergence of seedlings, she fed the sprouts with baker's yeast: per liter warm water took dry yeast on the tip of a knife, such top dressing occurred regularly (every 5–7 days). Every two weeks I watered under the root complex preparations: once with Aquarin, the second time - with a humatized additive. The next top dressing was carried out at the end of April already in the garden in open field(tincture of mullein on water at a ratio of 1:3 with the addition of 100 g of ash per bucket of solution).

For planting, choose dishes 10 cm deep filled with moist soil mixture, seeds are carefully scattered over the surface

The container with seeds is covered for the first time cling film to create a mini-greenhouse. After the seedlings hatch, the film will only harm - in such conditions, fungi and mold quickly develop on the surface of the soil. Sprouts are placed on the south window, excluding a direct hit sun rays on plants. Water gently under the root or spray as the soil surface dries. Gently loosen with a thin stick or the tip of a knife upper layer soil along the mini-bed to improve air exchange in the roots.

Fragile strawberry sprouts require careful handling

In the care of strawberry sprouts for the first two months, the main thing is not to harm. The most accurate watering is obtained from a syringe, it allows you to irrigate only the surface of the soil, it is easy to calculate the dosage of water down to drops. It is convenient to loosen with a regular toothpick. If thin shoots are watered too heavily, they can stick to the soil and break. Loosening is also a delicate job, if you accidentally pick up fragile and long hair roots, the plant can be pulled out of the soil.

Video: remontant strawberries from seeds

At the phase of three or four leaves, strawberries dive, when the fifth and sixth leaves appear, the plant can be moved to open ground. Pre-seedlings are taken out for hardening on a balcony or veranda. This is done daily for 2-4 hours a week before placing seedlings in a permanent place.

To get seed at home, the berries are well kneaded in warm water, after 10–15 minutes the seeds settle to the bottom of the dish. The contents are poured onto the surface of the prepared soil substrate and covered with a film for germination.

Seedlings of remontant varieties are planted on beds, the predecessors of which were green manure, root crops, and melons. It is better to do this in the morning or evening hours in cloudy weather at a temperature of + 15 + 20 ° C. In adult seedlings, the roots are shortened to 7–10 cm.

1. Before planting, the soil in the beds is mixed with superphosphate (150 g per 1 m 2) and 1.5–2 buckets per square meter rotted soft manure. The width of the beds is 2–3 meters, the distance between the bushes: 25–30 cm for small-fruited remontants, about 40 cm for large-fruited varieties.
2. In the holes, deepenings are made by 10 cm and watered (a liter per bush is enough).
3. The plants are carefully removed from the container for seedlings, trying not to damage the long, thin roots, lowered into the planting hole and gently sprinkled with soil. It is important to make sure that the growth point remains not sprinkled, and the leaves do not stick together and do not wrinkle.
4. The root space is mulched with small sawdust.

When planting, make sure that the plant is not too deep.

When the beds are ready, I form holes in which I put 2-3 granules of the drug from the bear. It is this pest that most often does not allow plants to develop, eating roots and young shoots at the base of the root. Since high humidity is always maintained on the strawberry beds after planting in order for the cuttings and seedlings to take root, the bear will definitely settle in the neighborhood. The pest prefers moist, loose soil; it is this soil that is prepared for planting strawberries.

After 2-3 weeks, the first leaf will appear from the central bud. It's time to make the first top dressing with mineral fertilizers for seedlings (according to the instructions). The next fertilization is organized after 2 weeks, an infusion is prepared from organic matter and ash (1 kg of fresh manure, boric acid 1–2 g and half a glass of ash per 5 liters of warm water) and use 250–300 g per bush. The first two weeks, seedlings are watered in the beds every 3-4 days.

Strawberry seedlings are ready for transplanting into open ground

If the weather is hot, the beds are shaded for the first time. To do this, pieces of slate are dug along the beds, leaving 20–30 cm above the ground. Strawberry seedlings are very sensitive to the sun, in the heat the leaves quickly turn yellow and deteriorate.

Hope K.

Planting scheme for remontant strawberries

Strawberries are planted in well-lit areas, if necessary, the plant tolerates partial shade without damage to the crop, provided that this happens periodically during the day. Plantings try not to thicken, they are placed in one or two rows, with a solid carpet or tapeworms on decorative flower beds. But it is also convenient to grow this culture in greenhouses and greenhouses, in flower containers at home on the window. Strawberries get along well next door to currants and gooseberries, onions and garlic, carrots, radishes, green peas, undersized annual flowers.

Remontant varieties bloom profusely long time decorating any corner of the garden

In single-row beds 60–70 cm wide, bushes are placed at intervals of 40–50 cm. Such plantings are easy to process from weeds, strawberries are not thickened, so they ripen faster and rot less.

Remontant strawberries are placed on the plot in a single row

But more often, remontant strawberries are planted in a two-line bush method. Form two beds at a distance of 60–80 cm from each other. Strawberries are planted in a row, retreating 30-40 cm from each next bush.

The two-line method of planting strawberries simplifies weeding and watering, avoids weathering and drying out of the soil

Often, in the first year of planting, remontant strawberries, capable of growing mustaches, are planted in one row. During growing season all the mustaches that the mother bushes threw out are directed parallel to the garden bed, placing young shoots in pre-prepared holes with a nutrient substrate. This method allows you to form the second row of strawberries.

Video: planting schemes for remontant strawberries

For mulching strawberry beds in the aisle in the summer I use ordinary cardboard boxes from products (unassembled), which are disposed of by grocery stores - neatly, environmentally friendly and economically. This mulch is just enough for the summer. Over the winter, the paper rots and decomposes.

Photo gallery: ways to place strawberries in the garden

Propagation of strawberries

Bushes of remontant varieties age very quickly due to the heavy load, the main crop is obtained in the first year of fruiting, less plentiful - in the second year. Need to take care of planting material repairmen in advance. It is recommended to update the beds annually by planting young offspring or delenki on the site (a bush divided into several parts with a developed root system).

The division of the bush

By dividing the bush, mainly beardless small-fruited strawberries reproduce.

1. The plant is dug up and divided into several bushes with roots and central buds.
2. Lowered into a hole watered with water.
3. Sprinkle the roots, lightly tamping the surface of the soil with your hands.
4. Mulch with hay or oilcloth.

Mustache breeding

Propagation of garden remontant strawberries with a mustache usually does not cause difficulties. Plants are planted in the same way as young seedlings, keeping the distance between the bushes and rows.

Video: how to get a lot of mustache from remontant strawberries

Seedlings of layering can be obtained by tucking them around the mother bush into the soil or lowering them into cups with prepared fertile substrate. After rooting, well-developed large bushes(first and second order) with 2-3 leaves and transplanted to a permanent place. For breeding with mustaches, separate beds are often taken away, with wider aisles - up to a meter, the distance between individual mother bushes is left 50–60 cm, making room for the mustache.

Video: mustache propagation of strawberries

The peculiarity of remontant strawberries with a mustache is that a large number of offspring appear in the first year of the growing season, so the main period of reproduction with a mustache is the first year of the plant's life. During the ripening of berries, it is recommended to cut off the mustache, the more mustaches on the plant, the less plentiful the harvest and the smaller the berry.

Care for remontant strawberries after planting

During the growing season, remontants yield several times more than ordinary traditional strawberry varieties, so they need fertile soil and regular fertilizing with organic matter. The surface of the beds is mulched to maintain soil moisture and protect the berries from rot during fruiting. Straw, hay, sawdust, needles, as well as oilcloth and lutrasil are used as mulch.

Natural materials are considered budgetary and do not require extra financial costs.

Strawberries are regularly loosened, young shoots (whiskers) must be removed if they do not need to be rooted for reproduction.

Video: care for remontant strawberries

Watering

Strawberries are watered regularly, especially in hot, sunny weather. The irrigation process is carried out in the evening or in the morning, until the air is heated above +25 °C. For irrigation use settled water not lower than 15–20 ° C. Plants are watered under the root during the period of mass flowering and during fruit ripening, before and after flowering, the sprinkling method is used. The best option is drip irrigation of berry plantations.

The ideal option for irrigating strawberry beds is drip irrigation

top dressing

There are many options for fertilizing strawberries:

• nitroammophoska (potassium + phosphorus + nitrogen), superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea;
• organics in the form of chicken manure (solution 1:20), cow manure (solution 1:10);
• iodine, boric acid and manganese;
• biological products (for example, Kemira);
• top dressing own cooking(infusion of herbs, baker's yeast, wood ash).

Strawberries are fed twice before flowering and 1-2 times in the intervals between the subsequent formation of peduncles.

• Organics are applied during the flowering period and during the formation of ovaries - early-mid May.
• In early spring they bring nitrogen fertilizers(urea), in late July - early August, when there is a break between fruiting, mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are applied, this will accelerate the formation of next year's flower buds.

Before fertilizing, the bushes are loosened to a depth of 7–10 cm, then they are fed “under the root” and watered abundantly

Video: homemade strawberry dressing

How to feed remontant strawberries in a pot

When growing strawberries in a pot culture, it is necessary to carefully monitor soil moisture and fertilize regularly. In containers, the soil quickly dries out and becomes less fertile, as can be judged by the yellowness of the lower leaves, crushed berries and slow plant growth.

• As mineral fertilizers when grown in a pot, Kemira, Kemira Lux, other complex chlorine-free preparations are used (according to instructions).
• Regular organics in the calculation of 1 kg of fresh cow manure per 5-liter bottle gives good results. The mixture is infused for a day and watered under the root of the plant - 150–200 g per bush.
• You can brew nettle or a mixture of herbs - dandelion, wormwood, tansy - 200 g of fresh raw materials per 3 liters of water. The broth is allowed to brew for 6-8 hours and strawberries are poured over them. Such top dressing under the root not only enriches the soil, but also disinfects it.

Preparing for winter

Closer to winter - from mid-September until early October, depending on the variety and region - the plants are prepared for wintering. At this time, watering is reduced and sanitary pruning of dry and damaged leaves is carried out. Cut out the whiskers that appear before the first frost and pull nutrients from the plant. In the northern regions, strawberries are covered with straw (a layer of 5–10 cm) to protect them from freezing.

Strawberries are insulated for the winter with a layer of straw

Preventive treatment for diseases and pests

Spring treatment of strawberry plantings with urea and spraying with Topaz helps to fight gray rot (early-mid-March before the start of active growth).

To control pests, the beds are shed with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (10 ml per 10-liter bucket of water). And also make a solution of two glasses of ash, filled with boiling water, add 2 g of boric acid, 2 g of potassium permanganate and 1 tablespoon of iodine. The mixture is abundantly sprayed with bushes in dry calm weather.

Evgenia Yurievna

http://forum.vinograd.info/archive/index.php?t-2889.html

To get rid of slugs that spoil the crop and damage the leaves, planks or pieces of roofing material 30 by 50 cm in size are laid out along the beds.

If you do not stop during the attack of slugs, you can lose most of the crop

In preparation for wintering, strawberry beds are loosened and the soil is cultivated with a solution of Karbofos (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of warm water are preliminarily infused for 3-4 hours).

Varieties of remontant strawberries with a description and characteristics

There are several varieties of remontant strawberries with and without mustaches, which can be grown in open ground, in ampelous form and in a greenhouse.

Table: the most famous self-pollinating varieties of remontant strawberries with a description and characteristics

Variety name	Description and characteristics
Ruyana (Czech selection)	cone-shaped bright red berries (weight 4–6 g); rich strawberry aroma; transfers excess moisture in the soil and shade; the variety is resistant to gray rot, bears fruit all summer.
Rügen (German selection)	oval rich red berries (weight 5–6 g), yellowish-white juicy pulp; sepals are usually painted reddish; blooms in early June; for continuous fruiting, it is necessary to provide enough light.
Baron Solemacher (Dutch selection)	berries with convex inclusions have a pronounced strawberry aroma, bright red (weight no more than 4 g); rarely affected by gray rot; It is famous for its long fruiting (until frost).
Holiday (American selection)	undersized (up to 25 cm); red berries with pink flesh are cone-shaped (weight 12–15 g); frost-resistant variety.

Photo gallery of famous self-pollinated varieties of remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberry Garland does not tolerate waterlogging, resistant to gray rot

Strawberry Temptation with red elongated berries (weight up to 35 g) looks decorative and decorates the beds thanks to high shoots with numerous flowers. A lush bush is tied to a trellis or allowed to hang freely, while a pot of strawberries is hung at a distance of 1.5–2 meters from the ground in a sunny, draft-free place. It is slightly resistant to frost.

Strawberry low temperatures, grown in the southern regions and in the south of the Chernozem region

Remontant varieties of strawberries for greenhouses with a description and characteristics

For indoor cultivation, experts recommend the well-known remontant variety Elizabeth 2 with long continuous fruiting, small-fruited Alexandria, a hybrid of the Czech selection Selva. These varieties of strawberries are cultivated for a year-round crop in greenhouses.

Table: remontant varieties of strawberries for greenhouses

Variety name	Description and characteristics
Elizabeth 2	the plant is bisexual, forms little whiskers; the crop is harvested from late May to mid-September; the average weight of bright red berries with sourness is 25–30 g; propagated by division of the bush and seeds.
Alexandria (Swiss selection)	cone-shaped bright red with a glossy shade of berries weigh 6–8 g; ripens in mid-June; bears fruit until frost; the plant has a strong immunity to diseases and pests; beardless variety propagated by seeds.
Selva (Czech selection)	fruiting from May to October; average weight of berries 40 g; the pulp is crispy, white, the berries are oval; propagated by dividing the bush; the variety does not tolerate a lack of moisture and heat.
Fragrant basket (Russian selection)	elongated berries with white dense pulp, ripen in early June; fragrant, similar to wild strawberries, weigh 2–4 g; the variety does not give layering; propagated by seeds and division of the mother bush; drought tolerant variety.

Photo gallery: remontant varieties of strawberries for greenhouses

Strawberries Fragrant basket are regaled already in the first days of June

Other varieties of remontant strawberries

There are more than 30 known varieties of remontant strawberries that have positive reviews experienced gardeners. Productive and weather-resistant European and domestic hybrids, little known and under variety testing, are grown by both ordinary summer residents and farmers on an industrial scale.

Table: other modern varieties of remontant strawberries

Variety name	Description and characteristics
Monterey (American selection)	mid-early variety (first harvest from June 10–15); berries are dense, fragrant, rich red (weight 30–40 g); strawberries produce 3–4 crops with interruptions of 1.5–2 weeks; breeds by mustache; thermophilic variety.
Letizia (Italian selection)	berries are orange-red, dense, weight 40–60 g; late variety, ripens in early July; fruiting until mid-September; resistant to fungal diseases.
Elsinore	berries are elongated conical up to 60 g; the variety is thermophilic, does not tolerate excess moisture and dampness; little stepchildren form.
San Andreas (Italian hybrid)	round sweet and sour berries from 40 to 70 g; beardless variety, propagated by dividing the bush; resistant to gray mold.
Moscow delicacy	berries are sour, shiny, have a pronounced berry aroma, weight 6–8 g; frost-resistant, resistant to a sharp drop in temperature variety; breeds by mouth.

Photo gallery: other varieties of remontant strawberries

Strawberries San Andreas fruit in waves at intervals of 5 weeks until the first frost Strawberries Moscow delicacy can be easily identified by their blunt, flattened berries with deep-set seeds

Remontant strawberry varieties suitable for growing in the regions

Most of the famous strawberry remontant varieties are grown everywhere due to their frost resistance and unpretentiousness. When choosing a variety, it is important to focus on growing conditions in the climatic zone. Considering that there are small-fruited and large-fruited varieties, sweet and sour, the taste preferences of the gardener when choosing strawberries play an important role.

Video: the best varieties for growing in the regions of Russia

Varieties of remontant strawberries for cultivation in the Moscow region

For the Moscow region, varieties are suitable that tolerate waterlogging and are resistant to return frosts. Alexandria and Rügen, strawberries that taste amazing Yellow miracle, loved in last years Moscow delicacy, Ruyana, with delicate notes of strawberry Lyubasha - the most unpretentious and suitable for growing in a variable climate. As ampelous plant plant the Garland variety.

Varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in central Russia

The most famous remontant varieties - early-ripening Baron Solemacher, fragrant Ruyana, large-fruited Selva, Rügen - are frequent guests at garden plots in Central Russia, the Volga region, the Chernozem region. To the conditions temperate climate adapted to Elsenora, Holiday. Lyubava and Zolotinka bloom profusely and bear fruit up to 2 years. The most common varieties are Ali Baba and Alexandria, they are preferred by gardeners as the most unpretentious remontants.

Varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in Siberia and the Urals

Basically, varieties are selected for cultivation that easily tolerate frosts and bear fruit continuously throughout the season:

• Rügen.
• Alexandria.
• Baron Solemacher.
• Ruyana.
• Yellow wonder.
• Yoshkarolinka.
• Yoke.

Even in the conditions of the Siberian climate, small-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries can be found - they are the most resistant to recurrent cold weather. In Siberia, it is necessary to insulate strawberries for the winter with a layer of straw mulch. In the first decade of May early varieties it is recommended to cover with non-woven materials at night to protect flowering shoots from frost.

Remontant varieties of strawberries for cultivation in Belarus

In the southern regions of Belarus, the Monterey and Selva varieties are grown, here the fruitful Elizabeth 2 and Albion, the fragrant Forest Fairy Tale, are found in garden plots; ampelous hybrids - Temptation and Garland. These are mainly varieties that tolerate drought and hot weather well. In the regions located to the north, the Rügen strawberry, the recently spread Yoshkoralinka, the Moscow delicacy, Baron Solemacher, the unpretentious Wim Rin strawberry, a novelty of the last decade, the Charlotte variety are cultivated. Heat-loving varieties (for example, Monterey) require additional shelter for the winter.

Video: the best variety of remontant strawberries in Belarus

My children and I wait all winter for the strawberry season, and when these berries finally start to turn red, we eat them in bowls. But then the strawberry leaves ... Of course, other berries come to replace it, but still sometimes you want to eat juicy and sweet strawberries, or cook something with these berries. No problem! The main thing is to plant a remontant variety, it will delight you all summer. With us, he will give birth not so thickly, but regularly and continuously. I will tell you how I take care of the bushes, but first I will explain ...

This word means that the plant can bear fruit several times in a row or the whole season.. Repair can be not only strawberries, but also raspberries, as well as citrus fruits.

Most varieties of rem strawberries bear fruit twice: the first time in July, and the second from August to September (and even more berries grow the second time). Because of this, there is such a load on the bushes that many simply die at the end of the season.

By the way! I call this berry a strawberry (it's more familiar), but in fact it's correct to say - garden strawberries. So if you see the name “remontant strawberries” somewhere, you should know that this is the same as remontant strawberries.

Growing seedlings of this crop

Yes! You can not only buy ready-made seedlings - bushes, but also grow them from purchased seeds.

It is done like this:

1. Moisten the soil for seeds well (pour up to 0.8 liters of water for each kilogram of soil). The soil can be bought universal, or you can take a light humus soil on the site.
2. Mix the soil well, breaking up any lumps.
3. Collect soil in pots from 10 to 15 cm in diameter. Fill them almost completely.
4. Spread the seeds on top, sprinkle with a thin (this is important) layer of unwetted soil. If you have already soaked it all by mistake, even sand will do.
5. Spray the top of the pot with a spray bottle (only the smallest).
6. Create a "greenhouse" by covering the pot with a jar, glass, or at least a film.
7. Keep the pot on a warm, light windowsill.

When to do this in order to be in time with planting before the spring season? If you live near Moscow, Kyiv or Minsk, plant strawberries in last week February - first March. If you live in the southern region, you can start earlier - even in early February.

The potty room should be at least 18 degrees. As soon as the seedlings hatch, air them more often, and transfer the pot to the most lit room (or to the flowers under the fitolamp).

When the kids grow 2-3 leaves (not cotyledons), transplant them into a larger box or separate "houses". Just don't deepen it!

10-15 days before moving to the garden, harden the sprouts, bringing them to the balcony or veranda for 15-20 minutes a day.

planting strawberries

This culture love sunny beds without puddles. The soil may be sandy or loamy, but not peaty or soddy. Fertilize it well with manure and ash. Also suitable is "Kaliyfos" (a tablespoon per "square" of the garden, brought in a month before planting the sprouts).

Successful predecessors: mustard, beetroot, garlic, radish ( different types), carrots, parsley or legumes. And after potatoes, nightshade, cucumbers and cabbage, do not plant this crop.

Plant "young" in the middle or end of May when you make sure that the night frosts are gone and they will not return. Bushes can be planted before winter (from August to October).

It can be planted with a carpet (leaving 20 cm between the bushes on all sides) or in rows (leave 20 cm on one side, and 70 row spacing on the other). Choose a day that is not sunny. Transfer seedlings to moistened pits by transshipment. Make the holes deep so that the roots do not wrap, and at the end press the soil a little.

First, water the bushes every day, then take 3-day breaks.

Caring for this difficult strawberry

• Watering. Bring water only warmed up in the sun, in the evening and early in the morning. Make sure that the soil is wetted by 3 cm (deeper is not needed, the roots of the culture are superficial).

• Mulching. This procedure helps you save energy on carrying watering cans with water. And besides, if you cover the area with straw or black agrofibre (pictured), it’s beautiful, plus it will help you collect clean, “marketable” berries.
• top dressing. Without nitrogen and potassium, this berry does not! A good option- mulch from manure (5 kg per "square") or humus (2.5 kg). At the end of May, give strawberries a solution of urea (2%), and at the end of June - a solution of manure or curd. Suitable also "Kristallin", "Mortar". During the season, this crop can be fertilized up to 15 times, and not until the end of fruiting, but until late autumn.
• Transfer. If ordinary strawberries this "procedure" is needed, then remontant - no, this is a short-lived culture. However, if you got a "whiskered" variety, it can reproduce itself - your task is only to plant the resulting sockets in the right places. Well, if you really need to transplant a couple of old bushes, remember: this should be done in the fall (but not too late) - if you transplant them in the spring, they will not have time to produce a crop.

• pruning. It is done at the end of the season so that the plant does not become infected with an infection or bugs. But remember: take care of the rosettes of the upper leaves, fruit buds will look out from here in the spring. Well, the tendrils can be cut off at any time (if you do not need new strawberry bushes).
• Enemies of this culture. They are the same as those garden varieties: fusarium, powdery mildew, gray rot, brown/white spots. Of the insects, the enemies of culture are: strawberry mites, aphids, wasps, nematodes, weevils, and of course, ants. Don't forget about slugs and starlings too.
• Wintering. After the arrival of frosts and pruning, strawberries are recommended to be covered with non-woven material. Although if your winters are warm, just throw straw, leaves or sawdust on the bed.

Do you live in one of the northern regions and are afraid that you won’t be able to get a good harvest of such strawberries? I offer this video in which an experienced gardener shares her positive experience of growing remontant strawberries in a greenhouse following the example of Holland:

Reproduction of such strawberries

In addition to the method with seeds, which was discussed above, remontant varieties can be propagated:

• tendrils. tendrils of the most strong bushes point to an empty space in the garden (use the best, cut the rest). They will begin to sprout - leave the first outlet, remove the rest. When the outlet becomes a strong bush, separate it from the "mother", that is big bush, and transplant to a more spacious place.
• By dividing the bush. This is the less popular way. You need to find a strong bush of 2-4 years of age. Dig it up in the fall or in early spring, divide (the bush should have many shoots with roots). Plant in different places.

The most popular varieties

Experienced gardeners divide them into 2 categories: varieties of neutral (give berries all the time) and long daylight hours (give several crops per season). Among remontant strawberries there are varieties with small / large berries, beardless / "whiskered". And most importantly: some of them are recommended for vegetable gardens. middle lane, and some can be grown even in the north.

Heat-loving varieties (Ukraine, Belarus, Moscow region)

• "Aromas". Variety with tasty large berries. Not afraid of many diseases (strawberry mites, powdery mildew).

• "Vima Rina". The variety was bred by the Dutch. He is NSD (neutral daylight), almost beardless. Gives berries from the end of June until frost. Some say they have a cherry flavor.

• "Garland". My favorite variety, although with small berries (but sweet). It can be grown in the garden or in hanging planters. It blooms and bears fruit at the same time.

• "Diamond" ("Diamond"). A variety from America, one of the most delicious. The only thing: the berries are light, so the jam from them is not the most beautiful. The plant is "whiskered", so it is very easy to propagate.

• "Tristan" (hybrid). Almost ornamental variety With pink flowers. Blooms early, ripens all summer. Beardless.

Not afraid of cool air (Siberia)

These varieties are suitable for the Moscow region. In northern conditions, they often have to be covered with a film, but it's worth it!

• "Ada". German variety, generous with berries and tendrils. The berries are small, have whitish flesh and a red "heart", with sourness. Bushes are afraid of diseases and pests.

• "Mount Everest". This variety is good because it can grow on any soil. It looks a little funny because it has large leaves, wide bushes and small berries. But he is not afraid of most insects and diseases. In the first year after disembarkation, he grows antennae, but then stops.

• "Queen Elizabeth 2". Popular winter-hardy variety, early. The berries are very large (up to 110 g, while the weight of most berries of other varieties is from 50 to 70 g). By the way, bushes are often sold in the markets, promising "Elizabeth" and at the same time selflessly deceiving, so be careful.

• "Inexhaustible". Large light pink berries, which grow a lot on the bushes, with a very pleasant taste. It can breed with antennae (although it grows a little). The only pity is that this variety is painful (for example, it is afraid of powdery mildew).

• "Russian size" (hybrid). The size of the berries is really impressive. But they are also delicious, and very juicy. The variety is not afraid of diseases and frosts.

Plants that are able to repeatedly and even repeatedly bloom (bear) during one growing season are called remontants. Relate to such cultivated plants certain varieties of strawberries, strawberries, raspberries, as well as many varieties of house flowers.

It is important that some varieties of both garden and their forest counterparts have a tendency to remontance. The size of the fruits of any plant species, as well as their varieties, does not depend on the number of crops in one period. It is believed that on average the duration of the growth of this type of crop is two years.

Modern varieties of remontant type

The developed and bred varieties of remontant plants enjoy unprecedented popularity, especially considering some of the unique features of representatives of this type of fruit and berry. The main advantages of such plants are natural and artificially grafted properties:

1. The ability to repeatedly bloom and produce fruits.
2. Habituation and resistance under adverse climatic conditions.
3. Attractive taste and bright visually aesthetic qualities of berries.
4. Resistance to various diseases, as opposed to common varieties of the same species.
5. Endurance and frost-resistant qualities.

An equally important nuance when growing varieties of remontant plants is proper fit and care. Under such conditions, it is possible to obtain a high-quality, full-fledged crop several times in the specified standard volume.

Strawberries, wild strawberries and raspberries are the most popular types of remontant plants.

A large number of summer residents and gardeners in our time prefer to plant remontant plants on their plots, among which raspberries and strawberries are the most relevant. With the help of special types of varieties of these useful berries you can provide yourself and your loved ones with a quality harvest for the entire summer season.

Raspberries are most often planted for two consecutive crops. But it is believed that autumn fruit ripening is not so juicy and productive, in view of the fact that at the first, summer bloom, the plant gives more strength and resources.

Remontant strawberries also tend to ripen again after one harvest. With the help of antennae, not many types of berries reproduce, so strawberries are most often bred by seeds. Quite popular and hybrids different varieties remontant strawberries, enhancing the consumer qualities of the plant.

Strawberries produce two crops in a row in a season, independently and quite effectively multiplying for years. This is facilitated by a long daylight hours and heat air. The beardless strawberry, a more stable and patient variety, has been enjoying separate popularity for quite a long time. This variety is perennial, but it is necessary to plant a berry every four years. Propagated by both seeds and young rosettes.

Proper, constant nutrition and watering is important for any remontant berry. In addition, attention should also be paid to important nuances crop care.

Caring for remontant plants throughout the year

With proper care for any remontant plant, it is possible to obtain a 100% result, which is expected upon planting. With the help of a set of necessary actions, it is possible to achieve not only the desired number of flowering and fruit ripening, but also best quality the berries themselves.
It is essential to do the following:

• Topping
• Pruning sanitary
• Pruning after fruit ripening
• Density adjustment
• top dressing

It is necessary to periodically loosen and mulch the soil without damaging the roots of the plants. To protect shrubs, inflorescences, fruits from pests and various kinds of diseases, it is necessary to use proven, highly effective fertilizers and chemical compositions.

Also, to increase the yield and extend the life of the berries of remontant plants, it is possible to organize strong, light-transmitting polyethylene shelters. However, it is desirable to build such structures at the very end of summer - the bees must have time to pollinate the flowers to form an ovary.