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Warm beds for cucumbers with their own hands. How to grow cucumbers indoors Is it possible to plant cucumbers in humus

Cucumber is one of the most common crops that summer residents grow in their gardens. It's just that the results are different for everyone. A bountiful harvest depends on many things, not the last role is played by the right soil and the sequence of planting vegetables. Everyone wants to get the maximum amount of fruit from their garden. Let's talk about how this can be achieved.

Rules optimal fit do not provide for the cultivation of the same crop in the same place for several consecutive seasons. These rules apply to cucumbers as well.

Therefore, it is best to plant this vegetable after the recommended predecessors. But if this is not possible, then you need to take care of more careful preparation soil.

For example, if you have one greenhouse in which you are forced to plant cucumbers year after year, then at the end of the season, after harvesting, plant green manure. And in the spring, compost will need to be added to the soil.

What to plant after cucumbers next year?

Cucumbers have superficial root system, therefore, they deplete the most upper layer soil. According to the rules of crop rotation, root crops and crops with more powerful roots can be planted in their place.

IN open field it is best to plant such root crops as radish, turnip, beets, carrots, potatoes. Tomatoes, celery, parsley, onions, garlic will also give a guaranteed good harvest.

By planting legumes after a pimply vegetable, you can achieve an increase in soil fertility. Beans, beans, peas will saturate the soil with nutrients and prepare it for planting: peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, zucchini, lettuce, onions and corn.

In the greenhouse, the soil is depleted even more than in open beds. Cucumbers take almost all nitrogen from the soil, and in return they release phenolic compounds. Therefore, vegetables with roots going deep into the soil are suitable for planting after cucumbers. These are cultures such as:

• parsley;
• celery;
• parsnip;
• early potatoes;
• eggplant;
• tomatoes;
• pepper.

Harmful substances remaining in the upper soil layer after growing cucumbers will not be dangerous for them. To minimize the harm from cucumber root discharge, it is best to burn the tops immediately after harvesting the cucumbers. Whips are also not suitable for compost.

Further improve the condition of the soil

Vegetable Rotation Table

Then plant cucumbers next year?

Cucumbers can be planted 7 days after the preparation.

The subtleties of growing cucumbers: video

Please note that cucumbers are a demanding crop for crop rotation and it is better to strictly observe agrotechnical rules. If you follow all the recommendations, you will be able to avoid problems with the incidence of this crop and collect a good crop of green pimply cucumbers, which you can enjoy fresh and use for preparing blanks for the winter.

Cucumbers are one of the most beloved vegetable crops. It shares its popularity only with tomatoes. However, getting a good tasty harvest is not quite easy. Traditional cucumber varieties need high humidity, sufficient light, and careful care, consisting of watering, tying, protection from pests. In the article you will learn about how to plant cucumbers on manure and planting methods.

Manure bed preparation

Choice of cucumber varieties

At the moment, there are outdoor cucumber varieties on sale, which are not so difficult to grow. However, most gardeners prefer covered ground for growing, as this guarantees reliable protection from harmful insects and getting a bountiful harvest. In addition, vegetable crops grown in greenhouse conditions have a beautiful appearance. They have a straight cylindrical shape and a smooth skin. The main requirement is right choice cucumber variety suitable for growing in greenhouse conditions to ensure a bountiful harvest.

REFERENCE: For growing in greenhouses, give preference to hybrid or parthenocarpic varieties that self-pollinate. Their qualitative characteristics include increased shade tolerance and high yields.

The most popular cucumber varieties are:

• "Marinda";
• "Ant";
• "Twixie";
• "Hally";
• "Malachite";
• "Elegant";
• "Altaic";
• "Unbearable 40".

In regions with a cold climate, "warm" or "hot" beds are used in greenhouses and greenhouses, the basis of which is manure. Basically, they are equipped with the onset of spring.

Manure bed preparation

ATTENTION: The ideal composition of the manure bed, so that cucumbers grow better, the use of fresh manure with the addition of horse manure.

When embarking on the arrangement of a “warm bed”, it must be borne in mind that it is better to apply manure in advance, as it will provide the soil with gradual heating. Its introduction directly during the planting of the cucumber crop will lead to its combustion, since the temperature of the bed will be quite high. To achieve the optimal temperature regime for the bed, the soil for the manure bed is prepared in advance, 7-10 days in advance.

Landing methods

Placed on top of the manure fertile soil and planting seedlings

Basic landing rules:

• Lay the manure in, whose width should be one meter;
• Lay loose fertile soil on top of the manure, with a layer of 25 cm;
• Carry out abundant watering;
• The soil is prepared for planting seeds;
• Seed material is planted at the rate of four plants per 1 m 2, two seeds in each planting hole.

REFERENCE: It is not necessary to carry out preplant preparation of seeds;

• After planting, the bed must be covered with a film to provide additional heating.

Thanks to high temperature manure beds, the first shoots appear after 4-5 days. Young shoots need regular ventilation and constant temperature regime from +20 to +30 ºС.

It is not easy even for experienced gardeners, because this requires a lot of time and physical effort, regardless of the chosen variety of cucumbers. However, with proper observance of all stages of cultivation, you can get a rich harvest of delicious cucumbers.

Video: Planting cucumbers on a dunghill

To get ultra early harvest cucumbers are planted on warm beds. At this time, the weather is still cool and it makes no sense to sow crop seeds in cold ground. A warm bed significantly speeds up the production of greens; without it, you can wait for the start of the season until mid-June. In the north, on warm beds, cucumbers are also grown in summer.

Growing cucumbers in warm beds Advantages and disadvantages of warm beds Warm beds have a number of advantages over conventional ones. The possibility of sowing seeds and planting seedlings for two weeks ahead of time and obtaining a very early harvest of finished products. The number of top dressings is reduced, since a sufficient amount of organic matter has already been applied for planting and will be gradually used during the entire growing season. If manure was brought into the garden in large quantities, then organic matter can not be fed at all, but only potassium, magnesium and trace elements can be added. The roots of cucumbers are always warm, so the plants tolerate adverse conditions more easily. After harvesting plant residues, it is not necessary to apply organic fertilizers. The following year, crops requiring high soil fertility can be planted here. Significant reduction in labor and material costs for growing crops. Despite all the advantages, warm beds also have significant disadvantages. Accumulation of nitrates in greens. It is very difficult to prevent this, since a large amount of available nitrogen is in the soil. Increasing the doses of potassium and magnesium, as a counterbalance to nitrates, is not the best way out in this case. Under such conditions, they do not completely eliminate the accumulation of nitrates. In a very warm spring, plants can burn. This is especially true for the southern regions. Arranging a warm bed is not an easy task. In general, this method of growing has more advantages than disadvantages. In summer, cucumbers are not planted on such beds. You can plant greens on it, and closer to autumn, when the summer heat subsides, you can cultivate cucumbers again. What is a warm bed? In essence, this is a layer cake, the main component of which, so to speak, “filling”, is organic matter. In addition to it, the composition includes sawdust, plant and food residues, peat and fertile soil. Warm garden device As a result chemical reaction a large amount of heat is released between the components, the soil is always warm, which allows planting a crop 15-20 days earlier than the calendar date. It is advisable to maintain the sequence of layers: wood residues (branches, chips, boards); plant remains ( various cleaning, banana peel, onion peel, etc.), tops, leaves; manure or compost; fertile land. But most often not all components are included in the garden. The main component - manure or compost - must be mandatory, it is he who gives the greatest amount of heat. Slowly rotting components (sawdust, branches, boards) go to the very bottom. They decompose for several years and the effect of their transformation appears after 3-4 years. What is subject to rapid decomposition (kitchen waste, tops) goes to the middle; rots in 2-3 years. The manure decomposes during the 1st season and goes up. Thus, different layers begin to release heat within a few years, and the operation of warm ridges is possible for several seasons even without manure application in subsequent years. 3 types of warm beds For cucumbers, you can make a recessed, raised and a bed at soil level. 1 option. buried bed Particularly suitable for growing cucumbers in arid regions of the country. Always located below ground level, service life 3-5 years. More suitable for open ground than for greenhouses. The device of a deep warm bed for cucumbers. Advantages. Saving time, effort and money. To create such a bed does not require additional materials. Better than other types of beds retains moisture. Does not require annual re-digging. Flaws. With heavy rainfall or intensive watering, it is washed away with water. Usually, water stagnates in such beds, and this leads to rotting of the roots. Crawling freely fall on the plants. If the structure is made in the shade, then it does not warm up enough by the sun. Cucumbers will suffer due to poor soil warming. Cucumbers suffer greatly from late spring and early summer frosts. IN middle lane they are practically not used due to their low efficiency in this climate, since cucumbers in such beds often freeze during frosts. Option 2. raised bed Suitable for the middle lane and northern regions. It is raised relative to ground level, service life is 3-5 years. Suitable for open ground. In the north, such beds are also being built in greenhouses. Advantages. Well warmed by the sun. Cucumbers are less likely to suffer from frost. Water does not stagnate. Easy to weed and water. Crawling soil pests cannot get into the garden. You can build it anywhere that is not suitable for a deep or surface bed. At proper care the harvest of early and late cucumbers is good. Flaws. Requires significant physical and material costs. Requires frequent watering as the soil dries out quickly. In summer, the soil warms up very much, so cucumbers can burn during summer cultivation in hot weather. The raised bed is ideal for early and late harvest cucumbers in the northern and central regions. 3 option. At ground level The simplest type of warm, this option is easy to do with your own hands. Used both indoors and outdoors. The bed is raised 3-5 cm above the ground. Service life 1-2 years. Beds at ground level. Advantages. Very easy and fast to do. Does not require investment. Good yield of cucumbers. In the cold summer in the middle lane, cucumbers grow well in such beds. Flaws. When watering and rains, the edges of the beds are washed out, as a result of which it loses nutrients. Requires edge reinforcement. Soil pests freely enter plants. It loses its shape very quickly, so it needs to be trimmed or redone every year. Most summer residents use just such beds for growing cucumbers and other crops. Construction of warm beds All three varieties of warm ridges can be equipped both in the greenhouse and on the street. Buried warm ridges in a greenhouse If it is done in a greenhouse, then its width corresponds to the width of the greenhouse bed. All greenhouse ridges have sides on the sides, therefore, to place the heater, the ground from the ridges is chosen by 50-60 cm (2 bayonets of a shovel). Doing warm bed in a greenhouse. The greenhouse usually has very good drainage, so branches and sawdust are not used. Kitchen waste is immediately poured to the bottom - leaves, husks, tops. The next layer is organic - humus, compost or manure. Fresh manure can also be applied under cucumbers (except for chicken manure), but it gives off a lot of heat and such a bed has been prepared since autumn. If fresh manure is introduced, then it is covered with earth from above with a layer of 7-10 cm. If compost or semi-rotted manure is used, then it is mixed with the ground and is not embedded in the soil. Ready ridges are watered hot water and covered with black foil. Boiling water starts the fermentation process, as a result of which a large amount of heat is released. After 2-3 days in Warm ridges in open ground The process of arranging ridges on the street is slightly different from the greenhouse version. They dig a trench 60 cm deep, 1.5-1.8 m wide. The width should not be too large, since wide ridges make it difficult to care for cucumbers. Branches, boards, sawdust are laid out at the bottom of the trench. These materials create excellent drainage, preventing water from stagnating in the borage. The layer height is about 20 cm, but if the soil on the site is sandy, then it is made 10 cm. Next comes a layer of plant residues: leaves, straw, hay, tops fall asleep. This layer should be 10 cm. Then everything is covered with compost or manure with a layer of 10 cm. From above, biofuels are covered with earth. The bed should be deepened into the ground by 7-10 cm. The finished “pie” is thoroughly poured with boiling water and covered with a black film. Cucumbers can be planted in 5-7 days. raised ridges Their construction is the same both in the greenhouse and on the street. First, a box is knocked down from improvised materials (boards, slate, pipes, etc.). The width of the box is not more than 1.5 m, the height is from 30 to 100 cm. Usually the box is made 60-80 cm high. It is easier to care for such a bed than for a very high or low one. A layer of plant residues is immediately laid out at the bottom of the box. Wood materials are used only in the case of clay soil on ridges with a height of no more than 35 cm. Apply manure or compost. From above they fall asleep with earth. Water the ridges with hot water and cover with a film. After 4-6 days, the ridges are ready for sowing cucumber seeds. The largest should be a layer of plant and kitchen residues. The thickness of the manure layer should not exceed 10-12 cm. If there is a lot of manure, then too much heat will be released and the cucumbers will burn. The top layer of the earth should be about 10 cm, then it warms up fairly evenly. Warm beds in open ground. Such ridges are the warmest. You can operate them for a long time, but it is undesirable to dig up and mix manure with the ground, otherwise their service life is reduced. Ridges at ground level These are the most common ridges for. It is very easy to build it. Mark the size of the future borage. The width of such ridges should not exceed 1 m. The earth is dug up on the bayonet of a shovel. 1 bucket of manure and 2 buckets of compost per 1 m 2 are added to the dug up land. Organics are leveled with a rake. They do not dig up the earth anymore, since it is impossible to mix and fill biofuel with earth on such ridges. With repeated digging and mixing of the layers, the heat release is greatly reduced and the effect of the ridges comes to naught. There are no plant residues that produce additional heat, so the soil warms up more slowly than in other types of warm ridges. The finished bed is poured with hot water and covered with a film. Cucumbers can be planted in 7-10 days. Warm beds without manure If there is no manure, no compost, no straw, no sawdust in the country house, then a warm bed can be made from plant residues and kitchen waste. They can be both raised and recessed. Surface ridges cannot be made in this way. A box or trench is stuffed with plant and kitchen debris. The layers are carefully compacted or, if possible, compressed. Otherwise, when watering, the grass will settle, and the roots of the cucumbers will be on the surface of the soil. And this most often leads to the death of plants. From above, the grass is covered with earth with a layer of 10 cm. Pour hot water over and cover with foil. Since such ridges warm up more slowly than manure beds, cucumbers are planted after 10 days. Grass beds are suitable for late summer and autumn harvest cucumbers. For early landing they are also suitable, but in early spring there is nowhere to get such an amount of grass, and there will not be enough kitchen waste to arrange it. To obtain early cucumbers, they can be used from the 2nd year. Terms of construction of warm ridges All preparatory work- digging trenches and knocking together a frame - it is better to do it in the fall. At this time, the main country cares have already departed, and you can pay attention to other matters. It is desirable to fill the finished structures immediately before planting cucumbers, that is, in early spring. But some have been stuffing them since the fall. You can do it this way, then in the spring you need careful and abundant watering with boiling water to start the fermentation processes and release heat. In open ground in spring, watering is carried out twice. If the warm ridges have remained since last year, then they are also spilled with boiling water and covered with a black film. The process of starting the release of heat and warming up the soil is determined by touch. The earth in the garden should be warm, unlike the rest of the soil, which has not yet warmed up.

Learning Theory: Feeding and Fertilizing Methods

Many gardeners unknowingly apply fertilizer to the soil right before planting seeds, but it is not recommended to work at this time. And all because of the fact that the culture big number mineral salts in the soil is detrimental. The most suitable optionduring the preparation of the beds for cucumbersthe use of rotted manure is considered. The mixture is applied during the digging of the garden under the top layer of the earth. IN this case manure will serve as an excellent soil heater, because it is moist and warm soil that cucumbers need for development.

• How to properly water cucumbers
• Dung pitchfork four horns

As for fertilizers, it is enough to carry out literally four top dressings over the summer. Organic or mineral fertilizers, the use of the root and foliar method - here each gardener must choose the most suitable method for him. However, it is desirable to combine methods. So, for example, root dressings are best suited for warm weather when the roots of cucumbers are well developed. If the yard is cloudy, it is best to use the foliar method, spraying the leaves of the plant.

Whichever method you choose, the first time cucumbers are fed 15 days after planting, the second time - at the beginning of flowering, the third - during fruiting. If you want to extend the life of the plant, you can feed the cucumbers for the fourth time.

The best fertilizer for cucumbers and the choice of feeding method

Cucumbers are best perceived organic and mineral fertilizers, to chemicals they are pretty cool. And despite the fact that even in bad conditions you will still get a crop, top dressing should be applied, which will make the plant more resistant to disease.

Feeding with mineral fertilizers:

1. First root dressing. We take 5 g of ammophos per meter, evenly distribute the fertilizer over the beds. The incorporation of the preparation is carried out during the loosening of the soil.
2. The second dressing can be both root and foliar. In the first case, in a 10 liter bucket of water, we dilute 30 g of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate and 20 g of potassium nitrate each. In the second case, we take 2 tablespoons of superphosphate for a 10 liter bucket of water and spray the plant.
3. The third dressing (root). In a bucket of water (10 l), stir either 50 g of urea or two tablespoons of potassium nitrate.
4. The fourth dressing (foliar). For a bucket of water of 10 liters, we need 15 g of urea. After mixing the ingredients, spray the cucumber beds with a solution.

Usage organic fertilizers:

1. For the first feeding, slurry is best suited - for 8 liters of water, one liter of solution or comfrey infusion in a ratio of 1:5.
2. For the second top dressing, ash is suitable as a fertilizer: we take a glass of ash for a 10-liter bucket of water, stir it and put it under the cucumber roots.
3. For the third root dressing, purchase the Gumi preparation: for a 10-liter bucket of water, 2 tablespoons of the preparation are enough.
4. The fourth dressing should be foliar. For work, the spray solution is prepared in advance. We fill the rotten hay with water in a ratio of 1: 1, we insist the mixture for two days, and only after that it is possible to spray the plants. This will not only extend the growing season, but also protect your plantings from diseases such as powdery mildew.

A few tips for gardeners:

• in order not to burn the plants themselves, it is best to water the cucumbers with a watering can without a sprayer, pouring the solution between the plants;
• fertilizing preferably in cloudy weather.

Knowing which fertilizer is best for cucumbers, you can rejuvenate the plants by preventing the appearance on the leaves yellow spots, it will also help you improve photosynthesis.

Combining outside root dressing using humus and needles under the root system of cucumbers, you will significantly extend the fruiting period.

Fertilizers for cucumbers in a greenhouse: from theory to practice

Plant nutrition in a greenhouse is somewhat different from the technique used when working with cucumbers in the open field. It is also carried out several times, while it is important to observe the normalization and dosage of fertilizers. So, for example, cucumbers do not tolerate an abundance of chemical and organic dressings, which can disrupt their growth and fruit development. Thus, when moving cucumber seedlings to the greenhouse, fertilizers are used in small doses.

You can also prepare the soil in advance, which should consist of manure and sod land. The mixture is prepared quite simply: a layer of turf up to 15 cm thick is mixed with a layer of manure 25–30 cm thick, sprinkled with phosphorite flour. When working with acidic soil, it is imperative to add lime. Plants planted in such soil will grow much faster, receiving all the nutrients they need.

If work is carried out in greenhouses or greenhouses that have just been put into operation, gardeners recommend the layer-by-layer application of organic matter and soil mixture. First, manure is introduced at the rate of 30 kg per square meter and dig up the soil to a depth of 25 cm. Fresh manure on wood residues is applied to the prepared layer - this mixture will become excellent drainage and improve the nutrition of plant roots. After that, mineral fertilizers can be applied.

Despite the fact that the frequency of top dressing is about two weeks, it is advisable to monitor the condition of the plants - if you see that your cucumbers develop normally even without fertilizers, you can wait a bit with the introduction additional funds. Understanding what fertilizers are needed for cucumbers, do not forget that an excess of such substances can adversely affect both the plant itself and the yield.

nasotke.ru

Soil preparation as a guarantee of a rich harvest of cucumbers

Since cucumbers are crops that are demanding on soil fertility, in order to get a rich harvest, it is best to take care of preparing the site for planting in advance. For cucumbers, loamy or sandy loamy loose soils are best suited, while acidic and heavy soils are of little use for this crop. Cucumbers require a neutral or, in extreme cases, weak acidic soil. Therefore, preparing the soil for planting cucumbers should begin with determining its acidity.

Scheme of growing cucumbers in a greenhouse.

Soil acidity assessment

The acidity of the soil expresses the pH value. So, the land with a neutral reaction necessary for planting cucumbers should have a pH of 7. The lower the pH number, the more acidic the soil and less suitable for cucumbers. A higher pH is indicative of an alkaline soil, which is also unsuitable for the crop.

You can analyze the acidity of the soil in a specialized laboratory. Such an analysis is carried out using a special device, commonly known as the Alyamovsky device. Having bought such a device, an amateur gardener, according to the instructions attached to it, will be able to independently analyze the land in a summer cottage.

There is a more trivial and affordable way for every amateur gardener to assess acidity using litmus paper. Such paper is sold in stores selling chemicals. The "secret" of this method is as follows: a 30-centimeter vertical cut of the soil is made with a shovel. The earth is wetted with distilled or rain water, and then part of the mixture is squeezed in the hand together with litmus paper. The color of litmus paper is compared with a standard control scale, and the acidity of the soil is determined by color matching.

In the absence of the Alyamovsky device and litmus paper, the acidity can be approximately estimated from the weeds growing on the site of the forthcoming planting of cucumbers. Peculiar indicators of acidic soil are plantain, horsetail, oak veronica, pikulnik, sedge, horse sorrel, mint, creeping buttercup, wood lice, Ivan da Marya, heather. In such a plot, the acidity of the soil must be reduced before planting cucumbers. If creeping wheatgrass, field bindweed, coltsfoot, vegetable garden, odorless chamomile and clover grow well on the site, then the soil is either neutral or has a slight level of acid and is quite suitable for whimsical cucumbers.

Application of fertilizers and other substances

Site preparation for planting cucumbers begins in the fall. To saturate the soil layer with minerals, it is necessary to apply fertilizers. With its slight acidity, it is best to use liquid alkaline organic fertilizers. For neutralization hyperacidity land on its site is limed with the introduction of various substances, including slaked lime, dolomite flour, cement dust, chalk, defecation or ash.

With the advent of the first warm spring days, the earth must be dug up to a depth of at least 25 centimeters. After that, the upper, about 12 centimeters, layer of soil is thoroughly mixed with a rake with a layer of humus harvested since autumn. Qualitatively prepared humus is a real “gold” for a gardener and a guarantee of a future harvest. To prepare it, you can use all kinds of organic matter, For example, sawdust, dried grass, fallen leaves, straw, manure, pieces of paper and so on. After watering, the area selected for growing cucumbers is covered with a film for several days so that the earth warms up to at least 150 C.

If, for some reason, soil preparation has not been started since autumn, then a simplified version of spring activities is needed. In this case, the introduction of lime materials must be excluded, it is allowed to apply liquid alkaline organic fertilizers and an increased dose of humus at least a week before sowing seeds or planting seedlings.

Preparing beds for cucumbers

Sowing seeds or planting seedlings should be done only when the threat of frost has passed. In order to get a guaranteed crop of cucumbers, it is best to grow them on a hill, where both good heating of the roots of a thermophilic crop and protection from excess moisture are ensured. That is why, at least a week before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, it is necessary to form beds so that the earth settles somewhat.

When arranging a plot for growing cucumbers, it is optimal to make several beds 20-30 cm high, depending on the type of soil: the heavier it is, the greater the height of the beds. The width of the paths formed between the beds should be at least 0.5 meters. In addition, when using a vertical type of cultivation, in which cucumbers are woven along a grid fixed on a special frame, it is necessary to place the beds in such a way that the grids do not block each other.

With advance preparation of beds, they must be watered and weeds removed, since cucumbers cannot stand their presence.

ParnikiTeplicy.com

Top dressing cucumbers in a greenhouse: some practical tips

For getting good harvest greenhouse cucumbers, it is necessary not only to clearly maintain the temperature and humidity conditions in the greenhouse, but also to provide the plants with all the nutrients they need for their life and fruiting.

Cucumbers are plants with very high speed growth and maturation, but at the same time, their root system is rather weak, which is why the price of most mistakes is quite high - a loss in the quality and quantity of the crop.

The following minerals are most important for optimal growth and fruiting of cucumbers:

• nitrogen;
• potassium;
• phosphorus.

Before moving on to consider the top dressings needed for cucumbers grown in a greenhouse, let's look at how to prepare the soil in a greenhouse for growing this vegetable crop.

Soil preparation in the greenhouse

Autumn preparation

After the crop has been harvested in the fall, it is very important to thoroughly clean the greenhouse of plant debris and dig up the soil.

For disinfection, all metal, wooden parts, glass in greenhouses must be treated with a solution of bleach, which is diluted at the rate of 300 g per 10 liters of water, after which they insist about 3-4 hours. The aqueous part of the solution is used for spraying, and the sediment is used for treating cracks.

Then the soil must be dug up, introducing 1 bucket of rotted manure, humus or compost per square meter. After that, on 1m2, add 300-500 g dolomite flour or fluff lime, to reduce the acidity of the soil.

spring preparation

In the spring, the soil in the greenhouse is dug up again, bringing in for digging:

• 20-30g of ammonium nitrate;
• 20 g of potassium sulfate;
• 20-30g of superphosphate.

Fertilizers must be applied at least a week before planting cucumbers in the greenhouse. (See How to Choose the Right Cucumber Fertilizer)

After the soil in the greenhouse has been fertilized and dug up, it must be carefully shed warm water, it is possible with a small amount of potassium permanganate ( 1-3g per 10 liters of water), then cover with a dense transparent film, which is removed only before planting.

Let us consider in more detail when and how to feed the cucumbers in the greenhouse, so that the harvest at the end of the season will please with its quality and quantity.

Top dressing of greenhouse cucumbers

Cucumbers grown in a greenhouse are fed for summer season 4-5 times. During the development of shoots and leaves, this vegetable crop needs nitrogen fertilizers. In the phase of flowering and fruit set, cucumbers need to be fed with fertilizers with a high phosphorus content. During active fruiting, cucumbers need potash and nitrogen fertilizers.

Based on the nutritional needs of cucumbers, it is necessary to plan and carry out feeding cucumbers in the greenhouse with various types of fertilizers.

Important: any top dressing in a greenhouse or greenhouse should be applied in small quantities, as cucumbers do not tolerate excess fertilizer. Cucumbers are best fed with aqueous solutions of fertilizers, which are more easily absorbed by plants. It is better to underfeed this crop than to overfeed with fertilizers.

Root top dressing

The first top dressing of cucumbers in the greenhouse is carried out when the plants already have 3 and 4 true leaves. For this top dressing, dilute in 10 liters of water:

• 20-25 g of double superphosphate;
• 15-20 g of potassium sulfate, or 10-15 g of potassium chloride;
• 10-15g of ammonium nitrate.

The resulting working solution is used to feed 10-15 plants.

The next top dressing of cucumbers in a greenhouse or greenhouse is carried out 15-20 days after the first fertilization, since it is at this time that the plants begin to bloom en masse and form ovaries.

For this top dressing, it is better to use organic fertilizers, such as bird droppings or mullein. 0.5 liters of liquid mullein and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska is dissolved in 10 liters of water. It is desirable to add to this solution:

• 1 glass of ash or 50 g of potassium sulfate;
• 0.5 g of boric acid;
• 0.3 g of manganese sulfate.

Water the plants according to 3l working solution for each 1m2.

Tip: if you do not have any organic fertilizers, then the second top dressing can be carried out with mineral fertilizers: you just need to increase the amount of potash and reduce the amount of nitrogen fertilizers.

A couple of weeks after the second feeding, the third feeding is carried out. For her dissolve 1-2st. spoons and ½ spoon of liquid mullein in 10 liters of water. The prepared solution is consumed at 7-8 liters per square meter.

The fourth top dressing can be carried out after 14 days with the same solution.

Throughout the growing season, you need to continue fertilizing cucumbers, preferably combining watering (See Watering cucumbers in a greenhouse) and top dressing, at least 1 time per week. Top dressing of cucumbers in greenhouses can be carried out with both organic and humic fertilizers, for example, sodium humate.

Foliar top dressing

Thinking over how and how to feed cucumbers in a greenhouse, it is worth considering a system of foliar top dressing.

In addition to complex fertilizers, it is necessary to add a complex of trace elements to solutions for foliar dressings. You can use both ready-made complex fertilizers, and cook them yourself.

For 10 liters of water take:

• superphosphate - 60g;
• potassium nitrate - 30g:
• boric acid - 1g;
• manganese sulfate - 0.4 g;
• zinc sulfate - 0.1 g.

Tip: you can carry out foliar feeding with a 1.5% solution of urea, diluting 150g in 10 liters of water.

Video feeding cucumbers in a greenhouse will help you understand this issue in more detail.

Signs of deficiency or excess of minerals

Cucumbers react quite quickly to a lack or excessive amount of certain nutrients.

If the plants began to lag behind in development and growth, the fruits are poorly tied and develop, then in this way they “signal” insufficient or malnutrition.

Nitrogen

In the event that there is insufficient nitrogen content in the soil, then:

• cucumber fruits become, regardless of the variety, a light green color;
• the top of the fruit, where the flower was, is very narrow and sharp, can acquire a "beak-like" shape;
• old leaves of the lower level turn yellow;
• the growth of lateral shoots and the stems themselves slows down.

Important: before you start applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers, analyze whether you are watering cucumbers regularly and enough. When the soil dries out, beneficial microorganisms living in the soil become less active and plants cannot get nitrogen in the form available to them.

If signs of nitrogen starvation are found, which are demonstrated by cucumbers in a greenhouse, top dressing can be carried out both root and foliar with an aqueous solution of urea or ammonium sulfate, dissolving 10-15 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.

If a lack of nitrogen manifests itself during the active ripening of fruits, then it is better than feeding cucumbers in a greenhouse chemicals, carry out top dressing with "brilliant green" or "herbal tea".

Tip: for the preparation of "brilliant green" various weeds from the site are finely chopped and filled with water. For 10 liters of water, 1.5-2 kg of green mass will be required. Chopped grass, filled with water, is left for a week for fermentation, after which it can be used to feed cucumbers.

Zelenka or herbal tea

Potassium

Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers at the beginning of the season can provoke potassium starvation in cucumbers in the second half of summer.

Potassium deficiency manifests itself:

• excessive development and growth of lashes and leaves;
• changing the color of the leaves to dark green;
• the edges of the leaves of the lower tier begin to lighten, a yellowish border appears, which you can see in the photo;

• fruits are pear-shaped.

To eliminate the lack of potassium, you can carry out both root and foliar top dressing with an aqueous solution of potassium sulfate, or root top dressing of cucumbers with a solution wood ash.

Phosphorus

When plants are deficient in phosphorus, then:

• the growth of lateral lashes and leaves slows down;
• new leaves are much smaller than the old ones;
• The color of the new leaves is darker, they quickly dry out.

To eliminate phosphorus deficiency, you can use solutions of ammophos and diammophos, or dilute 1st. a spoonful of superphosphate in 10 liters of water and carry out root dressing of cucumbers.

Thus, as you understand, a single and suitable instruction for all situations that arise when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse simply does not exist. It is necessary to carefully monitor the growth and condition of plants, and make a decision about how to feed cucumbers in a greenhouse or greenhouse, based on this.

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Fertilizers for cucumbers in a greenhouse: which ones to choose, when and how to fertilize

Cucumber is a crop that places very high demands on soil fertility. In order to form a good crop of cucumbers in a greenhouse, you will need abundant and varied feeding with nutrients.

Let us consider how such top dressing is performed at various periods of cucumber development.

Stages of feeding cucumbers depending on the periods of their growth

There are the following stages of feeding for cucumbers:

1. Top dressing at the stage of seedling germination: preparation of soil for seedlings; after the appearance of the first leaf on the sprout; after the appearance of the second leaflet on the sprout; two weeks after the first feeding.
2. Top dressing before transplanting seedlings into beds. Transplantation is a strong stress for immature cucumber plants, therefore, a few days before this procedure, it is advisable to spray them with a solution of trace elements and feed them.
3. Top dressing during growth and flowering.
4. Top dressing during the fruiting period.

Before transplanting into beds, seedlings should be sprayed with a solution of trace elements and fed

At each of the above growth periods, feeding cucumbers has its own characteristics.

Feeding cucumber seedlings

Cucumber seedlings are grown in boxes for a month, and then the sprouted seedlings are planted in a greenhouse. But if the greenhouse is made of polycarbonate and is well heated, then it is not necessary to plant seedlings beforehand. It is planted directly in the greenhouse, highlighting a certain area, and then distributed among the beds. To ensure the most comfortable conditions for seedlings, crops are additionally covered with a PE film.

Cucumber seedlings are fed with solutions of a mixture of superphosphate, cow dung and ammonium nitrate

Since the seeds of cucumbers are planted at a not very great depth, the substances necessary for plant growth hardly reach it from the soil. Therefore, for the top layer of soil for seedlings, you need to prepare good compost. It is also not bad to add ordinary manure to the ground for seedlings at the rate of 6 to 8 kg per 1 sq.m with the addition of one glass of ash to this volume.

Cucumber seedlings are fed with solutions of a mixture of superphosphate, cow dung and ammonium nitrate, which, although very useful for the plant, is a source of nitrates dangerous to humans. There are special fertilizers for cucumbers, which do not contain nitrate nitrogen. In general, sprouted cucumber seedlings are fed only three times in accordance with the above division into periods of its growth.

Top dressing during the growth and flowering of cucumbers

Not yet flowering and not fruiting cucumbers need to be fed with both nitrogen and phosphorus and calcium fertilizers, as well as, to some extent, potassium.

Greenhouse cucumbers are supposed to be fed up to five times during the entire growth period.

Nitrogen fertilizers (preferably without nitrate nitrogen content) are needed for cucumbers in almost all periods of their development and growth, but especially in initial period vegetation to produce leaves. top dressing nitrogen fertilizers carried out in three ways:

• method of root dressing by watering,
• way foliar feeding by spraying,
• way drip irrigation plants.

Cucumbers are fed with phosphorus little by little, but constantly, because without it the root system does not grow and function normally, the green mass does not grow and the fruits do not normally set and ripen. Proper and timely application of phosphorus in fertilizers helps the formation of cucumber flowers.

Potassium is necessary for cucumbers, because with its deficiency, nutrients do not move well from the root system to other parts of the plants and normal vegetation does not occur.

If cucumbers develop well, then you can feed them only twice.

Greenhouse cucumbers are supposed to be fed up to five times during the entire growth period. The first before the start of the flowering stage is fertilizing with a solution of mullein in the volume of a glass per bucket of water, with the addition of superphosphate, as well as potassium sulfate in the mixture, in the amount of one teaspoon per glass with dissolved mullein.

The subsequent stages of top dressing are done at intervals of up to two weeks. The proportion of mullein per bucket of water is reduced to half a glass, and instead of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, nitrophoska is taken in a glass of mullein solution in a volume of 1 tbsp. spoons.

If cucumbers develop well with a healthy appearance and abundant fruiting, then they can be fed only twice: for the first time - before flowering, for the second time - at the beginning of the fruiting period.

Instead of mullein (bird droppings), you can take ready-made fertilizers, such as "Breadwinner", "Ideal" and "Fertility".

When cucumbers are actively fruiting, increase the amount of potassium applied with fertilizers, while simultaneously reducing the amount of nitrogen.

Feeding during fruiting

Cucumbers with fruits already need a completely different composition of top dressing, it should contain more magnesium, nitrogen and potassium (for example, based on potassium nitrate). It is when cucumbers are actively bearing fruit that they increase the amount of potassium applied with fertilizers, while simultaneously reducing the amount of nitrogen.

The most valuable fertilizer for cucumbers during the fruiting period is potassium nitrate. In addition to the fact that feeding it favorably affects the growth and development of the whole plant, it also improves the taste of cucumbers, removing bitterness. The latter mainly appears due to the small amounts of applied mineral fertilizers. Cucumbers are bitter and if there is an excess of potassium and phosphorus with a lack of nitrogen in the soil.

It is desirable to introduce dressing compositions after all measures have been taken to destroy pests of cucumbers.

An excess of phosphorus leads to general yellowing, the appearance of bright necrotic spots and leaf fall.

Consequences of violations in the dosage of fertilizers

An excess of fertilizers, along with their lack, leads to the fact that the nutrition of cucumbers is disturbed. Signs of an overabundance of any fertilizer are very similar to external signs in the absence of other elements.

• With an excess of nitrogen, delayed flowering is observed. A cucumber plant overfed with nitrogen fertilizers is characterized by a thick stem and many dark green dense leaves.
• An excess of phosphorus leads to general yellowing, the appearance of bright necrotic spots and leaf fall.
• An excess of potassium interferes with the flow of nitrogen and leads to the fact that the growth of the whole plant is delayed.
• Excess calcium causes the appearance of pale necrotic spots on the leaves - interveinal chlorosis.

Top dressing cucumbers (video)

As you can see, fertilizing cucumbers in a greenhouse is an urgent need. The main thing in this matter is to know what and when to give cucumbers, and then their generous harvest will surely please you.

Cucumbers are vegetables traditionally loved by Russians. They are certainly planted on the site by every self-respecting gardener. However, a rather whimsical culture requires careful care - just throwing seeds into the ground, periodically watering the plantings and harvesting a bountiful harvest will not work. Top dressing is a procedure that occupies an important place in the process of growing cucumbers.

Fertilizers are the key to a bountiful harvest

It is almost impossible to grow cucumbers without proper and timely top dressing.

Any soil in a garden with cucumbers, with the exception of black soil, needs additional fertilization to produce a crop. If the bushes are properly fertilized, the bushes will form much faster, the harvest can be harvested earlier, the fruiting period will be significantly “stretched”, resistance to diseases and pests will increase. You can even improve the taste and increase the number of fruits taken from one bush.

The root system of cucumbers is fibrous, superficial, goes into the ground by a maximum of 20 cm. The roots can “pull out” something useful only from the upper layers of the soil, quickly impoverishing them. Top dressing in the form of watering helps to compensate for the resulting deficit. Spraying with an emphasis on the underside of the leaf plate, which is responsible for suction, is also useful.

It is not necessary immediately after transplanting seedlings into the ground to rush to feed cucumber bushes. Give them 12-15 days to adapt, otherwise the root system will not be able to cope with several stresses at the same time.

Top dressing of cucumbers is carried out both with folk remedies and mineral fertilizers - both methods have their adherents, but most often gardeners combine organic and mineral top dressing

Young seedlings are not able to absorb everything that enters the soil, most of the fertilizer will simply disappear. Wait until a few true leaves appear on the bushes. 15–20 minutes before the procedure, cucumbers must be watered with heated water, which has been settled for at least a day.

All cucumbers, regardless of variety, are in dire need of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. But there are other important trace elements as well. With due care for appearance bush and fruits, it is easy to determine what the plantings lack, and what fertilizers are applied too much.

Table: how to determine what cucumbers lack, what is excess

Element	Description
Nitrogen	Stimulates intensive formation of green mass. Nitrogen deficiency leads to the fact that the leaves change color to pale salad, then turn yellow, dry and fall off. With its excess, cucumbers bloom late, the stem and leaves thicken, darken, the leaf plate increases in size. It is not recommended to eat fruits ripened on such bushes - the concentration of nitrates harmful to health in them is increased several times. A significant difference between cucumbers and other crops is that weak nitrogen-containing top dressing can be carried out before the end of the growing season.
Phosphorus	It ensures the normal development of the root system, stimulates the process of fruit set, accelerates their ripening. The lack of phosphorus is recognized by the darkened leaves, cast inky purple. Before falling off, they completely blacken. When an excessive amount of phosphate fertilizers is applied, translucent beige spots appear on the leaves, then they dry and fall.
Potassium	It plays an important role in the transport of nutrients from the roots to the aerial parts of plants. When there is not enough potassium, a pale green border appears along the edge of the leaf plate. Then this place completely dries up and turns brown. If you overdo it, the growth and development of cucumbers will slow down dramatically.
Calcium	Cucumbers do not reach the sizes characteristic of the variety, whole lashes wither and dry. The tip of the sheet bends down, the middle becomes convex - the resulting design looks like a dome.
Magnesium	On top of the old leaves, light green spots appear between the veins. With an excess, the leaves darken, curl along the central vein, the bush practically stops growing.
Iron	With a deficiency, young shoots turn yellow, starting from the top.
Bor	The bush grows significantly less than is generally typical for this variety, the gaps between the leaves on the stem are reduced. Young leaves darken, the edges of the leaf plate fall down. The roots take on an unnatural rusty or brick hue.

The need and frequency of feeding cucumbers is significantly affected by the fact of well-prepared soil in autumn or winter, the quality and characteristics of the soil.

When fertilizing cucumbers with superphosphate, remember that you need to take a simple one twice as much as a double one.

If the leaves turn yellow

Yellowed leaves on cucumber bushes are a problem that every gardener has faced. Before taking any action, you need to establish the cause. Otherwise, the measures you take may not only not bring the desired effect, but also significantly harm the plant.

The list of the most common reasons is quite wide:

• Wrong place. Cucumbers need sunlight and warmer, but the brightest midday rays should not fall on the plants.
• Weather. Sudden frosts, cold cloudy summer. The first especially affects cucumbers growing in open ground. Cover the landings with lutrasil, spunbond, similar breathable material.
• Too much watering. Observe an interval of 2-4 days, depending on weather conditions. In hot weather, spray the leaves daily. Use only warm settled water.
• Lack of moisture. The plant "saves" it by reducing the supply of leaves. To increase the humidity in the greenhouse, the walls are sprayed from the inside with a weak solution of chalk.
• Obstacles to pollination. In a permanently closed greenhouse, insect access is difficult. When buying, carefully study the description of the varieties - at least one must be self-pollinating. Honey plants planted nearby (dill, borage, hyssop), spraying the leaves with water with sugar or honey, a solution of boric acid, Ovary, Bud preparations will help to attract bees.
• Excess ovaries on the plant. Almost all the nutrients go to future fruits, leaves according to the residual principle. For harmonious development, no more than 20–25 future cucumbers are left on each bush at a time. Many modern hybrids are able to form 4-5 times more. That's why side shoots you need to pinch in a timely manner.
• Chlorophyll deficiency. This indicates pathologies in the development of the plant or a lack of the necessary minerals. Water the plantings with a solution of a complex liquid mineral fertilizer for cucumbers containing nitrogen, iron and magnesium.
• Excessive thickening of the bush. bottom leaves corny lack of light. In principle, yellowness in this case is a normal phenomenon.
• Diseases and pests. In each case, yellowness manifests itself in different ways. Carefully inspect the plant for the presence of pests (the most common are aphids, germ flies, whiteflies, spider mites) or other signs associated with fungal, viral diseases. Then apply suitable insecticides or folk remedies.
• Root rot. The roots affected by the fungus are not able to adequately nourish the plant, the bush dies. The yellowness of the leaves is only one of the accompanying signs. For prevention, proper timely watering is important.
• Plant aging. Every culture has its own growing season, cucumbers are no exception. Nothing can be done about it, you can’t argue against nature.

Video: why cucumber leaves turn yellow

In some cases, the yellowness of the leaves appears even on seedlings. In this case, the reason is most likely low-quality seeds, unsuitable soil for cucumbers, nutrient deficiencies, low temperatures and the presence of sharp drafts in the room.

Yellowness cucumber leaves may be the result of a variety of reasons - first find out what exactly your plantings suffer from

Experienced gardeners, in order to cope with the problem and not harm the plants even more, are advised to use folk remedies.

The most common recipes are:

• 2-3 handfuls onion peel pour 10 liters of water, bring to a boil. After 5-10 minutes, remove from heat, cover tightly with a lid and leave for several hours (preferably for a day). Then the infusion is filtered, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 4 and the plants are watered. " By-effect"- a product containing a complex essential trace elements helps to get rid of many pests.
• A 0.5-liter jar of wood ash is poured into 5 liters herbal infusion. Cut nettle greens, fill the container with it by about a third, then add water to the brim. Future fertilizer is kept in a warm place under a tightly closed lid for 3-4 days. Then they filter and fill them with ashes. Top dressing is well mixed, diluted three times with plenty of water.
• A liter of milk (preferably homemade and in any case unpasteurized) is mixed with 20 ml of iodine and a small amount of small shavings of household or green potassium soap. The resulting solution is sprayed on the underside of the leaves.
• A roll of black bread with cut crusts is poured into 5-7 liters warm water and leave for 8-10 hours. The crumb is ground, put back into the container, add 10 ml of iodine. The liquid is mixed, twice as much water is added, the bushes are sprayed.
• Water and kefir of maximum fat content or whey are mixed in a ratio of 5: 1, the leaves are sprayed.

Fertilizers specially designed for cucumbers are widely used to stimulate fruit set and reduce the number of empty flowers.

What can be fed during fruiting?

During the fruiting of any crops, if possible, use only natural remedies minimizing the amount of added chemicals. At this stage, 2-3 dressings are enough.

Choose one of the following schemes:

• Watering with infusion of cow manure at the beginning of fruiting, distribution of dry rotted manure or humus over the bed after 7–10 days (1 liter per 2 m²), followed by abundant watering and the use of carbamide and superphosphate granules (10–15 g / m² each).
• Watering the beds with a solution of chicken manure (200 ml per 10 liters of water) with the addition of 10–15 g of a complex nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer, in which nitrogen is the least percentage. After 10–15 days, fresh manure (0.5 l) and potassium sulfate (8–10 g) are used, dissolving fertilizers in 10 l of water. After waiting the same amount, they prepare a third dressing, similar to the first. You can also use an infusion of fresh manure. In all cases, the norm per m² is 5 liters.
• Three times the use of a solution of urea (5 g per 10 liters of water). It is impossible to exceed the concentration so as not to harm the health of those who will eat these cucumbers. Immediately after fertilizing, the beds are watered abundantly.
• Infusion of nettle greens, dandelion leaves, plantain or any herb at the beginning of fruiting and potassium nitrate (20-25 g per 10 liters of water) after 2-3 weeks to prolong it.

There are some tricks to prolong fruiting. Cucumbers are watered:

• Infusion of sifted wood ash (a glass of 5 liters of water, insist for a day).
• Infusion of rotted last year's hay (raw materials are crushed, poured three times as much warm water, left for two days).
• Solution baking soda(25–30 g per 10 liters of water).

Yeast fertilizer

The common expression “it grows by leaps and bounds” is not a metaphor or hyperbole, but advice to summer residents, which has every reason. Cucumbers really sharply add in growth. For top dressing, both pressed fresh yeast and dry powdered ones are suitable. A significant advantage of the product is its absolute naturalness. The benefits of the product for plants are determined by its unique composition. Yeast is a unique combination of amino acids, sugars, vitamins and phytohormones, as well as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. The benefit of the product is to stimulate cell division and differentiation of their functions.

Yeast is a completely natural product sold in any store, successfully used by gardeners as a universal fertilizer.

Feeding with yeast makes cucumbers more resistant to the vagaries of the weather, diseases and pests due to the “shock” dose of vitamins, stimulates the development of the root system, reduces the growth time of cucumber bushes, accelerates the process of ovary and fruit ripening.

As in all other cases, it is important to know the measure, observing a certain frequency of feeding. If you fertilize more than once every 10 days, you can harm the plantings. The optimal interval is 14–16 days. During the summer, at least 4–5 top dressings are carried out, starting when the earth warms up enough and the likelihood of return frosts is minimized. Depending on the region, this is the beginning or the second half of May.

Excess yeast greatly impoverishes the soil and causes a supersaturation of plants with nitrogen. As a result, you have powerful spreading bushes with an almost complete absence of cucumbers.

Yeast is not a universal replacement for other fertilizers. It's more of an addition to them. So don't rely on them alone.

Fertilizer is prepared as follows:

• Five packs of pressed yeast are cut into small pieces, pour 5 liters of heated water up to 30-35ºС water. The liquid is stirred until the yeast dissolves, left in a warm place for 3-4 hours. After this time, the fertilizer is intensively mixed again, its volume is adjusted to 50 liters. The norm per plant is 0.5 liters.
• A bag of dry yeast (8–10 g) is mixed with 50 g of sugar, dissolved in a liter of warm water. Fertilizer is infused for 1.5–2 hours, diluted with water before use, increasing the volume to 20–25 liters.

As an addition to yeast experienced gardeners recommend using freshly cut grass, nettle greens, potato tops. Yeast is poured not with plain water, but with a pre-prepared infusion of the indicated ingredients.

In the absence of yeast on hand and the need to urgently feed the cucumbers, you can replace the raw materials with ordinary bread of any kind, soaked in water and squeezed. The liquid is used as fertilizer.

As you know, when baking most types of bread, yeast is used - if there is no bag or briquette at hand, the soaked crumb will be a worthy alternative

In general, you can start garden plot a sufficiently capacious container, fill it halfway with water and throw in stale or moldy bread. Be sure to provide for the presence of a cover - the smell of such a fertilizer is specific. Before using it for its intended purpose, the product is intensively mixed, filtered and half diluted with water.

A bountiful cucumber harvest requires time and effort from the gardener, but it's worth the effort.

Growing cucumbers is a task that even beginner gardeners can handle. Proper application of top dressing, strict adherence to the recommended dosage of natural organics and mineral fertilizers will help to get the maximum possible yield. Better to underfeed than overfertilize. Cucumbers are quite demanding in their care, but nothing can compare with the taste of home-grown vegetables - this is a worthy reward for the gardener for his work.