Indoor pepper light fall leaves. Why do pepper ovaries fall off? Top dressing of pepper - root and foliar Pepper sheds ovaries
Gardeners often wonder why pepper flowers fall off. This usually happens in July. It is important to prevent this unpleasant phenomenon, otherwise there is a risk of being left without a crop. Let's find out the reasons together.
The main reasons for shedding flowers are:
Pepper is a photophilous plant, sunlight is vital for it. Moreover, it is necessary to provide pepper with light at all stages of development - from sowing seeds to harvesting. Otherwise, its development is inhibited, and fruiting falls. If we are talking about the plant in open field, then there are no such problems. But what if you are growing your peppers in a greenhouse? In this case, you need to use additional light sources (lamps, lanterns, etc.).
Thus, proper care of peppers is the key to healthy plant development and a good harvest. If you doubt the correctness of your actions, then it is better to consult with specialists or gardeners who have extensive experience in growing this vegetable. Show care and patience, and then the problem of why pepper flowers fall will bypass you. Have a rich harvest!
Why does the ovary fall in peppers?
Often in July, gardeners and gardeners complain about falling pepper ovaries. Let's try to figure out what is the reason for such an unpleasant phenomenon, because without eliminating it, you can be left without a crop.
Pepper is very picky about air humidity. Optimal Humidity for him 60-70%. Higher or lower humidity, accompanied by increased temperature, causes the flowers and ovaries to fall off. It is necessary to monitor the level of humidity, not allowing it to rise above the optimum, for which greenhouses are ventilated. To increase the humidity of the air, you can spray water with a sprayer or spill the soil and adjacent paths from a watering can.
Pepper is especially demanding on the structure and fertility of the soil. Grows well and bears fruit in light, humus-rich soils containing nutrients in an easily accessible form. Nitrogen plays an important role in nutrition, which improves the growth of vegetative organs - roots, stems, leaves. With its lack, growth slows down. An excess of nitrogen causes violent growth of stems and leaves to the detriment of the formation and ripening of fruits. Phosphorus has a beneficial effect on the growth of the root system, on accelerating the formation of ovaries and fruits. Potassium is necessary during the entire vegetation of the plant, it increases the resistance of the plant to cold, accelerates the ripening of fruits.
Two or three times during the growing season, I practice foliar feeding - 0.1-0.2% solution of calcium nitrate, which contributes to the growth of good fruits.
When signs of blossom end rot appear on the fruits, foliar top dressing with calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 l of water) will again help out. It is used twice with a break in a week. Apply the same solution under the root after watering (1-2 liters per plant).
The preservation of the ovaries on the plant will also be facilitated by such an agricultural technique as regular forced pollination by shaking the plants in the morning.
Causes of fall of the ovary of peppers
Lack of light. Plants, without further ado, drop flowers and ovaries. Because part of the flowers with a lack of light is not fertilized.
Too much light. In the summer, in July, peppers suffer greatly from an excess of light. It is good when they are shaded at noon from the sun with a shadow, for example, from tomato bushes. You can throw dampened newspaper on top. If this is not done, the plants may drop buds.
Air temperature over 35 degrees is unacceptable. If the weather is very hot at the end of June-July, you can use this technique: cover the surface of the soil under the bushes with a layer of grass from the lawn. This layer protects the soil from drying out, from compaction, from overheating, besides, it provides additional nutrition to the bushes. Before the end of June, it is not necessary to cover the soil with grass, you need to wait for the soil to warm up in the entire root habitat layer.
In July, on warm nights, you can leave the greenhouse open for the night. In general, my greenhouse is designed in such a way that the roof can be completely removed without difficulty, which I do in July. In hot weather, day and night, the greenhouse stands without a roof, so the temperature there does not rise above 30 degrees.
Why pepper ovaries fall, pepper dressing - root and foliar
How to save the future crop of a heat-loving crop
Often in July, gardeners and gardeners complain about falling ovaries of pepper. Let's try to figure out what is the reason for such an unpleasant phenomenon, because without eliminating it, you can be left without a crop.
Everyone knows well that pepper is extremely picky about light- he needs abundant sunlight from the moment the shoots appear until the end of the growing season. Insufficient lighting during the seedling period adversely affects not only the quality of the seedlings, but later on the growth and development of the vegetative and reproductive organs, and ultimately on the crop. Here is the first reason for the fall of the ovaries.
Water in the greatest amount is necessary for pepper during the fruiting period.. During the growing season, it is demanding on the presence of water and at the same time does not tolerate its excess. With a lack of moisture in the soil, some of the buds and ovaries fall off, the yield decreases. With excess moisture root system suffers from air deficiency. As a result, the growth and development of the plant is suspended.
Pepper is very picky about air humidity.. The optimum humidity for it is 60-70%. Higher or lower humidity, accompanied by increased temperature, causes the flowers and ovaries to fall off. It is necessary to monitor the level of humidity, not allowing it to rise above the optimum, for which greenhouses are ventilated. To increase the humidity of the air, you can spray water with a sprayer or spill the soil and adjacent paths from a watering can.
Pepper is especially demanding on the structure and fertility of the soil.. Grows well and bears fruit in light, humus-rich soils containing nutrients in an easily accessible form. Nitrogen plays an important role in nutrition, which improves the growth of vegetative organs - roots, stems, leaves. With its lack, growth slows down. An excess of nitrogen causes violent growth of stems and leaves to the detriment of the formation and ripening of fruits. Phosphorus has a beneficial effect on the growth of the root system, on accelerating the formation of ovaries and fruits. Potassium is necessary during the entire vegetation of the plant, it increases the resistance of the plant to cold, accelerates the ripening of fruits.
During the growing season, plants need to be fed twice a month.. preferably alternating mineral and organic top dressing. Part mineral supplement include ammonium nitrate or urea (15-20 g per 10 liters of water), double superphosphate(40-50 g), potassium sulfate(20-30 g). All of these mineral fertilizers can be replaced with complex ones, for example, azofoska - 30-50 g per 10 liters of water. After two weeks, the plants can be fed with an organic solution (mullein 1:8, bird droppings 1:15).
Two or three times during the growing season I practice foliar feeding- 0.1-0.2% solution calcium nitrate. which promotes the growth of good fruits.
When signs appear on the fruit blossom end rot again, foliar top dressing with calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water) will help out. It is used twice with a break in a week. Apply the same solution under the root after watering (1-2 liters per plant).
If there is no calcium nitrate, you can shed the beds chalk suspension- a glass per plant. Stir one - two tablespoons per 1 liter of water. Chalk that has not gone into the soil will go away with subsequent watering.
In the absence of calcium nitrate (unfortunately, it is rarely on sale), a 0.3-0.4% solution can be used for foliar feeding. calcium chloride. which is sold in pharmacies without a prescription.
The preservation of the ovaries on the plant will also be facilitated by such an agrotechnical technique as regular carrying out forced pollination by shaking plants in the first half of the day.
Viktor Felk, expert gardener, Petrozavodsk, Karelia
All about why pepper flowers fall
September 17, 2013
Water is the source of life for all organisms, and peppers are no exception. If the soil dries out, then the flowers fall off. Therefore, it is necessary to provide pepper with water to the full, especially during flowering and fruiting. But an excess of water should not be allowed, otherwise the root system will suffer, which is fraught with its decay and deterioration of the general condition of the plant.
Incorrect and untimely feeding of peppers during the growing season is one of the main reasons for the fall of flowers. It should be done at least twice a month. Alternate mineral fertilizers with organic. The soil itself should also be fertile, light, nutritious, rich in humus. To feed it, use nitrogen (just don’t overdo it, otherwise it will lead to the growth of the bush, and the fruits will only suffer), phosphorus (it has a good effect on the roots, nourishes the ovaries, accelerates the ripening of fruits), potassium (helps to survive cold snaps and is generally useful at all stages of growth pepper).
In a greenhouse, natural pollination is almost impossible, so you need to do it manually. Shake the plants in the morning to pollinate them. Or you can use the grandmother's way. To do this, tear off one flower from the strongest bush and just poke it into other flowers. Before this procedure, it is advised to ventilate the room, and after completion - to increase the humidity of the air by spraying water on the walls.
Pepper care and cultivation
cultivation
Such indoor plant, as a pepper is a shrub descended from species growing in the undergrowth. Despite the fact that these varieties grow in shading conditions, there are certain nuances of growing them in an apartment.
When growing ornamental peppers, it must be remembered that they come from the south. Therefore, for him, the combination of conditions such as cloudy weather and short daylight hours is a real test. The plant tolerates a lack of light especially hard in the period from November to January. If there is little light, then the pepper stops growing and blooming. At the same time, the answer to the question “why do pepper flowers fall” will be a lack of light. With a short light day, the plant begins to shed not only flowers, but also leaves. In connection with such a need, in winter, pepper grown at home must be additionally illuminated. To do this, use phytolamps (the light source can be anything). Remember, this culture needs 12 hours of daylight.
Being a perennial plant, pepper, subject to proper care can live in the house for up to 10 years. Care for it begins at the stage of soil preparation.
When preparing the soil, remember that pepper loves slightly acidic soil (pH 6.5-7). Therefore, for the manufacture of the soil mixture, it is necessary to use the following ingredients:
When the soil mixture is ready, it must be poured into the selected container. However, before that, clean gravel or garden expanded clay must be placed on the bottom of the pot. The layer thickness is 2-3 cm. This will create good drainage. Some flower growers advise adding humus and compost, as well as river sand, to the nutrient soil.
Planting seeds is carried out randomly. After that, they must be sprinkled with a small layer of soil that has been sifted. Usually the first shoots appear on the 15th day after sowing the seed. After their appearance, you need to pinch the top to prevent the shoot from stretching. Picking is usually carried out a month after sowing the seeds.
Peppers grown in an apartment or house should have the following care:
If the care of the plant is correct, then it will bloom with small white flowers. During this period, indoor pepper acquires a particularly spectacular and decorative appearance.
It should be noted that the formation of fruits does not require artificial pollination. When the crop has been harvested, it is necessary to rejuvenate the pepper. For this, it is transplanted into new land. Transplantation should be carried out carefully so as not to damage the root system.
It is recommended to transplant the plant into new soil and into a pot every three years. During transplantation, it is necessary to remove too powerful and old shoots. Pruning will make decorative pepper not only fruitful, but also beautiful.
If the care of the bush was wrong, then various diseases may appear on it. Especially often diseases develop due to improper watering or insufficient lighting.
As you can see, pepper is an easy crop to grow at home. The main thing is to create the right conditions for it.
Video "Description"
From the video you will learn a lot of interesting things about this indoor vegetable.
Varieties of varieties
It must be understood that pepper in a pot is a purely conditional thing. Since anyone can grow in such conditions hot peppers, which has suitable bush sizes and easy care. Therefore, hot pepper for growing at home can be of any kind. You can choose from varieties designed for growing in open or closed ground.
When choosing a variety, it is necessary to remember the existence of Nightshade or "Jerusalem Cherry". The fruits of this plant are poisonous.
In addition to the above species at home, you can grow the following varieties:
K especially decorative varieties Peppers include the following varieties:
- Variegatta. The bush has a variegated color of the leaf plate;
- SHU. Variegated color of leaves is characteristic;
- Purple tiger. A small bush on which small light purple fruits are formed. The species is characterized by variegated color of the leaves;
- Salsa Orange. Most popular variety, which is distinguished from others by its small orange pods. Has a great resemblance to the Light;
- Rowanberry. The most interesting variety. It has multi-colored small fruits-peas. They outwardly resemble a rowan brush. The bush consists of slightly twisted leaves-boats.
- pinching the central root when growing seedlings densely. Of course, pinching will not lead to the death of the plant, but it will move away from it for a long time;
- when pests appear on the bush, it should not be thrown away. By itself, pepper is a repeller of many types of insects. If they are present, the bush just needs to be treated with soapy water. You can use hot peppercorns filled with warm water to control pests;
- in dry climates, spider mites may appear on pepper bushes. To combat it, simply increase the humidity of the air. With a large invasion of this pest, you need to use Fitoverm. It's a drug plant origin and does not pose a danger to the plant and its fruits.
- the soil to the depth of the palm warmed up to +15 degrees Celsius; the air warmed up to +18.
- Lighting failure. Pepper is picky about good lighting, however, daylight hours should be no more than twelve hours a day. This is the time required for the formation of peduncles. That is why any fluctuations in this parameter can cause the plant to drop flowers.
- Insufficient soil fertility. When growing peppers in a greenhouse, not all soils are suitable. Sweet and hot peppers grow well on structured soil enriched with vermicompost. On initial stage development, nitrogen and phosphorus should be added to the soil, the lack of which adversely affects flowering.
- very high daytime temperatures that exceed 35 degrees;
- very low temperatures at night;
- overabundance in greenhouse soil nitrogen fertilizers;
- waterlogging of greenhouse soil;
- low light level or short daylight hours;
- low humidity and the presence of too dry air in the greenhouse;
- insufficient air circulation;
- poor quality water used for irrigation.
- temperature regime in the greenhouse facility;
- correct irrigation - it is preferable to install a high-quality drip irrigation system for plants that does not overmoisten the soil and delivers the required amount of water and liquid fertilizers directly to the root system;
- the quantity and quality of top dressing carried out through organic and mineral fertilizers.
- often occurring sharp temperature changes in the greenhouse structure;
- prolonged rainy or cold weather, which does not allow ventilation through vents and doors;
- insufficient amount of lighting;
- lack of potash fertilizers or boron in the greenhouse soil;
- the presence of a significant amount of condensate, which provokes an increase in the humidity of pollen;
- temperatures above thirty degrees, which causes complete sterility of pollen.
- inability to move easily and comfortably;
- discomfort when going up and down stairs;
- unpleasant crunch, clicking not of their own free will;
- pain during or after exercise;
- inflammation in the joints and swelling;
- causeless and sometimes unbearable aching pain in the joints.
These are not all varieties that can be grown indoors. However, they are the most popular.
Common Mistakes
When growing pepper in an apartment, you need to be aware of the most common mistakes in order not to make them. Otherwise, the bush is attacked by various diseases. Not always the fight against them, even begun immediately after the discovery of the first signs of malaise, will be able to save the plant from death.
The very first mistake that inexperienced flower growers make is non-compliance with the water regime. The plant should not be watered with cold water. Such watering will lead to decay of the root system.
Since pepper is a heat-loving crop, it needs to be watered only with water at room temperature.
When placing the pot near heating systems, watering should be carried out every other day, as the earth will dry out quickly enough. In such conditions, it is recommended to install a container of water near the pot for evaporation. Under normal conditions, this procedure is carried out twice a week.
In addition to improper watering, the most common mistakes include the following points:
If the pot was for some time on the loggia or in the summer greenhouse, then when transferred to the house, the pepper may begin to shed its leaves. This situation reflects the lack of light. To solve the problem, it is necessary to install additional lighting. If you do not need flowering, you can simply drastically cut the shoots to about 1/3, and also stop heavy watering. However, remember that in such a situation, the soil should not be allowed to dry out.
Useful properties and application
Home grown indoor peppers can be used as an ingredient in a variety of dishes. It can be used to prepare hot sauces, seasonings. But it is also allowed to add it during canning.
Hot pepper pods are an excellent appetite stimulant. This plant is considered medicinal, as it is part of many medicinal tinctures. They are prescribed for violations of the gastrointestinal tract, sciatica and neuralgia. They are also actively used to prevent burns. But remember that pepper tinctures cannot be used for diseases of the pancreas and liver.
Pepper is a very popular crop, which today is actively grown not only in greenhouses and open ground, but also at home. To get a good harvest, as well as a beautiful appearance of the bush itself, you must follow the simple rules of care, as well as know the most common mistakes. In general, caring for peppers at home is quite simple.
Why does the eggplant color fall in the greenhouse
Eggplants, peppers and tomatoes, as typical representatives of nightshade plants, are quite finicky, and excellent seedlings do not always guarantee a high yield. Buds, flowers or ovaries can simply crumble.
Common reasons
Solanaceae can be left without flowers due to boron deficiency. Its lack is manifested in the slow growth of greenhouse culture. This problem is solved by spraying (5 g boric acid on a bucket of water) or by applying boron fertilizers to the soil (no more than once every three years). Boric acid is a microfertilizer that contains boron, an essential element for plants throughout the growing season. You risk losing flowers and buds if you organize them incorrectly watering nightshade, break the light and forget to feed them with micro and macro elements.
What do eggplants need?
Not every gardener will take the liberty of growing eggplant just because of their capriciousness: the plant will get rid of buds, flowers and ovaries in an instant if you show negligence. It is believed that eggplant is a very capricious fruit, but in fact it just needs lots of light and warmth. This vegetable comes from Southeast Asia. Eggplant has heavy pollen, and therefore this crop needs dry air for productive fertilization. At high humidity Pollen does not "knock out" even with the recommended shaking of plants. Arm yourself with a thick drawing brush - with it you will deliver pollen to the pistils. Temperature is another determining factor. Plant seedlings if:
The optimum temperature for eggplant growth is +25°C during the day and +15°C at night. If the plant becomes chilly, you will not wait for buds and ovaries. However, the plant can slow down growth, throw off buds, not give ovaries even in a very hot microclimate, if the thermometer in the greenhouse “creeps” above +35 ° C. Chaotic watering and, as consequently, lack of moisture is another good reason for eggplant to drop flowers, buds and tender ovaries. The “blue ones” are very fond of water, but they should not overdo it with watering: the plant can get sick. Eggplant is a child of the sun, and many agronomists rightly believe that the ovary on this nightshade crop appears only when a direct sunbeam hits the flower. Eggplants even suffer from the shadow cast by a neighbor in the garden, and if you do not guess to provide the plant with light, in protest it will show you its discarded buds. Do not forget also that fallen flowers and buds can be the work of a spider mite. Its destructive activity in the form of whitish dots on eggplant leaves is visible to the naked eye.
Why eggplant buds fall (video)
Also read
How to grow eggplant in a greenhouse. Eggplant care in the greenhouse
An exotic native of India, eggplant is a delicious and incredibly healthy vegetable that has long won the love and respect of domestic gardeners. It is quite difficult to grow it in the temperate latitudes of Russia.
This gentle southerner reacts even to small temperature changes, so optimal solution is planting eggplant in a greenhouse. IN closed space excellent conditions are created for the development and growth of vegetables, similar to the humid tropical heat of Burma and India. Let's talk about how to grow eggplant in a greenhouse, what questions may arise and how to care for plants.
Rules for growing eggplant
The main condition for the proper development of eggplant is growing them separately from other crops. The only exception is tomatoes. This is the only portable neighborhood.
Eggplant puts forward special requirements at almost all stages of development: when preparing the soil, planting seedlings, irrigating and maintaining temperature regime. But the efforts of gardeners are rewarded with a magnificent harvest of the legendary "blue", until recently inaccessible, but today very familiar in Russian gardens. We will carefully consider each wish of the handsome eggplant and learn how to get along well with him.
Soil preparation
Eggplant care in a greenhouse begins with soil preparation. It is necessary to take care of the soil, since the eggplant is demanding and very capricious, it is sensitive to the composition of the soil and must be planted in properly prepared soil.
The soil in the greenhouse is needed. update by removing fragments of roots and remnants of above-ground parts of plants;? disinfect by dissolving 60 g blue vitriol in 10 liters of water. After completing all the steps, let the earth dry out and dig a shovel onto the bayonet. Eggplant does not accept acidic soils.
To reduce acidity, it is necessary to add dolomite flour in the amount of 50-60 g per 1 sq. meter. Fertilizers are necessary for good development of eggplants. The best top dressing, of course, is organic - manure or compost humus.
It is added to the soil before planting at the rate of 0.5 buckets per 1 sq. meter. In addition to organic, complex mineral fertilizers with a balanced composition of nitrogen and phosphorus supplements are also needed. Another condition necessary for the successful rooting of seedlings is that eggplants need to be planted in the ground warmed up to +15 ° C.
We plant seedlings
When answering the question of how to grow eggplant in a greenhouse, it should be remembered that, in addition to soil preparation, there are many different nuances. Well-dug and cultivated soil in the greenhouse should be leveled before planting.
Then it is necessary to mark the holes with a depth of 10-15 cm, maintaining an interval of 45-50 cm between them. The row spacing is 60 cm. wood ash.
It is important to control the temperature of the soil and air in the greenhouse. Planting should be carried out when the soil warms up to +15 ° C, and the air - up to + 18-20 ° C. Eggplant seedlings require careful handling - they are very fragile.
Planting plants should be carefully, trying not to damage the delicate root system. Before planting the seedlings in the ground, they are pre-watered so that it is more convenient to take them out of the containers, and the clod of earth on the roots does not crumble.
The seedling should be planted a little deeper than the level at which it was in the cassette or container. Upon completion of planting, the soil is compacted and watered again.
How to water eggplant in a greenhouse
Having completed the initial stage, proceed to the next. It starts with watering, which is very important for the culture. Eggplants love water, so they need to be watered regularly.
If a moisture deficiency occurs, the flowers will begin to crumble, and the fruits will significantly lose their quality and size. The main condition for irrigation: the water must be warm, its temperature is not less than + 23 ° C.
Usage cold water can nullify all efforts to grow vegetables. The first watering is carried out after 5 days after planting.
Subsequently, the regularity of watering should correspond to once a week. In the process of watering, eggplant leaves should not be wetted, water should flow under the root. It is necessary to ensure access of water to the roots, it should not drain down the bed.
Therefore, you need to periodically loosen the earth. The frequency and intensity of watering increase when the plant begins to bear fruit: now you need to water it 2 times a week, preventing the soil from drying out.
To obtain a large crop of eggplant in a greenhouse, it is necessary to create ideal conditions: high soil moisture with comfortable humidity air. It is better to water vegetables in the morning and be sure to arrange ventilation. This is necessary to prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases.
top dressing
How to grow eggplant in a greenhouse? In addition to timely watering for good crop development, you need to remember the need for top dressing. For the entire growing season, fertilizers will need to be applied 3-4 times.
The first time the plant is fed 2-3 weeks after planting. The culture during this time manages to take root well and develop a root system that can receive nutrition from the soil. The second top dressing should be carried out before the eggplant blooms.
Until the plants bear fruit, they should be fed with complex universal fertilizers, for example, "Mortar" or "Kemira", dissolving 35-40 g of the product in 10 liters of water. When fruit is set, they switch to nitrogen and phosphorus supplements: 30 g of superphosphate and ammonium nitrate per bucket of water.
For better development eggplant should alternate the application of organic matter with mineral fertilizers, but neither one nor the other can be abused. It should not be forgotten that during the fruiting period, plants are especially vulnerable to various pests. Therefore, from time to time, simple prevention should be carried out: periodically sprinkle the aisles of plants with wood ash.
We observe the temperature regime
Don't forget to keep optimal temperature in a greenhouse. It fluctuates from +25°С to +28°С. Exceeding the 35-degree barrier will result in wilting of the fruit, and lowering to + 13 ° C will stop growth.
Therefore, it is necessary to constantly control the temperature regime: ventilate the greenhouse in hot weather, while avoiding drafts, since the eggplant can lose color, and also insulate when it gets cold, of course, to the extent possible. Failure to follow these rules can seriously affect the yield.
Therefore, answers to questions, for example, about why eggplants wither in a greenhouse, should be sought precisely in the failure to follow the recommendations for growing vegetables. Withering of eggplants can occur due to careless watering, lack of loosening, improper ventilation, or, conversely, a draft that has arisen.
Or maybe the eggplant was the victim of an attack by some disgusting infection. There can be any number of reasons, but in order to exclude the maximum number of them, one must adhere to the indicated conditions.
Special conditions for good development
A few words about greenhouses. With proper care, plants feel good under any shelter. But from a purely practical point of view, eggplants in a polycarbonate greenhouse have more comfortable conditions growth.
In such greenhouses, it is easier to care for them, properly ventilate, water and notice pests in time. Greenhouse crops are always more delicate and fragile than those that grow in the open.
When tying tall eggplant varieties to trellises for the correct formation of a bush, this should not be forgotten. Undersized varieties do not need a garter.
It is not necessary to pinch eggplants; it is enough to remove withered leaves and underdeveloped ovaries from the stem. If eggplants are not tied in a greenhouse, you can help them by dissolving 2 g of boric acid in 10 liters warm water and abundantly spraying the plants.
After some time, you should feed them. The "blue ones" react sharply to the lack of fertilizers. For example, eggplants turn yellow in a greenhouse from a lack of nitrogen, and leaves extended at an acute angle to the stem are a sure sign of phosphorus starvation. Improper planting care - watering with cold water, drafts, too high humidity, as well as untimely nitrogen fertilization can lead to dropping flowers and ovaries.
Eggplant diseases in the greenhouse
Unfortunately, eggplant is a very vulnerable vegetable. He has many enemies, such as tobacco mosaic and late blight. In the fight against them, the preparations "Fitosporin" and "Zircon" have proven themselves well.
Preventive watering with solutions of these products will help protect eggplant from late blight and tobacco mosaic. And pre-sowing treatment of the soil with preparations containing copper will neutralize the earth.
Viral diseases
Eggplants often suffer from Fusarium. This fungal disease detrimental to the plant. The fungus, penetrating into the culture through the root, affects the entire vascular system.
This is why eggplants turn yellow in a greenhouse. This is the first sign of Fusarium. Then the leaves wither and fall off.
Because it is affected vascular system, the plant cannot be saved. On the transverse section of the stem, you can see a change in the color of the vascular ring - it becomes brown, and on the root collar there is a pinkish coating of fungal spores.
Infected seeds may be the cause of the problem. In this case, you will need to change them. Failure to comply with agricultural practices for growing eggplant can also cause various viral infections.
Therefore, the fight against them includes not only the treatment of crops with drugs, but also various agricultural practices. How to grow eggplant in a greenhouse without viral diseases? Let's try to understand what preventive measures should be taken.
Blackleg
The black leg fungus causes thinning and darkening of the root neck. When affected by this virus, the plant begins to gradually fade, and when it passes to the root system, it dies.
Usually the black leg affects seedlings, but it happens that the high soil moisture in the greenhouse awakens a virus that accidentally enters the ground. To avoid such failures, the ground in the greenhouse is completely changed or disinfected with a solution of bleach. And in order to prevent the emergence and development of the black leg, you should not thicken the crops, prevent temperature changes and do not overwater the plants. Affected plants must be removed immediately, the soil loosened and sprinkled with ash.
Mosaic
Mosaic is a disease characterized by variegated mosaic-green coloration and deformation of the leaves, as well as yellow spotting on the fruits. Such a defeat can cause poor-quality seed material or mechanical damage when transplanting seedlings.
Pre-sowing half-hour treatment of seeds with 20% hydrochloric acid will help save plantings from mosaic damage. If a disease is found in a greenhouse, diseased plants must be removed and burned, and garden tools disinfect.
Gray rot
Gray rot appears as dark growing water spots on all above-ground parts of the plant, subsequently forming a gray coating. High humidity in the greenhouse acts as a catalyst for the development of the disease. When eggplant is affected by this fungus, special treatment of plants and soil with fungicides is needed, the removal of infected crops and all plant residues from the greenhouse after harvesting vegetables.
Pests
Eggplant diseases in the greenhouse are caused not only by viruses, but also by pests. Frequent but uninvited guests are slugs, spider mites, whiteflies, Colorado potato beetle and aphids.
The existing drug Strela, which is harmless to humans, is quite effective in pest control and can be used in greenhouses. Eliminates slugs loosening the soil with soil treatment with dry mustard powder or ground pepper mixed with wood ash.
Spoils the mood of gardeners with aphids on eggplants in a greenhouse. Karbofos is used against it, if the fruits have not yet set, or they are sprayed with an infusion of wood ash, which is prepared as follows: 1 cup of ash is infused for a day in 10 liters of water.
Beetles are harvested by hand. Eggplant care in the greenhouse is carried out throughout the season. Maintaining order in the eggplant beds leads to the desired result: the collection of vegetables begins when the size and color inherent in the variety are achieved.
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Why do buds and ovaries crumble in nightshade crops?
In greenhouses on our personal plots, we usually grow nightshade crops - tomatoes, eggplants, peppers. It has been established that their yield depends on the quality of seedlings. Therefore, gardeners have mastered the rules for growing good seedlings.
However, it often happens that a high yield does not work out: beautiful strong plants do not bloom or bloom profusely, but the buds or ovaries crumble. Let's see what causes such troubles.
The most common reason why plants do not bloom or are very late in flowering is overfeeding. nitrogen fertilizers young plants. Plants are just fattening.
If the plants bloom normally, but the flowers dry up and fall off on them, then they simply did not pollinate for one reason or another. Our pets are self-pollinating plants. Self-pollination is most successful when active movement air, which is difficult in the greenhouse.
Therefore, greenhouses must be ventilated, and the plants must be mechanically shaken, tapped on them in one way or another, so that pollen is shaken off the stamens and pollination occurs. In the sun, when tapping on a plant, for example, a tomato, you can see small clouds of flying pollen. All these crops are thermophilic, they require a certain temperature regime.
Its violation leads to crop losses. Violation of the regime of watering, lighting, nutrition leads to the same consequences. For example, with a lack of boron, plants lose flowers before the formation of an ovary - this is a common reason for all these plants.
Plants just need to be fed with boron. This should be done reasonably, because there is evidence that boron is carcinogenic.
If the temperature in the greenhouse exceeds 30-32 degrees, the pollen becomes sterile, it will not fertilize the flower. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the temperature. A thermometer must be hung in the greenhouse at a level of about 1 m from the ground.
Plants do not like it when they begin to deoxidize the soil during their growth. This must be done in advance. However, it happens that pollinated flowers, and rather large ovaries, and even unopened buds also fall.
Here, each culture has its own nuances, although in general the reasons are similar. Let's look at these reasons by culture.
tomatoes
If tomato plants grow violently, but bloom late and very poorly, then you need to add sawdust to the soil, which will draw off excess nitrogen. This is the easiest option. It happens that tomatoes bloom profusely, and we tap and shake them, but the ovaries are still missing.
Most often this is due to low temperatures (below 16 degrees on average per day, when pollen does not ripen), or too high (above 30 degrees). On hot days, you will have to ventilate or shade the greenhouse more often, and on cold days, on the contrary, insulate it by all available means.
Lack of light can also be the cause of a small number of ovaries on the plant. Plants should not be planted too densely. If thickened, it is better to tear out part of the plants: all the same, there will be little sense from them in the sense of the harvest.
Less is better, but better, and the remaining plants will have less chance of getting sick.
Sometimes experienced gardeners compensate for the lack of light with potash supplements, giving them 1.5-2 times more than usual. But here it is important not to overdo it.
To do this, you need to be sure that the soil was not initially saturated with potassium. If the weather is cloudy during flowering, then the fruits usually do not set well, because the pollen becomes heavy and sticky. To improve fruit set, plants are sprayed with a 0.02% solution of boric acid (2 g per 10 l of water).
If the weather does not want to improve, repeat spraying after 2-3 days. You can use the preparations Ovary or Bud - according to the instructions. If, on the contrary, it is hot, dry weather, the pollen that has fallen on the pistil of the flower may not germinate due to dry air, even at temperatures below 25-30 degrees.
Therefore, after shaking the plants, you need to water the soil under them a little to increase the air humidity in the greenhouse - I usually do this procedure in the middle of the day. can be planted in the ground. In anticipation of a transplant, she will only have enough strength to feed her modest offspring.
Usually it is one or two small tomatoes. And until these one or two fruits ripen, the bush will not continue to grow and bloom.
Therefore, before planting the plant in the ground, these fruits must be removed. Often the flowers of modern hybrids are an inflorescence of several fused simple flowers. Some of them are especially large and complex. Usually this is the first flower in the brush.
Such flowers must be removed, because they either dry out, or they still do not form normal fruits.
eggplant
Not all gardeners grow eggplants in our region, because eggplant is a very demanding crop in terms of growing conditions. A little something is wrong, the plant sheds flowers, buds and ovaries. There are several reasons for this trouble.
One of them is the very high sensitivity of the plant to temperature fluctuations: lack of heat in spring or extreme heat in summer lead to such sad consequences. In cold summer, when the temperature drops to 15 ° C and below, growth stops, the flowers are not pollinated and simply fall off. This happened last summer.
Eggplant is the most light-loving crop, the slightest shading - and the plant will drop a bud or flower. Therefore, it is impossible for a shadow even from a neighboring plant to fall on it. Irregular watering leads to the same ending.
Eggplant - very moisture-loving plant(True, an excess of moisture in our climate is harmful to plants: they get sick). With a lack of soil moisture, plants stop growing and drop buds, flowers, young ovaries.
And already grown eggplants grow ugly. Insufficiently nutritious soil leads to the same consequences - this, unfortunately, is the most common cause failures of our gardeners. One thing is moisture in the soil, another is air humidity.
Here, the opposite is true: successful pollination requires dry weather, in wet weather the flowers do not pollinate and fall off, because eggplant pollen is heavy, and in wet weather it does not spill out of the anthers even when the plants are shaken. In such cases, I manually unravel the anthers and pollinate the pistils with pollen.
In this way, it is possible to pollinate the flowers. There is an opinion that the eggplant will tie the fruit only if they fall on the flower Sun rays. And, of course, eggplant sheds not only flowers, but even buds, if a spider mite has settled on the plant.
Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the plant. Traces of the work of this pest are clearly visible on the plant; it “decorates” the leaves with whitish dots. Fitoverm does a good job with it.
Peppers
The reasons why plants shed flowers, buds, ovaries are as follows. Lack of light. Plants, without further ado, drop flowers and ovaries. Because some of the flowers are not fertilized with a lack of light. An excess of light.
In the summer, in July, peppers suffer greatly from an excess of light. It is good when they are shaded at noon from the sun with a shadow, for example, from tomato bushes. You can throw dampened newspaper on top.
If this is not done, plants can drop buds. Pepper flowers are bisexual, they require air movement for pollination. Therefore, every morning you need to ventilate the greenhouse.
And this should be done as early as possible, do not wait for the greenhouse to warm up with the sun and it will get the atmosphere of a bath. If a stream of cold air bursts into such a bath, the plant will go into shock. The result is a suspension in growth, dropping ovaries. Soil moisture.
The bulk of the roots of peppers in our greenhouses is located in the upper soil layer - 10-20 cm. This layer must be well wetted. Plants do not tolerate fluctuations in soil moisture in the root zone.
With a lack of moisture, the bushes stop growing and shed their ovaries and fruits. Air humidity. In hot weather, it is useful to refresh the bushes with warm rain from a children's watering can, in the morning - over the leaves, and in the afternoon, in the heat, lightly irrigate the ground to moisten the air.
Peppers really like these procedures. It is not necessary to strongly humidify the air, because pollen loses its viability at high humidity. Air temperature over 35 degrees is unacceptable.
If the weather is very hot at the end of June-July, you can use this technique: cover the surface of the soil under the bushes with a layer of grass from the lawn. This layer protects the soil from drying out, from compaction, from overheating, besides, it provides additional nutrition to the bushes.
Before the end of June, it is not necessary to cover the soil with grass, you need to wait for the soil to warm up in the entire root habitat layer. In July, on warm nights, you can not close the greenhouse for the night. In general, my greenhouse is designed in such a way that the roof can be completely removed without difficulty, which I do in July. In hot weather, day and night, the greenhouse stands without a roof, so the temperature there does not rise above 30 degrees. “Garden Affairs” No. 6 (40), June 2010 Lyubov Bobrovskaya, amateur gardener
Why do peppers shed their ovaries
Everyone is well aware that peppers are extremely demanding on light - they need abundant sunlight from the moment they emerge until the end of the growing season. Insufficient lighting during the seedling period adversely affects not only the quality of the seedlings, but later on the growth and development of the vegetative and reproductive organs, and ultimately on the crop. Here is the first reason for the fall of the ovaries.
Water in the greatest quantity is necessary for pepper during the fruiting period. During the growing season, it is demanding on the presence of water and at the same time does not tolerate its excess. With a lack of moisture in the soil, some of the buds and ovaries fall off, the yield decreases. With excess moisture, the root system experiences a lack of air. As a result, the growth and development of the plant is suspended.
During the growing season, plants need to be fed twice a month, preferably alternating mineral and organic top dressing. The composition of the mineral top dressing includes ammonium nitrate or urea (15-20 g per 10 l of water), double superphosphate (40-50 g), potassium sulfate (20-30 g). All of these mineral fertilizers can be replaced with complex ones, for example, azofoska - 30-50 g per 10 liters of water. After two weeks, the plants can be fed with an organic solution (mullein 1:8, bird droppings 1:15).
Further, these top dressings (organic and mineral) alternate in a week. In August, during the period of mass ripening of pepper, top dressing can be carried out with superphosphate - 40 g per 10 liters of water (superphosphate is infused for at least a day).
If there is no calcium nitrate, you can shed the beds with a suspension of chalk - a glass per plant. Stir one - two tablespoons per 1 liter of water. Chalk that has not gone into the soil will go away with subsequent watering.
In the absence of calcium nitrate (unfortunately, it is rarely on sale), for foliar feeding, you can use a 0.3-0.4% solution of calcium chloride, which is sold in a pharmacy without a prescription.
Peppers have their own requirements for fruit setting conditions. These requirements are very high, up to whims. However, gardeners skillfully overcome them, as a result, almost all of us grow peppers.
The reasons why plants shed flowers, buds, ovaries are as follows.
Pepper flowers are bisexual and require air movement for pollination. Therefore, every morning you need to ventilate the greenhouse. And this should be done as early as possible, do not wait for the greenhouse to warm up with the sun and it will get the atmosphere of a bath. If a stream of cold air bursts into such a bath, the plant will go into shock. The result is a suspension in growth, dropping ovaries.
soil moisture. The bulk of the roots of peppers in our greenhouses is located in the upper soil layer - 10–20 cm. This layer must be well wetted. Plants do not tolerate fluctuations in soil moisture in the root zone. With a lack of moisture, the bushes stop growing, and shed ovaries and fruits.
Air humidity. In hot weather, it is useful to refresh the bushes with warm rain from a children's watering can, in the morning - over the leaves, and in the afternoon, in the heat, lightly irrigate the ground to moisten the air. Peppers really like these procedures. It is not necessary to strongly humidify the air, because at high humidity the pollen loses its viability.
Why do pepper flowers and ovaries fall and what to do
Pepper has a rather long growing season, and since this crop is also capricious of growing conditions, it happens that flowers and ovaries fall off even before planting in open ground or immediately after the first flowering. Why do pepper flowers and ovaries fall and what to do, let's figure it out.
Why do pepper flowers and ovaries fall and what to do.
The most common cause: peppers are overfed. If from the very beginning of planting pepper you did not follow the regimen, the rules for growing pepper and constantly fed the plant with various fertilizers, then there can be up to 40 buds on one branch, but this does not mean that everyone will “survive” to the fruit. Getting enough humus, chicken manure, alkaline-ash water and other fertilizers, the peppers no longer want to “work”, they are already well fed.) Therefore, they can shed a certain number of flowers.
What to do: stop feeding the peppers, especially with nitrogen fertilizers, arrange a hunger strike for them for 10-15 days.
If you did not pick off the first flowers of the pepper, then it is quite possible that this is also the reason why the flowers fall off the pepper. Cutting off the first flowers, we stimulate the growth of new roots and only then the pepper blooms. With good roots, the plant would not drop flowers - there would be enough food for everyone.
What to do: you need to pick off the first buds. If this has not been done, then you should not be upset, the plant will leave only the amount that it will be able to “feed” 🙂 You know how they say: “Better less, but more.” This is how it can work for you: from a smaller number of ovaries, larger fruits are formed.
Other possible reason, along which the pepper will part with the flowers: their pollination does not occur. Pepper flowers are bisexual and air movement is sufficient for pollination. When there is an ovary, and not a flower, it is possible that the pepper will not throw it off.
What to do: ventilate the room or try pollinating the pepper flowers yourself. It is necessary to transfer pollen from one flower to another. This can be done with cotton wool on a match, or with a small brush, or by cutting off a triangle of a leaf and pricking it with a toothpick.
The banal reasons why pepper flowers fall is a sharp jump in day and night temperatures. If you notice that the peppers not only began to fall off the flowers, but also the flowering generally slowed down (which means that the development of the fruits also slowed down), then lower the temperature. It turns out that the pepper does not like hot days, it is more pleasant for him to be cool!
What to do: maintain a balance of temperature and lighting conditions. In a greenhouse, this can be done by adjusting the opening and closing of the window using a covering material, such as light lutrasil.
If the flowers fall off at the pepper at home, even before planting in the ground, then it can be assumed that it lacks the capacity of the pot or the ground is too dry.
What to do: transfer the pepper to a larger pot and follow the rules of watering. The humidity of the earth can be checked with a wooden stick or a toothpick: if it is dry, then watering is necessary. It is better to water in the morning before 11 o'clock with water at room temperature.
Advice. If flowers and ovaries fall off the pepper, spray it in the evening with Uniflor-buton + HB-101 fertilizer - add one drop per 1.5 liters of water to the spray bottle. Uniflor-bud will help better formation of ovaries and fruits in peppers, and HB-101 will allow peppers to maximize their internal potential.
Article Author: Love
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The main problems in the cultivation of greenhouse pepper and how to solve them
Many gardeners face problems when growing pepper Everyone who is fond of growing vegetables on personal plot, it is known that hot and sweet peppers are very heat-loving crops, in the cultivation of which the observance of agricultural technology is of particular importance.
Most gardeners periodically encounter problems when growing this vegetable and try to understand why peppers do not bloom, do not grow well, or the formed fruits do not gain weight well and do not turn red. To understand the causes of the most frequent deviations in the process of growth and development of pepper grown in a greenhouse, as well as to correct the problem situation in the most short time, you should understand the basic technological methods of cultivating this plant.
Falling pepper buds
Among the most common problems that accompany the cultivation of pepper in a greenhouse, bud drop occupies a leading position. It should be noted that the flowers on peppers dry and fall off for several reasons, but the following circumstances most often influence this process.
- Temperature violation. For the appearance of the first shoots of pepper, it is enough to maintain the temperature regime at the level of twenty degrees. Further development of the plant requires a temperature of at least twenty-two degrees. A significant decrease or increase in this indicator has a bad effect on all stages of development and may cause the flowers to fall off.
Peduncles on pepper very often fall off with insufficient soil moisture in the greenhouse
- Violation of humidity indicators. Peduncles on pepper very often fall off when the soil in the greenhouse is not moist enough. Pepper has a root system that is not deep enough into the soil. This feature does not allow the plant to get enough water from deep soil layers. special attention require watering at the stages of flower formation and fruit formation.
Falling pepper leaves
This is perhaps the second most common problem faced by gardeners growing peppers in a greenhouse. Despite the seeming harmlessness, leaf fall is a rather serious violation, which can be caused by such shortcomings in care as insufficient watering or a decrease in temperature in the greenhouse.
With prolonged cooling and a decrease in temperature below twelve degrees, the leaves of plants fall off for biological reasons.
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With a prolonged cold snap and a decrease in temperature below twelve degrees, the leaves of plants fall off for biological reasons. A feature of the root system of most thermophilic plants is the termination of work under adverse external conditions, as a result of which the plant experiences hunger.
To maintain the growth point, the leaves of the vegetable crop give off nutrients, and they themselves first turn yellow and then fall off.
Fixing this problem is easy enough. It is necessary to feed the leaves with special preparations. For foliar feeding appropriate to use drugs "Uniflor-buton" And "Florist", which contain the whole spectrum essential trace elements. Sweet greenhouse pepper is very responsive to spraying with drugs "Aurum", "Novosil" or "Epin". with regular use of which the leaves cease to fall off. In addition, the leaves become an indicator of many plant diseases, which should be taken into account when examining a vegetable crop.
Pepper does not form buds with excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers to the soil
Peppers don't bloom
If greenhouse-grown peppers do not bloom or produce very few peduncles, the following factors must be taken into account:
It should be remembered that pepper does not form buds when nitrogen fertilizers are applied excessively to the soil, including weed infusion or manure, which is categorically not recommended for peppers. If a flowering pepper sheds flowers or ovaries, then the cause may be short-term frosts, as well as sudden temperature changes or watering with cold water.
Causes of falling buds in pepper (video)
Dry pepper bushes
Pepper is considered a fairly resistant vegetable crop and the complete drying of the bushes may indicate the critical state of this plant. If greenhouse pepper dries without apparent reason, you should pay close attention to the following parameters:
In addition, pepper often grows poorly and dries quickly when affected by many diseases and pests, including aphids and spider mites. as well as viruses and fungi such as late blight, rot, blackleg and fusarium wilt. The treatment regimen is selected depending on the type of pest and the stage of development of the disease.
Pepper bushes can dry out due to excess moisture in the soil.
Peppers do not set fruit
If a greenhouse pepper blooms profusely, but the ovary does not form, then this may be due to several factors, the most common of which is the so-called pollen sterility. This phenomenon is the result of the following main reasons:
The main ways to combat this phenomenon is the use of the Bud, Gibbersib and Zovya preparations, which should be sprayed on plants in the morning. When flowering, it is necessary to reduce the amount of irrigation of plants. To attract pollinating insects to the greenhouse, you should spray with syrup and plant honey plants. In addition, an effective measure is strict adherence to the ventilation regime.
If greenhouse pepper blooms profusely, but the ovary does not form, then this may be due to pollen sterility
We also invite you to learn about the features and options for using the Mittlider method for greenhouse structures.
Fruits do not turn red on pepper
There are several reasons explaining the slowdown or complete absence of the ripening process of already formed pepper fruits. However, it should be borne in mind that the degree of redness depends on the variety grown in greenhouse plants. For now wide use received varieties and hybrids of pepper, which have an exotic purple, white or orange color in the stage of maturity.
As a rule, peppers do not always turn red on the bush. A lot of gardeners pick fruits at the stage of incomplete ripeness, which allows the plant to form more ovaries. Thus, not only the fruiting period of the plant is extended, but also the yield is significantly increased.
How to grow a good crop of sweet pepper (video)
If it is necessary to obtain fully ripened fruits, it is necessary to carry out additional feeding of plants with complex fertilizers, as well as remove excess ovaries, which consume the energy and nutrition necessary for the ripening of already formed fruits.
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Pepper has a rather long growing season, and since this crop is also capricious of growing conditions, it happens that flowers and ovaries fall off even before planting in open ground or immediately after the first flowering. Why do pepper flowers and ovaries fall and what to do, let's figure it out.
chapter 1. Reasons for dropping the ovary
Peppers are extremely picky about light.- he needs abundant sunlight from the moment the shoots appear until the end of the growing season. Insufficient lighting during the seedling period adversely affects not only the quality of the seedlings, but later on the growth and development of the vegetative and reproductive organs, and ultimately on the crop. Here is the first reason for the fall of the ovaries.
Water in the greatest amount is necessary for pepper during the fruiting period.. During the growing season, it is demanding on the presence of water and at the same time does not tolerate its excess. With a lack of moisture in the soil, some of the buds and ovaries fall off, the yield decreases. With excess moisture, the root system experiences a lack of air. As a result, the growth and development of the plant is suspended.
Pepper is very picky about air humidity.. The optimum humidity for it is 60-70%. Higher or lower humidity, accompanied by increased temperature, causes the flowers and ovaries to fall off. It is necessary to monitor the level of humidity, not allowing it to rise above the optimum, for which greenhouses are ventilated. To increase the humidity of the air, you can spray water with a sprayer or spill the soil and adjacent paths from a watering can.
Pepper is especially demanding on the structure and fertility of the soil.. Grows well and bears fruit in light, humus-rich soils containing nutrients in an easily accessible form. Nitrogen plays an important role in nutrition, which improves the growth of vegetative organs - roots, stems, leaves. With its lack, growth slows down. An excess of nitrogen causes violent growth of stems and leaves to the detriment of the formation and ripening of fruits. Phosphorus has a beneficial effect on the growth of the root system, on accelerating the formation of ovaries and fruits. Potassium is necessary during the entire vegetation of the plant, it increases the resistance of the plant to cold, accelerates the ripening of fruits.
falling ovaries in pepper may occur due to insufficient activity of pollinating insects in adverse weather. To prevent this from happening, there is such a simple agricultural technique as forced pollination by shaking the plants in the morning.
chapter 2. What to do if pepper ovaries fall off
On poor, depleted soils, peppers often form defective ovaries that do not stay on the branches for a long time. This crop prefers a light, humus-rich soil that contains all the nutrients in a bioavailable form. Nitrogen is of particular importance in the nutrition of peppers: the normal development of all vegetative organs - leaves, stems and roots - depends on its presence and concentration in the soil.
With nitrogen starvation, the growth of peppers slows down, and with an excess of this element, violent growth of leaves and stems is observed to the detriment of the formation and ripening of fruits. A prerequisite for the formation of a powerful root system in pepper plants is the presence of a sufficient amount of phosphorus in the soil. In addition, this macronutrient accelerates the appearance of ovaries and fruits. Peppers also need a stable supply of potassium to the soil throughout the growing season, as it increases their resistance to cold and stimulates fruit ripening.
The whole season from the moment the seedlings are planted, it is recommended to feed the pepper once every two weeks, alternately using organic and mineral top dressings. To prepare mineral supplements, 15-20 grams of ammonium nitrate or urea, 40-50 grams of double superphosphate and 20-30 grams of potassium sulfate are dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water. All of the above types of mineral fertilizers can be replaced with a complete complex at the rate of 30-50 grams for the same volume of liquid. After a couple of weeks, the bed with this crop must be watered with a solution of organic matter (slurry (1:8), bird droppings (1:15), etc.).
In the future, the above top dressing is alternated at intervals of 1.5-2 weeks. During the mass fruiting of pepper, it is best to fertilize with an infused solution of superphosphate (40 grams per 10 liters of water).
A good preventive measure against falling ovaries in pepper is also foliar feeding of this crop with a 0.1-0.2% solution of calcium nitrate. They are carried out twice with a break in a week. With the same solution, you can fertilize plants under the root at the rate of 1-2 liters per pepper.
In the absence of calcium nitrate, a similar effect can be obtained if a glass of chalk suspension is added under each plant. For its preparation, one or two tablespoons of chalk are taken per liter of water. In addition, saltpeter can also be replaced with a 0.3-0.4% potassium chloride solution, which can be purchased at any pharmacy over the counter.
Chapter 3 Prevention
It is important to monitor the content of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers in the soil and, if necessary, carry out additional feeding when the plants bloom.
Chapter 4. Video
Sweet bell pepper, in addition to great taste, has a mass useful properties due to the content of a large number of vitamins and valuable trace elements. It is not surprising that it is cultivated not only on their plots, but also at home. However, the process of growing this vegetable is often complicated by the fact that the flowers fall off the pepper, and in some cases, the newly formed fruits. If the problem is not dealt with immediately, this can lead to crop loss.
Features of growing sweet pepper
Sweet peppers are native to Central America. This is a southern vegetable that prefers a warm climate, so in middle lane it is usually grown using seedling method in greenhouses.
This plant is quite capricious, it does not like excessive watering., and drying of the soil, so it is necessary to observe the golden mean, moistening the soil very carefully. Pepper is also demanding of light - in February (during the development of seedlings) and during further development it needs at least 12 hours of full lighting.
The onset of frost can also affect the growth process - if the temperature drops below one degree of frost, there is a risk of being left without a crop.
The crop is planted in the soil in May-June, and in the greenhouse a little earlier - in early April. To grow a quality crop, you need to choose the right soil. It is prepared in advance, about a year in advance, using organic matter, phosphorus and potash fertilizers, in the spring, ammonium nitrate is additionally added to the upper soil layer.
Since the culture is susceptible to disease, the soil is disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate. Experienced gardeners do not advise to plant a plant in open ground in cold and even warm climatic zones, as in such conditions the pepper grows slowly and bears fruit late.
Faced with such an unpleasant phenomenon as the fall of the ovary, the reasons must be sought in the improper preparation of seedlings, soil and illiterate care.
Underwatering and overwatering
The culture does not tolerate drought and reacts to such negative changes very quickly. That is why planting in hot, dry times is not recommended. It is because of this that pepper is pollinated poorly or pollination does not occur at all. As a result, the buds simply turn yellow, dry out, and then fall off. Of course, the fruits may set, but they will not be formed correctly, and as a result, the taste of pepper will also suffer.
Watering is essential for this plant and is required at the opening of each flower. On dry days, the culture is watered twice a day - in the morning and evening time. Do not do this during the day in direct sunlight.
After the appearance of the ovary and with the growth of the fetus, watering is required extremely careful. Due to the lack of moisture, the pepper can be small, lose the thickness of the pulp and juiciness. But its excess in the soil can attract slugs that can destroy part of the crop, as well as cause rotting of the plant's roots.
In addition, it should be remembered that the water for irrigation should be warm - at least +30 degrees. If you water the plants with cold water during their growth, then it can slow down, because of which the flowers will not appear, and therefore, do not wait for the fruits.
If pepper is grown in an apartment on the windowsill and the flowers fall off before planting in the soil, the reasons must be sought in the mismatch of the pot capacity (it is too tight for the root system) or overdrying of the earth.
In this case, you can advise:
- together with an earthy clod, carefully remove the plant and transplant into a larger pot;
- try to water the culture every day at the same time until 11.00 am, the water should be at room temperature.
To check the soil moisture, use a wooden stick - if it is dry, then the pepper needs watering.
Violation of the temperature regime and air humidity
Cold air can suppress the vital activity of a plant, and this must be taken into account. At the same time, stronger, mature plants are more resistant to low temperatures than tender seedlings.
Adult bushes can continue to bear fruit even at +15 degrees, but a further decrease leads to the fact that flowering stops, the flowers fall off, at +13 degrees and below, the pepper can get sick. Meanwhile, if the temperature rises to +35 degrees, the plant also sheds flowers and already formed fruits, the same effect can be expected with a long-lasting heat above 30 degrees.
Especially unfavorable are sharp temperature drops at night and during the day. In a greenhouse, it is easiest to control the balance. If it is necessary to reduce the temperature, this can be done by ventilation, opening and closing the windows. The same can be done in the apartment.
The reasons that buds and even young ovaries fall off sometimes lie in unsuitable air humidity, it is advisable to maintain it at the level of 60-70%. At high rates, ventilation will also help. In a residential area with too dry air, you can use special humidifiers or water fountains, and in the greenhouse, spray water with a sprayer.
Feeding rules
Improper feeding of plants can also lead to shedding of flowers, and much more often this is affected by an excessive amount of fertilizer. Pepper loves light soil with a high content of organic matter. One of important components nitrogen is considered for the growth of leaves, stems and roots - if it is deficient, growth stops, but if there is too much of it, it causes a violent development of green mass to the detriment of the formation of fruits.
It is imperative that potassium and phosphorus be contained in the soil, but when “overfeeding” there is too much load on the plant, and, despite the fact that a huge number of buds can form on some branches, others shed a certain number of flowers. What to do in this case? Just stop feeding for 10-15 days.
Other probable reasons for falling off
Other reasons can also lead to the dropping of buds and ovaries of pepper.
The most common of them:
- planting peppers too close leads to insufficient nutrition of individual plants, up to 25 cm of free space should remain between the bushes;
- shedding of buds occurs due to the fact that the first flowers were not removed, this is necessary for the full development of the ovaries;
- sometimes pests become the cause - greenhouse whitefly and spider mites, spraying with special means and infusion of yarrow and chamomile will solve the problem;
- in the conditions of an apartment or a greenhouse, the ovaries disappear due to the lack of pollination; ventilation of the room and artificial pollination using a small brush will help to eliminate the problem;
- if the seedlings from the moment of their emergence are not enough sunlight, in the future, pepper can shed flowers and ovaries, but this should be taken care of before planting.
By observing the rules of planting, care and watering, as well as by pollinating flowers in a timely manner and applying the required amount of fertilizer to the soil, you can avoid such trouble as shedding buds and pepper ovaries.
For more information on the challenges that can come with growing peppers, check out the video below.
Sweet pepper is one of the most common and most commonly planted vegetable crops. However, the process of its cultivation does not always go smoothly and without problems. Pepper is capricious and thermophilic. At the slightest change in growing conditions, it stops blooming or begins to shed flowers and ovaries. This situation leads to crop loss and therefore the question is, why do pepper flowers fall and what to do about it? – is always very relevant. First you need to find out the cause of this phenomenon, and there can be many of them.
Peppers are very demanding on temperature and humidity, especially if they grow in a greenhouse. In this case, the vegetable grower will have to try very hard to please the plants and not lose the crop. And it is not easy to please pepper with a temperature, since both an increase and a decrease in degrees are equally harmful to it.
While the pepper is in the seedling stage, the optimum temperature for it is considered to be 20-22 ° C. If this level is increased, the plants will stretch and become weak, and if the temperature drops, then young seedlings will stop developing. After transplanting to a garden bed or greenhouse, the ideal temperature for the active development of pepper is 25-26 ° C, and its fluctuations in any direction entail unpleasant consequences.
When the temperature drops, as well as when it rises by only 5 ° C, the flowers begin to fall off, and those that remain do not tie. Adult bushes are more resistant, and if the fruits have already set, then their ripening can occur at a temperature of 15-16 ° C, but when it drops to 13 ° C, the absorption of nutrients by the root system stops, and the plants begin to die for biological reasons.
Seedlings should be planted in open ground only at the end of June, when stable warm weather is established. But even this does not guarantee that the seedlings will take root, because at night the temperature still drops. The best option for peppers is growing in a greenhouse, but it can only be successful if the temperature and humidity conditions are maintained at an optimal level. 
Peppers are no less sensitive to changes in air humidity. Ideally, it should be at the level of 60-70%. In greenhouse conditions, regular ventilation and appropriate measurements will help maintain such humidity. If the humidity level is reduced (the room is very hot and dry), then it is necessary to install water containers or spray it on the floor and plants using a sprayer.
Video “Growing”
From the video you will learn how to grow peppers.
Influence of fertilizers
A lack or, conversely, an excess of fertilizers in the soil can also lead to the fact that the pepper does not bloom or discards the fruit that has set. The situation when the plants are overfed is much more common. Many gardeners regularly feed bushes with various fertilizers in the hope of a high yield. They partially achieve their goal - several dozen flowers can form on one branch, but it is clear that the bush will not withstand so many fruits. And the plant understands this, so it begins to drop extra flowers. What can be done in this case? Just do not fertilize for a while - 2-3 weeks. 
Another situation in which pepper flowers and leaves fall: you regularly fed the plants with humus (humus, compost) and nitrogen fertilizers at the initial stage of growth. At the very beginning of the growing season, these top dressings are really necessary, but since nitrogen mixtures have quite long period aftereffect, the plants continue to assimilate nitrogen even during flowering, when there is no such need. As a result, the bush is actively increasing its green mass, but is not going to set fruits.
Influence of harmful insects and diseases
The situation when the bush does not bloom or the ovary falls off due to insect damage happens quite rarely, but it still happens. 
As a rule, such changes begin to occur with peppers when the plants are very sick or damaged.
The pest feeds on the juice of the plant, which brings it to exhaustion. And a weak plant, of course, loses its ability to bear fruit, so it drops flowers.
Greenhouse peppers can be damaged by the greenhouse whitefly. This small insects moth-like, with thin white wings. For pepper, it is not so much they themselves that are harmful, but their secretions, which lead to the development of the fungus and damage to the leaves. In open ground, pepper can be damaged by a bear, ants, nematodes, and even Colorado potato beetle. Most of these pests, living in the soil, gnaw the roots of pepper, as a result of which the plants slowly die, and the first manifestation of their death is the dropping of flowers and ovaries. 
Of the diseases, any fungal disease can lead to the loss of flowers, especially late blight, rot, verticillium (plant wilt), as well as bacterial spotting. These diseases lead first to damage to the leaves, and then to the entire plant, but the first call of the disease is again the fall of ovaries and flowers. How to deal with diseases and insects? First of all, you need to clean the soil, since pest larvae and fungal spores live in it. During illness, you can use biological products (Fitosporin, Fitoverm).
Other reasons
If all of the above factors leading to the fall of flowers and ovaries are eliminated, but the problem is still not resolved, then the reason may be as follows:
Very often, pepper is grown at home as a pot culture. So, if he is provided with a comfortable microclimate and proper care, and the flowers still fall, try transplanting the bush into a larger pot. Sometimes a plant simply does not have enough space for full development.
Video “Diseases and pests”
From the video you will learn about diseases and pests of pepper.
