• Repair
• Repair
• Interior Design
• About everything
• About plumbing

How to properly cover roses for the winter. How to cover heat-loving plants for the winter

Majority garden plants(fruit, ornamental and berry) tolerates winter well and does not need any shelter. However, some of these plants, if certain conditions coincide, can be damaged. Eg, in early spring there was little snow and a lot of sun. At the same time, some coniferous plants may burn. Or frequent change of thaws and frosts. Or severe long frosts, withering plants.

It often happens that the same plants tolerate a harsh winter well, but die in a warm one. Apparently, the coincidence of a number of other conditions affects here. And in the fall you can’t guess what winter will be like and how it will affect different plants.

In addition, the microclimate in different zones garden plot also changes.

The photograph shows that in one winter the fir near garden house was open. And in another it was covered with snow.

Therefore, it is much easier to cover in the fall those plants that may suffer in winter. And sleep peacefully afterwards.

For example, in Siberia it is necessary to cover garden blueberries and rhododendrons, as well as fir, if it is located in a sunny place. It is advisable to cover thujas and rare conifers in the first few years after planting in the ground. It is desirable to cover roses for the winter, but in spring time- Necessarily.

There are many ways to cover plants, all have their advantages and disadvantages.

Of all the tested ones, we liked the shelter with the help of needle-punched geotextile brand “D” the most. He is synthetic fabric white color, strong and durable.

When do we cover plants? After the onset of constant negative temperatures -6-8 C day and night. It is better to cover the plants later than before. During autumn thaws, plants can prop up or grow under cover.

How do we hide? We lay the fabric on the plants so that an air cavity forms under it and so that it does not touch the plants. There should be a gap of at least five centimeters between the fabric and the plants.

To do this, we throw the fabric on the supports, which hold the weight of the snow and create an air cavity inside.

We used plastic arcs as supports. When sheltering roses, they were strongly bent under the weight of wet snow in the spring. Then, when the snow melted, they partially straightened out.

But when sheltering rhododendrons, the arcs withstood the weight of the snow, since the distance between the ends of the arcs was small and their degree of rigidity was higher.

We lay the geotextile on the supports so that there are holes for ventilation along the edges. The cracks should be 5-10 cm wide, in winter they will fill up with snow. But they are needed mainly in the spring, when the snow is actively melting and ventilation of excess moisture from under the shelter is needed.

The edges can be attached to the ground using bent electrodes. But it is better with the help of washers for fixing the insulation, without a dowel. Such washers are plastic and galvanized. It is better to use galvanized, as they are more durable. Press the geotextile to the ground, put a washer on top, insert a construction nail 200 mm long into the central hole and hammer it into the ground with a hammer.

Examples of plant cover.

Blueberry.

The shoots were tilted and attached to the ground with electrodes bent in the form of the letter "P".

Along the perimeter of the bush, logs were installed as racks.

Geotextiles were thrown on top and attached to the ground.

Rhododendrons.

Two plastic arcs were installed above the bush.

They put geotextiles on them and attached it to the ground.

Roses.

We cut off the unripened shoots and remove the leaves.

Long shoots were tilted and attached to the ground with electrodes.

Plastic arcs were installed on top.

Geotextiles were placed on the arcs and attached to the ground.

In the spring, the shelter was removed only after new shoots grew by 4-5 cm. We remove geotextiles in the evening or cloudy weather.

For the experiment, part of the geofabric was removed and replaced with a black “T” brand geotextile. After the geofabric was removed, it was noticed that rose shoots began to grow faster under the black geotextile than under the white one. Apparently this is due to the fact that the black fabric was heated in the sun and it was warmer under it than under the white fabric.

Therefore, in winter, roses can be covered with white geotextile of brand "D", and in spring, replace it with brand "T".

Tui.

Above the plant, a frame was made of slats.

The frame was wrapped with two layers of geotextile and tied with a cord.

A ventilation hole was left at the top, and the geofabric was additionally tied with wire for strength.

Sheltering plants for the winter should be carried out on time and in moderation: too much zeal in such a matter can bring disastrous results. A slight frost is not so terrible for wintering plants, even very thermophilic ones, overheating is much more dangerous.

After all, plants often die not from cold, but from dampness caused by temperature fluctuations during a thaw. The moisture accumulated during a warm day from melting snow freezes at night and cannot evaporate from under a thick covering coat, which carries a real threat of decay of the root collar, and subsequently even the death of young plantings.

When to cover overwintering plants?

The threat of overheating and decay is exposed not only to plants covered for the winter with an excessively thick fur coat, but also to plants covered too early, when the weather is still warm from above zero for a long time. It is necessary to cover wintering plantings when the thermometer is steadily below 5-7 degrees below zero. and the ground will freeze by 4-5cm.

How to cover plants for the winter?

Of course, the best shelter is spruce branches. The material itself is warm and holds snow well. But if three thousand summer residents getting off the train at my stop go to the forest for spruce paws, then the forest will not live even two or three years. Therefore, we are looking for other equally wonderful covering materials, both natural and adapted for this purpose, which can replace spruce branches. For example, we rake fallen leaves (it must be dry), peat, humus.

Each type of plant has its own preferences in the choice of covering material. For example, mulching with pure peat, moist soil or sawdust is in no way suitable for roses, since these materials quickly absorb moisture and, with a sharp drop in temperature, form an ice crust dangerous for plants in the near-stem circle. The roots stop breathing, and the moisture accumulated under the crust causes the root neck to rot.

Roses cut to the woody part of the stem: all the same, the unripe shoots will die, they will only spread the infection. Spud, and then sprinkle the bushes with clean, dry sand to a height of 20-25cm. Cut off the remaining leaves on the branches with scissors.

climbing roses must be removed from the support and laid on a spruce branch or on wooden shields. It is important for them that rain and sleet do not fall on the stems during wintering.

Clematis if necessary, it can be cut off, or it can be laid in rings around the trunk. They winter well, if after water-charging irrigation(it is carried out before the soil freezes!) Sprinkle them with dry earth or sawdust.

hyacinths, irises, primrose, violam a blanket made of sawdust or dry leaves 10-15 cm thick is suitable.

Not only clematis sissies and capricious roses need the pre-winter care of an amateur gardener. Attention is also required by other heat-loving ornamental plants:, hydrangeas, heathers, and conifers, as well as young, more winter-hardy plants that have not yet entered into force.

trunk circle and root collar rhododendrons, especially young ones, you need to cover well with a 15-centimeter layer of fallen leaves.

Buddley requires winter pruning. Cut branches can be buried in soddy soil in the basement, and planted in the ground in the spring - you will have a lot of buddles.

Mulching trunk circles help you get through the winter hydrangeas and young coniferous.

A blanket of 10 cm layer of dry leaves or sawdust will be to your liking hyacinths, lilies, irises and other primroses. With this in mind, do not forget to remove the shelter in time in the spring.

Decorative creepers, which for some reason you cannot remove from the support for the winter, can be insulated directly on it: pull the branches with a soft cord closer to each other and to the support, then wrap the plants well with several layers of spunbond, lutrasil or other breathable covering material, from above wrap in foil. The insulation should be well secured with a cord.

Such sheltering can also be used to insulate young seedlings of heat-loving plants for the winter. fruit trees - apricot, peach, almond and other southerners whom you decided to accustom to our difficult climate of a more harmful strip. This will also save them from the February sunburn- for evergreens, it is not so much the winter cold that poses a danger, but the winter sun.

Do not forget about such reliable insulation as snow. The task of the gardener and gardener is to accept effective measures to snow retention: the more snow lingers around the plant, the better.

Great for holding snow strawberry patch branches left from pruning the garden, cut stems of raspberries and berry bushes.

Stems of corn, Jerusalem artichoke and sunflower, coarsened stems of flowers, dried dill will also be appropriate for garden, berry and flower plantings.

Sheltering plants for the winter, carried out correctly, is warming with a moderate layer of material suitable for a given plant, made on time and contributing to snow retention. Good dreams to your plants during hibernation!

Incorrectly chosen protective "cocoon" for plants, and most importantly - its incorrect use leads to freezing of the root system, death of plantings and lack of yield. Unfortunately, not everyone thinks about how to properly cover plants for the winter.

Climate in last years becomes more and more unpredictable. Some suburban cultures middle lane need reliable shelter and can not always winter safely. However, often in an effort to unnecessarily protect plants, gardeners make mistakes and actively support the myths associated with the warming of garden and garden plants. Today we will talk about the most common myths and try to debunk them.

Myth 1. Absolutely all plants on the site need shelter.

Any plant has the ability to adapt to conditions. environment and climate. If you don't grow at all exotic plants, "guests from the southern countries", then in most cases you don't have to worry - other perennials will endure winter frosts and lower temperatures. most plants zoned, i.e. "hardened" and prepared to grow in the area in which you grow them. Mostly the tender ones need shelter. perennials which primarily include:

• roses (almost all types, except for park ones);
• clematis;
• chrysanthemums;
• lilies;
• garden peonies;
• rhododendrons;
• lavender;
• grape;
• young thuja up to 5 years old.

Choose for landing late and winter-hardy varieties- so the plants are more likely to freeze out

Myth 2. Plant shelter is a guarantee of its successful wintering.

One of the most dramatic pictures that meets summer residents who came to the site in the spring are plants that have not survived the winter. Moreover, to the surprise of many site owners, it turns out that both sheltered and unprotected plants suffered. The fact is that the main enemy of country crops is not extreme cold, A temperature changes. Especially often such changes are observed in the autumn-spring period, when frosts are followed by thaws. At this time, there is an accumulation of moisture in the soil and its freezing. Consequently, root system it rots, rots, freezes, cracks and opens the way for pathogenic microbes. Therefore, all measures to prepare plants for winter are not limited to creating shelter; it is necessary to prepare plantings for winter in a comprehensive manner. Start with a choice right place for landing, taking into account the level of occurrence ground water, lighting and wind roses. You should also properly water, regularly feed and trim the plants.

The lower the shelter is located, the warmer it is, since only the earth warms the plants in winter.

Myth 3. Low-growing plants enough to sprinkle with earth

Low-growing crops or shoots remaining after pruning need only a small earthen mound. Most summer residents think so, but this is only half the truth about sheltering low crops for the winter. From hard frost"earth mound" practically does not protect, but actively removes moisture during spring floods, preventing the root system from getting wet. To create a thermal cushion, instead of land from the site, use humus. It is looser, does not cake, and its thermal insulation is higher than that of ordinary earth. And yet, even such a shelter should be considered only as an additional one, without neglecting the installation of a protective hut over rose bushes and other plants.

The layer of humus or peat above the plant should be 15-20 cm

Myth 4. Spruce branches and fallen leaves are the best shelter for plants.

Spruce spruce branches and leaf litter are often cited as the best covering material for plants. And there is a lot of truth in this - they do a really good job not only in protecting plants from the cold, but also in other functions. In particular, pine or spruce branches:

• protects plants from wet snow, rain and cold wind;
• a warm air ventilated layer is formed above the plants;
• shelter with spruce branches protects crops from sunburn and sudden changes in temperature;
• protects plants from rodents.

But at the same time, do not forget about shortcomings spruce branches:

• it is problematic to prepare a sufficient amount of spruce branches;
• in the process of harvesting, it is possible to violate the legislation on the protection of forest plantations;
• together with spruce branches, pests and diseases can be brought to the site.

Before collecting spruce branches, you need to make sure that there are no yellow and dry needles on the plant - this is often a sign of a serious illness.

When sheltered with spruce branches, the temperature under it does not fall below -5 ° C even in thirty-degree frost

Application as a covering material fallen leaves also quite popular. But summer residents usually do not remove the leaves that have fallen from fruit trees and shrubs. It quickly decomposes and protects plants from the first frosts. However, is autumn foliage really that effective in the long run? The fact is that only the leaves of oak, chestnut, maple and birch do not rot for a long time. Mice and other rodents like to settle in them for the winter. Therefore, only dry foliage can be used, and at the same time it is desirable that it is aged for several months, or even a whole year. Foliage is usually harvested in advance, placed in bags and stored in this way for some period of time.

Myth 5: Over-reliance on nonwovens

Covering synthetic materials quickly won the love of summer residents, and they began to be actively used to protect various crops not only from the cold, but also from weeds and to preserve moisture. Unfortunately, dense materials sometimes play a cruel joke with summer residents. Initially, they were developed for countries with warm and little snowy winters. But when they began to be used in conditions of temperature fluctuations, it turned out that with the advent of spring, the plants began to die. Coniferous plants and decorative thuja. Due to temperature fluctuations, they were trapped in the ice shell that their shelter turned into. As a result, gardeners became disillusioned with the new material and stopped buying it.

It is not worth covering the plant early, in any case it should harden a little at temperatures down to -5 ° C

This was due to the fact that conifers were carefully wrapped in impenetrable material completely. Throw a film over the top of the tree, covering about 1/3 of the trunk with it. But even in this case, do not fix it rigidly, but organize something like a "wigwam". The needles will not come into contact with the frozen film and will be able to breathe. Also, the shelter will protect the tree from sun rays, especially insidious during thaws.

In this case, cover the lower part of the tree with snow and lay spruce branches on top. You can completely cover the plant with non-woven material closer to the beginning or middle of March, when all the snow has melted.

And what techniques do you use to cover plants in the garden? Share your ideas and observations, both positive and negative. In the first case, the readers and I will be able to be happy for you, and in the second, together we will try to find ways to solve problems with winter shelter.

Hello reader!

Today I want to talk about sheltering flowers for the winter. What a garden - a vegetable garden can do without perennials! There simply aren't any. And they cover them so that in winter the greenery does not rot under the snow, especially in early spring. When warm and high humidity. To do this, many perennial flowers are covered for the winter. Shelter also saves the roots from freezing in frosty winters with little snow. Before October, it is not necessary to start sheltering, let the first small frosts harden the plants and prepare them for winter.

How to cover flowers for the winter

1. Perennial flowers

Many perennial flowers ( daisies, cloves,, daisies, arabis) go under the snow with green, juicy leaves and stems. From temperature fluctuations and high humidity under the snow, the greenery begins to rot, and the flowers die. Protects from this misfortune shelter.

We usually cover with a thin layer of fallen leaves - usually 5-7 cm. Of course, it is better to first cover all plantings of these flowers with spruce branches or brushwood (hardwood branches), this will provide ventilation and protect the plants from decay.

Primrose

In autumn, gardeners have enough to do, you say, and then cover the flowers. But we will not be lazy, and we will protect our unpretentious perennials. May they continue to delight us with lush flowering.

For primrose (primrose) the thickness of the coating of fallen leaves will be enough 5 cm.

In winter, try to add snow to these places. Most The best way keep warm - this is a large snowdrift over the flower garden.

2. Shelter bulb flowers

Lilies with white flowers! we cover with a layer of fallen leaves of 10-15 cm. Since their bulbs grow at the very surface of the soil and can freeze. In all other varieties, the bulbs are buried in the ground and do not need to be covered.

3. Rudbeckia, delphinium

In early October (after flowering) on ​​old plantings roses (except climbing ones), about roses below in more detail, rudbeckia, delphinium, burning clematis we cut the leaves and stems at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil surface. And before frosts (without waiting for them), we mulch with peat or earth (a layer of at least 3-5 cm) to protect plants from freezing. From above, you can cover with foliage or spruce branches.

Cover material video

4. Shelter of roses

Naturally, you can make a flower shelter in your own way from improvised materials. But don't forget - main principle shelters - so that air space remains under it. Before the temperature drops to -10 ° C, we leave gaps for ventilation. You can also read about other ways

Under a layer of leaves that become wet and heavy in winter, the lawn can literally suffocate. It is better to rake the foliage under the trees and shrubs. autumn foliage protects soil and roots from freezing decorative perennials, as well as reliably protect young plantings of edelweiss.

Majority ornamental trees and shrubs normally tolerates the cold season. But evergreen deciduous, such as rhododendron, mahonia, as well as roses, hydrangeas, especially if they are planted in a hedge, protection is simply necessary.

Certainly, best defense plants in winter - a thick layer of snow. Camellia can be insulated by putting on a “coat” of burlap or agrospan, and ornamental shrubs, sensitive to cold, will successfully overwinter if wrapped with agrospan. Several pegs from the inside will support the structure so that it does not fall.

Negative temperatures are not the only source of danger for plants in winter. On clear frosty days, leaves and branches evaporate a lot of moisture. Icy northern and eastern winds dry up the soil, especially in the absence of snow cover. Frozen ground cannot give water to plants, and they dry up. Therefore, the roots need to be covered so that they are warm, and the branches should be protected from the sun.

Some of the ornamental grasses can tolerate cold and dryness, but in wet weather their roots rot. It is best to tie such plants in bunches so that rain or melt water can drain freely from them.

Lamascus grass, tied into bunches to protect the roots from dampness, resembles some mysterious creatures from a fairy tale.

Cold resistant woody plants in pots and tubs can spend on the balcony or terrace all winter. Boxwood, yew, cherry laurel, euonymus (in warm regions), dwarf pine or spruce, juniper, cotoneaster (in more severe ones) will bloom with bright greens in this season that is poor in colors. Those plants that do not withstand the cold can be beautifully draped with reeds, spruce branches, hay or straw and additionally decorated with ribbons.

Remember that the containers in which the plants are located must be frost-resistant. And make sure that the earthy clod of the evergreens never dried up.

The reason for the death of conifers, including juniper, spruce, arborvitae, cypress, hemlock, and evergreen deciduous plants in winter, is most often not frost, as many people think, but drought. All plants evaporate moisture through their leaves, and evergreens evaporate it in winter, especially on sunny days. If the moisture reserves from the soil are not replenished, the plant gradually dries out. Therefore, in autumn, especially dry, it is very important to water evergreen trees and shrubs more often not too much cold water. At the same time, water should seep into the ground gradually so that the plant does not drag into the soil.

The larger the autumn water reserves, the longer conifers and deciduous plants that do not drop foliage for the winter. Watering should be continued and winter period, if the ground is not covered with snow and is very dry, but only at positive air temperature. On open areas plants must be protected from the wind.

Among the large ornamental perennials that need protection in winter is gunnera dyer. The imposing gunnera dye grows on moist soils in shade or partial shade. In autumn, cut off the leaves and flower stalks, cover the plant with a thick layer of foliage and brushwood. It is also recommended to make a hut from slats or poles.

But Coulter's omnea, or California tree poppy, prefers dry and moisture-permeable soil, warmth and sun, therefore, in conditions cold winter the plant is dug up in autumn and transferred to a bright, dry and cool place where the temperature does not fall below 0 0 C.

The giant fennel, which grows up to three meters in height, also likes a warm and sunny place, so in winter it should also be covered with a thick layer of leaves.