The unpretentious perennial astilba grows well in open ground. How to plant astilba in spring
The luxurious astilba perennial, common in North America and in the east of the Asian continent, today has already perfectly adapted to Russian gardens. This spectacular decorative culture is unpretentious, cold-resistant, blooms long time. Moreover, unlike many garden plants, it does not pretend to sunny areas and, perfectly taking root in wet shady places, gives a truly aesthetic pleasure from contemplating magnificent greenery and excellent bright large panicle flowers.
Culture Features
A native of America, astilbe settles well in Russian open spaces. Out of 30 known species at least a third of the plants are cultivated, and the number of new varieties appearing on the market is constantly growing thanks to breeding research. Growing astilba in the garden does not cause much trouble for flower growers. In addition, the responsive culture in different varieties has a different height, and this diversity is successfully used by landscape designers.
There are such varieties of astilba: dwarf up to 30 cm high, undersized - 30-60 cm, medium-sized - 60-90 cm, and tall, reaching 90-150 cm. in August. Among domestic flower growers, medium-sized hybrids are most common, pleasing with the splendor of amazing flowers from July to September.
This culture has decorative not only flowers, but also spectacular dark green dissected leaves on strong reddish cuttings. The green mass of the flower forms a sprawling bush, the richness of color and shape of which does not change throughout summer season. Even in September, astilba bushes are as fresh as in June. Very small fluffy flowers of all shades of white, pink and red tones are collected in original panicles-inflorescences on thin, tall and very strong peduncles.
Astilba: growing conditions
An unpretentious culture that readily grows in the shade is not afraid of areas with a close approach to groundwater, although in this case there will be much fewer flowers.
Wild astilbe likes to settle along the banks of lakes and rivers, where humidity reaches its maximum values. The culture has a powerful root system: a branched rhizome with numerous strong roots extending from it. Undemanding to care, astilba responds to care and loves the fertile soil of semi-shaded areas. The ideal option is to plant bushes under the old overgrown fruit trees. In their sliding shadow, where no, no, yes, they look Sun rays, astilba takes root and feels great, the cultivation and care of which consists in regular watering and mulching of the soil layer to avoid overheating of the roots.
The advantages of planting under the arch of trees also lie in the fact that the roots of the crop that grow over time drown out the weeds, and there is no need for weeding. Nevertheless, it is necessary to keep an eye on the development of culture, because the most important thing for such an ornamental bush as astilba is planting and care.
Reproduction by seeds
Propagation of astilba by seeds is a laborious process, but if it is impossible to purchase a seedling or if you liked a new variety of crop and wanted to grow it in your own garden, you should be patient and plant seeds of such a crop as astilba in February or March. Growing and caring for it begins with the selection of soil for seedlings. The soil for it should consist of garden soil and humus in equal proportions or can be purchased in specialized outlets. The seeds are very small, and they are planted by carefully scattering them over the surface. wet soil. The seedling box can be covered with glass or plastic wrap.
With good seed germination, the first shoots appear in 15-20 days. Astilba seedlings are extremely tender and small. You have to be very careful with them, keep them moist. warm water through a sprayer, not allowing the earth to dry out. If it is impossible to maintain regular watering for various reasons, then moisture can be provided by introducing a hydrogel into the soil that retains moisture at the roots. Growing astilba from seeds is a rather lengthy process; the first flowers should be expected in the second or third year.
Seedling picking
The grown seedlings, which have released 3-5 true leaves, dive, selecting the strongest seedlings and planting them in separate containers. This procedure is necessary so that the sprouts have the opportunity to develop a strong root system and a green aerial part. The transplant technology is as follows: the seedlings are carefully removed from the ground, the roots are cut a little for subsequent branching and transplanted into a separate bowl. It is important, when diving a seedling, to place it, significantly deepening, sometimes to the first leaves. The soil in the container is carefully compacted by pressing the roots of a seedling of a plant such as astilba. Planting and caring for seedlings does not cause much trouble.
Feed for seedlings
Most convenient option top dressing of transplanted seedlings is the mixing of fertilizer with the soil used at the time of picking. Various mineral mixtures with a complete set essential trace elements a great many today. For example, the complex fertilizer "Agricola for seedlings" is great for such dressings. It should be noted that it is impossible to overfeed seedlings - this will immediately affect the quality of seedlings and further development plants called astilba. Growing and caring for it at the seedling stage consists in maintaining normal humidity.
Strengthened shoots are planted in a permanent place at the end of May. The rooting period will require special attention: it is important to keep the soil layer constantly moist, mulch or remove weeds in a timely manner.
Vegetative propagation
Astilba should not be grown in one place for more than 5 years. It thickens, the flowers become noticeably smaller, therefore, it requires a radical solution. ornamental bush astilba. Planting and care (propagation by dividing the rhizome is the least expensive event than planting seeds) in this case a little easier. Given the undoubted superiority of reproduction by dividing the rhizome, many flower growers have long adopted this method. The bush is planted in this way in early spring or autumn after flowering.
astilba rhizome sharp knife carefully cut into pieces, making sure that the existing lobes have a dry peduncle with replacement buds. If one of the parts did not have one, one can hope for the presence of dormant buds on the rhizome, which will start to grow, but the young bush will be able to bloom only in the second year. It is necessary to carry out the division procedure quickly, although astilba tolerates it well, the roots should not be allowed to dry out. If the division is carried out correctly and quickly, the culture will certainly bloom next spring.
Transplant technology
When transplanting parts of astilba, it is necessary to prepare sites for planting in advance. Ideal is planting a crop near a pond, in shady places in the garden with fertile soil. In addition, the bush also needs preparation: in August, astilba, after flowering, is most located for transplantation. It is more expedient to cut the leaves, leaving only the petioles. Separated parts - delenki - should have 5-6 buds in order to more easily survive the winter.
The procedure algorithm is as follows:
- Rhizome enough young plant easily separated by hand, the lignified roots of old bushes can be cut with a shovel. Sometimes it’s easier not to even dig up a bush, but to chop off part of the rhizome.
- Humus mixed with complex mineral fertilizer should be introduced into the planting pit.
- The recess is abundantly spilled with water.
- The part of the plant intended for transplantation is cleaned of excess earth and carefully placed in the hole.
- Compact the soil around the plant so that unnecessary voids do not form around the roots.
- Once again, it is good to shed a seedling of such an ornamental shrub as astilba.
Planting and care, propagation of culture and all the troubles associated with it at this stage are fully implemented.
Fertilizers and top dressings
For the normal development of astilba, it is necessary to provide it with sufficient nitrogen fertilizers in spring period, as well as phosphorus and potassium closer to the dormant period. The usual rate of top dressing per bush is 20-25 g. They are applied both in liquid form and in granules, mixing with the soil around
plants when loosening, after which it is recommended to mulch. Young bushes planted in autumn are best covered for the winter with any coniferous spruce branches. For all its high resistance to cold, astilba can freeze slightly, since the rhizome, when developing, tends to protrude somewhat above ground level, so good mulching or wintering shelter will not be superfluous.
The role of culture in the garden interior
Astilbe, the cultivation and care of which is not a hassle, serves as a magnificent decoration for park areas, summer cottages and gardens. It is placed in single bushes or in separate groups, brings variety to the landscape of lawns and provides multi-tiered in discounts and mixborders. In addition, recently florists are increasingly including cut flowers in exclusive bouquets. Astilba, the cultivation of which allows you to get a large number of flowers from each bush without burdensome hassle, is usually not affected by pests and diseases.
Even in small summer cottages, luxurious astilbe bushes are successfully used to decorate the landscape. Group compositions on rocky hills or rock gardens, decor of a line of reservoirs and lawns - the use of culture in decorating a garden is limitless. Astilba, planting and caring for which is disproportionate to the pleasure delivered, conquers all large quantity Russian florists.
Flower growers are especially appreciated unpretentious perennials, which year after year decorate the site with bright quivering inflorescences. These crops include astilba, planting and care in open field for which it will not be difficult even for a beginner.
One has only to see the openwork foliage and the lush inflorescences rising above it, like airy foam, it is already impossible to forget the appearance of a perennial ornamental plant! Even outside the flowering season, astilbes are graceful and attractive. It is not surprising that the plant is becoming increasingly popular with gardeners in various regions of the country. There are flower enthusiasts, for example, in Siberia, where, it would seem, one can only dream of planting and caring for astilba.
In order for the beauties that appeared on the site to feel comfortable, grow and bloom to the delight of the owners, you need to know something about the culture itself and the conditions acceptable to it.
Garden beauty astilba
Astilba is a herbaceous ornamental perennial, different kinds which came from Asia and North America. Depending on the variety grown, the height of the plant can vary from 20 cm to 2 meters, and the shades of tiny flowers collected in paniculate inflorescences are incredibly diverse. Well-chosen plants will cover the garden with a cloud of milestone shades of white, pink, red, purple and lilac. Leaves, like inflorescences, are decorative. Not only do they have an exquisite falsely dissected shape, the color of the leaf plates varies from the usual green to burgundy or purple-gray.
If you make a little effort in growing and caring, from June to August it will surprise you with friendly and long flowering.
In the open ground - a very grateful plant, perfectly responsive to attention, correct selection places to land and tireless care. This is one of the few cultures that not only tolerate, but also prefer partial shade. Astilba has very few enemies in the garden, and the flower is rarely affected by diseases.
When to plant astilba in open ground: in spring or autumn
After hibernation, the plant wakes up a little later than the rest of the perennials. In order for astilbe to start a stable vegetation, average daily temperature air must not fall below +10 °C. In warm areas, young astilba leaves appear at the end of April or in early May when planting and leaving in the open field.
In the north, where spring drags on, the development of the plant is delayed until the end of May or the beginning of June.
If the grower wants to replenish his collection of luxurious plants, it is important not to rush so that the flower culture does not freeze after transplantation, and not to hesitate. Otherwise, in hot weather, it will be more difficult for astilba to acclimatize.
The beginning of the growing season is the time when better in spring plant astilba in open ground.
Some summer residents practice autumn flower planting, but in this case, the plant needs to be given time to take root and adapt to a new place.
Place for planting astilba in open ground
When choosing a place for astilba, you need to remember that the plant:
- prefers diffused light;
- can grow and bloom in the shade of trees and buildings;
- unpretentious when choosing a soil that should retain moisture well and not be excessively heavy;
- however, it does not tolerate stagnant moisture, which threatens to rot the roots, and in spring time increases the risk of preli.
To flowering perennial did not suffer from too dry air, for planting astilba in open ground and facilitating care, it is useful to choose areas near water bodies where the humidity is slightly higher.
Features of planting an astilba flower in the ground in spring
In the flowerbed, the place for astilba is calculated so that about 30–40 cm remains between the bushes. Add to the prepared planting pits up to 30 cm deep and wide:
- 30 grams of complex fertilizers for ornamental crops;
- about a glass of bone meal;
- humus.
Planting is carried out in moist soil to a depth of about 20 cm, while the soil layer above the points of future growth should not be more than 3–5 cm.
Planted adult plants and cuttings at vegetative propagation astilbes are densely mulched at the top so that the soil retains moisture better, and the plants are protected from the germination of weeds.
Most suitable as mulch different materials, which include:
- chopped straw;
- large chips or pieces of bark;
- pebbles or expanded clay;
- lowland.
As necessary, the mulch layer is updated in the summer, and when planting astilbe in open ground in the fall, it helps the perennial crop to winter quietly.
When is it useful to plant astilba in open ground in the fall?
A feature of astilba is the upper growth of the root system, which in a few years leads to the appearance of a dense island under the bush, towering above general level soil. Without a regular, every 4-5 years transplant:
- astilbe roots weaken;
- the number of annually formed renewal buds decreases;
- the flowering of such a plant is shorter and poorer, the leaves are smaller.
After the flowering of an adult astilbe, it is useful to take its autumn transplant, combining the procedure with dividing the bush into several young ones.
If you have to plant and care for astilba in the Urals, in Siberia, the Non-Black Earth Region, you need to calculate the transplant time so that the plant has time to acclimatize. Autumn mulching will be a good help, which will partially replace or enhance the effect of sheltering a flower for the winter.
Vegetative propagation and planting of astilba seeds
In the conditions of an amateur garden or suburban area astilbes reproduce vegetatively, that is, by dividing an adult bush or with the help of individual renewal buds. Planting astilbe with seeds is a rarity used to obtain new varieties or hybrids, as well as in the presence of varietal seed.
The easiest way is to divide an adult bush. This is done in spring or autumn so that each part has several promising growth points and enough roots for nutrition.
Places of cuts on the root system should be treated with crushed charcoal. Planting in open ground and caring for astilba in this case do not have any features, except that young specimens are watered every day. If you do not be late with a transplant, already in the second half of summer, astilba will delight with the first flowers.
The branch of promising buds, which will become an independent shoot next year, will also help to get young astilba. And here it is worth taking care that the renewal kidney has a healthy root.
The future bush is planted on a separate seedling bed in a loose moisture-intensive substrate. Film covers are often used. They will help support comfortable temperature, increased humidity and will help the plant take root faster. In autumn or the next vein, such seedlings are ready for planting in a permanent place.
Astilba care after planting in open ground
Caring for a beautiful astilba will not make it difficult for the busiest summer resident. If the place for planting is chosen correctly, during spring, summer and autumn, while the growing season is in progress, the flower needs:
- watering, providing the plant with its favorite water;
- top dressing with a predominance of potassium and;
- measures to keep the soil clean and loose, such as maintaining a layer of mulch.
The soil under the astilba must not be allowed to be covered with a dry crust. The plant immediately reacts to this with lethargic leaves, shedding of flowers and “holes” in lush inflorescences.
Astilba is not afraid of the cold, so in most regions it is not specially covered, but it is worth checking the mulch layer in the fall. When spring comes, mulching is done again. It will protect the sprouts from frost and simplify the care of astilba after planting the flower in the ground.
Experienced flower growers who have been growing a crop for a long time recommend removing fading inflorescences along with flower stalks. This measure will keep the astilbe strong and improve appearance the entire flower bed. Before the onset of cold weather, the aerial part of the plants is carefully cut off, leaving petioles 5–10 cm above the ground level.
Interesting about charming astilba - video
Reproduction of astilba is a topic that is relevant for many gardeners. Having planted one variety of herbaceous perennial on the site, you will definitely want to get a few more different bushes.
There are few options to achieve the goal:
- buy a root in the store;
- ask a neighbor for a delenka;
- experiment with perennial seeds.
This is an exhaustive list of astilba propagation methods. Let's dwell on them in more detail.
Reproduction by seeds
This option is the most controversial and problematic. Firstly, not all hereditary hybrids adopt the maternal characteristics of the plant. Secondly, the germination of the seeds of the plant is incredibly low (± 70%), as manufacturers directly indicate on the packages.
Nevertheless, possible difficulties not only do not stop individual gardeners, but also provoke them: will it be possible to get seedlings? How to increase the percentage of germination of culture?
Self-sowing
Astilbe - herbaceous plant, the ground part of which dies off for the winter in order to build up a new vegetative mass in the spring. Some gardeners do not cut faded panicles, creating a natural shelter for the rhizome to avoid freezing.
The best self-seeding results are seen where there is no demand garden tools
In early varieties of astilba, numerous seeds manage to start, ripen and sift into the ground. During the winter, they undergo stratification and in late spring (or even early summer) they give miniature, one might say stunted, seedlings. Germination statistics are modest. Considering that up to 20 thousand seeds can be in 1 g of dry inflorescence, no more than 3-7 are viable. Why is that?
Practice shows that often the reason for the lack of seedlings is not a plant, but gardeners. Reasons for failure:
- Millimetric sprouts hatched in spring (early summer) are in complete darkness due to the abundant foliage of the perennial parent. Weak astilbes die without having time to develop a vegetative mass.
The way out is that the seedlings found under the bushes dive into a pot or free up part of the space, thinning out the parent “under the crown”. - Miniature young shoots are destroyed along with weeds during the spring weeding.
Everyone remembers that astilbes develop incredibly slowly, but no one attaches importance to this fact. And in vain. Seedlings will form a small (visible to the naked eye) bush no earlier than mid-summer or closer to autumn.
Conclusion! Astilba self-sowing is not a rare phenomenon. Getting 1-2 seedlings from a bush is quite realistic. The main thing is not to remove faded panicles in early varieties and not to expect the children to repeat parental traits.
In general, perennials turn out decorative, often with white and pale pinkish racemes.
Seeds for seedlings
Sellers sell bags with seeds of varietal astilba no less successfully than rhizomes. The gardener has the opportunity to choose the color he likes or the desired height of the plant and start germinating seedlings.
To track the pattern, and to establish the timing of seed germination, so far none of the gardeners has succeeded Adult astilbes with well-developed roots prefer to grow in loam. Gentle shoots need to organize a mixture of peat and sand, mixed in equal quantities.
Calendar March is the time when seeds come out of deep dormancy, the acquisition of the ability to germinate. However, the start may be delayed for 3-5 months, due to the specific characteristics of the seeds, in particular, the underdevelopment of the embryos. The process of awakening astilba goes through several stages. At the same time, a number of them proceed imperceptibly, without visible manifestations of seed growth.
Action algorithm:
- a wide and low container is filled with a wet substrate;
- seeds are scattered on the surface of the soil;
- spray them abundantly with a spray bottle;
- capacity for 2-3 weeks put in the refrigerator for stratification;
- after the specified period, the seed is placed on a bright windowsill;
- regularly moisten the soil.
On a note! The emergence of seedlings 3-5 months after sowing for astilba is the norm. It is important to maintain optimal substrate moisture during this period.
The practice of using powdered hydrogel in agricultural technology is not new. Some gardeners got used to growing seedlings of not only tomatoes, but also astilbes in it. It is believed that the seeds in the gel germinate faster. If you have to wait months for seedlings in the soil, then when sown in a polymer, the period is reduced to 3-4 weeks. How to propagate astilba in a hydrogel? What are the mistakes of beginner gardeners?
To remove sprouts from the surface of a napkin, filter paper, gauze, you will need tweezers The algorithm of actions when germinating seeds in a polymer is similar to the procedure when using soil:
- the gel is diluted according to the annotation to the drug (sometimes excess water is drained);
- put damp filter paper on top;
- astilba seeds are scattered on the surface;
- spray them with a spray bottle;
- the container is removed in the refrigerator;
- removed after 10-20 days;
- put the container in a bright place and wait for the emergence of seedlings.
As a rule, astilbe sprouts peck before the stated time. Sometimes even in the refrigerator, during the stratification period. This is a signal that the plant needs to be transplanted into a pot with peat and sand. Further, the seedlings are followed by standard care: watering, diving, transplanting into open ground.
Three main mistakes of inexperienced gardeners:
- sowing astilba in gel without paper (napkins), when the seeds are literally buried in the polymer and simply suffocate;
- untimely removal of the seedling from the gel, when young roots are deformed and rot due to lack of oxygen;
- turning the container into a greenhouse, which at times increases the humidity of the environment and destroys sensitive sprouts.
Working on the bugs will allow you to get a few cherished astilba bushes or propagate your favorite variety.
On a note! perennial, grown seed way, blooms in the 3rd, less often in the 2nd year.
When to transplant into seedlings?
Time of the procedure: spring, summer, early autumn. In principle, practice shows that during the period of active vegetation (and even flowering), astilbe takes root perfectly in a new place. The main thing is that the bush is sufficiently formed, strong and healthy, so that it can quickly adapt to new conditions.
Astilba budding is not an obstacle to finding a new place of residence In the spring, seedlings are transplanted after the threat of recurrent frosts has passed. Aggressive weather is quite capable of destroying young (2-year-old) plants. In summer, the bushes are moved at any time. In the fall - as early as possible, so that the perennial has time to take root before retiring.
The holes should be spacious enough, the post should be flavored with nutrients: complex fertilizer, ash. After planting the bush, it is important to water the soil well around and mulch it with grass and sawdust.
Reproduction of astilba by dividing the bush is an important "rejuvenating" procedure. From one old overgrown perennial, the gardener receives 2-4 new compact flowers. Ignoring this item for 5-7 years naturally leads to a loss of decorativeness of the plant, a decrease in the number of peduncles, crushing of inflorescences, and the death of part of the root.
Step-by-step instructions for dividing and transplanting astilba:
- at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground, stems and peduncles are cut;
- dig up a bush;
- with a shovel (knife) cut the rhizome into pieces with 3-5 buds;
- delenki are planted in the ground, observing a minimum distance of 30 cm.
Ashes are poured into a spacious hole, mineral fertilizers, and if desired, a hydrogel for long-term retention of moisture near the rhizome. After planting the astilba, the hole is well watered, the ground around is mulched with improvised materials.
This bush can be safely divided into 3-4 parts On a note! If the division of the perennial is carried out in the spring, in early March, astilba may bloom already in this season.
Rooting buds renewal
This method differs from dividing the bush in that planting material processed selectively. The gardener is not interested in a whole rhizome, but in young shoots (renewal buds). The shoot is cut off with part of the root. The cut is sprinkled with ash. The seedling is rooted in a pot with a substrate consisting of equal portions of peat and sand.
In open ground, astilba is best transplanted next spring. In a year, the delenka will have time to grow up and get stronger for new tests.
How to choose and propagate purchased planting material? See advice from Garden World:
When and why to divide astilba? The "newspaper gardener" answers:
Not all shade-loving plants have luxurious flowering, similar to a bright spot against a background of dark green foliage. Astilba differs from its herbaceous shade-tolerant relatives in its lush inflorescence in the form of a panicle. The opacity of the leaves gives a special look to the plant, allowing bright colors to show themselves.
About the meaning of the name astilba and a bit of history
Astilba got its name for the nondescript matte leaves: “A” - without, denial; "Stilba" - shine, it turns out "without shine." Scottish botanist Lord Hamilton was the first to classify the plant as herbaceous, which now has about 40 species, including perennial and annual varieties.
In nature, it occurs along the banks of water bodies, more often grows in broad-leaved forests, but can grow on shady slopes of highlands. Homeland is considered to be East Asia, North America, the Japanese Islands, where the astilba was first discovered. Wet places made green color dull, inconspicuous, but the inflorescences conquer gardeners.
European gardens got acquainted with the plant thanks to travelers who were looking for interesting, unusual things in different countries. Carl Thunberg and von Siebold brought the flower from Japan along with other exclusive items. The end of the 18th and the beginning of the 19th century is marked by the development of park culture in Russia, recreation and walks on fresh air become popular with the public. Having found its application in decorating shady gardens, banks of ponds, small artificial reservoirs, astilba has become popular among landscape designers and florists.
Description of astilba
How to grow astilba in the photo Astilbe ‘Bressingham Beauty’ (x arendsii)
Astilbe belongs to the herbaceous perennials, the upper part of which dies off for the winter, and the rhizome remains in the ground. The roots exposed during the summer period need to be covered with an additional layer of soil, and harsh climatic conditions require additional shelter with special industrial material or foliage.
Plant height ranges from 8 cm to 2 m, you can choose a representative for any flower bed or architectural structure. Miniature dwarf species barely reach 30 cm, their flexible stem forms an arc shape, for which they called the flower “drooping”. Known varieties with drooping inflorescences Tenberg, Lemoine. Despite the variety of colors, the choice remains on bright, saturated ones that will look expressive on the shady side of the garden.
The leaf plate is not uniform, depending on the variety and place of growth. Hue can vary from dark green in summer to brown-red in autumn. The leaf is planted on a long petiole, some varieties have a feathery shape, others have a jagged edge. Most species are represented by a complex leaf structure, consisting of several pointed heart-shaped leaflets.
The underground part of the plant is distinguished by its heterogeneity: there are species with a loose soft root, and some are strong tree-like ones. Many processes depart from the central rhizome, the lower ones die off, and new ones form on top. The plant increases the root system up by 3-5 cm, so the roots are exposed in the fall.
Astilbe in garden design Astilbe Japonica group ‘Europa’ mixborder photo
The original combination will be landing along with astilbes and hosts, or Volzhanka. You will get a delicate composition with various types of paniculate inflorescences. Simply airy mood!
Types and varieties of astilba with photos and names
Thanks to the many years of work of breeders, several hundred hybrid varieties astilbe. There are varietal groups specially designed for a warm or cold climate zone. Some species get along well with spreading plants, others need space. Before choosing seeds, you need to focus on weather climatic zone, neighboring plants of the flower bed, the degree of watering.
No more than 12 species are popular; Arendsa, Chinese, Japanese, and simple-leaved are suitable for growing in the garden. They do not require special conditions, unpretentious care.
Astilbe Arendsii Astilbe Arendsii
Created by crossing David's astilba with others, it has about 40 varieties with a long flowering period. Its inflorescences appear in early July, and closes the flowering season at the end of August. In autumn, it beautifully sets off other flowering plants with dark green foliage. The bushes are powerful, reach 1 m, having diamond-shaped or paniculate inflorescences. Known varieties: Amethyst, Weiss Gloria, Ruby (up to 80 cm), Diamond (up to 1 m).
Chinese Astilbe Astilbe chinensis
astilba Chinese variety Astilbe chinensis ‘Vision in Pink’ photo of flowers in the garden
It is a herbaceous shrub over 1 m with a heterogeneous green mass. The lower leaves are wide on long petioles, after flowering they have a neat appearance, filling the flower bed with a dark green lush mass. From above to the inflorescence, the leaves are short with a shiny texture. The stem ends 30-35 cm with a panicle of small, brightly colored flowers. It is represented by varieties not only of standard height (Purpulans, Pink, Red), but also undersized (Pumila Hort, up to 15 cm).
Astilbe Japanese hybrid Astilbe japonica hybrids
Astilba Japanese Astilbe ‘Montgomery’ (japonica hybrid) photo in the garden
A compact plant, the decorative value of which is the green mass of green, shiny leaves. Panicles of inflorescences begin to bloom by mid-June, which is several weeks earlier than other species. Excellent cold tolerance has made the species popular in a risky climate with a changeable temperature regime. The Montgomery terry astilbe is famous among flower growers; its inflorescences can be bright burgundy or red. There are varieties white shade- Deutschland, pink - Reiland, pale lilac - Europe.
Simple-leaved hybrid Astilbe Astilbe simplicifolia
Astilbe simpleleaf Astilbe Simplicifolia ‘Hennie Graafland’ photo of flowers in the garden
It is not at all suitable for a dry and hot climate, therefore, in the steppe zone, where the scorching sun, the plant will not have a place. calling card species are drooping varieties Thunberg, Prikoks Alba, their inflorescences create a floating web in a flower bed. Low growth, 25-50 cm, openwork panicles of inflorescences make the plant popular in border beds. More often used as an accent on the corners or central areas. This species can grow on sunny side, but the tone of the leaves will be lighter, and the flowers will not be as saturated.
Dwarf varieties can be grown in pots, they tolerate the home climate perfectly. Some flowering arrangements are suitable as a gift. Feels better on outdoors therefore, it is advisable to take flowerpots with room astilba in the summer to the balcony or terrace of a private house.
