How to properly prune conifers. Rules and techniques for pruning coniferous plants Pruning Scots pine
Conifers are especially popular with both professional landscape designers and amateurs. This is not surprising, since these plants are very diverse, unpretentious and look equally attractive both in the form of hedges, and in single and group landings. Most conifers are evergreens, it is for this reason that they are indispensable in the winter design of a personal plot. In order for the plants to always look beautiful, pruning is carried out. In order to avoid mistakes and not spoil your landings, you need to know the subtleties this process.
What is pruning for?
Pruning conifers and shrubs on the site always pursues certain goals, and therefore it is carried out only when necessary. Plants should be pruned for the following reasons:
- Formation - the owners of the plots often want to have conifers of a certain shape, and therefore they cut them, forming balls or pyramids from the crowns. During such a haircut, the most important thing is not to overdo it and not turn the tree into an unattractive bush.
- Maintaining a certain size - the size of a tree needs to be controlled only if it does not grow on open area. In the case of open space than more plant in size, the more likely it will look better. If the area does not allow leaving full height tree, it is periodically trimmed, thereby maintaining the desired size.
- Sanitary care - this event allows you to heal the plant, because all dried and broken branches are removed from it. All rubbing against each other are also cut off, since sooner or later, if injured, they will cause decay and subsequent diseases.
- Improving the appearance of old plants - unlike deciduous, after pruning, conifers do not give numerous branches, but if the plant has acquired an ugly appearance, then creativity pruning will again make its appearance attractive.
If the “indications” listed above are absent, then coniferous trees do not need to be cut, since they do not need regular shearing, which is most often done to increase branches.
Basic Rules
Pruning any conifer has its own specific rules that must be followed. If you break them, you can seriously harm the plant. At right approach sometimes a unique living work of art is obtained from a plant that will delight the owner long years. Beginners in trimming should not experiment and are recommended to start with shapes such as a cone and a ball. Having gained enough experience, you can move on to more complex figures.
When pruning, you need to remember these main rules:
- the first pruning is permissible only after a year of the plant's stay in a new place;
- following the design of the crown - often, to give a coniferous one or another shape, you can simply trim its crown slightly, and this must be identified before starting work;
- the maximum volume of cut mass (live) should not exceed 30%;
- avoiding leaving bare branches - unlike deciduous plants, conifers are not able to re-cover with greenery and simply die from exhaustion;
- application protective gloves- a number of conifers are poisonous, therefore, in order not to get burned by their juice, it is imperative to close your hands when working;
- the use of work clothes - the resin of plants is not washed off and, if it gets on things, remains on them forever. For work, they put on only what it is not a pity to throw away, or on which stains are not terrible;
- sharpening working tools - trimming devices are required as sharp as possible. They should easily cut and cut branches without kneading them at the cut point;
- cleaning tools before processing next plant- this allows you to prevent infection of plants with any infection.
The use of garden pitch is often not necessary, since the resin that will stand out from the wounds of the trees will replace it completely. It quickly creates a protective layer that prevents the penetration of bacteria and fungi into the tissues.
When and how to prune
The pruning period is great importance. Most often pruning coniferous trees held in the spring.
- Spring is the most suitable time for pruning in order to stimulate the appearance of new shoots, albeit not numerous. It is necessary to cut dwarf pine, thuja and juniper. The remaining species are left for shearing in more late dates.
- Summer - during this period, pruning is applicable to all species and helps to improve the penetration of light into the crown and accelerate the growth of trees. It is also useful for laying the kidneys. Removing old branches in the summer is most convenient.
- Autumn - pruning is carried out in plants that enter the growing season early. It will also be required to remove dry and damaged branches, which will only weaken the plant in winter. Species such as larch and cypress are optimally pruned in November.
It doesn't matter if coniferous trees are pruned in spring, summer or autumn, they must be done correctly. When working, you need to take into account the following points:
- 45 degree cut on the kidney. The lower edge of the cut is made no more than 2 mm higher than the upper;
- medium cut height - if too low, the resin flow will be unnecessarily long and weaken the tree, and if it is high, wound healing will be longer;
- vertical branches are cut to the outer bud;
- inclined branches are cut to the inner kidney;
- leaving up to 2 cm of a branch in front of the bud when carrying out work on shortening the shoots is necessary, it allows you to prevent the spread of the dying process to the bud.
Old thick branches are cut with a saw. They must be held so that, breaking off, they do not tear off the bark. If the wound formed at the site of the cut is very large, then to speed up the recovery of the plant, it is covered with var.
See how pruning is done coniferous plants you can in the following video:
It should be remembered that everyone can learn how to properly cut conifers.
Any pruning mature tree endures quite hard, even if it is planned to simply remove dry, diseased branches from the crown or those damaged by pests.
Therefore, before starting the procedure for pruning coniferous plants and trees, you should examine them well and decide whether such a procedure is really needed.
Pruning conifers is not necessary annually. Unless in order to remove diseased and damaged branches, pruning should be resorted to every year.
The formation of the crown of a coniferous tree should be started when it is planned to use the tree as a hedge or as a landscape decoration, for example, to make a spherical or pyramidal crown.
Regardless of whether the tree or shrub is coniferous, their pruning procedure is the same.
When is pruning of coniferous trees and shrubs carried out?
Coniferous trees and shrubs are recommended to be pruned at the end winter period or early spring for the purpose of stimulating lush and healthy branches in spring time, as well as reduce the risk of various types of fungal diseases at this time of the year.
After all, the bark is more vulnerable at a time when the period of tree development begins. much depends on when the pruning of coniferous trees and shrubs is carried out, the time of their development, the spread of the crown, and much more.
There is a catch in that most conifers do not withstand serious pruning. The only exception is one coniferous plant - yew. It is the strongest and most hardy species of conifers.
During the pruning process, green foliage can be taken into account, but it is not advisable to touch the brown areas of adult plants, since these places are not recoverable. From which it follows that the tree will lose its attractiveness.
For cutting, choose sharp and right size tools. Also, do not forget about disinfection. This will ensure the safety and efficiency of the process. Tools for this type of procedure include a pruner, garden shears, and a medium-sized hacksaw.
In one run, it is forbidden to cut more than thirty percent of the total green mass of the tree.
Larch and cypress are best cut in November.
The correct cut should have a 45 degree angle to the kidney.
If there is a desire for the plant to grow as it should by nature, then you can simply thin out the internal branches.
If thuja or cypress acts as a coniferous tree, then you can remove only a couple of leading main branches, and later trim the tips of the shoots.
So, if such actions are repeated every two years in spring period or in July, then the tree will not grow so much in width, but will only become thicker and more attractive.
How to properly prune conifers on the site?
How to do your own pruning of conifers on personal plot? much depends on the type of tree and its biological characteristics. You should also cut off those conifers that were grafted not so long ago and do not grow properly. The purpose of pruning is to balance growth.
So, for example, pruning a prickly spruce that has recently been grafted will not allow several tops to form, which can suddenly grow in different directions and interfere with each other. In this type of conifer, only the side branches should be cut and the shoots shortened so that the shape of the crown of the tree is more like a pyramid.
Certain types of conifers with variegated leaves are able to lose their color over time. You can fix this by trimming. So, for example, after the crown formation procedure, the cypress tree turns into a denser plant with luxurious silver needles. But if you forget about pruning the plant, then it will stretch out, the trunk will become bare, and the lower part of the tree will turn yellow.
Junipers and yews should be pruned in early spring. It is recommended to cut large side shoots.
It is also advisable to prune coniferous plants that have the shape of a ball at the beginning of the spring period.
In pines, active growth begins in summer. When pruning, you need to use a pruner and cut off parts of the lateral young shoots with it, without damaging the lateral buds, as other shoots will then grow from them.
Large trees should be pruned carefully. It is advisable to inspect it around in advance. And it is best to start the process from the top, leave the tree in this form for several years, and later cut the side shoots and start forming the crown. Old branches are not recommended for amateur gardeners to remove, since the tree is very long time after that, he gets sick and may die.
Video footage on how to properly prune coniferous trees can be viewed below.
Pruning conifers - a creative process
Pruning coniferous trees in order to form a crown is a very long and painstaking, individual and creative process.
There are a lot of known in the world various kinds decorative coniferous trees. But today we will look at the most simple ways pruning and pinching ordinary wild trees and pines.
On our site and near it, as well as on the ditches and along the road, many pine and spruce seedlings have grown. Some leave them to grow in their place, but many transplant them to a plot or a nearby green area. So did we. Moreover, seedlings were transplanted both in spring and autumn. The result was equally positive.
The only thing that must be sustained is the former orientation of the plant to the north and south .
To this end, before transplanting to a branch pointing north (or south), we tie a small rope. After that, it will be impossible to make a mistake. As a result, we got a survival rate of 100%.
One year was given to our trees to take root in a new place. Throughout the season, the plants were watered abundantly on the needles. A year later, when new young shoots appeared, they made the first pinch.
What is the difference between pruning conifers and pinching?
Pruning of conifers, regardless of the type of plant, implies a cut or saw cut of a branch or part of a tree trunk different ages. They try to prune young trees that have reached 3 years. But you can do it later: even at the age of 10 or more.
The fact is that under the influence of unstable climatic conditions in the process of growth, a part of the branches may be damaged in a tree. Or you will not like their direction, which may also change over time, for example, under the influence of neighboring plants.
Pinching coniferous is breaking out completely or part of a young shoot, which in pine is often called a candle.
Why do you need pinching and pruning of conifers?
The main task of pinching is to make the branches of plants (where there are needles) thicker and fluffier.
If you only pinch, but not as usual, they break off one third of the growth, and by removing most of the lateral growth and completely removing vertical shoots, you can greatly slow down the growth of the plant.
For small gardens with plots of 6-8 acres, this is fully justified.
Pruning conifers helps to give the desired shape to the tree to a greater extent. Those branches that cannot be cut with a pruner are removed with a garden file.
The cut is processed with a knife so that the cut and hemp are not visible.
This procedure is desirable to do in the spring, the wound heals faster. You can repeat pruning several times per season. At what, who is too lazy, the place of the cut can not be processed with anything. The resin that comes out will protect the plant.
In the above photos, our pines, which were pinched for 4 years.
As long as their lower branches are not cut off. Now that the trees have reached a height of 2.5-3 meters, it will be possible to start shaping them. To make a crown in the shape of a ball, it is necessary to cut off the lower branches and remove the central stem shoot. After that, we will begin to form a crown from symmetrically located radial shoots. The next task, pinching young shoots every year, is to get branching in a horizontal plane, as in the example in the photo.
By controlling the length of the broken off part of the shoot, it is possible to achieve a uniform growth of branches, giving the tree the necessary shape.
spruce formation
Spruce can also be formed into a ball (see photo).
But more often spruces are used for growing hedges. Over time, when after repeated pinching they become more or less dense, you can move on to a haircut. In this case, the top and sides of the hedge can be formed as desired.
Since in this case there is a large amount of work to be done, special electric scissors are used.
By the way, note that the worker in the photo cuts, and does not pinch, young shoots on a pine tree. In many articles they write: in order not to spoil appearance, you need to pinch the candles. We did just that. But when there is a large front of work, it is apparently not up to it. Our pines will now also be cut.
garden bonsai
Pines are softer and more flexible than spruces (especially in spring). That's why curly haircut and work with branches to give them a bizarre and unusual shape is done on pine trees.
In order to direct the branch in the right direction, use a wire and extensions. With stretch marks, everything is clear: the branch is pulled down and to the side with the help of a rope, pulling and driving a peg with the second end of the rope into the ground. How the wire is attached to the branch can be seen in the photo.
By bending the branch together with the wire, we achieve the required position. This must be done in the spring. The wire is removed in late July - early August, so that the bark has time to recover from the effects of the wire tormentor before winter.
Tips for caring for coniferous trees
Every year in the spring, remove dry needles from the branches, especially in the thickened part of the plants, where there is not enough ventilation.
After pinching, it is advisable to spray the crown of the tree with a 7% solution of urea. It will be both as top dressing and as a remedy for the fungus.
Do not forget to water the plants with water over the needles in the spring, as in the strong sun there is an intensive evaporation of moisture from the needles, and the roots of the tree cannot yet absorb moisture from the frozen soil. This leads to wilting and yellowing of the needles.
Conclusion
Pruning conifers and pinching is a laborious and painstaking annual task. But the results of the work bring joy to yourself and your loved ones.
Good luck to everyone in your work and see you on the pages. follows.
P.S. If you do not have the strength or time to perform these works with coniferous trees, experts will come to the rescue. Already formed plants can be bought in numerous nurseries such as Imperial Garden near Moscow (see photo).
Popularity and attractiveness coniferous plants is based on the fact that, having a high decorative effect throughout the year, they imply low operating costs of time and money for care. Many conifers come from regions with low rainfall, poor soil characteristics, and extreme temperature fluctuations, so they are considered hardy and unpretentious plants. All they need is a little occasional pruning to help keep them healthy and highly ornamental.
When you think about pruning any plants, especially conifers, remember old proverb: "Seven times measure cut once". It is not necessary to measure seven times, two is enough. Because you have to answer yourself two important issues: "Why do I want to cut this ephedra?" and “What kind of plant is this, and what are the rules for pruning it?”. Only by knowing the answers to both of these questions will you be able to prune without harming the plants.
First ask yourself: why?
Never prune conifers just like that. It must be remembered that they do not have such a recreational ability to give new shoots, like other trees and shrubs, so pruning is always done with specific goals. Namely…
Shaping
Many want from their conifers high decorative and unusual shapes. Carried away by the formation of a pyramidal, spherical or other shape of an object, one should not mindlessly get carried away, so as not to make beautiful tree inconspicuous shrub.
Size control
In a way, this is the weakest reason for pruning. If desired tree planted in right place, its size shouldn't be a problem. However, beginner gardeners often find themselves in a position where the tree is growing faster than expected, and it becomes necessary to keep the size of this conifer within the desired limits.
Wellness
Removal of dead, diseased or damaged branches should be done at any time as soon as the problem and conditions arise so that it can be safely removed. Removing branches that cross and potentially rub against each other is important because these injuries can be the starting point for serious illness.
Rehabilitation
With rare exceptions, conifers do not produce masses of branches again if cut. This is their difference from many deciduous trees and shrubs. However, to restore old, ugly conifers, use some creative pruning techniques to achieve a pleasing appearance.
Features of pruning different conifers
Conifers include a wide range of plants, all with various types needles, and react differently to trimming. This is due to differences in the structure of growth: how and when a tree gives new buds, experiences growth shocks, or, conversely, stops growing. When you prune a coniferous plant, the specifics of this process largely depend on these growth patterns, and, therefore, on a particular conifer. Here are some identification tips and guidelines to follow when pruning the most common conifers.
Pruning conifers with a fan arrangement of needles: arborvitae, juniper, etc.
The structure of the needles in such plants is relatively soft, they are arranged in a fan along the stems. The foliage (of which the needles are a modification) feels scaly to the touch. Plants can be pruned during the period of growth activation in late spring or early summer.
Unlike some conifers, these trees and shrubs will not form new buds on old wood. If you're cutting back old stems, don't think they'll grow back. As a rule, pruning of such plants is done for size control and shaping, therefore, it can only be carried out during the period of growth activation, when the stems are still green and pliable.
Prune conifers at the end of winter or in early spring. In general, conifers should be pruned in late winter or early spring to encourage lush, healthy new branches and foliage in the spring. There is also less risk of fungal infections at this time of year because the bark is more easily damaged when the trees are growing.
Choose sharp, properly sized tools. Tools used for pruning coniferous trees should always be sharp as it is safer and more efficient. You can determine which type of tool to use based on the size of the pruned branches.
- If the branches are less than 1.25 cm thick, use a hand pruner or a sliding blade pruner that comes with scissors. If the branches are more than 1.25 cm thick but less than 3.8 cm in diameter, use a lopper or lopper.
- When the branches are more than 3.8 cm in diameter, use a file. Hedge trimmers or shears can be used to shape conifers that are grown as a hedge or to maintain them in a particular state.
Disinfect pruning tools before use. It is recommended that gardeners disinfect any tools they are going to use with alcohol or regular bleach before they start pruning their trees. This helps prevent any pollutants from being unintentionally spread throughout the yard.
Determine which branches can and should be cut. The main trunk of coniferous trees, as a rule, is not cut off. However, if the tree has a second trunk, you can cut the weaker trunk. You can also trim the branches to keep the conifer tidy if necessary.
- Remove entire branches to thin out overgrown growth if necessary and open inner part coniferous trees for better sun exposure and air circulation. Branches that grow at an angle should also be removed.
- However, choose branches carefully. Once an entire branch is removed from either a coniferous tree or a shrub, it will not grow back.
Cut branches at an angle of 45°-60° in the correct location. Trim entire branches at a 45°-60° angle near the neck of the branch.
- Be very careful not to damage the neck of the branch, the raised bark at the base of the branch.
- Large branches should be cut 15.2-30.5 cm from the neck of the branch.
Make two cuts in each branch. Cut about half of the branch from the bottom, then cut half from the top, about 2.54 cm further where the cut was made on the bottom branch.
- The weight of the branch will break it. This will eliminate the bulk of the branch and protect the neck of the branch from damage. Trim the rest of the branch to the neck of the branch.
- When only part of a branch is cut, the cut should be made at 0.6. see for new leaf bud.
Check the pruning requirements for specific species. Some conifers have specific requirements when it comes to pruning, so it's important that you take them into account.
- For example, a pine tree has a main trunk that can be reduced to 25.4 cm of stump in order to produce a squat, more compact tree. The side branches at the top should be trimmed until they are 12.7 cm shorter than the top branch. Branches pointing down can be cut, decreasing them in ascending order, forming a completely pyramid-like shape.
- Branches on Douglas fir that are taller than 12.7 cm should not be cut because this puts the plants at greater risk for fungal infections.
Be sure to remove any diseased parts of the tree. In conifers with a disease problem, branches should be cut at a distance of 12.7 cm from the infected areas, taking care to cut only live wood.
- Gardeners must wait for dry weather to prune stunted trees because this will reduce the spread of pathogens. It's also important to clean and sterilize pruning shears with a household disinfectant before and after each use to help reduce the spread of disease. Use a rag to wipe disinfectant off the pruners before using them again, as the disinfectant may damage the tree.
- Diseased parts of the tree should either be burned or left for local waste disposal crews. These branches should not go into the compost bin.
Consider hiring a professional company to trim the trees for you. If the evergreens about which in question are near power lines, it is better to hire a reputable tree trimmer rather than fix the problem yourself.
- Owners are encouraged to shop nearby and invite a few professionals to do the work they need to do before choosing a company to do the task for them.
- In this way, everyone will get the best deals and avoid unnecessary expenses and unnecessary procedures.
