Why does a plum suddenly dry up? Diseases and pests of the plum, from which the tree dries and plum leaves curl. The drain dries up - the cause and solution of the problem. How to properly care for a tree so that it bears fruit for many years and does not hurt? Plum not wake up
Many gardeners do not know what to do if the plum dries. First of all, you need to find out the causes of the disease: improper care, adverse weather conditions, damage to the tree by diseases or pests. The plant can be saved subject to certain rules.
Wrong care
For health and development fruit crop need to provide the necessary and proper care.
Violation of the water balance
Plum is sensitive to watering: it does not accept drying out of the soil and excessive wetting. From a large amount of water, the roots do not receive oxygen and die, and nutrients do not reach the branches, leaves, fruits. With a lack of water during flowering and the formation of ovaries, the plum can drop them.
You can prevent the tree from drying out right mode watering, which is increased during the drought period (water consumption should be 10 liters per 1 m2). Planting is not carried out in places where moisture stagnates. If it needs to be taken away, special grooves are made.
decay
If on the soil surface long time under the snow, the temperature is 0 ° C, the tree spends a lot of reserves and strength to breathe. The bark is depleted, the tissues disintegrate, after the winter the plum begins to dry out.
So that the tree does not suffer due to dampening, it is worth compacting the snow around the trunk. You can shovel the snow from the plum, let the ground freeze a little and return the snow under the plant.
Freezing wood
Low temperatures are detrimental to plums. If in winter the tree froze, then in the spring there is a rapid drying out. It is no longer possible to save the plant, so it is worth paying special attention to the prevention of freezing. Actions are as follows:
- choice of variety according to climatic conditions. For regions with severe winters, the species must be hardy;
- the right choice of location. Northern slopes, low-lying areas where cold air stagnates will not work;
- proper preparation for winter. The bark should be cleaned and whitewashed with limestone mortar, cover the tree;
- in winters with little snow, they rake the snow to the trunk and trample it down. This will protect it and the roots from frost.
Diseases
Dried young shoots and leaves may indicate the development of the disease. It is worth carefully examining the plant for symptoms of diseases characteristic of the culture.
Gum treatment
Gum disease is characterized by leakage clear liquid from the bark of a tree, which then hardens. So the plant reacts to damage caused by frost or sunburn, and heals itself. The causes of the disease can also be abandoned near areas or environmental violations. If you do not take action, over time the tree weakens, the branches begin to dry out. The culture becomes vulnerable to other more serious diseases.
For treatment, you need to cut the growths to healthy tissue with a knife and treat the wounds with copper sulfate or garden pitch. In case of severe damage, remove branches.
Viral diseases
The carrier of the pathogen is often aphids. Sometimes you can buy an already infected seedling. It will no longer be possible to save the plant if the leaves have wilted and the branches have dried up due to a virus infection. The tree needs to be uprooted.
Sharka (smallpox)
One of the most common diseases The carrier of the pathogen is often aphid, which infects almost all types of stone fruit crops: cherry plum, cherry, apricot, sweet cherry, etc. Symptoms: the appearance of light spots on the leaf plates, which turn yellow over time, and the leaves dry out. The fruits turn brown, deform, quickly fall off.
mosaic spotting
Chlorotic spots appear on the leaves, in the center of which a hole forms. Dead tissue falls off. Leaf plates become small, narrow, wrinkle.
fungal diseases
Pathogens are activated at high humidity, especially in rainy summers. Fungi often cause plums to dry out.
Cytosporosis
Symptoms: dots appear on the bark that resemble goose bumps, over time they turn brown. The branches in the affected areas dry out.
After the fungus enters deep into the tissue, the tree dies. To combat cytosporosis, 3% Bordeaux liquid or fungicides are used.
Clusterosporiasis
The second name is perforated spotting. Brown spots with a dark border appear on the leaves, in the center of which holes form. The disease also affects flowers, bark and fruits. The infection penetrates to the bone.
To overcome clasterosporiasis, damaged branches should be removed and burned. Coat the wounds with garden pitch. 2 weeks after flowering, the plant must be treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol (30 g per 10 liters of water).
Rust
Symptoms of the disease initially appear on the leaves in the form of red spots, whose size gradually increases. The tree weakens, the leaves fall. The culture becomes vulnerable to freezing, as a result of which it dries out.
Rust treatments:
- before flowering - copper sulfate (40 g per 5 liters of water), consumption per plant - 3 liters;
- after harvest - Bordeaux liquid.
Fallen leaves should be collected and burned.
Moniliosis (gray rot)
The fruits begin to rot right on the branches. Affected shoots dry out quickly. Plums and leaves do not fall off.
Spraying against the disease is carried out during flowering, so the toxicity of drugs should be taken into account so as not to harm the bees. Safer are Fitolavin, Horus, Skor, Topsin-M. Processing is carried out during the following periods:
- from bud swelling to flowering;
- during flowering;
- after flowering.
late blight
The disease often begins to affect the roots, clogs the vessels of the plant. Drying develops rapidly. The tree dies within 2-3 years. Treat the plant with fungicides. The drug Fitosporin effectively fights the disease.
verticillium wilt (wilt)
Attacks young cultures. In July or August, the leaves curl and dry up. The process begins at the bottom of the branches, gradually rises and captures young shoots. By the end of summer, the trees may be left without leaves. Often they fall off only part of the crown. Vessels that are visible on the saw cut die off in the branches. Against wilt in summer and spring, the drug Hom is used (40 g per 10 liters of water).
Bacterial diseases
If the plum has dried up, then it is worth looking for the cause among the diseases that cause various microorganisms.
Bacterial spotting
Small spots in the form of circles or stripes appear on the leaves. Their border turns yellow and dries. Fruits are also affected - they are covered with dark spots with a flaky surface. The plum dries up completely.
Witch's broom
The disease is distinguished by thin overgrown branches, the leaves on which are covered with a bloom from below. Such shoots do not give fruits, but take on most of the nutrition.
Against bacterial diseases, a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) or 5% azofoska is used. Antibiotics are also used. Processing is carried out 3 times per season with an interval of 4-6 days.
Pests
Drying out of a plant can be caused by insects that feed on its sap. Rodents can also be harmful.
Water rat
In winter, it eats around the bark of young trees, in summer - their roots, as a result of which the plum dries completely. It is difficult to deal with a rodent, so the area must be kept clean and not littered. The main methods of struggle:
- At the end of autumn, the trunk is covered with spruce branches with needles down.
- After a snowfall and during thaw days, they trample down the snow, then the rats cannot overcome it.
plum aphid
Insect colonies cover the undersides of leaves and young shoots and feed on plant sap. Aphid secretions attract ants, flies and wasps.
The pest must be washed off with water from a hose and the tree treated with one of the preparations: Karbofos, Sharpei, Inta-Vir. Nearby you can plant onions, garlic, Dalmatian chamomile, which repel insects.
spider mite
Damages the leaves: they become discolored, especially along the main and lateral veins, change color to brown and curl. In hot weather, leaf fall is possible.
Control measures: destruction of weeds, trees are washed with organophosphorus compounds or sprayed with biological pesticides.
Shchitovka
Convex spots and growths appear on the leaves, which are difficult to separate. They become covered with honeydew (sticky liquid), lose their luster, bald spots and black spots appear on the damaged areas. The bark of the tree is cracking.
Insecticides Aktara, Bankol, Biotlin will help in the fight. The bark from damaged areas is scraped off with metal brush. Affected parts, if possible, are cut and destroyed.
Disease prevention
So that the plum does not shed its leaves and does not dry out entirely, it is worth paying great attention to care.
Prevention is as follows:
- correct and timely pruning tree;
- covering wounds with garden pitch;
- treatment of instruments with disinfectants;
- harvesting fallen leaves and fruits;
- purchase of seedlings in proven nurseries;
- autumn and spring whitewashing with limestone mortar;
- sowing green manure (fungi do not like them);
- timely processing chemicals;
- regular inspection of the tree;
- keeping the distance between plants;
- warning mechanical damage bark and fruits;
- digging the soil around the trunk.
Conclusion
If the plum began to dry out, it is worth starting treatment immediately, because. disease can affect others horticultural crops. Proper care is the key to the health of the plum and its good wintering, in which the plant will not get sick and will give a high yield.
If the cause of drying has not been identified or nothing can be done, it is worth leaving the tree alone. It can start up a new shoot and a dried bud.
Plum often suffers from low temperatures in winter. The most annoying thing is that the flower buds are damaged first, and only then the growth buds and branches. Therefore, if the tree did not bloom in the spring, there is only one reason - the winter turned out to be too harsh for the plum tree.
PROTECT YOUR ROOTS YOUNGER
Worst of all, when the roots freeze. This happens especially often with non-hardy varieties. If the branches can withstand temperatures down to -40 ° C, then the roots suffer already at -16 ° C.
Only snow can save the roots. But if too much of it falls out, there is a risk of the bark at the root collar aging out. If the bark breaks around the ring, then the tree dies. If it only partially covers the root neck - also nothing good - the tree withers and may die. The risk of neck warming is especially great if the mulch is laid out close to the root neck or when the tree is planted in a deep place.
BURN ON THE DRAIN IS NOT A PLACE
The winter troubles for trees do not end there. On trunks with south side sunburn can occur due to strong differences in day and night temperatures. As a result, the bark on the trees bursts and dies. In unfavorable winters, there can be especially many such cracks, and in the spring, gum flows out of stone fruits.
You can determine if the plum is frozen or not with the help of a pruner. They cut branches and, if wood orange color, which means that the plum suffered from frost. The foliage on such trees blooms unfriendly, does not reach normal size, and trees often die by mid-summer.
Frostbite Prevention
To reduce the risk of freezing plum trees, protracted growth of branches in autumn should be avoided, and fruit-bearing trees should not be allowed to be exhausted by a bountiful harvest. For the sake of this, part of the ovaries is shaken after flowering.
If the second half of the summer is dry, regular watering should be carried out, since even mild winters are dangerous for plums on dry soil.
WITH WATER - CAUTION
With normal watering, the bark suffers less from burns, and the frost resistance of the buds increases.
Only without fanaticism.For plums, waterlogging is no less harmful than a complete lack of water. And so that the roots do not freeze out in winter, lay out mulch around the periphery of the crown. At the same time, bypass the root neck so that the tree does not rot.
To root neck did not freeze, trample the snow near the trunk. At the same time, this will make it difficult for mice to access the bark of the tree. In the fall, the irrigation borders are destroyed so that the water in the bowls does not stagnate with melting snow.
WHITEWASHING IS VERY NEEDED
To prevent sunburn, trunks and forks of skeletal branches are whitewashed with lime with the addition of clay and copper sulfate. Early in the spring, whitewashing is repeated.If cracks (frost cracks) still appear, tightly tie the trunk with burlap.
CORA TREATMENT
If the bark has been damaged over a large area, in the spring they clean the wound with a knife to healthy wood. Then washed with 2-3% iron vitriol and covered with garden pitch. Large wounds are covered with clay.
Frost-damaged plum trees can be restored by pruning. To more accurately determine the damage zone, wait for the buds to open. If only the tops of the branches are frozen, cut them back to healthy tissue.
CUTTING AFFECTED BRANCHES
If the wood of the skeletal branches is damaged, shorten each of the branches to the point where the active growth of the shoots began. In severely damaged trees, it is important to keep all healthy branches.
Start pruning trees after a harsh winter in April. First, remove the obviously frozen parts of the plants, and in the summer, when plum branches that have not recovered from damage are visible, continue pruning. Branches that have not recovered usually have small or withering leaves, but the trees still bloom. Don't expect these flowers to bear fruit. The sooner you remove the frozen branches, the greater the hope of saving the tree itself.
Early spring watering with subsequent maintenance helps to restore the crown after freezing. normal humidity soils, as well as root and foliar top dressing urea solution or complex fertilizer low concentration (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
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The plum is a stone fruit found in every garden.
At proper care, the tree brings a large number of tasty and juicy fruits that can be pickled, make jam, cook compotes and make excellent tinctures.
The tree has a wide variety of varieties that take root well in different climatic conditions.
Plum fruits are a storehouse of useful substances, among which are: calcium, phosphorus, mineral salts, proteins, carbohydrates, chromium, iodine, zinc, copper, as well as a large amount of vitamins (A, B1, B2, B6, C, PP, E).
During cultivation, the plum loves space, so that neighboring crowns do not close, so this point is important to consider when planting. Special attention it is worth paying fertilizers, they must be applied strictly in the amount indicated in the instructions, otherwise the tree can be seriously harmed. It is important to select pollinating varieties, so the tree will not only bloom well, but also bring a bountiful harvest.
Plum dries up: why
There are many reasons why plums dry up. Among the main ones, it is worth mentioning improper care throughout the year and climate change. Do not forget about diseases and pests that bring unpleasant consequences to the plant. However, if the tree is treated in time and the pests are destroyed, then it will continue to grow well and bear fruit abundantly.
Plum dries up: what to do - weather reasons
Strange as it may seem, but stone fruit trees, are very sensitive to watering. If drinking regimen broken, this can lead to drying of the plum and poor fruiting. The plant needs high-quality watering, especially during flowering and ovary formation.
Plum is very intolerant very coldy, since on the territory of our country it appeared much later than other fruit trees. The plant has not yet fully adapted to climatic features. Cold has a bad effect on the condition of the whole plant, which leads to drying. To avoid an unpleasant situation, it is worth choosing frost-resistant varieties. Unfortunately, even choosing right sort, you can not completely insure the tree from freezing. Such unpleasant consequences can be avoided if the plant is properly cared for throughout the year. Throughout the year, the plum needs some care:
November - December, it is necessary to thoroughly trample the snow around the tree so that the mice do not penetrate the seedling. It is necessary to shake off snow from the branches of the plant to prevent the branches from breaking off;
January, if the winter is practically snowless, then the available amounts of snow must be raked up to the tree trunk and thoroughly trampled down. Such actions will protect the roots and trunk from freezing;
February, the snow must be removed from the tree trunk and the winter harness removed. The plum trunk must be whitewashed with limestone mortar (for 10 liters of water, 3 kg of lime and 2 kg of clay are needed), such manipulations will help the tree to transfer temperature changes;
March, in the middle of the month, you need to start cutting the plum;
April, it is necessary to dig trenches to divert melt water, so a lot of moisture will not penetrate to the root of the tree. The soil around the trees must be dug up, and scattered around nitrogen fertilizers, they will provide excellent growth, development and flowering. To save the plant from possible spring frosts, it is worth preparing smoke heaps in advance that will warm the tree;
May, if the temperature is about +1 °C, then it is necessary to set fire to the smoke heaps. It is better to finish smoking 1-2 hours after sunrise. After which it is desirable to water the tree warm water and spray the crown. In hot weather, the plum needs abundant watering (about 6 buckets for 1 tree). Before flowering, the plant needs mineral and organic fertilizers;
June - July, it is necessary to water and feed the plant. organic fertilizers you need to dilute 1:10 and pour 5 buckets of solution under the tree. Urea must be diluted with 10 liters of water 1 tablespoon of fertilizer and pour 5 buckets under the tree;
August - September, the tree needs to be fed, so fertilizer will nourish the tree with all useful substances which will prevent freezing and subsequent drying. In autumn, the tree must be watered abundantly (about 7 buckets), this will help it to winter;
October, the trunk must be cleaned of various damage and whiten with lime, just as in February.
Proper care is the key to a good wintering and the health of the whole tree. Following such simple rules you can protect the plum from frost and other weather conditions. So the plum will not dry out, but rather will bring good harvest.
Plum dries up: what to do - pests and diseases
The yield of plums directly depends on the "health of the tree." Gardeners need to have a good knowledge of plant diseases and, if necessary, take urgent action.
1. Spotting perforated- This is a fungal disease that affects leaves, flowers and bark. It is most active in the spring when it rains. Brown spots appear on the plant, surrounded by a darker border. Holes appear on the leaves over time, and the fruits stop growing in the affected areas and the disease penetrates to the very bone.
To prevent plum disease, it is necessary to prune the tree annually, not allowing it to thicken. In autumn, fallen leaves should be removed, and the soil around it should be dug up. Affected branches should be cut and burned, and the wounds healed. If the disease has not receded, then the tree must be sprayed with Bordon liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (30 g per 10 liters of water). This should be done 2 weeks after flowering.
2. Gommoz- a disease that manifests itself in the form of a brownish thick resin. It is quite common on brush fruit trees. Resin appears in places that have been damaged by frost or sunburned. Usually the affected plum branches dry up. The disease appears due to adverse conditions, and it can also develop due to the large amount of nitrogen and moisture in the soil.
The drain must be properly and timely looked after, as well as prevent mechanical damage. The resulting wounds must be immediately cleaned and disinfected (petralatum). If the branches are significantly affected, they are best cut and destroyed. The affected bark must be cleaned and rubbed with horse sorrel, and then lubricated with garden pitch.
3. Rust- This fungal disease, which initially affects the leaves. Red spots appear on the outer side of the leaf, which increase in size. A diseased tree becomes weaker, begins shedding its leaves prematurely, and is prone to freezing, leading to drying out.
Fallen leaves must be destroyed in a timely manner. Before flowering, the tree must be sprayed with copper chloride (40 g per 5 liters of water, 3 liters of solution are needed per tree). At the end of the harvest, the plum must be treated with Bordon liquid.
It is worth paying attention to the pests that infect the tree and this can lead to the drying of the plum.
1. Goldentail- it's a butterfly white color, its size is about 5 cm. During the swelling of the buds, the insect harms the leaves and buds of the tree. By the end of May, the caterpillar pupates and a butterfly appears, which lives in the bark, and on reverse side leaves she lays eggs. To destroy the pest, it is necessary to treat the plum with karbofos even before flowering.
2. ringed silkworm - This moth, about 4 cm in size, her wings are grayish in color. In spring, the insect eats leaves and buds. Control measures: before flowering, the tree must be sprayed with tinctures of wormwood, chamomile or tobacco. If folk methods doesn't work, you should try chemicals(Entobacterin, Dendrobacillin).
The plum dries up: what to do - if the reasons are not established
It may happen that it will not be possible to eliminate the causes of the drying of the plum.
The gardener could not save the tree from freezing or could not cure the disease and overcome the pest. Leave the plum alone.
Perhaps next year a new shoot will start from some preserved bud. If this does not happen, and the plum is completely dry, it is recommended to uproot the tree. A young seedling can be planted in its place only after three years.
It would seem that the planted plum is no longer a seedling, it has developed well for several years and is already ready for fruiting. But spring comes, and the buds on the tree do not wake up, or after flowering, the plum dries up for several weeks. The editors of HozGround identified 8 main reasons for this phenomenon.
The plum has dried up after the winter and the kidneys do not wake up
Even with proper care, the plum may not wake up after the winter. The cause of death in this case is most often frost and sun.
Very coldy
Plum cultivation in areas with severe climatic conditions associated with a number of difficulties, because even frost-resistant varieties are unable to resist low temperatures. However, natural disasters do not always lead to the death of a tree, sometimes the consequences are manifested in the form of a lack of flowering and drying of the branches.
If after the winter last year's growths dried up on the plums, it means that the branches did not have time to ripen, and the tree went into the winter unprepared.
The reason for this may be:
- cold, short summer preceding winter;
- summer radical pruning;
- wrong feeds.
To prepare the plum for wintering, you must adhere to the following rules:
- Nitrogen-containing preparations are applied in spring and early summer. Later top dressing plums lead to an active growth of shoots that do not have enough time to aging, and they bend around in slight frosts. In the spring they look dry and lifeless.
- Feeding plants with potassium contributes to the early maturation of young branches - it is enough to fertilize plums several times so that they do not freeze and dry out next season.
- So that trees can absorb trace elements and nutrients from the soil, they are fed with phosphorus, which is responsible for the development of fruits and the root system.
If the plum tree grows on acidic soils, then the applied fertilizers are not absorbed in full. In this case, the rate of dressing is increased by 1/4 or the soil is loosened (using lime or dolomite flour).
Sunburn
IN winter period for trees, not only severe frosts are terrible, but also the sun's rays. The first plum burns are obtained in late February - early March, due to the fact that dark trunks, absorbing direct sunlight, are able to heat up significantly under their influence, and then also cool down quickly. The snow cover in this case plays the role of a powerful reflector, enhancing the effect of light.
Such thermal shocks break the integrity of the bark and the inner layers of the wood. First appear on the tree dark spots, and then microcracks, which increase after the start of sap flow. The consequences of sunburn in plums are manifested:
- lagging behind in development;
- dropping the ovary;
- leaves and young shoots wither;
- the tree dries up.
To cure an affected plum tree, you must:
- With a disinfected knife, cut off the damaged areas of the bark.
- Treat the cut with an antifungal drug.
- As a healing agent, a mixture of clay and mullein is used in a proportional ratio of 1 to 3. The resulting composition is applied to the damaged area and fixed with bandages.
Sunburn is always easier to prevent than to treat. The fastest result is whitewashing the trunks and skeletal branches of the tree. The first treatment is carried out in the fall, before the arrival of frost.
For this purpose, use special paints or a mixture of slaked lime, glue and blue vitriol - both products protect the plum tree well from sunburn. If during the autumn rains the whitewash was washed off, the procedure is repeated at the end of winter and beginning of spring.
Not less than effective way fight against burns - wrapping a tree trunk with white covering material. This not only protects the bark from sun rays but also protects the tree from frost.
lack of moisture
Bare tops and dry branches in the plum crown can be a sign of a lack of moisture. Moreover, a tree can experience a shortage of water not only during the period of growth, but also during dormancy. Gardens, laid out on loose soils that are unable to retain water, suffer from a lack of moisture even in winter, and if there is a snowless frosty winter with multiple transitions through 0, then the problem is even more aggravated.
To prevent the trees from drying out and save the future harvest, plums planted on sandy or peat lands are thoroughly watered before the onset of cold weather and then the soil is mulched.
Root damage
Khrushchev cause serious damage to horticultural farms. If in the first season the larvae developing in the soil are not voracious enough and feed only on soft food, then from the second year they eat everything that comes their way. The larvae of some beetles spend up to 4 years underground. When the population grows to a critical size, they can very strongly gnaw the rhizomes of even large trees.
It is difficult to exterminate the beetle on the site - they move perfectly underground and can go to a depth of up to 70 cm, but regularly digging the ground around the trees and collecting larvae allows you to regulate their numbers. 
Spraying plum trees does not give much effect. Female beetles are able to cross long distances, and even if the trees on the site are processed, nothing will prevent the beetles from the neighboring garden from laying masonry on your plum.
To combat the bugs you need:
- install light traps;
- to not allow the growth of wheatgrass plot;
- dig the ground under the crowns of trees;
- plant lupins - this siderite is poisonous to larvae.
When planting a plum tree, in the area where there are Khrushchev, you should take care of the safety of its root system. So that the larvae do not gnaw weak roots, in landing pit fall asleep preparations Diozinan, Decis, Nemabakt, Arrivo, Match, etc.
Plum blossomed and withered - the cause of moniliosis
It is often necessary to observe a picture that a plum winters well, wakes up on time, blooms, even fruits are tied on it, but suddenly it begins to dry and dies. It happens that the period from the appearance of the first withered leaf to the complete death of the tree takes no more than a month.
A characteristic symptom of moniliosis is like leaves scorched by a fire. Monilial burn or moniliosis is a disease that affects mainly stone fruit crops. Infection
occurs during the flowering period of the plum, the pathogen (Monilia cinerea) penetrates the inside of the plant through the pistil of the flower. Most often, spores of the fungus are carried by pollinating insects, but sometimes a gust of wind is enough to cause infection.
It should not be assumed that if the plum was not infected during flowering, then the threat was over. A tree can get sick both during and after flowering.
Signs of moniliosis in plums:
- leaves lose tugur;
- the shoots of the current year wither;
- the ovary dries up and crumbles;
- shoots dry up.
It is difficult to treat moniliosis. Fungus Monilia cinerea, which provokes the disease, belongs to the department of ascomycetes, which are distinguished by survivability. Depending on the conditions, they can reproduce both by spores and sexually. If you do not carry out preventive work and timely treatment, within a few seasons you will lose all the trees in the garden. 
Treatment involves the removal of diseased shoots, capturing 7-10 cm of a healthy branch, and then spraying the trees with Bordeaux liquid or copper-based preparations at least 3-4 times per season. As an alternative means, you can use more modern and effective drugs such as Horus and Speed.
A few decades ago, plum moniliosis was found only in warm regions with a long, humid spring. Now the habitat of the pathogen has become much wider, and now even stone fruits growing in Siberia and the Urals are exposed to the disease.
What diseases can lead to dryness
Such diseases include verticillosis, plum pox and late blight.
verticillium wilt
living in upper layers soil, the almost colorless fungus Verticillium dahlia causes such a dangerous disease as verticillium.
Sclerotia fungi can be in an inactive state for up to 10 years, but with the onset of favorable conditions (temperature 20, humidity 70-80%), they begin to grow actively. Plant infection occurs through root system. As a result of the vital activity of the fungus, blood vessels are clogged, the tree loses the ability to absorb the required amount nutrients and moisture, its leaves begin to wither and dry out.
In exceptional cases, infection occurs through open cuts and wounds on the drain, so after pruning, all cuts should be treated with garden pitch or paint.
Sharka or plum pox
Another reason for premature drying and falling leaves is viral disease sharka or plum pox. The most common source of infection is:
- pruning plants with an infected tool;
- grafting to a healthy stock of infected cuttings;
- virus transmission by insects.
The first sign of smallpox in a plum is the appearance of light spots and veins on the leaf plates.
To date, plum sharka is not amenable to treatment. The only way contain the disease - burn the affected tree.
late blight
The causative agent of late blight penetrates the seedling through cracks and damage to the bark. The development of the disease is facilitated by high humidity and air temperature not lower than 10 ° C, as well as branches low above the ground and contact of fruits with soil. Treatment involves cleaning the lesions on the stems to healthy wood and disinfection with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, after which the wound is treated with garden putty.
Gardeners consider plum homemade one of the best stone fruit crops. The plant needs a lot of heat to form high-quality fruits. Therefore, the plum is considered a predominantly southern plant, little cultivated north of the Moscow region. Needed to grow fruit trees certain conditions. When the plum dries, what to do becomes an urgent question for the summer resident.
Acceptable Growing Conditions
In order for a plum to bear fruit, it needs neighbors - pollinating varieties. As for the choice of soil, the culture in this regard is not particularly picky - any fertile land is suitable for it.
Note! The plant loves moisture, but does not tolerate an overabundance. Therefore, it is better to plant a plum in areas with low groundwater.
The culture is relatively resistant to drought. But sometimes gardeners notice that the tree has begun to wither. In this case, the problem of how to save the plum from drying out must be solved immediately by applying effective means therapy.
Possible causes of wilting
Fruit trees wither various reasons, this moment can come at any of the phases: after hibernation, during flowering, and even at the time of fruit formation. Before proceeding with the treatment of a tree, it is necessary to establish why the plum branches (or leaves) dry.
Plant wilts after flowering
The garden woke up after winter, opened its leaves, and suddenly a problem arose. The reason why the plum blossomed and withered may lie in the invasion of pests. Some feast on the nectar of flowers, others gnaw through the bark and penetrate into the branches.
Mass destruction of trees by diseases also falls on this period. If not taken in time preventive measures(spraying, top dressing), this may be the reason why plum dries after flowering, the immunity of which is weakened by hibernation.
Important! Plums are characterized by a large growth of shoots. If it is not removed, the shoots will pull food onto themselves, preventing the main branches from entering the fruiting phase, and the tree begins to dry out in places.
Wither after winter
The reason why the plum dried up after the winter may be the harsh climate (i.e. the plant is frozen). If these are young seedlings, it is possible that varieties were selected incorrectly for planting - without taking into account the region. Even in the southern regions, sometimes the trees, not having time to wake up after the winter, begin to dry. Plants weakened by fruiting without autumn feeding do not tolerate cold well.
Pests settle in the root zone of trees in order to comfortably overwinter. With the advent of spring, they wake up and begin to feed on parts of the plant. The roots are especially actively affected during this period, causing the tree to die.
The plant has not come out of hibernation
Plum is considered a relatively winter-hardy crop, but is often damaged by severe frosts (especially high-quality varieties). Data fruit trees begin to wake up one of the first (after cherries). If by mid-April the buds do not swell, it is necessary to revise the plant.
Dry trunk of a plum tree
A dry trunk near a plum is a sign that it has suffered from frost. If the bark is “alive”, there is hope that the tree will wake up a little later. Apparently, the weather has not yet settled down on the street, and the plum is waiting for heat.
Leaves do not bloom
With the advent of spring, buds swelled on the branches, but for some reason the plum leaves do not dissolve. The reason may be in insects that have eaten eyes. Some pests remain in them to winter, and with the advent of heat they wake up and begin to actively develop.
Note. The leaves may not bloom because the plant is weakened by poor wintering. Perhaps the trees planted in the fall did not have time to take root normally before going into hibernation. And a fairly adult plum representative has simply outlived his life and is gradually dying.
tree without leaves
In gardens, there are also such situations:
- the plum had time to dissolve the foliage, and then suddenly dropped it;
- leaves appeared only on some branches, the rest are bare;
- the tree itself did not give leaves, but the growth is lushly green.
IN last case, perhaps the plant froze out in winter, but the root remained intact. In other situations, all the same pests and diseases are to blame.
There is another reason why there are no leaves on the plum. If a tree has survived a too hot summer and then severe frosts, then it is tired of dealing with drops. temperature conditions. Most likely, the plum needs a “time out”, and in the next season, having rested, it will enter the normal phase of development.
Leaves dry
In the middle of summer, you can see how the leaves on the plum are covered with a dry border. This is a sign that the plant has become ill with moniliosis (gray rot). If no action is taken, the foliage will dry out completely, but will hang on the tree, disfiguring its appearance.
Gradually, the twig affected by the disease also begins to dry out, then the second, the third, until the tree completely withers.
dried plum leaves
IN this case the reason why the plum has dried up must be sought in the conditions of agricultural technology. The infection enters the area with pests or is carried by the wind and settles where it has not been carried out. preventive treatments trees, the crown was not thinned out, the water balance was not observed.
Additional Information. The cause of the disease can also be an incorrectly chosen place for planting a plant: in a lowland, in an unventilated area, or in a place where groundwater is too high.
How to deal with problems
Having established the reason why the plum branches dry up (as well as leaves and flowers), the gardener seeks to take immediate action. Especially if the culprits are insects and diseases.
Disease control measures
| Problem | sign | Measure |
|---|---|---|
| perforated spotting | The bark, leaves and flowers are affected. It appears in the rainy spring season and progresses throughout the period; On the plant you can see brown spots framed by a dark border. If the disease is not treated, the spores penetrate the fetus, ulcerating it to the very bone. | Prevention is important - annual thinning pruning, cleaning of fallen leaves, autumn digging trunk circle; If signs of the disease are found, the affected branch is cut off, and the cut points are covered with pitch; · It will be necessary to spray with copper chloride or Bordeaux liquid. Processing is carried out 10-14 days after the start of flowering |
| Gommoz | Represents smudges on a tree in the form of thick resin Brown. They appear in those places where the plant was injured from sunburn or winter cold; · An excess of moisture and nitrogen in the soil can provoke cracks in the bark; From seemingly harmless gum, the tree can dry completely | · Careful care of fruit trees is necessary; If wounds are found, it is immediately recommended to cover them with petralatum; In large areas of damage, the bark is removed, the bare trunk is treated with horse sorrel (rubbed with fresh grass), then smeared with var |
| Rust | It appears on the leaves, covering them with red spots, rapidly increasing in size; Photosynthesis is disrupted, causing the tree to weaken and shed its leaves prematurely. Such a plant may not survive winter cold | Sick leaves should be immediately removed from the site and destroyed; Before flowering, the plum is sprayed with copper chloride, after harvesting the fruits - with Bordeaux mixture |
| Bacterial spotting | · Having found a small circle or strip on a leaf plate, it is safe to say that a bacterium has settled on the plant. Confirmation of this is a yellow, quickly drying border around the perimeter of the sheet; Fruits are also covered with dark flaky spots. After that, the plant is difficult to save, in the end it dries up | Azofoska 5% or 1% will help in the treatment of the disease blue vitriol; Sometimes antibiotics diluted in water are used; At least 3 treatments are carried out per season at weekly intervals |
| Moniliosis | Gray rot affects not only the leaves - the branches dry out very quickly. The fruits rot right on the tree and do not fall off. | Processing is carried out during the following periods: after swelling of the kidneys; at the flowering stage after the plum has blossomed. In order not to harm the bees at this time, it is recommended to use less toxic drugs: Topsin-M, Horus, Fitolavin, Skor |
| Smallpox sharka | The cause of viral infection is a colony of aphids; First, light spots appear on the sheets, which, growing, turn yellow, and the plate dries up; The fetus is also affected: it becomes small, deformed, covered with brown spots and crumbles | · Having found smallpox on the drain, nothing can be done - the plant will die anyway; But in order not to infect other stone fruits, the diseased tree will have to be uprooted and burned |
Other insects are no less dangerous for plums: Aphids with more healthy tree you can wash it off with a strong stream of water, and then treat the plant with Karbofos or Sharpei. To protect the site from colonial invasion, it is recommended to plant islands of Dalmatian chamomile, garlic or onions near fruit trees, the smell of which will scare away pests.
- spider mite, which should be controlled with biopesticides;
- the scale insect is scraped off along with the bark, then the tree is treated with Biotlin, Bankol, Aktara;
- the treatment of plums with Karbofos, Dendrobacillin, Entobacterin will help destroy the golden tail and silkworm butterflies.
When spraying trees, they also capture the soil around the trunk, as well as neighboring plants.
Important! If there is an abandoned garden plot, it is recommended to treat it with chemicals and it. This will protect yourself from the invasion of pests from the outside.
In order for spring to please with lush fruit blooms, and summer for a juicy harvest of fruits, it is necessary to provide plants with a comfortable wintering. Then the question will not arise why the branches of the plum tree dry up.
Fruit planting calendar
| Month | Measures taken |
|---|---|
| Aug. Sept | Past growing season trees need more nutrition. Introduced into the soil full complex fertilizers. At the end of September, 5-7 buckets of water are poured under each plant. This will help the plums to better endure the winter. |
| October | Tree trunks are cleaned of damage and whitewashed with lime |
| November December | The branches are freed from adhering snow - this will save them from breaking off. fruit trees annoyed by rodents eating up the basal part. Therefore, it is necessary to thoroughly trample the snow around the plants, and make a special protective harness on the lower region of the trunk. |
| January | If the plum area is lightly covered with snow, you need to worry about additional shelter for the near-stem circle to protect the roots from freezing. |
| February | The binding from the tree is removed, the snow is raked off, the trunk is covered again lime mortar. Plants prepare for temperature changes |
| March | In the middle of the month, trees are inspected, after which sanitary pruning is performed. |
| April | Drainage grooves are made through which melt water will leave (it should not stagnate near trees). The soil around the plum is dug up and nitrogen fertilizers are applied. Smoke piles located along the landing will help protect against return frosts. |
| May | Measures are taken based on the temperature outside: if May is cold, continue to conduct night smoke, followed by watering the root zone (used exclusively warm water), and preventive spraying of the crown (you can use Bordeaux liquid); in a hot month, up to 6 buckets of water are poured under each tree. Before flowering, plants are fed with a complex of mineral water and organic matter. |
| June July | The main concern comes down to watering and top dressing. Under each tree prepare 5 buckets of organic solution. Urea is diluted at the rate of 1 tbsp. for 10 l |
Common questions on the problem Such a set of measures will save you from solving the dilemma of what to do when the drain dries up. Full-fledged prevention and proper agricultural technology is already 90% of success in growing fruit trees.
On the forums, novice summer residents and experienced farmers often communicate with each other. Some share their experience, give advice and recommendations, explain why certain drugs are needed, how to use them correctly.
Others ask pressing questions about the challenges they face while gardening. The most common of them are listed below.
What to do if there are few leaves on the plum? When the cause is not in diseases and pests, it can be assumed that the plant lacks nutrition. For growth, first of all, nitrogen is needed, with which you need to feed the plum in the spring.
On a note. Why did the plum die? Noticing that the plant began to die, you need to immediately establish the cause. The main factors are described in the article. To the reasons given, we can add the decay of the roots in winter and the damage caused to the plum by water rats (they are especially hungry for young seedlings).
Noticing that the leaves of the plum have not blossomed, you should not uproot the tree, considering it dead. If the near-stem growth develops well, then the main trunk can return to life. Otherwise, you will have to select the strongest side shoot and allow it to develop into a new tree.
