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Pruning fruit trees - how to make the garden blooming and healthy? Pruning fruit trees in the spring How to properly form a pruning fruit tree

The process of pruning fruit trees has many goals, the main of which are: care, activation of growth and development processes, as well as protection from diseases. But the most important task, of course, is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop. However positive results can only be achieved when pruning is done technically correctly, with high-quality garden tools, and most importantly, in a timely manner. The article will focus on the correct pruning of fruit trees.

When to prune fruit trees

For each of the species and age of fruit trees, there is its own - the most suitable period for pruning. The ranges of the procedure can be conditionally divided into several.

• autumn-winter. Pruning is carried out immediately after the complete fall of the leaf cover and the end of the movement of tree sap. This period is also called rest time. On the one hand, it is believed that this is the most auspicious time for pruning trees. But on the other hand, it is during this period, due to the lack of movement of tree sap, that the healing of cut sites is more difficult. In addition, when pruning at low temperatures, it is possible to freeze the shoots in this way, which will lead to their damage and disruption of the fruiting function.
• spring-summer. It starts from the moment the first movement of tree sap appears - this is the so-called vegetative period, and lasts until the fruit is harvested. This is the best time for grafting and pruning fruit trees. An unsatisfactory result can be corrected before the onset of the cold season.

In addition to seasonal guidelines, before proceeding with pruning fruit trees, it is worth considering a number of equally important factors, such as:

• site location;
• wind speed;
• the presence of precipitation;
• temperature below 0°;

Fruit Tree Pruning Tools

Fundamental during the period of pruning trees are not only seasonal and weather but also the quality of the instruments. The requirements for them are quite simple, they must be as sharp as possible, clean and easy to use. What may be needed for trimming.

• Secateurs. Refers to a variety of garden scissors. In addition to the main requirement - the sharpness of the blades, the tool must be easy and convenient to use, since usually pruning one tree takes a fairly long period of time. It is important to pay attention to the action ratchet, it will depend on it with what force you have to press the handles. In addition, the blades must have a small gap, otherwise the young shoots will get stuck in them, which will cause additional work.

• garden saw. The blades should have good sharpening and be shaped narrower towards the end of the blade. The gaps between the teeth should have shallow cavities for the accumulation of sawdust material. Construction saws are not suitable for pruning fruit trees, as they can create additional damage to the trunk.
• long pruner. Differs from manual option with a long handle. This shape is great for cutting off processes that are just above human height, without the use of additional funds in the form of a stepladder or ladder. There are options with a telescopic tube, which makes it possible to adjust the height of the cut.

In the work of pruning trees, additional tools may be needed.

• Chainsaw will speed up the process of cutting massive trunks, especially for mature trees.

• Ladder or stepladder will form the crown of a fruit tree.
• Overalls, supplemented with protective gloves, will relieve unnecessary injuries during work.
• Glasses will be needed at the time of sawing, to protect the eyes from sawdust and small chips.

Technique for shaping and pruning fruit trees

From a technical point of view, there are three types of tree pruning.

• "On the kidney." This pruning method allows you to set the most correct direction of branch growth. As a rule, only young annual shoots are cut in this way with a cut over the selected bud. During the procedure, the pruner blade should be directed towards the branch.

Important: the cutting angle should be as close to 45° as possible so that the kidney is not "truncated". In addition, it is necessary to avoid an excessively sharp cut, in which case the left kidney will lack nutrients. And too long a residual process may dry out and in the future it will have to be completely cut down, which will disrupt the process of crown formation.

• "On the ring." Such pruning is done only with the aim of completely removing one or more branches. The reason may be a violation of the penetration of light into the crown or the wrong direction of the branches. IN last case shoots take some of the nutrients that can be distributed among more promising, in terms of yield, branches. If the shoot is relatively young and its thickness allows, then pruning is done with a pruner, otherwise a garden hacksaw is used.

Note: there are a number of nuances that you should not forget about when cutting a branch “on a ring”. Do not leave an excessively long process and trim flush with the bark. Pruning is considered correct along the outer edge of the ring, which is formed by the influx of bark at the junction of the shoot with the trunk.

• "On the side branch." This type of pruning is the least traumatic for fruit trees and retains most of their viable functions. Its direct purpose is to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. There is a complete pruning of incapacitated branches, due to which all the main functions are taken over by the side branches, gradually replacing the main ones.

Types of pruning fruit trees

In addition to various technological aspects of pruning, there are also types of this process that determine the further development of the fruit tree and its yield:

• Formative. All actions are aimed at designing the future crown, as a result, the necessary density and shape should be formed. The most successful time for such pruning is February, early March. As a result, during active movement juice, which begins at the end of March, the fruit tree will be as fruitful as possible. Late formative pruning will cause a delay in the development of the plant or the absence of a crop as such.

Important: properly designed skeletal (guide) branches, during the entire growth and development of the plant, will serve as a reliable frame that is resistant to any load, which will allow it to withstand even the most difficult crop.

• Regulatory. Suitable for an actively developing tree that needs minimal adjustment. In proper condition, the illumination of the crown and the density of young shoots should be maintained. Potentially successful period: February-April or August-September. In any of these periods, a fresh cut is quickly tightened and does not release tree sap.
• anti-aging the view is intended for old trees. The main goal is to restore active fruiting. Pruning time: early spring and late autumn. Such pruning is effective in stimulating the growth of new shoots and restoring the vitality of a fading tree. Even if the "adult" tree gives good harvest, he still needs a rejuvenating pruning from time to time, awakening the adnexal buds.

Seasonal pruning has a number of nuances that should be considered in order to avoid harming the fruit tree.

Pruning fruit trees in spring

• Spring is the most productive and successful season for pruning fruit trees. It is important to wait for the period of final temperature change after winter so that the last frosts pass. Pruning must be done strictly until the first buds swell. Dry weather with temperatures above 0° is ideal. Pruning of fruit trees should be carried out in the following sequence:
• Pruning begins with older trees. After all, they are the main fruit-bearing composition. And only after that you can cut young seedlings. The reason lies in the different periods of awakening of the kidneys.
• If apple trees grow on the site, you need to start with them. After all, it is this tree that is most resistant to frost, and if the temperature drops again, this tree will not suffer after pruning, unlike others. But it is better to cut pear and cherry closer to May.

• Regarding shoots, pruning starts with the least promising ones. What does it mean? Dry or damaged by frost, as well as insects that have intersections with others, these are shoots that interfere with the normal functioning of the crown.
• Large fruit branches are cut down only with the option: “on the ring”. The cut point must be covered with a special solution or wet clay - so it will drag on faster and will not harm the entire tree.

summer tree pruning

The process of pruning fruit trees is quite possible to carry out in the summer. The main purpose of such a procedure is only a slight adjustment regarding branches damaged by frost, in case they were not detected in early spring. Indeed, during the period of active flowering, it is much easier to identify flaws.

In addition to stripping incapacitated shoots, a number of activities can be carried out during this period.

• Pinching (clothespin) - the process of cutting off the upper part of the branch. The young shoot is easily cut with garden shears or secateurs.

• Pinching is an adjustment option that is performed when the buds give young shoots and it is enough to break them. The technique is quite similar to standard pruning, the only difference is that pruning occurs without the intervention of garden tools. Surprisingly, it is this option that has a beneficial effect on tightening the place of the cliff, it happens faster and less painfully.

Pruning fruit trees in autumn

• The most favorable period for carrying out the procedure for pruning fruit trees is, of course, autumn. It is thanks to her that the tree is prepared for changes in cold temperatures. The most the main objective autumn pruning is sanitization, that is, the removal of excess dry, painful and damaged shoots. Thanks to such actions, wood pests and microorganisms will not be able to move to a healthy part of the fruit tree.
• Among other things, autumn pruning trees allows you to create the maximum effective conditions for ventilation and crown lighting. And the distribution of tree sap on healthy branches will increase the yield for next year.

Note: before the onset of cold weather, all large sections must be treated with a special protective compound, this will favorably affect the speedy healing and preparation for low temperatures. Winter pruning of fruit trees is not recommended.

Fruit tree pruning schemes

Knowing all the principles and types of pruning fruit trees, it is still difficult to imagine where to start the procedure, especially for beginners in the field of gardening. A rough plan for pruning a tree can come to the aid of a non-specialist in this matter.

• First of all, it is worth paying attention to the apical shoots - by removing the thin forks of branches in the form of "crow's feet".

• Next, you should get rid of the crossing of the branches, for this it is necessary to cut the shoots directed towards the soil.
• Particular attention should be paid to the space around the trunk: cut off the branches directed towards it and the young shoots.
• The formation of the crown is done by removing thickening (growing too close) and top branches (shoots from dormant buds).

The described method is ideal for annual pruning of a well-developed tree, but the methods of forming young seedlings and old trees have a number of certain differences.

Pruning young seedlings

• From the moment a young seedling is planted in the ground until the beginning of fruiting, the main task will be to form a tree frame from skeletal branches, monitor the growth of fresh shoots and lay future fruit formations. To ensure all these points, it is necessary to ensure the growth of the crown - evenly in all directions. Therefore, one-year-old shoots and branches are pruned, thickening the crown array. Actively growing shoots are truncated by 50%, and slower ones by 25%. Thanks to such manipulations, the crown of a young seedling becomes powerful and fruitful in a few years.
• Young seedlings are pruned annually due to their rapid growth. Most successful period late autumn is considered for their pruning. After leaf fall, all damaged and extra shoots are removed. This not only allows you to prepare the tree for winter, but also to achieve high-quality air exchange and crown lighting.

Pruning fruit trees video

Pruning mature fruit trees

• Forming the crown of new plantations is quite easy, the main thing is to follow all the rules. But with regard to old fruit trees, then certain steps should be followed. This is due to the fact that the entire crop on such trees, as a rule, is located at the very top of the crown, the fruits are relatively small size and appear irregularly.
• The painstaking process of revitalizing old fruit trees has been going on for several years, and consists of the following activities.
• In the first year, the crown is cut several levels down and only with south side tree. All work should be carried out with the aim of transferring the main branches to the side branch.
• In the next season, it is mandatory to trim the "tops" formed during the previous procedure. Otherwise, they will absorb the nutrients that the living part of the tree needs. The removal process is performed "on the ring", while the season does not affect the quality of the procedure.

• In subsequent years, the remaining part of the crown is pruned, and then the "wolves" are cleared.
• The most favorable period for pruning old trees is winter time. This is due to the fact that during this period, fresh sections do not rot and pests cannot start in them.

There are certain nuances, observing which you can carry out high-quality pruning of fruit trees, even if a person is doing it for the first time.

• When carrying out the most rigid pruning (up to 35% of the length of the entire branch), it is imperative to observe a frequency of a year, or even two. Do not forget that the option of deep pruning is very traumatic for the plant, as a result of which a significant part of it may die.
• If you need to get the most out of the fruit tree rapid growth, during the pruning period, it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.
• Do not touch the frozen branches of a fruit tree in winter. It is still recommended to wait until spring - then the picture of the dead areas will be more complete and they can be carefully removed.
• When pruning, it is important to observe the subordination of branches. This means that the number of main and secondary branches must be uniform, otherwise you may end up with an oversaturated branch or an overly thinned crown.
• When cutting branches around the main trunk, you should not leave adjoining branches close to it, i.e. at an acute angle.
• It is important to remember that horizontal branches differ in the maximum level of fruiting. This should be taken into account when pruning fruit trees, to regulate the amount of the crop.

• Sections of large diameter must be treated with a special composition: garden pitch or heteroauxin - this will accelerate the healing of the plant. But the use of oil paint as a coating of sections is not recommended.
• Young trees should be pruned as little as possible - only for the purpose of crown formation. Excessive changes can lead to a deterioration in fruit-bearing properties.

The painstaking work that is associated with pruning fruit trees in the garden pays off over time worthy harvest fruits. The most important thing is to adhere to generally accepted recommendations, because a seemingly simple process, in fact, requires the performer not only to comply with the technology, but also to be careful.

You need to form a crown for all fruit trees in the garden. This results in increased productivity. But you need to have knowledge of how to properly cut branches so as not to harm the tree. We will tell in the article about the formation of the crown of fruit trees, we will give instructions and diagrams for beginners.

The essence of the procedure for forming branches on trees

Crown formation is important for the first seven years of life. Thanks to this procedure, the annual growth is improved and the yield is increased. The formation of the crown occurs by trimming the branches of a young tree. The effect is increased if at the same time produce proper care: Timely control pests and take care of the soil. For the rapid growth of the tree, the soil is regularly watered, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied.

Formation of the crown of stone fruits within four years after planting

Advantages of crown formation:

1. Good growth rate.
2. Fertility improvement.
3. Improving the quality of the crop.
4. Tree rejuvenation.
5. Improved crown lighting.
6. Prevention of diseases and death of a tree by removing dry and diseased branches.

Thanks to pruning, the branches become more powerful and withstand a greater load, do not break under the weight of the fruit, and the trunk thickens. The tree bears fruit and retains its productivity for a long period, as it is regularly rejuvenated.

Before pruning, consider the purpose of the procedure and the type of tree.

Together with pruning branches, bending, twisting and tying branches are used to form the crown. There are also disadvantages to the procedure. You have to start pruning experienced gardeners, because if the technology is not followed, you can harm the tree, namely:

• reduce winter hardiness;
• reduce growth at the end of the growing season;
• increase crown thickening. Read also the article: → "".

There are four types of pruning, each of which is aimed at fulfilling a specific purpose. There are shaping, rejuvenating, sanitary pruning, pruning to reduce the growth and volume of the crown. We give in the table the goals and features of each type of pruning.

View	Goals	Dates
Formative	Creating an illuminated and powerful crown that is easy to care for. Giving decoration.	First 3-4 years.
Anti-aging	Restoration of the crown of old trees, regeneration of branches and stimulation of bud formation.	After 2-3 years of growth every 3-4 years.
Pruning to reduce height	Increase lighting and productivity.	First 2-4 years.
Sanitary	Carried out for thickened crowns, which long time were left without care.	Conducted year-round as needed.

Pruning to reduce the height is used when industrial cultivation trees when forming stunted tree gardens. The process is quite labor intensive. With the observance of technology, it is possible to create a strong skeleton of a tree with correctly located main branches.

🎧 How to prune and graft fruit trees in the garden (2 parts)?

Andrey Tumanov, an expert summer resident, says: “How to properly cut and plant fruit trees in the garden.” For 20 years, the author has hosted a number of TV programs dedicated to amateur gardening and horticulture - "Fazenda", "Bed", "Our Garden", "Country Hour", "Field Work".

Tree crown formation methods

There are such forms of the crown:

1. Cup-shaped tiered-sparse. Suitable for trees with stems from 160 to 180 cm. These are stone fruits and some varieties of pears and apple trees.
2. Fusiform. Suitable for trees with stems from 80 to 100 cm. These are trees with a spreading crown (apple and pear).
3. Longline. Suitable for tiered trees.
4. Sparse-tiered. Suitable for apple, pear, cherry, plum and apricot trees.
5. Tierless. Suitable for cherries and apricots.
6. Bushy. Suitable for stone fruit trees. They begin to form a bush from the first year of life, cutting off the top.
7. Fan. Suitable for undersized apple trees. The branches of a short trunk grow upwards, therefore, in early summer, young shoots are tied up to protect exposed areas of the crown. Before planting, be sure to look at the type of crown, and then they select the shape.

Shorten new shoots usually in the spring.

They form a crown during the dormant period, but after the end of severe frosts. The ideal option considered the beginning of April. In the North-West regions, the dates may shift until mid-June, when flowering begins. It is advisable to prune before the buds swell or after the leaves fall in the fall. In summer, dry and damaged branches, as well as the tops of young shoots, are removed.

1. In winter, branches are cut at a temperature not lower than -8 ° C, otherwise the wounds will not heal.
2. Seedlings planted in autumn, like stone fruit trees, are pruned before the juice begins to flow.
3. Branches damaged by frost are pruned after bud break in the spring.

Crown formation technology

The technology depends on the type of crown. There are pyramidal, sprawling and spherical.

• For pyramidal crowns first, branches are cut inside to expand the circumference of the crown. The shoots are shortened to the outer bud (the upper bud is left on the outside of the crown).
• For sprawling types, the lower branches that are inclined towards the ground are cut out. When the tree is tilted to one side, the branches are cut more in the direction of the slope.

Council number 1. If a young tree leans, it is leveled in early spring, while the ground is damp. To do this, pull the stem to the stake.

When a tree freezes, cut the frozen part to a healthy area. The crown is formed from a healthy shoot. The scheme for the formation of the most popular forms of crowns is given in the table.

crown shape	Formation features
sparse-tiered	The center conductor is cut at a height of 80 cm from lower tier branches. Leave at least 8 buds. In the 4th year, three strong branches evenly spaced against each other are left, the rest are removed. Subsequent tiers are formed within two years. Each tier consists of two branches. When the trunk reaches a height of 4.5 m, cut off the center conductor to stop growth. The crown is formed in the third year of growth.
bushy	Crown formation is already being done for annual seedlings. Leave 6 branches that are 15 cm apart, the rest of the shoots are cut out. As the tree grows, the lower shoots are left longer than the upper ones (they are shortened annually by 1/2 length). The conductor above the top branch, which grows upwards, is cut off.
untiered	Leave up to 6 branches, which are located 15-40 cm apart. For sprawling crowns, the conductor is made 20 cm higher than the branches, for pyramidal ones - 30 cm higher.

For thickened varieties, shoots are first removed that grow inward towards the crown, intersect and rub.

Cutting technique:

1. When removing thick branches, the saw simultaneously cuts in a circle so that there are no bark burrs.
2. Branches less than 1 cm in diameter are removed with a pruner, a spine up to 2 mm is left above the kidney.
3. The cut points of branches thicker than 2 mm are treated with garden pitch. A product containing pine resin is best suited. Apply with a layer of more than 3.5 mm. Putty is needed to accelerate wound healing and prevent infection, protection from drying out and moisture ingress.
4. When cutting an annual shoot, make an oblique cut from the opposite side of the kidney. The spike is not left.
5. When thinning, the branches are cut into a ring. To putty cuts, latex and natural oil paints are used.

Features of work depending on the age of the tree

Form a crown for young seedlings for 2-3 years. It was during that period that skeletal branches were cut out, on which a smaller number of fruits were formed. In the first years, only diseased and broken branches are removed, as well as shoots that thicken the crown. With excessive pruning, tops appear.

Branches are cut annually, while large branches are shortened by a maximum of 10 cm. Young shoots are not cut out. Young trees should be pruned with care. The branches are fragile, with strong pruning, growth and an increase in the volume of the crown slow down, and the timing of the tree's entry into fruiting is delayed.

Features of pruning old trees:

1. When rejuvenated, the branches are cut to 1 m.
2. Dry branches are removed in a timely manner. They are not broken off, but neatly cut down.
3. The crown is formed from new shoots. They are pruned for better branching. To work in the garden, stock up on tools.

Garden pruning tools

You will need the following tools: a knife, a pruner, a lopper, a file, a chainsaw and a metal brush. To work at height, you can not do without a stepladder. For putty wounds garden pitch or paint.

Council number 2. To prevent injury to the tree, support garden tools clean. After work, clean it and lubricate it, this will prevent rust.

Use garden tools for their intended purpose. Read also the article: → "". Consider the use of each tool.

• Branches up to 2 cm thick are removed with a secateurs. It looks like scissors, only the blades are curved. There are several types of tools: for all types of cuts (has parallel blades); for removing shoots (one-sided cutting secateurs).
• The pruner is a reinforced pruner model. This is a long handled instrument. It is designed for cutting branches from 2 to 5 cm in diameter.
• A saw is used to cut thick branches. Blade length 30-35 cm.
• At large volume works use a chainsaw. It is used to rejuvenate old trees and remove dry branches.
• Green shoots are removed with a garden knife. They clean the places of cuts and cuts before processing.
• When working in the garden at a height, they use a ladder; it is undesirable to climb on the trunk so as not to damage the bark. Stairs are from two to eight meters.

For cleaning branches garden plot use a wood chipper. There are electric and petrol shredders.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Question number 1. When is the crown rejuvenated?

Crown rejuvenation is needed for two-year and three-year-old seedlings or when a decrease in yield is noted. At the same time, young shoots are preserved, and perennial ones are shortened. If the fruit tree is not rejuvenated in time, then the growth of the top will gradually stop. You can notice a decrease in growth by the annual growth of young shoots. With a decrease in growth by 20 cm, rejuvenating pruning is immediately performed.

Question number 2. What is the technology of sanitary pruning?

During sanitization, dry, broken and diseased branches are removed. After that, they proceed to thinning the branches in the lower part of the crown, which leaned towards the ground. Then the crown is rejuvenated.

Question number 3. What is a stem?

The trunk is called the part of the main trunk, which is located between the root zone and the first branch. Depending on the height of the stem, three types of trees are distinguished: low-stem, medium-stem and high-stem. More often, gardeners prefer low-stem.

Question number 4. What is a center conductor?

This is the part of the trunk from the bottom branch to the top of the tree.

Question number 5. Why do tops appear and what to do with them?

Tops appear on young and old fruit trees. The reasons are different. Tops in young trees grow near the places where large branches are cut. They can not be removed, but the tops that grow inside the crown must be cut out, because they thicken the crown. In old trees, tops appear when the branches are damaged, the top growth stops and around aging shoots. Their appearance indicates the need for rejuvenation.

Common mistakes gardeners make

Suggest errors:

1. Cut branches for rejuvenation no more than once every 3-4 years.
2. Below the ring, the shoots are not cut off, otherwise the cut will overgrow for a long time.
3. When using a secateurs, the cutting part is directed towards the branch, and not towards the part that is being cut.
4. Thick branches are first shortened and then cut into a ring, otherwise the trunk is injured.
5. It is important to take into account the characteristics of the growth of the tree. The central shoot gives a large annual increase, but the side branches grow more slowly. If you give side branches horizontal position(for example, bend or tie up), then growth will stop, and fruits will begin to be laid. Branches should branch out from the trunk at an angle of 45°.

The formation and pruning of fruit trees are the most important agricultural activities that must be regularly performed in every orchard. This task is comparable to the work of a sculptor, when everything is removed to get the perfect shape. Only a sculptor works with a soulless stone that does not hurt. And for correct pruning fruit and other trees, you should try not to harm the plants, make sure that green spaces suffer as little as possible.

Pruning and shaping the crown of fruit trees is not only cutting out extra branches or curbing the growth of a plant. This is a gradual, phased creation of the desired crown shape. In this case, not only the removal of unnecessary branches is used, but also other methods, for example, bending branches and grafting.

The optimal time for the main work on pruning fruit trees in the garden is early spring, before the leaves bloom. In extreme cases, you can cut the trees later - during bud break.

Basically, the removal of decorative crowns requires a strictly defined position of the branches in space, which is achieved by bending them. The intensity of growth and fruiting depends on the slope of the branches. As a rule, low-growing seedlings on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks are used for this.

Seed rootstocks should not be used: it will be difficult to form such fruit trees, as they are characterized by strong growth, and in the future it will take a lot of effort to keep the crown within the given shape.

In most cases, trees are grown as tapeworms or in group landings, but it is also possible to create hedges. This article discusses the basic principles of creating decorative forms fruit trees by pruning and decorative shaping options in the orchard.

The principle of pruning fruit trees in the garden to obtain a longline crown

The simplest and most common form of the crown when pruning fruit trees is sparse-tiered.

Plants formed in this way, as a rule, have a large crown volume, which means that this is the optimal form for tall trees. In this case, large branches on the trunk are located either close together or singly. In total, their number should not exceed 5-7 pieces.

When forming a sparse-tiered crown of fruit trees, they simply remove all unnecessary branches that thicken the space, as well as branches that form sharp forks. Those branches that remain should diverge evenly in all directions, not obscure each other and not cross.

How to properly prune fruit trees to form such a crown?

Forming begin annual seedling. He is cut off. To cut the seedling at the right height, decide where you would like to see the lowest branches of the tree. Now back up 20-25 cm and cut.

The next year, before properly pruning fruit trees in the spring, select the topmost, vertical shoot and shorten it.

Of the rest, leave only 2-3 shoots directed to different sides. Well, if they are at some distance from each other. Shorten them by about 1/3. The remaining shoots must be cut out completely.

A small fold of bark can be seen at the base of the shoots. The cut should fall exactly on this fold (on the ring). This will ensure that the wound heals quickly. You can not cut the shoots if their length is not more than 15-20 cm.

The following year, pruning of fruit trees in the spring is carried out in the same way. When choosing new thick shoots for the crown skeleton, proceed from the fact that the distance between the tiers of branches should be about 80 cm, and from the tier to separately located branches - at least 50 cm.

When right amount branches will be formed, the stem continuation shoot (central conductor) is cut above the upper skeletal branch. In the future, the principle of pruning fruit trees is reduced to the removal of vertically growing strong shoots, crossing and rubbing, as well as damaged branches (sanitary pruning).

This video demonstrates the pruning of fruit trees to form a sparse-tiered crown:

How to properly prune fruit trees in the form of a spindle (with photo)

Another, relatively simple crown in the formation of fruit trees is a slender spindle (Grusbek).

The diameter of such crowns is relatively small - 1-1.5 m. As a rule, such a crown is formed on a low trunk - 30-40 cm, and is ideal for trees on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks.

Pruning during the formation of such a crown of fruit trees is carried out in approximately the same way as in the first case. Only now you need to remove all shoots that are too short and too long, as well as shoots growing vertically, that is, with an acute angle of departure.

The center conductor is shortened to cause active branching. In such a crown, 20-30 branches are left, depending on the height of the tree.

In the future, for the correct pruning of fruit trees in the spring, it is necessary to maintain the length of the branches no more than 1 m. To do this, they are cut over the side branches.

See a photo of pruning fruit trees in the form of a spindle:

Speaking about the formation of rounded crowns of fruit trees, one cannot but recall the standard forms. With trees, they are much easier to get than with shrubs. For woody plants this form is close to natural, so it will not be difficult to grow such an apple or pear tree.

You just need to grow a tree to the desired height and cut it where you would like to see the first branches. Of course, it must be taken into account that pruning below 1 m will not give the desired effect, and it is not advisable to plant a stem for a fruit tree above 2 m. Imagine: a two-meter stem, and the crown itself is -1.5 m, and you still have to harvest!

To prune fruit trees correctly, as experienced gardeners advise, you need to decide on the height. After that, along the entire height of the trunk, all branches and buds must be carefully removed, and then (in the first year) all the shoots formed in the upper part should be pinched to form a crown.

Particular attention should be paid to strong, upward-growing shoots - tops. They will appear all the time, and if they are missed, the crown will turn out to be high and uneven.

Another important secret pruning fruit trees, which beginners need to know about, is the need to ensure that the crown does not thicken. That is, do not regret, but immediately cut into the ring too weak, crossed and growing shoots inside the crown.

It is better to lose a year for shaping than to suffer later, cutting out thick branches. Moreover, all this will affect the decorativeness of the tree and, of course, the harvest.

Here you can watch a video on how to prune fruit trees in the spring on a trunk:

Decorative pruning of fruit trees in the form of a cordon for beginners (with video)

More complex in shaping, but also more exotic and decorative - crowns of small volume or flat (cordon).

We can safely say that, having understood the principle of cordon formation, it will be easy to master any other classical form. Ultimately, you need to get a trunk without branches, evenly covered with overgrown branches.

According to the rules for pruning fruit trees, an annual seedling begins to form. It is important that the kidneys awaken along the entire height of the trunk. To stimulate the awakening of the kidneys in the spring, the seedling is shortened at a height of about 70 cm - in varieties with high budding; or 40-50 cm - in varieties with weak awakening.

If this is not done, the lower part of the trunk will be bare. However, too strong decorative pruning of fruit trees is harmful, as strong shoots are formed that are of little use for further formation. It is better to cut some strong vertical shoots into a ring altogether or leave small stumps in case there are few shoots.

The rest of the shoots are pinched over the 6-8th leaf. It must be remembered that the upper shoots grow stronger than the lower ones. And so that the lower shoots do not weaken, they are left slightly longer than the upper ones. This procedure is repeated throughout the summer.

In the future, every spring, in order to prune fruit trees in the way that proper agricultural technology suggests, the central conductor is again shortened and all of the above methods are repeated.

The final height of the tree depends on the variety and your desire, of course, within reason: it is not very convenient to pinch the shoots and harvest at a height of more than 3 meters.

This video for beginners shows the pruning of fruit trees in the form of a cordon:

Spring formative pruning of fruit trees with palmette crown

There are many options when creating palmettes. These days, the requirements for shaping palmettes are, of course, simpler than before. Yes, there have been variations on this theme for a long time. So the choice is yours.

Spring pruning of fruit trees in the form of a palmette may consist of two skeletal branches located in one tier. Can be candelabra - from four or more branches. The branches can be arranged in 2 tiers, as in Verrier's palmettes. And a freer option is also possible, for example, Montreuil palmette. A distinctive feature of palmettes is the location of all branches in the same plane.

The easiest to form is a simple U-shaped palmette. Everything happens similarly to the withdrawal of a two-shouldered cordon. Only skeletal branches are first fixed horizontally on a stretched wire, and then, at a distance of 15 cm from the trunk, they are directed upwards and fixed on vertical supports. Plants in the hedge are placed at intervals of 70-80 cm.

A more complex formative pruning of fruit trees is the double U-shaped palmette. In this variant, each skeletal branch bifurcates again. Before making such pruning of fruit trees, it is important to set the frame for all planned branches in advance.

Palmette Verrier provides for the presence of a second tier or central conductor. So, after the first pruning of an annual seedling, you need to leave not 2, but 3 shoots - the top one will become a continuation of the trunk. If a second tier is planned, then the lower branches are fixed horizontally for 70-80 cm in both directions and only then directed upwards. The distance between the tiers is 40 cm.

Candelabra palmettes are one of the more complex options.

Here you may need not only the art of shaping, but also the ability to instill. Formation begins with the removal of a horizontal two-shouldered cordon: after reaching a certain length, the branches are bent upwards.

On the branches themselves form vertical shoots. It is important that everything is symmetrical, therefore, in the absence of shoots in right places need to be vaccinated.

A simpler option is Montreuil palmettes.

In this case, vertical shoots on horizontal branches are chosen arbitrarily.

When forming palmettes, it must be taken into account that the growth of branches will be weaker than when forming cordons. Therefore, more vigorous varieties are chosen for palmettes, and the length of last year's growths is left within 30-40 cm, otherwise the arrangement of the overgrown branches will not be uniform.

It is very important to monitor the uniform growth of all branches. And if the branches are weak, it is better to postpone the next stage of formation for a year.

How to form a hedge from fruit trees

Cordons are used not only in single plantings, but also to create hedges. In this case, the seedlings are placed at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.

You can also withdraw a horizontal cordon. In this case, the trunk of an annual seedling is tied to a stretched rope. These plants are very slow growing. Here, more careful shaping is also required - strong shoots will constantly form at the bend.

And to stimulate growth, the top of the trunk should always be pointing up. As an option for a fence, the trunk can not be directed horizontally, but fixed at an angle of 30-60 °.

There are two-arm cordons. For their formation, the trunk is shortened at a height of 30 cm. From the regrown shoots, the two most suitable ones are selected and fixed on supports with a deviation from the vertical position by 30-45 °. Further formation occurs according to the already considered scheme.

Fruit trees are ideal for creating a trellis hedge.

Annual seedlings are best planted in the spring at a distance of 1.5-2 m. The main task in the first year is the survival of all plants. They should be well rooted. Strong growth is a sign that the plants have taken root normally. At the end of the season, wooden supports are installed or wire is pulled, to which branches will be attached in the future to give them the desired shape and direction.

The lower tier of branches can be at different levels, but not too close to the ground, otherwise the branches will swell and be damaged when caring for the trees. The following spring, the seedling is pruned just above the level set for the first tier.

Three shoots are left during the summer: the topmost and strongest becomes the central conductor, and the two below are fixed on supports or wire in a given direction. A year later, in the spring, all unnecessary shoots are removed, and the central conductor is shortened just above the next tier, the formation takes place according to the already considered scheme.

When the bent branches of neighboring trees close, they are connected together, and the ends are shortened. Gradually they grow together, which provides greater strength of the hedge. And so it continues until the tree grows to the specified size. After that, the central conductor is transferred to a weak branch or bent.

Every year during the summer, all tops - strong shoots that form on bent branches - break out or pinch when they reach a length of 5-10 cm. When the trees take on the form you originally intended, all supports can be removed.

Pruning and shaping the crown of fruit trees scares inexperienced gardeners. But if you don't break established rules, these important gardening procedures will not seem too complicated. At the beginning of the life of fruit trees, it is simply necessary to give them the desired shape. In addition to acquiring aesthetic appearance plants crown formation with the help of pruning stimulates the rapid growth of branches growing almost horizontally. In the future, they will become crown tiers. Thanks to the right pruning action experienced gardeners quickly achieve the desired shape of garden trees. After the formation of a skeleton consisting of thick skeletal branches, it is important to maintain a balance between a constant growth of shoots and a good level of fruiting.

Pruning and shaping the crown of fruit trees

The systematic formation of trees using pruning should begin 2 to 4 years after they are planted.

fruit tree pruning technique

To stimulate growth, the selected shoot is shortened. Cutting off its excess part is carried out over a healthy growth bud. It is necessary to monitor the accuracy of this procedure. The correct cut is made cleanly, evenly and close to the kidney. If it is too close to the kidney, it may be damaged and will not grow. Due to the cut made far from the kidney, the remaining stump (thorn) can become a source of disease.

When pruning small branches of a tree, we start the cut at the level with the base of the kidney, but on the opposite side from it. Next, we perform it up the oblique. We finish the cut directly above the kidney. When removing unnecessary growths, the cut is made flush with the bark. During this action, we try not to form a spine.

Sometimes when pruning, there is a need to stimulate the growth of dormant buds. To do this, we make an incision over the kidney on the bark with a knife. This procedure is carried out during the formation different types undersized trees. For tall plants in a voluminous crown, cuts are not used.

We delete a large branch only in a certain sequence. We saw off it 15 - 20 cm from the trunk. And we start sawing off from below. After the propylene branch is ¼ of its diameter, we continue to cut it, but already from above, trying to get on the cut made at the bottom so that the cut is as even as possible. This is necessary so that when sawing off the branch under its own weight does not break off and does not split along the wood fibers.

When cutting shoots - one-year-olds, we perform an oblique cut directly above the kidney. At the same time, we try not to form a hemp (thorn) protruding above it. When the branches are removed, a stump (thorn) may remain above the branches, up to 2 cm long.

Specialists also distinguish a special pruning produced in the summer. It is called tweezing (pinching). This procedure involves the removal of the tops of young shoots. We perform it with nails, but if you need to remove part of the shoot, use a pruner. This procedure is quite laborious, but it favors the fact that the tree begins to rationally consume nutrients and moisture. The response of a plant to pinching is determined by the moment of pinching. With active growth observed in June, tweezing carried out over the 5th - 6th leaf slows down the development of shoots. After this procedure, new shoots sprout from the axillary buds, and there is an increase in the growth rate of weak shoots located next to the pinched branches. It is most rational to carry out tweezing with insufficient growth of shoots. This procedure will improve the development of the kidneys and stimulate the ripening of shoots for cold weather.

Wounds on branches, especially if their thickness is more than 2 cm, are thickly lubricated with garden pitch. In its absence, we replace it with paint produced on the basis of drying oil.

Starting work on pruning and shaping the crown, each summer resident should at least understand a little the terminology for the different organs of the tree. So experts distinguish:

• Fruit twigs (fruits)- shortened lateral branches with flower buds. There are too many of them on mature trees, so some of them need to be cut.
• Conductor- growth that determines the direction of growth of the branch. Typically, it is allowed to grow to the desired length and then trimmed to right size.
• Lateral growth- an escape coming from a skeletal branch. From them, new branches are formed or removed altogether. When they are cut out, fruits can form in the vacant place.
• Tops- shoots sprouting from dormant buds on old branches. They almost always grow vertically. They have few kidneys. Spinning tops are distinguished by the presence of large leaves. They can reach up to 2 m, so they take away nutrients and moisture from the tree, thicken the crown, but do not produce fruits.

The summer resident should be aware that some varieties of garden trees form fruits only on fruit trees, while others bear fruit at the ends of annual growths and on fruit twigs, so crown pruning should be taken very seriously so as not to reduce your yield. Many inexperienced summer residents do not know at all where to start pruning. The sequence of such actions directly depends on the type of tree and its condition.

We cut off all plants planted in the previous autumn before the onset of sap flow. Plants severely damaged by cold weather are cut last. Only in this way can one correctly determine the entire soreness of their condition. Pruning of stone fruits is carried out before bud break. Almost all pome tree species tolerate pruning much better even after the start of sap flow.

The intensity of pruning directly depends on the age of the plant. Young trees require a completely different approach than mature trees. In an aging plant, intensive drying of branches and the development of unproductive tops are noted. At the same time, he has a decrease in the level of fruiting. Such plants are practically useless without regular pruning. It is carried out in order to rejuvenate them and stimulate fruiting.

The formation of the crown throughout the life of the tree is dictated by the constant change of two processes called self-thickening and self-thinning. In young plants, the rapid growth of the crown ends with its thickening. The summer resident must necessarily produce the formation of the crown in the form he wants. During the life of a tree, old fruit twigs dry out on it. Because of this, the crown becomes less and less over time, and it thins from the center to the edges. In the future, the process of active dying off of the branches starts. And it starts from their ends. This process is accompanied by active growth of tops. A significant number of them again leads to thickening of the crown and loss of productivity. Without regular pruning, the branches of an aging plant are often replaced by branches grown from spinning tops that do not produce fruit.

How to prune fruit trees

In gardening, different methods of pruning are used:

• Shortening (cutting). It consists in the partial removal of the upper part of tree branches, shoots and fruits. Pruning is of three types: weak - up to 1/4, medium - up to 1/2, strong - up to 2/3 of the shoot. Removal of growth for the last 2-3 years refers to easy rejuvenation. When pruning 4 - 6 year old wood we are talking about moderate, and when cutting large skeletal branches - about strong rejuvenation. Pruning of fruit twigs (ploduh) is a detailed pruning. This procedure always activates the growth of shoots and provokes the development of the remaining buds. Thanks to her, all the branches thicken. This procedure it is recommended to carry out moderately and not constantly, because because of this, the volume of branches may decrease, and the tree itself will quickly weaken.
• Thinning (cutting) branches and shoots completely (per ring). IN this case the cut is directed parallel to the influx located at the base of the branch. The procedure prevents thickening of the crown, improves the penetration of light and air, and leads to the activation of the formation of fruit twigs and buds. A stump left near the influx prevents the cut from overgrowing. It is unacceptable to remove shoots or branches below the so-called annular influx, since this significantly increases the wound surface. Very thick branches are first shortened, and then cut down. Cuts made with a hacksaw are processed with a knife so that their surface is as even as possible.

The above pruning methods favor the proper distribution of nutrients and moisture. Due to the removal of unnecessary mass of wood, they are redirected to healthy and necessary parts of the plant. Active growth of shoots, provoked by pruning, favors the development of branches that conduct water, minerals and organic matter well, which leads to increased yields.

Pruning fruit trees

Branches are pruned in different time of the year. It is determined by the type, shape and type of tree. Radical pruning favors active growth of shoots. Significantly shortened growth gives powerful and healthy shoots with foliage, which then become non-fruiting skeletal branches. When creating the skeleton of a fruit tree, we use radical pruning. To obtain a significant number of flower buds that give fruit, it is not suitable. To save high level fruiting as necessary, use light pruning.

When forming the crown of a heavily neglected tree, we stretch it for 2-3 years. This offsets the shock of too drastic measures. Always cut out dry, diseased, frozen and broken branches first. Then we remove the shoots that cross or rub against each other.

All manipulations on pruning and crown formation are carried out only in the terms that are used for certain types of trees in a particular region of the country. So in the southern regions, where spring comes much faster, pruning of apple trees, pears, plums, apricots, cherry plums, peaches, sweet cherries and cherries is carried out in January - February. IN middle lane we begin all procedures with crown pruning in late March - early April. Many summer residents believe that cutting branches is possible only in the cold season. In fact, mature trees are allowed to be cut even during flowering.

In the north-west of our country, we cut trees in the summer and winter - spring. The main pruning is carried out during the dormant period of the plant, when there is no active sap flow in it. We proceed to it after the cessation of frost and before the onset of vegetation. In more northern latitudes, the trimming period shifts closer to summer (March - June). The formation of the crown consists not only in pruning branches and shoots, but also in pinching the buds and breaking out the tops. So in June, when there is an active growth of trees, we pinch the shoots from cordons, fan and trellis forms of trees. In July, we continue pinching and break out the top shoots.

Proper pruning allows you to cultivate trees of the right size with a powerful trunk (do not forget about their obligatory whitewashing) and skeletal branches. She promotes extended period productivity of an adult plant, timely onset of the fruiting phase of young plants.

Incorrect pruning often ends in thickening of the crown or a delay in the fruiting phase. In the northern regions of the country, poor-quality pruning often leads to a decrease in winter hardiness. When carrying out such manipulations, we take into account the characteristics of tree species and their varieties.

Formation of the crown of fruit trees

Since fruit trees go through various stages in their life, their life cycle is divided into periods, in the name of which the first word indicates the dominant process. So most often there are such periods of the life cycle:

1. Growth

The period, which is characterized by intensive development of the crown and roots. At this time, plants need to form a crown. For 4 - 5 years, the skeleton of the tree is laid. Pruning used to form the desired crown shape is reduced to the necessary minimum.

2. Growth and fruiting

This period is one of the stages of plant life, manifested by active branching and the laying of fruit wood. It lasts 3 - 5 years. At this time, we continue to form the crown, regularly thin it out, removing thickening and competitive shoots.

3. Fruiting and growth

The time at which the growth of branches weakens, and the crown acquires maximum volume. Skeletal branches are becoming more and more bare every year due to the death of fruitful branches located at the base. At this time, we complete the formation of the crown, adjust the size of the plant, remove diseased, broken and thickening branches and shoots. We carry out light rejuvenation of trees by cutting annual shoots up to 20 cm.

4. Fruiting

The period marked by the end of the growth of skeletal branches. The dying off of wood prevails over its growth. During this period, plants are overloaded with aging wood. To rejuvenate the trees, once every 3-4 years we prune skeletal branches on wood that is 4-6 years old (moderate rejuvenation). At the end of this period, we cut branches on wood older than 6 years (strong rejuvenation).

5. Decaying fruiting, shrinkage and growth

At this time, semi-skeletal and skeletal branches dry out and die. The crown is shrinking in size, and tops are actively developing in its empty areas. At the beginning of this period, we regularly carry out light and moderate anti-aging pruning. At the onset of the final stage of the life of a tree, characterized by massive drying of the upper part of the branches and the active growth of tops, we carry out a strong rejuvenating pruning. We leave the largest tops to replace the drying skeletal branches. We break out the rest of the top shoots.

For each tree species and its variety, all stages of life differ in different durations. In each of the above periods, pruning has various purposes. That is why, when performing it, it is necessary to take into account the age, breed, variety of the fruit tree.

Tools for pruning fruit trees

All pruning and crown shaping operations are carried out different tools. They are meticulously crafted. The cutting surface should be as sharp as possible. Thanks to this, torn edges on the branches will not appear. For trimming you need:

• hacksaw;
• delimber;
• secateurs with a thrust plate;
• secateurs with elongated handles;
• secateurs with two curved cutting blades.

Secateurs are indispensable for trimming tree branches up to 1.5 cm thick. We cut branches up to 4 cm with a lopper or a hacksaw. We use a hacksaw to cut branches of impressive thickness.

All about pruning and grafting trees and shrubs Gorbunov Viktor Vladimirovich

Methods for forming the crown of fruit trees

Formation of rounded and flat crowns

In order to prevent early thickening of the crown, first of all, no more main branches should be laid than is predetermined by the crown formation system.

When pruning trees with a high shoot-forming capacity, avoid shortening the branches. The main type of pruning in this case is cutting the entire branches (thinning). When forming crowns in trees characterized by pyramidal growth, cuts should be made above the outer buds or side branches oriented towards the periphery of the crown.

And even better, first make a cut on the inner bud (twig), and next year - on the outer branch, located below the place of the cut made last year. The first, more or less large branches on the main branches should not be located closer than 50-60 cm from their bases.

Each major branch should have its own development sector. All its branches that go beyond this sector should be cut off for transfer to a branch growing in the right direction (in its sector). In places where there is no space for the growth of new branches, it is necessary to break out the shoots. If this has not been done, it is necessary to cut thickening branches into a ring or pruning into a weak branch.

Formation of a sparse-tiered crown

The sparse-tiered crown finds the most wide application in all areas of fruit growing. It is formed from 5-7 branches of the first order and approximately the same number of branches of the second order.

In the lower part of the crown, two adjacent or adjacent branches are placed, and the third is placed at a distance of 15-30 cm from them; a tier of three adjacent branches is also allowed. Subsequent branches are placed singly around the trunk, if there are five branches in total, or a second tier of two branches is created and 1-2 more branches are placed singly.

In the south and in the middle lane, the distance between tiers is set for varieties with a wide crown of 60-80 cm, and for vigorous ones with a raised crown - 80-100 cm. In more severe natural conditions these intervals are reduced to 50-60 cm.

Branches of the second order are laid only on the three lower branches, no more than two on each.

In the spring of the first year, the one-year-old is cut to a height of up to 70 cm; in summer, shoots below 40 cm are cut. In the spring of the second year, branches that are not used are cut into a ring to form a crown. The skeletal branches are shortened annually at the same level, while removing 1/3-1/5 of the annual growth, and the central conductor is 25 cm above the top of the side branches.

Improved vase crown

Such a crown is formed from 3-4 main branches with a distance between them of up to 20 cm. The angle of departure of the main branches should be within 60 °, and the angle of divergence between the main branches should be 90 °.

In the event that the seedling has 4-5 main branches, then in the first year two branches located opposite are selected and cut short at the same level. In the second year, one or two more main branches are selected from the branches grown on the central conductor, and the conductor is cut out.

Schemes of rounded crowns: a - sparse-tiered; b - improved vase; c - contour of a correctly formed branch (top view)

In the first two years, when carrying out formative pruning, it is necessary to correct the angles of departure and divergence of branches using deformation.

Branches of the second order are formed on the main branches, and the first branching is located at a distance of up to 50 cm from the base of the branch, and the rest - alternately from one side and the other at the same distance. The remaining shoots growing on the main branch are pruned for fruiting.

This crown formation is used for peach, apricot, sweet cherry and wide-crowned apple varieties.

Semi-flat crown

The technology for forming a semi-flat crown is as follows: a one-year-old planted in spring is shortened to a height of 65 cm, swollen buds sniff at a height of up to 40 cm to form a bole. Then choose three developing escape, which are located oppositely along the row, to form the first tier of the crown. The angle of departure from the trunk must be at least 60°. A strong central conductor is left, and competitors are removed. In the next two years, two tiers are formed on the central conductor, two skeletal branches in each. In this case, the departure of skeletal branches from the axis of the row is allowed no more than 20 °, and the distance between the tiers is 70-90 cm.

Semi-skeletal branches are placed evenly on both sides at a distance of 40 cm from the trunk and 30 cm from each other. Fruit branches form on the main and semi-skeletal branches, as well as on the central conductor between the main branches.

Semi-flat crown of an apple tree

On a low trunk, after the completion of the formation of a semi-flat crown, the trees should have a height of up to 3.2 m and at the same time form a solid fruit wall. During the period of fruiting trees and weakening of growths, pruning is used. When the trees thicken, they are thinned out, some places are removed or bent down by competitors and fatty shoots, and fruit branches are rejuvenated.

The semi-flat crown is very convenient for caring for plantings and harvesting.

Low volume flat spindle

This formation allows you to create trees on a seed rootstock of small size, high-yielding, early-growing, with a stable root system and convenient for crown care. Trees with such a crown begin to bear fruit in the 4-5th year and give a marketable crop in the 5-6th year.

6 year old low stem low volume flat spindle(arrows indicate the removal of the central conductor by transferring to a lateral shoot)

The crown is formed within 5-6 years. In the spring of the first year, an annual seedling is cut at a height of 70-80 cm. On a trunk up to 30 cm high, all swollen buds sniffle, and the shoots that have grown from all buds are left. In the first year, you should take care of the plant in such a way that by autumn you will get shoot growths of at least 60 cm in length.

In the spring of the second year, the shoots are bent in the direction of the row at an angle of 80 °, and then shortened by 1/3-1/4 of the length. The lower shoots shorten less, and the upper ones more. On the upper side, buds scurry, which in turn leads to the development of second-order horizontal branches from the lateral buds, which are overgrown with fruit branches, as well as to eliminate the possibility of developing fatty shoots.

The lower bent shoots are tied with twine to stakes driven into the ground, and the upper ones to the lower shoots. In the future, all the upper branches are tied to the lignified lower ones. The conductor is shortened by 40 cm, depending on the strength of the growth and branching of the tree. A conductor cut higher often does not produce well-developed shoots along its entire length, gaps form in the crown, the height of the tree increases, and productivity decreases.

In the next four years, the same crown formation operations are performed as in the second year of life. In the fifth or sixth year, the central conductor is removed by transferring to a weak horizontal branch.

Scheme of crown formation in the form of a low-volume flat spindle on a seedling rootstock

When forming a crown in the form of a low-volume flat spindle, minimal pruning is required: the width of the fruit wall does not exceed 2 m, it turns out good illumination throughout the depth of the crown. After the formation of the tree is completed, from the fifth or sixth year, systematic thinning pruning is carried out in order to better illuminate the crown, shorten the semi-skeletal branches by transferring to a weak shoot, and also remove strong apical ones.

Combined palmette

A common feature for all palmettes is that both the main and overgrown branches in the crown are located in the same vertical plane. According to the type of free palmette, it is most expedient to form low-growing and medium-sized apple and pear varieties on semi-dwarf and medium-sized rootstocks.

In total, 8-12 skeletal branches are laid, placed along the row. The height of the trees, depending on the strength of the growth of the variety and the rootstock, ranges from 2 to 4 m, the width of the crown is 1.5-3 m.

Pruning branches when forming a palmette. In the first year, a one-year-old is cut at a height of 55 cm, in spring the shoots are sniffed on a trunk to a height of up to 40 cm from the soil surface, leaving a growth zone for a crown up to 25 cm long. In the second year, in spring, the central conductor and two branches of the first tier are left to grow vertically . In August, with the end of the growth of skeletal branches in length, the branches of the first tier with the help of spacers are given an angle of departure of 50 °, and the tops of the branches of the first tier - a vertical position with a garter to the central conductor.

Combined palmette formation technique: a - in the spring of the second year before the formation of the angle of departure; b - in the spring of the second year after the formation of an angle of departure of 60°; c - formed tree at the age of 5 years

In the third year, in spring, the central conductor is shortened at a height of up to 120 cm from the upper branch of the first tier. It is necessary to ensure that the ends of the branches of the first tier rise 20 cm above the top of the central conductor.

No more than three tiers of paired skeletal branches are laid on the central trunk, the branches are placed singly. The distance between tiers is 50-80 cm (depending on the strength of tree growth), between tiers and a single branch - 40-50 cm, between single branches - 20-25 cm. -80°. Overgrowing branches are formed without bending at intervals of 15-30 cm, giving them free growth. During the period of crown formation, the central conductor is annually shortened by 40-70 cm above the base of the last (upper) skeletal branch. In addition, competitors, vertical shoots and some of the extra growths in the zone of laying skeletal branches are cut into the ring.

In the fourth and fifth years of vegetation, the central conductor is transferred to a weak lateral annual growth so that its top is 20 cm lower than the rejected tops of the branches of the first tier.

Formation of a spindle-shaped free-growing crown

In order to form a spindle-shaped free-growing crown, the lower 3-4 branches are placed in a sparse tier and allowed to grow freely (at an angle of about 60 °). So that none of them outstrips the others in growth, they observe subordination.

Horizontally oriented overgrowing branches are placed on these branches and on the central conductor. When forming, minimal pruning is used, which consists in removing competitors and strong vertical branches.

Overgrowing branches, if necessary, thin out and make sure that they do not lengthen too much. Periodically they are cut off, making a cut on a strong, well-located branch, which is closer to the central conductor. This allows you to keep the crown in certain dimensions and have young, more prone to fruiting branches in it.

Reducing the height of large-sized crowns

Large crowns occupy an unreasonably large volume. Due to the developing exposure of branches in their deep parts, the leafy and fruitful canopy moves up and to the periphery. Thus, the yield of fruits per unit area of ​​the crown projection and its volume is low, and caring for such trees is much more difficult.

The situation can be significantly improved if the crown height is reduced to 3 m, and the width, at least in one direction, to 2.5 m. branch.

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Peculiarities of crown formation With the help of pruning, the most productive zone of the tree is formed. This helps to prevent shortcomings in the structure of the crown, to reduce the exposure of branches. In addition, pruning regulates the strength of growth and fruiting, which, in turn, increases

From the author's book

Crown Forming Technique The shape of the tree crown must be chosen at the very beginning of the garden. The area that the gardener sets aside for trees should be used to the fullest extent possible. They form a compact crown, which consists of skeletal branches of all orders, the

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Pruning Fruit Trees Planting a garden is a big deal. But it is equally important to grow it - to make sure that fruit trees not only bear fruit, but also organically fit into the overall picture of your site, deliver aesthetic pleasure. Just like a hairstyle

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FORMATION OF THE CROWN OF FRUIT TREES

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Fruit trees: features of pruning and crown formation Everything that has been said above about pruning and crown formation of fruit trees referred to the apple tree. A similar technique, but with certain adjustments, is applicable to other fruit trees, in particular to pears,

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Compatibility of fruit trees Grafting is the engraftment of one plant to another. The result is a hybrid that has the characteristics of both plants. For a successful result, it is necessary to choose the right stock and scion. When choosing a stock and

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Fertilizing fruit trees Before planting seedlings of fruit trees, the soil is always filled with organic and mineral fertilizers before planting. Therefore, in the first year of development, seedlings do not need to be fertilized. Subsequently, fertilizers should be applied according to

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X. On the Purpose of the Formation of Fruit and Other Trees and Shrubs A tree, left to itself, assumes the form characteristic of the given species, if it has sufficient room for development. A pear, for example, tends to form a pyramid, an apple tree more or less loose