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Leveling floor tiles. How to level the floor in the bathroom. Raising the floor level with additional means

As always, before starting work, it will not be superfluous to refer to the basic standard SNiP 3.04.01-87 / SP 71.13330.2011 “Insulating and finishing coatings”. The surface of the concrete floor must meet basic requirements this document and be:

Modern adhesives are mixtures of cement, mineral fillers and modifying additives. Therefore, floor leveling is allowed tile adhesive in the presence of irregularities up to 5 mm.

It would be useful to recall that before starting all work, you need to read the instructions for using dry building mixes for tiles and porcelain stoneware. This will help to avoid many mistakes during the installation process.

We also note that this article discusses the preparation of the floor for laying tiles in the kitchen, bathroom, hallway or any other room. When installing a shower in the bathroom, the technology becomes more complicated due to:

Leveling the floor for tiles: methods and features

Any floor finish must be mounted on a flat, dry and solid base. But rare concrete surface meets these requirements. Therefore apply various ways leveling the floor under the tiles with your own hands:

1. Tile adhesive (ready-made dry mixes);
2. Self-leveling (levelling) compositions;
3. Cement-sand composition (screed).

Each of the above means has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's consider them in more detail.

Tile adhesive

From a professional point of view, it is better to use specialized products - levelers, thin-layer finishing compositions. But since in adhesive composition there are all necessary components(cement, quartz sand, plasticizers), it is indeed allowed to be used for the purpose of smoothing the floor for laying tiles. But there are several nuances here.

• If the floor is almost even and a thin layer is required, then you need to close the adhesive big amount water to obtain the consistency of liquid sour cream;
• Preparation of the floor for laying with differences of 5-10 mm is carried out with a thicker mixture, optimally - in 2 passes. That is, for the first time it is poured and stretched preparation layer 3-6 mm thick, and in the second - finishing, no more than 4 mm.

Secondly, many craftsmen prefer to use cheap mixtures for leveling, and already directly when working with tiles or porcelain stoneware, use expensive, professional compositions with a high degree of adhesion and plasticity. In addition, they already contain special water-repellent additives, due to which preliminary waterproofing is not required. This is true for kitchens, balconies, hallways and other similar rooms.

Third there is no clear instruction. Each master develops for himself his own algorithm of work, but the principle is the same: cleaning, priming and applying a leveling mixture. The discrepancy is only in proportions, and most importantly, in timing. Cement needs at least 28 days for full maturation and strength development, but the percentage of its content in adhesive mixtures less than half of the total mass. In addition, a variety of plasticizers are included in the formulation, including hardening accelerators, workability enhancement, and the like. Therefore, it is worth focusing on such an indicator as the period after which a full load on ceramic flooring is allowed. As a rule, when internal works this period is 5 to 7 days.

The technology is simple:

Self leveling compounds

Incredibly convenient development that allows you to smooth the surface of the base with a layer of 2 mm to 10 cm - these are leveling compounds. They are divided into basic levelers (coarse-grained), universal and finishing (fine-grained thin-layer). We note right away that all three types are suitable for our purposes (depending on the thickness of the layer). For the formation durable coating it is better to use cement or cement-gypsum compositions.

The advantages of bulk compositions are in the speed and convenience of working with them. Allowed laying ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, artificial or natural stone already 3-5 days after filling. You need to select the appropriate composition based on:

1. Applications (indoor or outdoor);
2. Method of use (manual or machine);
3. Layer thickness.

The device of a bulk floor has to be made strictly according to the instruction. The surface is cleaned of dirt and old coatings, weak areas are removed and filled with repair mixtures. Next, a primer is applied in 2-3 layers with mandatory drying for 12-24 hours.

Along the perimeter of the room, the level of the new floor is marked on the walls or point beacons are installed. When forming a layer with a cross section of more than 1 cm, it is desirable to use a damper tape.

The solution is kneaded in the proportion indicated on the label, poured onto the surface and distributed with a spatula, doctor blade. The coating is rolled with a needle roller for deaeration and compaction. The leveled base will be ready for further work in a few days.

Screed

Cement-sand mixture is a universal and inexpensive means of leveling any type of base. Due to the high content of the binder, the surface is very hard, practically does not deform and withstands significant loads. But the period of drying and curing is too long - up to 28 days. Because of this, preference is often given to bulk trains or tile adhesive.

To level the floor with a layer of more than 3 cm, a full-fledged screed fits perfectly. You can purchase a ready-made packaged mixture or form it yourself in an approximate proportion: 1 part of cement, 3-5 parts of sand and water in an amount sufficient to obtain a thick solution (approximately 20% by volume). You can add screenings, crushed stone, reinforcing fiber, expanded clay, crushed slag to the composition. That is, everything that will allow you to give the screed additional properties: strength, thermal insulation, etc.

Lighthouses are installed on the floor. These can be reference products, metal profiles fixed with mortar, or even just nails screwed into the base at the required level. Ready composition applied to the surface and distributed by the rule. After pouring, experts recommend covering the floor with a film and periodically moistening it for uniform maturation of the cement and gaining strength. After 14-28 days (depending on the thickness), the screed is ready for laying tiles or porcelain stoneware.

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Overhaul in an apartment or house involves leveling surfaces. This is especially true when it comes to the secondary housing market: the buildings of the Soviet period are not distinguished by even surfaces.

Leveling the floor under the tiles - compulsory procedure, it is important to carry out for several reasons:

• uneven surface and large differences will complicate the process of laying tiles;
• the consumption of tile adhesive increases, which is not a cheap material;
• if there are voids under the floor tiles, its strength is reduced. Cracks are possible, a falling object can crack the tile in a problem area.

And although visually you do not see the need for alignment, if there is a slight slope in the bathroom, then water will collect in that place. Unpleasant Consequence negligence.

On preparatory processes never waste time. Unprepared surface or improperly equipped workplace complicate the workflow. More material consumption, time spent and nerves spent - that's what will happen in the end.

Can the floor be tiled?

A logical question arises: how to properly align the floor under the floor tiles? Consider several popular options and features of performing such work.

1. Cement-sand screed
2. Self-leveling compounds
3. Dry screed method
4. Tile adhesive.

Now about each method in more detail.

The traditional way of leveling floors: ordinary mortar

The traditional way, known for many years. The combination of sand, cement and water results in a durable mortar ideal for leveling.

This method is used when you need to raise the floor level by 3 cm or more. Next, we list the main works and their sequence.

• Preparatory work: removal of dust, dirt, installation of beacons.
• Solution preparation. Cement grade 500 is used - a common option - in a ratio of 1 to 3. Water is added in the proportion: one liter of water per kilogram of cement, but you also need to look visually. The solution is mixed either manually or in a concrete mixer. It is possible to use a construction mixer if the power of the device allows it to work in this mode.
• The solution is poured over the beacons, the surface is leveled using the rule.
• When the solution has dried up, the beacons must be removed, and the void that has appeared should be topped up with a liquid solution. This must be done so that over time the beacons do not rust and negative processes do not begin.

The disadvantage of this method is the long drying of the cement-sand screed. The technology says that the complete drying of the flooded floor will occur after two weeks, or even longer.

It is worth distinguishing between complete drying of the surface and drying, which allows you to step on the flooded floor. The very next day you will be able to walk on the new floor, but within another two weeks, shrinkage will take place, the floor will dry out completely.

How to make a regular floor screed, details in this video.

To ensure uniform drying, I cover the flooded surface with plastic wrap, and also moisten it with water from time to time. If any part of the floor dries out faster and requires more moisture, then cracks may appear. Cracks in the surface will need to be additionally repaired. I poured it and it straightened itself out.

What are self leveling compounds?

How to level the floor under the tiles in this way?

These are mixtures based on cement or sand with various additives and plasticizers. The bottom line is that it is not required to install beacons, tighten the solution, and the like. Such mixtures are effective and easy to use.

The technology is:

• the surface is considered ready for pouring if it is clean, foreign objects, large debris, dirt, greasy spots. The surface should be primed for better adhesion.
• the solution is diluted in accordance with the instructions that are on the bag. Mix well with a mixer.

If the mixture is not properly mixed, lumps, clots form, as a result, the surface will turn out to be as uneven and fragile as before. Set the mixer to low speed so that you can mix the mixture well.

• pouring is carried out from the far end of the room, beacons are not required. Special needle soles will allow you to move around the room and distribute the mixture throughout the construction site.
• use a spiked roller to disperse the mixture over the entire area. The roller will also allow you to get rid of the mixture bubbles in the air, which could reduce the strength of the future floor.

This option has fundamental advantages. Self-levelling compounds are easy to use, low consumption and affordable prices make this option popular among builders.

Future mixtures are sold in bags and packaged in 20 or 25 kg. If you want to raise the floor level by 1 cm on an area of ​​1 m2, then this bag is enough.


The floor does not have high strength, but you will avoid any waves, drops and bumps. The finished floor will be perfectly flat, so tile installation will be quick and easy.

Dry casting

By analogy with dry plaster, a screed that uses bulk materials and GVL or OSB boards is called dry. The essence of the method is that the surface is leveled with a backfill. Expanded clay or fine fraction slag acts as such. After that, GVL or OSB boards are mounted on top. A small screed is already made on them, and then tiles are laid.

Now about everything in more detail.

If you are faced with the question of how to level an uneven floor with incredible differences, you can’t do without backfilling. Kermazite or slag also performs the function of fillers in lightweight concrete. The porosity and low weight of the material does not create a large additional load on interfloor panels, for example.

It is practical to use a dry screed in cases where there are large differences and you need to raise the floor level.

The following technology is used:

• the surface is prepared: all unnecessary is removed, the room is ventilated;
• waterproofing is laid - polyethylene film;
• T-shaped beacons are installed, along which the bedding will then be equal. Use a level and other verification methods;
• pour to a thickness of at least 3 cm, after which expanded clay or slag should be compacted over the entire area;
• GVL or OSB sheets are being installed;
• concrete contact is applied, which will ensure good adhesion of the screed to the slabs;
• a finishing screed 2.5 cm thick is poured.

To many, this method will seem complicated, but this is partly true. To level the floor with large differences, another type of work is used.

The filling is carried out with the same expanded clay, mounted on top plaster mesh. After that, another 3 cm of cement-sand mortar is poured. The mesh is mounted so that individual particles of the bedding do not float up and interfere with work.

Can the floor be leveled with tile adhesive?

The last of the methods listed at the beginning of the article said that the floor surface can be leveled with tile adhesive.

The method itself is costly, because the cost of tile adhesive is higher cement-sand mixture. In addition, tile adhesive in its own way technical properties not intended for flooring. A large thickness of such a fill will not be strong and reliable.

Details on leveling the floor with tile adhesive in this video.

But this option has its advantages:

1. High Adhesion: Tile adhesive is designed to firmly bond the tile to the surface. A small fill of the floor with glue will provide high level adhesion.
2. The plasticity of the solution, it is convenient to work with it.
3. Fast drying time. As we wrote above, according to the technology, the cement-sand screed should dry out within two or even more weeks. And although we are talking about a screed with a thickness of 3.5 cm or more, the tile adhesive itself dries quickly.
4. It does not shrink: you can fill in according to the level and be sure that it will remain so.

Leveling the floor with tile adhesive is rational when it comes to a small fill, sealing small pits and grooves, cracks in the base. Useful when it comes to a modest building area, and buy extra Construction Materials I don `t want.

Outcome

We considered four options for how to level the floor under the tiles with your own hands. If you need to raise the floor by 1-2 cm, use self-leveling compounds. Tile glue will also cope with a small area. The floor is terribly uneven, there are several cm differences - a dry screed and a traditional mortar will come to the rescue.

How to lay tiles on the floor exactly the most easy way in this video story.

See the details on the topic: is it possible to level the floor with gypsum plaster?

It takes a little time to decide on the flooring that you would like to see in your bathroom. Much more of it will be needed to prepare or level an existing foundation. After dismantling the old floor, it is almost every time that the rough frame has various defects in the form of cracks, chips, height differences and others. And for laying a new coating, only a perfectly flat surface without flaws is required.

The bathroom is designed to use a wide variety of floors from regular tiles to linoleum. Besides, modern technologies allow laying self-leveling structures made of polymer compositions, waterproof laminate and others. Each of them is good and beautiful in its own way, and, most importantly, it is suitable for use in high humidity without any restrictions. However, no matter which option you choose, in any case, you cannot do without leveling the floor to a flat surface. Let's figure out how to level the floor in the bathroom.

Leveling materials

Preparation begins with the selection of the main components, as well as tools for leveling the floor. Typically, such mixtures have a base in the form of a gypsum or cement material. Based on the characteristics of the operation of bathrooms, it would be reasonable to give preference to the second option. These solutions can be recognized by the characteristic paper packaging with a polyethylene layer that protects against moisture.

If, when opening the bag, an expired or damp solution was found inside, then its use is not recommended, since quality screed won't work anymore. Separately, it should be noted that the mixtures include special components that increase the elasticity of the coating and its other operational properties. For example, the synthetic component can significantly reduce the number of microcracks during screeding.

Types of solutions

The tile must be laid on a surface that has been careful preparation. Exactly this stage depends entirely on quality mixtures. Usually, two types of solutions are used to create a screed:

In practice, the use of the latter type of mixture looks more preferable due to the reduction in labor costs for the work being done. Another name for raw materials is self-leveling floor. It removes all imperfections on its own. It, in turn, can also be classified into two types:

The first mixture is distinguished by larger fractions, which actively help the formation desired thickness screeds even in the presence of significant flaws. Finishing screeds are suitable for forming a perfectly even coating.

Preparing for laying the mortar is not something complicated, just follow the written instructions. Prepare exactly as directed necessary ingredients V desired proportion while maintaining the order of operations. It is usually recommended to pour the dry mixture into a container of water, then mix everything until certain color or consistency. For example, for a high-quality screed, the following conditions must be met:

• temperature from 5 to 25 °C above zero;
• air humidity not more than 90%;
• absence of drafts in the room after installation 24 hours.

Solution mixing

Floor preparation, leveling, waterproofing

Requires compliance certain conditions. So, the old coating is initially dismantled. Followed by inspection and preparation. rough coating are carried out waterproofing works, held The final stage- screed.

The removal of the previous floor, whether it be linoleum, waterproof laminate, tile or other coatings, is carried out quite carefully. Particular attention should be paid to the tile, since a puncher is required to dismantle it. The dismantling of the previous layer takes place completely together with the screed and waterproofing.

floor leveling

If we do not remove them, then perhaps the new layer will not last long or will not meet the stated performance characteristics. After removing all the previous elements, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection for cracks. When identified, they are sealed with simple tile adhesive. Only after this is a high-quality cleaning of the surface from the remaining debris and dust.

The preparation of the floor covering continues in the form of waterproofing over the entire base area. It is necessary to make the surface completely impervious to water, so a coating or adhesive sealing is used. Most often, insulating rolls are used, if necessary, to protect not only the floor from moisture, but also the walls, if there is such a need and the tile with the solution cannot cope on its own.

A typical example is a shower cabin, which is attached to the floor and wall. It is not always hermetic, moreover, it is not designed for comprehensive protection of the premises from water ingress. For other cases, the use of coating materials is recommended. They are made, as a rule, according to simple instructions, i.e. mix the dry mixture and liquid solution between themselves.

After that, the finished substance is applied to the floor surface. Often this is done using a conventional roller, but if there is hard-to-reach places the mixture is recommended to distribute with a brush. The solution is laid in 2 layers up to 10 cm thick above the surface of the floor covering, as well as the wall. In the joints, it is best to lay a waterproofing tape. Consumption rate insulating material is 2-3 kg per 1 m 2 of area.

In order to understand how to level the floor in the bathroom, you must be able to correctly calculate the zero level of the base. This is where special tags or beacons come to the rescue. The way to mark them is quite simple. Initially, you need to measure one meter from the overlapping tile in one of the corners, which will become the starting point.

Already from it, with the help of the building level, a conditional line is marked along the entire perimeter. The resulting distance from this line to the floor is measured. Don't be surprised if it will be different in many places. Usually, the shallowest one is taken from the resulting marks, i.e. the gap from the tile to the resulting line is the smallest of all.

Draw a baseline through it zero level, after which it is moved 30 mm above the highest point. That allows you to set beacons, which are oriented during the work on pouring the floor.

These points are mounted parallel to the lines, so the first beacon covers the highest point and serves as a guide for subsequent marks.

fill

So, all the necessary preparation has been carried out, it remains to fill the floor with the selected raw materials. The prepared solution is carefully poured onto the finished base to the beacons and leveled using the rule. Then it takes time for the material to dry, so drafts should be excluded from blowing the room. After which it is applied finishing pouring, which will be your floor covering.

Video instruction

The tile keeps within in rooms with the increased humidity. Tiles, as a material, are quite beautiful and durable. The tile is very resistant to various kinds of damage, which means the floor will last a very long time.

Ceramic tile flooring has several major advantages over any other type of flooring. Such flooring very easy to clean and clean. Spilled water, as well as any organic pollution, is easily and simply removed from the surface of the tile. Often, tiles are laid in kitchens, toilets, and bathrooms. Tiles have many more advantages. This coating also has a drawback - it is very demanding on the evenness of the base. Let's find out how to level the floor under the tiles.

To level the floor under the tiles, experts recommend making a real, full-fledged screed. Before pouring, very thorough waterproofing is necessary. Tiles can be laid only after the screed has completely hardened. The material does not like height differences, so the screed should be carefully leveled.

If you cannot decide how and with what to carry out the alignment procedure, the room itself will tell you what to use. Evaluate the humidity, elevation changes, slopes, loads, as well as the costs of finances, effort and your time - you will understand what is most suitable in a particular case.

The process of leveling a concrete floor can be done in several ways. Depending on the situation and type of room, as well as the finish, choose suitable technology. Today, dry screeds are used to level floors, traditional screeds based on wet cement mortar, as well as modern self-leveling materials.

Dry screed

The technology is very simple, its cost is not high. To level the concrete floor in this way, no special skills and special equipment are required. This method is popular with those who are going to equip the floors with their own hands.

This screed is called dry because, unlike traditional way technology does not provide even a gram of water. Often this screed is used to level floors for laminate, tile and other types of finishing coatings.

Dry screed laying

In order to level the floor in this way, it is necessary to carry out several operations. At first monolithic slab must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and various debris.

When the surface is clean, a layer is laid on the slab. waterproofing material. For these purposes, it is recommended to use a thick construction polyethylene film. Its edges must be wrapped on each wall by at least 100 mm.

Then a special granular mixture is poured over the entire surface of the base and evenly distributed. The layer thickness must be at least 50 mm. Then the horizontal plane is controlled and the mixture layer is carefully compacted. For compaction, you can use a hand or electric tool. After the pillow is thoroughly compacted, a substrate is laid on the surface, on which the tiles can already be laid.

Among the advantages of this technology, excellent thermal insulation characteristics are distinguished, which are ensured through the use of a porous granular mixture.

Cement-sand screed

This is the classic way. If you think about how to level the floor under the tiles, then such a screed allows you to get a base of sufficiently high strength for any type of premises. This screed is also recommended for leveling surfaces in garages.

Before starting work, the surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. Then, after that, the base is covered with primer penetrating compounds. Next, beacons are fixed. After that, a solution of sand and cement is prepared and the screed is poured.

The solution is poured out between the beacons and, using the rule, is evenly distributed between the slats. So, filling is performed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

As you can see, this technology will not cause any difficulties. The cost of this process is not high, and the price-quality ratio is on top.

Self-levelling compounds or screed?

One of the cheapest ways to level the floor is, of course, a screed. The mixture is prepared independently. You can add various fillers to the solution, which will increase the strength. You can also buy already ready mixes that just needs to be diluted with water. The screed is indispensable if there are large height differences and other serious defects on the surface.

But this method, in addition to its advantages, also has significant disadvantages. So that the concrete wet screed completely dried and gained its strength, a certain amount of time must pass - often, it is about 3 weeks. Also, before laying the screed, it is necessary to lay the waterproofing, and then carefully sand the surface several times.

Modern building mixtures help to level the floors very carefully, moreover, the required drying time is only 4 days. This saves you a lot of hassle, money and time. There is nothing easier than leveling the floor with these mixtures. They are ideal for tile, laminate and other demanding and capricious finishes.

What are these mixtures? These are special compounds based on polymers. By their properties and characteristics, they resemble popular self-leveling floors. The composition is very easy to spread on the floor, hardens quickly and then provides excellent surface quality and excellent adhesion for laying tiles.

Polymer blends can be divided into several categories:

• Mixtures for primary, rough processing;
• Mixtures for finishing coatings;
• Mixtures for the elimination of large defects.

Self-levelling compounds for rough processing are applied in a thin layer up to 2 cm. These tools will help get rid of small defects, waves, slopes.

Finishes are not high strength characteristics, so they are applied in a thin layer to obtain a smooth and perfectly even surface. Compositions for eliminating large defects have the greatest strength and have excellent adhesion to a monolithic surface.

You can buy these products in bags of 20 and 25 kg. So, for 1 sq. m. you will need one bag of the mixture. Before leveling the floor under the tiles, it is advisable to perform calculations on how much materials will be needed.

Scheme of work

The first step is to prepare the level, as well as the container in which the mixture will be kneaded. For mixing, you need to purchase a nozzle for a drill. It is desirable to have a drill on which you can adjust the speed. You will also need measuring cups or scales. From the tool you need a spatula and a needle roller.

Preparatory stage

At this stage, all furniture is removed from the room, and it is also recommended to thoroughly ventilate the room. Self-levelling agents do not like drafts, high humidity and a sharp drop in temperature.

In order to obtain a strong and flat surface the site must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. If it is not removed, then it will be impossible to talk about the surface on which it will then be possible to lay tiles.

If in draft floor there are various defects, they are recommended to be puttied, otherwise this will violate the evenness of the applied composition.

measurements

After cleaning, they begin measuring work. For this, experts recommend laser levels. They are ideal for these purposes. These devices project a mark around the entire perimeter. You do not have to conduct long calculations and take measurements with a tape measure.

It is necessary to install the device at the highest point. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the floor, and a rope is tied to them. This is done to control the zero level.

If laser level no, then you can use a water meter, but a laser meter is best suited.

If it is necessary to obtain high strength, then a reinforcing mesh should be laid before leveling. It is necessary if the base surface needs to be raised by more than 2 cm. The reinforcing mesh will several times increase the adhesion between the concrete floor and the polymer coating.

Leveling the floor

To get the most even floors, it is necessary to prepare the mixture clearly according to the instructions. For high-quality mixing, it is ideal to use a mixer. The resulting composition is poured across the floor from the far wall to the doors.

The solution on the floor should be smoothed with a spatula, and then it is recommended to pass over the layer with a roller with needles. This will remove air bubbles that affect strength. It is very important to remember that self-levelling compounds dry very quickly. Therefore, you can level the floor only within 20 minutes. Then the composition will seize. Professionals do not recommend immediately applying the composition over the entire area.

The composition is applied in layers. The thickness of one layer can be from 5 to 20 mm. Thus, it is possible to obtain a durable surface. Thin layers will not give strength, and large ones will harden for a long time. During filling, you must constantly check the level.

After drying polymer composition you can lay tiles on a perfectly flat floor. If you did not know how to level a concrete floor, now you can do it yourself. These technologies are suitable for floors under tiles, laminate and other floor coverings.

The bathroom is a special place main feature which is considered high humidity And constant contact with water, which imposes certain requirements on the quality of the floor and walls. In addition, the bathroom is not just a place where you can wash yourself, but also where you want to relax and unwind during water procedures Therefore, the aesthetic component of the repair is also important.

A set of actions aimed at improving this part of the apartment is unthinkable without arranging the floor, and the first thing it starts with is leveling. No top coat can be laid on a surface that has defects in the form of cracks, dents and bumps. Having materials, a tool and a desire to put the apartment in order, you can cope with such repairs yourself.

The floor covering is laid on a leveled horizontal surface

The upcoming work can be divided into three stages: removal of the old floor, proper leveling and laying the finish coat.

It can be left only if it is even and allows, after applying waterproofing, to lay tiles or other coatings. However, this rarely happens, and in most cases old surface have to shoot down, and not only for best quality repairs, but also to prevent excessive floor leveling. As already mentioned, the floor must be low, so this height limitation should be taken into account.

Ideally, everything that was on the base plate is removed: tiles, layers of old waterproofing, screed. Just do it carefully so as not to break the stove itself. The smoother the prepared base, the better, so it will be necessary to prime and wipe all the cracks, remove protrusions and obvious bumps.

After this dusty work is done, you will need to tidy up the room: remove debris, sand and even dust so that these particles cannot prevent the waterproofing from seizing the surface. There will be no superfluous surface primer special composition, which will bind the remaining dust particles to the floor and improve its adhesion to the future coating.

Video - How to level the floor in the bathroom

Whatever the chosen method, any alignment begins with waterproofing. Previously, the builders had at their disposal roofing material, which did not differ in long and impeccable service. You can buy it now, but for the bathroom, you should still prefer even more expensive, but at the same time more reliable materials.

There are a lot of options to provide protection from water now. Roll insulation is conveniently cut and laid out on the floor, fusing it to the surface or fastening the joints. Penetrating compounds are extremely easy to use, but create such a protection against water that will not allow leakage even under pressure.

Bitumen-based mastics for coating insulation, they are applied like paint and create an insurmountable barrier to moisture. Which option to prefer is a matter of taste and capabilities of each developer. You can even combine them if you wish. The main thing here is not to strive for economy at the expense of quality.

It is necessary to apply the selected product not only on the floor, but also on the walls with an impressive margin, by 15-20 centimeters. This will protect the walls and floor in case of an accident.

Approaching the leveling process, it is necessary to calculate the height difference that needs to be leveled. In a small room, it will most likely be insignificant, but you need to get rid of it. An exception is the slope, which is saved if there is a desire to do it in the floor drainer. In this case, it is necessary that all the water drains in one direction.

Knowing the height difference and the level to which it is allowed to raise the floor, you can estimate the maximum thickness of the leveling layer and decide on the method.

Most often, it is she who is used, since this option allows you to smooth out height differences from 3 to 10 cm, and on the scale of a small bathroom they are unlikely to be larger.

Operating procedure

1. First of all, you need find the zero plane that is, the level of the future floor, which is calculated by adding to the highest point of the room the minimum possible thickness of the layer of the selected fill.
   Masters find the highest point of the floor in different ways. For example, a line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the wall at a meter height from an arbitrary section. 97 cm below it, a parallel one is outlined. It will be very easy to measure the slope using a ruler, as well as find the lowest and highest points of the floor perimeter.
   In the case when the “peak” of the height is located in the middle of the room, a thread is pulled along the line of the highest point and the room is circled around it. If it is somewhere caught on the surface, then the level of the highest point is being raised.
   If you want to cope with such measurements as soon as possible, an indispensable tool will be laser level. It is advisable to purchase it, especially when repairs are planned not only in the bathroom.
2. It is recommended to ventilate the room in parallel with measurements, because everyone further actions must be performed when closed windows, without drafts.
3. Focusing on the zero plane, expose lighthouses. Most often these are stripes. metal profile. The last of them are laid along long walls rooms at a distance of about 20 cm, and the rest are distributed in space so that the ends of the rule lie on neighboring lighthouses. Slides of mortar are added under the profile so that the tops of the rails coincide with the zero level. When all the guides are ready, they are waiting for the solution to solidify.
4. After setting, the zero level mark on the walls is no longer needed, and a damper tape is glued around the perimeter to compensate for possible expansion of the material.
5. Fill preparation. There are options here. The traditional mixture of sand, cement and water gives good results, but requires proportions. If you already have experience in similar work or a reliable adviser, then you can not be afraid of mistakes, otherwise it is better to use ready-made shop means. They will cost more, but the manufacturer puts on the packaging detailed instructions, with strict adherence to which everything will work out and nothing will have to be redone. In addition, they are for different purposes, and you can find a special mixture for rooms with high humidity.
   Damp and expired mixtures can not be bought! It is best to knead the solution not with your hands, but with a special tool, for example, a drill with a mixer nozzle. This will make it faster and more reliable.
6. The finished mixture is placed in the paths between the beacons, tamping and leveling the rule. The room must be filled immediately, avoiding long breaks. If the solution managed to seize before it was combined with the next portion, a so-called cold seam is formed, which violates the strength and solidity of the screed.
7. After a couple of days, when the surface of the solution hardens enough to support the weight of a person, it is necessary to remove the beacons. If they are firmly stuck in the body of the screed, it will be enough to slightly hit the profile with a hammer a couple of times - this will help to rescue it. Rub the remaining grooves with mortar, and at the same time grind possible irregularities.
8. Now that everything is ready, the most long stage – screed drying. It must be covered with cellophane or moistened with water to prevent uneven drying and cracking. This will continue for two weeks, after which the screed will simply dry for the same time. Such a solution gains its final strength in about a month.
9. The final touch - laying the final cover. Most often it is a tile, but now there is also a waterproof laminate. Polymer self-leveling floors are also gaining popularity.

Typically, expanded clay is used in order to get rid of a significant slope and irregularities without overloading the floor. Another plus of such a filler is the reduction in the cost of the screed.

As already mentioned, in a small room, extreme height differences of more than 10 cm are rare, so expanded clay is rarely used to level the floor in the bathroom. In addition, the minimum thickness of the bulk layer is 3 cm, and the same amount of mortar is needed on top of it, so the whole “pie” can significantly raise the floor, which is just not required. However, sometimes the height and condition of the floor still allow you to make a screed on expanded clay in the bathroom, so this method should not be completely overlooked.

Operating procedure

1. Search for the zero level and setting beacons.
2. Filling of small expanded clay. Large is not used, it is worse compacted and increases the thickness of the layer.
3. The backfill layer should be compacted as tightly as possible so that its surface does not reach the tops of the lighthouses by about 3 cm.
4. Pour the laid expanded clay with cement milk for greater strength. Alternatively, you can put a reinforcing mesh on top.
5. When the cement milk grabs, cover the layer of expanded clay with mortar, this time flush with the lighthouses.
6. It remains to dry the screed, take care of its waterproofing and lay a finishing coating.

The easiest and fastest option, which is available only when the floor is relatively flat and the height difference is no more than 3 cm. Such mixtures are different, and you can purchase a special one that is designed for the bathroom.

Operating procedure

1. Following the manufacturer's instructions, dilute the mixture.
2. Pour the prepared liquid onto the floor, spread with a spatula to spread faster.
3. You do not need to level anything, as the solution will level itself. The only thing that needs to be done is roll the filling layer with a needle roller, to expel air and better distribute over the surface.
   Particular attention should be paid to the joints of portions from different batches, so that heterogeneities and seams do not turn out. Pour each subsequent portion quickly, preventing the first one from seizing, so you need to work together. While one rolls out the mixture with a roller, the second prepares a new batch of mortar. The place is small, so the work will be done pretty quickly.

When living rooms are poured with such a mixture, it is allowed to walk on the floor in paint shoes, but this cannot be done when leveling the floor in the bathroom. The reason is waterproofing. Coating or roll is usually used, and both of these types are afraid of mechanical damage.

Whichever method is chosen, it is important to remember that a small mistake or inattention made when repairing this small room, threatens big troubles. They are easy to avoid if you take a responsible approach to each stage of work. The result of all efforts will be the absence of problems with the neighbors and the bathroom as in the picture.