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What to do with the subfloor in the house. Draft floor in a wooden house: what it is eaten with. Wet subfloor screed

A subfloor is required for laying "small" or "soft" floor coverings. The article tells about the features of the arrangement of wooden floors, which are often used in houses, and the choice of materials, which is determined by the type of foundation and the type of finishing floor covering. The schemes and stages of work on the arrangement of the subfloor are described. After reading the article, you will learn how to make a reliable, durable draft floor with a flat surface.

The subfloor is the top of the floor pie Source belinastroy.ru

Kinds

The most common version of the subfloor in frame or wooden house(go "black") - the creation of a durable flooring based on beams. But for the first floor it is also possible when the logs are installed on the floor of the reinforced concrete slab along the strip foundation, on the shallow foundation slab or concrete floor on the ground. The last three options do not fundamentally differ from each other, although in all cases the methods of fastening and leveling the log along the horizontal level are different.

Since the very concrete base durable and reliable, then it can be considered as the “underlying” part of the floor of the lower floor (according to the normative terminology of SNiP 2.03.13-88). In this case, it remains to equip only the "leveling" part (wet, dry or prefabricated screed) and the "intermediate" part (heat, steam and waterproofing). And already on the leveling part lay the finish coating.

Concrete floors, equipped on the ground - this is another common option Source remontik.org

Wooden subfloor: structure

The draft floor is only part of the wooden floor. It is made from edged boards, sheet moisture-resistant wood materials. The thickness of the flooring (board or sheet) and the layout of the log have a "direct" relationship: less thickness - less interval between runs.

Important! If we are talking about the board, then diagonal laying(for example, in rooms with complex geometry), the lag step should be even less. Moreover, the angle between the board and the run must be greater than 45 °.

Wood flooring is upper layer pirogue. Layer by layer, the whole structure looks like this:

Binder. It does not affect the load-bearing properties of the floor, but acts as a support for the insulating materials.

The thickness of the lining must be sufficient to support the weight of the insulation Source doma-na-veka.ru

Waterproofing. Membrane type materials are used. They do not let water through, but allow water vapor to escape from the insulation, which then exits through the vents in the basement (intake) of the foundation.

thermal insulation. Usually these are mineral wool mats, which, unlike polystyrene, are non-combustible materials.

vapor barrier. There are three types in total. Films with limited vapor permeability, which maintain a "balance" between moisture transfer from the room to the insulation and from the insulation to the outside. Vapor barrier films - a vapor barrier that almost completely excludes penetration into the insulation warm air with water vapor. Foil materials (reflex films) are a vapor barrier that returns part of the heat back into the room. All three types, as it should be for vapor barriers, have waterproof properties that protect the insulation from above, from the side of the room, from water ingress.

Flooring.

Multilayer plywood subfloor sheet will withstand heavy loads Source yug-energo.ru

On our website you can find contacts construction companies that offer a turnkey service. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Device options

There are two main stitching options:

under the beams. The disadvantage of this method is that there is often not enough “space” in the subfield of the house to perform the fastening procedure. Advantage - almost the entire volume between the beams can be used for insulation. Only when reflective vapor barrier materials, it is necessary to leave a small gap between the film and the flooring.

Fastening to each beam, on both sides of the "opening", cranial bars - a filing is mounted to them. The most common and easy to implement method. The disadvantage is that the insulation layer will be less than the thickness of the cranial bar plus filing.

This is how the overlap scheme looks like with filing to the cranial bar Source derevyannyydom.com

over the beams. The disadvantage is that the height of the lag is chosen more than the thickness of the insulation. As an option, it is possible to lay an additional counter-lattice on top of the log for another layer of thermal insulation.

In principle, such a complex overlapping device is only necessary for a heated residential building. in the garden or country house seasonal residence you can limit yourself to only wooden flooring without filing and insulation, although waterproofing in this case must also be laid to protect the wood from moisture.

Important! All wooden elements, from filing to flooring, it is necessary to impregnate with antiseptics and fire retardants. And after sawing and drilling, the ends must be processed again with these compounds with a brush.

Fire bioprotection is an obligatory stage of wood processing working in extreme conditions Source derevovdom.ru

Material requirements

For flooring, usually choose the following materials:

edged board;

waterproof plywood;

Fiberboard or chipboard with waterproof treatment;

• cement particle board(DSP) or GVL.

Plywood is stronger due to its multi-layer structure, and it is much thinner for a subfloor.

Video description

How to choose sheet material for the subfloor in the video:

Classic scheme

A feature of the classical scheme is a significant distance between the beams.

Usually the layout step is 0.8-1 m, and this is “reflected” in the choice of board thickness.

It looks like a "powerful" overlap of a log house Source ukrasheniyedoma.com

A typical subfloor structure looks like this:

timber with a section of 15x15 or 15x20 cm;

cranial bar with a section of 4x4 cm;

filing with a board 2.0 cm thick (can be unedged, but cleared of wane) or plywood 1.5 cm thick;

waterproofing (glassine, polymer membrane);

insulation (rock wool) with a thickness of not more than 10 cm - this is all that allows the remaining volume between the beams after installing the cranial bar with filing;

vapor barrier;

board 4.5-5.0 cm thick.

And now such a construction is used, but it no longer responds modern requirements for thermal protection. Therefore, a counter-lattice is mounted on top of the beams, between which another layer of thermal insulation is laid.

The advantage of the method is also that the layout of the lag can be reduced to 30-40 cm, and the subfloor boards can be selected with a thickness of 20-24 mm.

Scheme of complex insulation frame house with double thermal insulation cover and mesh as a backing Source obustroeno.com

Modern subfloor laying scheme for wooden house more perfect and allows you to insulate the ceiling without additional "add-ons" in the form of a counter-lattice:

Boards placed on edge. Attached to the strapping beam, and, if necessary, relying on intermediate supports, they serve as a lag. The thickness of the board is 5 cm, and the width is at least 20 cm. The layout step can be made 60 cm (according to the width of the rolls stone wool), and in terms of wood consumption for runs, this option is more economical than the classic scheme.

Polymer (wire mesh) for supporting waterproofing and insulation.

Wind and waterproofing film membrane type. Allows excess moisture to ventilate, protects the insulation from water ingress and fiber weathering.

stone wool in the form of semi-rigid mats 20 cm thick.

vapor barrier.

Flooring from boards 36 mm thick.

The only downside modern scheme- poor lag stability. This is due to the large difference between the width (supporting part) and height. To ensure the stability of the structure, additional transverse braces are used, which “connect” the logs to each other and to the strapping (grillage).

A typical overlap of the first floor of a frame house from a board on the "edge" Source stranapap.ru

The advantages of the scheme are obvious - saving on lumber (in "volumetric" equivalent) and simple circuit insulation in one layer.

Draft floor of the second floor (attic) or cold attic

Under wooden floor there are no living rooms on the first floor, so “simple” materials can be used for filing without finishing or decorative surface treatment. Interfloor overlap from below they are hemmed with a planed board or clapboard.

And although the insulation of the floor between the heated floors is not required, mineral wool lay between the lag. In this floor pie, it acts as sound insulation. Ideally, acoustic wool should be used. It differs from the usual "chaotic" fibrous structure. But heat-insulating modifications can also be laid - with the same thickness and density, their sound absorption coefficient is lower than that of acoustic modifications by only 10-15%.

The ceiling of a cold attic must be insulated.

Installation of the cold attic ceiling begins with the installation of a vapor barrier Source legkovmeste.ru

And since even an “uninhabited” attic is exploited in a low-rise building, the insulation must be covered with a subfloor (but without further fine finishing).

The cold attic floor plan looks like this (from bottom to top):

hemmed ceiling of the underlying heated floor;

vapor barrier laid in a continuous and continuous layer with sizing sealing tape around the entire perimeter of the ceiling;

insulation between the beams (lag);

membrane-type waterproofing laid on the surface of stone wool;

remote bar stuffed on beams, providing a ventilation gap;

rough attic floor.

Important! The layered structure does not reflect the installation sequence. At the first stage, a vapor barrier film is attached from below the floor beams. And on top of it, a bar is mounted on the beams, to which a crate for a false ceiling is attached. If you first hem the boards, then the film will have to be laid on top of the beams. In this case, water vapor will penetrate into the wood, but there will be nowhere for them to vent, which will lead to wetting of the floor beams and create conditions for their decay.

Subfloor under tiles

The technology of how to make the correct draft floor of a wooden house for laying tiles has its own characteristics if a board is chosen for the flooring.

Tiles in a wooden house in some rooms are simply necessary due to the nature of their operation. Source et.aviarydecor.com

Unlike a tree ceramic tile does not change its linear dimensions with changes in humidity levels. Moreover, the tree reacts differently to such differences in the directions along and across the fibers. And in order to compensate for these changes, a "damper" layer must be laid on top of the boards.

As the top layer of the leveling part of the subfloor, choose plywood or moisture resistant drywall. Plywood, although made of wood, does not change its linear dimensions due to the multilayer structure with a multidirectional arrangement of fibers in each layer. But it must be borne in mind that both materials are subject to deformation during prolonged contact with water or when used indoors with a “wet” mode. And in such areas, before laying the tiles, it is necessary to make another waterproofing layer.

Plate

If a wooden house stands on a slab (foundation or ceiling on a brick plinth), then the floor of the first floor is equipped with a screed. In this case, the same technologies are used as in stone houses.

On a solid base, logs can even be installed on point adjustable supports Source pinterest.it

Even for a wooden subfloor, there is a choice among a wider list of methods:

installation of a log on stands on a concrete base without fixing to the base and bearing walls(floating floor);

installation of logs on adjustable supports;

installation of adjustable plywood.

Video description

Subfloor installation steps in this video:

It might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about.

Conclusion

Knowledge of the features of technologies and materials helps to correctly navigate when choosing the type of subfloor, since most finished projects compiled with the possibility of binding to different types of foundation. In some cases, you can even avoid unjustified costs for materials and payment for "extra" work. But this is only possible when non-professionals or unscrupulous contractors are engaged in the design and execution of work on arranging the foundation and linking to the conditions of the site. Therefore, it is better when all the work from "scratch" is done by the company the author of the project, or it also carries out architectural supervision.

Before you start laying the final coating, you need to take care of the draft. In no case should this rule be neglected, because otherwise you risk all your repairs. Alteration of the flooring and the floors themselves will require even more effort, cost and time. In addition, such a complex event can damage the entire interior of an apartment or house. So experts recommend once to come to grips with the issue of the subfloor and forget about it for many years.

There are two main ways to create a subfloor, which are divided according to the method and materials used: wet and dry. For wet, concrete or concrete expanded clay is used, and for dry, installation along logs is used.

Do-it-yourself concrete subfloor

This option is especially popular in standard city apartments, but if desired, it can also be used to equip a private house. The question is only in the foundation.

First you need to create high-quality waterproofing. This can be done using a special high-strength film. If we are talking about repairs in an apartment on the second and higher floors, we recommend that you pay special attention to insulation. Your manipulations with the floor can cause a leak and affect the repair of the neighbors below. So be very careful when mounting the film. Along the perimeter of the apartment, it must be supplemented with foam flex with a thickness of 0.5 - 1 centimeter.

The next layer of the subfloor is responsible for the thermal insulation of the room. Previously, expanded polystyrene was mainly used as a material, but recently penofol is gaining popularity, consisting of two layers at once with a very good performance. The foil layer reflects heat and prevents it from leaving the room, and the polyethylene foam itself is responsible for thermal insulation. Whatever material you choose, it must also be covered with a layer of waterproofing film.

The next important stage is the pouring of the floor with concrete or concrete expanded clay. But it’s impossible to just pour the solution onto the future subfloor. The thing is that this layer will not be able to level itself. That is why special beacons are installed before pouring, which will become the basis for leveling the floor. All beacons must be level. Only in this case, you can get a beautiful and even subfloor as a result.

If you want to increase sound insulation, as well as thermal insulation, then pay attention to expanded clay concrete. This material has excellent properties and bypasses conventional concrete in many respects.

After mixing the solution and spreading it on the floor, carefully level it with the rule, placing the tool on the beacons. Remove excess solution, then leave the coating to dry completely. Your subfloor is ready.

Do-it-yourself wooden draft floor

To make a subfloor out of wood, you will need some sort of foundation. If the house already has concrete, then logs can also be laid on it. Just make sure that concrete screed flat and has no elevation changes. Otherwise, your floor will turn out crooked and creak. Experts do not recommend the use of wooden blocks as a support for logs in the places of recesses. The problem is that over time the tree will shrink, and the logs will lose their stability. And your floors will sag and creak.

To avoid this, care must be taken preparatory stage. So, to begin with, the concrete base is leveled with a small layer of screed. The amount of solution is determined by the height difference in the room. After that, leave the resulting base until the solution dries completely.

The next item is the laying of a waterproofing film, all the joints of which must be glued with adhesive tape. On top of it, on the place where the logs will be laid, we lay a special soundproofing layer. Typically, polyethylene foam or cork material is used. Without this layer, the floors in your home will make extraneous sounds with every step.

Now it's time to tackle the lags. But for this you need a beam. Professionals recommend not saving on logs and using a cutting board High Quality. Installation will take you much less time and effort, and the rough floor with your own hands will turn out much more spectacular and faster. To install the subfloor, you will also need edged board 25 mm x 100 mm. It can be used not only for installing lags, but also for mounting roof battens and other general construction works.

The logs themselves are installed on a pre-prepared base so that the layer of soundproof lining is strictly under them. The height and slope of the lags must be checked with a level.

Now they need to be attached to the base of the floor with the help of corners so that the logs do not move anywhere and serve as the basis for the next layer.

As soon as all the logs are firmly fixed, insulation is laid between them. In no case should he enter the lags themselves, only occupy all free space between them.

On top of the lags is laid batten or plywood. This is what the subfloor will look like. Working with plywood is much easier, but it has a certain disadvantage - relatively high price. A floorboard of the same quality will cost less, but installation will require more effort and more time.

The thickness of the plywood sheet must be at least 22 millimeters, because otherwise your subfloor will sag under the weight of a person. In addition, the distribution of furniture in an apartment or house can cause a change in the relief of the subfloor. Experts recommend using plywood of increased thickness if you plan to put heavy objects in the room: a wardrobe, a refrigerator, a sideboard with big amount utensils and more.

Sheets of plywood should be stacked in a checkerboard pattern to prevent joints from being located in one line. Screw the plywood to the joists using self-tapping screws, remembering to set a distance of 2-3 centimeters from the wall for shrinkage and ventilation.

The subfloor is needed as a solid foundation for laying various coatings- parquet, laminate and other materials. Much depends on the quality of the subfloor: squeaks when walking, service life, humidity and temperature in the house. Creating a subfloor at the stage of building a house differs from the same operation, which is performed during repairs by fixing the lag. In the article we will talk about all the stages of creating a subfloor in a wooden house, so you can do this work yourself.

Mounting methods

All draft floors can be divided according to the method of attachment load-bearing structure:

• attached to walls;
• installed on a concrete base;
• installed on the ground;
• combined.

Fastening the supporting structures of the subfloor to the walls is most in demand in houses installed on a screw, columnar and strip foundation. More about different types foundations read in the article -. This method of fastening allows you to create a rigid load-bearing frame floor, but requires a large consumption of wood. The most popular mounting methods are with the help of corners and in a cut groove. The first method is simpler, but less reliable, the second method is more reliable, but involves cutting one of the crowns.

When installing the floor on a concrete base, use various props, which allow you to raise the logs above the concrete. Brick pedestals are used as supports and metal mounts. It is also possible to lay the log directly on concrete, but in this case it will be necessary to carry out very high-quality waterproofing. In some wooden houses, floor supports are installed on the ground. In this case, brick pedestals are built as supports. The combined method of fixing the supporting structure of the floor implies the use of the methods described above in any combination.

subfloor construction

The basis of the subfloor is the logs, from which the supporting structure is assembled. In most cases, the lags are laid in one row, but there are exceptions. If it is not possible to use a board of sufficient width and thickness, then the supporting structure is made two-row, placing the rows perpendicular to each other. I also use this design if the black floor sheathing boards must be laid across the room, and for this I had to lay the logs along, which increases the requirements for the width and thickness of the boards. Laying perpendicular supports under the upper joists reduces the requirements for the width and thickness of the board. A rough flooring of sawn, planed or profiled boards is laid on top of the supporting structure. This flooring not only creates a platform for laying the coating (finish floor), but is also additional element ligaments of the supporting structure.

Tools for the job

Whether you're flooring a new home or renovating an old one, you'll need a variety of tools, such as:

• benzo or electric saw;
• jigsaw;
• axe;
• chisels;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• grinder;
• hammer;
• level;
• simple pencil;
• roulette.

Installation of the subfloor at the stage of wall construction

The easiest way to make a rough floor is during the construction of the house. To do this, it is necessary to cut through or non-through grooves in the timber or logs of the corresponding crowns, into which the logs will then be laid. Optimal distance between the lags - 60–80 cm. If the thickness of the board with which the lags will be sewn up exceeds 30 mm, then the distance between the lags can be increased to 90–100 cm. Lay the lags across the room. If the width of the room exceeds 4 meters, then it is advisable to install at least one support under each log or increase the thickness and width of the log by 1–2 cm. You can also use a bar with a section of 150x150 mm. This will reduce the likelihood of floor sagging and squeaks.

Having chosen a board or beam to create a lag, measure its width and mark the corresponding crown for cutting grooves. If the wall is made of profiled or glued timber, the width of which is equal to the width of the log, then cut through the entire timber, cutting out pieces of it according to the size of the log. If the wall is made of sawn or planed timber, then cut the groove ¾ of the width and thickness. After all, the crowns from such a bar are not connected to the castle, therefore, cutting the bar, you will break the wall structure.

If you don't want lags to spoil appearance houses from profiled or glued timber, then cut the same grooves as on sawn timber.

Having prepared the grooves, cut the logs to length. If necessary, cut a lock on the logs corresponding to the groove in the wall. Then cover the joists and cutouts in the wall with protective agents that you plan to use to treat your home. More about that. After the impregnation has dried, insert the logs into the wall and check their horizontalness using a level and a long, even rail. If some lag protrudes above the others, cut it, if, on the contrary, below the others, put something under it. A crooked, twisted or cracked lag should be replaced immediately with a normal one.. If you cut the logs to create a castle, then to increase the strength of the house, install a retaining board under the logs, which will take the weight of the floor. Attach this board to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. Instead of a board, you can use steel and aluminum corners, which are sold at any hardware store. Attach these corners to the wall with thick long screws, and to the joists with bolts, washers and nuts.

After all the logs are laid, leveled and fixed, install the next crown, then cover them with the selected board. A grooved floorboard is preferable, since there is less heat loss through it. If you are insulating the floor, then first carry out all the insulation work, then sew it up with a board. Lay the board in such a way that the distance between the coating and the walls is 1-2 cm, this is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the coating due to moisture absorption. Also, do not push the flooring boards to each other as far as they will go, leaving 1–2 mm between them, which will avoid swelling of the floor due to swelling of the boards. Use self-tapping screws 70–120 mm long to fasten the covering boards to the joists. If it is not possible to screw in a self-tapping screw of this length, then first drill a pilot hole with a diameter of 1.5–2 mm.

Replacing the old floor in a wooden house

If the old wooden floor is rotten or you decide to replace it for some reason, remove the finished floor and subfloor covering, this will allow you to assess the condition of the log and walls. If the old logs are damaged, completely remove them by cutting flush with the wall. Inspect the crown into which the lags were cut; it may need to be repaired or replaced. If the crown is in order, process it with a grinder and cover protective compounds. Also treat the logs and floorboards with protective compounds.

Read the material on how to do this. Mark the lag installation sites on the wall and draw a line along their bottom. From below, close to this line, attach a support board, on which you will lay the logs. Lay the extreme logs at a distance of 10–15 cm from the walls, the remaining logs at a distance of 60–100 cm from each other (depending on the thickness of the covering boards). After installing the log, fix it with a corner, as described in the previous section, or support it on both sides with bosses from scraps of the base board or log. Such fixation will securely fix the lags and prevent the appearance of squeaks. After that, sew up the subfloor with boards, as described above.

Subfloor with supports on earth or concrete

The difference between such a floor and those described above is that the main load falls not on the walls, but on the ground or concrete. This is true for old houses and for buildings standing on slab foundation. If you are changing the floor, then remove the old boards, clean and repair the walls as described in the previous section. Then determine the installation locations of the lag and the places on which the supporting pedestals will stand. If you put the cabinets on the ground, then dig a foundation under them, a square or rectangular hole with a section of 1x1 meter and a depth of 20 centimeters. Seal the bottom of the pit and pour a layer of sand 5 cm thick on it. Sprinkle a layer of crushed stone 5 cm thick on top, then pour a reinforced concrete pillow 10 cm thick. After 5–7 days, lay a brick support on this pillow on cement mortar. The height of the support should be such that there is a distance of 1–2 cm between it and the bottom side of the log. The upper part of the support pedestal is covered with bitumen and roofing felt to ensure the waterproofing of the log. Then the logs are installed as described in the previous section, after which wedges or spacers of the required thickness are inserted between the supports and the logs, which will raise the log by fractions of a millimeter. Sheathing the log with floorboards is carried out in the same way as described above.

Floor insulation in a wooden house

Warming - required element creating a subfloor in any wooden house. Insulation reduces heat loss at home and increases the comfort of living in it. Without insulation, a wooden floor loses half of its positive qualities. in detail different methods insulation of the subfloor in a wooden house is described in the article -. Do not neglect this procedure, thanks to which you will be able to walk around the house even barefoot in winter.

Everyone knows that it is not possible to fully live in an apartment or house without an equipped floor. It is simply necessary. Is it worth doing it in a wooden house - this question worries many. Their logic boils down to the fact that why spend money on an additional subfloor, it might be easier to just lay a finishing one right away. Everything is ambiguous here.

Of course, you can get by with a clean one, but get a reliable and beautiful coverage in this case it won't work. But the main thing that the floor should stand out with is reliability, durability, Smooth surface, as well as some other parameters that are extremely difficult to achieve without a subfloor. Changing the final floor every year, if there is no rough one, is an unaffordable luxury.

Photo: draft floor in a wooden house

Draft floor - what is it?

A subfloor is a special base for a finishing floor, which forms a flat horizontal plane for it. The subfloor provides distribution of the load that acts on the floor covering.

In a wooden house, the draft floor can be done in several ways:

• wooden on logs;
• plywood flooring;
• pouring concrete.

Wooden draft floor on logs

In a wooden house, the installation of a subfloor on logs practically does not differ from its installation in monolithic or brick houses. The main difference is in the fastening of the lag.

General scheme devices

lag mount

Floor logs should not be attached to wooden wall, and you don't have to hit it. It is advisable to fix the logs to the plinth or foundation grillage, retreating from the wall by a few centimeters. At the same time, the distance of the support, which falls on the foundation, must be observed at least 10 cm on either side of the log.

Legs are attached to the plinth

Before laying the logs on the foundation, you need to lay the lower harness, made of long thin boards, to which the logs will be attached using metal anchors (corners).

The lags should not be fixed rigidly to the harness - they only need to be fixed so that they do not travel while laying other layers of the subfloor. The created structure will have a few cm indent from each wall, where thin insulation can be installed.

Definitely need waterproofing

If the distance to the foundation is less than 10 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls, however, it will be necessary to initially lay the lags on the foundation, and then attach a log or beam to them. Measure the contour of the cutout and then cut out the necessary grooves in the wood with the dimensions necessary for the distance of the support (for subsequent expansion, the lag should be added about 2 cm).

Do not forget that the laying of beams and lags is carried out on the plinth or grillage only after laying the waterproofing layer.

Lags are attached to the foundation grillage

The standard step between the lags is 40-60 cm. However, its choice depends on the width of the insulation, as well as the direct load. The lag section is also selected from the current load. With a light section, choose 15 × 10 cm, with an average - 15 × 15 cm, with a heavy one - 15 × 20 cm.

If the beam has a small cross section, and the effect of the load is significant, then it must be placed at a distance of 30-40 cm - this is a fairly optimal option.

Installation of the subfloor on the logs

With the end of the laying of the logs, the standard installation of the floor on the logs is carried out. It looks like this:

Between the insulation and the floorboard you need to leave a ventilation gap

Important! Boards, bars and logs should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent them from being exposed to various fungi and insects.

Subfloor plywood

A plywood floor will serve reliably for a long time. She has high strength. Plywood can even be used for final flooring, as if carefully sanded and varnished, it will look quite noble. However, it is more often used as a base for coating with laminate, parquet and linoleum.

Laying plywood on an old floor

Plywood can be laid:

1. On a cement base, but it is necessary to ensure the evenness and horizontalness of the base, or use adjusting racks.
2. Fastening on the logs. Here the difficulty is the exposure of the lags to ensure that the joints of the sheets hit them. Logs must be set so that their upper surface provides one horizontal plane. Engineering communications are hidden in the logs, insulation and sound insulation are laid.

Laying plywood on logs

Important! When laying plywood in one layer, it is necessary that its thickness be at least 15 mm, if in two layers, then you need to choose at least 9 mm for the layer.

All dust and debris must be removed from the subfloor before final laying of the plywood. It is also desirable to perform priming, that is, to process with a special primer.

The subfloor is a prepared base for the finishing coat: laminate, linoleum, parquet. The subfloor is wood and concrete.

Advantages of a wooden floor:

• environmental friendliness;
• thermal insulation;
• good breathability.

The disadvantage of a rough wooden floor is that this design does not resist well. high humidity. Therefore, wooden logs cannot be installed in baths and steam rooms.

Concrete screed also has its advantages:

• durability;
• soundproofing;
• high strength;
• resistance to moisture, burning and chemical attack;
• fast installation and affordable price.

The disadvantage of the screed is its cold surface. Such a floor must be insulated.

Regardless of the choice of floor, the technology for the implementation of both structures is laborious and requires careful work.

Do-it-yourself wooden floor

The implementation of a wooden floor has its own technology:

1. Wood preparation.
2. Framing arrangement.
3. Insulation lining.

As the bars of the subfloor, you can use wood of the second or third grade. Those sides of the bars on which the floor covering will be laid should be leveled.

There are two ways to install logs: on the floor or on the base.

According to the first method, it is necessary to lay the logs bottom strapping and make grooves in them in those places where the logs of the upper trim will spread. The depth of the grooves is equal to the width of the upper bars.

The harness must be securely installed. To do this, perform brick columns that will serve as a support for the lags.

The columns are installed on initial stage rough floor. This design also has the name columnar foundation". The technology is like this:

1. Holes are dug along the line of the overlap at the same distance from each other. Pits size: 20x20x40 mm.
2. Gravel and sand are covered with layers at the bottom, tamping well. Then lay the reinforcing mesh.
3. Pits are poured sand-cement mortar. Cement, sand and water are taken respectively in the following parts: 1:3:0.5.
4. Roofing material is laid on the hardened concrete.
5. Build brick pillars.

The distance between the lags depends on the thickness of the wood material: the thinner the timber, the closer the lags are. The stacked beams must be fixed to each other.

The device of the log "on the base" involves the removal of the top layer of soil and backfilling the surface with fine gravel. Logs with overlap are laid on the resulting base, as in the previous version.

A waterproofing film is laid on the lower base, and a layer of insulation is laid on top.

At this stage, you need to decide on the finish coat. If it's leafy chipboard material, then before laying it, it is recommended to carry out a crate of transverse bars, which are fixed on supports.

Flooring sheets are laid on the crate so that their joints are located in the center of the lintels.

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Draft concrete floor

When pouring the subfloor, flaws and irregularities are allowed.

The purpose of the rough screed is to equalize large surface differences in height and create a base for the finishing screed.

The step by step guide looks like this:

1. Determine the differences in irregularities and install beacons.
2. Prepare the base.
3. Prepare the cement mixture and pour the floor.
4. Check the condition of the tie.

First, you need to clean the surface of debris and use the level to determine the height of the screed.

Heaps serve as beacons cement mixture desired height, which are laid metallic profile. The guides are fixed with a solution. The height of the profiles is the level of the future screed.

For good adhesion of the rough screed to the base, it must be prepared. To begin with, all large depressions and cracks must be repaired with mortar. Next, the surface is primed to improve the adhesion of concrete to the base surface.

All wires will be embedded in the screed. But before pouring, all communications must be wrapped with insulating material and fixed to the base with dowels.

A damper tape must be glued along the perimeter of the room, which compensates for the deformation of the screed.

To prepare the solution, cement and sand are taken in a ratio of 1: 3. Water is added to the mixture gradually, until the consistency of sour cream is obtained. Approximately, the water consumption is 0.5 kg per 1 kg of cement-sand mixture.

Necessary tools for preparing the mortar and pouring the screed:

• shovel;
• mortar container or electric concrete mixer;
• buckets;
• overalls.

The solution is poured between the beacons and the rail - the rule distributes it. If voids form, then the mixture is reported to those places and equalized again.

The cement mixture must be prepared in small portions, as the solution quickly hardens. It is recommended to fill the floor in one day so that the surface is uniform.

When drying, the screed may shrink. To prevent this, you must take the following measures:

1. The first 3 days you can not walk on the screed.
2. Exclude drafts and direct sunlight in the room.
3. The next day after pouring, the screed must be covered with a film.

A good subfloor is a guarantee solid construction the entire room. Quality installation and strict adherence to technology will allow the foundation to serve for many decades.