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Detailed installation instructions for plasterboard partitions. Do-it-yourself drywall walls - make yourself strong and reliable structures How to twist drywall on walls

Modern "dry" building technology popular for decorating internal partitions and walls. And if earlier wood or materials based on it were mainly used for this, now drywall is leading. He also confidently pushed back plasters, which previously had no alternative when leveling the surface. And the only difficulty of this method is to correctly assemble the frame for drywall and fix it to the wall.

It is technologically very difficult to level the wall with plaster.
Given that flat wall on the horizontal and vertical level is very rare, the geometry of the room is usually very different from the ideal. Any room can be checked with a laser level, and not a single parallel pair of opposite surfaces, as well as right angles, can be found.
If you plaster without reinforcing the surface with a mesh, then the total thickness of the solution should not be more than 5 cm. And this layer can only level the wall, but not correct general geometry defects. And the drywall crate can be perfectly set, taking into account all levels and exact observance of design angles.

The process of applying plaster is also not easy. It is necessary to expose and fix the whole system of beacons, apply three layers (spray, primer, cover), level each of them and wipe. And this is without taking into account the fact that each portion must be prepared separately, and have time to use it up before the solution begins to set. And the entire wall from corner to corner must be processed in one working day so that there are no “cold” seams - otherwise a crack will appear there over time.

That is, the application of plaster requires professionalism from the performer, and plasterboard wall cladding is within the power of any “home master”.

The only drawback of the method is the reduction in the usable volume of the room. But if you do not take into account the thickness of the GCR (and it is not more than the leveling layer mortar), That we are talking about 30mm loss on each wall if use metal profiles under drywall, and 30-40 mm - when arranging a crate made of wooden beams.

Skin features

Sheathing on the crate internal walls has many advantages, the main thing is to know how to assemble the frame. One of the advantages is the possibility of hidden laying of engineering communications and installation of some equipment. But in each case, an “individual approach” is needed.
For example, in the kitchen, bathroom or lavatory, laying behind the plasterboard sheathing water pipes. And for mixers, it is necessary to provide a mortgage to which a water socket is attached. In these cases, it is necessary to make a gap between the main wall and the casing, taking into account the diameter of the pipes and the dimensions of the fittings.
Even more space is required for mounting the toilet installation - an additional frame is often made for it in the form of a “superstructure” from the general one.

Laying cables and wires does not require much space, but the standard socket box (mounting box) has a height of 45 mm. It is necessary either to retreat from the main wall to this distance, or to make a recess in concrete or brick in advance.
Another advantage is the possibility of arranging decorative niches and shelves. Moreover, niches can also carry a payload. For example, they are often made to hang a TV panel on the wall.
And for its fastening it is necessary to provide embedded elements. And this is the only drawback that can be called for a plasterboard wall - in order to hang something heavy on it, this section must be reinforced with a profile or beam, and the load must be redistributed to the frame.

Wall preparation

It is much easier to sheathe walls with drywall in a new building - a whole range of measures disappears. Therefore, below is a list of works preparatory phase wall cladding at overhaul old housing:
Depending on the wall decoration - dismantled old skin, remove wallpaper, clean crumbling areas of plaster.
Inspect the surface for cracks and crevices. If any are found, they must be repaired with a repair compound. For bricks, foam blocks and concrete, these are polymer-sand mixtures, polyurethane foam or sealants. Such measures are necessary to improve the thermal insulation of external walls and the soundproofing properties of internal partitions.

After de-energizing the network, remove the wall lighting, switches and sockets, insulate bare wires. If cables are to be replaced, they are dismantled up to the junction boxes.
Porous and weak surfaces are treated with a deep penetration strengthening primer, wooden walls with an antiseptic composition.

Marking for frame installation

When you just need to level the walls, without arranging niches, installations or laying pipes, then the loss of usable volume can be minimized. For surfaces with minor “relief” defects, minimal deviations from the horizontal and vertical levels, there is a way to fix drywall to the wall without crate.
This is a standard technology for fixing plates with glue, which is applied to the wrong side either evenly (with a notched trowel) or in a strip along the perimeter and “cakes” on the rest.

In other cases, the installation of the crate is necessary, and marking is needed for its installation. When working with "volumetric" structures, it is better to use laser level but you can do it the traditional way.

To do this, you will need the following tools:

• building corner;
• roulette;
• plumb;
• level;
• chopping cord;
• ordinary twine;
• pencil.

The process itself looks like this:
Find the most prominent area on the surface. And if this is not an influx or swelling of plaster that can be cut off, then such a place is taken as a starting point. From it, stepping back a little from the wall, with the help of a plumb line, the projection of “zero” is transferred to the floor. The same mark is made on the ceiling. Therefore, a small gap is needed so that the plumb line does not “cling” to the wall. They beat off the first line on the floor, check its perpendicularity to the adjacent walls. Stepping back a certain distance along the edges, mark the following points. Transfer their projections to the ceiling.
Parallel to the bottom beat off the top line.
If the entire room is sheathed with drywall, this algorithm is used to mark all walls. In this case, you can make the geometry of the room correct. For a square or rectangle, the easiest way is to check if the diagonals are equal and, if necessary, adjust the markup so that the corners are right and the lines are parallel.

Then the verticals are “beaten off” for the installation of direct suspensions, with the help of which the profiles are fastened to the wall. To do this, on the floor and ceiling, stepping back from the angle of about 10 cm, lay points on both lines in increments of 60 cm and transfer them to the wall. This dimension is a multiple of the width of the drywall sheet of 120 cm, and it provides a central stiffener, and the seams will lie exactly in the middle of the vertical elements of the crate. The resulting marks are connected by lines.
After that, you can proceed to the installation of the frame.

Frame installation

There are two options for how to fix drywall to the wall using the crate:
modern technology using metal profiles;
the classic way of sheathing planes using a wooden beam.

Metallic profile

In order to save usable volume, the crate for wall cladding is made of CD ceiling metal profiles, the height of which is only 28 mm, and the size of the mounting shelf is 60 mm. They are paired with UD guides, with a base width of 28 mm and a height of 27 mm.

Note. This is not the only item in the Knauf range with such small profile dimensions. There are also U-shaped elastic tires for "small-sized" drywall sheathing of flat wooden planes. They are used as crates for attics or false ceilings. And if the task is to finish the walls of timber or frame house using drywall (for example, tiles, decorative plaster or wallpaper for painting) - this is one of the best options.

In addition to these "branded" CD and UD profiles with a metal thickness of 0.6 mm, domestic producers produce their counterparts with thinner walls - 0.45-0.55 mm. This, of course, leads to a decrease in strength, but the sheathing is not a partition, and the connection with the main wall will provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.

The only condition is that when mounting a frame from such a metal profile on a wall, reduce the pitch of the attachment points by 20%. There are also economic systems. These are sets of analogues of the UD guide profile with a width of 17 mm, and a rack CD with a width of 47 mm. They are specially produced for wall cladding of small rooms - toilets, bathrooms and dressing rooms.

Installation of a frame made of metal profiles

First, guide profiles for drywall are attached to the floor and ceiling. Dowels (or anchors) are selected depending on the nature of the materials, the pitch of the fixation points is 40-60 cm.

Advice. To reduce the level of structural noise, the guides to the surface are mounted with a gasket made of soundproof tape 30 mm wide.

Then you need to attach direct suspensions to the walls. The vertical layout step is 80-100 cm. To place a standard height, 3 pieces are enough.
CD profiles are inserted between the guides, attached to the suspensions, the level is checked and finally fixed from above and below.

Lengths drywall sheet from the standard row may not be enough to cover a section of the wall from floor to ceiling with one piece. Therefore, from above and below, alternately, additional jumpers are attached between the racks so that the seam of the whole sheet and the additional piece of GKL falls in the middle of this profile.

The offset of the layout is necessary so that the horizontal joints do not converge in one line and do not form an X-shaped intersection with the vertical ones. Example: if the length of the sheet is 200 cm, then in the first span an additional rib is mounted at this distance from the floor, and in the second - from the ceiling.

wooden beam

Drywall installation on wooden frame meets the conditions of dry rooms. The recommended size of the beam section is 40x60 mm. This thickness is sufficient to support the weight of the GCR. And the width - to ensure the recommended location of the attachment points relative to the ends of the sheet (10mm) and the edges of the timber (20mm).

Otherwise, the wooden frame has a standard device - the distances between the posts and lintels are the same as between the profiles. Only the ways of attaching the elements to each other differ. For this, perforated steel corners are usually used so that all the components of the crate are located in the same plane.

19418 0 7

How to install drywall on the wall yourself - 4 stages of rough wall finishing

To date, drywall is one of the most popular types of materials intended for interior construction and interior decoration of residential and commercial premises. However, not everyone knows how to properly mount drywall on walls, so in this article I want to pay more attention technical description this simple process.

Classification of drywall sheets

Gypsum board is a composite sheet finishing material, which consists of two outer layers thick cardboard, and an internal intermediate layer of mineral gypsum aggregate.

The composite structure of the sheet provides this material with high rigidity and sufficient strength, and the outer layer of the cardboard forms a uniform matte surface, which can be considered an ideal basis for applying the finishing coating (acrylic paint, decorative plaster, wallpapers, etc.).

Depending on the raw materials and mineral components used, all drywall sheets can be conditionally divided into several types:

1. The usual drywall sheet for general construction works has the nomenclature name GKL. It is designed for interior decoration of ceilings and walls, as well as for the construction of light interior partitions in residential and office space with normal room temperature and relative air humidity not more than 70%. The outer cardboard covering of such sheets has grey colour, and the factory lettering is dark blue;
2. Moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard with the nomenclature name GKLV is intended for finishing walls and ceilings indoors with normal temperatures and high humidity. To increase moisture resistance, the outer coating of such sheets is made of special impregnated cardboard, and antifungal additives with silicon particles are introduced into the gypsum aggregate. For visual distinction, the outer surface of the GKLV has a light green color, and the factory marking is applied in dark blue;

1. Fire-resistant drywall sheets have the nomenclature designation GKLO, and are characterized by increased resistance to short-term exposure to direct open flame or high temperature. Such qualities are achieved by introducing non-combustible reinforcing fibers into the composition of the gypsum core, and by impregnating the outer cardboard with a flame retardant composition. The outer coating of fire-resistant sheets has the usual gray color, and the factory lettering is applied in red;
2. Moisture-proof fire-resistant drywall is designated as GKLVO, and simultaneously combines all the technical characteristics and performance of GKLO and GKLV, respectively. Such material has a rather narrow scope, since its price is significantly higher than the cost of other types of drywall. In order not to be confused with other sheets, its surface is painted light green color, and the letter factory marking is applied in red.

Despite the fact that GKLV is considered moisture resistant, it cannot long time resist direct contact with water, so it cannot be installed outdoors, or used for finishing wet rooms with direct water on the walls and ceiling (shower room, washing room or steam room in the bath).
The same warning applies to GKLO: despite its fire resistance, I strongly do not recommend using this material in conditions of prolonged exposure to high temperatures or direct contact with an open flame.

The working process

Stage 1: selection and calculation of materials

The calculation of the required number of drywall sheets should be carried out based on the net area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls in the room. To calculate the net area of ​​each individual wall, you must first multiply its length by its height. Then, in the same way, calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindow and doorways on this wall (if any). After that, from total area walls must be subtracted from the resulting area of ​​the door and window openings, and get the net area of ​​the wall.

The table shows the technical characteristics of drywall sheets.

When calculating the amount of materials, it should be borne in mind that the width of any drywall sheet is always 1200 mm, and its standard length can be 2000 mm, 2500 mm, 2700 mm or 3000 mm. It should also be taken into account that in the process of work there are always trimmings, and some part of the material goes into marriage, therefore, when buying drywall and all components for its installation, you need to lay a small margin (5-8%).

Based on the classification of drywall sheets discussed in the previous section, when choosing a specific type of drywall, I advise you to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. For wall decoration in living and sleeping areas of a private house or apartment (bedroom, nursery, living room, corridor), you can use any of the above types of drywall. In the same time, I recommend using ordinary GCR for these purposes, since it has a lower cost;

1. When performing repairs in rooms with a high level of air humidity (toilet, bathroom, unheated attic or veranda), I advise you not to save money and buy a moisture-resistant drywall GKLV. In addition to the fact that it does not collapse under the influence of moisture, its surface is less susceptible to the formation and development of mold;
2. For the interior decoration of the walls of a home heating station, an autonomous boiler room, an electrical switchboard, and other rooms with a possible short-term increase in temperature or the appearance of an open flame, it is best to use fire-resistant GKLO. This material can also be used for outdoor decorative design stoves and fireplaces, provided that a non-combustible insulation made of mineral wool;
3. GKLVO is more intended for industrial use, but it can also be used in a private house. For example, it is well suited for lining a smoke channel in an unheated attic, or for lining walls around a furnace door. sauna stove in a damp cold dressing room;
4. To install drywall on a supporting frame, you will need to purchase a galvanized metal profile of two types, straight remote brackets, docking "crabs" and metal screws with a hat in the sweat;

1. The horizontal profile "UD" or "PNP" with a section of 28x27 mm is mounted one at the bottom, at the level of the finished floor, and the second at the top, under the very ceiling. The total length of the whips of such a profile should be equal to the double perimeter of the room;
2. Rack profile "CD" "PP" with a section of 27x60 mm is installed vertically from floor to ceiling over the entire wall area, with a step of 600 mm. To find out the total number of such a profile in meters for one wall, you need to divide its length by 0.4, and multiply by the height of the room;
3. When calculating the number of remote brackets, it should be assumed that each rack profile must be mounted on 4-5 brackets;
4. It is difficult to name the number of self-tapping screws offhand, so for a start you can purchase 300-500 pieces, and if necessary, buy more;
5. If you plan to sew walls using frameless technology, then for this you will need to buy a special construction adhesive for drywall. Its consumption per 1 m² of wall area can be viewed on the factory packaging.

The standard thickness of drywall sheets can be 6mm, 9.5mm or 12.5mm. Most thin sheets lend themselves well to bending in an arc, therefore they are used for the manufacture of curly interior details. Medium sheets 9.5 mm thick have no big weight, so they are used when sewing ceilings. For wall decoration, I recommend using sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm, since a lot of weight is not critical for them, and they have the greatest strength.

Stage. 2: preparing tools for work

For installation work, you will need a standard set household tools, which should be in the household of any home master. Below I will give a list of them, but it will need to be adjusted independently, depending on which mounting method is more suitable for you.

1. To install a metal load-bearing frame you will need an electric puncher with a set of drills from 6 to 10 mm, a hacksaw or scissors for metal, a grinder with cutting discs for metal and cordless screwdriver;

1. If you opted for a wooden frame, then for its manufacture you will need the same tools, only instead of a grinder and a hacksaw, you need to use an electric cut-off saw or hand saw on wood;
2. When attaching drywall to the supporting frame, you will need to tighten a large number of self-tapping screws. To completely mechanize this process, I recommend using a special screwdriver nozzle, which automatically feeds the screws into the screw head;
3. For frameless mounting drywall on the wall, the adhesive solution will have to be prepared by hand, directly at the installation site. To do this, you will need a metal or plastic container with a volume of 10-12 liters, as well as a construction mixer or a nozzle on a drill for preparing dry building mixtures;

1. From hand tools you will need a sharp construction knife with interchangeable blades, a medium hammer, curly and flat screwdrivers, as well as a small hand planer for cutting the edges of the sheets.
2. From the measuring tools you will need a large square, a tape measure at least 5 m long, a laser or liquid building level, a building cord, a rope plumb line and a thin marker or pencil;
3. To work at height, it is convenient to use an ordinary household stepladder. Its height should be such that a person can freely reach the ceiling with his half-bent arm..

If you prefer frameless installation of drywall to the wall with mounting foam, then I advise you to buy it in large metal cylinders, since it will be much cheaper in such a package. To work with such cylinders, you will need a special gun that allows you to accurately dose the supply and consumption of mounting foam.

Stage 3: production and installation of the supporting frame

Before starting work, you need to completely free the room from the furniture, and remove the old coating from the wall. If you plan to lay hidden electrical wiring, heating pipes or other communications behind drywall, then this must be done in advance, before mounting the supporting frame on the wall.

Next, I will talk about how to independently install the GKL on the wall with the installation metal frame. For those who find it more convenient to mount a wooden frame, I must say that it is made according to the same principle as a metal one, only instead of profiles, wooden bars with a section of at least 50x50 mm are used.

1. After preparing the surface of the walls, first of all, you need to mount the upper and lower horizontal guide profiles around the entire perimeter of the room;

1. The lower U-shaped profile "UD" must be laid on the floor, and fixed with self-tapping screws parallel to the wall, along a stretched building cord;
2. The upper U-shaped profile must be fixed in the same way around the entire perimeter to the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the plumb line lowered from the longitudinal center line of the upper profile passes exactly through the longitudinal center line of the lower profile. This will allow in the future to install the plasterboard wall strictly vertically;
3. If the main walls in the room are not very curved, and the lower and upper horizontal profiles are fixed almost close to the wall, then the vertical rack profiles can also be attached directly to the walls;

1. If the walls in the room are curved, and the horizontal profiles are fixed at a large distance from the wall, then for fastening the vertical rack profiles, you will need to use U-shaped remote brackets;
2. To do this, starting from one of the corners, on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room, from floor to ceiling, you need to draw vertical straight lines with a step of exactly 600 mm between them;
3. In each corner of the room, and on each drawn line, 4-5 brackets must be fixed so that the distance from the bottom bracket to the floor, and the distance from the top bracket to the ceiling is 500 mm. The distance between two adjacent brackets should be about 800-1000 mm;
4. Cut the rack profile into the required number of identical segments, the length of which should be equal to the height of the room from the level of the finished floor to the ceiling;

1. Install each segment vertically between the legs of the U-shaped holders, bring the lower and upper ends inside the lower and upper horizontal profile, and fix it to its side walls with self-tapping screws;
2. Next, it must be leveled strictly vertically, and fixed to the side legs of each bracket with two self-tapping screws. Cut the protruding legs with a grinder or metal shears, flush with the front plane of the rack profile;
3. In the same way, you need to mount rack profiles around the perimeter of each door and window opening;
4. Having thus installed all the vertical racks, you need to tie them together with transverse horizontal jumpers from the same profile;

For mounting jumpers, it is convenient to use special “crab” connectors that allow you to join two identical profiles at right angles in the same plane; When installing horizontal jumpers, it should be assumed that the distance between their axes should be within 600-800 mm;

Stage 4: fixing drywall sheets

The technology of mounting drywall on walls is quite simple, however, given that the sheets are large in size and quite heavy, installation work It is more convenient to perform together with a partner. When buying material, it is better to choose such sheet sizes so that it can be installed vertically from floor to ceiling without transverse joints.

1. You need to start installing drywall on the walls from one of the corners of the room. From my experience, I can say that at first it is better to sew up those walls on which the window and front door are located;

1. each sheet must be cut in height to size in place so that it freely, but without gaps, enters the space between the base of the floor and the ceiling;
2. The first sheet can be rested with the bottom side on the floor, and installed in the very corner. At the same time, it is important to control the level so that it is installed strictly vertically in two planes, and its outer side edge runs exactly along the center line of the vertical profile;
3. After making sure that it is in its place, one person should hold it with his hands from displacement, and his partner should fix the drywall to the supporting frame with self-tapping screws in the sweat with a step of 160-210 mm between them;
4. First you need to wrap the screws in vertical profile along the entire perimeter of the sheet, and then in several places in the middle, into horizontal transverse bridges;

1. When tightening the self-tapping screws, it is necessary to set the force limiter on the screwdriver so that the cap does not destroy the drywall, and is recessed below the surface of the plate by no more than 1 mm;
2. The next sheet must be installed on the floor in the same way, and pressed with its side edge to the end of the first sheet. After that, make sure that it is installed strictly vertically, it must also be fixed with self-tapping screws;
3. When you reach a door or window opening, one person should put a whole sheet on the place where it should be installed, and his partner at the back of the sheet should draw a cutout for this opening;
4. Next, from this sheet, you need to cut a window opening along the drawn line, and fix it to the wall in exactly the same way. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that cleaning of windows and door slopes performed last, after sewing all the walls;

1. After the drywall is mounted, you need to putty all the fixing screws and joints between the sheets. So that in the future the joints do not disperse from vibration and temperature changes, in the process of puttying they must be reinforced with serpentine glass mesh;
2. After hardening and drying of the starting layer, the surface should be sanded with a medium-grained emery cloth (P80-P100), and if necessary, apply another finishing layer putties;
3. Finally, the surface should be sanded again with a finer sandpaper (P80-P100), then dusted off, and coated with one coat of interior penetrating primer.

In order to increase the heat and sound insulation of the room, in the space between the main wall and the drywall sheets, I recommend laying a mineral wool-based roll insulation. For the same purposes, before mounting drywall on the wall, a vibration-proof foam rubber tape must be glued to the front plane of the supporting frame along the entire length.

Frameless installation of drywall sheets

The GKL installation technology described above helps to remove visible building defects from the eyes, and allows you to level even the most crooked walls, but it has one significant drawback. The fact is that the metal profile of the supporting frame itself has a certain thickness, and in some cases, it has to be installed at a considerable distance from the main wall. In the end, after plasterboarding the walls, the room slightly decreases in volume. If this is not so critical for a room with a large area, then in small room such a difference can be very noticeable.

To make the most of the usable space, below will be suggested step-by-step instruction, in which I will describe three simple ways of frameless installation of drywall for fine finish walls in small spaces.

1. The easiest way is to glue the sheet to the wall with a special drywall adhesive, which is sold under the brand name "Perlfix". It is produced in the form of a dry construction mixture, and is prepared directly at the place of work. It should be borne in mind that the installation of GKL on glue is allowed with a deviation from the vertical or wall irregularities from 5 to 20 mm.

• First you need to cut all the sheets of drywall into the desired size, try on each of them in its place, then number it and put it aside;
• Treat the cleaned wall and the back plane of each drywall sheet with a special water-based penetrating primer;

• After the primer has dried, apply glue to the back in one of two ways. If the irregularities on the wall are from 5 to 10 mm, it is necessary to apply continuous strips of glue around the perimeter and in the middle, and then smooth and remove its remains with a notched trowel;
• With a depth of unevenness on the wall up to 20 mm, the adhesive must be applied with large round cakes with a diameter of 100-150 mm, along the perimeter and in the middle of the sheet, at a distance of 200-300 mm between them.
• After applying the adhesive layer, each sheet must be pressed against the wall, leveled, and fixed in a fixed position until the adhesive begins to set.

1. If in some places the curvature of the walls reaches 50 mm, for gluing sheets it is necessary to use linings in the form of strips of drywall scraps 150-180 mm wide.

• The strips must be fixed horizontally along the entire length of the wall at a distance of 500-600 mm between them, using the same glue or long self-tapping screws;
• In those places where there are deep dips and depressions on the wall, plasterboard linings must be placed under each strip, and thus align them in a vertical and horizontal plane;
• As in the first case, drywall must be cut to size, and its reverse side and strips should be treated with a penetrating primer;
• Lubricate each strip thickly with adhesive, level it with a notched trowel, then install a drywall sheet in its place, pressing it evenly over the entire area;
• For reliable fixation, several self-tapping screws can be screwed into each strip, directly through the front surface of the sheet.

1. For gluing drywall to wooden walls, you can use an ordinary mounting foam in metal containers. After hardening, it has some elasticity, which reduces the likelihood of cracking or deformation of the sheets in the process of shrinkage or swelling of wood.

• The surface of wood in a confined space is prone to mold, therefore, before installation, the entire wall area and the back side of the sheets must be impregnated twice with an antiseptic penetrating primer;
• Fix each sheet of drywall to the wall at a small offset (5-10 mm) by screwing it in several places with self-tapping screws through spacers or wide washers;
• Drill evenly around the perimeter and over the entire area of ​​the sheet through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm at a distance of 300-400 mm between them;

• Insert a plastic tube from the gun into each hole in turn, and blow out an equal amount of mounting foam;
• In order to evenly dose the injection of foam into all holes, I advise you to count each pull of the trigger mounting gun by seconds;
• The remnants of mounting foam protruding from the hole do not need to try to catch and push back. After hardening, it is easy to cut it with a knife flush with the front plane of the drywall and sand it with a fine emery cloth.

For gluing drywall, I recommend choosing a mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion. Otherwise, in the process of solidification, it can significantly increase in volume, and form on plasterboard wall local bumps and irregularities.

Conclusion

Despite all its advantages, the described methods of frameless installation of drywall have three common disadvantages. Firstly, adhesive fastening of sheets can only be used if the walls in the room are relatively even and do not have obvious construction defects, and the deviation from the vertical and height differences are no more than 50 mm.

Secondly, this installation method does not allow heat and sound insulation materials to be laid between drywall and the main wall. And thirdly, this wall covering it is impossible to dismantle without destroying the drywall.

More detailed visual instruction on installing drywall on walls can be seen in the video presented in this article, and if after watching you have questions, I suggest discussing them together in the comment form.

October 28, 2016

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Construction work requires a special approach. Each owner has his own preferences regarding how this or that design will look. Among the most popular materials for finishing, special attention should be paid to drywall. It has been used in construction for over 100 years, but even today drywall is an indispensable part of any repair. Therefore, many have the question of how to do it yourself. The thing is that laying drywall on a wall, ceiling, etc. very simple. However, if all the work is planned to be done by hand, some subtleties must be taken into account.

Drywall today is actively used for leveling walls indoors.

Preparation for laying on the surface of the drywall wall

On this stage you need to perform the following steps: prepare materials and a set of tools that will be needed in the process; make possible free access to structures that need finishing; prepare the wall surfaces themselves.

What you need to know when purchasing materials.

1. The selection of materials consists in the purchase the right amount building material for installation. In addition, before laying the GKL on the plane of the wall, it is necessary to purchase drywall, metal profiles or wooden slats to build the frame structure, fasteners (dowel-nails, self-tapping screws).
2. In addition, it is necessary to consider some of the nuances regarding the amount of material purchased. Drywall is often sold in sheets 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. Therefore, it is required to consider the required number of drywall sheets, given their dimensions.
3. When buying a GKL, one must take into account the estimated place of its installation and make an order for the material expediently according to the technical data (normal, moisture resistant, fire resistant, etc.). If drywall will be used for the false panels of the fireplace, it is better to buy heat-insulating materials in addition.
4. If we consider the materials for the construction of the skeleton, most often they use guide profiles and rack profiles for this. In addition, all available parts for connection, crosses, mounting hangers, self-tapping screws for metal can be useful.

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Tool preparation

Before you start laying drywall yourself, you need to prepare the tools for the job. As a rule, it is recommended to use the following devices:

• screwdriver or electric drill with a bit for self-tapping screws;
• hammer;
• perforator;
• mounting knife;
• metal scissors.

When preparing primary wall planes, it is necessary to have free access to the object in order to clean all easily peeling materials from the wall plane and correct deformed surfaces.

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Drawing markings in the room

Before you start laying drywall, mark the installation sites for finishing materials. At the same time, it is necessary to treat this action with the greatest responsibility in order to simplify the process of laying drywall and reduce the number of GKL consumed.

They make the markup in the following gradation:

1. Moving away from the primary plane of the wall to the distance necessary for laying the heat insulator and communications, holes are drilled in the ceiling for screws at the end corners (points) of the wall.
2. Then plumb lines are attached to the screws, and at those points where they touch the floor, fasteners are also attached (but only to the floor plane). Then, placing a single thread between the screws on the ceiling and the same thread between the screws on the floor, mark the primary lines that will show the fastening positions of the profiles for the supporting frame.
3. All other walls of the room are marked in the same way. Screws and chopping cords are removed after all markings are drawn, and then proceed to the next phase.

In order to put drywall on the wall surface with the greatest efficiency, the following tips should be followed when marking:

1. It is necessary to use a plumb line or building level.
2. Retreat at such a distance from the wall surface in order to occupy as little free space as possible in the room, but at the same time install GKL without any problems.
3. Marking is carried out on the surfaces of the walls to indicate the installation location of the profile racks. This is done by using special dyes or with a pencil. The marking is carried out in vertical segments with a distance of 40 or 60 cm (so that the edges of the sheets that are interconnected lie on one profile rack).

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Construction of a supporting frame for mounting drywall

Profile guides are mounted along the pre-marked marking lines to the plane of the ceiling and floor, for which, as a rule, a puncher is used. Proper holes are drilled in the floor and ceiling planes and dowel-nails are installed there. And profiles are attached to them with the help of screws. It is important to take into account here that the strength of the entire structure depends on the accuracy of this operation. Therefore, the distance between the fasteners for fixing the profile guides is taken in the range from 40 cm to 60 cm (depending on the calculated load on the plane of the walls of the drywall sheets).

At the next stage, the profile guides are mounted to the planes of the walls in the same way, measuring them between the lower and upper systems profile guides. In other words, the process must be executed in such a way that all profile guides are located in the same plane.

The next step, using markings perpendicular to the floor, hangers for mounting are attached to the wall surfaces, which will later fix the profile racks, giving supernumerary rigidity to the entire structure. Their installation is also done using dowel-nails, but it will be important to follow the advice:

1. Hangers should be placed on each marking line with a distance between them of no more than 0.6 m.
2. When placing mounting fasteners on rows that are adjacent, make a deviation to increase the expected rigidity of the frame foundation.
3. When building an arch from drywall sheets, use additional perforation objects.

After that, the profile racks are attached to the frame. To do this, they are threaded into the cavities of the lower and upper profile guides and screwed at the connection points using self-tapping screws not only to the guide profiles, but also to straight hangers, and the ends that come out are bent into inside frame.

When carrying out this action, it may be necessary to increase or trim the profile racks, since they must coincide in length with the surfaces of the walls. Thus, an increase in racks can be made using special combiners and self-tapping screws, while cutting off excess parts can be done using ordinary scissors for cutting metal.

All surfaces requiring finishing should be equipped in a similar way. In this case, it should be taken into account that in order to increase the strength and improve the installation of drywall sheets, it is recommended to install profiles perpendicular to the longitudinal sheets, attaching them to them using fasteners.

Drywall is increasingly used in interior decoration. Walls and ceilings are remarkably aligned with this building material, arches and partitions are created. Using GKL, if you do not save money, you will significantly benefit in the speed of repairs and the quality of surface leveling. Drywall is a material that can be used to finish almost any cladding.

Disadvantages of drywall

GKL also has disadvantages that do not allow it to become the undisputed leader in the building materials market. The disadvantages of drywall are as follows:

• ceiling and can be equipped in fairly dry rooms (the ability of moisture-resistant panels to resist moisture is rather doubtful);
• after installing the GKL on the ceiling and walls, the room becomes lower and narrower, which is not so noticeable in spacious and high rooms, but is critical for small rooms with low ceilings;
• drywall is far from a durable building material (although the reverse side of the coin of this indicator is the ease of its processing).

Nevertheless, insulation can be placed in the space of the crate on which the sheets are attached, and various communications can be hidden under the plasterboard lining.

After weighing the pros and cons, you can choose the building material that best suits your requirements, but if you decide, then in order to get a quality result, you need to follow the recommendations that will be given below.

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Frameless GKL fastening technology

Method without the use of metal or wooden crate just useful for the repair of small rooms. In this case, the area loss will be minimal. True, panels can be installed on walls that do not require or almost do not require preliminary alignment.

The surfaces themselves for gluing with plasterboard panels are prepared as follows.

Figure 1. Scheme of the U-shaped suspension device.

1. All objects and electrical wiring connectors are removed from the repaired surface.
2. The walls are cleared of old finish, including paints, since adhesives do not interact well with it.
3. The plane and verticality of the walls are checked by the level and the rule. Noticeable protrusions are knocked off (with a chisel, a construction hammer, a chisel or a perforator). The cavities are sealed with a solution after cleaning the surface of dust and moistening it.
4. The walls are impregnated with a primer, which will improve the adhesion of surfaces.
5. After the impregnation has dried, a gypsum putty for plasterboard or plasterboard glue is applied to the contact side of the drywall. The putty is used on walls with small irregularities, and the adhesive composition is used for level differences up to 4-5 cm. It should be emphasized that the irregularities should not be large in area (their dimensions should not exceed 20 x 20 cm). Mixtures for gluing GKL are applied along the perimeter of the slab and in several strips along its vertical. Sometimes the glue is laid on the sheet with "cakes" with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 3-5 cm every 20-25 cm.
6. Laying starts from one of the corners of the room.
7. The sheet is pressed against the wall. Its position is checked by plumb and level. You can correct the plate by pressing it in the right place with the palm of your hand or by lightly hitting it with a rubber mallet.

You can improve the quality of adhesion of drywall to the wall by attaching a plastic reinforcing mesh to the latter. It is attached to the wall with dowel-nails every 25-30 cm. After that, a thick adhesive mixture is applied to the primed surface with a brush or roller, and the mesh is pressed into it with a spatula.

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Installation of drywall on the frame

Figure 2. Scheme of fastening the GKL to the crate.

Frame technology for mounting GKL is more common. Wooden bars are sometimes used as a crate, but metal profiles serve as the main material for the frame. With their help (of course, taking into account the losses in the space of the room), you can level any walls. For attaching profiles to the surface and adjusting their position, there are U-shaped suspensions (Fig. 1).

Guide profiles are attached to the ceiling and floor. Their position relative to each other is checked by a plumb line. Profiles must be in the same vertical plane. CW profiles are installed in the guide profiles. They must be mounted strictly vertically. The distance between the centers of neighboring CWs should be 60 cm. With this step, U-shaped pieces are also attached to the wall. The last vertical profile is attached 20 cm from the corner. The bottom row of U-shaped suspensions is 30 cm from the floor. The vertical step between them is 60 cm. You can use horizontal jumpers to strengthen the frame. Of course, the profile is installed around the perimeter of window and door openings. The frame elements are connected with self-tapping screws 3 x 9.5.

On fig. 2 shows how the GCR is attached to the crate. Please note that the height of the walls here is greater than the length of the drywall sheet.

In this case, the horizontal joints of sheets in adjacent rows should not be at the same level, as this will weaken the wall.

Figure 3. Scheme of mounting the joints of drywall sheets.

In addition, the joints of the plasterboard should not coincide with the perimeter lines of window and door openings. They must be located at a distance of at least 30 cm from the latter (in Fig. 3, the red dotted line marks the lines along which GKL joints cannot be arranged). It must be added that when changing the dimensions of the drywall inserts, it is necessary to make adjustments to the installation of the profiles.

GKL is easy to process, so it can be cut with a construction knife or a hacksaw. After cutting, the edge of the sheet is processed with a bar covered with sandpaper. It must be sanded so that when the sheets are joined, the seam looks like an expanding to outside grooves (then it will be easier to putty).

As already mentioned, drywall is a fragile material. Its installation must be approached responsibly:

• it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws 3 x 25;
• fasteners must be screwed strictly perpendicular to the sheet of building material;
• the heads of the self-tapping screws should be somewhat recessed into it, at the same time try not to break through the outer cardboard layer;
• if the screw “failed”, step back 5 cm and screw in another;
• self-tapping screws are screwed into the gypsum board in increments of no more than 25 cm in the central part of the panel and no more than 15 cm along the edges of the sheet;
• it is better not to screw the screws near the corners, the minimum distance from the corner to the nearest self-tapping screw should be 5 cm;
• the distance from the screwing point of the fastener to the edge of the drywall should not be less than 1 cm.

Sheathing the surface with gypsum boards is the installation of drywall. This is perhaps the most fast way level the surface, and for sure, the most inexpensive. This the process is underway before finishing- that is, plastering, painting, wallpapering will be after the walls are sheathed with drywall.

To mount the sheets correctly, you will need certain tools and equipment. If something is not there, you will have to buy it, borrow it from friends or rent it. But do not try to save money and do without something: the installation process will not be so comfortable and the work may be delayed.

What you need to install drywall:

• Laser level;
• Level;
• Plumb;
• Pencil;
• Roulette;
• Coloring lace.

These tools are needed for marking.

To make the frame, you will need a puncher, a hammer, a grinder, pliers, metal shears, a screwdriver. Well, to work with drywall sheets, you will need a hacksaw, a rail, a planer and a sharp knife.

You also need to worry about the quality sealing of holes from screws, corners and joints of drywall boards. To do this, you will need spatulas, containers for creating mixtures, and another grater with sandpaper. Rollers and brushes also come in handy.

What options are there: drywall installation technology

IN modern technology installation of drywall sheets, there are two main methods - this is a frameless (adhesive) version and a frame method.

It cannot be said that some method is many times better, if you do not break the rules and choose the method that is optimal in this particular situation, then the result will be equally good.

Frameless way of laying plasterboard:

• For this method, the wall covering should not exfoliate, it can be dry and dust-free, as well as unpainted. oil paint or enamel;
• Thermal insulation and the adhesive method do not exist together, therefore insulation is possible only with foam;
• And the advantage frameless method is that it provides excellent soundproofing against structure-borne noise, you don't need a lot of tools, and there isn't that much distance from the face to the base.

The frame method, as you might guess, involves sheathing over a frame, most often a metal one. This method is suitable for more complex work if you create multilevel ceiling or, for example, an arch. Despite the complexity of the process, the execution instructions themselves will not be daunting.

Marking for drywall: GKL installation

Surface marking is a mandatory step. Don't make the fatal mistake of jumping over this repair point. There is a certain markup sequence, which, as they say, has its own secrets.

The marking of the walls is carried out as follows:

• Measure a distance of 5 cm from the corner, draw a vertical line on the adjoining wall;
• On opposite wall draw a line in the same way, and using the usual long rail, connect these lines on the floor and on the ceiling;
• Then mark vertical lines from the corner of the wall at a distance of about 60 cm, and then make marks in a checkerboard pattern every half a meter - this will become a place for mounting the mounting suspension;
• Mark the horizontal level of the room - with a hydraulic level, but better laser level; in internal and outside corners make small marks, in each corner measure the distance from these little pictures to the ceiling, and make a mark with the value of this distance.

The last action is necessary in order to find the lowest point of the ceiling. And this is important, because frame mounting the ceiling will drop at least 4 cm from its lowest point. The found height should be noted in each corner, and all the resulting marks are connected, getting the horizontal level of the room.

How to cut correctly: how to install drywall

You need to first mark the drywall sheet, then cut one paper layer along the marked line with a well-sharpened knife. Then break the sheet to break plaster base along the cut. Hold the two halves of the sheet at a right angle, with reverse side cut through the paper.

You will probably have uneven ends, paper will stick out - this is corrected by a drywall planer or a grater with sandpaper. As a result, you will receive a piece of drywall sheet right size with smooth, clean edges.

Frame method: drywall, do-it-yourself installation

After installing the metal frame, you can proceed to. Both for walls and for the ceiling, one method of fastening will be valid. It is necessary to attach the sheet closely to the finished frame so that one edge of the plate is located close to the wall. Drywall sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws to the profile.

Very important:

• When performing work, deepen the self-tapping screw so that the top does not protrude, but at the same time there was no very deep fit of the fastener;
• When the cardboard top layer breaks, the fastener will relax;
• The interval between the screws is approximately 25 cm;
• If the height of your ceilings is greater than the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet, you will have to fix the intermediate profile.

All parts of the sheet must be fixed, otherwise the junction will certainly crack. In this case, start the subsequent panels in a checkerboard pattern with a run-up according to the scheme: a whole slab from below - a cut from above - vice versa. So you can achieve the reliability of the entire structure.

Seam processing: drywall, work on the nuances

When the installation is completed, process the joints of the sheets and putty the recesses from the fasteners. For processing joints, a gypsum mixture is usually used - when it dries, it forms a durable material. Chamfered edges must be primed.

Next - stick a reinforcing mesh on all joints with the factory edge. If one or both edges of the sheet come with a chamfer, the mesh must be cut along the chamfer, preventing it from going out of plane. The reinforcing mesh should always be in the middle of the putty.

Approximately 60% of the total volume of the recess is filled with the first layer of putty, then the mesh is immersed in putty and smoothed. And then the remaining volume of the recess is filled. Do not forget to putty the recess from the screws too. Don't worry if you see the putty shrink a little after drying - this is normal. Well, already finishing putty you will finish the recesses.

The process of installing drywall (video)

Standard installation of drywall can be done using video tutorials, which show all the details of the process - from the "acclimatization" of drywall to the installation of a junction box. The adhesive method is used less frequently, but the wireframe method allows you to correct the problem of any curvature of surfaces, and the field of application of this method is much wider.

Happy repair!