Visually align the ceiling in an unusual way. Simple leveling of the ceiling with putty for finishing. Features of leveling the ceiling with putty
Almost all apartment owners know the situation with uneven ceilings. This is especially true for Khrushchev. This is mainly due to the differences in the height of the plates at the joints. This article describes in detail how to level the ceiling with your own hands in Khrushchev or in any other apartment.
Required Tools
Before starting work, you need to decide on a set of tools. Their number directly depends on the method of leveling the ceiling. There are two methods: dry and wet. This article will cover the wet method in detail, so you will need the following minimum set of tools:
- hydraulic level or laser level
- roulette
- chopping cord
- spatulas (one 100 mm wide, the other 300-500 mm wide)
- rule
- maklavitsa and paint roller
- drill with mixer attachment
- grinding grater
Step by step instructions for leveling the ceiling
The first thing to do is determine how uneven your ceiling is. To do this, you need to find the lowest corner of the room. From this corner, the remaining four (or more) corners of the room are departed using a hydraulic level or, if available, laser level. For this and many subsequent operations, an assistant is needed.
Further, with the help of a chopping cord, ceiling level lines are drawn along the walls. If the maximum difference between the lowest and highest point of the ceiling does not exceed 50 mm, wet leveling can be done. The term wet method refers to leveling the ceiling with plaster and putty.
Ceiling needs to be cleaned old plaster, wallpaper or paint (depending on the previous coating). All putties, fungi, etc. should be carefully removed. Next, prime the coating with a primer. deep penetration. For the upper floors, it is advisable to do this procedure twice.
Further, after the primer has dried (after 6-24 hours), beacons are set. There are two ways to fasten them: with dowels or on a putty mortar. If you chose the option with a solution, then you need to apply a putty track, and use a long level to set the beacon.
When installing ceiling beacons, it is necessary to make them parallel at a distance from each other, which is 100-150 mm less than the length of the rule. After installing several beacons, it is necessary to check whether they are at the same level. To do this, pull the cord from the marks to opposite walls. Lighthouses can not be used if the ceiling height difference is not more than 10 mm. After installing the beacons, it is necessary to prime the ceiling again, or at least walk with a primer on the beacons.
Ceiling plaster and putty
If the difference is more than 20 mm, plaster is indispensable. Well behaved on the ceiling plaster type Rothbant. With the help of spatulas, the plaster is adjusted and leveled along the ceiling, and then leveled using the rule along the lighthouses. If the layer exceeds 20 mm, it is necessary to use a metal or polymer mesh, which is attached to the ceiling with dowels or adhesive.
Achieving perfect evenness of the plaster layer is not worth it. This is the task of the next layer - putty. Before puttying, it is necessary to prime and allow the ceiling to dry. If they did without plaster, then the starting putty is used first. Finishing putty is immediately applied to the surface leveled with plaster. The technology of puttying the ceiling is no different from puttying the walls, so we will not describe it.
Grinding
After the finish layer has dried, it should be processed with a grinding float (the most dusty job). This will remove minor irregularities and give the ceiling an aesthetic look. On this, the alignment of the ceiling in Khrushchev can be considered complete. Further preparation of the ceiling depends on the type of coating.
Video instruction "How to level the ceiling with your own hands"
Technologies recent decades allow you to create ceiling coverings with any texture features, and sometimes with complex 3d geometry. However, a smooth surface painted in white or soft tones is still associated with the very concept of “ceiling” and is unlikely to ever disappear from design practice. There are several ways to achieve this result, and all of them allow you to cope with the task without the involvement of specialists. To level the ceiling with your own hands, you need to have not the most expensive tool, a few free days, and most importantly, to know what type of finish is being prepared. And who better to know this than the homeowner?
Peculiarities
There are three effective, relatively inexpensive, and easy-to-implement technologies: putty, plaster, and drywall. To be able to make a choice for a particular case, you need to get acquainted with hallmarks each of them.
Putty is a plastic leveling compound. The putty mass consists of small particles and a polymer, thanks to which it literally "glues" to the surface. The putty is very easy to apply. Work with it with spatulas of various widths. Gypsum putty, used for interior decoration, is able to give an even layer with a thickness of 2 to 5 millimeters, this is its main "range".
In some cases, the layer can reach up to 2 cm, but you should not be guided by this as a constant parameter. The so-called starting putty gives a somewhat rough surface. Finishing putty forms a surface as smooth as the human eye can see. After drying, the putty layer can be processed with emery cloth (which, by the way, allows you to correct the mistakes made). The color of the material is white, sometimes grayish.
In damp rooms, putty is used on cement base because gypsum is afraid of moisture. Putties usually go on sale in the form of dry mixes, but there are also ready-made formulations.
Plaster is used when a much more substantial leveling layer is needed. The usual thickness is 2 cm; with additional reinforcement (strengthening), this value can be increased to 5 cm. Plastering of ceilings with a conventional mortar of cement and sand is not used due to the difficulty of application. Lime-sand mortar by today's standards is also not plastic enough and is rarely used. Now they work with either gypsum plaster or cement plaster. The names should not mislead you: they are distinguished from traditional compounds by polymer additives that provide high plasticity and adhesion (the ability to adhere to the surface).
Plasters are sold as a dry mix in paper or cardboard packaging. Before application, the mixture is mixed with water and stirred. For work, they use the rule, water and ordinary levels, spatulas, trowels and other tools.
It is necessary to understand the difference between gypsum plaster and gypsum putty. Regardless of the same binder, the particle size and composition of each mixture are selected according to the purpose. If you apply putty with a layer of 4-5 cm, it will simply collapse after a while. Therefore, it is necessary to act strictly within the framework specified by the manufacturer.
The device of a plasterboard ceiling involves the creation of a strong frame from special metal profiles, and then sheathing them with plasterboard - plasterboard sheets. In fact, this is a false ceiling of a rigid type, a technology that is fundamentally different from the application of leveling compounds. "Level" here means the ability to create a perfectly flat horizontal surface at any given height. To fasten the profiles to the walls, a puncher (or a drill with an impact mode) is required.
In order for the visual alignment of the ceiling to be successful, buy only high-quality materials for work, then you can level the ceiling yourself.
Advantages and disadvantages
Rarely is it possible to level the ceiling with one putty. As a rule, plaster is also necessary. Therefore, you can evaluate their qualities together. The advantage of the plaster layer is that its thickness is not more than necessary for the leveling itself, that is, 2-3 centimeters. Plaster is relatively inexpensive, durable, and does not form cracks if the technology is followed.
Drywall sheathing technology has a number of advantages:
- the ability to hide any flaws in the base ceiling;
- the presence of an interceiling space in which wires, pipes, air ducts can be placed;
- additional functions of the ceiling: the ability to arrange heat or sound insulation;
- any system configuration lighting fixtures in room;
- minimum preparatory work;
- speed of installation;
- the ability to easily create a new, geometrically correct plane;
- lack of "wet" processes (all work is carried out in complete cleanliness);
- the finished GKL coating needs only a thin layer of putty;
- different versions of GKL: for wet rooms and with increased fire resistance;
- Creation decorative solutions from two or more levels.
The main drawback is one, but very significant: the design of profiles and sheets of GK will reduce the height of the room by at least 5 centimeters.
Sometimes there is information about special mastics that can be used to glue HA sheets directly onto a concrete base, but here you need to weigh the possible risks. It would be more correct to assume that there are no options for mounting the GKL directly to the concrete ceiling. The only alternative is possible for owners of flat wooden ceiling surfaces, but here it is better not to take on the matter yourself.
The owner of the premises needs to decide how high the requirements are for the geometry of the plane. Further decisions depend on this.
In terms of magnitude, all deviations from the plane can be divided into two groups:
- irregularities in a small (up to half a meter) area: bumps or depressions, cracks, seams between floor slabs;
- irregularities on a large scale (up to the entire ceiling area), including deviations from the horizon.
Defects of the first group are literally striking; if they are not eliminated, the look will return to them again and again.
Defects of the second group are hardly noticeable, most often we do not know about them. For example, a puttied surface may seem even, and only if a two-meter or three-meter rule (rail) is applied, a gap of 2-3 centimeters (“pit”) is found, or vice versa, a bulge (“belly”). A separate case is the deviation from the horizontal plane as a whole (different wall heights). One corner of the ceiling and wall (husk) can be 2-3 centimeters higher than the opposite. The eye does not distinguish such a deviation; it is detected with a special tool.
Small flaws can be easily dealt with with putty, in the worst case - with a small layer. gypsum plaster. But in order to eliminate irregularities of the second type, special mixtures are needed, a reinforcing (reinforcing) mesh is required, and with a large deviation from the horizon, a suspension structure will have to be made. This means that much more work needs to be done.
How to prepare the surface?
Finishing decorative coating must be applied to a properly prepared surface.
Most often, the owners initially expect one of the options:
- concrete monolith: irregularities in the concrete itself, uncovered areas of rusty reinforcement, remnants of old putty, plaster, wallpaper, sometimes mold (bathroom) or grease (kitchen);
- ceiling of concrete slabs: everything is the same, plus deep seams and height differences between the slabs (up to 3-4 cm);
- wooden ceiling: boards or shingles.
For plaster and putty, the principle is simple - everything is removed, up to pure concrete:
- The remains of the old putty, emulsion, wallpaper are moistened twice with an interval of one hour, then removed with a spatula.
- Plaster and loosely holding elements are knocked down with a pick or hammer.
- The seams between the plates are embroidered to the maximum depth.
- Oil paint is removed with a grinder with a wire nozzle (cord brush). If there is no tool, a high-quality notch is made with a chisel. Chemical washes must not be used.
- Rust spots are removed with a solution of highly diluted acid.
- Mold and fungus require careful treatment with antiseptics.
- The “penetrated” reinforcement is painted over with oil paint to prevent rust spots on the surface of the finish.
It is worth visiting a household chemicals store: there are special compositions for sale to remove old wallpaper, rust stains, and fatty contaminants. When working, it is necessary to use protective equipment: construction goggles, gloves. For an angle grinder, it would be nice to find a casing with a nozzle for a vacuum cleaner.
For a drywall ceiling, rough cleaning is sufficient: removing crumbling layers, sealing seams and large cracks.
Technologies and methods
Now let's try to imagine how laborious each method is.
Drywall
The installation of a ceiling made of plasterboard sheets (GKL) is not a particularly difficult task, however, it requires careful familiarization with the norms and recommendations at each stage of work.
Guides are nailed along the perimeter of the room at a given height - ud profiles. A grid is drawn on the ceiling, on the lines of which suspensions are attached. Ceiling profiles cd lead at right angles to the guides, and then attached to the hangers. Drywall sheets are screwed to the cd profiles.
If you want the plane of the suspended ceiling to be as close as possible to the real ceiling (this option is desirable if the goal is to keep as much room height as possible), the task of the first marking step is to transfer the level of the lowest point of the ceiling to all walls.
Working under the very ceiling with a water level is inconvenient, so circular markings can be done at the bottom and then moved back up.
This is done in the following sequence:
- find the lowest point of the ceiling, transfer its level to any wall and make a mark;
- from the mark with the help of the level and the rule draw a vertical line down;
- on this line, approximately at the height of the eyes, another mark is made. Measure and record the resulting distance between the lower and upper marks;
- using a water level, transfer the height of the lower mark to all walls of the room. At least on each of the two sides of the corners between the walls there should be a mark;
- from each received mark, measure vertically upwards the distance that was recorded;
- according to the marks found, a line around the perimeter is beaten off with a coloring construction cord.
Of course, having a laser level, it would be possible not to do all this, but only builders have such a special tool.
When the level of the lowest point of the ceiling is transferred to all walls, ud profile guides are attached at this level around the entire perimeter. Their upper side is set at the level of the broken line. To fix the ud-profile, holes are drilled in them with a perforator in increments of 45-50 cm and dowel-nails are driven in.
The length of the ceiling cd-profiles must be equal to the width of the room(or length, if they go along), minus about 5 mm. They cut the profile with a grinder, metal shears or a hacksaw. Finished cd-profiles lead into guides on two opposite walls, set at a right angle and fastened with self-tapping screws (or, colloquially, "fleas"). Ceiling profiles are placed strictly through equal distances- either 60 or 40 centimeters. In this case, the joints of drywall sheets will fall on the profile.
At this stage, a frame was obtained from ceiling profiles parallel to each other. Now, over each profile with a step of 50-60 centimeters, mounting plates-suspensions (brackets) are screwed or nailed to the ceiling base. U-shaped). They will give the entire structure rigidity and the ability to hold the total weight of the GK sheets.
Before attaching cd profiles to hangers, they must be aligned strictly in one plane. This task is solved quite simply: in the middle of the room, a strong silk thread is pulled across the profiles and attached to the ud-guides. The profile is above the thread; it is raised just enough to form a millimeter gap, and then it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the suspension, first on one side, then on the other. It is necessary to ensure that another profile does not touch the thread at this time and does not knock down the markup.
By the time of installation, drywall sheets should lie in the room for several days. Now it remains to screw them with screws to the finished frame.
In this way, you can also repair a sagging ceiling in a private house or apartment.
plaster
After cleaning the base and sealing the seams, they begin to level with a plaster mixture.
It includes a number of operations:
- Padding. Plastering of concrete ceilings is never done without pre-treatment surfaces. On a clean, dried base, one of the special primers of the Betonkontakt type is applied. This mixture not only performs the functions of deep penetration primers, but also covers the surface with a layer of particles that provide reliable adhesion to the plaster layer. (To the touch, such a rough surface resembles emery).
- Lighthouse device. The lighthouse is special metallic profile with perforation along the edges and a flat edge in the middle. Its length is 3 meters, and the “height” has a step: there are beacons for 8, 10 or more millimeters. The greater the height of the lighthouse, the thicker the plaster layer will be. For the ceiling, it is better to purchase beacons 6 mm high.
Beacons are laid on the level and "freeze" with a solution. When the painter leads the rule along two beacons, the excess solution is cut off and a flat surface remains. Having shown patience when installing beacons, you can then plaster the surface of any area with an accuracy of one to two millimeters.
Lighthouses are installed parallel to each other. With the help of a construction cord, a line is beaten off, parallel to the wall. The distance to the wall is about 30 cm. Then they are guided by the length of the existing rule: for a two-meter tool, the distance between the beacons can be taken 160-180 cm.
Lighthouses are set using the water level. Hang the entire plane. At the lowest point, a hole is drilled for the dowel and a self-tapping screw is screwed in, leaving 6 mm on the surface. Then they find another point on the marked line, screw in the screw, and, controlling the level, twist it just enough so that the hats of both are on the same level. Then, moving along the line, they screw the third one flush, and so on. 2-3 self-tapping screws are screwed into two meters. At the end of the work, self-tapping screws are installed on all lines, so that all their hats are on the same level. After that, a little plaster solution is applied to the line, a beacon is applied and it is sunk with a rule until it rests on the caps of the self-tapping screws. It should remain in this position until the solution securely grabs it. The accuracy of the installation is rechecked many times, since the success of the whole business depends on it. Installed beacons are left to dry until the next day.
- Throw solution. Professionals believe that it is better to throw the plaster mixture, but for a beginner it is quite suitable to spread it with a spatula. The solution is applied between two beacons, and then they lead the rule along the beacons, removing the excess. Having finished, they do not go to the next lane, but through one. When the solution dries, fill in the remaining strips.
Plastering on beacons allows you to remove enough at a time flat surface. For the next layer, prepare more liquid solution, and this time they level it with circular movements of the rules or rub it with a trowel. After drying, such a surface is ready for finishing puttying or for pasting with thick wallpaper.
- Reinforcement. If a plaster layer thickness of more than 2 cm is required, reinforcement with special meshes (made of fiberglass, plastic, galvanized steel, etc.) is mandatory. When applying the first layer, the mesh is “lapped” to the base, in other cases it is screwed with screws. If the thickness should be 4 or more centimeters, another mesh is laid between the layers.
putty
To avoid future cracks, the joints between the plates are filled with one of the special elastic compounds at the preparation stage.
Thicker layers are applied with a starting putty. The finishing layer should not exceed 2 mm.
If the putty is done in two layers, a fine-meshed mesh ("cobweb") is rubbed between the layers. You can seal the seams with putty perfectly evenly. The main thing is the absence of dirt in the seams.
- If there is no rule or a good rail, you can use a drywall profile.
- Aluminum beacons can not be removed after plastering, as they are not subject to corrosion.
- It is better to take liquid expensive paints in stores, because you can buy a fake in the markets.
- If you set the beacons not across, but along the slabs, you can achieve a reduction in the consumption of the plaster mixture. But this should be done only if the geometry of the ceiling plane is well clear, otherwise the savings can turn into losses.
- Cement-based plaster mixtures are often cheaper than gypsum. However, it is enough to recalculate taking into account the consumption of material, as it becomes obvious: their price is almost the same. At the same time, gypsum is considered a more environmentally friendly and suitable material for housing.
If the last layer is done with finishing gypsum putty, this will greatly facilitate gluing light wallpaper or painted white.
- To calculate the number of drywall sheets and profiles, it is convenient to make a drawing, noting all the details.
- For marking, it is better to buy a black thread, as it is better visible.
- If the guide ud-profiles in the "Khrushchev" are laid on special gaskets, this adds ceiling covering soundproofing properties.
- Acrylic primers cannot be used for GKL, this leads to a violation of the sheet structure.
- Priming compositions with "filler" need to be stirred from time to time so that heavy particles do not remain at the bottom.
It is necessary to cover the curved ceiling quickly in order to obtain a continuous ceiling sheet as a result of the repair.
How to level the ceiling with plaster, see the following video.
Leveling the ceiling with putty requires certain skills in using the tool and knowledge of the physical and chemical properties of the materials used and the surfaces to be treated. With the advent of construction market dry building mixtures, which include additives for certain treated surfaces, there is no need to select the proportions of the ingredients of the mixture.
For most dry putty mixtures, the solvent is water. The ratio of water and mixture is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging material. You will need advice on issues such as:
- surface preparation;
- material selection;
- Application method.
In addition, if you do the work yourself, you will need a basic set of tools for puttying.
First, let's define the terminology: putty And putty. The confusion arises from the fact that the word putty means sealing cracks, holes with some material, for example, tow - putty. A from the word spatula, a plasterer's tool, was formed putty verb.
Both concepts of putty and putty are fixed in the Russian language. Professionals often use the words putty, putty, putty. Most Russian manufacturers write “putty” on the packages of dry mixes, and the productions producing mixes using imported technologies write “putty”. Here is an example.
When choosing one or another type of dry mix, determine the composition, read the description, instructions for use. The presented mixtures are suitable for sealing surface defects, finishing leveling.
There are 2 ways to putty ceilings - manual And mechanical. Both methods are suitable for independent work. If you have the skill of working with a spray unit, then it is not necessary to buy it, but rent it. This method is suitable for large areas putties.
The manual method involves many techniques for performing ceiling puttying. Every plasterer has specific set of techniques allowing you to quickly and efficiently perform your work. All methods of puttying are preceded by preparatory work:
- The device of scaffolds or stairs of a ladder, ensuring the safety of work;
- Preparation of a tool for cleaning defective areas and cleaning the ceiling (scrapers, brushes, a knife, a hammer, sponges, rags, etc.);
- Preparation of individual protective equipment (gloves, goggles, respirator, clothing);
- Protect the floor surface, furniture, if possible, remove or cover with a protective material.
For different types of floors (concrete, wood, sheet) there are dry putty mixes . The preparation of the concrete ceiling is carried out by cleaning the old peeling finish to the base of the slab, tapping voids with a hammer, a scraper, wire brush clean the ceiling, with a wet sponge, rags clean the ceiling from dirt and dust. The work is dirty, but the quality of the primer and putty largely depends on it.
How to putty uneven ceiling with large height differences
An easy way to check the unevenness of the ceiling- attach a long horizontal rail to it in several directions, so you will determine what height of the layer of leveling putty will be needed. The surface of concrete floor slabs is usually flat. Their horizontality between themselves and the ceiling as a whole may be violated. If this is not visually noticeable, then there is no need to install beacons for horizontal alignment.
In old houses, after dismantling the old coating, there may be a height difference (the highest and lowest points) of more 50 mm. In this case, do dry leveling GKL, suspended or stretch ceiling. But in any case, the repair of the main ceiling is required.
If a fungus or mold has formed on the ceiling, then it is necessary to determine the cause of the disease, take measures to prevent and eliminate the source of danger. Use a solution blue vitriol , but it is not as efficient as, for example, chemical agent Tikkurila, Homeenpoist, others.
Sequence of puttying work
Install beacons to level the surface of the ceiling - hard work for a beginner, you need experience using a laser or water level. Let the plasterers do this work. But the puttying of defects (cracks, holes, delaminations, junctions, pipe inlets, etc. - you can do it.
Advice. When repairing the ceiling, do not forget about the adjoining walls. They are also cleaned and puttied at least 200 mm from the ceiling around the entire perimeter if you plan to prepare the walls for finishing.
Here is a sample list of jobs:
Buy a concrete ceiling primer from a putty manufacturer. Usually for their dry or ready mixes the manufacturer produces a compatible primer.
It is important to know! For interior spaces suitable primers on the following bases: acrylic and mineral (for all ceilings); alkyd (for tiled, galvanized metal and glass surfaces).
Plasterers prefer universal deep penetration acrylic primers from Knauf and Ceresit, as well as domestic, prepared according to European standards: "O2", "Ivsil" And "Polymin" Donetsk, Russian UNKONT STANDARD, "Snowflake" for facades and wood flooring, other.
There are primers that are applied to the surface with a spray gun or roller, brush. For convenience, use a telescopic handle-extension.
Suitable for these primers acrylic putty for leveling the ceiling of the Polish manufacturer Sniezka and Belarusian "TYPHOON MASTER" or others similar in composition of the mixture.
The construction market is replete with compatible paintwork materials(LMB). Consultants will select finishing materials for specific grounds.
How to level the ceiling with putty with your own hands
So, the preparation of the ceiling for the finishing putty was done. Now you need to put putty on the ceiling and smooth it evenly over the ceiling. Tools for puttying the ceiling and adjoining walls.
We knead with a drill with a nozzle, leveling the dry mixture. We measure the calculated amount of water, add a certain amount of the mixture in small portions, mix until the consistency of sour cream. We insist 10 minutes, then mix again.
First, work out the movements for applying a uniform layer of leveling putty: try to level the walls, and then continue to apply from the wall to the ceiling and level the layer.
Putty is scooped from a bucket with a narrow spatula, put on the blade of a wide spatula knife in an even layer across the entire width. Press the spatula tightly against the joint of the plate, act with a smoothing movement from the wall to the ceiling. It is recommended to start from the window. The first layer is laid no more than 1.5 mm. Instead of a bucket and spatula, plasterers use a plane with a handle (falcon) or use two spatulas. Putty is placed on a plane and held in a free hand.
Advice. Apply the first layer on the surface of the slab in the direction perpendicular to the overlapping seam. The seam does not need to be puttied. This is done with the second layer of putty. The first layer will act as beacons, then the putty will evenly close the seam, there will be no bulge from the glued fiberglass.
After applying the layer, the residues from the wide spatula are scraped off on the edge of the plane and the layer is smoothed, then the next portion is scooped from the “falcon” with a working spatula and the putty is continued, the movements are worked out to automatism, and soon everything will start to work out. For the first leveling layer, apply rigid spatula 35-40 mm wide. This allows you to fill depressions and cracks due to the pressure of the knife on the surface of the plate.
After applying the leveling layer, check the surface. If flaws remain, then another layer is applied in a perpendicular direction. Before applying the final third layer, the surface of the ceiling is sanded and primed. After hardening, a final layer is applied, which is also sanded and primed before painting or wallpapering. Before painting, the smallest defects are checked with light directed along the ceiling, they are eliminated by additional grinding, then by a primer.
Useful video
In the video, let's see how to properly align the walls, the ceiling with the help of finishing putty:
Ceiling putty corrects defects, is the basis for subsequent finishing. Quality plastering depends on proper preparation surfaces, priming, choice of materials, tools, compliance with the technology of puttying works.
The surface of the ceiling can be in different states - for example, in houses and apartments that have been settled for a long time, the ceiling does not differ in perfect alignment. If recently the ceiling was not repaired, then on its surface there will be various defects and irregularities that spoil the appearance of the room and do not allow the use of fine finishing coatings.
The last factor is especially important - most finishing materials require a perfectly flat surface. There are a lot of ways to align it, so each case has to be dealt with individually. How to level the ceiling level, and will be discussed in this article.
Ceiling classification
Today, reinforced concrete floors (with or without a beam base) are most often used as the base of the ceiling, which are divided into three main types:
- Monolithic;
- prefabricated;
- Prefabricated monolithic.
The classification of floors is not limited to these types - you can find arched or tent structures, options made of wood, and a lot of other varieties. However, it is pointless to consider such options - they are used much less often, and the issue of alignment when using them is not so acute.
For the manufacture of monolithic floors standard concrete pouring technology is used. The solution fills the formwork, inside which there is a reinforcement that increases the strength of the finished structure. The ceiling itself is initially located in the interfloor space and is poured right there.
Prefabricated structures are a slab or a set of reinforced concrete slabs that are installed on beams or load-bearing walls, and then fixed. Bases of prefabricated monolithic type are structures based on hollow aerated concrete blocks. The connection of these blocks into a solid floor is achieved by pouring a layer of concrete.
Standard ceiling defects
At different types overlaps have a characteristic set of advantages and disadvantages that need to be used and leveled accordingly. Alignment of ceilings depends on a large number of different factors, but installation technology has the greatest influence on this parameter. The easiest way to deal with monolithic reinforced concrete structures- such overlaps are located strictly horizontally and do not have joints.
prefabricated and prefabricated monolithic ceilings have a number of disadvantages. On prefabricated structures, there are often height differences, which are due to different location plates. In addition, the plates themselves can be placed unevenly relative to the horizontal plane. The seams during the first construction are usually masked by rustication, which disintegrate during operation, and the ceiling has to be refinished.
In the case of prefabricated monolithic structures, everything is somewhat different. The individual parts of the base have a perfectly flat surface, which is covered with a layer of plaster. Ceiling damage is caused by various materials used in the manufacture of blocks, features of the mounting and leveling composition. As a result, the finish is covered with a network of cracks that you have to get rid of.
The mentioned defects are only a small part of all the damage that a ceiling can have. Regardless of the type of ceiling, any ceiling requires regular maintenance, and sometimes a complete repair. All actions aimed at bringing the ceiling into proper shape can be summarized in one category - alignment.
Ceiling leveling methods
First of all, you need to figure out how to level the ceiling - there are a lot of solutions, so you have to choose. There are two main types of alignment methods - wet and dry. The first type involves the use various formulations which harden some time after application. Dry, respectively, do not have a liquid form, i.e. they are represented by plasterboard, suspended and tension structures.
The implementation of wet leveling methods includes the following steps:
- Cleaning the ceiling from a layer of old coating;
- Restoration or replacement of rusts;
- Elimination of all existing damage on the floor, such as cracks and cracks;
- Alignment of the ceiling surface relative to a common horizontal plane;
- Ceiling finish.
To implement dry leveling, a different set of operations is required, including:
- Mounting the frame, which levels all the irregularities of the base;
- Installation of a finished ceiling structure.
Both methods are quite popular, so they should be considered in detail in order to know how to level ceilings.
Wet ceiling leveling
Often used as overlays. concrete plates. In the presence of concrete base, a ceiling height of about 2.5 meters and the absence of serious drops, it would be best to use special mixtures for leveling. The main criterion for this case is the height of the ceilings - the installation of any frame reduces free space. Alignment technology consists of a number of works and has some nuances.
Ceiling preparation
Before you stretch the ceiling, you need to work hard on preparing it for repair. The need for this stage is due to the fact that the leveling mortars, after hardening, will experience a number of loads - and a properly prepared surface allows you to minimize these loads.
If there is any coating on the ceiling, it must be completely removed. For example, whitewash should be well saturated with water and allowed to soak, and then cut off from the ceiling surface with a narrow spatula. To eliminate oil paint or enamel, you must first analyze the condition of the ceiling. A smooth ceiling can simply be tapped with a hammer and the paint removed only in those places where the plaster has begun to peel off.
If the ceiling has height differences or deviations from the horizontal plane, then the paint will have to be removed from the entire surface of the ceiling. For cutting, you need a grinder with a metal disk. The paint will be cut off along with the plaster, and in the process of work it is also worth removing all noticeable irregularities in the coating. In addition, it is imperative to remove the damaged filling of the joints between the plates by knocking it out with a hammer and chisel.
Upon completion of the work, you need to remove all construction debris, ventilate and vacuum the room. Now the ceiling can be primed using a mortar suitable for finishing the ceiling. The primer layer must dry completely, which usually takes about a day. After drying, you can proceed to the further stages of leveling.
How to level a concrete ceiling
The concrete ceiling leveling technology consists of the following steps:
- First of all, it is necessary to repair the rustication in the slabs. All joints are completely filled with mounting foam, which, after hardening, must be cut off, deepening into the gap by 2-3 cm. When the foam is cut, you can start applying the starting leveling cement layer.
- In the absence of irregularities and drops on the surface of the ceiling, you need to wait for the rust to harden and start waterproofing the ceiling. After that, you can apply a layer of finishing gypsum putty, having previously reinforced the seams with a special tape. The number of layers of putty depends mainly on the experience of the master, but usually only two layers are enough. The second layer is applied after the first has completely dried.
- The hardened coating must be sanded and vacuumed to remove all dust and other contaminants. Further, the surface of the ceiling must be treated with a primer to improve adhesion in the future.
- In the presence of high-altitude differences, leveling becomes much more complicated, and the number of works, accordingly, increases. On this stage it is very important to determine exactly how large the differences are - the choice of materials for leveling the ceiling directly depends on this. Wet ways leveling can only be used if the largest height difference does not exceed 5 cm. This limitation is due to the fact that the weight of the plaster, if the specified thickness is exceeded, will be too large - and this is already a danger to human health.
It must be understood that the use cement-sand mixture for plastering the ceiling requires good skills. To apply such a solution to the surface of the ceiling and fix it on it, you need considerable experience, which only professional builders have.
That is why it is not worth doing this work on your own. If the height differences do not exceed 3 cm, then ordinary cement or gypsum mixtures are quite suitable - in this case, in order to level the ceiling with your own hands, there will be no particular problems.
Ceiling markings
Another stage of work is marking the horizontal plane of the ceiling. The main task at this stage is to bring the ceiling to a general level, to which all sections of the floor must be lowered. The first step is to find the lowest corner of the ceiling. The best way to do this is with a laser level. This appliance is installed in the center of the room, leveled and rotated. On each wall you need to make one mark, from which the distance to the ceiling is then measured. Discovered low point- this is the same level at which the new ceiling will be located.
If the laser level is not available, it can be replaced with a water level. In extreme cases, even a simple transparent hose will do - the water in it will always be at the same level from both edges. Regardless of the devices used, the point of measuring the level is to transfer one mark to all other walls of the room.
To be able to visually track the future level of the finished ceiling, you need to drill holes around the perimeter of each wall in increments of 50 cm. Self-tapping screws are screwed into these holes, on which the cords that form the ceiling frame are pulled. If, in the process of pulling the laces, overlapping areas are found that are located below the expected level of the final structure, then these elevations must either be cut off, or the overall level of the cords should be lowered.
When the contour of the ceiling is marked, it is necessary to measure the maximum thickness of the coating layer required for full alignment designs. If the thickness is too large (over 3 cm), then it would be best to use the services of specialists. In other cases, you can level the ceiling with your own hands, using cement and gypsum compounds.
Beacon formation
As mentioned above, cement-based mortars will be used for leveling. The leveling layer of the required thickness is laid on top of the reinforcing metal mesh fixed on the ceiling surface. Reinforcement increases the strength of the structure and prevents it from shedding even under the influence of external influences.
Beacons are formed on top of the grid, which are cone-shaped protrusions made of cement mortar. The height of such cones should match the gap between the cord and the ceiling in this area. When each beacon has hardened, you need to connect them all - as a result, you will get convenient guides that make it easy to remove the remnants of the leveling compound using the rule.
Having prepared the mixture, you can begin to apply it. Used for work wide spatula. As a rule, one coat of coating is not enough, so several passes must be made. In any case, each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. It is recommended to pass the bottom layer with a notched trowel before application to improve surface adhesion.
After filling the areas between the guides, excess plaster must be removed. To do this, the rule is drawn along the guides along the fresh coating. You need to move the rule not only along, but also across the ceiling, so that the material is distributed more evenly. The remaining solution is used to grout uneven areas of the ceiling.
Final stage leveling the ceiling - applying finishing putty. It must be applied in several layers (of course, each previous one must completely harden before applying the next one). The finished coating is sanded, primed with a suitable hydrophobic composition, after which the ceiling can be decorated with any finishing material - for example, whitewash or foam tiles.
Dry leveling ceiling
Dry leveling most often means suspended plasterboard ceiling. Unlike plastering, this method is quite simple, which allows you to perform all operations with your own hands, even if there is no experience in carrying out such work. However, this method also has a number of rules that must be observed.
First of all, you need to do the preparation of the base. The remnants of previous coatings are removed from the ceiling surface, the rustication is removed and sealed. The next stage of preparation is the installation of a waterproofing layer, which will prevent neighbors from flooding the apartment from above. Waterproofing is needed even when used moisture resistant drywall, which, despite the name, cannot withstand direct contact with water.
Wireframe layout
Next, we'll talk about a simple drywall construction, designed only to level the shortcomings of the base floor. There are more complex configurations, but they make serious demands on the skills of the master, and the cost of repairs will be disproportionately higher.
The markup is carried out in exactly the same way as in the previous case. Along the perimeter of the walls you need to draw lines that will indicate the level of the future ceiling. Marking is carried out using a water level or level. The main thing is that the necessary marks are marked on each wall and exactly relative to each other.
- A crate with cells 60x60 cm, in which adjacent sheets are placed along one profile;
- A linear frame in which parallel rails are attached in 40 cm increments, and the transverse frame parts are located only under the drywall joints.
Calculation of materials for the ceiling
There is no direct relationship between the type of frame and the cost of leveling the ceiling. Both types of frames are strong enough and reliable, so you should choose the option that is best suited for a particular situation.
To arrange the frame in accordance with the markup, the following amount of materials is purchased:
- UD profiles - the total length must correspond to the total perimeter of the room, increased by 20%;
- CD profiles - these parts must have a total length that matches the number of jumpers on the ceiling, increased by 20%;
- Suspensions - purchased in the quantity necessary for installation in 60 cm increments.
Plasterboard sheets usually have dimensions of 2.5x1.2 meters. For a simple plasterboard ceiling, the calculation of the required number of sheets is carried out in accordance with the drawing, on which all structural elements must be displayed even before work begins. The number of self-tapping screws is also calculated simply - 100 fasteners are required for one sheet. The total amount of dowel screws is equal to the sum of twice the number of hangers and the cost of fastening UD profiles in 40 cm increments.
Frame installation
The algorithm for assembling a frame for a plasterboard ceiling includes the following steps:
- First you need to install UD profiles around the perimeter of the room at the desired level. After that, suspensions are attached to the ceiling surface in accordance with the markings. The edges of the suspensions after mounting the CD-profiles will be bent to fix the jumpers.
- Compound individual parts the frame is carried out using a crab-type fastener. To connect the parts along the length, you can use both a similar fastening and the usual docking - the profiles simply overlap each other with a run of about 10 cm and are connected with self-tapping screws.
If the ceiling surface is initially flat, but not smooth enough, instead of profiles, you can use wooden beams. In this case, the installation technology is increased by one stage - all wooden elements before installation, it must be treated with an antiseptic and a moisture-resistant compound.
Drywall installation
There are a number of rules that must be observed when attaching drywall sheets to the frame:
- A small gap should be left between the sheets and the wall (2-3 mm is enough);
- Sheets must be placed with an offset so that their transverse joints do not coincide;
- Self-tapping screws are screwed in every 20 cm and are slightly recessed in the sheets - this will allow them to be covered with putty in the future;
- On the joined sections, the sheets must be chamfered so that these places are subsequently completely filled with the mixture.
To understand in detail how to install a plasterboard ceiling, it is best to read the corresponding article with detailed description all steps. The same applies to drywall putty - this work has many nuances that deserve careful study.
Leveling the ceiling with tiles
For dry leveling, not only drywall can be used. One option is plastic tiles, which allows you to hide the flaws of the base and level it. The installation of this material is carried out in the same way as in the case of drywall - the floor is first prepared, then the frame is formed, and the tile is already attached to it.
Perhaps the only difference is that there is a special lock on the tile, which allows you to do without puttying the finished finish. Of the advantages of this option, it is also worth noting the ease of installation, complete resistance to direct contact with water and a relatively low cost.
Dropped ceilings
Various options for suspended structures are not only great way leveling the ceiling, but also a decent fine finish. Suspended ceilings are actively used to implement a variety of interiors and design solutions, which is largely due to the high decorative properties such structures.
Of the shortcomings, first of all, it is worth noting the high cost. Of course, versatility and practicality are worth it, but the cost of repairs with arrangement suspended ceilings will be very high. In addition, there is a height restriction - in rooms with low ceilings it is not practical to install a suspension system. Self-assembly of these structures is quite complicated, which will increase labor or financial (if specialists are invited) costs.
Stretch ceiling
Another solution based on the principle of masking an unsightly base is stretch ceilings. Such designs are distinguished by high decorative properties and allow you to hide any shortcomings of the base floor. There are two types of these structures - elastic and fabric, which differ in the material used to make the canvas.
Mounting a stretch ceiling on your own is quite difficult due to the nature of the canvas - it is very easy to damage it during installation. Correcting errors will worsen the appearance of the structure, and the desired effect will not be achieved. To prevent such things from happening, installation stretch ceilings It is best to immediately entrust professional builders.
Conclusion
There are many solutions to level the ceiling. choose the most suitable option it is necessary with full responsibility, taking into account all possible factors. For example, the complexity of installation may be completely insignificant if it is possible to use the services of specialists. Competent implementation of the chosen solution will allow you to level the overlap and hide all the shortcomings in it.
To eliminate the unevenness of the ceiling, you can use several different ways. The most popular options are plastering and mounting a drywall structure. With the implementation of the planned activities, you can easily cope with your own hands. Check out the features existing methods, select suitable way alignment and get to work.
Somewhat outdated, but quite relevant and extremely easy to implement method. Ease of execution combined with low cost make this method of leveling the ceiling very popular.
Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- a layer of plaster practically does not take away the height of the room;
- plaster allows you to get a classic white ceiling, which is especially appreciated by lovers of traditional finishes. If desired, of course, you can colorize the plaster (use a decorative composition);
- low cost of work;
- environmental friendliness. The ceiling, finished with plaster, will be able to "breathe", which will favorably affect the microclimate in the room.
Minuses:
- the process is quite laborious and dusty;
- it takes quite a long time to completely dry each layer of the coating;
- to equalize large differences, you have to spend a lot of material and buy additional devices (grids);
- it is necessary to spend time preparing the foundation;
- errors in the arrangement of finishes, as well as the settlement of the building, lead to cracks in the coating.
Finishing guide
First step. Get rid of the old finishing material, if any. Any old finish will significantly impair the adhesion of putty to the base. In the near future, the coating will simply begin to fall off the ceiling in pieces.
You can remove the old finish manually with a spatula, or you can use an electric drill with a special wire nozzle for this. The second method is simpler and faster, but very dusty.
For your own safety and comfort, wear protective goggles and a respirator before starting work.
The surface should be cleaned to a "bare" base.
Second step. Remove dust from the surface with a damp washcloth and cover with a universal primer. Also good for deep penetration.
Third step. If there are large cracks, seal them with starting putty and seal with a special plaster mesh.
If there are no large cracks, simply apply a layer of starting putty or plaster to the surface and level the coating using the rule.
Let the starting layer dry and re-check its evenness with the rule. Eliminate irregularities with sandpaper, putty the recesses.
Fourth step. Lightly sand the surface and vacuum it thoroughly or wipe it with a damp washcloth.
Fifth step. Apply finishing putty to the ceiling. Depending on the evenness of the surface, apply the finishing agent in a single or double layer. A new layer is allowed to be applied only after the previous one has completely dried, otherwise the coating will delaminate and fall off.
Sand the dried surface with a fine emery cloth and remove dust with a vacuum cleaner or a dampened sponge.
Drywall sheets are fixed to a special suspension system of profiles and guides, which allows you to hide even very large surface defects without the need pre-training ceiling. Additionally, under drywall, you can hide electrical cables, elements ventilation system and other communications.
Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages:
- drywall allows you to hide any differences in ceiling height;
- the material is environmentally friendly and safe;
- with the help of drywall, you can hide various communications;
- the material is extremely easy to process and use, which allows you to create from it design structures of any level of complexity.
Minuses:
- profile frame reduces the height of the room;
- additional power tools are required for installation;
- the frame requires additional cash investments;
- for installation you will have to find at least one assistant.
Installation guide
First step
Along the perimeter of the room at a selected height (selected individually in accordance with the desired type of finishing structure), attach a guide profile to the walls. Use dowels to fix.
It is important that all profiles are fixed at the same level. To do this, find the lowest corner of the room, set the required distance down from it, then transfer the points to all the remaining corners along the level and connect them with straight lines.
To draw a line, use a thread dipped in any coloring composition. Chalk line can be used. Stretch the thread (chalk cord) between the applied dots, pull it slightly away from the wall and release. Straight marking lines will remain on the surface.
Second step
Attach straight hangers to the rough base. Fix with dowels. TO wooden ceiling fasten the hangers with self-tapping screws. In case of concrete floor, the holes for the dowels will have to be pre-prepared with a puncher.
Third step
Insert the supporting drywall profile into the guide profile, align the products and screw them to the hangers. Support profiles place in 400 mm increments.
Fourth step
Lay communications if their installation is planned under a drywall construction. After fixing the access sheets to inner space you won't get anymore.
Lay electrical cables to future fixtures and make sure they work. If you do not have the skills to perform such work, it is better to contact a professional electrician.
Fifth step
Start screwing the trim sheets to the frame. First, chamfer the transverse joints with a knife.
Fasten all planned sheets in accordance with the selected finishing scheme.
sixth step
Fill the joints of the sheets with putty and further strengthen them with a sickle mesh.
seventh step
Putty the surface (a thin layer will be enough) and sand the dried putty with sandpaper.
Finally, apply finishing putty, paint the ceiling or perform another finish at your discretion.
Other ceiling leveling methods
Plastering and installing a drywall structure are not the only methods for leveling a ceiling. So, for leveling irregularities, you can use modern tension and suspension systems.
The suspended ceiling is mounted in almost the same order as the plasterboard construction:
- suspensions are fixed to the ceiling;
- a metal profile frame is attached to the suspensions;
- decorative panels are attached to the frame.
The panels themselves can be made from a variety of materials: Chipboard boards, minfiber, metal, etc. When choosing a specific material, be guided by your personal requirements regarding the following parameters:
Please note that the standard suspended structure reduces the height of the room by an average of 150-200 mm.
An excellent, but rather expensive method of leveling the ceiling is to install a tension system. It is modern and very effective option, requiring the performer to have at least minimal skills in handling special tools (heat gun).
The system is installed in the following sequence:
In the process of cooling, the canvas will stretch, becoming more elastic and durable.
Stretch ceiling can be of any color, which allows you to implement a wide variety of design ideas.
Thus, the ceiling can be leveled using several methods. You must decide for yourself which method suits you best. Having decided on the best option, do everything in accordance with the above recommendations, and you will align the ceiling of your home no worse than a qualified repairman would do.
Successful work!
Video - How to level the ceiling with your own hands
