Leveling compounds for the floor: an overview. How to level a concrete floor: the better to level the floor, step by step leveling process Leveling the floor with a grout
Filling the floor with a self-leveling mixture during repairs involves the implementation of a special and simple technology, as well as calculating the consumption of materials used. All this can be done independently, without resorting to the services of builders or workers.
Foundation preparation
Everything is quite simple here - there should be no debris and cracks on the floor. Therefore, gaps should be sealed and the floor primed. Wait for the liquid to absorb and dry. Do not pour liquid floor before the primer is completely dry. If you do not have a primer, you can take a liquid solution of the same mixture to level the floor - to do this, mix a little powder with water to get a slightly thick mass.
Mixing technology
Many people use self-pulling mixtures from manufacturers such as Ceresit, Knauf, Birss, Glims, Vetonit, Prospectors, etc. to create an absolutely even surface. It is very easy to prepare the solution: a small part of the powder must be poured into the water, but not vice versa, otherwise it will be difficult to make the mass homogeneous before pouring.
You can mix the water with the powder manually, but the so-called mechanized way, in the form of a drill and mixer, which can be purchased at any hardware store. Filling the self-leveling floor is possible while the mixture is still in liquid state and did not start to thicken. Therefore, you should immediately prepare all the tools, mix the solution and immediately lay it. Remember that the thickened mass must not be diluted with water - in this way, you violate the laying technology and risk cracking.
Consumption of self-levelling compound
The use of a mixture for leveling the floor is not appropriate in all cases. It is mainly used when the difference in the height of the floor surface is not more than 2 cm. If the difference is greater, such a floor screed can become too expensive and will take a very long time to dry.
The main thing is to follow the rules by which a self-leveling mortar is prepared: for 1 square meter with a thickness of 1 mm, the consumption is 1.5 kg of the mixture. Usually 6-6.5 liters of water fall on 1 bag of the mixture. If you pour the maximum amount of water, the solution will turn out to be liquid and it will be easier to work with it.
Necessary tools and pouring
To lay the self-leveling floor you will need:
- Clean bucket of 20 liters;
- Spatula for laying the mixture in corners and other hard-to-reach places;
- Drill and mixer for mixing the mixture;
- Needle roller on a long handle.
The mixture begins to dry out well after 30-40 minutes, so you will need to do everything quickly. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- Pour the solution onto the surface;
- Take a spatula and start helping the mixture spread evenly over the entire surface;
- Take a needle roller and roll over the mixture. Thus, the mass is much better distributed, air bubbles are removed from it, which worsen the strength of the floor.
Area to fill
Leveling a floor with a leveler can be inexpensive if done right. For one batch, the area may be different, as it depends on the curved sections and the surface topography. As a rule, one bag of mixture is obtained per batch. If you take into account the water, you get one 20-liter bucket, which is poured onto the floor, after which the mass is leveled. Drying time is limited by the properties of the mixture, so all work should be done quickly and it is advisable not to knead more than 20 liters of the mixture at a time.
The thickness of the self-leveling floor in the thinnest place must be at least 5 mm, otherwise you will again violate the technology. The period of complete drying of the self-leveling mixture is from 3 to 14 days, regardless of temperature and humidity level. Laying the finish flooring in the form of laminate, linoleum, etc. only when the solution is completely dry. This is necessary in order to avoid the formation of mold at high humidity and damage to the integrity of the coating.
Common laying mistakes
The most common mistakes when working with a leveling compound are:
- It must be remembered that the mixture is called self-leveling because it spreads beautifully over the base and forms a flat surface, but you must also help the mixture spread. If the solution did not reach the corner, it means that it was poured far from the corner and the solution should be stretched with a spatula.
- It is important to choose the right roller - with needles 1-2 mm above the expected fill level. Then he will not shift the mixture too much along the base, or vice versa, will not move it from its place in any way.
- You should also think about the flaps and the height of the threshold so that the solution does not overflow.
- Before you start pouring the floor, you need to measure the height of the entire room. Because if there is a hillock in the middle of the room, and you don’t notice it, then after the end of the work it will stick out.
polgid.ru
What is the best way to level a concrete floor?
- Floor leveling methods
- Lighthouse Alignment
- Self-leveling floor device
If you decide to make repairs in your apartment, whether it is a major overhaul of the entire space or a repair of a floor covering that has become unusable, then you are unlikely to be able to do without leveling the floor. Even in new apartment the base of the floor made of concrete slabs is very often uneven, especially at the joints. In old apartments for a long time people live, the condition of the upper part of the concrete floor is not just bad, but deplorable, and without its preliminary leveling, one can only dream of high-quality repairs in the apartment.
Before leveling, it is necessary to carefully measure all the unevenness of the concrete floor.
Floor preparation for leveling
To determine the method of leveling the floor and purchase the necessary materials, you must first measure the level of the floor. To do this, you first need to dismantle the flooring and examine the irregularities.
For measurements, a long level is used, with the help of which the evenness of all sections of the floor is determined. The surface of the concrete floor becomes uneven either due to abrasion and the appearance of cracks during operation, or due to concrete slabs laid crookedly during the construction phase of the house. There are often times when both causes are present.
With the help of the level, the planes of the laid slabs are first checked and the highest point of the floor is marked. Then the chipped and worn sections of the plates are examined and the most deep depression. Preliminary determination of the desired height of raising the floor level is extremely important, since if this level is significantly raised, serious difficulties are possible: the doors will not be able to open or they will interfere with the operation of the radiator. Often time and money to eliminate these troubles takes more than the alignment itself.
Floor leveling methods
Installation of pin beacons.
Usually the floor covering is the last thing to be dismantled during the preparation for the repair work, and the first thing to be restored. Simply put, the floor must be leveled before the walls and ceiling are leveled. To date, there are 2 methods of alignment concrete base:
- by lighthouses;
- pouring floor device.
If the area of the room is small, and the difference between the minimum and maximum points of the floor plane does not exceed 35 mm, then the best option would be a self-leveling floor. If the differences between the points are large, then you can level the concrete floor according to the exposed beacons.
When choosing one of the options, it is important to understand that the ideal way to level the concrete floor has not yet been invented, and each method has its pros and cons. And it is very important before proceeding with the alignment, to understand them, so that in the future in the process of work not to do stupid things.
Lighthouse Alignment
Floor screed scheme.
This method is by far the most common among amateurs to do everything around the house with their own hands. It is best suited for leveling the floor in large rooms: halls, living rooms. Using this method, initially, special beacons must be laid and fixed on a concrete base - metal slats, which later serve as a guide for the installation of a new floor screed.
The main advantage of this method is the device of a high-quality and durable screed, including on large surfaces, with minimal cost and time for work. But such a surface can harden from 10 to 30 days, depending on the thickness of the screed layer and the temperature in the room. If you need to level the concrete floor faster, then this method will have to be abandoned.
To perform alignment, you will need tools:
- vacuum cleaner;
- perforated corners;
- Master OK:
- rule.
Before leveling the floor, its base must be carefully swept, and even better - vacuumed to remove accumulated dust and dirt. As lighthouses, metal perforated corners are most often used. Beacons must be installed along the room: the first and last - at a distance of 30 cm from the side walls, the rest - at an equal distance from each other, while the step between them should not exceed 1 m.
Installation is done in this order. After marking the floor, strictly along the lines they “slap” with a step of 20-25 cm with cakes of pre-prepared cement or gypsum mortar. These cakes are placed in a vertical line and the beacons are leveled by level, deepening them into the solution or lifting and placing a smaller cake from below.
Floor screed tools: metal beacons, building level, building mixer, large capacity.
When the mortar sets a little and fixes the exposed beacons, the empty space remaining under them is filled with mortar. At this stage, it is still possible to correct the exposed beacons, achieving the most flat horizontal. After that, the beacons must be given time to firmly fix themselves in the solution and only then proceed to leveling the floor.
For leveling use freshly prepared cement mortar. The optimal density of the solution resembles thick sour cream. It will be difficult to level a thicker solution, and too liquid will not be strong enough, and it will take a very long time to dry.
The alignment process must be started from the farthest from entrance doors corner, moving towards the door. The first and second row are poured simultaneously. Then the last and penultimate rows are filled in the same way. Then the filling is performed one row on each side, ending with the central one.
The cement mortar is poured between the installed beacons and leveled with a trowel to fill any remaining voids inside the screed. After filling the row with a solution, a rule is set on the beacons with an edge and carried out 2-3 times, leveling the solution flush with the beacons.
The filling and leveling of each subsequent row must be done very carefully, constantly monitoring the density of the mortar, since it cannot remain absolutely the same, and sagging may appear at the points of contact with the already laid mortar, negating efforts to create a flat surface.
The last row is filled and leveled in small portions, the space actually filled with mortar should not exceed the length of outstretched arms. This is the most complex and time-consuming part of the entire job of leveling the surface of the concrete floor. Then the laid screed must be allowed to dry. Only after complete drying, you can proceed to further repairs.
Self-leveling floor device
This is the fastest and easiest to perform, but far from the cheapest way to level the floor. For alignment concrete surfaces special self-leveling compounds are used. It is enough to simply pour such a mixture onto a concrete base, and due to its specific properties, it will spread in a thin layer over the surface, filling all the irregularities.
When leveling the surface in this way, you need to acquire the following tools:
- vacuum cleaner:
- foam roller;
- needle roller;
- paint stalks.
As with leveling the floor with beacons, you first need to clean its surface. Upon completion of cleaning, the concrete surface is treated with a special primer for self-leveling floors. After priming, you can begin to dilute the self-leveling mixture, strictly following the instructions printed on its packaging.
Bay self-leveling mortar floor, you need to walk on it in different directions spiked roller to remove air bubbles in the diluted mixture. You need to work with the roller in special studded shoes - paint shoes, and the needles in the roller should be longer than the height of the self-leveling floor in its deepest place.
Such a floor dries in just a few hours, after which you can proceed to further repairs. Such a drying rate is explained both by the specific composition of the mixture and the thickness of the casting layer, which does not exceed 3-4 mm.
Despite the speed and simplicity, this method is still not ideal.
It is not suitable if the height difference of the surface to be leveled is greater than 3 mm.
It is also poorly suited for pouring the floor over large areas, since the self-leveling mixture sets quickly, and there simply is not enough time to perform a high-quality roller treatment of the flooded surface.
Leveling the floor at the same time as laying the tiles
First, using a level at the bottom along the perimeter of the walls, a mark is applied with a marker, marking the future horizontal of the laid tile. Then the actual laying of tiles is carried out, while the level of the laid tiles is regulated by the amount applied to its base. adhesive composition. However, in this way, irregularities of 2-3 mm can be leveled; with large differences, it will not help.
Leveling the concrete base of the floor is not one of the complex construction operations; such work does not require high qualifications from the performer, but attention and patience. Therefore, for its implementation, there is no need to resort to the services of construction companies, you can safely take on the work yourself, saving money for professionals to perform more complex repair operations.
moyagostinaya.ru
Leveling compounds for the floor: an overview
Very rarely the floors in a new apartment or house are perfectly even.
Well, our builders do not know how to do everything so that they do not have to align additionally.
And you often have to do this work, since almost all manufacturers of modern materials for laying on the floor (parquet, linoleum, laminate, and so on) indicate that for successful operation and a long service life, the base must be perfect.
And how to achieve this?
Before, the builders didn’t do anything: they arranged a screed, and leveled everything with concrete.
Now it has become much easier to level the floor, because special leveling compounds have appeared on the market.
It is enough to dilute them with water in the right proportion (this is indicated on the package) and pour it on the floor.
It takes a minimum of time, but in the end the result is amazing!
The basis of bulk leveling mixtures is gypsum or cement.
Usually it is aluminous or Portland cement.
Quartz sand, polymer additives and various surfactants are also added to the composition.
If the floor is initially made of a certain color, then a certain pigment is added to the composition of such a mixture.
Manufacturers add porous fillers to the floor leveling composition, thanks to which the finished floor acquires exceptional sound and thermal insulation properties.
In fact, leveling mixtures have only one minus.
And he is typical high quality products A: This is a high cost.
But there are a lot of pluses:
- increased strength;
- low evaporation;
- environmental friendliness of the material (after all, mixtures are made from natural materials);
- no shrinkage;
- ease of installation;
- quick set of strength and strength;
- perfect grip.
Depending on the condition of the substrate, the layer of leveling screed can be very thin.
The effectiveness of the properties of the material is not reduced.
Types of leveling compounds for the floor
In the video, you will learn how to determine the readiness of the self-leveling mortar.
Now construction industry enterprises produce two types of mixtures that are used to level floors - leveling and self-leveling.
The first - leveling, otherwise they are also called self-leveling screeds, are used where it is necessary to form the main bearing layer on the floor, eliminate significant defects, and repair the base.
Also, when installing underfloor heating, such material is used as the final screed.
The self-leveling screed is not a self-levelling compound.
After it is diluted with water to the desired consistency, it becomes quite thick.
It should be applied along the beacons with further leveling with a metal spatula or a rule.
Lay such a screed with a layer of 10-30 mm.
However, working with such it is much easier than with a conventional cement-sand mixture.
After all, self-leveling screeds contain various additives that make the finished solution more plastic, and the resulting base more durable.
The high mobility of the material makes it possible to lay it in a very thin layer, protecting the coating from cracks.
A typical representative of self-leveling screeds is the CT 80 mixture of the well-known company Ceresit.
It is packaged in bags of 25 kg.
The cost of one bag is 250-270 rubles.
And for 1 sq. meter of surface with a layer of 1 mm consumes 2 kg of the finished solution.
The finished surface can be used after 7 days.
Self-levelling compounds, otherwise known as self-leveling mass or self-leveling floors, are used to make the finishing base before starting the decorative finish.
With their help, small differences in height (3-20 mm) are eliminated.
If it is necessary to eliminate larger damage on the floor, then the solution is laid in several layers.
After the mixture is mixed with water, its consistency becomes liquid and it spreads by gravity over the base, perfectly leveling the horizon.
No levels or beacons required.
In order to speed up the spreading rate, you can use a squeegee or a metal spatula.
In order to remove air bubbles from the spreading screed, its surface is treated with a spiked roller.
After drying, the base becomes perfectly flat.
The representative of these mixtures is Ceresit's CN 68.
The cost of a bag weighing 25 kg varies between 470-490 rubles.
Consumption per 1 sq. a meter of surface with a layer thickness of 1 mm is 1.6 kg.
Insulation of the concrete floor of the first floor. The correct principle of such work is shown on our website.
How much money do you need to spend to repair the floor in Khrushchev? Here you can find the answer to this exciting question!
How can you cover the concrete floor in the garage? This article contains all the necessary information. Motorists will be especially useful!
Floors can be used after 24 hours.
Surface preparation
The key to the strength and durability of the leveler is proper preparation surfaces.
First of all, the floor must be cleaned of paint, various greasy stains, removing them mechanically or by chemical means.
Be sure to remove weak and flaking areas.
Any holes or cracks through which the leveling compound may leak must be carefully sealed.
Then the dust should be removed with special care.
It should be said right away that banal sweeping the floor with a broom or brush will not be enough.
It is necessary to use a vacuum cleaner and go over the surface several times to ensure that the substrate is as clean as possible.
After the dust is removed from the surface, it must be primed with a primer.
The primer must first be diluted with water.
The primer is applied in a thin continuous layer without smudges and puddles.
It is desirable that the primer be of the same manufacturer as the leveling compound.
And at the end of the preparation, a tape made of polyurethane is attached to the walls.
The thickness of the tape is 5 mm, and the width depends on the thickness of the poured solution.
Solution preparation
Detailed instructions for preparing the solution are on the packaging of the dry mix.
Otherwise, the result will be unpredictable.
For the solution, a container should be prepared in advance.
Preferably plastic.
This is usually the standard plastic basin.
The dry mixture is poured into it and clean water is added in the required amount.
Then, using an electric drill with a mixer nozzle, all this should be thoroughly mixed.
The mixture should be homogeneous, not have clots and lumps.
The setting time may be significantly reduced and you simply will not have time to distribute the prepared solution.
Or the surface due to rapid solidification will not be perfectly flat.
If you allow an overdose of water in order to save on the amount of material, then strength characteristics mixtures will be significantly reduced.
If there is less water than required, the spreadability of the solution will decrease.
If the solution begins to thicken, you should speed up the work.
You can't dilute it with water!
Perform surface leveling
In this video, you will learn how to level the floors with a self-leveling mixture and what will be the consumption of this material for the floor.
Happy viewing!
Before you start pouring the leveling mixture, you should close all windows and doors in the room.
A very important point is the temperature of the floor.
It is desirable that it be in the range of +5 - +10 degrees.
The floor surface must be dry.
After preparing the solution, it is poured into strips of 50 cm on the surface and leveled with a spatula.
Filling is done quickly so that the edges of the previous strip do not have time to dry.
The room should be filled in one go.
That is, today it is impossible to do one part, and the other tomorrow!
If the room has such a large area that it is unrealistic to fill it in at one time, then the mixture is poured through one lane.
After the finished strips have dried, the gaps are filled.
The drying time of the leveling compound and its hardening depend on the composition of the particular product, the thickness of the self-leveling floor and the temperature in the room.
Leveling the wood floor
Leveling a wooden floor with a self-levelling compound.
Yes, wooden floors can also be leveled with a leveling compound.
That's just a self-leveling mixture (liquid floor) on wood is not used.
You can only pour a screed, which is thicker and leveled with a spatula.
Most ready mixes are designed for concrete substrates.
However, manufacturers produce such products for wood floors.
Knauf, Ceresit and other companies put special markings on the packaging with such goods.
So don't get confused!
From standard view the mixture for wooden floors is distinguished by the speed of hardening.
Mixtures for wooden surfaces are also distinguished by the presence of fiberglass in them.
Thanks to this substance, the adhesion of the solution and the tree grows several times.
And its plasticity increases significantly.
Casein is not added to the composition of such mixtures.
After all, when it dries, ammonia is released from it, which can destroy the wooden coating.
When applying the leveling compound, the thickness of the fill specified by the manufacturer should be strictly observed.
When pouring and further drying the solution, air draft and drafts in the room are unacceptable.
Do not start pouring the screed from the center of the room.
You should start from the farthest corner, pouring small portions.
The mixture is distributed immediately.
The first few days it is desirable to maintain a constant temperature in the room.
When buying dry mixes, pay attention to the date of manufacture.
Yes, they are not food, but they still have an expiration date.
Do not purchase products from unknown companies.
As a rule, the quality of their mixtures is very low.
In contact with
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floordigest.ru
Self leveling concrete floor step by step
Whatever coating you look for for the floor in your apartment, you need to level the base under it. Then linoleum, laminate or ceramic tiles will lay down beautifully and last a long time. Different types of finishes also have different surface quality requirements, so do-it-yourself floor leveling can be done in several ways. The main materials are plywood, the same concrete, sometimes GVL. But before laying them in any case, preparation will be needed.
Preparatory work
Correction of draft surfaces according to any of the schemes listed below requires evaluation and measurement of irregularities. This will help to accurately calculate the degree of leveling that the concrete floor needs, choose the best way for this and determine the amount of building materials.
Irregularities in the apartment are easy to measure with a long rail. A two-meter bar is laid on a concrete base in different directions, and the detected vertical gaps are determined with a ruler. In panel-type houses, such difficulties are useless - the floors themselves are quite even. Problems arise only if the plates were initially laid incorrectly.
Before proceeding with leveling, the concrete floor should be thoroughly cleaned. After that, the base must be repaired if its condition is unsatisfactory. All cracks and chips must be puttied or smeared with ordinary tile adhesive. It is better to knock down the bumps with a chisel in order to reduce the consumption of leveling concrete mixtures or not damage the plywood.
Log system
Leveling the floor with a log is required with a large difference in levels in the neighboring rooms of the apartment - about 8-10 cm. Most often, this work needs to be done when redeveloping the premises and attaching a loggia, the floor of which is located lower than in the living rooms. In the role of a lag, bars 50x70 or 50x50 mm are suitable, on which it is convenient to attach sheets of plywood.
Leveling the floor with joists. Instruction:
1. Prepare nests for anchors under transverse joists with a step of 60-70 cm.
2. Wooden crate protect from contact with concrete with a layer of waterproofing.
3. Lay the bars on the floor every 50 cm, press firmly and fix with anchor bolts.
4. At the highest point of the transverse row, lay the first longitudinal beam and align it, referring to the level. If the block needs to be lifted, use mounting wedges.
5. In parallel, the second beam is laid against the opposite wall.
6. Lay the intermediate logs in 50 cm increments, align them, checking them for level.
7. The final stage is laying plywood sheets on the floor. Instead of plywood for laminate, you can take a cheaper chipboard or sew up the base with boards.
If it is cold in the apartment, thermal insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards) should be laid under the coating between the lags of the lower row.
Dry screed
Fast and easy way level the concrete floor with height differences from 3 to 5 cm. Further technology is simple:
1. Lay glassine or a waterproofing film no thinner than 200 microns on the base. Sheets should be laid overlapping and with a bend on the walls of about 8 cm.
2. Glue the edge tape around the perimeter of the room.
3. Install beacons on the concrete floor for leveling in accordance with the zero mark determined during the measurement. If everything is in order with your eye, you can skip this step.
4. Fill the gaps between the slats with loose mass. Compact and level the sand with any improvised tool.
5. Lay plywood, chipboard or any other sheet material on top. Floor plywood must be at least 1 cm thick.
Such a budget leveling option, however, is quite reliable under linoleum, carpet or laminate. It is not advisable to use it only for laying tiles. With a relatively small height difference under it, it is easier to make a traditional screed.
Leveling the floor with plywood without a lag can be done without taking the furniture out of the room, but doing everything in parts. But the main thing is that a dry screed has good thermal insulation properties and does not require other floor insulation under the coating.
self-leveling floor
A fairly expensive way to self-level the concrete floor. Due to the high cost of self-leveling compounds and their high consumption per square meter, it is advisable to use this technology only for small irregularities up to 3 cm.
At the same time, cheaper cement-containing compounds (Found T-45, Bepors) after hardening form a perfectly flat surface for any coating - be it hard laminate boards or thin linoleum without a substrate. And polymer self-leveling floors (liquid linoleum) in themselves are an excellent finish.
When the concrete floor is ready for leveling, it must be covered with soil and allowed to dry for about a day. While working with the leveling compound in the apartment, it should be warm enough, but not hot. Optimum temperature– +10-30°С.
We level the floor under the linoleum with our own hands:
1. Dilute the leveling mixture with water according to the instructions and mix thoroughly with a drill with a mixer attachment. Leave for a couple of minutes so that the solution is well saturated.
2. While the composition is settling in the first container, start preparing the second portion.
3. The finished solution is mixed again and poured onto the concrete floor in a narrow strip of about 30-40 cm - so that it is convenient to level each portion with a spatula.
4. Roll the mixture on the floor with a needle roller on a long handle and release air bubbles. Particular care must be taken to roll out the boundaries of neighboring batches.
5. After pouring the entire area, level the fresh composition again with a roller. Everything must be done within half an hour, until the solution has had time to set.
6. A couple of hours after pouring, cover the entire area with a film. In this case, the new concrete floor will not dry out too quickly and the coating will not crack.
In the case when for finishing was chosen tile, its laying can be carried out already 3 days after the concrete floor has hardened. And with the alignment under the laminate or linoleum, you will have to wait about a week.
Tip: if the concrete pavement could not be thoroughly rolled with a spiked roller, and small bumps appeared, they will be leveled with a grindstone.
Concrete screed
In the apartments of the old stock, this leveling method is not applicable, since it significantly increases the load on the dilapidated bearing structures. But in a private house, and even on the ground floor, a concrete floor screed is a completely acceptable and inexpensive option. Conventional concrete pouring makes it possible to equalize height differences up to 6 cm. Although this process, of course, is laborious and time consuming.
Before pouring the solution, the base must be covered with two layers of soil with complete drying of each. For this, the traditional Concrete-contact (TM Lakra) is used. Expansion joints are left along the contour of the future screed, so at the junction of the floor and walls, you will need to glue a damper tape.
You can combine the leveling of the floor with its insulation. To do this, it is laid on a rough base heat-insulating material(expanded clay or expanded polystyrene) and waterproofing. After carrying out all the preparatory work, the alignment with a cement-sand screed is carried out according to the following scheme:
1. Installation of beacons (metal or cement) in increments of 1 to 3 m.
2. Preparation of a leveling solution. It will require 1 part of cement and 3-4 parts of sand. To facilitate the screed and reduce the thermal conductivity of concrete, sand can be partially replaced with small expanded clay granules.
3. Laying on the floor finished composition in the intervals between the lighthouses and its leveling by a wide rule.
4. Reprimer.
5. Applying a thin layer of leveling compound, if the floor needs to be perfectly leveled for finishing. You can refuse to use the finishing pouring of the screed, replacing it with a more time-consuming, but completely free grout.
It will be difficult to perform all the “wet” leveling processes yourself - the cement mortar hardens quickly enough, so you should invite a partner or find a way to level the floor under the laminate without a screed.
When choosing a method for leveling concrete surfaces, first of all, you need to focus on the thickness of the required layer. Naturally, the smaller it is, the cheaper and faster it is possible to correct the flaws of the builders. In any case, it will be easier to level the concrete floor than to regularly change linoleum that has broken through on the hillocks or cracked laminate later.
There are more than a dozen manufacturers of mixtures and compositions for self-leveling floors in the Russian Federation alone. And how among all this variety to choose the right option? Which self-leveling floor will really be better than the rest? We have taken the liberty of introducing you to the most popular compositions. After all, it is obvious that the materials that are in demand are simply obliged to meet the highest expectations! All prices here and below are for comparison purposes only.
What to look for when choosing?
In order for you to 100% understand the whole variety of mixtures for self-leveling floors, we have summarized all the available data in one huge table - not every reader will find the strength to read it completely. But are you a stubborn person?
| Selection criterion | Types of self-leveling floor | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Binder material* | polyurethane | A mixture for polyurethane self-leveling floors is prepared on the basis of a urethane prepolymer with a hardener and additives. It spreads well over the base, the coating is elastic, withstands vibrations and temperature changes. It is used as a finishing layer, when adding acrylic paint, you can create an interesting decorative coating. At the same time, the use of such compositions is possible only for high quality bases. |
| epoxy | A mixture for epoxy self-leveling floors is prepared on the basis of epoxy resin with a hardener and additives. A smooth glossy surface, similar to glass, is created with the help of such compounds. The coating is resistant to abrasion, aggressive media and water, but does not tolerate strong impacts. With its help, the so-called 3D (3D) floors are created, among other things. | |
| methyl methacrylate (MMA) | Composition based on methacrylic acid methyl ester. It has a high polymerization rate and is used not so much for leveling, but to increase the durability, water resistance, chemical resistance and impact protection of concrete substrates. Forms a polymer concrete coating. It is applied on industrial objects and in places of the increased passableness. The compositions are difficult to use, toxic, dangerous, harden very quickly, expensive. | |
| acrylic-cement | The polymer composition with the addition of cement combines the properties of the first and second, i.e. provides an even plane, resistance to low temperatures and the ability to pour a thick layer without the risk of peeling and cracking. Such compositions are adapted for use at industrial facilities, but the pouring technology itself requires highly skilled workers. | |
| polyurethane-cement | A polymer mixture that provides a layer that combines the properties of polyurethane and cement self-leveling floors. Those. this is a very durable coating, non-slip, abrasion resistant. In addition, it can be applied on inclined planes without the risk of wave formation. | |
| cement | A mixture based on cement and other additives, which is used primarily for tiling, as well as other materials. Differs in high hardness and long term of curing. | |
| gypsum | Based on gypsum and other fillers for leveling the floor in dry rooms with subsequent finishing of the coating. It dries quickly, but the surface is highly abraded. Does this floor need to be primed before tiling? Necessarily! This must be done for all mineral coatings. | |
| Floor thickness | thin-layer | Layer up to 1 mm. For finishing. |
| self leveling | Layer 4-5 mm. To form the main plane. | |
| highly filled | Layer more than 5 mm. For leveling the surface and creating decorative effects. | |
| Accounting for the location of the work plane | in an apartment (in a house) | If we consider the self-leveling floor as an independent coating, then solutions based on epoxy resins with or without acrylic dye, but with a canvas backing with a pattern, are suitable for the home. In all other cases, the use of either cement or gypsum compositions is relevant. |
| on the street | Such a coating must be frost-resistant, withstand exposure high temperature, sudden temperature changes and exposure to moisture. It is possible to use cement, polyurethane and acrylic-cement self-leveling floors. Based on manufacturer's recommendations. | |
| In bathroom | For subsequent tiling, compositions based on mineral binders are suitable: cement or complex (on cement and gypsum). As independent coatings, polyurethane and epoxy compounds can be used (with dyes or to create a 3D effect). | |
| in the bath | In this situation, the solution, as with the bathroom, only the requirements for compliance with the technology are even higher. It is advisable to completely abandon gypsum compositions, despite the fact that they will be shielded from a wet room with tiles. The construct is determined by the specific base material: for a wooden floor and a concrete floor, different compositions must be used. | |
| in the toilet | It is appropriate to use polymer compositions to create self-sufficient coatings: they stirred, poured, quickly leveled, and in a day you can walk on the floor. Under tiles, it is traditionally better to use mixtures on a mineral binder, such as gypsum or cement. | |
| in the kitchen | In the kitchen, use polyurethane or epoxy compounds with the addition of acrylic dye. So you can create a seamless, perfectly flat surface. desired color. If subsequent coating is intended for laminate, linoleum or the like, then the use of cement- or gypsum-based compositions can be considered. In this case, you need to build on the cost, consumption of materials and the time available for work. | |
| on the balcony | Any polymer compositions are suitable, it is advisable to choose options with a matte surface so that the floor is not slippery. It is also possible to apply compositions on cement base and it is desirable to avoid gypsum mixtures. | |
| in the garage | For a garage, it is appropriate to use polyurethane self-leveling floors with a layer of 5 mm or more, i.e. self leveling. Suitable polyurethane-cement compounds or just cement mixtures. | |
| in stock | The best solution is to form a protective layer with a solution of methyl methacrylate. This will create a durable thin coating. Preliminary leveling of the base is necessary, because. MMA hardens quickly and will not allow you to create a perfectly flat plane with it. Cement, epoxy and polyurethane compounds are also used. | |
| in gym | You can consider the use of almost any polymer solutions depending on the initial state of the floor surface in the gym. As an option, a thin-layer polyurethane coating, polyurethane-cement. Or cement - for subsequent finishing. | |
| Accounting for base material | on a wooden base (wooden floor, boards, old parquet) | It is necessary to install a floating reinforced screed from 40 mm based on cement and sand (in most cases), unless otherwise provided by the manufacturer of the mixture. |
| on plywood | ||
| on penoplex | ||
| on a warm water floor | Any mineral mixtures, polymers are best used as a finishing layer. | |
| on a concrete screed (on concrete) | Any. | |
| for bitumen | It is recommended to remove the old material, because its presence increases the risk of cracks in the floor and the need to redo the work again. Another option is a floating screed, as for wooden bases. | |
| on hardboard | ||
| on old tiles | ||
| Accounting for the type of finish coating | under the tile | If in a wet room, then on a cement basis or a complex binder. If dry - any self-leveling floor on a mineral binder. |
| under the laminate | Gypsum or cement, you can also polymer, but you need to look at the cost - in most cases it will not be practical. | |
| under linoleum | ||
| Coating drying speed | 0.5-1 h | We are talking about the time after which you can walk on the coating, but do not apply Decoration Materials, if any are expected. MMA dries fastest. The gypsum floor can be used already in the first 2-4 hours. The polyurethane solution reaches the required conditions in 16-20 hours, epoxy - from a day, cement - from two. Completely dry such floors in 7-28 days. |
| 2-6 h | ||
| 16-24 hours | ||
| 24-48 hours | ||
| Mixture consumption | It can be from 0.8 to 2 kg per sq. m. with a layer of 1 mm. Most of all, the consumption of cement mixture, but it is also the cheapest. | |
* By by and large we will be interested only in cement, gypsum, polyurethane and epoxy compounds. Everything else is of limited use.
TOP 10 compositions for finishing under the coating
Starting to dive into the topic of self-leveling floors, you will come across a situation where there will be a lot more materials for simply leveling for subsequent finishing than just decorative coatings. Those. in fact, we are talking about about abandoning the use of a classic screed, pour out the solution, quickly level it and that's it. And this is a very convenient solution!
1. Prospectors Thick - from 230 rubles. (25 kg)
Cement-based self-levelling screed is used for leveling concrete bases, cement screed, etc. with large level shifts. Already from the name it is clear that the solution manifests itself best when creating thick-layer coatings. The use of this material is justified in any premises, subject to subsequent finishing. Material is different increased consumption, the layer turns out to be quite heavy, but this is offset by the durability and low hygroscopicity of the mixture. We recommend using this composition in the bathroom and garage, as well as outdoors under a canopy.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for internal (any humidity) and external works |
| Styling temperature | 5…30 °C |
| astringent | mineral, cement |
| Layer thickness | 30-80 mm |
| Compressive strength | 20 MPa |
| Color | grey |
| Solution pot life | 40 min |
| Hardening time * | 2 days |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.7 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 15.6 rubles |
| 14.7 m² | |
| from 312.8 rubles |
2. Prospectors Fast-hardening - from 270 rubles. (25 kg)
For living quarters, in the kitchen or in the hallway, it is more convenient to use a gypsum-based mixture, such as. The solution turns out to be quite mobile, and for 40 minutes it can be rolled out over a large area, obtaining a flat plane. A feature of all gypsum mixtures is that you can walk on the coating after a few hours, and for working on large areas, it becomes possible to use mechanized pouring. In this case, according to the assurances of the manufacturers, 4 hours is enough. This is a fairly popular mixture used by professional finishers.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for interior work (normal humidity) |
| Styling temperature | 5…30 °C |
| astringent | mineral, gypsum |
| Layer thickness | 5-100mm |
| Compressive strength | 15 MPa |
| Color | light gray |
| Solution pot life | 40 min |
| Hardening time | 4 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.4 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 15.2 rubles |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 17.8 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 304 rub. |
Would you like to learn more about the possibilities of this material and see the result obtained with its help? Then be sure to watch the next video.
3. Founding Skorline FK45R - from 280 rubles. (20 kg)
The mixture is made on the basis of a mineral binder with polymer additives and is intended for indoor use with normal humidity. Allows you to correct serious flaws in the base - the maximum layer thickness determined by the manufacturer is 100 mm. The mixture is designed for concrete and cement-sand surfaces, including for pouring "warm floor" systems. The main advantage is the speed with which the coating hardens - after 2 hours you can walk on it. Tiles can be laid after 3 days, other finishes - after 7 days, the operation of the base with a warm floor is recommended only after 28 days.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for interior work |
| Styling temperature | 5…40 °C |
| astringent | mineral, complex |
| Layer thickness | 2-100mm |
| Compressive strength | 15 MPa |
| Color | light gray |
| Solution pot life | 40 min |
| Hardening time | 2 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.3 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 18.2 rubles |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 15.3 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 364 rubles |
A small video from the manufacturer, which contains not only advertising, but also helpful information about the characteristics and technology of using the mixture Founds Skorline FK45R.
4. Unis Horizon Universal Quick-hardening - from 270 rubles. (20 kg)
Cement is used as a binder for the Eunice Horizon Universal Fast-hardening mixture, which means that the material is suitable for use in any premises, even wet ones. A successful combination of components determines high speed hardening - despite the type of binder, you can walk on the floor after 3 hours. Suitable for pouring on any substrate that is not subject to bending: concrete slab, cement strainer, plaster coating. It can be used for any finishing materials, as well as for underfloor heating. Like any cement mixture, it has a significant consumption, but this is largely offset by the affordable price and technical characteristics.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | |
| Styling temperature | 5…40 °C |
| astringent | mineral, cement |
| Layer thickness | 2-100mm |
| Compressive strength | 15 MPa |
| Color | grey |
| Solution pot life | 30 min |
| Hardening time | 3 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.6 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 21.6 rubles |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 12.5 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 432 rubles |
In a short video from the manufacturing company, it is proposed to familiarize yourself not only with the possibilities of the Eunice self-leveling floor, but also with the entire cycle of work.
5. Volma-Nivelir express - from 240 rubles. (20 kg)
With the Volma-Nivelir Express mixture, you can get a solution with excellent mobility and a fairly long pot life. Despite the consistency of the solution, the layer formed by it hardens rather quickly - you can walk on it already after 6 hours, and after a week you can start finishing. Well, one of the most important advantages: this mixture can be used in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen and other rooms.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for interior work (in rooms of any type) |
| Styling temperature | 5…30 °C |
| astringent | mineral, complex |
| Layer thickness | 5-100mm |
| Compressive strength | 15 MPa |
| Color | white |
| Solution pot life | 60 min |
| Hardening time | 4-6 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.25 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 15 rub. |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 16 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 300 rub. |
We offer you to watch a short video-advertising from the manufacturer. Obviously, you should not expect any negative from the branded video.
And now directly to the practice of using the mixture + there is a small comparison with the Prospectors mixture.
6. Bergauf Easy Boden - from 340 rubles. (25 kg)
If there is an inexplicable desire to use a material with a "German" name, then it is quite possible to consider floor mix. Cement is used as a binder, which means that the self-leveling floor can be poured not only in the living room, but also in the bathroom. Like many similar compounds, it can be applied manually or mechanically, on a concrete or other rigid base, as well as a "warm floor". For any finish, from tiles to parquet.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for interior work (in rooms of any type) |
| Styling temperature | 5…25 °C |
| astringent | mineral, cement |
| Layer thickness | 6-50mm |
| Compressive strength | 12.5 MPa |
| Color | light gray |
| Solution pot life | 30 min |
| Hardening time | 4-8 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.5 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 20.4 rubles |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 16.6 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 408 rubles |
This type of self-leveling floor is poured a little more slowly. Manufacturers focus on the ease of use of the solution and the ability to save money by refusing the services of employees.
7. Knauf-Tribon - from 320 rubles. (30 kg)
This material was included in our list not by chance. The fact is that the manufacturer claims the possibility of using the mixture when pouring not only concrete, but also wooden bases, because. has high bending strength. A mixture of Portland cement and gypsum is used as a binder, the coating is suitable for dry and wet rooms subject to additional finishing. The solution is characterized by high viability, which allows covering large areas at a time. You can walk on a flooded plane after 6 hours, and after a day - and completely load it. For all types of premises!
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | |
| Styling temperature | 5…35 °C |
| astringent | mineral, cement+gypsum |
| Layer thickness | 10-60mm |
| Compressive strength | 15 MPa |
| Color | light gray |
| Solution pot life | 60 min |
| Hardening time | 6 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.7 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 18.1 rubles |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 17.6 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 362 rubles |
What is the solution in action, including when pouring over wooden bases- in a short video from the manufacturer.
8. Perfecta Lightlayer - from 270 rubles. (20 kg)
The special feature of the mixture is the combination of low consumption, fiber reinforcement and versatility. With all this, the material already hardens in 2 hours to a state in which you can walk on the floor. But more importantly, you have the opportunity to create a layer whose thickness is in the range from 1 to 100 mm, i.e. its properties are somewhat similar to finishing composition. Designed for application on all types of bases with a strength of more than 10 MPa (concrete, gypsum) with subsequent finishing with any floor coverings.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for interior work (in any premises) |
| Styling temperature | 5…30 °C |
| astringent | mineral, cement+gypsum |
| Layer thickness | 1-100mm |
| Compressive strength | 15 MPa |
| Color | light gray |
| Solution pot life | 60 min |
| Hardening time | 2 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.2 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 16.2 rubles |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 16.6 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 324 rubles |
9. BOLARS Finishing SV-1010 - from 340 rubles. (20 kg)
A mixture based on cement Bolars Finishing SV-1010 is used as a finishing layer for final leveling. Although it is thin-layered, high compressive strength is ensured, and after 6 hours the surface can be walked on. But the most remarkable thing is that the composition can be used for any type of premises, as well as for outdoor work. A properly prepared solution spreads well over the surface, while its viability is low - skill is needed to create a perfectly even coating.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for interior and exterior works (for finishing) |
| Styling temperature | 5…30 °C |
| astringent | mineral, cement |
| Layer thickness | 0.1-10mm |
| Compressive strength | 20 MPa |
| Color | grey |
| Solution pot life | 30 min |
| Hardening time | 6 h |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.6 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 27.2 rubles |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 12.5 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 544 rubles |
10. Weber.Vetonit 3000 - from 580 rubles. (20 kg)
More economical Weber. Vetonit 3000 (but not the price) than the predecessor of Vetonit 3000 allows you to apply the solution literally on the shir. The finished coating is not afraid of moisture, which means that the material is ideal for any interior work. It dries pretty quickly - the result of the work can be assessed in a matter of hours. A great option for large rooms, where the deviation from the geometry immediately catches the eye. Of the technological features, it is necessary to note the narrow temperature range of application of the solution.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for interior work (in any premises) |
| Styling temperature | 10…25 °C |
| astringent | mineral, cement |
| Layer thickness | 0-5 mm |
| Compressive strength | 20 MPa |
| Color | grey |
| Solution pot life | 30 min |
| Hardening time | 3-4 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.5 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 43.5 rubles |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 13.3 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 870 rubles |
In the video below, you can evaluate how the prepared Vetonit 3000 solution behaves.
Editor's Choice
We analyzed the most interesting parameters of the mixtures presented and summarized everything in a small table.
| Mixture name | For any premises | Layer thickness, mm | Viability, min | Hardening time, h | Consumption at a layer of 1 mm, kg/m² | Price for a layer of 1 mm, rub./m² |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| + | 30-80 | 40 | 48 | 1,7 | 15,6 | |
| — | 5-100 | 40 | 4 | 1,4 | 15,2 | |
| — | 2-100 | 40 | 2 | 1,3 | 18,2 | |
| Unis Horizon Universal Fast Hardening | + | 2-100 | 30 | 3 | 1,6 | 21,6 |
| Volma-Nivelir Express | + | 5-100 | 60 | 4-6 | 1,25 | 15 |
| + | 6-50 | 30 | 4-8 | 1,5 | 20,4 | |
| + | 10-60 | 60 | 6 | 1,7 | 18,1 | |
| + | 1-100 | 60 | 2 | 1,2 | 16,2 | |
| BOLARS Finishing SV-1010 | + | 0,1-10 | 30 | 6 | 1,6 | 27,2 |
| weber.vetonit 3000 | + | 0-5 | 30 | 3-4 | 1,5 | 43,5 |
For ordinary rooms, we recommend using the inexpensive Osnovit Skorline FK45R mixture. It is characterized by a wide range of coating thicknesses and a viability that allows even a beginner to cope with the mortar. For all other cases, you can choose between Volma-Nivelir Express and Perfekta Lightlayer - affordable materials with low consumption. Perfect for bathrooms, toilets, kitchens and more.
TOP 6 mixtures without the need for finishing - fill and forget!
With the help of self-leveling floors, you can create a truly durable coating that is resistant to abrasion, impact loads, and aggressive chemicals. Such floors are relevant in industry, warehouses, etc. objects. They are expensive, but the result is simply phenomenal!
11. Politek (PU-2340) - from 10650 rubles. (30 kg)
The Polytech System plant has been producing mixtures for polymer self-leveling floors since 2005. Production capacity located in the city of Kosterevo (Vladimir region), warehousing products in Moscow. Delivery is carried out throughout Russia. Resins and hardeners from certified suppliers from Germany and Korea are used in the production.
To obtain a heavy-duty self-leveling floor, PoliTek System offers a two-component composition based on polyurethane - PolyTek PU-2340. The material allows within a day to create a seamless thin-layer coating with high rates of plasticity, resistance to abrasion, and aggressive substances.
It is especially important to quickly achieve maximum strength. At an air temperature of 20 °C, after 12 hours after application, the layer is able to withstand pedestrian traffic, after 3 days - light traffic, after a week - full traffic.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for garages, warehouses, hospitals, public buildings and industrial plants |
| Styling temperature | 5-30°C |
| astringent | polymer, polyurethane |
| Layer thickness | 1-2 mm |
| Tensile strength | 7 MPa |
| Color | tinted according to RAL K7 K5 CLASSIC |
| Solution pot life | 40 min |
| Hardening time | |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.5 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 533 rub. |
| 20 m² | |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 10650 rub. |
12. GLIMS HEAVY DUTY HD drymix - from 1500 rubles. (25 kg) + Hd disp - from 1000 rubles. (4.5 kg)
An expensive but highly durable industrial floor can be poured with GLIMS HEAVY DUTY two-component mix. This coating has high compressive and bending strength, so it is ideal for workshops, warehouses, parking lots, garages, etc. objects where there are heavy loads on the floor and serious requirements are placed on the coating. The solution can be tinted at your discretion, so that it can be not only strong, but also a decorative coating.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for industrial facilities |
| Styling temperature | not lower than 10 °C |
| astringent | mineral, cement |
| Layer thickness | 5-12 mm |
| Compressive strength | 55 MPa |
| Color | grey, tinted |
| Solution pot life | 20-25 min |
| Hardening time | 24 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 2 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 169.5 rubles. |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 14.7 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 3390 rub. |
13. Weber.Vetonit 4655 Industry Flow Rapid - from 2000 rubles. (25 kg)
At any industrial site with heavy traffic, where there is a need for a resistant thin coating, a mixture can help out. Such a coating can withstand a full load already a week after pouring! But this imposes some restrictions on the time of using the solution - its viability does not tolerate errors and is some 15 minutes. But you can walk on such a floor after 2-4 hours, and the cost of the material looks more advantageous compared to the previous position.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for industrial facilities |
| Styling temperature | 10-25°C |
| astringent | mineral, cement |
| Layer thickness | 2-20mm |
| Compressive strength | 40 MPa |
| Color | grey |
| Solution pot life | 15 minutes |
| Hardening time | 2-4 h |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.7 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 136 rubles |
| Area per 1 bag with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 14.7 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 2720 rub. |
14. ilmax 6650 - from 550 rubles. (25 kg)
If we are not talking about catastrophically large loads, then you can save a lot by using the possibilities of a mixture for self-leveling industrial floors. Perfectly suitable, for example, for covering the floor in the garage, because. the composition is adapted exclusively for internal work. Firstly, such a solution can be applied in a rather thick layer, hiding even serious irregularities in the base coat. Secondly, it is much cheaper than the above predecessors! Another thing is that such material is not available everywhere.
15. Monopol 5 - from 9500 (30.6 kg)
If all previous materials had a cement binder in their composition and, accordingly, the coating turned out to be uniformly matte, then Monopol 5 is a polymer material with a semi-matt surface. For its preparation, three components are needed: epoxy resin, dye and hardener - which are mixed immediately before pouring the floor. And its nature does not at all make the coating less hard, judge for yourself: after a week, the compressive strength reaches 64 MPa!
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | |
| Styling temperature | 15-30°C |
| astringent | polymer, epoxy resin |
| Layer thickness | 2-3 |
| Compressive strength | 64 MPa |
| Color | tinted |
| Solution pot life | 15 minutes |
| Hardening time | 72 h |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 2 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 620.9 rubles |
| Area per 1 package with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 15.4 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 12418 rub. |
16. Teping Floor 205 PU - from 5600 rubles. (12 kg)
Polyurethane self-leveling floor - a two-component composition that allows you to create a durable plastic coating that normally perceives shock, vibration loads in conditions of sudden temperature changes. The material is intended for interior work in in public places and at industrial facilities. Great option for unheated warehouse or garage. By default, it forms a glossy coating, but the technology allows mixing quartz sand in order to obtain a visible texture and save the main mixture.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for industrial and civil facilities |
| Styling temperature | 10-30°C |
| astringent | polymer, polyurethane |
| Layer thickness | 1-3 mm |
| Compressive strength | 75 MPa |
| Color | grey, tinted |
| Solution pot life | 25 min |
| Hardening time | 24 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.6 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 746.7 rubles |
| Area per 1 package with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 7.5 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 14933 rub. |
What have we chosen?
We compared essentially different products, so we have three leaders at once. And to make it clearer, all interesting characteristics summarized in a table.
| Mixture name | Layer thickness, mm | Viability, min | Hardening time, h | Consumption at a layer of 1 mm, kg/m² | Price for a layer of 1 mm, rub./m² | What is suitable for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Politek PU-2340 | 1-2 | 20 | from 10 | 1,5 | 533 | For industrial facilities, warehouses, parking lots. |
| GLIMS HEAVY DUTY | 5-12 | 20-25 | 24 | 2 | 169,5 | |
| weber.vetonit 4655 Industry Flow Rapid | 2-20 | 15 | 2-4 | 1,7 | 136 | |
| ilmax 6650 | 5-50 | 20-2 5 | 4 | 1,8 | 39,6 | For garages, workshops, balconies, cellars. |
| Monopol 5 | 2-3 | 15 | 72 | 2 | 620,9 | For chemical industries and civil facilities. |
| 1-3 | 25 | 24 | 1,6 | 746,7 |
TOP 6 mixtures for decorative finishing - not only durable, but also beautiful!
Self-leveling floors can be not only perfectly flat, strong and durable. They also often become one of the main elements of interior design - the area they occupy obliges to be dominant!
17. EpoxyTek (EP-2331) - from 11,100 rubles. (30 kg)
Another interesting composition from PoliTek Systems is EpoxyTek (EP-2331) epoxy-based self-leveling floor. This two-component composition can be used inside any premises where the strength and appearance of the flooring are increased requirements. The material is tinted in bulk according to the RAL color chart, used to create 3D floors.
The EP-2331 layer quickly hardens. It will take 5 to 10 days to reach maximum strength.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | in apartments, private houses and public buildings as a wear-resistant decorative coating |
| Styling temperature | 5-30°C |
| astringent | polymer, epoxy resin |
| Layer thickness | 1-2 mm |
| Compressive strength | 81 MPa |
| Color | tinted according to RAL |
| Solution pot life | 20 minutes |
| Hardening time | 10 hours to 10 days depending on load and temperature |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.5 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 592 rub. |
| Area per 1 package with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 20 m2 |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 11840 rub. |
18. Krasko Polymerstone-2 - from 7800 rubles. (20 kg)
For applying thin durable coating with a glossy surface, or, as it is also called "liquid linoleum", you can use a two-component polyurethane solution Krasko Polymerstone-2. With all its excellent mechanical qualities, it is perfectly tinted and can become part of any modern interior in an apartment or house. Often it is used to obtain perfectly flat surfaces in public places with high traffic. Quite quickly for such a composition it gains strength, can compete in cost with similar foreign-made products.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for all indoor areas |
| Styling temperature | from 5 °C |
| astringent | polymer, polyurethane |
| Layer thickness | 2-3 mm |
| Compressive strength | 60 MPa |
| Color | grey, tinted |
| Solution pot life | 40 min |
| Hardening time | 24 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.5 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 585 rub. |
| Area per 1 package with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 13.3 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 11700 rub. |
What does it look like according to the manufacturer? Watch a short video!
19. Arturo EP2500 - from 24400 rubles. (25 kg)
- far from the cheapest material from Holland, which allows you to get a seamless glossy finish in almost any color. It can be applied to everything from kitchens and bathrooms to kindergartens and industrial premises. To increase the thickness of the layer, it is possible to add quartz sand. This measure will also create a non-slip surface. Complete drying under normal conditions - a week.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for interior work (any premises) |
| Styling temperature | 15-30°C |
| astringent | polymer, epoxy resin |
| Layer thickness | 1-5 mm |
| Compressive strength | 90 MPa |
| Color | tinted |
| Solution pot life | 20 minutes |
| Hardening time | 16-24 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.6 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 1561.6 rubles. |
| Area per 1 package with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 15.6 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 31232 rub. |
20. Remmers Epoxy OS Color - from 30,700 rubles. (25 kg)
For all their high cost, polymer compositions are very popular in the construction of modern industrial and warehouse facilities. After all, the use of such materials as allows you to forget about the need for repairs for several years, provide the surface with the necessary properties of resistance to abrasion and at the same time create a perfectly even base. The solution will also be used when installing a high-quality floor in a garage or in a gym - not to mention ordinary rooms in an apartment or house.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for industrial and warehouse premises |
| Styling temperature | 10-30°C |
| astringent | polymer, epoxy resin |
| Layer thickness | 2-5 mm |
| Compressive strength | 60-80 |
| Color | tinted |
| Solution pot life | 25 min |
| Hardening time | 24 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.6 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 1965 rub. |
| Area per 1 package with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 15.6 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 39300 rub. |
21. Tikkurila Novopox LP - from 7700 (10 l)
If you are looking for something suitable for floors in unheated rooms (for example, you need a high-quality self-leveling floor on a balcony or in a basement), then the Finnish composition Tikkurila Novopox LP can help. This epoxy coating is designed specifically for concrete substrates and allows not only to protect concrete from external environment, but also to create a beautiful glossy surface in one of dozens of colors.
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for concrete bases in unheated rooms |
| Styling temperature | over 10 °C |
| astringent | polymer, epoxy resin |
| Layer thickness | 0.3-2mm |
| Compressive strength | 60-80 |
| Color | tinted |
| Solution pot life | 15 minutes |
| Hardening time | 24 hours |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1 l/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 770 rubles |
| Area per 1 package with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 10 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 15400 rub. |
22. Elakor-ED - from 11900 rubles. (35 kg)
Transparent tinted composition, like many other materials based on epoxy resin, allows you to create a wear-resistant coating. Relatively affordable cost allows you to use it for finishing apartments. For example, they often seal decorative elements (sequins, chips) or canvases to create a 3D effect. Excellent alternative to foreign analogues!
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Purpose | for interior decoration of premises of any type or under a canopy |
| Styling temperature | 5-25°C |
| astringent | polymer, epoxy resin |
| Layer thickness | 1.5-5mm |
| Compressive strength | 60-80 |
| Color | tinted |
| Solution pot life | 30 min |
| Hardening time | 72 h |
| Mixture consumption at a layer of 1 mm | 1.6 kg/m² |
| Price per m² with a thickness of 1 mm | from 544 rubles |
| Area per 1 package with a layer thickness of 1 mm | 21.8 m² |
| The cost of material for pouring 20 m² (thickness 1 mm) | from 10880 rub. |
Our choice
In fact, everything corny rests on the cost of the material. All polymer floors that are commercially available are produced using the same technologies. Difference in technical specifications there is, but it is not as noticeable as the difference in price. Our choice - EpoxyTech (EP-2331) and for glossy wear-resistant coatings and 3d floors, Krasko Polymerstone-2 for coating "liquid linoleum".
Cost of work
Everything that we have rated above is just material. We must not forget that finishers highly value their work, often no less than the solutions used. Actually, this is what you need to build on: pouring 1 sq. m surface 1 mm layer costs from 70 to 100% of the cost of the material needed to create such a coating. Add here the need for milling the base, impregnation, dust removal, grinding, and the turnkey price will triple the cost of the material.
Tools and materials
The list of tools includes equipment for mixing the solution (we do not consider it because of its versatility), its distribution over the surface, leveling the coating, and much more. What is needed for a self-leveling floor in your particular case?
Squeegee
Squeegee (squeegee) is a special notched trowel with a blade of steel (for mineral coatings) or rubber (for polymer coatings). You can do without such a tool, but when it is necessary to distribute a layer of solution over a large area, it is more convenient not to find it. All due to the fact that the size of the teeth allows you to achieve desired thickness layers in a short period of time. This is especially true for solutions with low viability and mobility, as well as in the case of thin-layer coatings.
The cost of a doctor blade depends on the material used, the width of the tool, and the presence of regulators to change the thickness of the self-leveling floor layer. So, a wooden squeegee 56 cm wide with a steel replaceable blade will cost about 3-4.5 thousand rubles. A steel product with two regulators will cost more - in the region of 4-6 thousand rubles. Well, if there is a need to vary the layer over a wide range, then a professional tool with six regulators can already cost 8-11 thousand rubles. Prices for doctor blades for working with polymer compositions are usually higher by 2-3 thousand rubles, due to the significant cost of a replaceable rubber sheet.
Needle roller
The needle roller is an indispensable thing. Because when the mixture is mixed with water and subsequently mixed, the solution is saturated with air, then this air remains there even after the floor is poured, subsequently forming pores. All this negatively affects the technical characteristics of the material. Using a roller, it is possible to quickly and easily remove air by simply rolling it over the already poured mass. By the way, with the help of this tool, even the distribution of material over the entire area is ensured.
The price depends on the width of the roller, the length of the handle and other options. One of the most affordable models with a width of 24 cm will cost you only 200-280 rubles, a width of 35 cm - around 300-400 rubles, a size of 60 cm - somewhere around 450-600 rubles.
Paint steppers
Despite its name, self-levelling flooring cannot simply be poured and allowed to dry. After all, at least in order to walk on it with a spiked roller, you need to stomp on the mixture. Despite the fact that in many videos "professionals" walk in ordinary boots, according to the technology it is necessary to use special sandals - paint shoes. This device is in the form of attached soles with spikes. Thanks to the latter, it is possible to avoid the formation of irregularities.
The cost of shoes is low, and its use for large pouring areas is fully justified - 600-800 rubles.
The damper edge tape is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the layer of the hardening mixture. The tape is made of foamed polyethylene and is attached around the perimeter of the room, thereby creating the necessary margin to increase the volume of the floor and prevent the formation of cracks.
It is sold in the form of rolls of 20, 25, 50 m. The cost depends on the width, thickness, length, the presence or absence of an adhesive layer. For example, prices for a roll of tape 20 m long, 50 mm wide and 8 mm thick start around 70-100 rubles. The same edge tape, but with an adhesive layer, will cost 160-300 rubles. In practice, the savings are not worth it to give up the convenience of using a material that does not require additional manipulations for fixing to the wall.
Benchmarks for installing beacons by level
The benchmark is a movable steel structure, which is used in tandem with the same device and allows you to set the beacons on the level. The solution is rather unpopular - the cost of such devices ranges from 700 to 1000 rubles. In addition, it is difficult to find them - it is easier to do something similar on your own.
Another thing is that professionals have long abandoned benchmarks in favor of using a laser level. It's much more convenient and more accurate. Issue price - from 3 thousand rubles.
About other materials that may be useful
- Chips (flocs). They are dried pieces of multi-colored paint that look spectacular in a transparent layer of epoxy or polyurethane self-leveling floor. The cost varies between 1000-1500 rubles. per kg. Consumption depends on the technology and varies from 20-80 g to 700 g per sq. m. Or in rubles it is about 20-200 rubles. up to 700-1000 rubles. per sq. m. The decision, to be honest, is not for everyone.
- Lacquers and paints. Usually, nothing is added to polymer compositions, unless this is due to some unusual design project. On mineral self-leveling floors, you can apply paint intended for concrete floors - the choice here is huge.
Just a couple of words about 3D floors
In search of information about self-leveling floors in principle, you will repeatedly come across proposals for the manufacture of so-called 3D coatings. The bottom line is to perfectly align the base, print the canvas with a pattern, smooth it and stick it, apply a layer of transparent epoxy on top. The result looks impressive, the cost of work is high - from 4000-6000 rubles / m². As photo wallpapers were popular at one time, so today such 3D floors. We recommend that you refrain from such experiments in favor of monochrome solutions, because, as practice shows, if the pattern is too complex and does not fit perfectly into the design, it will dominate the interior, and its very presence will lead to increased fatigue.
Leveling the concrete floor is necessary for laying the subsequent decorative coating. Therefore, this is an important part of the improvement of the premises, which includes classic and modern ways leveling, such as wet and dry screed, pouring the composition and falling asleep multi-component mixtures.
Peculiarities
In apartments where people live for a long time, the upper part concrete pavement the floor is gradually broken, sometimes coming into disrepair. In this case, it is mandatory to carry out a major overhaul of either the entire floor, or a separately leaky part of it.
In new houses concrete screeds floors tend to be better prepared and look smoother. But here, too, it is necessary to take into account individual shortcomings that arise in the places where individual plates are joined to each other. And when buying such an apartment, residents most often have to additionally carry out minor repairs. Before starting repair work, careful measurements, cleaning and other types of floor preparation for leveling are carried out.
The preparatory stage includes the removal of the outer coating and the inspection of all uneven places and crevices found. Some of the defects exist in houses from the moment of construction and then become even more aggravated during operation.
The height of the concrete pavement should ideally be the same over the entire floor area. To determine this indicator, a long tool is used, which is called the level. Often, modern devices are also connected to the process - laser builders or water levels.
Preliminary measurements reveal, first of all, two main parameters - the highest point on the surface and the most extensive and deep dent. The gap between them is to be evenly filled with concrete or other material.
It is necessary to raise the sagging places to the maximum level, counting from zero - between the horizon and the floor plane. Only after that, linoleum or tile, parquet or laminate is applied to the subfloor. At the same time, we must not forget that all parts of the interior are interconnected: if the coating is excessively raised, it may be difficult to open doors and operate heating batteries. In order not to redo the work twice, these factors must be taken into account in advance.
What is better to equalize?
The ideal material for leveling, according to many experts, has not yet been invented. Putty can eliminate small roughness, putty and cover chips conveniently and with the help of tile adhesive.
A liquid mixture of concrete and water combined with other fibers is an excellent leveling agent for small dents. For preparation as a filler of the sand-concrete composition, cement grade M-400, sand and thinner are used. A building mixer mixes all the components, since it is rather difficult to achieve a high-quality leveler manually.
Significant defects are leveled with cement mortar, achieving results even in case of serious damage to the concrete base during construction. The gypsum composition is used to fix metal guides in the screed process, the so-called lighthouses. At home, when doing do-it-yourself repair work, ready-made dry mixes and polystyrene concrete are preferred, combining synthetic plasticity and fast, durable hardening after application. In the case of using a universal ready-made or mixed mixture of concrete and sand obtained in a mixer, the poured floor is subjected to additional grinding with a special machine.
Work technology
A completely smooth and even floor looks beautiful and elegant, while a curved flooring detracts from the aesthetic perception of the entire room or kitchen. In progress overhaul the floors in the house are the last to be dismantled, and they are the first to be put in order. If a total leveling of surfaces is carried out during the preparatory work, the floor is first leveled, and then they move on to the walls and ceiling.
Among the common defects in the floor screed in both private and multi-storey buildings of a standard layout, experts call:
- Local minor errors that look like level "swells" that create irregularities on the floor.
- Changes and drops in the form of periodic, especially noticeable on the surface of finding waves from concrete or other material. In private buildings, such waves on the floor can be quite significant, up to several centimeters.
- Small wave drops or "chill". These defects usually remain after the use of a building tool - the rule.
- Small cracks, lenses and caverns, protruding pieces of rubble, as evidence of the destruction of the floor. In this case, it becomes unsafe to move around the house, it is impossible to securely fix furniture and household appliances. In addition, the ability of the coating to provide insulation from noise, odors and excess moisture is lost.
The floor needs to be cleaned, putty bumps and chipped parts. In order to reduce the consumption of a concrete-based leveling compound or not to break a plywood sheet, large bumps are knocked down with a chisel.
Leveling methods used by builders: the use of concrete or dry screed on pre-set beacons or without them, as well as the method bulk coating gender. The correct choice of method depends on the magnitude of the differences between the maximum and minimum levels.
If the irregularities are minor, up to two or three centimeters, a technology such as arranging a self-leveling floor is suitable. This is an expensive method, since a significant amount of leveling mixture is used per square meter of area. Therefore, dry screed or alignment with beacons is most often used.
In order to make a screed based on a sand-concrete mixture with high quality, metal slats are laid on the base, which will indicate guidelines for movement during the screed. The process is labor-intensive, but it allows you to even out potholes and differences of several centimeters, to make the coating perfect in any room.
Step by step, the work is carried out as follows. Necessary:
- Prepare the floor by removing oil stains and dirt.
- Lay waterproofing material, gluing the joints. Leave allowances along the walls of the room.
- Using a level, mount metal guides - beacons. The distance between them is allowed no more than one meter, otherwise it will be more difficult to level the surface.
- Prepare a concrete-sand mixture, preferably immediately for the entire area to be poured. Stirring time - from an hour to an hour and a half, so that the composition does not harden. Most often, a building automatic mixer is used, bringing the composition to a semi-liquid state. The finished mixture should only spread slightly to the sides without spreading.
- Alignment is done from a distant corner, in small parts, using a rule. Applying the mixture, it is immediately leveled. To securely close all dents, the mixture is scattered on the sides, and not just along the guides. In order not to form air gaps, each layer of the screed must be pierced with a metal knitting needle.
- A thick screed is reinforced with other material, and special seams are also cut for shrinkage. The distance between them is selected up to three meters. After that, the flooded surface is left for about a day. After this time, the screed must be moistened with water from the sprayer and left for another two days. Then you can check whether the sand concrete mixture has solidified well.
- At the next stage, the surface is moistened again, a polyethylene film is placed on top to protect it from cracks.
- Over the next week, daily moistening of the screed is required, then the film is removed, leaving the floor to dry naturally. The process of complete drying takes at least a week or even two.
- The dry finished surface has a uniform grey colour. Tapping it with a block of wood causes the layer to sound the same anywhere on the floor.
- If the alignment is done qualitatively, you can proceed with the installation of the coating of laminate, linoleum, and parquet. Tiles can be laid simultaneously with the last layer of screed.
When performing alignment, one should not rush too much, but it is also undesirable to delay the procedure. Cold seams may appear. Therefore, it is recommended, especially in the case of a large room, to invite an assistant and work together.
Material
Whatever the main coating is laid - tiles, parquet boards or linoleum, auxiliary materials are used to level the floor. Most often, plywood, layers of concrete and GVL are placed under the flooring. Only in this case, the required quality is achieved - an impeccable surface, ready to serve for many years.
Sand and cement based screed refers to classic options, because it provides a flat surface even in those rooms where the differences reach four or more centimeters. Dry screed is provided with self-leveling mixtures based on quartz sand, granular particles and expanded clay, expanded polystyrene. flat surface give sheets of plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or gypsum fiber sheets that are resistant to moisture.
room
Leveling the floor, achieving the perfect coverage, is made with polystyrene concrete, wet or dry mix. This method, along with a cement-sand screed, well prepares the floor for laminate and parquet in the living room and bedroom, nursery or dining room. If the apartment is small-sized with a low ceiling, and the differences in the floor are not more than three millimeters, it is better to resort to a flooded floor, which will dry out after 12-14 hours. The entire process of laying the floor, as a rule, does not take more than two weeks.
A polyurethane-based filler floor is not intended for rooms with temperature fluctuations; it is better to use this method starting from the second floor. But he is great option rough base for laminate. Before applying the self-levelling compound, the floor must be thoroughly primed. Then the finished liquid composition is poured onto the floor, leveling with a spatula.
To eliminate air bubbles that cause coating defects, a needle roller is used, piercing the filled layer. The flooded floor dries in just 15 minutes, so you should do all the operations together with an assistant. Slows down the hardening of cold water, which moistens the coating.
If you have to lay linoleum, the surface must be absolutely flat. To ensure these goals, a method such as a dry screed for drops of no more than a centimeter and a half is suitable. If repairs need to be done quickly, strengthening the floor with almost no defects, leveling is done with sheets of plywood or chipboard. Strengthen them with self-tapping screws and dowels after gluing to the floor surface.
The self-levelling floor is a highly effective achievement in building technology. However, a do-it-yourselfer should take it for himself, thinking hard. The effectiveness of a spreading base for finishing flooring is not in its cheapness - the cost of components and equipment is significantly higher than for a traditional one. And not in the simplicity of the technology - the self-leveling floor is much stricter to the qualifications and conscientiousness of the performers. And not in the accuracy of alignment - an experienced worker will make the cement-sand base along the lighthouses no more inclined or humpbacked, and not in a hurry. And not in strength - pouring is weaker than concrete.
The self-leveling self-leveling floor has advantages that more than cover these shortcomings:
- The technological break after the formation of the screed is reduced from 20-40 days to 8-48 hours. What this means for the mass construction or renovation of a residential apartment, there is no need to explain.
- The cured coating is waterproof, i.e. has high hygienic properties.
- The texture of the finished surface is smooth, which, in combination with the previous one, allows you to lay almost any finish coating without a pillow: it will not rub off, “playing”, it will not dampen or rot.
- The elasticity and plasticity of the self-leveling base of the floor is several times higher than that of a purely mineral one, and the specific gravity is lower, which allows some of its types to be poured onto an existing wooden floor.
Therefore, it makes complete sense for those who still want to make a self-leveling floor with their own hands, to talk about some of the subtleties and nuances of this work, which are not sufficiently covered in the available sources or are completely hushed up. It is because of their ignorance of the home craftsmen who have taken up the "liquor" that failures lie in wait. And, alas, it is impossible to remake the “hedgehog” or “wave” coating: you have to knock down the entire litter to the carrier plate, which is equivalent. From what without extreme necessity - God forbid!
General remarks
First, all the methods described below will create a surface intended for finishing flooring. Self-levelling floors are not intended for painting or for independent use without fine floor coverings. Decorative self-leveling floor, incl. and the growing popularity of 3D floors is a completely separate issue.
Second, you need to work with a partner. And not with a random person, but with a good friend with whom you worked together. If the next batch does not ripen exactly by the time of its pouring (and the time is calculated in minutes), then the floor will come out not even, but stepped.
Third - for premises with an area of more than 40 square meters. m. or more than 8 m long, inexperienced workers are categorically not recommended to take. In such rooms / corridors one cannot do without temperature, deformation and technological seams. It is easy to arrange a seam, but where - either the experience of a very skilled craftsman or the exact calculation of a specialist builder is needed here.
Leveling the floor with a self-leveling mixture consists of the following steps:
- Revision of the underlying surface;
- The choice of alignment method;
- Choosing the right mixture;
- Calculation of thickness and volume of coating layers;
- Calculation of the mixture consumption;
- Foundation preparation;
- Preparation of the working mass (kneading);
- Filling the floor;
- Floor covering.
We do not describe the last stage here, because flooring is also a separate issue.
revision
Before the revision, all furniture must be removed from the room, skirting boards removed. If we will not pour on a wooden floor, remove the floor covering. Next, you need to thoroughly sweep the floor twice with a hard-bristled brush, pre-sprinkling with water. In conclusion - vacuum; household vacuum cleaner, so that it does not deteriorate from stone dust, it is connected through a factory or home-made (see the figure on the right) dust collector.
Self-levelling compounds are quite tolerant in the state of the underlying substrate. In most cases, they can be applied to the "litter" unless it is emergency - you just need to choose the right mixture and how to apply it. For the convenience of this very responsible procedure, it is advisable to evaluate the state of the "litter" by the following parameters:
- Strength;
- Humidity and moisture permeability of the base;
- Humidity in the room;
- Surface evenness, local and general;
- Load bearing capacity;
- Will there be a warm floor;
- Surface wear.
Strength
The strength of reinforced concrete floors in professional construction is determined by various types of impact or pressure tools: Kashkarov's hammer (manual), Schmidt's hammer (electronic with digital indication), ri-ri device (scratch). The essence of the method is the same: a tip made of a solid material of a strictly defined size and configuration is pressed into concrete with a precisely dosed force, and the strength is judged either by the degree of its deepening or by the size of the trace from it.
For yourself, you do not need to accurately determine the strength of the foundation. You just need to know whether it is suitable for filling without additional processing or not. The easiest way to do this is to use a roller glass cutter. If you have never cut glass before, “scratch” on the shard and remember the effort at which the scratch appears.
With approximately the same effort, you need to hold the roller on concrete. If the width of the scratch does not exceed the width of the roller (see figure), it is not necessary to harden the surface of the base. If the roller fails, either a thorough primer or surface repair is needed.
Base moisture
Whether the base is damp, check with a piece of plastic film about 1 sq. m. The check is done at a temperature of 15-25 degrees with the heating turned off, in clear, dry weather. The methodology is:
- Ventilate the room with the windows wide open for at least an hour.
- Windows and doors are closed, the film is laid in the center of the room, and its edges are pressed down with slats with weights.
- The middle of the film is slightly pulled up.
- Waiting for a day.
If the film remains dry - fine, you can pour it without any. If there is perspiration - you need to primer twice or thrice. If the fumes have collected in drops, it will be necessary, in addition to the primer, to lay waterproofing before pouring the floor, and it is better to refrain from leveling for the time being and repair the base.
Room humidity
For a self-leveling floor, it is not the relative humidity that matters (this is a physiological parameter), but the absolute content of water vapor in the air. Absolute humidity of more than 2% by volume is unacceptable for mixtures on gypsum, suitable for pouring onto a wooden floor.
With kitchens, hallways and bathrooms, everything is clear - they need a moisture-resistant cement-based floor. In living rooms, you can roughly determine by the linen: if in the off-season, when the temperature in the room with the heating off does not exceed 22 degrees, the linen does not get damp, i.e. the dew point is not reached, the room is suitable for pouring.
Base evenness
The size and depth of local (local) irregularities - cracks, potholes, seams between the plates - are simply determined: depth - with an even piece of lath or a special tool, a rule and a locksmith's ruler; the share of the area of local irregularities in the total - visually. With shrinkage hollows or bulges, the situation is more complicated, they are often simply not noticeable, but manifest themselves in the fact that a seemingly precisely calculated amount of the mixture is suddenly not enough, and all the work goes down the drain.
The method for self-detection of the general unevenness of the base is illustrated in the figure. The procedure is as follows: in different places, along, across and diagonally, we apply an ordinary bubble level 1 m long to the floor. We slip a match or a sliver under the lowered end until the bubble is exactly between the risks. The amount of unevenness per 1 lin. m in this area will be equal to the size of the gap between the end of the level and the floor. Most often in the center of the room there is a hole 3-7 mm deep.
Load bearing capacity
Since the self-leveling floor in many cases (wood, cinder block, vermiculite, shell rock, foam and aerated concrete) rests on a weaker base, not only the total, with a uniform load on the square, its bearing capacity matters, but also resistance to bursting. Wood and EPS are strong enough in this regard, but it is still impossible to pour the floor on them directly, you need to pour it on a fiberglass mesh. It can float up, so the mesh is seized in increments of 100-250 mm with drops of silicone or mounting glue.
For porous materials, and this is not enough, it will be necessary from 3-6 mm wire. The chain-link is not good, because. its knots are free and will not save from punching. There is, however, one positive point: the mesh can be laid on a sand cushion half the thickness of the wire, this will significantly reduce the consumption of expensive “liquor”.
Warm floor
There is an unpleasant nuance here: pipes in a leveler that has not yet hardened can also float; the same applies to all other immured communications. To avoid floating, the pipes are filled with water before filling. room temperature and seized with silicone, like a fiberglass mesh. Before pouring, cable boxes are attached to the base in a regular way.
Surface wear
Surface wear is, simply put, whether the floor itself is dusty or not. It is determined a day or three after the revision, because before it a thorough cleaning was done in dedusting. If indoors the floor is dusty again - cleaning again, and, right there, impregnation with a deep penetration liquid primer.
The primer is applied with a fibrous (shaggy) roller, without making puddles. It is better to take a primer that forms a film. After drying, they try to separate this film from the base. If it lags behind, they rip it all off and prime it again. If the film does not adhere firmly to the base and on the third layer, nothing can be done, you need to repair the ceiling, and only then pour it.
How to dub
Compounds that are sufficiently fluid to self-level to a smooth horizontal plane are called leveling or leveling masses. Maximum thickness of the leveling layer different manufacturers give in 12-15 mm, but this is in ideal conditions, about which further. It is highly desirable to limit yourself to a layer of level no thicker than 5-6 mm. This is also important because the level is very expensive.
Most often, a leveler is placed under the level - the mixture is coarser. If the batch of leveling agent is thrown out of the bucket, then it will freeze in a heap, it will only sag a little and spread. Therefore, the leveler has to be additionally leveled under the level, but it is cheaper, and the layer thickness can reach 60 mm for cement-based compositions and up to 150 mm for gypsum. With a leveler, the thickness of the layer of the level can, with careful work, be brought up to 2-3 mm.
Looking ahead, let's say that when filling the leveling agent, screw beacons are of great help, see fig. The solution is poured along the lower edges of their threaded pins, set in advance along a cord or a laser plane builder. The beacons are removed after the setting time of the solution is sufficient for technological movement, i.e. when it will be possible to walk on it for one person without a load.
The technological setting time is indicated in the instructions for the mixture. As a rule, it is about 8 hours. It must be observed; if, for example, you forget or give up and leave it in the morning, then the solution will completely harden, and you can no longer pull out the beacons.
Based on the foregoing, according to the results of the audit, you can choose a single-layer or two-layer floor leveling method:
- Smooth, no more than 3 mm of total unevenness, solid base - with one layer of level.
- The base is strong, but very uneven, with plate shifts, deep potholes - leveling layer according to the calculation, see below, then leveling. Depth is measured from the top of the largest bulge.
- Wooden base - a layer of gypsum leveling at least 30 mm, then also a gypsum level according to the thickness calculation, see below. We take gypsum mixtures, because their specific gravity is 20 percent lower than that of cement ones. Smoother and level - with fiber filler, also see below.
- For insulation in dry rooms - gypsum mixtures for fiberglass or reinforcing.
- In raw - cement mixtures, but always on a reinforcing mesh, due to the severity and less plasticity of cement compositions.
Note: it is impossible to give a layer of leveling agent, if only to hide the highest hillock. In order not to explain for a long time, try to put a brick in some vessel and fill it with liquid mud; it is similar in consistency, adhesion and fluidity to a leveling agent. In order for the contours of the brick to stop showing through, it will take quite a lot to pour over its height.
Blend selection
The manufacturer of the mixture as a selection factor is not of paramount importance. Recognized industry leaders - Knauff, Ceresit, Siltek, Vetonit, Prospector - have recently been heavily pressed by many outsiders, and, judging by the reviews, their products, with strict adherence to technology, raise even fewer complaints. We emphasize - if done exactly according to technology.
The main secret of self-leveling floors is not at all "secret" polymer additives and plasticizer additives. The main thing is the quality of mineral materials and their precise fractionation, and this can, in principle, be achieved in a barn on simple equipment. For example, a cement grade of at least 500 is needed for a level. Why? Its microgranules are smaller. Therefore, you need to choose a mixture, first of all, by the presence of accurate and detailed instructions, on the back of the bag or on the company website. What should be reflected in it will be clear after reading the article.
In general, the choice is determined, in addition to the price, by the properties of the base and the premises. Something has already been said about them, now let's take a closer look.
As already mentioned, dry ready mixes for self-leveling floors are cement or gypsum based. The former are heavier and more fragile, but moisture resistant. The latter are lighter and more plastic, but are afraid of moisture.
The next moment is a polymerizable binder. It can be either polyurethane (solution density of about 1.20 kg * l for gypsum mixtures and about 1.35 kg * l for cement) or epoxy (1.40 and 1.65 kg * l, respectively). Epoxy mixtures are stronger, but less fluid and plastic, it is advisable to use them for levelers or in rooms with a loaded floor - garage, bathroom, etc. It is better to take a polyurethane level for residential premises if it lies on the leveler; if directly on concrete - epoxy.
Then, fibrous filling. It (polymer or fiberglass) can either be added to the mixture or not. The first, of course, is more expensive, but the elasticity and plasticity of the finished coating increase significantly. Mixtures with microfiber filling must be used for pouring on insulation with fragile insulation (practically - any, except for EPPS; its load-bearing capacity for a dispersed load is 0.5 MPa or about 500 kg per sq. M), for dusty or for a wooden floor. Grids, which are mentioned above, this does not cancel; necessary mechanical properties the finished coating is provided only by a set of technological measures.
Next is the flooring. Under foam-based linoleum, marmoleum and tiles, you can do with just one leveler. Under the laminate, parquet and cork, you also need a leveling layer. He, due to increased plasticity, will win back on the deformation of the tree, and it will not rub against him, because. underlying surface is smooth.
And, finally, the last factor is the survivability of the solution, i.e. time during which it is available for work. This time varies for different mixtures within 15-40 minutes. You need to know that before the end of the filling, the entire flooded surface must still be “alive”; pour the floor of a large area to the "mirror" in pieces by hand, only a few of the pros can.
At the same time, at the maximum pace of work and complete coordination of actions with a partner, manual cyclic filling with a layer of 10 mm of floor area of 12 square meters. m. takes at least 20 minutes, and 16 square meters. m. - half an hour. Deaeration (see about pouring, below) will take about 5 more minutes; the capacity of one manual (drill with a mixing nozzle) batch should not be more than 30 liters. That is, in almost any living room, fast-hardening mixtures are applicable only if there is a continuous automixer and a pump for supplying a solution, which are expensive to rent, because. equipment wears out quickly.
Note: the pot life of the mortar can be increased by 15-20% by mixing the maximum amount of water according to the manufacturer's specification. But - only in the optimal temperature range, see below.
Layer calculation
First of all, we calculate the thickness of the “zero” layer, i.e. one that will give a flat horizontal surface, provided that the composition is absolutely fluid. Next, using the “zero” thickness, we calculate required power actual leveling layer. Thus, we will reduce the real complex relief of the base to some imaginary horizontal plane.
Why such difficulties? The fact is that any instruction for self-leveling compounds gives the specific consumption of the dry mix, in kg * sq. m, with a layer of 1 mm, based on pouring onto a flat horizontal surface. Actually, this parameter characterizes the ability of the mixture to spread, and it is difficult to calculate the true flow rate on the real surface from it, you have to give an extra technological margin.
For mass construction, this is not so important - there the customer will pay for the known excess or for the actual cost of implementation. And the surplus will go to the next object, not without benefit for the contractor. It is almost impossible for a do-it-yourselfer to sell the whole remaining bag of an expensive mixture, the expiration date of which is expiring. Half a bag is generally impossible, once the package is opened. Therefore, the cost must be calculated accurately.
The calculation for "zero" assumes that the work is done in stages: fill in "zero", wait for shrinkage. Pour the level with a minimum layer. Completely frozen, but the "bricks" are still visible? It's okay, pour a minimum more until you get a "mirror"; "zero" has already given the desired strength. Sometimes this method is also used by pros in cases of particular responsibility or when a serious customer is ready to pay for downtime, if only it was done perfectly.
Zero
We take the largest and smallest of the depths of local irregularities and find the average. Let's say the measurements gave 5 and 3 mm, then the average will be 4 mm. We multiply the obtained value by the apparent ratio of the area of potholes to the total floor area, we get the effective depth of local depressions. Suppose, by eye, the depressions occupy a quarter of its area, then the effective local depth in our case will be 1 mm.
Now let's determine the effective depth of the shrinkage trough. In the vast majority of cases, it extends over the entire floor area, and its configuration is similar to a segment of a sphere. Therefore, the depth of the hollow is simply multiplied by 0.7. Suppose the measurements gave 6 mm, then its effective depth will be 4.2 mm.
The total thickness of the zero fill layer will be equal to the sum of the effective local and total depths. In this case - 5.2 mm, but that's not all, we have just entered the virtual plane. The solution is not absolutely fluid, and in order not to show the “brick-in-dirt effect”, a cover layer must be poured onto the resulting plane. It can be both from the leveling agent and leveling, after the leveling agent hardens. The latter is preferable not only in terms of smoothness, but also because it is cheaper: the minimum leveling layer is from 3 mm, and the leveling layer is from 1 mm.
Cover
The thickness of the cover layer is considered quite simply. We take a completely reliable value - specific consumption according to the manufacturer; it lies in the range of 1.4-2 kg * sq. m * mm, multiply by 2 and round up to a larger value. This empirical formula gives nothing more than the number of layers of minimum thickness, according to the specification for the composition, necessary for the "bricks" to completely swim in the "mud". Suppose we have previously selected a composition with a specific consumption of 1.8 kg * sq. M * mm, then we get 3.6 or, rounded off, 4 layers. Since the minimum layer for leveling masses is 1 mm, we immediately received the power of the “cover”.
Increases
However, it is too early to calculate the consumption if a mesh and / or base waterproofing is used. We add a leveler layer to the mesh equal to its thickness (or half of it, if the mesh is reinforcing on a sand cushion, see above), and to the insulation of the corners - a leveler to the thickness of the foam corner tape, more about it later. Let's say we will pour on a fiberglass mesh with a thickness of 0.38 mm, and put a tape 3.5 mm thick on the corners, then we need to add 3.88 mm to the leveler.
Outcome
We summarize everything together for a single-layer filling, and for a two-layer one - separately for the leveling and leveling. Suppose we are going to pour in 2 layers, then in this case we get 5.2 + 3.88 = 9.08 or, rounding off, 9 mm leveling layer, and then 4 mm leveling layer. According to generally accepted calculation methods, 12 mm and 6 mm would have come out, respectively.
Consumption
It remains to calculate the consumption per 1 m² of the selected mixture. This is where the main highlight of the method appears: we get the flow rate immediately in the dry weight of the sales material, without fiddling with the calculation of the density of the finished solution, for which arbitrary assumptions would have to be made. We just need to multiply the calculated thickness of the layers by the floor area and the specific material consumption; All these values are accurate and reliable.
In our example, for a room, say, 16 sq. m will be 259.2 kg of leveling and 72 kg of leveling. It remains to be reduced to bags in which 25 kg. We round them according to the rules of arithmetic, from half to more. The calculation according to our data will give 10.368 bags of leveling and 2.88 bags of leveling. We take 10 bags of the first and 3 - of the second.
And now for the homework: go to the website of any hardware store, find out the prices and calculate the savings compared to traditional estimates.
Foundation preparation
Bulk floor leveling technology is generally more lenient on the state of the base than conventional or. Except for one moment - the moisture content of the base. Water vapor, pushing through the filling, destroys the polymer films between the granules of the mixture, and the coating begins to crumble. Therefore, it is highly desirable, in any case, to arrange a waterproofing with a wide vent around the perimeter before pouring, so that evaporation does not penetrate into the equalizer. How? More on that below.
Concrete
Preparation of a concrete base for pouring includes the following operations:
- Closing cracks.
- Primer.
- Waterproofing.
- Thermal insulation and mesh laying.
The primer and the mesh have already been mentioned; thermal insulation - . Sealing of cracks with waterproofing is the same, but for filling in these operations there are features that we will consider.
Small cracks are closed in the usual way. If there are gaping (2 mm and wider) and active, located along the perimeter and diagonals, then you must first check by non-destructive testing methods whether the entire overlap is destroyed. If so, what is the alignment here, the house is emergency.
If not, then in the process of cutting cracks, cuts are made perpendicular to them with a width of 2-3 mm, a depth of 40-50 mm and a length of 150-200 mm, in increments of 200-250 mm. The cuts will create technological seams that “smear” the load. They are sealed along with cracks.
Now about waterproofing. It is almost always needed, a zero test result for floor moisture is the rarest exception, and even then the situation may change, especially if the house is new. Firstly, polyethylene cannot be laid under a continuous coating, moisture diffuses through it. The floor filled with leveler should breathe only around the perimeter, so a waterproofing or other special material is needed. But before laying the film, you need to paste over the corners.
The corners are covered with polystyrene foam tape. She, in addition to an outlet for fumes, will also create a deformation seam. Foam tape is available in different types, incl. to create hidden expansion joints in concrete monoliths, but we need a special one for corners. It can be recognized by its color (not white), smaller thickness (3-5 mm) and, most importantly, by the groove extruded along the axis, along which it bends, see fig. The tape is glued with silicone drops in increments of 100-250 mm; nitro glue can corrode it.
Tree
Wooden flooring must first be tested for play. To do this, use a plumb line in a tripod hastily made from improvised materials (pipes, rails, fishing rods) with a height of at least 1.5 m. The device is installed in the center of the room. The nose of the plumb bob should almost touch the floor; a sheet of paper with a drawn cross, concentric circles, etc. is slipped under it. markers.
Then they walk around the room, watching the deviation of the load. More precisely - behind the slope of the floor, because. the load is still hanging vertically. The value of the floor play is related as the height of the suspension to the length or width of the room, depending on which side the largest deviation is noticed. The limit value is 1.2 mm per 1 m of the corresponding size; if more, the flooring needs to be sorted out or completely removed and poured over the base.
For example, a tripod 1.8 m high; room 2.5x4 m. The largest deviation of 2 mm in length was recorded. General game(4/1.8)*2 = 4.44 mm. There are 1.11 mm per 1 m of length, you can fill it.
Note: the room to be checked must be completely empty.
Next, we open any board (or a parquet slab, or a laminate slab) against the wall that is most suspicious of moisture, and make an audit of its underside and log, if the flooring is laid on the logs. Suddenly, traces of dampness, rot, mold, a bug are found - again, we postpone the alignment and deal with the flooring.
If everything is OK with the stability and integrity of the flooring, then you need to putty the cracks with sawdust mixed with liquid nails until sour cream is thick. You can also use ready-made putty on wood, but not water-based. Roughly planed wedges are driven into wide (wider than 2 mm) slots before puttying and then planed flush with the surface. Now it remains to paste over the corners with foam tape, put waterproofing, as for concrete, and mesh, as already described. We remind you that wood leveler is needed on gypsum and polyurethane with microfiber.
batch
To properly make a self-leveling floor, kneading is the most delicate and responsible procedure. The vast majority of irreparable errors occur at this stage, so let's take a closer look.
Temperature
Manufacturers indicate the operating temperature range for their mixtures. As a rule, it is 15-30 degrees. A floor flooded in the cold will not gain the required strength (water will begin to destroy polymers before it evaporates) and will soon begin to crumble. Neglect of temperature conditions is one of the most common causes leading to marriage.
Filling in the heat is even worse - the water evaporates too quickly, and the composition does not have time to spread. Mixtures are very sensitive to temperature rise. For example, even such a proven composition as ProfLine PR-1, filled in at 32 degrees, freezes like a hedgehog.
Best before date
The permissible shelf life of mixtures in packaging is from six months to a year. If there is no stamp with a date on the bag, but a tick is placed in the month box, one month is subtracted, because it is not known whether it was made on the first or last day. For example, if March is ticked, and the expiration date is 6 months, then from September 1, the mixture is considered unusable, no matter what the seller says.
Note: merchants are just trying to put bags with an expiring shelf life in plain sight.
Water
In the specifications for the mixture, the amount of water for mixing is specified with some tolerance, for example, 0.28 l / kg +/- 0.03 l / kg. The admission is given not on a tyap-blunder. In favorable temperature conditions (18-24 degrees), it is used to regulate the fluidity and survivability of the solution. If the temperature is near the upper/lower limit, then the mixture is adjusted to the temperature due to the tolerance. In the cold they give water to a minimum, in the heat - to the maximum. But trying to fend off an unsuitable temperature by giving too little or too much water is useless - it will still come out either “cotton wool” or “hedgehog”.
Sand
Gypsum and cement-sand mixtures are not stored, so mortar sand will most likely have to be purchased separately. The instructions for the solution most often indicate what kind of sand is needed, and these instructions should be strictly observed. Unsuitable sand is the second most important reason that spoils the work.
If there are no such instructions, you need to be guided by the following:
- Sand is needed river, with rounded granules. Here the spreadability of the polymer is important; adhesion is provided in a different way. The most common mistake of hacks and amateurs is buying for the sake of imaginary savings on quarry sand.
- For levelers, the sand fraction is 0.4-0.8 mm, not smaller and not larger.
- For leveling composition - 0.25-0.35 mm.
Note: for gypsum-polyurethane mixtures, a fraction of 0.15-0.2 mm is even better, but - alas! - the cost of river sand, and so expensive, is rapidly increasing with a decrease in the fraction.
Dishes
For kneading, you will need 4 containers: 2 buckets of 30 liters each or high basins of a similar volume for the actual kneading and 2 ordinary buckets for rinsing the tool, “dirty” and “clean”. It is highly desirable that the kneading utensils have rounded bottom corners.
Mixer
A mixing attachment for a drill is also needed, not just any. It must be of a spiral type, two-way tape and with a baffle circle at the bottom, see fig. Other nozzles with extremely limited mixing times (see below) will not create a sufficiently homogeneous mixture.
Mixing technology
Knead in batches for half a bag. Water is first poured into the container according to the specification for the composition, then the dry mixture is poured. Knead with a drill at low speed, 100-300 rpm. When kneading, they drive the nozzle in a circle and up and down, if possible without touching the walls and bottom: the vibration of the dishes sharply worsens the homogeneity of the mixture. The duration of the kneading is 3-4 minutes, it cannot be reduced and tightened. The batch should end just when the mortar begins to mature, see below.
Ripening
The batch must be ripe before use. The bottom line is that the polymer should envelop the granules of the mineral components, which, ideally, should not touch each other at all, only through the polymer film. Ripening also takes 3-4 minutes. Pouring an immature solution is a gross mistake. In most cases, it turns out, if not a "hedgehog", then a "wave" under other favorable conditions.
fill
Filling is the final part of the work. There are fewer such strictnesses as in kneading, but clear coordination of the actions of the master and partner is needed. Fill the floor as follows:
- The partner makes the first batch.
- As soon as it is ready, the master sets aside the first mixing bucket for ripening and substitutes another for the second batch.
- The partner at this time quickly, for 3-4 seconds, rinses the mixer in two waters, without turning off the drill.
- The partner makes the second batch (do not forget to rinse the mixer!), And the master is still dreaming or giving the CC.
- 20-30 seconds before the second batch is ready, the master takes the first one, pours it into the far corner, gives the empty bucket to the partner for the third batch and accelerates the first batch with a special tool - a squeegee (or squeegee, see the figure on the right).
- Meanwhile, the second batch is ripening and the third is being prepared.
- The master sets the third batch for ripening, takes the ripened second batch, pours it out, accelerates it.
- The cycle is repeated and the mixing buckets are changed until the entire area is filled.
Now the flooded floor seems even, but the insidious fifth column lurks in the solution layer - air bubbles. If you forget about them, they will begin to emerge and the coating will turn out to be a “grater” or a lunar landscape. Therefore, the final stage of pouring is deaeration.
It is produced with a special (not for drywall!) Needle roller, see fig. Pay attention to the visor above it. Its purpose is to protect not only clothes and faces from splashes, but the solution itself. Moisture from sprays flying in the air evaporates intensively, especially at elevated temperatures. Falling back into the flood, they create inhomogeneities in it. They are not immediately visible, but when it has already begun to seize and it is useless to do anything, a “grater” appears.
"Poke"
In small areas (toilet, bathroom, hallway and kitchen in Khrushchev houses), rather expensive squeegees with a roller (about 1000 rubles for both) are sometimes replaced with a home-made “poke” tool - a board with nails on the handle, see fig. left. "Poke" can both disperse and deaerate the solution. In the first case, it is pulled; in the second, they spank her.
But already on an area of 10-12 square meters. m savings is illusory. The solution sticks to the nails, the tool has to be rinsed every now and then. The lengthening of the work is not scary here, because. few batches are needed, but an expensive waste solution costs much more than a squeegee with a roller costs.
Finally
As you can see, working with self-leveling compounds is not an easy task. Nevertheless, to try it yourself, for a start on the surplus bought on the cheap and somewhere in the closet, is very worth it. The work of masters is also not cheap. A square floor to order costs about 800 rubles, and half of this money can be saved by your own work. And it requires only knowledge and accuracy, subtle skills and jewelry coordination of movements are not needed.
(1
ratings, average: 5,00
out of 5)
The bulk floor is poured to level the surface. When the subfloor is flooded, flaws are revealed in it in the form of an uneven surface relative to the level and small depressions in the form of pits. This material will tell and show how to fix such defects.
So, I practiced two ways to level the surface using a self-leveling floor and a leveling screed. Consider their pros and cons.
Tools:
- brush 15cm wide
- capacity 40 liters
- drill mixer
- needle roller for self-leveling floor
- spatula wide, narrow
- notched trowel, with a tooth height of 8-10 mm
- level
- rule
- trowel
Work progress
First way. self-leveling floor
Before starting work with a self-leveling floor, the surface must be cleaned of dust. It is advisable to do this with a vacuum cleaner. After that, we prime the surface with liquid glass (LS).
Its absorbency in the base of the floor depends on the consistency of the ZhS. It is necessary to dilute it in a ratio of 1 to 2 (one part of water to two parts of ZhS) and treat the surface, preferably in 2-3 layers. The time interval before the next application should be about 1 hour. Works are carried out at a temperature not lower than + 10 C.
After the LS has dried, the surface should take on a characteristic shade, as after applying varnish.
We do this so that when applying the self-leveling floor, all the moisture contained in the mixture is not absorbed into the floor, and the mixture itself does not dry out, but gradually hardens. Also, this procedure will serve as a kind of waterproofing of the floor.
Before kneading the self-leveling floor mixture, we make a wooden sole to fit the size of the shoe with self-tapping screws screwed into it. This is done so that after applying the self-leveling floor, you can walk on it without stepping on the whole foot.
Mixing with a mixer ready mix bulk floor.
We carry out this work strictly according to the instructions indicated on the bag.
After that, pour the mixed mixture onto the floor and level with a spatula.
This also contributes to the uniform smoothing of the mixture along the plane.
In my case, after the floor is dry.
Cobweb-shaped cracks appeared on the floor, which means that the temperature regimes indicated on the bag were not observed.
To eliminate them, you can stick a grid for puttying facades.
First, apply the adhesive with a notched trowel.
In this way, we will fix the problem.
After the tile adhesive had dried, the linoleum was laid.
The second way. Floor leveling screed
To begin with, we perform the same work with ZhS, that is, we prime the surface. Then we prepare a cement-sand mixture (CPS), which includes sifted sand (coarse-grained), cement, tile adhesive in a ratio of 3 × 1x1 (three parts of sand, one cement, one tile adhesive).
The process begins with the installation of beacons by level. Next, apply the DSP with a notched trowel. The mixture must be rubbed into the floor surface.
After that, we level the DSP applied to the floor with the rule. While it is not completely frozen, rub the surface with a trowel.
You should get a uniform, even surface.
After the leveling screed has dried, for strength, we additionally impregnate it with liquid glass, diluted with water in a ratio of 2 to 1.
After the liquid glass dries, linoleum or any other coating spreads.
Conclusions about working with self-leveling floor and leveling screed
Bulk floor. It is easy and simple to work with him. Its thickness can be from 3 to 10 mm, but the price for the finished mixture is high. The need to follow the instructions for working with the mixture is also a minus.
Leveling strap. If you have enough time and budget, this is a suitable option.
Reminder: the main disadvantage of the leveling screed is that it reduces the height of the room by 10-15 mm, while the thickness of the self-leveling floor can be only 3 mm.
