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Stages of attaching a log for a fence to a pole. Tips from craftsmen and advice from fence building experts How to attach transverse logs to poles

The construction of the territory fencing must be carried out in compliance with all applicable norms and rules as carefully as the construction of a residential building or industrial premises.
One of the important stages of the fencing device is the installation of horizontal lags (veins) to which the filling of the spans between the pillars is attached - a picket fence, profiled metal, wooden panels, forged gratings, 3D mesh blocks, etc.
Previously, parts intended for fastening the lag to a metal pole were welded, embedded parts were inserted into a concrete or brick pole, and horizontal logs were already attached to them.
Such fences required serious anti-corrosion protection, and visually they looked “not very good”.
Modern fences, as a rule, are simple prefabricated modular structures - durable, strong and original.

Fastening the lag to a metal pole

Consider the procedure for installing a log (vein, crossbars) using the example of building the most inexpensive, popular and beautiful fence made of a metal profile.
Most often, the basis for fastening the lag is metal poles made of round or profiled pipes, to which fasteners are attached using bolts of a suitable diameter (depending on the cross section of the veins). The same procedure for attaching the lag to brick, stone and concrete pillars that have metal embedded parts.
If you buy a set of fence elements in the store right away, it should include fasteners for the log:

• X-brackets;
• various types of log holders;
• rivets;
• self-tapping screws;
• Bolts with nuts.

Installing the lag occurs in the following sequence:

1. Mark the places for attaching the lag holders. With a fence height of up to 1.5 meters, two horizontal veins are sufficient. If higher, up to and more than 2 meters, three are installed. Logs should be fastened at a distance of 25-35 cm from the lower and upper edges of the profiled sheet.
2. X-brackets are attached to the pole at the marking points.
3. Holes for bolts are drilled in horizontal lags.
4. Logs are directly attached.

Typically, in this design, metal profiled or round pipes, but it is also possible to use durable wooden blocks.

Fastening the log to the poles by welding

You can attach the logs to metal racks by electric welding. The same applies to concrete and stone pillars with embedded elements.
Logs to the pole can be welded in the following ways:

1. in front of the riser end-to-end;
2. in front of the pillar with a holder;
3. right next to the side of the post, closer to the front side of the fence.

Welding - reliable way fastening, but with it there is a need for cleaning, priming and painting the welding points to prevent rust and corrosion. The fact is that fence parts are sold already painted, or a good owner paints them before installation, and welding destroys protective covering. And ready-made fasteners for corrugated board, which also has a protective coating, significantly speed up the installation of horizontal logs.

In this regard, fasteners are gaining more and more popularity today: fasteners for poles and logs, as well as x-brackets. They are little short of strength characteristics welding, and at the same time have a number of undeniable advantages. Fastening connections greatly increase the speed of installation, in addition, the logs already attached are easy to remove and install back or to a new place. When installing fence spans using fasteners, damage to their protective layer, painted with primer enamels, galvanized or powder coated, is excluded.

Fasteners for poles and log are made according to a different principle: bent metal elements are used from sheet metal, which are interconnected by industrial welding, after which they are covered with zinc-containing soil and powder paint. Metal fasteners for poles issued different models and standard sizes.

X-brackets are produced by stamping from an all-metal sheet and subsequent processing of products by hot dip galvanizing. The result is a cruciform design with curved edges with mounting holes. x-bracket to the fence post and fastening the log.

Installation fasteners for poles and fence lag

Process corrugated fence installation, metal fence or wooden fences using fasteners is quite simple. On the supporting pillars of the fence, marking is carried out at the points of attachment of the fasteners. Fasteners are applied to the table, a log is inserted into it, the horizontalness of which is checked by the building level. Then, the mount is screwed to the post using bolts or roofing screws. The X-bracket is attached in the same way.

Fasteners are easy to use. Their use can significantly speed up installation processes and significantly improve the aesthetics, reliability and quality of the fence design. Our company provides services for the installation of turnkey fences and performs certain types works: post hole drilling fence, installation of metal poles from a round and shaped pipe, installation of a log by a welded method or using fasteners, installation of corrugated board and other construction work.

Types of fasteners for the fence

Fasteners for a column No. 1 typical It is used for fastening spans of a fence made of metal picket fence and corrugated board. It is designed for fastening a log from a profile pipe with a section of 20x40 mm to fence posts 60x60 mm. Typical fasteners are designed to install horizontal veins in one line: the logs are inserted into the fasteners and mounted to the pole with roofing screws or bolted connections.

Fasteners for column No. 2 for height differences used in cases where the fence is mounted on areas with slopes. In these fasteners, the logs are not mounted in one line, since each next span is installed at a different level. Fasteners for fences with height differences can alternate with typical fasteners, as differences can alternate with flat areas. Bolts and roofing screws are also used to mount these fasteners.

Fasteners for a column No. 3 angular used for mounting horizontal logs to corner fence posts. Corner fasteners are L-shaped: the base of the part is fastened with screws or bolts to the post, and the logs are inserted on both sides of the holder, which have U-shape, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws. Such fasteners are produced in two modifications - for fastening veins with internal and outer side fences.

Fasteners for gate post No. 5 it is used for mounting the log to the bearing column of wickets or gates. IN this case fastener from the side of the column is made of a U-shaped profile over size, since the gate support post has a section of 80x80 mm. The mount is attached to the pole with screws or bolts, after which a log is inserted into its horizontal parts, which is screwed to the base of the mount with self-tapping screws.

Fasteners for wood poles No. 1 used when installing fences made of wood. Instead of a U-shaped profile for veins, a plate is provided in the fasteners for wooden logs, to which bars of wood of any section are attached using roofing screws or bolted connections.

Buy fasteners for poles and lag you can in our online store ZABORIVOROTA.RU. We provide services of a complete set of construction objects, we calculate the number of necessary fence materials and provide advice on the construction of fences and barriers.

A house or plot without a fence is like a general without an army: it looks completely undignified. In addition, the fence serves as a guard against stray animals and partly from unwanted guests of the human race. Today there are many materials for creating a protective structure - brick, concrete and hardware, mesh, but wood is still in great demand. Previously, supports made of the same material were used for wood, today they are installing wooden fence on metal poles.

Features of wooden fences

The tree is always in demand, because it has a lot of undeniable advantages:

• Naturalness.
• Decorative.
• Aesthetics.
• Unique color and texture.
• Low cost in comparison with fences made of other materials.
• Excellent compatibility with architectural style any building.
• Ease of erection.
• Variety of options.

This list can be continued for a very long time. Of course, like any other material, wood has its drawbacks, namely, relative fragility. But this problem is currently being solved. There are many protective and antiseptic products for wood products, the use of which will significantly extend the life of the fence.

Properties of metal products

The advantages of supporting metal products include:

• Ease of installation work.
• Reliability and durability of a design.
• Strength.
• Stability against static and dynamic loads.
• The ability to use any method of fixation.

The disadvantages of metal piles include the following: if the price of the fence is used, it will increase significantly, but given that the use of metal supports will significantly extend the life of the fence, then such a disadvantage is not.

Types of pipe sections

Metal poles are produced with different sections:

• square. Such products are easily mounted in sections and are distinguished by a reliable connection. Parameters: height - 2.5-4.0 m, overall dimensions of the sides - 6-10 cm, wall thickness - 0.2-0.4 cm.
• Round. If a metal pipe with a circular section is used, the price of the supports will be somewhat lower, since they are cheaper than analogues of other types. Also, the use of products with a circular cross section provides an opportunity to choose products desired thickness and diameter. Parameters: wall thickness - 2.5-3.5 mm, diameter - 5.7-10.8 cm, height - from 2.5 to 4.0 m.
• Rectangular. From the square section, these products are distinguished only by the shape, so all the characteristics are similar.

Material protection

In order to be able to stand for more than a dozen years, it is necessary to protect not only the main material, but also the elements of the metal fence. To do this, you need to cover the pillars special paint. This will protect the metal from corrosion and mechanical damage. To prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the pipes, metal caps can be put on the upper end.

The use of anti-corrosion technologies will help to preserve the original quality of the material and its original appearance for a long time.

Plot marking

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the fence, it is necessary to make markings. To do this, first, where it is planned to make a wooden fence on metal poles, you need to remove shrubs, trees, and other objects that may interfere. If necessary, you need to level the surface of the soil. Only now is the marking done. You need to do the following:

• Drive in pegs at the extreme points of the future fence.
• Stretch a string between them.
• Mark the places where the fence supports will be installed. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly on the same line and at a distance of no more than 2.5-3 m. Otherwise, over time, the fence will begin to sag and lose its proper appearance.

Features of fastening support products in the soil

There are several ways to fix metal pipes in the soil, which allows you to choose the most suitable option.

If you are building a wooden fence on metal poles with your own hands, it is cheapest to hammer pipes into the ground. To do this, a guide is installed inside these elements. Two people are needed to complete the work: one clogs, and the other scrupulously controls the verticality of the support. Alternatively, you can not clog the pipes, but dig in, having previously prepared a well with a drill, then install the pipe and tamp the ground well.

The following mounting options are more laborious, but also more reliable:

• concreting
• Mounting on a concrete plinth.
• Usage screw piles. For complex and it great option solutions to many installation problems.

Installation of supports

Remarkably, the rules listed below are suitable for mounting supports made of different materials:

• It is necessary to deepen the supports by at least 1/4 of the entire product. This will ensure their secure fixation in the soil. After that, so that over time the pillars do not loosen, you can first fill around them using crushed stone or brick chips, and then concrete. Further work can be continued only after the concrete hardens.
• They begin work by installing the extreme corner piles, carefully setting them in height. Subsequent columns are installed on the same level as the previous one. In order to avoid any undesirable changes, it is possible to dig in instead of the extreme posts of the rail to save the height indicator, stretch the twine between them and then install the remaining supports, focusing on desired label height.

• How the poles should be installed - above the future fence, below or level - depends on the choice of the owner himself. But according to the recommendations of experts, a wooden fence on metal poles should be installed so that the supports rise above the picket fence by several centimeters.
• So that the wind could not turn the fence on rocky, sandy and non-rocky soils, it is necessary to deepen the supports no less than half the height of the fence.
• Expanding the lower end of the post will increase its strength and durability. This extension will serve as a welded cross.
• After all the pillars are installed, you can from concrete mortar make small cones at their base to drain water.

Picket fence installation

When all the supports are installed, you can weld fasteners to them, on which the transverse bars - runs - will then be fixed. Alternatively, you can weld the mount earlier and only then install the poles. But then you also need to ensure that all fasteners are at the same level and create a single line, only in this way it will be possible to attach runs without any problems.

Depending on what material the transverse bars are made of - wood or metal profile - the choice of fasteners also depends. If a wooden fence is fastened to metal poles using a metal profile, then it itself can be welded to the mount, and wood products are fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws. If the transverse bars are made of wood, then they are fixed to the mount with bolts, but the picket fence is fixed with ordinary nails. The main thing at the same time is to ensure that there are no distortions or other violations. This can be done using a level, and the height can be checked using the same stretched string.

The picket fence can be mounted either closely or with a small (or large) gap according to the chosen design. How to decorate the top of the fence? It can be anything - horizontal, at an angle, wavy. At the same time, the second and third options are preferable, since due to the convex surface of the picket fence, moisture will not accumulate on its surface, as a result, the fence will serve a much longer period of time.

It remains only to make and install the gate and gate. They can be made of wood, corrugated board, pipes, forging, since a wooden fence on metal poles goes well with any of them. The cost of the entire structure will depend on the choice of not only the material of the gate and wicket, but also on all elements of the structure.

One of the most inexpensive fences for a summer residence or a private house - from corrugated board. Its design is simple - dug-in poles to which transverse logs are attached. A profiled sheet is attached to this lattice with self-tapping screws or rivets. Everything is really easy, especially if you know how to use welding machine. Although there is a technology without welding - on bolts or on wooden crossbars. In any case, you can build a fence from corrugated board with your own hands. You can do all the work, if necessary, alone, but when installing sheets it is more convenient with an assistant.

Construction with metal poles

The simplest production is a fence with metal poles dug into the ground. You can use round or square pipes, but it is more convenient to work with square - profiled ones.

The length of the posts is taken depending on the desired height of the fence, plus from 1 to 1.5 meters is added for penetration into the ground. It is necessary to dig into the ground below the freezing depth of the soil. For each region, the soil freezes to a different depth, but in middle lane In Russia, this is about 1.2 m. When determining the depth to which you bury pipes, it is better to play it safe and make the holes deeper. Otherwise, the forces of winter heaving of the rack will simply be pushed out, and your fence will fall down (see photo).

For pillars, they usually take a profiled pipe with a cross section of 60 * 60 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm. The distance between the posts is from 2 to 3 meters. The greater the thickness of the profiled sheet, the less often you can put poles. If the soil is hard to dig, it makes sense to make the distances larger, otherwise you can save on the purchase of metal - the thinner, the cheaper and the price difference is significant.

Logs for a fence from a professional sheet are made from a profile pipe 40 * 20 or 30 * 20 mm. The second option is wooden bars 70 * 40 or so. When using wood, a significant amount is saved, but the tree disappears faster, and besides, it warps from moisture. Most likely in a few years you will have to change the lags, and they will already be metal. But as an economy option for several years will go.

Making a fence from corrugated board with your own hands wooden lags, do not forget to carefully treat the wood with an antibacterial compound (for example, Senezh Ultra). It is better to do this in the bathroom - immerse the bars for 20 minutes in the solution completely. So they will last longer.

The number of lags depends on the height of the fence. Up to 2 meters - two are enough, from 2.2 to 3.0 meters you need 3 guides, even higher - 4.

Ways of fastening the lag to the poles

Metal logs are welded either between the pillars or in front. The first method is more laborious, and more waste is obtained: you have to cut the pipes into pieces. But with this arrangement of the lag, the structure turns out to be more rigid: each pillar serves as a support for the sheet and it “walks” less, if desired, a couple of additional fasteners can be placed along it.

If you weld pipes in front of the pole (from the side of the street), there is less work, but you still have to cut and there will be waste: it is necessary that the weld of the two sections falls on the pole. Unless you guess the distance so that they lie flat. Then you buy materials in advance, and then calculate the installation step of the pillars.

For fastening wooden bars, holders are welded in front or on the sides - metal corners or U-shaped guides. Holes are then drilled into them and fastened with bolts or self-tapping screws.

There is an option to assemble a fence from corrugated board without welding. There is a special fastener for this, which is called the X-bracket. This is a cross-shaped plate with curved edges, which is mounted on self-tapping screws.

Decking for fences

For fences, a profiled sheet marked C is used - for fences and walls. There are also H and HC, but they are not suitable for fences - this is more roofing materials. It is rare to find markings A and R, profiles A can be used for fences.

In the marking after the letter there is a number - from 8 to 35. It indicates the height of the rib in millimeters. So C8 means that the profiled sheet is intended for a fence, and the wave height is 8 mm. The higher the wave height, the more rigid the surface will be. In strong winds, take at least C10, and even C20.

Sheet thickness - from 0.4 to 0.8 mm. Most best option- thickness 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm. They are suitable for fences up to 2.5 m in height. If you need a higher one, take at least 0.6 mm.

The height of the sheet is usually around 2 meters, you can find 2.5 m. The width is very different - from 40 cm to 12 meters. Different factories produce corrugated board of various formats.

Decking can be galvanized or painted (painted is 15-25% more expensive than galvanized). Paint is applied in two types: powder and polymer coating. Powder coating is more durable, but also more expensive.

There are sheets painted on one side - on the other there is galvanized coated with primer gray color, there are - from two. Double-sided coating is naturally more expensive than single-sided painting, but the view is better, and the service life is longer.

Support pipes and logs for the fence are usually primed, then painted. And somehow it happened that they paint them dark paint. Then attaching a profiled sheet painted on one side to them, they get a clearly visible “skeleton” on light gray background. On small area this is critical. Pay attention, and when building a fence from corrugated board with your own hands, paint the supporting frame in light gray. The result will please you: it looks much better from the yard.

How to fasten the profiled sheet to the frame

Fasten the sheet with screws or rivets. Self-tapping screws for profiled sheet are galvanized, there are painted. Pick them up to match the color of the fence. Tighten with a screwdriver using a nozzle.

The installation step depends on the wavelength and the height of the fence. The higher the fence, the more often you need to install fasteners. It holds normally if fastened through a wave to increase strength, with two lags it can be fastened in a checkerboard pattern, and not one above the other.

During installation, it is important to set the first sheet vertically. Then all the rest will be installed without problems. When laying sheets, the next one enters the one already set for 1 wave. Attached to the bottom of the wave. It is necessary to install the self-tapping screw strictly perpendicularly. Then the hole is covered with a washer and precipitation will not cause peeling of the paint.

For information on how one can attach a profiled sheet to a fence, see the video.

Do-it-yourself fence from corrugated board: photo report

A fence was built from the neighbors and frontal. The total length is 50 meters, the height is 2.5 m. A brown profiled sheet is used on the front, and galvanized on the boundary, thickness 0.5 mm, grade C8.

In addition, the following materials went:

• profiled pipe 60 * 60 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, pipes 3 m long for poles;
• 80 * 80 mm with a wall of 3 mm were placed on the gate posts and gates;
• logs 30 * 30 mm;
• gate frame and gates 40*40 mm;

A ready-made fence from corrugated board was built by one person with his own hands

The fence is mounted on metal poles, between which the plinth is then poured. The owners need it, since it is planned to set up a flower garden in front of the fence (you can see the fence made under it). It is also needed so that water does not flood the yard during heavy rains. Metal sheets are not fastened immediately from the ground, but slightly retreated. This gap is closed with a die-cut - a tape that remains in some industries. This is done on purpose so as not to block the access of air, so that the earth dries out faster.

Metal preparation

The first stage is the preparation of pipes. From the warehouse, the pipe comes rusty, so that it serves for a long time, you have to clean off the rust, then treat it with Antirust and then paint it. It is more convenient to first prepare all the pipes, prime and paint, then just start the installation. The rust was cleaned wire brush installed on the grinder.

The pipes in the warehouse were only 6 meters long. Since the height of the fence is 2.5 meters, you need to bury another 1.3 meters, the total length of the post should be 3.8 meters. To save money, they cut it in half into 3-meter pieces, and the missing pieces were added with various scrap metal available on the farm: trimming corners, fittings, pieces different pipes. Then everything was cleaned, primed and painted.

Pole installation

The first two corner posts were placed. Pits were drilled with a drill bought in a store. The soil is normal, one hole 1.3 meters deep took about 20 minutes.

The first pillar was set horizontally and so that it rose above the ground to a height of 2.5 meters. To set the second one, it was necessary to beat off the height. Used a water level. It must be filled in so that there are no bubbles - from a bucket, and not from the tap, otherwise it will lie.

They put up the second pillar at the broken mark (applied to the bar, which was placed next to the hole) and concreted. When the cement had set, a twine was pulled between the posts, along which all the rest were aligned.

The filling technology was standard: a double-folded roofing felt was installed in the hole. A pipe was placed inside, poured with concrete (M250) and set up vertically. The level was controlled by a plumb line. It is very important to set the posts correctly, otherwise the entire fence will warp.

In the process of work, it turned out several times that concrete was poured not inside the rolled roofing material, but between it and the walls of the pit. Raking it out of there is a small pleasure, because the protruding part was cut into petals, nailed to the ground with large nails. Problem solved.

After the concrete had set, they made a portable formwork from boards covered with a dense film. With their help, the basement was filled. To make it stronger, reinforcing bars are welded to the posts on both sides from the bottom. Formwork was placed around them.

Jumper setting

Cleaned, primed and painted pipes for the crossbars were cut and welded. Cooked between the pillars. They are also tedious to put in a level to make it easier to mount.

After the welding is completed, all welding points are cleaned with a wire brush, treated with "Anti-rust" and then painted.

Profiled sheet installation

Since the top jumper runs along the very top of the fence, and it is welded exactly to the level, there were no problems with leveling and installing the sheets. Fastened first along the edges, then installed intermediate screws. To make it easier to put them evenly, a thread was pulled between the extreme ones.

Smoothly installed fasteners are also beautiful

After the gates were welded and attached. How final touch- additional elements are installed on top - a U-shaped profile that covers the top of the fence and plugs for pipes.

As you understand, there is nothing particularly complicated. It is important to set the posts evenly and weld the frame. This is the main task. A lot of time - about 60% is spent on preparing pipes - cleaning, priming, painting.

Fence made of profiled sheet with brick pillars

Of course, a fence with brick pillars looks more decorative. You can do it if you want, but it will take more time. There are two options:

• Make a full-fledged strip foundation. But it is long and expensive. On well-drained soils, you can make a shallow foundation, on heaving soils you will have to dig in below the freezing depth of the soil. And although the tape will not be wide, there is a lot of work - dig a trench for the entire length of the fence, put up formwork, knit reinforcement, fill it and then finish it. put on top brick pillars. Strong, reliable, but expensive.
• Make according to the scheme described above: bearing pillars with a plinth. Bricks are laid around the pillars. This method is less costly. About,

The whole technology is the same, only the reinforcement will be required more rigid - two belts of two bars with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It will be necessary to install embedded elements in the pillars, to which the guides will be attached. They (mortgages) can be welded to the pipe after it has been exposed and the mortar has set.

Photo of the design of the fences from the profiled sheet

Often a profiled sheet is combined with forging, sometimes a frame is welded from a profile pipe, a profiled sheet is mounted in it and all this is decorated with metal patterns - forged or welded. Another option to make the fence non-standard is to install the wave not vertically, but horizontally. A small, seemingly change, but the view is different. Some ideas in the photo gallery below.