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Fences for giving - we build with our own hands. Construction of an inexpensive wooden fence around the suburban area

Often a fence for suburban area a temporary one is being built for the subsequent construction of a more solid structure. And often there is simply not enough money for a solid fence, so we are looking for the most cheap fence for giving.

To make the fence cost quite inexpensively, we will build it with our own hands. Before installing the type of fence you have chosen, be sure to take an interest in the technology of its installation and consult with a specialist.

Cheap fence for giving

The price of the fence is affected by the size of the structure and the material from which it will be made. Accordingly, a high fence is more expensive than a low one, and a solid fence is more expensive than a transparent one. A structure that is attached to dug-in or concreted pillars will turn out to be cheaper than a fence mounted on a strip foundation.

Wooden picket fence - the most budget option

From such an inexpensive material, you can make a completely beautiful and original fence for a summer residence. An example of this is a photo of finished fences.

This is a very popular fence material. The picket fence is a plank of wood, 18 to 22 mm thick and 7 to 14 cm wide.

The height of the picket fence can be from 1.2 to 4 meters. To fasten this material, horizontal girders are used, fixed on oak, metal or concrete posts.

The approximate price of a picket fence is 700 rubles/sq.m. The final cost of the fence largely depends on the chosen installation option. For example, installing a picket fence in a checkerboard pattern or a herringbone pattern increases the price of the structure by 15-20%. The strip foundation, instead of simply driving the posts into the ground, adds 20-25% to the cost.

Fences made of thin wicker boards and a blockhouse are more expensive (from 1000 rubles / sq.m). A fence made of wicker boards attracts attention with an original look, and a blockhouse fence wins the hearts of summer residents with the quality factor of a wooden log house.

The type of fence "Ranch" came to us from the Wild West. For its construction, wide horizontal boards or beams are used, which are attached to low wooden poles. The disadvantage of such a fence is that it does not protect the site from the entry of unauthorized persons and even small animals. It is quite understandable, since this fence was created for a vast pasture area. But installing it does not take much time. And in terms of the cost of materials and work, such a fence is comparable to the price of a picket fence.

Wattle fence for a suburban area

Fans like this fence made of hazel or willow branches rustic style. It is original, strong enough and durable. With a strong desire, the technique of weaving branches can be mastered with your own hands in a matter of hours. If you have no time to engage in manual creativity, then you will have to pay from 500 rubles per 1 square meter for the manufacture and installation of wattle.

Anyone who is interested in building a cheap fence for a summer residence, we advise you to pay attention to an unedged board. Having freed it from the bark, sanded and varnished, you can get a beautiful fence for a summer cottage at the lowest price (about 550 rubles / sq.m.).

Regarding the durability of wooden fences… The service life of autoclaved wood increases to 30 years. The service life of an ordinary, painted board does not exceed 15 years.

Fence for a summer residence from a grid of the chain-link

The cheapest fence can be built from a chain-link mesh. It is issued in different options height (1.0-3.0 meters), length 10-18 meters and cell size 20-100 mm. To protect the wire from corrosion, galvanizing and polymer coating are used.

You can put up such a fence by rolling out the mesh and fixing it to metal or concrete pillars. The second option is the manufacture of mesh sections, that is, frames from corners or pipes and their installation on poles.

The service life of mesh fences reaches 30 years. Such fences do not obscure the site and at the same time are reliable, as they create a serious barrier to uninvited guests.

The average price of 1 square meter of a turnkey chain-link fence is 180-240 rubles.

Fence for giving from eurostudent

The popularity of wooden picket fences prompted stamped metal manufacturers to create something similar. The result is a very aesthetic and durable material.

In terms of service life, wood cannot be compared with it. In addition, the fence made of eurostudent does not require periodic painting and antiseptics. Protective polymer film, which is coated with galvanized steel, retains its color and integrity for 25-30 years.

Installation of a fence made of eurostudent, taking into account the price of materials and work, is from 800 rubles per 1 sq.m.

Country fence made of corrugated board

Today it is the leader of country fence construction. This is a dumb fence. Its affordable price allows any summer resident to use it to protect their site. Through such a fence not a single living soul will penetrate. Installation of a fence from a professional flooring is simple, and therefore inexpensive. To this can be added huge selection colors and texture pattern of the profiled sheet.

• Use corrugated board with a thickness of 0.5 mm. It is not much more expensive than 0.4 mm thick flooring, but it will not be covered with dents and will not lose its attractiveness.
• The pitch of the supports should be no more than 2-2.5 meters, ideally 1.5 meters. And if we take the distance between the supports of 3 m, then under the influence of wind loads, the fence canvas will begin to bend and may lose its original appearance.
• Dig in the support pipes to a depth of at least 1.5 meters and be sure to concrete them.
• The fence posts must be made of a pipe 60-80 mm, with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm.
• Take corrugated board with a double-sided, polymer coating, since galvanized flooring (without painting), after two years, becomes stained, loses its luster and may begin to corrode.

Fence for giving from slate

For the installation of such a deaf fence, both flat and wavy asbestos-cement slate are used. The first is stronger because it has a greater thickness.

The installation of a large format flat slate (1.5x3 meters) is faster than the installation of a smaller wavy one (1.75x1.125 m). They put the slate on steel profile runs, welded or bolted to metal posts.

The slate fence has high strength, as well as heat and frost resistance. It is more durable than wood and is not afraid of corrosion like metal. However, this material has a significant drawback - it is fragile and nondescript in appearance. And if nothing can be done about the first minus, then the second can be easily corrected - paint the slate.

Bottom line: the cheapest fence for a summer residence is a chain-link fence (200 rubles / sq.m.), the second place in price is fences made of welded mesh, wooden picket fence and unedged boards(450-600 rubles / sq.m.), we give the third place in our rating to fences made of corrugated board, slate, blockhouse and edged board(700-1000 rubles/sq.m.).

fence posts

During the construction of the fence, much attention is paid to the installation of pillars - the supporting part of the fence. And the more reliably they are installed, the stronger the fence will be, which means it will last longer.

Installation of fence posts

During construction, 3 methods of installing support pillars are used.

• Direct driving into the ground
• Partial concreting. It is carried out in two ways: pouring a concrete collar, or filling a well below the soil freezing line.
• Full concrete pouring of the underground part of the rack, including the strip foundation

Which method to choose depends on the quality of the soil on the site, its saturation with moisture and the degree of freezing. Also, the choice of installation option is influenced by vertical and lateral loads created by the weight of the structure and its windage. If you decide to install a solid fence, then it must withstand the wind well, the load from which often exceeds the weight of the fence.

Direct driving of posts into the ground speeds up and reduces the cost of building a fence, but it also has many disadvantages.

• If the ground is soft or loose, then the rack may loosen over time under the influence of the wind, since the fences have a large windage (if they are made of corrugated board, polycarbonate, boards).
• If the height of the pole is planned to be higher than 2 meters, even from a chain-link mesh, then this method of installing the poles will also not work - any strong wind will also shake the structure.
• If your site has clayey moist soil that swells at low temperatures, then the supports will crawl out of the soil by 10 centimeters already in the first winter.

That is, fence posts that are simply driven into the ground cannot carry a large mass load. Such an installation is suitable only for low fences with low windage. Or if there is rocky hard ground on the site.

concreting a little more complicated and costly than the first method of attaching fence supports. And yes, it will take more time. Only the hardening of concrete will take 3 weeks. But this method is more reliable, since concrete pillars will last 30-50 years without tilting. Moreover, strengthening with a concrete mixture is suitable for all types of fences, including heavy ones.

Fence brick posts

A brick support without a reliable connection with the foundation, even despite its solid weight, will not last long. A strong wind load, acting on solid sections of the fence, inevitably leads to the overturning of a post that is not fixed in the foundation. In addition, do not forget about seasonal ground movements. Falling and rising a couple of centimeters up and down during the year, the foundation must work in conjunction with the posts and sections of the fence.

The optimal design of the foundation with brick pillars, designed for a corrugated fence, is clearly illustrated by the diagram in the photo.

You can see that a steel rod made of a square pipe or a reinforcing cage is installed in the brick posts. Embedded plates are welded to it. Steel purlins are attached to them under a profiled sheet or picket fence.

Foundation type - strip rubble concrete or concrete. A trench is dug under it, and pits with a diameter of 15-20 cm are drilled at the places where the pillars are installed. First, concrete is poured into wells with pillar racks installed in them. After that, layer-by-layer concreting of the trench begins.

The main parameters of the foundation (laying depth, width, degree of reinforcement) and the height of the fence are determined by calculating the strength and stability.

For the installation of brick pillars for the fence, we used the following dimensions

• trench depth - 20-30 cm;
• the depth of the well for the installation of metal racks of brick pillars, counting from the surface of the earth - 90-100 cm;
• the height of the grillage (the upper part of the foundation, located above the surface of the earth) - 40-60 cm;
• foundation width - 20-35 cm;
• the distance between the pillars is from 2.5 to 3 meters;
• the height of the pillars is from 150 to 180 cm (the cross section of the masonry is 38x38 cm).

In wet soils, it is necessary to drill holes for racks below the freezing depth so that frost heaving forces do not deform the fence.

In weak and unstable soils, in the upper part of the foundation, before concreting it, it is advisable to lay a reinforcing cage of 4-6 rods with a diameter of 14-18 mm. It will preserve the integrity of the foundation and perceive the loads that occur in concrete during subsidence of the soil.

The laying of brick pillars begins no earlier than 2-3 weeks after concreting. Having laid waterproofing under the posts, you can get to work.

Perfectly even seams are a guarantee of an excellent appearance of brick columns. Experienced masons use pieces of a square bar to simplify the work, which serves as a seam template.

In the photo there is a brick support post with a section of 38 x 38 cm. Two reinforcing bars are installed inside for reinforcement. The space between them and the masonry is filled with fine-grained concrete or mortar.

For fences two or more meters high, the size of the column section is increased to 51 x 63 cm or 64 x 77 cm. Accordingly, the dimensions of the reinforcing frame increase.

metal fence posts

Steel supports are well suited for fences made of corrugated board, wood, plastic, metal mesh, welded and forged fences. These are one of the most affordable and durable solutions for installing any fence.

Iron poles are of different types: made of round and shaped pipes, screw. They also differ in height, metal thickness and diameter. It is possible to make such supports for the fence from new materials, as well as from used ones.

The diameter of a column from an ordinary pipe is usually 57, 76, 89 mm. The wall thickness can be any, but the thicker, the longer its service life.

For difficult soils, screw metal piles are used. At the bottom they have a cutting blade that allows you to insert the pipe into the soil quickly, without the use of complex equipment. With the help of this blade, the pipe is firmly held in the ground.

Distance between fence posts

When choosing metal poles, take into account our experience:

• for a fence height of 2-2.5 meters, take a section of a profile pipe of 60 x 40 mm, products of 40 x 40 mm in size are suitable for 1.5 hedges,
• the optimal diameter of the round pipe is 57 mm,
• the maximum size of the corners of the channels installed one by one, take equal to 90 and 160 mm, respectively,
• the interval between the posts should be within 2-3 meters. A smaller distance is inexpedient from the point of view of economy, but a larger one sharply reduces the reliability of the structure.

Our calculation of the pitch of the pillars with a section length of 13.4 meters and a fence height of 1.5 meters

• Divide this distance into 4 sections, you get a length of 3.23 meters. With this interval, the fence can be built from korpich or chain-link mesh on metal poles. It is undesirable to install a profiled sheet or other solid material, as the racks will be loosened by the wind.
• If divided into 5 sections, you get a step of 2.56 meters. This interval is suitable for most designs.
• A breakdown into 6 spans will give a distance between the pillars of 2.12 meters. You will get a reliable structure, but the price of the fence will increase. Although in this case you can save money if you take poles with a smaller section.

The optimal distance between the posts of a solid fence 2 meters high is 2.5 meters. This is an ideal option in terms of price / quality ratio when it comes to popular fences made of corrugated board on metal supports.

So, suppose you already have a summer cottage. Having land, but having nothing else, it is necessary to start somewhere. The construction of a fence in the country is one of the most important issues and resolved first. The work to achieve the ultimate goal in this aspect is quite complicated and in the proper economic situation it is better to use the services of professionals.

If, nevertheless, you decide to do everything yourself, you need to know a few points and features that will help in this matter. And below is all the necessary information so that you fully know how to make a fence in the country with your own hands.

There are several necessary factors that determine the feasibility of a particular building.

For barrier structures, these are:

• The nature of the soil. There are several types of soil, and each of them has different properties that determine the reliability of fixing supporting structures. Given this parameter, the depth for the supports and the type of foundation are selected.
• The load of air currents on the fence. With a different location of your summer cottage, a strong influence of winds on the fence and its sheathing is possible. This load parameter is taken into account to determine the required gaps between sheathed materials (to reduce the effect of air flow).
• Site design. Your fence should be in harmony with the rest of the structures. Aesthetic principles must be observed at least through plantings as close as possible to the fence from the inside.

The options for building a fence for a summer residence are quite diverse, and before you build a fence in the country with your own hands, you need to know: the materials from which the structures are mounted, their cost and the complexity of the construction process. When buying material, try to do it at one time, otherwise it may vary in size and shade. When arranging a live fence, make sure the organic material has not reached its expiration date.

Living fence made of pine needles

In order to ensure that no one interferes with your peace, perhaps a design made of brick, concrete or wood is suitable. For lovers original solutions a wrought iron or hedge fence is suitable. In addition to the fact that such a fence has a pleasant appearance, its main functions are protection from intrusion and protection from robbery, which should also not be forgotten.

Separately, I would like to focus on the supports during construction, as they are a guarantee of a long service life of the fence.

With a brick version of the barrier structure, ordinary pipes with a large diameter of about 100-150 mm are suitable for supports.

Scheme of masonry stobl brick barrier

The construction of a fence made of corrugated board requires a smaller pipe diameter - about 60x60 mm. For a wooden fence, respectively, wooden blocks are used as supports or logs of a certain thickness, depending on the height of the building you have chosen.

The organization of supports is a rather painstaking process. The beginning of the installation is the correct marking and installation of pegs in the places of future posts. The distance between the supports should be the same and directly proportional to the height of the fence. The depth to which the supports are buried must be greater than the depth of freezing of the earth. Wooden supports are treated with a special antiseptic before being immersed in the ground. When placing supports, observe one line; for this, a construction plumb line or an ordinary cord will come to your aid.

Scheme of the construction of a wooden fence

Fixation of supporting structures is described in the paragraphs below. Before starting work, prepare shovels, drills, a cord, measuring tools (rulers, tape measures), an electric drill (if necessary) or a hammer, rammer and building materials.

The foundation, like the supports, is an important element of the building. Provided that all instructions for organizing the foundation are followed, your fence will serve you. long years. There are two main types of foundation: strip and pillar.

Strip foundation

The foundation of this type is very strong and is usually used for buildings of a heavy nature. The strip foundation is especially effective if buildings need to be made in places with problematic soil, for example, on heaving.

Strip foundation scheme

Manufacturing technology

• First of all, dig a hole about 30-80 cm. With the necessary tolerance and time, for greater strength of the future fence, it is better to go deeper to 150 cm.
• Organize a layer of sand, after filling it with water.
• Reinforcing cells should not be large, knitting reinforcement is the next important step.
• Make the formwork for the fence so that the material from which it is made does not touch the ground (was raised by 30-50 cm).
• After, the formwork is poured with concrete, if the supports are mounted in the foundation, this must be done at this stage, observing the level as described earlier.

Pillar foundation

This kind supporting structure differs from the previous one in that it serves for lighter erections. It has a huge plus - sufficient efficiency during construction. If you stick technological process, then the fence standing on this foundation will serve you no less than a fence on a strip foundation.

Scheme of the pillar foundation for supports

Manufacturing technology

• With a shovel or drill, make holes for supports 1-1.5 meters deep. The pit should be 15-30 cm wider than the support immersed in it.
• We make a layer of crushed stone and sand, which we fill with water (the thickness of the layer is approximately 20 cm).
• After leveling the pillars, pour sand concrete into the pit and add crushed stone for greater strength.

The foundation is ready. As you can see, the process is not at all complicated and is suitable for fences of various variations.

wooden fence

Wooden fences for summer cottages can be mounted with your own hands.

Option to build a wooden fence

This operation is quite simple and can be carried out in several steps:

• Determine the perimeter of the building.
• We dig trenches for support pillars (depth 25-30 cm, distance from each other 2 or 2.5 meters).
• We expose the columns evenly using the building level.
• We fix the posts in the ground by pouring concrete or cement into the trench.
• For cladding, we fasten wooden beams or nail them ( the average size bar from 50x50 mm)
• We mount the crossbars
• We attach pre-prepared boards to the resulting structure, with a gap of 1.5-2 cm (choose the size of the boards yourself depending on aesthetic needs, the recommended size is 85x145 mm)
• We carry out Finishing work in the form of painting the resulting structure

Remember: for a long service life of a wooden fence, all boards must be treated with drying oil before construction, and more than once.

Pros: the material is quite affordable and inexpensive.

Cons: wooden fences for summer cottages have a short service life and the need for constant monitoring of the condition (paint, process, etc.).

brick fence

Pros: great strength and service life (50 years or more), aesthetic appearance.

brick fence

Cons: High price and the need to build a strong foundation

Corrugated fence

You can make such a fence yourself with minimal effort.

To get started, purchase sheets of metal, choosing the desired design and looking at the price, after calculating the required amount of material. After that, you need to make a markup and complete a few more points to get a finished barrier structure:

• Dig holes 1-1.2m deep around the entire perimeter.
• In each hole, organize a pillow of crushed stone or gravel 20-25cm thick
• As in the case of a wooden fence, we set the posts evenly, use a level, and then concrete them for strength.
• Next stage - welding work, weld the logs from the pipe across, keeping the same distance between them.
• Using self-tapping screws, screw sheets of metal onto the resulting structure (self-tapping screws can be replaced with metal rivets for better security).

Corrugated fence

Pros: big choice material and its aesthetic parameters, practicality and ease of installation, relatively low price, durability.

Cons: not sufficiently refined overall appearance (this is what brick extensions are usually made for)

Concrete fence (in the form of slabs)

Pros: Durable material (stronger even than brick buildings), long service life, no need for maintenance, different choice decorative performance.

Concrete slab fence

Cons: Very difficult to build with your own hands (you need to use the services of specialists)

Metal fence (forged)

With a sufficient budget of the owner, it is possible to install a wrought iron fence. This view is very in harmony with large buildings and has many positive characteristics.

Pros: forged metal fences for summer cottages have a service life of over 50 years, can take various forms while maintaining strength, aesthetics, such structures are refractory.

Wrought Iron Fence

Cons: they are not a barrier to wind and dust, let noise through, high cost, rust, require maintenance.

Metal fence (in sections)

Elements of sections of this type are connected by welding. The fence has a good visual appearance and has many different models.

Pros: Shock resistance, bending ability, fire safety, gives a high level of illumination.

Sectional metal fence

Cons: Sectional fences for summer cottages do not trap wind and dust, do not protect from visual contact with passers-by, and are not suitable for self-installation.

Metal fence (in the form of a grid)

The fence is suitable for small suburban areas. And it can be erected as a temporary replacement for a more powerful fence, as well as for a permanent long service life.

Self-installation, if you decide on this, begins, like everyone else, with markup. It is necessary to calculate not only the perimeter and vertical position main pillars, but also make room for intermediate supports. Usually, the installation of some pillars is carried out with a distance of 3 meters from each other, and the next after 9. The diameter of the required pipes is indicated in the paragraph on supports, and their installation in the paragraph on the foundation.

Metal mesh fence

The dug-in poles are connected by supports made of metal corners. This can be done by welding or screwing bolts. For additional security, the wire rod is passed between the posts at different heights, having previously drilled holes in them. This is done so that a possible attacker could not bend the mesh of your fence.

The last step is stretching the mesh. You can fix it with bolts, after passing a wire rod through it. The mesh roll begins to unwind near the support posts, gradually, making sure that the bent ends of the mesh are on top.

Pros: the design is quite reliable and lasts a long time, does not cast a shadow.

Cons: Does not provide the necessary comfort due to its visible design.

Slab fence

In general, slab is a waste product resulting from sawmill work. The construction of a slab fence is quite economical, although according to some experts it does not have a special aesthetic appearance. If you need to save your budget - this is an ideal option.

Slab fence

If we build a fence in the country with our own hands from a slab, then it is necessary to follow the correct sequence of work.

For lovers non-standard solutions Wattle fence is best. This design is easily in harmony with any design of a summer cottage and at the same time is cheaper than any other options for building a fence. The main disadvantage is short term service, about 3-5 years. You can use willow or hazel branches or birch branches to make the sheathing. As in other structures, you can not do without supports. As usual, there are two versions - supports made of wood or metal (the process of their installation is described above).

Weaving requires branches of the appropriate length (at least 1.5 meters) and thickness (at least 30 mm). Before starting work, the rods are randomly checked. The branches should not be too dry, as this will cause the fence to break. If you break the twig, its middle should not have a red-brown tint - this is an indicator of excessive dryness.

Remove the bark from the branches and leave them in ordinary water for a week or two. In the process of soaking, use any weight that presses the rods. After, you can start the process of weaving, it is customary to braid from the bottom up. Copper wire is used as an additional fastening material. For a tight arrangement of the rods relative to each other, a rubber hammer is used. The ends of the supports are covered to avoid the influence of precipitation. You can close the end surface with galvanized caps or clay caps.

Decoration of a standard fence

Installing a fence in a country house is a very common question, but there is another equally interesting one - how to decorate an existing fence, which has nothing to do with design solutions. The answer is very simple - climbing plants, different kinds grapes or ivy will help you ennoble your building. It is possible to paint the fence or use it as one of the walls of the adjacent gazebo. Plantings in the form of elevated flower beds along the fence are also welcome.

The solution to decor issues depends on you and your imagination. Building a fence with your own hands is possible with its subsequent decoration in the conditions of awareness of the possible options for the execution of both. Having read the material presented above, you are taking a big step towards meeting new opportunities.

Photos

Below is a gallery of photos of fences for summer cottages, so that you can see the variety of designs for country fences and can choose the most suitable one for you, which will satisfy all your requirements, from appearance to security. All images are enlarged to full size by clicking on them.

Many construction teams take up the installation of a corrugated fence. The process is not troublesome and fast, but the earnings are substantial.

You can eliminate this expense item from the total estimate for the improvement of a summer house or a private house by deciding to make a fence from corrugated board with your own hands.

The purpose of the fence on the site is to protect the territory. At the same time, it has another function - representative.

Previously, the main material for the construction of fences was wood - an affordable material, but requiring care and protection from destruction, at present, other building materials compete with it: brick, concrete, polycarbonate, mesh, forging, corrugated board.

According to the ratio of the parameters "price-installation-durability-appearance", the leadership belongs to corrugated board, which led to its wide distribution among users.

Advantages of corrugated fences

• ease of material and installation;
• strength (rigidity);
• resistance to corrosion;
• uniform and very slow fading (like paint on a car);
• aesthetic appeal;
• undemanding to care;
• long service life;
• relatively low price.

Few building materials have such a list of advantages. But, all these properties are fully disclosed only when correct installation. So, you need to know how to make a corrugated fence correctly. Within the article, we will talk about the nuances of choosing a material, the specifics of its calculation, the types of a frame for a fence, we will describe how to attach a corrugated board and much more.

Do-it-yourself fence from corrugated board -
step by step guide from A to Z

Installation of a corrugated fence includes only screwing the sheet to the frame, this is a process consisting of several stages. Each of which we will describe in detail in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Stage 1. Scheme of a fence from corrugated board - from a sketch to a drawing

An arbitrary schematic drawing (sketch) is needed in order to visualize design features fence.

There are two types (types) of a fence made of corrugated board:

• solid;
• sectional.

It is the type of fence that determines the consumption of material and the methods of installing structural elements.

Apply to the drawing diagram:

• the location of the fence on the site. Helps to take into account the features of the site: relief, plantings, buildings, access roads, gate installation site, etc.;

• if the site is uneven (hill, low) put a place where there will be elevation changes. Manufacturers producing high-quality material produce profiled sheets with a length that is a multiple of 50 mm. this allows you to achieve visually the same height of the fence, despite the height differences on the ground.

• dimensions: fence height and length of individual straight sections;

• the location of the columns (supports);

Note. With a sectional fence, the width of the section is determined by the width of the sheet. It must be a multiple of 1, 1.5 or 2 sheets.

A detailed diagram simplifies the calculation of the material.

Stage 2. Corrugated fence materials

Construction will proceed quickly if the necessary materials for manufacturing are prepared in a timely manner.

What materials are needed for a corrugated fence:

1. Decking

When choosing a profiled sheet (corrugated sheet), you need to pay attention to the thickness (0.45-0.5 mm +/- 0.06 mm), wave height, absence of a capillary groove, parameters, coating, color and texture.

The profiled sheet has a high windage, this must be taken into account when planning the frame.

Note. The dimensions of the profiled sheet for the fence differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, this must be taken into account when choosing a material. It is also worth knowing that the warranty period for galvanized corrugated board is 20-30 years, and with polyester coating - up to 50 years (depending on the thickness of the layer).

2. Support posts (pillars)

Theoretically, any material can be used: wood, stone, metal.

When deciding which poles to use for the fence, keep in mind that the most simple and affordable option- metal pipes.

Rack parameters depend on the expected load. Usually pipes 60x40x2 mm or 40x40x2 mm are used. For round pipes diameter - 60-100 mm.

You can use purchased ready-made pipes for the fence (photo) (for any type of soil) or piles (normal soils and loams).

The advantage of ready-made supporting pillars is the presence of a “heel” for mounting on a pillow, holes for fixing corrugated board and a top plug that prevents water from entering the pillar.

3. Cross beams

For logs (beams) it makes sense to use square pipes 40x40x2 mm. or 40x20x2 mm. General recommendation- the width of the log is equal to half the width of the support column.

It is unacceptable to use wooden logs, due to the fact that the wood tends to rot at the place where the sheet is attached. This will not only reduce the life of the fence, but also prevent the sheet from being reused. The metal corner is also not suitable for logs, with a thickness of 2 mm it will not provide adequate resistance to wind load, and manufacturers do not recommend using a thicker one.

Note. A special self-tapping screw for corrugated board with a drill is designed for drilling metal with a thickness of not more than 2.5 mm. So the use of a thick-walled profile is fraught with additional drilling efforts.

4. Plate holder (bracket) for corrugated board

Special fasteners (brackets) are used when assembling the fence frame by a non-welding method, on hardware.

5. Plugs for poles (supports)

Plastic plugs perform a protective function so that water does not get inside the pipe.

In practice, the post is closed with a special pad or plastic bottle. Not very aesthetically pleasing, but certainly cheap, and good as a temporary fix.

6. Hardware

Needed for weldless assembly of the fence frame. To do this, use a bolt or screw M6 (30 and 20 mm). As well as self-tapping screws for fastening corrugated board or rivets.

Professionals advise using a self-tapping screw, because. it is equipped with an additional gasket (neoprene rubber), which allows you to tightly press the profiled sheet without damaging its surface. Its length is 15-35 mm.

Advice. When using rivets, the edges of the holes for them are recommended to be treated with special paint. This will prevent the rapid appearance of rust at the attachment point and the formation of rusty smudges on the corrugated board, which are very difficult to eliminate.

The paint is used to touch up scratches that may appear during the installation of the profiled sheet, as well as to paint over the cut on the sheet. Consumption is small, one can, as a rule, is enough.

8. Decorative end plate for decorating the fence

U-shaped bar (fence, cover), which is installed on the upper edge (edge) of the profiled sheet and protects users from possible cuts, and the sheet from rust.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Note. When buying, please note that the edges of the bar must be bent (rolled). Otherwise, they will not only scratch the metal during installation, but will lose their shape (the edges will move away from the sheet) during operation.

Additional materials and tools:

• cement, gravel, sand - for installing support pillars or arranging the foundation;

• level, plumb line, welding machine (and consumables), screwdriver, mortar containers, formwork boards (if necessary), shovel or drill, primer and anti-corrosion mortar for metal, riveter (if necessary), rope, goggles and gloves, grinder (if necessary, cutting profiled sheets).

Stage 3. Calculation of material for a corrugated fence

How to determine how much building material is required for manufacturing.

1. Calculation of the number of corrugated sheets:

• with a continuous fence - the total length of the fence is divided by the useful width of the sheet. Rounding goes up;

• at sectional. If the size of the section (span) is equal to the width of the sheet, the total width of the sheet is used. If it is planned to install one and a half or two sheets there - useful.

Note. The sheet can be installed both vertically and horizontally. At horizontal mount the height of the fence will be equal to 1, 2 or 3 working widths of the sheet. When vertical - is determined by the customer.

Advice. When calculating, do not operate with such a concept as the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe required corrugated board. Keep calculations in pieces at a given sheet height.

2. Calculation of the number of posts for a corrugated fence

The number of supports depends on the distance between the corrugated fence posts

• with a solid fence, the total length of the fence is divided by the estimated distance between the posts (racks). Taking into account the windage of the sheet, it is taken equal to 2,000 - 3,000 mm. It is not advisable to increase the distance, since this will lead to an increase in the thickness of the racks or the number of longitudinal logs.

• at sectional. The number is determined by the expected number of sections. When installing racks for mounting fence sections, you need to calculate in advance the distance between the posts so that it corresponds to the total (when installing one sheet per section) or useful (1.5-2 sheets) area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corrugated board.

Note. The calculations take into account that the support posts (pillars) must be installed at the corners of the fence, as well as at the installation site of the gate and / or gate. The number of intermediate supports is rounded down. And the difference is compensated by the deviation from the specified distance between the racks.

The size of the post is determined by the height of the fence, taking into account that the posts go deep into the soil by 30% of their length. Thus, with a fence height of 2,000, the height of the support post for a corrugated fence should be 2,600-2,700. For intermediate posts, an installation depth of 25% of the total fence height is permissible. Then the length of the rack will be 2,500 mm.

3. Calculation of the number of transverse logs

The amount depends on how the fence is installed.

• Masters advise using 2 logs with a fence height of up to 2,000 mm. Moreover, their distance from the edges of the corrugated board is 300 mm.

• With a fence height of more than 2,000 mm - 3 logs.

Thus, the total lag molding is determined by multiplying the total length of the fence by the number of crossbars.

4. Plate holder

The number of plates is equal to the number of support posts multiplied by the number of rows of logs.

5. Pole cap

The number of plugs is equal to the number of support posts. Plus 2-3 spare ones (useful during the operation of the fence).

6. Hardware

When calculating self-tapping screws, it is taken into account that fastening is carried out in two extreme waves and through two in the middle of the profiled sheet in each of transverse log. Thus, with two transverse lags, 6 pieces are required per sheet, with three - 9 pieces. The number of hardware is rounded multiple of the package (standard package - 250 pcs). Since, in the process of tightening the self-tapping screw, defects may occur.

When fastening with rivets, their consumption increases, since they are fastened along the edges and through the wave.

Standard packing of paint 50, 100, 200, 500, 900 gr. The choice depends on the length of the fence. Usually 50 gr. banks are enough.

8. Decorative end strip

The amount is equal to the length of the fence divided by the working length of the bar. The standard length of the plank is 2,000 mm, the working length (including overlap) is 1850-1950 mm.

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Stage 4. Do-it-yourself fence installation from corrugated board

Installation technology step by step:

1. Site preparation

Cleaning the ground surface of everything that will interfere with the installation of sheets and poles.

2. Foundation and / or installation of support posts

Note. The destruction of the corrugated sheet begins at the point of contact with the ground surface. Pebbles, dirt, mechanical damage lead to the appearance of defects precisely from the bottom of the sheet. In addition, the uneven terrain of the site often creates difficulties in the installation of supports. That is why the foundation for a fence made of corrugated board is an obligatory stage in the installation of a fence.

What is the best foundation for a corrugated fence?

Soil research usually helps to decide on which foundation to put a fence from a profiled sheet in a particular area. But since the fence made of corrugated board is a relatively light construction, the usual one is suitable for it. Its optimal depth is 300-400 mm, and the minimum width of the foundation for a corrugated fence is determined by the width of the support post (columns).

We will not dwell on how to fill the foundation. But we note such a nuance, the depth of the pit at the place of installation of the base support posts (along the edges of the fence, corners, at the place of installation of the gate) should be 1/3 of their height + 100-150 mm for installing a pillow under the sole of the stand. For intermediate posts - 1/4 of the height of the support + the height of the pillow. This will eliminate the influence of groundwater and soil freezing on the rack.

Preparation and installation of formwork is no different from arranging a strip foundation for a house or gazebo.

First of all, base support posts are installed (along the edges of even sections of the fence), a rope is pulled between them and intermediate posts are installed along it. At the place of installation of the support posts, the soil is removed with a drill, a gravel-sand cushion is poured, on which the posts are installed. In this case, metal pipes should be treated with an anti-corrosion solution.

Users note that it is better to concrete the racks by 100-150 mm. So they remain stable when reinforcing the formwork and filling it with concrete. If it is planned to compact the pillars, then the pillow should be made 200-250 mm high and the racks should be hammered into it. This method is more laborious, but less costly and reliable.

Advice. The use of a level and a plumb line when installing racks is mandatory.

A simpler option would be to install support racks without arranging the foundation. Installation requirements are the same. The depth is 1/3 or 1/4 of the length of the rack, depending on the place of its installation, the thickness of the gravel-sand cushion is 100-150 mm, mandatory treatment with an anti-corrosion solution, checking the level and reliable concreting.

Note. In practice, corrugated fence posts are installed with deviations from the above technology. This is justified with stable soils.

Alternative ways to install the racks are shown in the diagram.

3. Mounting lag

Fastening of a professional flooring is carried out on cross logs. They are mounted on support posts after they are securely concreted. In this case, it is impossible to rush work, because. this can cause the rack to deviate from the vertical.

The cross joists can be welded or screwed to the support posts. Masters recommend using a holder plate (bracket) for these purposes. Thus, the plate is screwed to the support post, and the lag to the plate, this makes the project a little longer and more expensive, but the fastening is considered more reliable.

Three ways to attach the log to the support posts (photo)

- in front of the column butt. The method is ideal for the construction of solid fences;

- behind the post using a holder (bracket). Suitable for sectional fences;

- side of the post. The advantage of this method is that the corrugated board can be attached not only to the log, but also to the supporting column, which makes the structure more stable. But, the duration of work and the consumption of self-tapping screws increases. Suitable for sectional fences.

Note. With a significant slope of the site, the transverse logs are mounted with an offset, as shown in the photo.

A fully finished frame is covered with an anti-corrosion primer and paint.

4. Decorative design of columns

This stage is possible only if a sectional type of corrugated fence is selected. Here, the installed metal support posts can be overlaid with bricks or lined with stone. According to many users, a fence made of corrugated board with brick pillars looks more beautiful and presentable than with metal racks or even solid.

Note. A similar decor of the fence supports is thought out at the planning stage. Because the presence of brickwork makes adjustments to the distance between the pillars, and hence the number of sheets mounted in the section.

Of course, you can make a decision to finish the racks with bricks at any stage, but you should be prepared for the fact that the profiled sheet will have to be cut to length, and this will lead to waste not only of the sheet, but also of paint, and cutting tools, time and money.

Users agree that this work should be entrusted to mason masters, because. precisely laying bricks in this case determine the aesthetic properties of the fence. If you decide to do the work yourself, then you should know:

• it is expedient to use decorative brick High Quality(chips and efflorescence are unacceptable);

• adhere to the same thickness of the masonry seam;

• tie every third row with a metal mesh (reinforce);

• the void between the masonry and the support pipe is completely filled with concrete mortar;

• make a decorative element at the top of the pillar.

5. Installation of corrugated board on the fence

To avoid the appearance of rust, you need to know how to fix the corrugated board correctly.

Rivets or special self-tapping screws are used to fasten the profiled sheet to each other and to the log. Installation begins based on the configuration of the sheet. One of the extreme waves of the sheet is covered (left or right depends on the manufacturer's equipment). The first sheet is mounted in such a way that the covering wave of the next one closes the wave of the previous one, and not vice versa. In order not to encounter a situation where a sheet cut near the gate refuses, installation must begin with these elements.

Advice. To ensure ventilation, it is necessary to make the distance of the sheet along the soil surface 50-100 mm.

The profiled sheet must be fixed along the edges to each of the transverse logs. One mount is in the middle of the sheet. If the fence is being built in a windy region, it is advisable to fasten the hardware through two waves.

How to properly fix the profiled sheet?

To screw a self-tapping screw into corrugated board, you also need to have certain skills. Namely, to know that a self-tapping screw:

• "jumping" of the self-tapping screw threatens to damage the front surface of the corrugated board.

6. Installation of additional elements

In fact, the installation of a fence made of corrugated board ends with the steps described above. However, manufacturers, craftsmen and experienced users recommend covering the upper end of the profiled sheet with a special decorative U-shaped strip (end fence strip).

The overlay will give the fence an aesthetic appearance and exclude damage to users from the sharp edges of the sheet.

The bar is simply put on the sheet, so when ordering, pay attention to its width.

For corrugated board with a wave height of 8 mm, you need a strip 10 mm wide (including rolling) or 8 mm (without rolling).

Please note that the corrugated board of most manufacturers is painted in color only on one side. The unpainted gray side looks towards the house. If trees, shrubs or grapes are planted along the fence, this will hide the unpresentable appearance of the fence.

Stage 5 Cleaning the area after the construction of the fence

Cleaning is the logical conclusion of the construction process. Cleaning is necessary in order to avoid injury by cuttings of corrugated board, scattered self-tapping screws and to give the site a well-groomed appearance.

Do-it-yourself fence installation from corrugated board - video

Installation of corrugated fences - price for work and material

Material	The cost of a fence from corrugated board with manual installation (the price of the material is indicated)	The cost of installing a fence from corrugated board subject to the involvement of hired workers (only work without material)
Decking	140-680 rub/sq.m.
Pipe 60x60x2	110 rub/m.p.
Pipe 40x40x2	70 rub/m.p.
Pipe 40x20x2	60 rub/m.p.
Plate holder	80-150 rub/pc.
Pole cap	1.7-59 rub/piece
Hardware (self-tapping screw)	2.5-5.3 rubles / piece.
180 rub/piece (cylinder)
End plate (2000 mm)	60-110 rub/pc.
Cement	175 rubles / 50 kg.
Sand	80 rubles / 50 kg.
Gravel, fraction 20-40 mm.	100 rubles / 40 kg.
Nerjamet-Grunt - alkyd primer for metal	210 rub/kg.
Foundation device	0	5 000 rub. per sq.m. (price depends on soil type)
Drilling a hole or driving a pile	0	From 200 rubles / piece.
Pillar concreting	0	From 500 rubles / piece.
lag mount	0	From 50 rub/m.p.
Fixing a corrugated sheet	0	From 200 rub/m.p.

The total cost of building a corrugated fence is determined based on the need for one or another type of material.

The cost of installing a turnkey corrugated fence (price per meter of work, materials with installation) is shown in the table.

Conclusion

The fence made of corrugated board looks great, endures any temperature changes and all kinds of atmospheric phenomena. But there are two weak points - windage and poor-quality installation. We hope that the information provided here will allow us to take into account and eliminate both of these shortcomings in a timely manner.

First of all, the happy owner of a summer cottage wants to make a fence in the country with his own hands in order to protect his possessions. If you are puzzled over how to make fences, you need to know some of the nuances.

Types of fences: metal from corrugated board, brick, slate, mesh, concrete, stone.

Why are fences needed and why are they erected? Everyone knows the main task of the fence is to determine the boundaries of the property of the territory. Second - the fence serves as a fence for your garden and garden from wild animals and prying eyes. The fence is an integral part of the interior in the country. It should be in harmony with the design of your hacienda.

How to put up a fence in the country with your own hands? Some turn to specialists for help, others want to build a fence in the country with their own hands. Doing the installation yourself will not take much time and effort. It will also help you save some money. Before proceeding with the installation, arm yourself with all the necessary tools and materials.

Assembling a wooden fence

One common type of fence is wood. It attracts with its natural origin, availability and reasonable price. Of the shortcomings, a short service life stands out, it requires attention and processing. To build a homemade wooden fence you will need:

• support posts (asbestos, brick, iron, wood);
• bars (5-10 cm wide);
• boards (85 to 145 mm, height optional),
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver

Prepare recesses measuring 100-150 cm at a distance of 2 m, install racks in them. Next, fasten the crossbars to the racks and screw the boards to the resulting structure. Don't forget the door too. Now that the country fence is assembled, it must be treated with varnish or paint.

Fence in the country from profiled flooring

Another type of fence that you can make yourself from profiled flooring. Its exterior is not particularly pretty, but it is distinguished by its durability and does not require special care. You can put up a fence yourself within a few days, for this you need to prepare:

• profiled pipes or racks with a diameter of at least 50 mm;
• flat profiled pipes for logs 40 * 20 mm;
• profiled sheets;
• roofing screws;
• hammer, drill, level, drill and more.

If the inventory is ready, you can get down to business. When assembling a fence from corrugated board, you can concrete racks for strength.

The process of installing a fence in a summer cottage:

1. Make holes in the ground with a depth of at least 1 m.
2. The recesses are filled with gravel 20 cm in height, then they are determined into the resulting rack niche and adjusted to the level.
3. Pour a pre-prepared concrete mixture or use a ready-made solution.

After the cement has hardened, it is necessary to weld the transverse pipes to the racks and fix the profile sheets with roofing screws. Another profile flooring can be fixed with a special gun. To connect the decking with rivets, use a rectangular profiled pipe for the cross beams. Drill holes equal to the diameter of the rivet. Purchase a rivet and rivet gun.

Fence in the country from the chain-link

Often you can find a country fence made of chain-link. It is convenient for those who grow vegetables and fruits, as it does not obscure the site. Country fences from a grid of the chain-link will serve a long time. To put a fence of this material with your own hands, you need the following:

• netting;
• iron pipes(with a zinc layer and a section of 70 mm);
• intermediate pillars (wooden, iron, etc.);
• wire (3 mm);
• soft wire;
• connecting bolts;
• concrete solution.

To get started, you need to make markings for the main and intermediate posts: the distance between the main posts should not exceed 9 m and no more than 3 m between the intermediate ones.

1. Dig recesses for the main pillars of 60 cm and 40 cm for intermediate ones.
2. The poles are immersed in prepared pits and poured with concrete mortar to the middle of the pit.
3. After all the racks are set, make the required number of holes for the wire.
4. When the concrete mortar in the pits has completely hardened, they can be covered with earth, and then the chain-link can be pulled and secured with connecting bolts.

hedge building

A hedge is the same fence only from evergreens. They are very beautiful, but require special attention. Let's start building a hedge for a summer residence.

Planted in the first row of hedges berry plants or shrubs, in the second - tall trees or bushes. When choosing plants for planting in the form of a hedge, it is better to plant those that have been tested for survival in the climatic conditions of the region.

They must be frost-resistant, unpretentious, with a dense crown that quickly recovers after shearing and an excellent ability to form shoots.

Shrubs are planted at a distance of about 30-50 cm, and trees 75-150 cm. Hedges made of lilac, jasmine, etc. look spectacular. Before planting, you need to outline the line of the future fence with a stretched rope. A trench 50 cm deep is dug along the line. The bottom of the trench must be loosened and mixed with peat, humus and compost. Plant plants in spring or autumn.

During the season, it is necessary to care for and monitor the plants, water, fertilize and trim in time. Now often in the dachas you can see such hedges. A do-it-yourself fence on a personal plot from a hedge goes well with the landscape.

How to build a wicker fence in the country?

A wicker fence looks very original in the country. To build it yourself, you need:

• pegs;
• vine or thin flexible twigs (willow or hazel);
• wooden or iron racks.

We build a fence in the country and prepare inventory:

1. Choose even, well-dried lozenges 2-3 cm thick.
2. They dig a trench 50 cm deep and hammer in pre-treated stakes or racks. So that they do not stand out, they can be painted to match the color of the selected vine.
3. Next, mark the line and drive the branches to the entire depth of the groove. This is necessary in order for the fence to be strong.
4. Secure the extreme branches at their top with wire. Before you start weaving, soak the vines in water in advance: this will make them flexible and pliable.

So that the building is still for a long time pleasing to the eye, it can be processed protective equipment for wood.

Brick fence for a summer residence

Those who are not limited financially can afford to build a brick fence. This species has a lot of advantages: it is quite strong, reliable, wear-resistant, does not need special care. But there are also disadvantages: its cost is quite high, it is difficult to put up a fence alone without helpers.

It is possible to construct such a fence with your own hands, but in this case it is better to contact the master of this business. Let's look at the main necessary components for the construction of a brick fence:

1. Make an estimate and calculate the cost of material and the cost of the services of the master.
2. Prepare the required amount of raw materials, bricks, cement, gravel, sand, rebar, etc.
3. Mark the required area with a tape measure, level, nylon rope and drive in the pegs.
4. Prepare a trench for the foundation, fill in the sand and gravel, water it so that everything is compacted.

Build a form from the boards and lay the reinforcement. Concrete mortar is poured into the formwork and left to harden. After a week, the formwork can be removed and the foundation treated with a waterproofing compound. They lay out a brick on the foundation in several rows, put orders in the corners with the help of nails. Fix the bricks with concrete mortar.

Above are all the key options that an amateur summer resident can build with his own hands. When planning the construction of a fence, try to determine the golden mean, based on your desires, capabilities and budget.

Foreword

As practice shows, putting a fence on the site is within the power of everyone. Even the most massive structures are easy to install, if you approach the work responsibly and first perform the appropriate preparations.

Content

Video fences.

As practice shows, putting a fence on the site is within the power of everyone. Even the most massive structures are easy to install if you approach the work responsibly and pre-perform the appropriate preparatory measures. Installing a fence in the country is not only an attempt to protect the territory from prying eyes and uninvited guests. It is also a decoration of the site, giving it completeness.

In the concept of "the right fence in the country" everyone puts his own vision of this fence. It can be both, and wire fencing, and fences made of logs, reinforced concrete, corrugated board and decorative concrete, sectional and forged fences and much more. From such a variety, you can always choose the right option. At the same time, it is important that the fence is made of the same material as the gate, and fits into the overall design of the site.

As well as the construction of the gate, correct installation fence or fence requires preliminary work - the preparation of the construction site and the concreting of the supporting pillars. Completion of all work - painting finished gates and fences.

Speaking about different types of fences, one should not forget about such a variant of the fence as a hedge from shrub plants planted close to each other. A hedge not only limits space and protects the site from wind and dust, but also looks much more beautiful and aesthetic than a regular fence. From a design point of view, a hedge is preferable for a small area where it is impossible to use more voluminous landscape design elements. This version of the fence is more practical and economical, since you do not have to spend money on building materials.

In this article, you will learn how to make a fence in a summer cottage with your own hands, using different types structures.

Preparing to install a fence in a summer cottage

For concreting the fence supports, you will need a garden and earth drill, a level, a bayonet shovel, a drill, a concrete mortar, a wooden beam, reinforcement, roofing felt, and plastic bags.

The first thing to do is to prepare for the installation of a fence in a summer cottage, that is, to clear the place where the supports will be installed. To do this, using a bayonet shovel, cut the sod in the selected place, remove the roots and dig a hole 1.5 m deep.

You can also use a garden drill, then the size of the well will depend on its diameter. But in any case, it is necessary to drill as deep as possible - by 1.5-1.7 m, i.e., to the depth of soil freezing. It is better to remove the extracted soil immediately to a place previously designated for this. If the diameter of the garden auger is small, an earthen auger should be used.

Having drilled a well of the required depth, it is necessary to immerse the expander on the plow into it - a device with which an anchor extension is made at the bottom of the well. This expansion is done so that in frost the pillar-support is not pushed out of it, but remains in place.

Before you put up a fence with your own hands, you need to take care of isolation from groundwater. To do this, a tube is made of roofing material, on one end of which is put on plastic bag, and the structure is placed in a dug hole. To keep the tube in place, you can build a low formwork box from scraps of boards and install it above ground level. After that, you can start concreting the supports.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to make a fence foundation in the country with your own hands.

How to make the foundation of the fence in the country with your own hands (with photos and videos)

Before putting up a fence, in order to increase the stability and strength of the structure, metal supports are first driven into the ground, which are then concreted by pouring the mortar into the well. This method of concreting significantly increases the resistance to loosening of the fence by the wind and its deformation due to seasonal swelling of the soil. This method is called spot concreting.

There are other ways to provide the fence with a reliable foundation, for example, dry concreting, when the fence support post is immersed in the well, covered with a mixture of crushed stone and sand, and then filled with water for better adhesion. But a heavy or massive fence on such supports may not withstand heavy loads and will loosen over time. Therefore, this method of concreting supports can only be suitable for a light, elegant fence.

Under the fence, it can also be tape, and although this method is more expensive and time-consuming, it is nevertheless very reliable. Before you make a fence with your own hands, you first need to dig trenches. Their depth depends on the height of the fence: the higher the structure, the deeper the trenches must be and the heavier the underground part of the fence, otherwise it will collapse if made of logs or other heavy material. For example, if the height of the fence is 1.8 m, then the depth of the trench should be at least 0.5 m and plus another 20 cm for a sand cushion.

Then, according to the correct technology for installing the fence, concrete is poured or a base of crushed stone is laid. The concrete foundation needs to be brought out only to ground level or slightly higher, then the above-ground part will become the base of the fence. To build a fence with your own hands, when laying a stone tape, you need to select pieces of rock so that they fit one to another as closely as possible.

If there are voids between large stones, they must be filled with smaller pieces of stone. After the stones are laid out in this way, the foundation is cemented.

These photos show how to make the foundation of the fence with your own hands:

All methods of concreting ensure the stability of the structure, make it more durable and protect metal support pillars from corrosion.

During the melting of snow, due to the close standing of groundwater to the surface of the earth, the water level rises and pushes the structure up. Then the supporting column sticks out of the ground along with the concrete, which cracks. And this is perhaps the only drawback of this method of strengthening the supports, but it is extremely rare. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to find out how close to the surface of the earth there are groundwater in a given area.

Watch the video on how to make the foundation of the fence with your own hands, observing all the technological rules:

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence installation technology

Chain-link mesh is considered one of the most popular types of metal fencing. This structure is inexpensive, easy to install and at the same time very durable.

The chain-link mesh, unfortunately, cannot hide the site from prying eyes, but in some suburban communities such a through fence between the sites is required. Where this is not necessary, you can find a way out by planting shrubs or climbing plants along the fence. They will create a green fence and help hide from prying eyes, and in addition, they will protect the site from wind and dust.

Before you install such a fence correctly, keep in mind that there are several types of chain-link mesh - black, galvanized and polymer-coated. The black chain-link is the cheapest and easiest way to protect the site. This mesh looks quite decent, and you can paint it once every 3-4 years. Galvanized mesh does not need to be painted at all, it will last a long time, but it costs a little more. Polymer coated mesh is the most expensive, but also looks expensive. Usually such a grid is green and goes well with the greenery on the site without spoiling its general appearance. In addition, you can buy this type of mesh complete with support poles, a tension device and ready-made wickets and gates.

Installing a chain-link fence on the site yourself, as practice shows, is not difficult at all. First you need to take all the necessary measurements (the perimeter of the site), then purchase the material. The chain-link is sold in rolls, you only need to measure the mesh of the desired length from the roll. Next, you will need galvanized iron pipes with a diameter of 70 mm for support pillars. To install the corner support pillars, metal supports are additionally used (two for each pillar).

To install such a fence with your own hands, you will also need intermediate poles (iron or wooden) with a diameter of 30-35 mm, a wire rod with a cross section of 3 mm and a length equal to the length of the fence, plus a small margin for attaching to the supporting poles. In addition, you will need bolts with a large eye for the screed, knitting wire with a cross section of 2 mm, as well as concrete mortar for pouring poles.

Before you install a chain-link fence with your own hands, you need to mark the fence, mark the contours of the pits for installing supporting and intermediate pillars. Typically, support poles are installed every 8-10 m, and the distance between intermediate ones is approximately 3 m.

Then pits are dug for supporting pillars with a depth of 0.6-0.7 m. For intermediate pillars, it is enough that the depth of the pit is 0.4 m. Not very deep pits are also dug for supports of corner pillars.

After that, the pillars are installed, the side supports are attached to the corner ones. In each tension pole with a drill, you need to do 2-3 through holes, through which transverse veins of wire rod will be stretched.

The next step in installing a chain-link fence on the site is to check how even the support pillars are, moisten the earth in the pits and fill them with concrete. Concrete must be poured into the pits up to half, and the rest must be filled with earth. concrete mortar will harden in a day, then it will be possible to continue work.

Insert one tie bolt into each hole drilled in the corner support posts and fasten them with nuts, and then pull the transverse veins of wire rod. First, the lower vein is pulled - one end of the wire is fixed in the ear of the first tie bolt, then it is strongly pulled, drawn to the next corner post and fixed in the second tie bolt, etc. The ends of all veins must be very tightly twisted. Veins can be tied to intermediate posts with soft wire. If wooden intermediate posts are used, then the veins can be attached to them using staples that are easily driven into the wood.

Having pulled all the veins, the chain-link mesh itself is attached to them. In accordance with the correct installation technology for such a fence, it must be fixed at regular intervals with soft wire. The edges of the net on the supporting extreme posts should be fixed with soft wire, wrapping it several times around the post and capturing the edges of the net.

After you have installed the fence, you can proceed to the device of the gate and gate.

Installing simple fences with your own hands (with video)

Wire fence - the simplest and most cheap look fence, which you can install with your own hands. The wire fence allows you to exactly repeat the terrain, which is especially important for areas with difficult terrain. But over time, such a fence can sag, and gaps form, especially if the wire is not initially stretched very tightly. Such a fence will not look very beautiful, so it is important to do everything correctly and efficiently from the very beginning.

First, just as when pulling the chain-link mesh, the supporting and intermediate pillars are installed and concreted, and then the wire is attached to them in parallel rows. The distance between the rows of wire should be 20-25 cm.

As shown in the photo, when installing such a fence with your own hands, you need to stretch the wire and fasten it to the posts very strongly so that it does not sag:

For greater strength of such a fence, intermediate vertical wire broaches are sometimes made, which are fastened with horizontal rows of soft wire.

Sectional fences make the job much easier, as they are manufactured in the factory and sold in ready-made sections. As with the previous methods of work, support poles are first installed, to which they are then attached with screws or finished sections are welded.

The sectional fence serves for a very long time, in addition, it does not require special care - the metal spans of such a fence can be painted once every 3-4 years. Such a fence gives the site a refined and complete look, only its cost can confuse. Therefore, if the site is very large, you should think about how much such a fence will cost, and maybe choose something simpler.

This video shows how to put up the simplest fence with your own hands:

How to make beautiful forged and log fences with your own hands (with video)

Like sectional fencing, wrought iron fences took worthy place among other types of garden fences. They are very expensive, but once spent on such a fence, in the future you can avoid unnecessary trouble. As they say, this is a fence for life, not to mention the fact that it looks flawless and majestic, complementing the overall look of the site. Such a beautiful fence is installed with your own hands in the same way as the fences described above, only to install the supporting pillars you will need to dig deeper holes so that the heavy fence does not collapse during operation. To strengthen the structure, you can even dig trenches under strip foundation especially if the fence is high enough.

A log fence on a modern site is both reliable protection, and environmental friendliness, and an excellent design solution. The type of such a fence can be different, it all depends on your own preferences and capabilities. To make a beautiful fence with your own hands, logs or hewn boards can be installed vertically, like a palisade, or horizontally, close or at intervals. You can also make an elegant curly fence. Each option has its pros and cons.

In any case, before the construction of the fence, logs and other wooden details must be treated with antiseptics.

If, when installing a fence in a country house with your own hands, the logs are placed vertically, they are traditionally buried in the ground or poured with a strip foundation. It is also possible to install logs on a transverse beam raised above the ground, which, in turn, must be fastened at the ends to the supporting pillars that divide the entire structure into sections. IN last case there is an opportunity to dream up, for example, to supplement the fence with a stone plinth, on which logs will then be laid out, or to make a foundation of red or white brick, dividing it into sections with pillars also made of brick.

A significant disadvantage of log fences is that the logs dug into the ground sooner or later begin to rot, so the lower part of the logs has to be carefully processed. When pouring logs with concrete, also in order to protect the logs from decay, it is necessary to make a high strip foundation. All this means additional consumption of materials. The most profitable option in this case would be a fence with horizontally laid logs on a stone base. Such a fence will look beautiful, and can be kept in good condition for a long time.

If you want to protect against the penetration of strangers on the site, you need to build a very high fence. If it is planned decorative fencing, then the fence may well be of any height in the style of a ranch.

As shown in the photo, for a beautiful log fence erected by one's own hands, it is better to use rounded logs:

Although this material is more expensive, it will allow for a better fit. individual parts. Therefore, a finished fence made of horizontal or vertical logs will look more neat and sound.

In addition, snow does not accumulate between rows of horizontally laid and perfectly fitted logs, which means that during the thaw there will be less dampness at the joints. And the main thing is that such processed logs no longer require additional finishing.

When installing a vertical log fence, they dig a trench, the depth of which depends on the height of the fence, and put support poles with concrete pouring or cement tape. Pillars between sections can be stone, brick or metal pipe large section.

See a photo of how to make a beautiful log fence with your own hands:

When using stone or brick support pillars, a profile must necessarily pass in their central part, to which thick metal rods are then welded. They must be welded horizontally, so that they come out of the masonry and fall on the central axis of the logs laid later.

In accordance with this, at the ends of the logs, it is necessary to make a hole for the rod on one side and cut it to the length of the radius on the other. When laying the log on one rod will be mounted, and on the other it will move from top to bottom.

To protect the logs from moisture and prevent their rotation, it is recommended to coat the joints with resin or mastic during the laying process.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to properly install a reinforced concrete fence in the country.

How to build a reinforced concrete fence in the country with your own hands (with video)

Fences made of reinforced concrete are both reliable and elegant, and even decorative thanks to the modern production of reinforced concrete products. They have a lot of advantages, but there are a few things to keep in mind when using them.

Reinforced concrete fence provides maximum protection. This is a very strong and impressive structure that allows you to protect a site of any size - both small and huge, with both simple and complex terrain. There are movable types of fences, which, if necessary, are easily disassembled and assembled, there are also those with which you can create intricate shapes and figures. There are also decorative fences from concrete, which have a variety of textures, colors and other decorative elements.

The fence made of reinforced concrete is heat and moisture resistant. It withstands any temperature fluctuations, which greatly increases its service life, is easy to install and does not require special knowledge and skills.

However, this type of fence has its drawbacks - for example, they are very heavy, which complicates their transportation and installation. But even with these disadvantages, a reinforced concrete fence allows, after all the troubles associated with its installation, to forget about it for many years.

There are two types of reinforced concrete fences - prefabricated and independent. Prefabricated are mounted in specially made concrete cups, where support pillars are first installed. Self-supporting fences are installed on a special platform, which is connected to the base of the fence slab itself.

To make a reinforced concrete fence the way it suggests right technology, it is necessary to mark its contours on the site. Then it will only be necessary to deliver the blocks to the intended places of their installation. And this will require a crane with a lifting capacity of 3-4 tons, a cable of the appropriate carrying capacity, a hammer-sledgehammer and scrap. After the blocks are placed around the perimeter, you can proceed with their installation on site.

To build a reinforced concrete fence in the country with your own hands, depending on the total mass finished product, special support pillars and a special foundation are used. A strip or pile concrete foundation is usually used.

A relatively light fence can be installed on a pile foundation. These fences include products made of concrete grade M100-M200.

Under installation on garden plot a fence made of concrete grade M150-M250 will require a strip foundation, on which the entire fence structure will rest. The brand of concrete M250-M350 indicates the presence of reinforcing elements in monolithic slabs. These are plates of the highest quality, respectively, and their mass is greater.

There are decorative plates that imitate brick, stone, wood, etc. They can be smooth or embossed, deaf or through, including metal sections. The possibility of dyeing also allows you to get an original and attractive finished product.

Such structures can be made to order, choosing at will the type, shape, and size of the sections. Thus, it is possible to purchase exactly the product that will fully satisfy the needs of the customer. In this case, it all depends on financial capabilities, but by spending money on fence material, you can save on its installation.

To build a reinforced concrete fence with your own hands correctly, watch this video:

How to put a corrugated fence on the site with your own hands (with video)

Another popular material for building a fence is corrugated board. It is inexpensive, but it looks quite presentable and can last a long time without requiring additional care. The main advantage of corrugated board is the ease of building a fence using it.

First, as in all other cases, it is necessary to measure the perimeter of the site, and hence the length of the fence, in order to determine right amount sheets of corrugated board and additional materials. This will depend on the design of the fence and your own preferences. Metal supports dug deep into the ground are taken as the basis.

Sheets of corrugated board can be mounted on logs from a profile pipe. This construction option will be the easiest and cheapest. If the supporting pillars are made of brick, concrete or other material, then more time and money will have to be spent on the construction of the fence.

For steel supports, profile pipes with a cross section of 40 x 25 mm should be used, while corrugated sheets can be up to 2 m high.

Before you put such a fence on the site, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material. This is done as follows: the length of the fence is divided by 3 (by the number of pillars) and multiplied by 2 (by the number of profile pipes). The pillars must be installed at a distance of 2.5-3 m from each other, at least two profile pipes are required for fastening metal sheets. This is a standard calculation, but the numbers can be adjusted at your own discretion.

The required number of sheets of corrugated board depends on their width, while it should be borne in mind that it is better to fasten the sheets vertically.

Before installing the fence yourself, watch the instructional video:

When everything you need is bought at a warehouse or building materials market and delivered to the site, you can proceed to preparatory work- clearing the working platform, leveling the ground, marking holes for poles. You can, of course, just drive the pillars into the ground to a depth of 1-1.2 m, but this is not at all easy, so it is better to dig holes and concrete the pillars in them. It is important that they stand even after the concrete has hardened, otherwise the fence will look lopsided.

When the concrete hardens, logs from small shaped pipes are welded to the support pillars. Pipes should be welded to the posts in two rows, although the number of rows may vary at one's own discretion.

The first line of lags should pass at a height of 25 cm from the ground, the second - at the same distance from the top edge of the fence. You can mark the attachment points directly on the sheets of corrugated board.

Now you can attach the steel sheets to the base. It is recommended to do this with the help of roofing screws, which easily enter the material and hold the corrugated board very tightly. If somewhere the sheets do not fit in width into the perimeter of the fence as an integer, they will have to be cut. It is better to do this on the hollows of the corrugated sheet and at a distance of at least 0.5 m from the edge, although this largely depends on the width and thickness of the sheet.

The corrugated board should be fixed as tightly as possible so that there is no free play between the sheets, otherwise in windy weather they will behave like sails.

To prevent water from entering the support pillars, it is advisable to weld metal visors to them. This completes the hard work of building the fence, it remains only to paint the posts and logs.

Fences made of wood and metal need protection from moisture. To prevent possible decay of wooden structures, you can treat them with creosote. This reliable means protection, but it should be borne in mind that creosote stains the surface in a brick color. Perhaps this is just what is required for harmonious combination architectural elements throughout the site. Otherwise, it is better to choose another tool. In addition, the surface of the product previously covered with creosote cannot be repainted in the future, since creosote always shows through any paint.

Metal structures can be protected from rust by painting with a special paint for metal.

This video demonstrates how to properly install a corrugated fence:

Painting after installing a fence in the garden

For each material used in the building, the most suitable coloring agent should be used.

There are a lot of types of paints and varnishes, so we will consider only the most popular ones that are suitable for the previously described materials for fences.

After installation, do-it-yourself painting of the fence is done with a brush, spray gun or paint roller. It is not difficult to paint a wrought iron fence, which cannot be said about a chain-link mesh, and the smaller its cells, the more difficult it will be to paint over them. The mesh fence is best painted with a brush. The paint roller is suitable for painting solid surfaces - for example, metal sheets, solid sections or a solid wooden fence. A spray gun is also not suitable for painting through structures, since most of the paint will be wasted. This fixture is suitable for painting large parts or a solid fence.

Wooden fences are most susceptible to rot and mold, so they need constant careful maintenance. To protect them, coating and glazing antiseptics are used, as well as acrylate and oil paint.

Antiseptics penetrate deep into the wood and help protect it from destructive external influences.

Covering opaque materials allow you to completely hide the texture of wood, preserving only its relief.

Glazing materials are translucent, so they allow you to preserve the texture of wood, only giving it a light shade. Their service life is 3-5 years.

Oil paint penetrates deep into the wood and serves as reliable protection from atmospheric phenomena, but it dries slowly and burns out over time. Service life - 5-7 years.

Watch a video of painting a wooden fence built by yourself:

Acrylate paint protects wood well from dampness and mold, retains shine and color longer than oil paint. In addition, it is vapor-permeable, that is, it allows the tree to breathe and has a pleasant elasticity. Service life - 7-9 years.

Before painting, the surface of metal and slate must be cleaned with sandpaper, removing roughness, rust or old peeling paint.

For coloring metal structures a paint capable of protecting the surface from corrosion should be used first of all. There are a number of anti-corrosion paints and enamels that help preserve metal structures. Even if rust appears on the metal, this can be dealt with by using a special “converter” paint designed to cover the corroded areas.

Epoxy, rubber, organosilicon, polyvinyl chloride, alkyd and traditional oil paints are used to cover metal structures. In addition, special varnishes are used - asphalt, bituminous and pitch. Their only drawback is the black color.

It is customary to paint galvanized and aluminum fences with dispersion paint. The service life of such a coating is 5 years.

Slate fences are considered the lowest budget ones. They are often installed for temporary fencing of the site, although after painting, such fences acquire a more aesthetic appearance and look quite decent. For slate there is a special paint of both foreign and domestic production, which protects it from the appearance of moss and lichen on it. You can apply paint to the surface with a regular brush, spray gun or roller. Its service life is 8 years.

How is the painting of slate or metal fence after installation with your own hands, it is shown in this video: