≡× MENU

• Repair
• Repair
• Interior Design
• About everything
• About plumbing

Wooden fence on the site - do-it-yourself installation. How to make a wooden fence on metal poles with your own hands? How to make a wooden fence on metal poles

The hut is strong with constipation, and the yard with a fence. It's good when the neighbor is close and the fence is low. Without a fence and constipation, you will not be protected from a thief. There is no fence without poles. The higher the fences, the better the neighbors.

Only a few proverbs testify to the fact that since ancient times a lot of attention has been paid to fences. Time passes, technologies and building materials change, but the desire to protect your site with wooden material does not go away. What is the reason for such love for wooden fences, how to make a beautiful wooden fence with your own hands - let's try to figure it out.

Peculiarities

IN middle lane In Russia, wood has always been considered the most popular building material. Its accessibility made it possible to build huts and baths, make furniture and utensils even for very poor people. Another thing is places where wood is a luxury. In this case, a wooden fence is a sign of the wealth of the owner of the house:

• Thus, the first feature of the use of wood in the creation of a fence can be called a tradition based on accessibility.
• The second feature is a demonstration of wealth or one's own skills and abilities.
• An important factor in the use of such fences is practicality: for example, you can put up the simplest fence to protect livestock, and if necessary, dismantle it and transfer it to a new pasture.
• Environmental friendliness is another feature. A bench placed under the fence will allow you to enjoy the aroma essential oils exuded by boards or slats. Wood will never be hot or cold like metal. It will perfectly absorb, unlike stone, most of the street sounds.
• If necessary, in most cases, you can replace a fragment of the fence or repair the existing one.
• Limiting a large perimeter (for example, a private house with a garden) is a costly business if you put up a stone or metal fence. But a do-it-yourself braid can do for free.

Summarizing all of the above, we can name two main functions of a wooden fence:

• protection of the territory and households;
• decorative design.

At the same time, it can protect:

• house and all household plot;
• only courtyard buildings with a corral for animals;
• only a front garden;
• flower bed or flower garden.

According to the degree of penetration of the gaze, a wooden fence can be:

• deaf;
• translucent;
• transparent.

Advantages and disadvantages

Indeed, such a fence has a lot of advantages compared to other materials:

• comfortable temperature of wooden elements at any time of the year and day;
• opportunity self-manufacturing and installation without invited masters and complex tools;
• vast expanse for decor;
• the choice of color depends solely on the desire of the owner, not the manufacturer;
• the ability to apply unusual geometry and shape in general;
• goes well with stone and brick, metal and concrete, mesh and waste material.

It would seem that there are no shortcomings. But this is not so: a wooden fence requires constant care. But if this is done regularly, then he will delight with his beauty for many years.

The service life will depend on the climatic zone and soil quality.

Kinds

Before starting the construction of the fence of the required site, the owner must answer several questions:

• what function should the fence perform;
• what will be its height?
• it will be deaf or transparent;
• How will it open?
• whether additional materials will be used (brick, stone, etc.);
• what will the pillars be made of (metal, logs, bricks);
• what type of wood will be used for pillars and spans;
• whether the help of specialists is required;
• what costs can be expected.

After analyzing all the answers, you can choose one of the types (or combine them):

• Herringbone. Also, such a fence is called a ladder or an American. From afar, the surface resembles deaf siding. Upon closer inspection, you can see that there are gaps between the boards located at an angle. This kind of custom design will protect the site from roadside dust, but will let air flow through. Strong wind will not damage the fence.

• Classic variant - this is a vertical or horizontal tightly fitted canvas. It can be based on a brick or stone foundation, or only on wooden, metal, brick or stone pillars. Such a fence is suitable both for a private house or a cottage, and for a summer residence, that is, for those who want to leave their privacy as such.

• Wattle- the most emotional warm look fence. It was invented so long ago that now I can’t remember exactly when. It is still considered commonplace among the Slavic peoples. But recently it is often used as a decorative element for low fences. At the same time, blind high fences are made - wickerwork, which look amazing in combination with other materials.

• barrage ranch style has long ceased to be only American. Style is another matter. In the usual design, such a fence also serves to create a barrier for animals. But there are also beautiful options for fencing the adjacent territories.

You need to be prepared for the fact that this fence will not hide from prying eyes. Yes, and it fits small area fences, possibly a front garden.

• Lattice was once considered an unusual fence. Crossed at an angle of 45 degrees, the slats make the design very airy. Liana-like plants, grapes will perfectly curl along it. Over time, a transparent lattice can turn into a living opaque hedge. Such sections, interspersed with wickerwork or a blank fence, look even more unusual.

• Palisade appeared, perhaps, at the same time as the wattle fence, but it was used to protect the entire village. The strong and strong deaf protection will reliably protect from uninvited guests. Especially if the vertical stakes or logs have a pointed top edge. The durability of such a fence will give the foundation and brick (stone) pillars. But there is also an easier version of the picket fence - bamboo. It does not last as long, but it is much easier to mount it. Moreover, modern manufacturers offer a rolled ready-made fence.

• Fence- one of the most popular types. So much so that they now produce a metal picket fence. This is a universal fence of different heights and widths of pickets. They are easy and quick to attach to wooden veins. If wooden canvases are placed close to each other, then passers-by will be visible from the site, but from the street you can only see what is happening in the yard by stopping. For decorative design of such a fence use paint, varnish. It is made carved and multi-level, combined with other materials.

The picket fence without supporting pillars and crossbars looks completely unusual. Such a fence is also called a palisade, but still the essence is not in the name, but in the aesthetic and functional appeal. Recently, a horizontal picket fence is gaining popularity, as it is more economical and easy to install.

• checkerboard- a mixture of a picket fence, a palisade and a classic fence. In fact, this is a picket fence, but nailed in two rows (from the street and the yard) in such a way that there are no gaps between the boards and the fence becomes deaf. In this case, both sides are front. In order to protect personal space from sight and encroachment, they make it from wider shtaketins.

Color solutions

Once upon a time, wooden fences were not painted at all. And even now, a rustic picket fence, enclosing an ordinary garden “on the back”, is hardly exposed to paints and varnishes. Nevertheless, they always try to ennoble the fence in front of the house, the front garden.

Color solutions for this choose a variety. Starting from varnishing, so as not to deprive the tree of the pattern given by nature. This method can give larch the color of cedar, and pine - the color of walnut. For the same purpose, as well as for protection against insects, various stains and other impregnating substances are used. This option will bring the color of the fence closer to the color of the pillars, foundation, gate, house.

The wooden picket fence, the lattice and even the palisade are covered with multi-colored paints. Particularly interesting is the palisade in the form of colored pencils. Such a playground fence will protect from road dust, street trash and strong wind.

If the house was painted, then it is logical to cover the fence with paint, creating a single ensemble of the entire estate. To do this, you can use the templates of flowers, animals, floral ornaments. Sometimes two colors are used for this: for the background and for the template. Moreover, template drawings are most often painted in White color. In other cases, they draw real pictures on the facade of the house and the fence.

But still, often the tree is left with its appearance. After all, it is for naturalness, warmth and naturalness it is appreciated.

Decor

Except paintwork materials, there are many other ways to decorate wooden fences. Before dwelling on any decor option, you can look at 3D samples on the Internet to see the fence “live” from different angles and in different materials:

• Some types of fencing are fence decor in themselves. For example, a lattice or wickerwork, a checkerboard or a log palisade.
• Shtaketins, burned at the stake or with a burner, will not only get rid of insects and their larvae, but will also become a real designer find in the design of a Russian estate, a robber harbor or the kingdom of Berendey.
• The use of stone and brick will give solidity and durability to the entire structure. But it is also a wonderful decorating technique, as such fences look very beautiful.

• Metal is not only reliable protection the fence itself, but also a beautiful element of decor. Forged elements will give an aesthetically attractive appearance and reliability to a wooden canvas.
• The old fence can be updated and in a non-standard way. If it for a long time if they were not varnished, then it will be difficult to do this: it will absorb an incredible amount of paints and varnishes, but at the same time it will no longer have the proper appearance. You can hide this significant drawback by using invoices. decorative elements: flower pots, climbing vertical greenery, birdhouses, old waste materials in the form of flat toys, pictures, etc. The fence itself, of course, will not save it, but for some time it will postpone its dismantling and installation of a new fence.
• A photo grid will also help transform an old fence. This modern decorative material will help hide the flaws of any fence. You just need to choose the right material and pattern of the photo grid.

• Log saw cuts - very beautiful option decor. With it, you can turn a transparent fence into a deaf one, hide holes in the place of damaged pickets.
• Wattle can zone a place of rest in the country. If climbing plants or artificial sunflowers are woven into it, then such a place is stylized as a Ukrainian welcoming hut.

Design style

looking at the pictures various kinds fences, you can see that modern design gravitates towards minimalism and urban style. Whether it is worth applying this to a wooden fence is the decision of the owner. But, of course, it is worth paying attention to new trends:

• For example, a combination of wood and gabions with pergons. Metal cages 25-30 cm wide filled with stones and pebbles are pergons. Such cages can act as a support for a tree, a foundation, or a full-fledged section of a fence. Gabion - the same metal grid with a stone, but may have the shape of a larger parallelepiped than pergon. Or maybe, in general, be any other form. Figures - gabions can be sections of the fence or perform a decorative (and at the same time protective) function at the gate or gate.

• A modern palisade is not colored pencils made of slab at all, but a monumental structure made of timber, made in an urban style. The combination of granite and marble with this type of wood creates a feeling of power and strength.
• Perhaps the mixture of wood, metal and bottle glass can be attributed to eclecticism. This fence has a minimum of wood and a maximum of transparency. A vintage door reminds the owner of the time when this material was collected for their fence. Unusual way The combination of wood and glass made this fence exclusive.

• If you want to have a solid wooden fence, then you can think about combining wood with stone or brick. A rustic-style fence is naturalness, massiveness, and reliability. American country style is less rough, but no less robust. A solid fence using brick pillars will serve its owners for a long time.
• The combination of metal and wood will make the fence durable. Such a modern fence can only perform a protective function or be a real product.

Wood is such a comfortable material that it can be combined with any material. The main thing is to turn on the fantasy and choose the style of the future fence.

How to do it yourself?

The quality of the fence depends, among other things, on the type of tree. Pine due to the emitted resins is less exposed to climatic influences. And the Siberian larch - solid material capable of withstanding heavy loads. In addition, from contact with water, it improves its qualities.

Also use oak, aspen, ash, alder, mulberry. It is not recommended to make birch fences: it is short-lived and quickly cracks. There are also original tree species designed for a large pocket or a reliable bank card. To name just a few: abashi, akazhu, bangkirai, kasai, kekatong, merbau, tiger tree.

The next step after choosing the style and type of wood will be the calculation of the material. It is clear that for this need to accurately represent the project according to the drawing. But still, let's try to calculate the number of pickets for a deaf or translucent fence.

For this:

1. Measure the length of the future fence. For example, 50 m (5000 cm) when using boards 10 cm wide.
2. Calculate the amount of picket fence for a blind fence: 5000 cm / 10 cm = 500 boards.
3. Calculation for a translucent fence: the width of the gap between the boards is added to the width of the fence. For example: 10 cm (shtaketin) + 10 cm (gap) = 20 cm. Therefore, for such a fence you will need: 5000 cm / 20 cm = 250 boards.

If the price is indicated in the store per cubic meter, then in this case the thickness of one board is multiplied by the length and width. The result is multiplied by the number of boards. This will be the number of cubic meters.

For example, the thickness of the fence is 2 cm, length - 200 cm, width - 10 cm. It is necessary to convert the dimensions to meters: 0.02x2x0.10 \u003d 0.004. Multiply the result by the number of boards needed for the fence: 0.004x500 = 2 cubic meters a picket fence must be purchased for such a fence.

The number of boards in a cubic meter is counted in reverse order. At the same time, in all cases of calculation, it is necessary to provide a margin for an unforeseen event.

For crossbars and pillars, the material must be selected very carefully. If the fence is translucent, then the distance between the posts is 2 m. For a blind fence, a distance of 1.5 m is determined. The digging depth depends on the soil, usually 1-1.5 m.

As a rule, the fence has 2 crossbars. Therefore, the length of the fence must be multiplied by 2 plus up to 5 m of stock - this will be the need for crossbars for a picket fence.

All other installation options wooden fence so individual that they need to be calculated independently. Having decided on the total amount of all building material, you need to take care of the tools. Depending on the type of fence, this set will also be different. You will most likely need the following tools:

• saw, hacksaw;
• jigsaw;
• axe;
• shovel;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• level;
• rope, twine;
• earth drill;
• screwdriver;
• electric drill;

In addition, you will need building materials:

• picket fence, boards (it is better to soak them protective composition before installation)
• transverse bars, crossbars;
• supporting pillars;
• pegs for marking;
• sand, gravel;
• cement;
• galvanized fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws, hinges are also covered with drying oil before installation).

The whole sequence of work will consist of several stages:

• support installation;
• fastening crossbars (if the fence is vertical);
• frame sheathing.

Installation

There are 2 fundamentally different installation options: with and without foundation installation. The first option is more laborious, but more durable. The fence according to the second option is much faster and easier to do. Let's take a look at it:

• Territory preparation. Since the bottom edge of the boards will touch the ground, the area must be cleared of grass, stones and bumps.
• With the help of pointed wooden pegs 60 cm long, the territory is marked out according to a pre-drawn plan. The distance between the pegs is the distance between the future supports. The pegs are looped with a rope, which is pulled tight enough. At this point, you need to check how smoothly the markup is made.
• The pegs are taken out one at a time, and in their place, wells are drilled for supports with a depth of 50 cm (for a flower bed or a low picket fence) to 1.5 m (for a solid massive fence).
• The supports are driven into the ground. There are several installation methods: clogging, backfilling, concreting. But before using any, you need to take care of a wooden support, namely: treat it with a special compound, wrap it with roofing material, cement it into a metal cylinder. All this will save the post from rotting. Install supports with a plumb bob. Usually the bottom of the pit is sprinkled with sand and compacted tightly, then a post is installed, covered with gravel and compacted again. The sequence is repeated, with each layer of sand wetted with water.

• A nail is driven into the top of each post, after which all the nails are pulled together with a rope. In this way, the pillars are aligned.
• The veins are nailed to the supports. Mounting height may vary. Most often done as follows: the height of the fence is conventionally divided into 3 parts. The lower crossbar is nailed at a height of 1/3, the top - at a height of 2/3. It is important to choose the right nails: too short will not hold the crossbar, too large a diameter will lead to cracking of the wood.
• Fastening the picket fence in a deaf or translucent way. Top edge alignment. Giving it a decorative design with a saw and a jigsaw.
• Protection of support posts with caps (plastic, metal, wood, glass).
• Impregnation and painting. If the boards were installed without pre-treatment, then they should be impregnated with drying oil or a protective compound. You need to do this in 2 layers.

Then the fence is painted.

Paint should be chosen for outdoor work. Or, to preserve the naturalness of the wood, prefer varnish.

Fastening methods

If conventional fastening methods do not suit you, then you can find more interesting solutions:

• Instead of shtaketin use croaker. Such material will decorate the fence in a rustic antique style. A rounded log, on the contrary, looks very modern.
• You can bend the boards in such a way that you get an Austrian braid - a double-sided fence with minimal gaps.
• You can use planken. This is a kind of larch facade boards, in which all corners are beveled or rounded. Due to this, the boards are not fastened close to each other, but with a micro-distance. This method of fastening the planken does not allow the boards to swell from moisture and deform.

• Building wood siding. To do this, the boards are fixed horizontally, starting from the bottom, overlapping by about 25 mm.
• Creation of horizontal blinds. To do this, notches are made in the supports, into which the boards are inserted at a slight angle. This method will practically close the review, but will significantly save the amount of material. In addition, it is ideal for places with strong winds, as the fence will not be subject to wind loads.
• The fence can be mounted diagonally. The complexity of this method lies in the constant measurement of the angle at the beginning of the installation. But such a fence will look great, especially if its upper edge is left in the form of a palisade. With the diagonal method, the fence can also be deaf or translucent.

• You can use the checkerboard method, which has already been mentioned above. Such a fence can be vertical or horizontal. In this case, the length of the shtaketin can be the same or different (more difficult option, but also more interesting).

If thin untreated birch branches and trunks are passed very tightly through the crossbars, then such a wattle fence will be cheap, but it will protect no worse.

In addition, there are fastening methods when the boards are fastened between the support posts or hiding the posts. The first case will require more time and accuracy.

If the pillars are brick or stone, then other methods are used. Here it is possible sectional installation spans between poles. This work is done with an assistant. It is more time consuming, but the fence will last for a long time.

In order for a wooden fence to please with its appearance for a long time, you need:

• before installation, impregnate the wood with an antiseptic;
• check the absence of anthills at the site of the future fence;
• install a protective visor not only on the support poles, but also above the spans (if this does not fit into the chosen style, then you can try to secure the fence with a glass or polycarbonate visor);
• get rid of grass along the fence in a timely manner, this will reduce the level of humidity;
• after installation, cover the entire tree with a primer, this is done only in dry weather on dry wood;
• once every 2-3 years to carry out its painting.

It is good to protect the wooden fence from fungus and cracking with Swedish paint or yacht varnish.

Many people water the boards with hot drying oil before installation.

Since the untreated board loses moisture under the action of ultraviolet rays, it is the impregnation that neutralizes this drawback. Many use special UV hardeners, which are sold in hardware stores, as an impregnation. They process the boards several times with a primer so that the impregnation penetrates as deep as possible into the wood. After that, the tree is covered with paint or varnish.

Unlike drying oil and varnish, swedish paint- This homemade composition from:

• 250 g of copper sulfate;
• 250 g iron minium;
• 250 g table salt;
• 230 ml of drying oil or linseed oil;
• 570 g rye flour;
• 4.5 liters of water.

According to these proportions, you can prepare any amount of paint, but remember: the paint thickens very quickly, so you need to either cook in small portions or paint in several hands. Mixture consumption: 210-270 ml per square meter.

This recipe will give the wood golden color. To obtain a different color, red lead is replaced with ocher, hydrogen peroxide, or another color component.

Prepare the paint in this way:

• cook a paste from flour and 3 liters of water;
• to remove lumps, the substance is passed through a sieve;
• strained glue is again put on fire, adding salt and vitriol;
• you need to constantly stir the mixture, waiting for the vitriol to completely dissolve;
• while continuing to stir, gradually add drying oil, then water (a liquid composition of a homogeneous consistency should be obtained).

The paint is applied in two layers. Don't forget fasteners metal elements. They also need to be coated with special solutions from rust. Loose metal parts are reinforced with dowels.

But during operation, the fence may require not only preventive painting, but also repair. If preventive work against rye did not help, then the metal parts are simply changed. If we are talking about wooden elements, it is necessary to determine the degree of deterioration.

If the pillar-support is loosened, but not rotted, then it is carefully dug up about 20 cm deep and the same width. Aligning the support vertically, the pit is covered with broken bricks and poured with cement. For a few days they put props. The reason for such a game of support is the insufficient depth of the pit during installation and a violation of the installation technology.

If the post is rotten in its lower part, then the entire post or its lower part can be replaced. It's probably easier to replace the entire pole. But if this is not possible, proceed as follows: the pillar is dug out from the side and the rotten part is sawn off. A concrete support is prepared in advance instead of the rotten part. Holes for bolts are drilled in its upper part.

A concrete pile is installed in a pit, galvanized bolts are inserted into the holes. The entire structure is coated with an antiseptic. A wooden pole is put on the bolts, leveled along the slope and fixed with spacers. Crushed stone or broken brick is poured into the pit, and all this is tightly compacted. After a few days, the spacers are removed.

If the pickets have rotted or become unusable, then they need to be replaced. After dismantling, the repair site is treated with an antiseptic and dried, only after that a new board is installed.

The climate of any region of the world will affect wooden fences: somewhere there is too much precipitation, which causes the wood to rot; the hot sun dries it out and causes cracking. Dust storms peel off the paint.

All this warns the owners of wooden fences: only timely care will extend its service life.

Beautiful examples

Above, many examples were given of how, with the help of various types of wooden fence, you can decorate a summer cottage or a country house, a front garden or a flower bed. But beautiful examples so much that It is worth paying attention to at least a few more:

• To put up such a wonderful fence, you do not need a lot of money. Only a jigsaw sandpaper, a knife for carving and the desire of the master to make a real masterpiece out of a simple fence. And even though the fence seems shabby by time, only a true craftsman knows that a fairy tale lives behind it.

• The croaker is a substandard board, and therefore it costs quite a bit. The more valuable such a fence. After sanding and processing, the usual croaker turned not only into a place of rest, but also into a kind of entrance to another interesting and unusual world.

• Such a fence will require painstaking work. A board that, at first glance, does not seem to be edged, is unlikely to be. Careful jigsaw work grinder coupled with the work of a bricklayer makes this barrier an exclusive, worthy of the highest praise.

• A wooden fence combined with a stone-metal gabion makes you stop not only to consider this unusual sight, but also to think about deep philosophical topics. In our life, everything coexists in a strange way: warm tree with cold metal, soft board with hard stone.

• This fence, like the house on the site, is protected from all misfortunes for a long time: strong stone supports, stone foundation, Swedish paint on a checkerboard. A very caring owner took care not only of his property, but also of his own time. After all, such a fence will not need repair for a long time.

• But if the previous option is very expensive, then this one is very budgetary. Such a fence cannot be fully called wooden, rather, combined. And it is subject to every non-lazy owner. With a large number of inserted branches, you can achieve good protection for your site.

• The article mentioned a lot various options fence, but this one is special. So organically, softly, it looks on the site. At the same time, it perfectly zones the entire territory. Here you can drink tea with the company or hide from everyone and sit in silence. The unusual shape of the spiral makes the desire to get to the center even greater.

• To make such a horizontal non-standard checkerboard, you need to think completely outside the box. Different widths and lengths of boards, gaps where they, it would seem, should not be. Beautiful, unexpected, interesting.

• Even if you look very carefully, it is still difficult for a simple viewer to understand how this fence was made. It is convex, as if woven. The transverse beam seems to let the boards through itself. Moreover, the appearance of the burnt wood makes the fence completely unusual.

• And this combined fence again breaks stereotypes: a rounded habitual top and a completely unusual form of connection of two materials. Certainly beautiful. Also such interesting colors.

• The value of this fence is that it decorates not an elite cottage village on Rublyovka, but an ordinary rural street. And if the owners of this non-standard house and Austrian braids created such beauty in an ordinary village, which means that peasants have not yet died out on Russian land.

Fences made of wood are considered the most short-lived. After all, not everyone knows (or does not want to know) the secrets of wood and its processing.

An untreated pine fence will indeed last no more than 10 years, and then, provided reliable waterproofing the bottom of the pole. If you are making a temporary fence for the period of construction and improvement, then this is a completely justified decision.

Another thing is when wood is chosen as a building material not because of its cheapness, but because of the possibilities of design. After all, wood is considered the most malleable material for decorative processing.

This is what the fence looks like from the first photo from the side of the yard. Agree, no less attractive ...

Pay attention to the contour of the boards: how much "attention" was paid to each of them, how carefully the edges are worked out and the corners are smoothed ... The photo shows sliding gates all the same yard.

How many exist design techniques: firing, toning, aging effect, combination with forged overlays, finally, just perfect sanding and coating with yacht varnish.

Design options for wooden fences are given at the end of the article.

Having invested labor (or cash) in creating a masterpiece of wooden architecture, I want to admire it as long as possible. Therefore, there are a number important points, which should be known to the owner of the estate.

LONGEVITY Pledge

Choose for the fence those wood species that are distinguished by high density: Siberian larch, oak, mulberry, acacia, aspen, alder, ash. By the way, a Siberian larch fence can be called eternal - from contact with water, the wood of this tree, on the contrary, grows stronger.

Limit the use of pine to the creation of a fence board - in case of rapid wear, it is not difficult to replace it. In no case do not put a birch fence - it has the most unstable wood.

support poles for a wooden fence can be wooden, metal or made of masonry.

The last two options will serve as a reliable support for long years. But do not write off the tree. It doesn't have to be buried in the ground.

To extend the service life, you can use special metal consoles (supports), which are concreted, and then a wooden beam is attached to them (see link on the side).

The most vulnerable part sawn wood - one where the cut is made across the grain. To extend the life of a wooden fence will help the horizontal arrangement of boards or a protective visor over those standing vertically.

Wood is vulnerable when it comes into direct contact with air: when wet, it swells and is affected by fungus; too dry contributes to its cracking. You can reduce the risks due to mandatory treatment: impregnation with an antiseptic plus painting with special dyes (Swedish paint, yacht varnish, impregnation with hot drying oil).

SWEDISH PAINT

• iron (copper) vitriol - 260 g,
• iron minium - 260 g,
• table salt - 260 g,
• rye flour - 580 g,
• drying oil or linseed oil- 240 ml,
• water - about 4.5 liters.

The consumption of the composition is approximately 200-300 ml/m 2 . Color - golden. If you need a different shade, then red lead can be replaced with ocher or manganese peroxide.

The coloring composition is prepared as follows: the flour is mixed with 3 liters of water and the paste is boiled, passed through a sieve to avoid lumps, put on fire again and added inkstone and salt, stirring constantly until the vitriol is completely dissolved, continuing to stir, pour in small portions first oil (linseed oil) then water (until a liquid homogeneous consistency is obtained).

Apply the paint immediately, because it thickens quickly. Therefore, it is better to work with two or three people, or divide the composition into smaller portions and cook it as it is spent.

WOODEN FENCE FRAME

The step of the supporting pillars is 2-3 m.

As supports, choose a round or square bar with a section of 100x100 mm or metal pipe section 40x40, 40x60, 60x60 mm (with a wall thickness of 2 mm), for gates 80x80 and 100x100 mm (with a wall thickness of 3 mm). The wider the pitch of the supports and the greater the load (weight and wind), the greater the size and thickness of the walls.

So for a fence-blinds with a two-meter section, the minimum parameters are selected from the above, for a solid one, and even with forged overlays - the maximum.

If there is no choice of lumber (wood species), then the budget pine is carefully treated with protective chemistry, and the posts must be installed on a concrete base.

For horizontal crossbars, a bar with a section of 30 (enough) x 50 (and wider) mm is used.

For mounting wooden crossbars on a metal pole, "ears" with holes for fasteners are welded to it. To avoid welding work during installation, you can purchase ready-made posts with fasteners.

A board 25 mm thick goes to the skin (shield). The width varies depending on the design.

All the rest technological sequence, depth and method of laying, up to chemical processing frame, the same as for a corrugated fence:

• frame is mounted
• color,
• after stuffing the shield.

METHOD OF FASTENING THE FRAME AND BOARDS

The most durable will be the connection with self-tapping screws. Choose self-tapping screws, taking into account such a requirement: the body of a wooden pole (crossbar) should include 30-40 mm of thread.

Each board is fixed with at least two screws on each edge.

There are options for a non-standard approach to fastening boards. Here is an example of a fence assembled according to the wattle principle. The curved board, trying to straighten itself, is pressed tightly against the support. Although, given the pliability of wood in a humid environment, additional fixation of each board will still have to be done.

For the fence in the photo above, we used the method of sheathing with wooden siding. Start fastening the boards from the bottom up with an overlap of 2.5 cm.

An interesting novelty is a woodenFENCE-SHUTTER.

If the boards are made with a downward slope towards the street, then an invisible fence will be obtained that will not experience strong wind loads. There are several ways to fix the boards at an angle.

In the photo on the right, wooden lamellas are nailed to a gear rack, which, in turn, is fixed to a support post.

Another way- nail the boards from the end. Here it is important to clearly mark the wooden rack. This option is relevant for a fence with metal supports. When all sections are filled along the front and back, a board is nailed that will cover the entire "kitchen". A wooden plug must be put on top of the pole.

Are you interested in the question of how to mount the next section if the neighboring section restricts access to it? It is simply slightly pushed out first towards the street, after - the site (or vice versa) in order to fix the lamella. Fastening to a metal support is carried out after the installation of adjacent sections.

Third option for support from wooden beam. In it, oblique cut-grooves are made, into which the end of the lamellas is inserted. Each must be screwed with a self-tapping screw, and then a wooden lining is made from the front part, which will hide the attachment points.

In the end, the wooden blinds fence will look like this. Don't forget to nail the end caps to the top of the post.

Simple horizontal fastening of boards looks boring. But if you make small (up to 1.5 cm) gaps between them, then the canvas of the section will acquire a more modern sound. How at the same board (within reason), the more interesting and modern the finished fence looks.

It’s also nice to alternate boards of different widths - the main thing is that adjacent sections repeat the pattern.

Shouldn't be overlooked unedged board. In addition to being cheaper, it also looks more exclusive. The truth is not suitable for all styles of site design. It will look win-win in the forest.

Here is another option for a brutal style wooden fence.

You will need a jigsaw, a wood carving knife, sanding paper and skillful hands in order to complete this original fence with the effect of a worn board.

Have you ever collected puzzles? So, to create these fence sections (pictured above), you first need to draw and carve them from the boards. Each plank of this fence has its own clear size and bend, that is, first they create a template, then they cut it out, chamfer it, grind it, and treat it with protective chemistry. And only after they are knocked down into the section. And how the elements are fixed to each other is the secret of the master ...

For the slab fence in the photo above, the entire wane was carefully selected, because it is unacceptable for some sections of the boards to be too thin in thickness. The bark was removed, each plank was given piquant contours with a jigsaw, the surface was polished. In general, the cheap price of the material is covered by painstaking work.

I recommend copying this design exactly in relation to the original, or first create a project (span diagram) of the entire fence, choosing an alternation of drawings. And only after making sure that the whole canvas of the fence looks harmonious, proceed to implementation.

Do not get carried away with such a bright texture for all the wooden elements of the yard. Exclusive only wins when it is unique.

If you walk through a modern Russian village and pay attention to the fences, you can draw some conclusions. In the case when the houses have been standing for a long time, several decades, they are surrounded by an old wooden picket fence, and if the house is new, there is a profiled sheet fence. More and more rural residents prefer this material. But a wooden fence is beautiful, aesthetic, environmentally friendly, easy to install and repair, does not heat up, it exudes warmth and reliability. If you treat the tree with a protective compound, the service life increases by tens of years. Yes, and you can decorate it in different ways. You will learn how to make a wooden fence with your own hands by reading this article.

INSTALLATION OF POSTS FOR A WOODEN FENCE WITH YOUR HANDS

We start the device of a wooden fence with. We bought a metal square profile 6 meters long on the market,with a wall width of 6 cm,and grinder cut it into pieces 2 m 40 cm. Iron covers were welded on top so that natural precipitation did not get inside, and painted with gray paint. The part that will be in the ground, 90 cm, treated with bituminous mastic.

In the place where we will put the supports, we will stretch and fasten the lace so that they stand on the same line.

Take a garden drill with an auger diameter of 13 cmand drill to a depth of 90 cm.

In order not to often take out the drill and measure the depth, we stick a piece of white electrical tape on the auger at a distance of 90 cmfrom the earth. To waterproof and protect the metal from moisture, cut off a piece of roofing material, roll it into a tube and lower it into the pit. If hedgehogs live in the area around your site, before throwing a pole into a hole, check if a prickly friend has fallen into it. We had just that. It's good that we looked down before installing.

In general, having taken out the hedgehog and sent it to the forest, we will lower the pole into the pit. Align it vertically with a level and fill it with gravel, ramming it well with a heavy crowbar.

Concreting the pole does not make sense. Before winter, we installed several pieces for a wooden fence with our own hands, half concreted, half not. In the spring, we did not notice any difference between the strength of the installation of the pillars, so we refused to continue pouring concrete.

So that the posts for a wooden fence with their own hands stand at the same height of 150 cm, let's use , a device consisting of two flasks into which water is poured, connected by a hose.

To do this, we attach one flask to the first pillar, lean the other flask against the second, and, raising or lowering the pillar in the pit, equalize the liquid levels in both flasks. We fix the second support and also fill it with large gravel. In the same way, we will install all the posts for a wooden fence with our own hands.

For the veins, we used a metal profile measuring 2 by 4 cm, its desired length and painting. We will attach them to the poles with bolts and nuts. Drill holes in the log and pole, insert the bolt, tighten with a nut.

The horizontality of the lag is constantly checked by the level. Pillars for installing boards are ready.

PREPARATION OF BOARDS FOR A WOODEN FENCE WITH YOUR HANDS

We will build a fence not from a picket fence, but from cleaves 10 cm wide, 2 cm thick. Such material seemed to us more beautiful and interesting. At the nearest sawmill, we ordered pine boards, asking them to be planed on both sides. In order to have less waste, the length of the tesin should be taken 6 meters.

From scraps then you can makewoodenstand for flowers , or .

The height of the fence will be 1 m 80 cm, which is enough to hide from prying eyes.

Having marked the board into segments, we cut it with an electric jigsaw. Since the planed board is only on two sides, we will process the edges with an electric planer, placing the board on the edge.

To spend less paint, we will correct all the roughness with a grinder with a grinding nozzle, as we did with .

To process the fence board with your own hands from rotting and mold, apply an antiseptic to it with a brush for enhanced wood protection. After it dries, paint the gaps with pear-colored Aquatex, as that we once did.

After the paint dries, proceed to the fence device.

WOODEN FENCE OWN HANDS

We will fasten the boards to the logs with self-tapping screws, with a drill at the end, 41 mm long.

We use 2 pieces for each board. We will tighten them with a screwdriver. If the self-tapping screw does not drill well into the metal log, you can first make a hole in it with a drill with a drill with a diameter of 3 mmand then tighten the screw.

Let's start fixing the board from the edge of the wooden one with our own hands. Then we again take the hydraulic level and attach the second board to the logs at some distance from the first, leveling it in height with this device. We will do this along the entire length of the fence.

Wooden fences have turned into rare fences, even ordinary ones. country house. Meanwhile, it is easy to make it yourself.

The craze for profiled sheet fences has a practical explanation: available material, fast construction, long service life, low price. As a modern material, profiled sheet broke into the construction market and significantly pressed the traditional tree.

Today it is undeservedly forgotten. But this is - natural material, beautiful, light, durable, from which you can make a unique fence of its kind. It is enough to apply little effort- and a wooden fence will decorate your site, enable plants to develop in natural conditions, and not “burn out” in the heat near metal fences.

So, the advantages of a wooden fence:

• The beauty of natural wood
• Ease
• Durability
• Environmental friendliness.

Types of wooden fence

Fans do not stop at the traditional version of a vertical picket fence on wooden poles. This method, although it has the right to life, is being replaced by more modern and beautiful designs. Consider a few of them, let's go from simple to complex:

1. Narrow picket fence on wooden poles. The classic, simplest and cheapest option for house fencing. The construction involves timber for poles (15 by 15 centimeters), timber for veins (4 by 4 centimeters), gravel for filling holes, slats, screws or nails. The classic design can be given originality by changing the gap between the picket fence rails, its height, and coloring to imitate fine wood.
2. Wide figured picket fence on a metal frame. More reliable option, prolonging the service of the fence.
3. Horizontally installed planed board on metal or brick supports. It involves the creation of deaf fences. The fence can be made in the style of "lattice", "herringbone", "cross", "ladder". A new trend in the construction of wooden fences.
4. Wooden wicker from a planed board, located vertically or horizontally.
5. Fences in the style of "ranch" are used to protect huge personal plots located in the countryside. Practical and cheap.

Construction stages

The beauty and durability of the fence depends on the quality of the wood. You can buy a ready-made picket fence, but there is a danger of “running into” raw material. Your work on making a fence from such a picket fence will go down the drain: it will “lead” in the first year of operation. We advise you to order a picket fence from a planed board. Process it according to all the rules and get a wonderful result.

Making a fence frame

To make a frame in wood, you will need minimum effort. The pillars are buried at least 40 - 50 centimeters, a gravel cushion is arranged, on which the pillars are vertically installed, their lower part is treated with bitumen and covered with roofing material. With the help of bolts or self-tapping screws, two parallel horizontal veins are installed, to which the picket fence will subsequently be attached.

A more durable frame is made of profiled pipes of square or rectangular section. The supports are buried in the ground by one and a half meters, concreted. Horizontal rails are welded to the posts. The metal is cleaned of scale and painted.

And, finally, the most complex and reliable option for creating a frame for a wooden fence is with a monolithic foundation and a plinth on metal or brick supports. A trench is being prepared for a monolithic foundation, formwork. After the foundation has hardened, a plinth is removed from facing bricks or natural stone that go well with wood.

Preparing wooden fencing elements

We agreed that it will be a material planed on both sides, so it will not be difficult to treat it with antiseptic impregnation without pre-training surfaces. After the rails have dried, apply a primer.

The last stage is the coloring of the tree with pigmented impregnations, glazing compounds or covering. The end part of the fence should be well cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper and also carefully processed. A zealous owner applies paint in several layers in order to protect the tree as best as possible, and save himself from painting work for the next 8-10 years.

As a varnish coating, stains can be used various colors. You can burn wood with a special lamp.

Attention! Processing and painting of a wooden picket fence should be carried out before its installation. If you install raw fence elements and then start painting them, the end pieces will be hard to reach and poorly finished.

Fencing installation

Classic pattern - vertical installation fence rails with a gap equal to the width of the picket fence. Installation can be done in two ways. In the first case, you attach each rail to the veins using a level. In the second, you pre-assemble the section on a horizontal surface, and then connect it with whole blocks to the support.

Features of mounting a fence in the style of "cross", "herringbone" and "ladder" - in the presence of special vertical pads on the pillars, where grooves are made for horizontal fastening of narrow planed boards. Linings can be made of wood or metal profile.

A variation of a vertically installed picket fence is the “chess” style - the picket fence is attached alternately from the front and back sides. For this, the same linings are used as when installing the "ladder" fence. With the help of a "checkerboard" you can create a blank canvas or make small gaps between the planks. The effect is amazing: at a certain angle, the fence seems deaf, but it is worth looking at the fence from the side, and the beauty of your site will be revealed to the passer-by.

The “ranch” style is an analogue of the Russian “corral”, it is very simple and cheap in execution: wide boards (poles) are horizontally attached to massive pillars. Large areas should be fenced with such a fence.

The wooden wattle fence is made in the style folk traditions, only instead of a flexible vine, narrow wooden planks. The length of the board should correspond to the distance between the posts. Such a fence has the same wrong side and front side. Can be used as a support for climbing plants.

When making a wooden fence with your own hands, pay attention to important details to help make your dream come true:

1. For structural strength, install vertical poles into the ground on special shoes to increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport - no "sail" of the fence will be terrible!
2. The distance between the posts should not exceed three meters. Experts consider optimal - 2.5 meters between the supports.
3. When installing the picket fence, do not rely on your "sharp eye" - work with the level, constantly checking the accuracy in all planes
4. As soon as you have purchased wood, immediately treat it against pests. The grinder beetle can start up there for a very a short time- it will no longer be possible to improve the structure of the tree with the help of antiseptics.
5. Pay special attention to protecting the wooden fence from the sun and precipitation. Take care of the choice of paint and impregnation in advance.
6. You can paint only dry wood (moisture content not more than 12 percent).
7. We do not recommend using oil paints and enamels for painting a wooden fence. They tend to crack and crumble under the influence of adverse factors.
8. As hardware, use fasteners made of galvanized metal, which is not susceptible to rust.
9. When attaching the fence, make sure that the screws enter the tree strictly perpendicularly, without damaging the tree.

Follow these simple advice, and you can independently build a beautiful and durable wooden fence on your site.

Features of installing a wooden fence for a summer residence with your own hands

A strong fence around the house is an important necessity. A high fence not only protects property, but creates a sense of psychological comfort.

Wooden fences have always been considered the ideal fencing option. They are made of pure ecological materials and are quite simple in self-construction. Properly built and well maintained wooden fences can last up to four decades.

What are wooden fences

All products of this type can be divided into two large groups:

Considering wooden fences by design, the following options are available:

What kind of wood to make a fence

Experts advise using coniferous trees. It may larch or spruce, cedar, pine. It should be borne in mind that pine is not very durable. In principle, any type of wood is suitable for a wooden fence, the main thing is that it be of high quality. If you want to save money, then you can safely take spruce or pine. Before use, the wood must be well treated with an antiseptic with olive.

Preparing tools for mounting

We will need:

Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of a wooden fence

Stage #1

Wooden pegs are taken about 60 cm in length. Everyone needs to be sharpened. Then a site plan is taken, and the pegs are hammered around the entire perimeter of the territory.

The distance between them should be in the region of two meters from each other.

Then the pegs must be looped with lacing. It needs to be well stretched.

Stage #2

It is necessary to determine the required height of the fence. It is important that it is not too high (because it can obscure the planting) or too low (so as not to put the site on display). Optimal the average height is considered to be 1.5-2.5 meters.

The boards are cut to the designated length. They will need to be processed on a grinding machine and made into a semicircular or triangular profile. If you need to save time, you can buy ready-made boards.

Stage 3

There comes a moment when the pegs are removed one at a time, and in their place a well is drilled with a depth of about 50-80 cm under the supports for the future fence. To make the work go faster, it is better to do it using a drill. If there is no access to the drill, then the holes can be made with an ordinary shovel.

Stage 4

Pre-prepared supports can now be dug into the ground. Bars can be with a section of 50 * 50 mm or 75 * 75 mm. It is necessary to install the bars strictly vertically, for great accuracy it is recommended to use a plumb line. The wells are covered with earth and compacted tightly. To consolidate the results of the work and make the fence durable, supports must be cemented.

Stage number 5

On top of each beam, a nail is hammered, and they are pulled together along the perimeter with a tightly stretched lacing. This must be done in order to level the fence.

Stage #6

The veins (section 10 * 2.5 cm) are attached to the beams with nails. They must be placed on the same distance from each other. This is done at a height of about 20-30 cm above the soil level. The nails must be of the right size to penetrate the veins and protrude reverse side by a few centimeters. The protruding parts of the nails must be carefully bent.

Stage number 7

Boards prepared for the fence are nailed to the nails. If you want to make a deaf fence, then the boards are nailed end-to-end. You can also leave a small distance between them from one to five centimeters.

Wood fence painting and finishing

The stages of installation of a wooden fence are completed, but there is still a lot of work ahead. It is necessary to protect the wooden fence from bad weather and insects. For this, special measures are taken, in particular - processing and painting.

As protective material experts recommend using ordinary drying oil. This tool is common and available at its cost. If finances allow, then the hardware stores offer many options for stronger and more expensive tree protection.

After the applied protective layer dries, you can start painting.

For this, special paints for wood are selected, which are presented in a wide range on modern construction markets. This combination: drying oil and special paint will protect the fence from the sun and moisture.

It is important! Painting a wooden fence should be repeated once every two, maximum three years.

Wooden fences have many advantages - environmental friendliness of the material and beautiful appearance, reliable protection and long service life. In order for a tree to fully reveal these qualities, it is necessary to properly mount the fence and, without fail, protect the wood with drying oil and paint.

How to extend the life of a wooden fence

For additional protection from rain and snow, many professionals recommend installing a special visor on the top of the fence. To do this, you will need to install special additional strips on which the visor can be attached.

Installing such a visor is a painstaking and time-consuming task, but the product can protect the tree from moisture as much as possible, and the appearance of the fence will become more original and individual.

To protect the bottom of the fence, you must constantly:

• Remove excess grass. A lot of vegetation near the fence leads to high humidity. This can cause early rotting of the tree.
• After removing excess grass, a thin layer of gravel is poured along the fence. This will allow excess moisture not to accumulate in this place.

How Extend the life of your wood fence still under construction:

• Make sure that there are no anthills and large thickets in the installation site.
• Impregnate the wood with special antiseptics even before the start of construction.
• Upon completion of installation, coat the entire structure with a primer. This will strengthen the fence and provide excellent protection against adverse weather conditions. You can make a primer only in warm weather, when the tree is completely dry.
• An additional primer is done using paint, which includes natural oils. This doubles the strength of the material. A layer of oil paint should dry for about 24 hours before applying a second one. Then the material will be well impregnated.

When materials are prepared, there are tools as well free time, the construction of a wooden fence with your own hands is a matter that even a beginner in construction can do. But it is important not only to install the fence correctly, but also to provide it with constant care and protection. Then the wooden fence will last up to forty-five years.

Step-by-step video instructions for building a wooden fence

On the video - independent construction wooden fence:

Photo gallery of various wooden fences

The photo shows examples of the implementation of various decorative and unusual wooden fences installed on suburban area. Some of the ideas can help you choose your own solutions.