Do-it-yourself tin pipe. How to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands? Galvanized and polymer coated: what are the differences
From ancient times, from the time when people learned how to mine and process metal, such a profession was born - a tinsmith. The profession is creative, almost magical. Masters - tinsmiths create such unique and beautiful things from tin that you wonder: is it really a creation of human hands! .. They are so charming.
With a detailed analysis of tin products, we can conclude that all this beauty consists of elements that anyone can easily make with a little effort and patience - fortunately, you can easily find tutorials on working with tin on the Internet. The device and drawings of primitive machines and fixtures are described in an accessible form both on the pages of old textbooks, and there is plenty of information of this kind on the net.
At first glance, the idea may seem ridiculous and even delusional, but it is not. In fact, it is possible to make equipment, mandrels and devices for working with tin from improvised means, with my own hands, with minimal material costs. Drawings and diagrams of equipment are located in the sources that were mentioned earlier.
Let us analyze in detail what exactly is required to open the workshop.
Room. An ordinary garage or a small hangar is suitable for work, since the machines used will be completely mechanical, the presence of electricity is not necessary. Such a room can be rented, and it is not very expensive.
Now machines and equipment. To produce the first, simplest products that will bring the first income to the enterprise, you need only one machine - a bender. For its manufacture, three corners 75 mm wide and 2 m long and two hinges are required - all this is welded into a single structure (I described earlier where to look for the manufacturing scheme). Homemade machine many times cheaper than the factory one, and in terms of the quality of the products made on it, they are not nearly inferior to the branded ones.
Fixtures and fixtures. For a beginner tinsmith, the following materials are suitable as fixtures: a pipe with a diameter of 76 mm - 89 mm, about 2 m long; channel width 80 mm - 100 mm, also 2 m long; pipe or round timber with a diameter of 50 mm, 2 meters long. Perhaps that's all.
Let's take a look at the tools: straight scissors 1 pc., curly scissors 1 pc., tape measure 5 m 1 pc., vernier caliper 250 mm long, ruler 1 m 1 pc., ruler 500 mm 1 pc., ordinary carpenter's hammer weighing 250 gr. 1 pc., mallet 1 pc., scriber and pencil. Such a set is quite enough for initial earnings.
Desktop - everything is simple here, it is made from improvised means, it is quite suitable wooden table, if there is no metal, the main thing is that the approximate dimensions are maintained height 0.85 m length 2 m width 1.5 m. It will not take up much space, and it will be quite comfortable to create at such a workplace.
If we calculate the costs of all of the above, then the amount will be more than modest, despite the fact that we are talking about creating a private enterprise. To this should be added the cost of advertising and, nevertheless, the costs will not increase by much.
At present, a small business assistance program has been launched, when applying with this project to the employment center, there is a high probability of receiving a subsidy in the amount of 58,800 rubles for the development of one's own business.
Prospects - 1) minimal capital investment, no need to purchase expensive equipment; 2) the simplest products (skate, ebbs, scoops, shovels) can be made from the first day of work, which means that the payback of the idea will begin from the first day; 3) waste-free production, all trimmings, subsequently, are scrapped, which increases the profitability of the workshop; 4) high profitability and short time return on investment.
These aspects make the project of creating a workshop for working with tinplate highly promising. For people taking their first steps in starting a small business, this idea will be simply unique.
Good day, dear guest!
The first galvanized sheet rolled off the assembly line of one of the British factories back in 1867. True, at that time the metal was covered exclusively with gold and silver. But before the First World War, the production of parts with a protective layer of zinc was put on stream, and since then they have been incredibly popular.
This is not surprising - zinc prolongs the life of iron by 20-30 times. Products made of galvanized steel are durable, do not give in to rust, and behave in everyday life no worse than stainless steel, although they are much cheaper.
In today's article, I propose to pay more attention to this modest material and tell you how to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands.
Advantages and disadvantages of such a pipe
Galvanization is primarily steel, a material that has many undeniable advantages.
These include:
- Strength,
- Ability to withstand high temperatures
- Excellent thermal conductivity,
- Low cost compared to other materials.
But without protective coating ferrous metal is subject to corrosion, quickly rusts and becomes unusable. Galvanizing successfully solved this problem. And, despite the fact that galvanized and steel pipes are the same in shape, a galvanized product has a number of advantages.
Additional advantages of a galvanized product:
- Corrosion resistance, ability to resist negative impacts environment,
- Extended service life
- increased strength,
- Wide operating temperature range,
- High resistance to mechanical stress,
- Galvanized pipe withstands high internal and external pressure,
- Ease and convenience of installation,
- High fire resistance
- Zinc kills all pathogenic microorganisms,
- Galvanization is practically not inferior in quality to low-alloyed stainless steel, but it costs an order of magnitude cheaper.
But, like any engineering solution, a galvanized iron pipeline is not ideal.
- Not very attractive design
- Expensive compared to conventional steel,
- Zinc complicates the welding process,
- Unlike plastic, in the presence of protrusions on the walls, it is almost impossible to ensure a smooth transition to structures made of galvanized pipes.
Do it yourself or order
What is better, buy a galvanized sheet desired thickness and bend the pipe yourself, or go to the store and buy a finished product?
As usual, let's start with the price. A finished pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 3 meters will cost you and me about 500 rubles. Cost of material in this case- 150 rubles, the rest - labor costs and the seller's margin.
And if you plan to organize an entire drainage system? You can see for yourself that you will have to overpay for finished products by 2.5-3 times. Making pipes yourself will greatly ease the financial burden.
In addition, factory products have strictly defined dimensions, and sometimes it is difficult to choose the right one for your system. And the thickness of the finished pipe usually does not exceed 1mm.
Be sure to remember - any factory product, unlike a home-made one, undergoes strict quality control, has a perfectly round surface and the accuracy of the weld.
Can House master Ensuring compliance with all these conditions is far from a fact.
What material to choose
If it was decided to make the part on our own, you should start with the choice of material, in our case, a galvanized sheet of the required thickness.
Material characteristics
Sheet steel coated with zinc at the factory must comply with GOST 14918-80. The main characteristics that you should pay attention to when choosing:
The most common galvanized thicknesses are from 0.35 to 3mm. The thinner the sheet, the easier it is to process, which is important for the manufacture of products at home. But do not forget - less thickness - less strength.
- Thickness of zinc coating
There are 3 classes of material, according to the thickness of the zinc coating layer. We summarize the data in a table for convenience.
How to make the perfect galvanized pipe with your own hands: step by step instructions
Advantages and disadvantages of galvanized pipes, material characteristics. Step-by-step instruction, which will help you make a galvanized pipe with your own hands, size calculation, drawing and diagram.
With the use of new technologies in construction, the need to use tin pipes is gradually disappearing, but the question of how to make a pipe from tin is of interest to people who like to do everything in the house with their own hands.
What tin to choose?
How to make a pipe out of tin? What tin is best for this job?
Thin tin is an excellent material for homemade baths and smokehouses. Tin is thin sheet steel that is subject to corrosion. For the manufacture of beautiful downpipes, as well as weathercocks, visors over chimney pipes, covers over chimneys do-it-yourself or original filigree lace, galvanized iron roofing is used.
Tip: pipes made of tin can also be used as samovar pipes, they increase traction well and also remove smoke.
What tools are needed?
Before you start making a tin pipe with your own hands, you need to take care of the tools and materials that you will need.
Making tin pipes with your own hands involves the use of the following:
- a sheet of roofing thin galvanized iron (thickness 0.5-0.7 mm),
- metal cutting scissors,
- metal bar,
- wooden mallet (mallet),
- simple hammer,
- pliers.
Metal cutting scissors
Tip: in order for the tin pipe to turn out beautiful and even, it is necessary to take a sheet of iron with a smooth and even surface, and also so that the corners are straight, and not torn off or unevenly cut.
Instructions for making a tin pipe
How to make a pipe out of tin? Where to begin?
- The manufacture of tin pipes begins with drawing up a drawing. Draw on an iron sheet a pattern of the future pipe in expanded form.
Tip: the pipe pattern can be drawn with chalk or any sharp object.
- When marking a pattern, the following points must be considered:
- the width of the workpiece should be equal to the diameter of the pipe plus an additional one and a half centimeters,
- workpiece length - a little longer straight section pipes.
Scheme of the workpiece for the pipe seam
- Cut off the drawn pipe blank with metal scissors.
- Put the workpiece on the edge of the workbench.
- Draw a fold line along the length of the iron sheet on one side, it should be half a centimeter.
- Combine the line that is drawn with the edge of the corner on the layout.
- Using a mallet, bend down the edge of the sheet of iron.
- Turn the sheet over and with light blows of the mallet bend the edge to the sheet.
- Turn the workpiece over and, on the other hand, bend the edge 1 centimeter wide, but in the other direction.
- Bend the edge again, so that in profile this bend will look like the letter G.
- Insert the workpiece into the mandrel, carefully bend the edges of the pipe to each other.
Tip: you can use a mandrel - this is a sector or pipe template of the required diameter, but you can do without it.
- Join the edges into a lock so that the smaller edge catches on the larger edge.
- Seal the edge with pliers.
- Using a hammer and an iron bar, lay the edge on the sheet and knock it out well.
Bend of a fold on a pipe
The edges of the tin pipe can also be fastened with steel, aluminum or tin rivets.
- Drill holes for the rivets at a distance of three centimeters.
- Bend the edge at a right angle towards each other.
- Bend sheet of tin blank into reverse side so that the edges and are located on the outside of the pipe.
- fasten the edges with rivets.
Tip: a do-it-yourself tin pipe fastened in this way is not very convenient to use. The result is a not very attractive external seam, which has to be hidden when installing the pipe.
Features of working with tin
- To give the sheet tin material the desired shape of the pipe, you need to bend it with tongs or a hammer around an object of the appropriate cylindrical shape.
Do-it-yourself tin pipes can be made using a metal or wooden cylinder.
Tip: the fold of the tin should be even along the entire length, this can be achieved by lightly tapping the hammer, while the blows should be as close to each other as possible.
- The manufacture of tin pipes is impossible without the use of metal shears. It will be much easier to work with such a tool if you attach a leather loop to its handle.
The metal is cut with one hand, putting a leather loop on the fingers. - The edge of a sheet of iron after cutting with scissors can be cleaned with a plow made from a small old piece of a hacksaw blade.
- A downpipe made of tin, which is already ready for installation, in some cases needs to be cut (for example, when it is necessary to make a figured edge of the drain pipe).
To do this, it will be convenient to cut the pipe with a knife, which is intended for opening canned food.
Gutter tin pipe
Tip: in order for the pipe to be cut well with a knife, first you need to file it with a hacksaw, and only then use a knife.
Tin pipe cutting process
- When working with tin, sometimes you have to use a file. Very often it is clogged with metal filings and quickly fails.
In order to clean it, you can use a copper spatula or a soft metal tube, while flattening its end.
It is not very difficult to make tin pipes with your own hands, the main thing is to follow these recommendations and be extremely careful, as you can get hurt by the cut off sharp edges of the tin sheet.
How to make a pipe from tin: instructions
229) How to make a pipe out of tin: making tin products with your own hands.
You can buy galvanized pipes freely, but the cost of such products can be quite high, so the desire to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands is dictated, first of all, by considerations of economy.
At the same time, the manufacture of galvanized pipes does not require the use of special efforts, special expensive fixtures and tools and some kind of professional knowledge, so any home craftsman who has a set of standard carpentry tools in his arsenal can handle this.
Characteristics of galvanized pipes
Galvanized metal pipes are used for chimney equipment, they are popular because of light weight and, consequently, ease of installation. Galvanized chimneys do not require the construction of a foundation, and this significantly reduces the cost of chimney equipment.
These pipes meet the standards fire safety, withstanding temperature regime up to 900°, so they can even be used for smoke extraction from solid fuel heating boilers and stoves.
Also galvanized pipes home construction used for plumbing equipment. Such pipes are already quite affordable in terms of costs, but at the same time, the process can be made even cheaper using hand-made products.
What you need to make a galvanized pipe
At home, to make a galvanized pipe, you need a sheet of tin, the material does not require much effort due to its softness and plasticity.
tin industrial way are made from thin sheet steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm on rolling machines, after which they are coated with an anti-corrosion protective layer of chromium, tin or zinc. Finally, the workpieces are cut standard sizes, width from 512 mm to 2000 mm.
The strength of such products is in no way inferior to steel counterparts, especially if the material has additional stiffeners, but at the same time it is very plastic and allows you to mount pipelines of complex shape manually. Anti-corrosion coating provides protection of the pipe from environmental influences.
The problem of such pipes is insufficient bending strength, therefore, for the manufacture of open parts, stiffeners are introduced into the design to strengthen the product.
- a wide range of such pipes is presented in stores different size: single-circuit,
- double-circuit (made in the form of a sandwich and consisting of an inner and outer pipe),
- corrugated, characterized by increased flexibility.
Note! At home, it is technically possible to make only a single-circuit pipe.
When choosing the thickness of the sheet, the purpose of the pipe should be taken into account. For example, a galvanized pipe for smoke exhaust from solid fuel stoves and fireplaces must have increased resistance to high temperatures and high anti-corrosion properties.
It is important! The higher the temperature working environment, the thicker the pipe walls should be.
Tools
For work, special tools are needed to bend, measure the bend angle correctly and cut the pipe of the desired length.
A set of tools that will be needed for work:
Note! The blades of the scissors should not be blunt, the formation of a smooth edge of the product depends on this. When cut with a blunt instrument, notches are formed, which must be removed. To avoid unnecessary work, it is important to monitor the quality of sharpening.
- hammer with rubber pad, mallet ( carpentry tool from wood in the form of a hammer),
- bending pliers,
- workbench for cutting and marking,
- a pipe for calibration with a size of more than 100 mm and an angle with edges of 75 mm,
- ruler or tape measure
- scriber (sharpened steel rod).
Instructions for the manufacture of galvanized pipes
First of all, you need to mark out a sheet of iron, drawing lines of folds of folds on one side with a size of 5 mm, on the other two times 5 mm, the fold on one side should be wider than the second in order to form a strong seam in the future. Bend the sheet at an angle of 90 ° on both sides, using a corner and pliers.
It is important! The shape should be folded gradually, moving from one edge to the other along the fold line.
Then, turning the workpiece, folds are formed, the angle is adjusted to 135-140 °, tapping the edges of the tin with a mallet or a hammer with a soft striker, carefully so as not to damage the material of the product. After the formation of the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe itself.
Fix the workpiece on the calibration template to give it the desired shape, and tap again until the folds are connected.
The wide edge is again bent parallel to the plane of the product at an angle of 90°.
The last stage is the connection of the ends to each other with a flat seam using a mallet.
Align the folds, bend the horizontal part of the second fold, wrapping it around the first fold, and then bend this seam, pressing it firmly against the pipe plane.
You can additionally strengthen the junction with metal rivets using welding machine, although most often galvanized pipes connected with a flat seam do not need additional reinforcement.
How to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands?
Galvanized pipes are already quite affordable in terms of costs, but at the same time, the process can be made even cheaper using hand-made products. Tools and instructions for creating a pipe with your own hands.
Home builders try to select the best solutions to solve problems. budget options. Therefore, the question of how to make a tin pipe with your own hands is relevant for many amateur craftsmen. After all, a home-made tubular product made of tin can be quite compared with drains or casings that lie on shelves in specialized stores.
Therefore, it is necessary to learn more about the manufacturing process of a tin pipe that has the characteristics of factory products.
Features of the source material
Before proceeding with the manufacture of a pipe from a sheet of metal, you should get to know the material from which the pipe will be made and its features. To begin with, it is worth saying that these are rolling products, in other words, tin is a sheet of steel that has passed through the rollers of a rolling mill and has a thickness of 0.1-0.7 mm.
In addition to rolling operations, tinplate manufacturing technology involves the processing of finished rolled products from the formation of corrosive processes. To do this, a layer of material is applied to the steel after rolling, which is not susceptible to corrosion.
The result of the actions taken is steel sheet, the width of which can vary from 512 to 1000 mm, with a chrome or zinc coating. finished product is plastic, so tin is easy to manual processing. At the same time, rolled stiffeners can be compared in strength with steel products. This allows the use of tin in the manufacture of products of complex design.
Required Tools
The list of tools and fixtures necessary for making galvanized chimney pipes with your own hands is due to the properties of tin, in particular softness and plasticity. The processing of this type of material does not require any special effort, which is necessary for working with sheet materials.
Therefore, in the production of tin pipes for the chimney, the following set of tools is needed:
- Scissors for cutting metal. This tool makes it easy to cut sheet material into the desired pieces, since the largest thickness of the sheet reaches 0.7 mm.
- Soft-faced hammer. You can also use wooden mallet, mallet, or steel tool with a soft rubber pad. However, the latter option is used very carefully or not taken at all, as it can cause deformation. thin sheet tin and ruin all the work.
- Pliers. With the help of this tool, they solve the question of how to bend a pipe from tin, because it is steel, although it is thin, therefore, it is impossible to bend it with your hands.
- Crafting table. This device is necessary when cutting material and when marking.
- Calibrating element. This can be a tubular product with a diameter of more than 10 centimeters, as well as a corner with edges of 7.5 centimeters. These elements must be well fixed, since a butt joint will be riveted on their surface.
In addition to these tools, you should prepare a ruler or tape measure and a scriber, which is a steel rod with sharp sharpening.
Instructions for making a tin pipe with your own hands
The manufacture of tin products, including pipes, takes place in three stages:
- Preparatory work involves marking the workpiece and cutting it out of a tin sheet.
- Forming involves forming the profile of a pipe or other product.
- In the final, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected.
And now more detailed description each stage of the manufacture of tin pipes with their own hands.
Preparatory stage
First, markings are applied to the sheet of tin, along which the semi-finished product will be cut. In other words, the necessary part is cut off from a certain tin sheet, from which the contour of the future pipe will be formed. The marking process is carried out as follows: the tin is laid out on a workbench and a segment equal to the length of the pipe is measured from the upper edge. This is where the marker is placed.
Then, using a square, a line is drawn along this mark perpendicular to the side edge. Now along this line the circumference of the pipe, the same is done along the upper edge. At the same time, about 1.5 cm are added along both edges to form the connecting edges. The upper and lower marks are connected and the workpiece is cut out.
To determine the circumference, you can use a tape measure, or you can recall a school geometry course.
How to make a pipe body out of tin
The purpose of this stage is to form a pipe profile. A line is drawn along the length of the workpiece at the bottom and at the top, along which the folds will be bent. At the same time, 5 mm are measured on one side, and 10 mm on the other. The folds must be bent at an angle of 90 0. To do this, the workpiece is placed on a steel corner, combining the fold line with the edge of the corner. Hitting the edge with a mallet, bend it to the perpendicular side of the corner.
Now, on a fold, the size of which is 10 mm, another fold of the fold is made to make a kind of letter G. In the process of bending the fold, you need to make sure that the upper fold is parallel to the workpiece, and its length is 5 millimeters. Therefore, when drawing the folding line of the fold, 0.5 cm is measured on one side once, and on the other side, twice 0.5 cm each.
After forming the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe body. To do this, the workpiece sheet is placed on the sizing element and they begin to tap with a mallet or other the right tool to get a profile of a particular shape. First, the workpiece takes U shape and then becomes round. In this case, the folds must be joined together.
Processing the junction of the folds
The final stage involves the processing of the butt joint, that is, its crimping. To do this, the upper part of the L-shaped fold is folded down, wrapping the edge of the other fold. The result should be a kind of sandwich, located perpendicular to the pipe. To get a docking seam, you need to press the sandwich to the product.
For greater reliability, the butt joint is strengthened with rivets. However, do-it-yourself tin pipes using this docking method do not need additional reinforcement.
How to make a pipe from tin - we do tin pipes do it yourself
How to make a tin pipe: how to bend a tin pipe, do-it-yourself galvanized chimney, sheet metal fabrication
Galvanized steel pipes are an integral part of the drainage system of any home. Purchasing ready-made gutters is a rather costly business. How you can make your own downpipes and thereby significantly save cash, described in this article.
Purchase finished elements drainage system is quite expensive. So, for example, a gutter made of galvanized metal costs about 100 rubles / m, a drain funnel - 160 rubles / piece, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm - 110 rubles / m, an elbow for a downpipe - 110 rubles / piece. If you calculate the cost of all the elements necessary to equip the gutter system for the whole house, you get a rather impressive amount. The natural question is how to save money? The answer is simple - do all the elements with your own hands.
Let's count. For the downpipe, galvanized iron is required. The price for a sheet of 2500x1250 mm is 600 rubles. To make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, a strip of metal 340 mm wide is needed - this is, in fact, the circumference of a circle with a diameter of 100 mm, plus bends. From one sheet comes 7 strips with this width. We get: 600 / 7 \u003d 85 rubles. for a pipe 1250 mm long, or 68 rubles / m - the cost of one meter of galvanized pipe. Save more than 60%! On other elements it will be even more.
If the above calculations convinced you of the need to learn self-manufacturing galvanized pipes and other elements from sheet metal So let's start learning. You need to start with the simplest - with pipes. How this is done will be discussed in this article.
Necessary tools and materials
In order to make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, we need the following tools and materials:
- The mallet is wooden or rubber. Generally speaking, the quality of this tool will primarily depend on the quality finished product. The mallet should be heavy enough, but so that it is easy to control the force of impact, not very hard, but at the same time dense enough.
- Metal scissors. Any will do, the main thing is that it is convenient for them to cut metal on large planes.
- A metal corner with a length of at least 1 m, installed on the edge of the table-workbench. It is on it that the metal will be bended, so it must be stable and massive enough.
- Steel pipe with a diameter of 60-90 mm, fixed horizontally - "gun". It will be used to assemble products. Accordingly, its length should also not be less than 1 m.
- Ruler.
- Scribe for metal. Any sharpened metal rod will do, up to a large nail.
- Actually, the sheet of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm.
We make a pipe from galvanized iron with a diameter of 100 mm
1. We cut off a blank from a solid sheet of metal with a width of 340 mm on one side and 330 mm on the other. The strip is narrowed so that the finished pipe enters the next one according to the “father-mother” principle.
It has washed away immediately to mark the entire sheet and set aside segments on each side in turn - on the one hand, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, and so on, on the other, respectively, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm. If it is not planned to connect finished pipes to each other or other elements, then mark out rectangles with sides of 340 mm.
2. We begin to make seams for the pipe on both meter sides. For this on metal corner we bend the edges of the sheet with a mallet by 7 mm on both sides, 90 ° in different directions relative to each other.
3. We turn the workpiece over, with a bent corner up and with a mallet we achieve an angle of approximately 130-150 °.
4. We make one more bend. The workpiece should protrude 1 cm from the corner. With a mallet we tap along the entire length of the corner. The blows must be strong, tight and confident. At the same time, the mallet must necessarily lie clearly on the plane of the corner, without deviating either to the left or to the right, otherwise the seam will simply flatten.
5. As a result, you get a sheet with such bends along the edges:
6. We crimp the workpiece around the “gun” pipe with our hands.
7. We hook both bends for each other.
8. We put the workpiece on the “gun” pipe and beat with a mallet at the place of adhesion of the corners until they are completely flattened.
9. The pipe is ready.
10. Ideally, you can slightly flare the pipe on the wide side to facilitate mating with each other, and roll rings at both ends to ensure rigidity, however, the pipe is still serviceable in the resulting form. If no mistakes are made when marking, then it will easily dock with other elements, including factory-made ones.
In the end, it should be noted that drains are not the only application of such pipes. Ventilation systems, various chimneys - galvanized pipes will find their application everywhere, so the ability to make them with your own hands will serve you in good stead more than once in saving money.
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Cap - a cap made of galvanized sheet for a brick pillar.
Choose any height "h", or taking into account the dimensions of the finished column. It is sometimes useful to increase the landing dimensions "a" and "b" by 5 - 10 mm, depending on the quality of the masonry. The size "d" can be "estimated" with a tape measure directly on the pole, or count according to the formula below.
* Lay the pattern face up. Drill a hole Ø3.5 mm. Bend the stiffeners (15mm) down by almost 90°. Bend all dotted lines at an angle of 90°. The deflection of the lines should be done in a sheet bender, at least in a home-made one from two corners (it will not be done for long). Then the bending lines will be straight, clear, without dents, and the product will eventually have aesthetic appearance. If there is no bender, then bend the line "a" and "b" as usual; bend lines "A" and "B" on a piece of corner No. 50 - 63 fixed on the edge of the workbench with the shelf up. To bend plane A or B all at once, or almost all of it, use a bar (picket) 25x45 mm 30-40 cm long.
Bend the faces along the lines "d" to the correct rectangular shape cap, umbrella. To do this, have a narrow mandrel: a corner 50 with a cut shelf, or a metal strip 1.5-2 mm thick attached to it, a saw blade is even better.
Check the fit of the upper (closing) stiffener to the back (rear) plane of the cap. Once again check that the product is not skewed; mark with a thin marker a reciprocal hole of 3.5 mm; punch, drill, and fix the assembly with a 3.2 mm rivet.
Bend the planes along the lines "A" and "B" inside the umbrella (into its place), holding it with your hands between a strip of metal (2 mm thick, 40-45 mm wide, ~ 30 cm long); and a bar (fence) 25x45 mm of suitable length. If necessary, seal this bend with a mallet. If necessary, slightly upset the top of the closing stiffener at the top of the cap.
The lower belt of the cap can be omitted from the pattern, but made separately. From a strip of appropriate length and width, bend a rectangle of landing dimensions "a" and "b"; bend the sides in its upper part for rigidity and fastening, and put it inside the cap before the final bending of the planes along the lines "A" and "B". If necessary, secure with a 3.2 mm rivet.
In the manufacture of caps large sizes divide the pattern into two halves, but not along the angular lines "d", but along the midpoints of opposite planes-faces. Connect the halves with two slatted "seams", placing the slats inside the umbrella, with the right side to the connection. A seam seam, especially on dyed material, can (and will) look messy. Do the lower belt for large caps separately.
Outside view of the cap small height- see drawing of square umbrella on page " gas extractor".
Simplified pole cap with brick belt:
For support legs and metal poles from profile pipes are used in the form of small caps. Plugs are made of thicker metal, usually in the shape of a low pyramid.
See the "Steel Roofing" page for making single and double connecting seams.
The node of the passage of the duct of the exhaust pipe in the roof of the roof.
The box is installed (put on) on a rectangular glass, all sides of which are 3-4 mm smaller than the sides of the box. The glass at the angle of the roof slope is riveted with a sheet of the same color as the color of the roof. It is convenient to draw a pattern of a box and an adjusting cutting glass on one tin sheet. With a small height of the structure, the ventilation (or protective, heat-insulating) duct can be connected directly to the roofing sheet, i.e. without an intermediate glass.
Mark a rectangular hole on the back (not the front) side of the cutting sheet. The dimensions of the sheet should be taken such that with a sufficient margin (at least 20 cm each) to cover the sections of the roof adjacent to the pipes, and cover the part of the sheet from the side of the ridge with the roof sheet from above.
Check the tightness of the glass on the sheet. Mark the reciprocal holes Ф3.5 mm for attaching the tailgate. Remove the glass, drill holes. Before final installation cups on the sheet, apply sealant or any water-frost-resistant glue under the fastening sides. Fix with rivets 3.2 mm tailgate; then side and front.
A glass and a box (already with an umbrella) alternately install (put on) on exhaust pipes for their heat-moisture insulation and improvement of appearance. On the side of the roof ridge in the lower part of the structure, additionally install a bumper corner in front of it to drain flowing water, especially if the flow pressure increases on a steep or long roof slope.
square umbrella and his pattern, pattern round umbrella for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm - on the page "Gas hood".
Umbrella, "chimney", weather vane.
Choose any height of the umbrella. If cut off in the end parts small areas in their upper corner (along the "K" line), then the "chimney" will have two additional windows for extraction. From above, close these windows with a protruding ridge, the ends of which can be cut off figuratively. According to the level of the same line ("K"), you can make one rectangular window in the upper part of the entire umbrella, which will have to be protected from above with a second umbrella, but smaller. Wind vane - an umbrella with a weather vane, often a combination of two umbrellas of various sizes and shapes is called a wind vane; one of her simple options on this. The pattern of the main (large) part can be divided into two identical parts - along the line of its ridge.
Drill four holes Ø 3.5 mm in two end pieces.
Bend all stiffeners along lines "d" by almost 90°.
Bend the stiffeners 15 mm along lines "A" and "B" by 90 °.
Bend the umbrella along the line of the ridge to the angle of the planes.
Bend all lines *60, taking into account the slope of the umbrella planes.
It is desirable to do bending in a bending machine - even a home-made one from two corners will significantly improve the quality of bending lines and appearance products.
Temporarily fasten the main part to flat surface, maintaining the "B" dimension.
Tightly attach the end piece to the main one. Mark reciprocal holes f 3.5 mm; drill. Fix the assembly with 3.2 mm rivets.
Racks are made from strips of the same material, folding the strip (w. 105-110 mm, length about 40 cm) twice - i.e. in three layers of 35 mm, WITHOUT DISCHARGE along the fold lines to maintain rigidity.
Marking holes for attaching racks to an umbrella:
In size calculationy"3 cm to accept an umbrella for boxes or belts made of tin, 6 cm - for an umbrella for a brick pipe.
Tee for extraction.
Mark and cut a hole in the pattern of the main nozzle "D". The lower drawing shows (as an example) the exact marking of the entry hole d 140 mm to D 150 mm. On the page "Gas hood" there is a drawing of marking the inlet for a tee that combines a diameter of 120 mm with a pipe of 140 mm; and a branch with a diameter of 120 mm, as the most commonly used when arranging an individual gas heating in a private house or apartment.
Marking the inlet with a diameter of 140 mm into a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm:
Prepare the folds, "roll" the branch pipe "D" into the shape of a pipe, but do not connect the folded seam.
Temporarily install the inlet pipe "d" into the rolled up (but not sealed at the seam) pipe "D". Align the mutual position of the nozzles. Branch pipe "d" (inlet) is cut off and cut along the line of the inlet. Bend the bead 8 - 10 mm wide along the cut line on the branch pipe "d" as shown in the figure.
Install the inlet pipe into the tee from the inside of the "opened" through pipe "D", fasten the folds, check the tightness of the adjoining parts. Seal the seam seam, drill reciprocal holes Ø 3.5 mm - fix the assembly with rivets Ø 3.2 mm. If necessary, add any sealing material to the connection line from the inside of the tee: putty, paint, sealant.
When extracting from gas equipment, from a heating boiler or from a water heater, special attention should be paid to the tightness of the connections.
Corners, ventilation outlets and gas ducts.
A simplified method for marking the mate line of branch links is presented, which, although approximate, but quite applicable in practice, gives a pattern. Reducing the number of retract links (angle) increases distortion and the need for adjustment (cutting) during assembly. Exact patterns of taps are built using descriptive geometry techniques.
Pattern and marking of the mating line of the links of the three-link branch by 90 degrees.
See the exact (in numbers) marking of the curved line for an outlet with a diameter of 120 mm on the "Gas hood" page. The pattern and marking of the line of pairing of links for a five-link bend of 90 degrees is on the page "Tee, bends, transitions". The patterns of the left side of the patterns are mirrored to the right side.
Connect the marking points into a smooth line, mirror the resulting pattern on the right.
Pattern and approximate marking of the interface line of two right angle links:
The pattern is given on the drawing right angle ninety degrees for a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.
Feeder for rabbits.
Pattern for making a bunker-type feeder from galvanized sheet. The drawing shows the dimensions of the details of the feeder with a capacity of 3.5 liters of dry bulk feed.
Rivet assembly can be replaced contact welding or spot soldering.
Drill all holes in the details of the first (trial) instance. Make cuts along the edges of the fold lines of the back and inner walls. Bend the fastening boards 15 mm by 90 degrees. Bend the 25 mm line of the rear wall inward by about 135 degrees, shape the feeder tray. Bend the inner and back walls to their working positions using side walls as a conductor. Make sure the holes match. If necessary, correct their location on the details of the following instances. Connect the inner wall with 3.2mm rivets to both side walls. Invest in back wall, install rivets.
The feeder can be supplemented with a top cover and fastening elements to the cage.
Drainage funnel, gutter.
Dimensions, figured cut of the top and artistic elements water intake funnel - at the discretion of the performer. It is useful to increase the width of the strip for cutting each section of the gutter following the flow of water by 1 - 2 mm.
In connection with big amount material, some drawings and drawings have been moved to other pages, in accordance with their subject matter.
Patterns of a confuser, a diffuser, a transition from a round section to a round section of a different diameter (bucket), from a rectangular section to a round section, to a rectangular section - are on the page "Drawings, schemes, drawings of the site".
Home builders try to select the most budget options to solve problems. Therefore, the question of how to make a tin pipe with your own hands is relevant for many amateur craftsmen. After all, a home-made tubular product made of tin can be quite compared with drains or casings that lie on shelves in specialized stores.
Therefore, it is necessary to learn more about the manufacturing process of a tin pipe that has the characteristics of factory products.
Features of the source material
Before proceeding with the manufacture of a pipe from a sheet of metal, you should get to know the material from which the pipe will be made and its features. To begin with, it is worth saying that these are rolling products, in other words, tin is a sheet of steel that has passed through the rollers of a rolling mill and has a thickness of 0.1-0.7 mm.
In addition to rolling operations, tinplate manufacturing technology involves the processing of finished rolled products from the formation of corrosive processes. To do this, a layer of material is applied to the steel after rolling, which is not susceptible to corrosion.
The result of the actions performed is a steel sheet, the width of which can vary from 512 to 1000 mm, with a chrome or zinc coating. The finished product is plastic, so tin can be easily processed by hand. At the same time, rolled stiffeners can be compared in strength with steel products. This allows the use of tin in the manufacture of products of complex design.
Required Tools
The list of tools and fixtures necessary for making galvanized chimney pipes with your own hands is due to the properties of tin, in particular softness and plasticity. The processing of this type of material does not require any special effort, which is necessary for working with sheet materials.
Therefore, in the production of tin pipes for the chimney, the following set of tools is needed:
- Scissors for cutting metal. This tool helps to easily cut sheet material into the desired pieces, since the largest thickness of the sheet reaches 0.7 mm.
- Soft-faced hammer. You can also use a wooden mallet, mallet, or steel tool with a soft rubber pad. However, the latter option is used very carefully or not taken at all, as it can cause deformation of a thin sheet of tin and ruin all the work.
- Pliers. With the help of this tool, they solve the question of how to bend a pipe from tin, because it is steel, although it is thin, therefore, it is impossible to bend it with your hands.
- Crafting table. This device is necessary when cutting material and when marking.
- Calibrating element. This can be a tubular product with a diameter of more than 10 centimeters, as well as a corner with edges of 7.5 centimeters. These elements must be well fixed, since a butt joint will be riveted on their surface.
In addition to these tools, you should prepare a ruler or tape measure and a scriber, which is a steel rod with sharp sharpening.
Instructions for making a tin pipe with your own hands
The manufacture of tin products, including pipes, takes place in three stages:
- Preparatory work involves marking the workpiece and cutting it out of a tin sheet.
- Forming involves forming the profile of a pipe or other product.
- In the final, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected.
And now a more detailed description of each stage of making tin pipes with your own hands.
Preparatory stage
First, markings are applied to the sheet of tin, along which the semi-finished product will be cut. In other words, the necessary part is cut off from a certain tin sheet, from which the contour of the future pipe will be formed. The marking process is carried out as follows: the tin is laid out on a workbench and a segment equal to the length of the pipe is measured from the upper edge. This is where the marker is placed.
Then, using a square, a line is drawn along this mark perpendicular to the side edge. Now along this line the circumference of the pipe, the same is done along the upper edge. At the same time, about 1.5 cm are added along both edges to form the connecting edges. The upper and lower marks are connected and the workpiece is cut out.
To determine the circumference, you can use a tape measure, or you can recall a school geometry course.
How to make a pipe body out of tin
The purpose of this stage is to form a pipe profile. A line is drawn along the length of the workpiece at the bottom and at the top, along which the folds will be bent. At the same time, 5 mm are measured on one side, and 10 mm on the other. The folds must be bent at an angle of 90 0. To do this, the workpiece is placed on a steel corner, combining the fold line with the edge of the corner. Hitting the edge with a mallet, bend it to the perpendicular side of the corner.
Now, on a fold, the size of which is 10 mm, another fold of the fold is made to make a kind of letter G. In the process of bending the fold, you need to make sure that the upper fold is parallel to the workpiece, and its length is 5 millimeters. Therefore, when drawing the folding line of the fold, 0.5 cm is measured on one side once, and on the other side, twice 0.5 cm each.
After forming the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe body. To do this, the workpiece sheet is placed on a sizing element and they begin to tap with a mallet or other suitable tool to obtain a profile of a certain shape. First, the workpiece takes a U-shape, and then becomes round. In this case, the folds must be joined together.
Processing the junction of the folds
The final stage involves the processing of the butt joint, that is, its crimping. To do this, the upper part of the L-shaped fold is folded down, wrapping the edge of the other fold. The result should be a kind of sandwich, located perpendicular to the pipe. To get a docking seam, you need to press the sandwich to the product.
For greater reliability, the butt joint is strengthened with rivets. However, do-it-yourself tin pipes using this docking method do not need additional reinforcement.
