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How to make a hole in a pipe: instructions. How to make holes for pipes in different places How to drill walls for heating pipes

There is a need for their wiring through various obstacles, such as walls, floors and other elements. building structures.

But before making holes for the pipe, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the known methods for implementing such operations, which often affect not only bearing structures buildings, but also their decoration. In the specific conditions of laying a pipeline, a variety of methods can be used, which are supposed to be considered in our article.

What do you need to know?

Making holes in load-bearing walls and partitions involves compliance with the known requirements laid down in the current building codes. When preparing them, it is necessary to carefully monitor that such critical elements of building structures and communications are not damaged, which are:

• reinforcing and barrage gratings;
• electrical wiring lines;
• elements ventilation system(if available).

In addition, the hole prepared in the wall or floor should provide the possibility of placing a special protective sleeve in it, which, if necessary, can be insulated with any non-combustible material (mineral wool, for example).

General order of work

As for the main working tool, for the purposes indicated by us, a hammer drill is usually used, or a fairly powerful impact drill with a “crown” type nozzle, with which you can make holes of various diameters. The order of their preparation in this case is as follows:

• first in right place the wall is marked with a circle, the diameter of which is equal to the cross section of the pipe (together with the sleeve);
• then, using a crown of the appropriate size, a hole is drilled in the wall;
• when the nozzle “slips”, a punch and a hammer will be required, using which it will be possible to destroy the material in a place that cannot be drilled;
• after that, it will be possible to continue working until the finished hole is obtained.

To cut complex holes in certain materials, it will be necessary to prepare a set of crowns different size. For drilling partitions made of drywall, foam concrete, as well as wooden walls, you can use ordinary steel drills.

Note! In the event that it is necessary to drill a hole in concrete, a set of special pobedit drills will be required. With their help, you can work with materials with a thickness of 10-15 cm.

Working with complex coatings

Note! The main problem when working with surfaces finished with tiles (in bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens) is fragility facing material, for the preservation of which it is recommended to drill in a non-impact mode.

When preparing holes of large diameter, it will be possible to use the following techniques:

• use a special diamond "crown" as a nozzle, when using which the drill should work in low speed mode;
• use a special device called a ballerina;
• in order to exclude the possibility of slipping of the teeth of the nozzle or the tip of the ballerina from the surface of the tile, which is smooth and covered with a layer of hard glaze, the latter is preliminarily scratched with a file or sealed with a piece of masking tape.

To make holes in a tile, a simpler and cheaper, but more risky method is often used, which consists in the following. First with the help conventional drill with a diameter of 3–4 mm, several holes are drilled inside the marked circle. Then the gaps between these holes are carefully destroyed and removed with a well-sharpened chisel. And at the end of the work, using the same chisel, the edges of the hole expand to a predetermined size.

Preparation of holes in the floor

The procedure for preparing the marked holes depends both on the type of the sexual base itself, and on the type decorative coating laid on top of it.

Before starting work, first of all, you should decide whether it is possible to remove by cutting or disassembling a section of the decorative coating in the places where pipes are laid. If it is impossible to perform these operations, a hole in the finishing material (in a tile, for example), as well as in the floor base itself, is made using the methods already described earlier.

Video

Cut a big hole in chimney immediately difficult. The author of the video shows how to do this by drilling small holes in a circle. Further, this will help to cut a hole of the desired diameter with a crown:

The article will be useful to a person who is planning this work for the first time, and who has a “bitter” experience of labor intensity.

I ran into a problem - to drill a thick wall consisting of several layers, namely: a concrete block 200 mm thick., Sleeper 240 mm., Plastered 80 millimeters on each side, plus between the block and the sleeper is provided " air bag» 100 millimeters, no less. Somewhere I can be wrong with the sizes, but by measuring the thickness in doorway, the wall was 730 millimeters.

There is nothing terrible, as it were, work and work, throw a water pipe into a room attached to the house and that’s all, but the difficulty lies in drilling different materials, plus drilling is available only on one side, from the extension.
In fact: plaster, block, sleeper, plaster. In addition to the puncher, you will also need a drill with a drill bit for wood.

Orders of such a plan are quite rare, once every five years, so to speak, and the tool, accordingly, will need to be rarely used.

To drill holes for polypropylene pipes twenty (diameter = 21 mm), I need:

1. a drill for a perforator with a diameter of at least 22 mm (and preferably 25, remember yes that polypropylene expands on hot water?), And a minimum length of 300 mm., Here the thickness of the plaster and concrete block. Have you ever drilled a sleeper with a drill? .. go nuts ..;
2. drill for wood, of the same diameter, at least 650 mm long, here I take into account the thickness of the plaster and block conventionally drilled with a drill, plus the “air cushion” and plus the sleeper itself;
3. a drill for a perforator with a diameter of 12, a length of more than 730, here is the full thickness of the wall, (remember, yes, that drilling is available only from one side? Yes, and towards each other, the horseradish holes will coincide with two, and if you measure out thoroughly, then the slope according to any will be different).

Drilling a wall immediately with a large-diameter drill is very time-consuming and time-consuming, it is much easier and faster to drill a thin one, and then expand the hole with a larger one along the guide. I use this method up to several passes with various drills in increasing order, depending on the diameter needed in the end. The “old-fashioned” method is very effective, you save a lot physical forces, and what is relevant in my case is time - the work at first glance “the cat cried”, just bring out two tubes, BUT the wall ...

So, I went to the store, not familiar with the prices for the tool I need? The price tag for perforator drills, along with the length and increase in diameter, grows not just proportionally, but catastrophically, however, the same applies to screw drills.
Here are some screenshots with price tags:

Normal, right? And this is in our province! I wonder what the cost is in regional and capital cities?

An alternative to a long screw drill is the first, a condition of suitability - you buy an extension cord, one is missing, you take two, since it’s easy to connect with each other. I did exactly that, I already had one extension cord.

As a result, I received the required tool for an acceptable price, but you can’t explain to the customer that the tool is expensive, to put it mildly, he is not interested. Visibility is only two half-inch tubes brought out, and how you did it is your problem. The bottom line is that an identical order, as I wrote above, will probably fire in the next five years, and the tool will lie idle.

Step by step, as I drilled:

1. from the side of the attached room, I drilled with a 12 mm drill, plaster and block;
2. widened the hole with a 25 mm drill;
3. drilled the sleeper with a feather drill 25 mm;
4. then again setting a long thin drill drilled through the plaster at the exit;
5. with a 25 mm drill, on the other hand, expanded the diameter towards.

Conclusion:

In order to (one-time, or not one-time) drill concrete wall, say a meter thick, and 32 in diameter, it is not necessary to buy an expensive drill, but you will need one meter 12 ÷ 16 millimeters in diameter. The second in ascending order, let it be 25, but already half a meter long, and the next passage is the thirty-second, but again half a meter, you drill towards them. This is me, for example, to convey the idea in an accessible way, variations on the occasion.

And one more thing: with feather drills, the option does not work with a gradual increase in diameter, you drill right away with a wide feather, the price for them is cheap compared to drills, and I have not seen wooden walls of great thickness.

Two useful additions, naturally based on personal experience:

First:

Being engaged in the installation of pipes, in addition to plumbing, if necessary, I also install sewers. It is no secret that the diameter of the pipes here is larger, from 40 to 150 millimeters, of a drilling rig with diamond crowns I don’t have it, so I fulfill orders using the same puncher.
I proceed as follows: I mark a circle of the required diameter on the wall, drill holes along its perimeter with a thin long drill, then, according to the same principle that I lit up above, I expand the diameter of each of the holes to the maximum available in the arsenal. Then, replacing the drill with a spatula, and switching the puncher mode to chiselling, I get rid of all that is superfluous. So ... I agree that the work is not pleasant, but this is just one of the disadvantages during installation. It should be borne in mind that this process is relevant with a small wall thickness, say a maximum of 300 millimeters, with a much larger thickness, you put the customer in front of a fact: ordering a drilling rig is a device, as noted above, using crowns with diamond tips. The operation is not cheap, but with all the "breadth" of choice ..., the customer pays, then we go in with the installation.

Second:

Let's say you do the first step yourself: you drill a concrete wall, trying to get a hole with a diameter of 140 millimeters, and you have a "surprise" in the form of reinforcement (usually in the walls panel houses).. You can’t take it with a drill, to help arc welding, for lack of it, an angle grinder, which is problematic to use, access is difficult, you have to puff, creating access ... in short, I don’t advise you to bother.
Exit: cut by welding or gas cutting. There's no such thing? Find! As in that proverb: “It’s better to lose a day, but then fly in five minutes!”

Questions, additions: in the column - comments, and that's all for me today, with respect

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The smoke exhaust structure is an element that is characterized by increased fire hazard, therefore, solving the problem of how to make a hole in the roof for a pipe should be approached responsibly. It is also important to protect the roof from moisture penetration, otherwise its service life will be significantly reduced.

Corrugated roofs deservedly enjoy the trust of the owners of private houses, because they have:

• a light weight;
• long operating period;
• appearance resembling relief ceramic tiles.

Decking is thin, durable and corrosion-resistant metal sheets that are coated with paint and pressed into the desired shape. After installing stoves or heating boilers, it is necessary to make a passage for the chimney through the roof structure.

Every homeowner must understand how to get the pipe through the roof from the corrugated board. Even if this work is done by professionals, it will not hurt to control the result.

Types of chimney structures

The chimney pipe is used to remove smoke and combustion products into the atmosphere. It is a hollow cylinder.

For organization this process oven builders:

1. brick chimneys. The smoke exhaust system is created from heat-resistant bricks, which are produced using a special technology specifically for arranging furnaces. The pipe in this case has a section of a rectangular or square shape. This method of getting rid of smoke is expensive, but it is more durable and safer. Its main disadvantage is the porous inner surface - for this reason, soot and dust are deposited on it in large quantities. If the pipe is not cleaned regularly, soot layers can completely or partially clog it, the traction force will decrease, and the risk of fire will increase. The process of how to bring the chimney through the roof from corrugated board is difficult and therefore this work it’s better not to do it with your own hands - it should be done by experienced stove-makers.
2. Metal chimney systems. To assemble the structure of the required configuration, you need to purchase stainless steel pipes with the addition of zinc or molybdenum. Then insert the segments one into the other - you will need straight tubular products, clamps and bends. Due to the slippery inner surface, soot cannot accumulate, which means that smoke can move freely up outside the house. The disadvantage of this method is that the metal does not retain heat well enough compared to the brick, as a result of which condensation collects on it, since there is a temperature difference between the pipe and the air outside. The metal chimney structure can be easily brought to the roof, because it consists of individual elements.

Chimney outlet - how to cut a hole

Before cutting a hole for a pipe in a profiled sheet, you should choose a convenient place for this. The decisive factor here is the location of the furnace unit.

According to professionals, the chimney should be placed strictly vertically, taking into account some of the nuances:

1. It is advisable to make a hole for the exit of the chimney pipe at the highest point of the roof, which means closer to the ridge. The optimal distance from it to the chimney is 50-80 centimeters.
2. Before making a hole for the pipe in the corrugated board, you should make sure that it does not fall on the elements of the rafter system. To get around them, bends are used, with the help of which they set a turn of 45 or 90 degrees.
3. The length of the chimney segments is selected so that the joints between them are below or above the intersections of the roof and ceilings, otherwise a quality connection will not work.
4. It will be possible to achieve the required level of thrust if the height of the chimney structure exceeds this parameter at the ridge by 1–1.5 meters.
5. To make sure that the exit point is determined correctly, it is circled on the roof with a marker and the temperature in it is checked at the end of the day. The pipe must be in the cold zone at all times.

Preparatory measures for the removal of the chimney through the roof

There is the following technology, how to make a hole in a profiled sheet for a pipe:

1. First, a permanent marker marks the place of its removal to the roof.
2. The size of the section of the chimney elements is selected taking into account the manufacturer's recommendations heating unit. The thicker and higher the pipe, the easier the smoke comes out of the stove. The main thing is that when connecting between the elements there is no gap.
3. A hole is cut out with a grinder with a thin blade for metal work, stepping back a few centimeters from the drawn line. The corrugated board must be cut carefully and slowly so that the edge of the cut is without jags.
4. Short cuts are made in the corners of the holes so that the edges of the corrugated board are bent up.
5. A similar passage is made in the ceiling. Then a metal box is installed, designed to connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney is laid through the hole inside the box.
6. From the exit cut out in the roof, hydro and vapor barrier material and also a heater.

For cold areas where the thickness thermal insulation material more than 15 centimeters, you need to use sandwich pipes with two layers of metal and a layer of insulation between them.

How to remove a pipe on a roof from corrugated board

When the preparation for how to bring the chimney through the corrugated board is completed, it should be properly connected and the chimney put into operation, for which:

1. It is necessary to push the pipe through the hole in the box and direct it towards the roof, and the edges waterproofing material fix with adhesive tape on the surface of the chimney.
2. Expanded clay is densely poured into the box or mineral wool is used.
3. A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe to protect the outlet from water seepage. To improve waterproofing, glue the sealant to the corrugated board using a fire-resistant sealant.
4. The smoke exhaust structure is extended in segments to the required height, while the joints are tightened with galvanized steel clamps.
5. Install an outer apron having a color roofing, which will close the box and rubber seal.

When bringing the chimney to the roof, it must be remembered that neglect of such work can result in a fire and material losses.

The passage of the pipe through the roof of corrugated board and metal tiles

Roofs made of corrugated board have earned the trust of private developers due to their light weight, long service life and an appearance that mimics the relief of traditional ceramic tiles. Sheets of corrugated board are a thin, durable, corrosion-resistant metal, which is covered with a layer of paint and, using pressing, gives the surface the desired shape. To heat the house, they install wood stoves, gas boilers solid fuel stoves. Since the installation of such equipment is a technically complex matter, it is trusted by professionals. However, to ensure the passage of the pipe through the metal tile and corrugated board is the task of the homeowner.

Types of chimneys

The flue pipe is a hollow cylinder through which smoke and combustion products are discharged into the atmosphere. The stove-makers use the following options for organizing this process:

Choice of output location

Choosing a convenient place for making a hole in the roof from corrugated board for a chimney pipe is half the battle. Naturally, the decisive factor in this matter is the location of the furnace. Professional stove-makers recommend placing the chimney strictly vertically, but there are more subtle nuances:

• It is best to place the chimney outlet at the highest point of the roof, that is, closer to the ridge. Optimal distance from the ridge to the pipe - 50-80 cm.
• It is desirable that the hole in the corrugated roof for the pipe does not fall on the elements of the truss system. To get around them, they use bends, corner sections of the chimney. They can be used to set the rotation to 90 or 45 degrees.
• The length of the chimney pipe segments is calculated in such a way that the joints are above or below the places where the ceilings and corrugated roofs pass. Otherwise, it will be problematic to make a quality connection.
• To ensure good draft, the height of the chimney system should be 1-1.5 more than the roof ridge. If the pipe is too high, the flow of smoke will have time to cool down while passing through it, which leads to condensation.

To check whether you have correctly determined the exit point of the future chimney, draw a mark on the roof from the corrugated board with a marker and check its temperature at the end of the day - the pipe should be located in the "cold zone", that is, remain in the shade for almost all day.

Preparatory stage of work

So that during the installation of the pipe there are no difficulties, you need to prepare the place of work and tools in advance. A hole from corrugated board is cut out according to the following technology:

1. After determining the configuration of the chimney, they outline where the exit to the roof will be located. Recall that it is better to place the pipe vertically.
2. Select the cross-sectional size of the chimney pipes based on the manufacturer's recommendations heater. The thicker and higher the pipe, the better the smoke is removed from the furnace. It is important that all segments are of the same section and fit each other, inserted without a gap.
3. On the corrugated roof, outline the pipe outline with a permanent marker.
4. A grinder with a thin wild metal cuts a hole, stepping back from the intended line a couple of centimeters inward. Work with corrugated board should be done carefully and slowly so that the cut edge is even, without notches that can injure you during the pipe removal process.
5. In the corners of the hole, short cuts should be made to bend the edges of the corrugated board up.
6. In the ceiling they cut out the same weigh. Mount a metal box that will connect the pipe to the rafters. The chimney will pass through the hole inside the box, the distance between their walls must be at least 15 cm.

For the northern regions, in which the insulation layer exceeds 150 mm, sandwich pipes are recommended, which consist of two layers of metal and heat-insulating material between them.

Exit the chimney to the roof

All preparatory work done, it remains only to connect the pipe correctly and put the chimney into operation. To bring the chimney to the roof, you must:

• Insert the chimney through the hole in the box and direct it to the roof. With adhesive tape, the edges of the waterproofing film and vapor barrier membrane securely fixed to the surface of the chimney.
• Fill the box tightly with expanded clay or lay mineral wool. These types of insulation are not subject to fire, so they insulate the pipe and protect against sudden ignition. wooden elements truss system and battens.
• A rubber or silicone seal is put on the pipe, which protects against moisture infiltration at the outlet. To provide the best waterproofing the sealant is glued to the corrugated board with a fire-resistant sealant.

Do not be afraid of overheating of the waterproofing film from the surface of the chimney, it is reliably protected from fire mineral wool or expanded clay embedded in a box.

Even a novice craftsman can carry out the withdrawal of a chimney to the roof, the main thing is not to forget that a negligent attitude to this issue can lead to a fire and the loss of your property.

How to bring a pipe through a roof from corrugated board

Today, corrugated roofing is one of the most common.

It is convenient to install, it has excellent technical and performance characteristics and it has a wide range of colors.

But, despite all the convenience of installation, sometimes such a roof leaks, and often this leak occurs in the place where the chimney is located.

Today we will fully reveal the question of how to bring the pipe through the roof from corrugated board.

Where is the best place to withdraw

Device rules chimneys designated in SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning". So in SNiP there are clear recommendations about the height of the pipe, which depends on its location:

1. If the chimney is located within 1.5 meters of the ridge, it should be 30 cm above the roof.
2. If the chimney is located within 1.5-3 meters from the ridge, its height should correspond to the height of the roof.
3. If the chimney is located within 3-10 meters of the ridge, the height of the chimney should be 12 degrees below the ridge.

If the height of the chimney is lowered, the draft may turn out to be insufficient, if it is too high, the risk of condensate will increase, and it is very harmful, as it contains acids that destroy the stove brick.

But the SNiP does not indicate where it is preferable to locate the pipe passage through the corrugated roof. At the same time, experts advise placing it on the skate, or as close as possible to it.

• Firstly, it will prevent smoke from entering the attic.
• Secondly, the smallest part of the chimney will remain in the cold zone, which will prevent the formation of condensate.

Installation of an adjoining to a rectangular chimney

To prevent leakage at the outlet of the chimney, it is necessary to properly connect. For this, a so-called apron is made. His the main task consists in collecting and draining water, which can get into the gap between the pipe and the corrugated board. As a rule, they make the lower (main) and upper (decorative) junctions.

For the lower connection, you will need a sheet of galvanized steel, and standard strips of the same steel 150 by 230 mm. On such slats there is a 20 mm strobe bend at the top, and a 16 mm bend at the bottom to protect against leakage. The installation procedure is as follows:

1. Installation of a sheet of galvanized steel from the bottom edge of the chimney to the eaves. A tie may be used instead.
2. Chimney grating. To do this, the abutment strips are tightly attached to the pipe, with a construction pencil, or a marker, a line is marked along the edge of the bend for the strobe. Gating itself is convenient to produce with a grinder with a circle around the stone.
3. It is very important to correctly bend the sheets one under the other. Therefore, the first junction bar is installed from below.
4. Next, the side rails are installed.
5. The top bar is installed last.

Before installing the profiled sheet, it is necessary to resolve the issue of waterproofing the pipe on the roof from corrugated board. There are two popular ways:

1. Using only standard waterproofing film. To do this, when it is installed at the place where the chimney passes, an incision is made with an envelope. After installation, the excess part must be removed, leaving a margin of 5-10 cm, after which the waterproofing can be glued to the pipe. But at the same time there is a risk of moisture getting directly onto the membrane.
2. Additional waterproofing. It is best to use self-adhesive waterproofing tape. It is installed under a decorative abutment. The installation sequence is the same as for the lower junction: starting from the bottom, go to the sides, and then up.

The next stage of work is the installation of a profiled sheet, after which decorative junction strips are installed. The order of work here is the same as described above, with the exception of the need for gating.

Features of the installation of the junction when the chimney is led out through the ridge

The exit of the chimney through the ridge is the most convenient option for the subsequent installation of the adjoining. At the same time, the risk of leakage is also minimized, and the possibility of snow and debris being trapped on the roof is excluded.

At the same time, to implement this idea, it will be necessary to violate the integrity of the ridge beam. This problem can be solved by installing additional supports.

If the chimney exits exactly in the center, an apron made of smooth metal, the same color as the entire roof, is used to remove precipitation. The base of the apron must be sealed.

by the most suitable material will be butyl rubber self-adhesive tape. The upper part must be protected from leakage by a decorative abutment.

Features of the installation of the junction when the chimney is taken out on the slope

Despite all the convenience of the method described above, the chimney is most often displayed on a slope. In principle, this does not create a large number of additional problems, and we have already described above how to properly mount the junction and arrange waterproofing. Except, perhaps, one important "but".

Installation of connection to a round pipe

Often instead of rectangular brick chimney use a round tube. For waterproofing such a pipe, bitumen-based roll waterproofing or modified bitumen foil tape is used. Moreover, the foil will protect the tape itself from overheating, which will significantly extend its service life.

To protect the outlet of the chimney, it is not necessary to install two stages of abutment.

Instead, an apron-cap, or, as it is also called, a roof passage, is put on a round pipe.

Fasten it directly to the crate and seal it with a sealant.

When using a roof passage, it is important to consider one nuance.

The rubber heated by the pipe will melt. To prevent this from happening, a clamp with a heat-resistant gasket is attached to the chimney at the junction between the pipe and the apron.

How to run a chimney through an existing roof

We have already answered the question of how to bypass the pipe on the roof with corrugated board. Now consider the situation when it is necessary to bring the chimney through an existing roof.

First, the following preliminary work is carried out:

1. Determination of the diameter of the future chimney.
2. On a sheet of corrugated board, a construction marker indicates a cutting line. It is worth leaving a few centimeters of margin to the smaller side. For example, if you need a hole of 40 by 80 cm, then you need to mark 38 by 78 cm.
3. The hole cut is best done with a grinder with a thin circle for metal. To avoid the formation of burrs, work is carried out as carefully as possible.
4. Make small cuts at the corners of the hole and bend outward those few centimeters of the profiled sheet that we left in reserve.
5. In the place where the pipe passes, it is necessary to make a continuous crate so that it is possible to fix the lower junction bar and the corrugated sheet.
6. Cuts are made in the insulation and waterproofing. In order not to throw away too much, the waterproofing can be cut with an envelope and temporarily secure the edges with staples. This cannot be done with a heater.
7. A box is built between the chimney and the two rafters on the sides of it. The gap between it and the chimney itself is around 150 mm.
8. The edges of the waterproofing film are glued to it.
9. Before leading the pipe through the roof, it is necessary to solve the issue of thermal insulation in order to avoid a fire. Best suited for these purposes stone wool. Just for this, we left a gap in the box.

After the pipe has been thermally insulated, you can proceed to its direct installation.

1. We install the chimney in the box. It is important that there is at least 5 centimeters of clearance between the exposed parts of the pipe and the tree.
2. To prevent the pipe from falling over, steel clamps are used, which are attached to rafter system and batten boards.

The next step is outdoor work. Now we will look at how to seal a pipe on a corrugated roof.

1. If just a round pipe is brought out, without a box, it is necessary to waterproof it using foil tape or roll waterproofing, and install the roof passage, attaching it to the crate we created and sealing the fit with sealant.
2. If a rectangular box is brought out, you will have to install a lower abutment bar to prevent leakage.

Chimney lining with corrugated board

Chimneys are subject to aggressive influence environment. This:

1. Temperature fluctuations and precipitation.
2. The formation of condensate due to the temperature difference between the air and the chimney.

Also, a bare pipe on a corrugated roof is not attractive from a purely aesthetic point of view. To solve both of these problems, it is necessary to carry out the lining of the chimney.

There are several popular types of facing materials:

We will consider how to line the pipe on the roof with corrugated board. The profile sheet has several advantages at once:

• Durability
• Wide range of colors
• Ease of installation
• Easy Maintenance
• light weight
• Temperature resistance
• Ecological cleanliness

In addition, corrugated board manufacturers produce special facing sheets designed for finishing different designs including chimneys.

Thus, for lining the pipe we need:

1. Gloves or mittens to protect hands. Profiled sheets are very sharp at the edges, especially if self-cutting was carried out.
2. Electric jigsaw with a special blade. In extreme cases, in its absence, you can use a grinder with a thin circle. But keep in mind that the grinder heats the metal very much, which harms the polymer and zinc coating of the sheet.
3. Screwdriver and screws.
4. Insulation. Any non-flammable material will do.
5. Dowels "mushrooms" for fixing insulation and ordinary dowels for attaching the frame.
6. Hammer for fixing dowels.
7. Drill with a drill for dowels. In its absence, you can use a screwdriver, but this will slightly increase the time costs.
8. Metal profile to create a frame. In its absence, wooden bars treated with an antiseptic are suitable.
9. Directly facing elements: profiled sheet and additional elements.

We proceed directly to the installation.

1. The first stage of work is the installation of insulation. To do this, we drill a hole right through it with a drill in the chimney and fix them with a hammer.
2. Next, we build a frame for cladding from metal profile and wooden bars. We fasten it to the chimney as well as a heater.
3. We measure and cut profiled sheets. Main principle: "Seven times measure cut once".
4. Attaching the cladding to the frame. To each other, the sheets can adjoin end-to-end or overlap. The second option is preferable, as it guarantees the absence of gaps.
5. Installation of additional elements made to order. This is the top eaves bar and chimney umbrella.
6. For greater aesthetic beauty, you can perform work on the installation of a decorative junction of the chimney.

Thus, today we found out how to bring the pipe through the roof from corrugated board, as well as how to line the chimney with corrugated board.

When installing plumbing, it may be necessary to drill a hole in the tile. In the article we will analyze various ways execution of this work.

Repair work may require making a hole in ceramic tiles under the pipe, sink, socket and so on. The tile may already be laid on the surface, which complicates the cutting process. How to proceed in this or that case, we will analyze in the article.

Preparatory work

It is difficult to hold the tool in the right position when drilling tiles due to its smoothness. Therefore, before starting work, you need:

• mark the location of the future hole;
• tape around the markings with masking tape.

This will avoid scratches on the surface, chipping and slipping of the drill.

How to make a hole

Depending on the required diameter of the hole for a pipe, a sink or just a dowel, one or another drilling option is selected. Some of them can only be used if you need to get a hole for a nail.

Options

The principles of cutting tiles are similar in all cases, but it has its own characteristics depending on the selected tool. The main thing is the observance of safety regulations.

Drill bit for ceramics

Let's look at drilling options:

1. Gradual increase in drill diameter. The advantage is that the risk of chipping is minimal. Stages:

• We take the smallest diameter of the drill.
• Drilling should be slow, avoiding overheating of the drill. To do this, moisten it with water.
• After deepening into the surface, when the tool does not slip so much, spray the tiles with water as well.
• After getting the first hole, take a drill of a different, larger diameter.

1. When there is only a thin drill. Stages:

• Drill several holes along the contour of the future hole for the pipe.
• Further, without applying special efforts, knock out the center.
• Grind existing irregularities using sandpaper.

To begin with, take a coarse-grained and gradually reduce the grit of sandpaper. This will achieve the smoothest possible inner surface.

Carbide drill for concrete

For drilling tiles, a carbide drill is also used. Sold in hardware stores as a drill with a pobedite tip. When working with it, you should adhere to the following rules:

Crown with diamond coating

The diameter must be selected according to the size of the future hole. Drilling order:

Circular drill for tiles / ballerina

There are special nozzles on the market for making holes in tiles - ballerinas. In fact, this is a drill with an additional cutting element.

1. In the center of the future hole, make a recess in any way.
2. Secure with a central drill in the hole made.
3. Work at the beginning with a drill at low speeds. Gradually deepening, the side nozzles will begin to scratch the tiles.
4. When half the work is done, turn the tile over and follow the same steps until the center falls out.

Using self-tapping screws with an LM tip

In the case when a hole needs to be made urgently, and there is no drill with nozzles or drills at hand, self-tapping screws with an LM tip are used. Operating procedure:

1. Outline the diameter.
2. We screw in the screws along the inner contour at small intervals and unscrew them.
3. We squeeze out the center and clean the bumps with sandpaper.

Bulgarian

For execution through holes in the tile before installation or curly cutting is used most often by the grinder. How to use the tool:

1. Outline the contours.
2. Install a diamond-coated dry cutting blade.
3. Gradually make a hole. The tool should be smoothly guided away from you. Take care of your fingers. Hold the tile so it doesn't slip off.

Work is performed on the front side of the tile to avoid chipping.

jigsaw

Used to make a hole various shapes on the edge of the tile or in its center.

1. Markup. Produced from the front.
2. Need to cut from the edge of a tile? You can get to work.
3. Need to make a hole in the center? A small hole is made with a drill to thread the cutting area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe jigsaw into it.
4. Set the tool to the edge of the cut.
5. Slowly, we lead the jigsaw along the markup.

Under the pipe

All options considered are suitable for making a hole. An exception is the method of drilling with a drill bit in ceramics with a gradual increase in diameter, since there is no tool of this size.

For the great snipe

You can make a hole under the dupel in almost any way considered. However, options such as the use of a jigsaw and a ballerina are considered inappropriate in this case. It is best to use a drill for ceramics or tiles.

How to cut under the faucet

The size of the hole for the mixer is smaller in diameter than for the pipe. However, the drilling options are identical in both cases.

Under socket

Sockets are different forms. Therefore, when choosing a tool, you should build on it. If the shape is round, then all options are suitable except for a gradual increase in the size of the ceramic drill. If the square The best decision- it's a jigsaw.

Do-it-yourself hole with improvised means

A hole at the edge of the tile can be made without using the above options. You will need a glass cutter and tongs/pliers. Stages of work:

1. Marking the future hole.
2. Soak the edge in warm water for a few minutes. This will soften the ceramic.
3. With a glass cutter, without lifting the tool from the tile, draw a line along the markup. You need to make a fairly deep furrow, so do the work with effort, but carefully.
4. It is necessary to tap along the cut line. This will make the groove deeper.
5. Use tongs to break off a small piece of the tile until complete removal excess material.
6. If there are irregularities, use fine-grained sandpaper to sand the edge.

How to drill a hole in a large diameter tile: work steps

If you need to make a hole of a large diameter, use the following scheme of work:

1. Mark center.
2. Mark the diameter.
3. Insert a ceramic drill into the drill. As an alternative, a concrete drill, but of the smallest diameter.
4. All over the circle we do with reverse side hole tiles. The distance between them is minimal.
5. Carefully punch out the center.
6. Remove bumps with pliers or wire cutters.
7. Sand the inner diameter with fine grit sandpaper. Alternative sandpaper- abrasive stone

Do not use an impact tool, as the risk of splitting the tile web increases. Ceramics, though hard and tough, is quite brittle.

In order not to form chips that spoil the appearance of the tile, you must adhere to the following rules:

1. Careful choice of tool, namely its cutting part. It is necessary that the glazed layer is gradually destroyed, and only then the ceramics.
2. Failure to meet performance standards. tile placed on a hard surface horizontal or vertical.
3. Excessive pressure on the instrument. The selected drilling option should be focused on cutting the ceramic sheet without additional pressure.

Depending on the purpose of the hole and the available tools at hand, the drilling method is selected. However, when performing work, it is necessary to observe safety precautions and follow the recommendations to reduce the risk of chipping.

Useful video

In the manufacture of various homemade products, sometimes there is a need for drilling round pipes. Perform this operation using the usual twist drills quite difficult, as this will require painstaking preliminary preparation. How to get out of the situation?

It will take

If there is an annular cutter of a suitable diameter (another name for a core, core, or annular drill), then work with curved surfaces, in particular, cylindrical, becomes much simpler and more productive.
We will also need a drive for tools, for example, a drill, a few ordinary twist drills different diameter and means for cooling the crown during operation. This can be a special cutting fluid, suitable machine oil, or, say, WD-40 multipurpose grease.

The algorithm of the drilling process using a crown

Drilling of the pipe surface must be directed strictly along the diameter, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve a positive end result.
1. We mark at the end of the pipe with a marker the intersection of the diameter with the walls of the product (there are many ways and devices for this).
2. Install the pipe so that one of the marks is strictly on top. Using a tape measure, we measure the required distance from it along the generatrix and mark it with a marker.

3. Clamp the pipe in a metal vise and punch the marked point using a core and a hammer.

4. We turn the pipe in a vice with the reverse side, mark the point opposite to the first, and also punch it.
5. We drill, using a thin drill and a drill, holes at the marked two points of the pipe.
6. Next, we drill them with a drill of a larger diameter in one pass through, since there is an upper guide and a lower centering hole.

7. Having replaced the twist drill in the drill chuck with a crown with a centering drill, we turn the pipe in a vice by 90 degrees so that the guide holes are horizontal. This will allow you to apply more effort when working with the crown.

8. Since during operation, the annular drill is very hot to cool it and facilitate the process, we generously lubricate the working teeth and the glass belt adjacent to them in a circle with WD-40 universal grease.

9. We insert the centering drill of the crown into the hole prepared in advance in the pipe and begin the process, adding lubricant to the crown from time to time.

10. After the crown came out with opposite side pipe, we get a cutout that, in terms of configuration, must exactly match the same diameter pipe, which is confirmed by a corresponding check.

11. If several nozzles of the same length with curly cutouts at the ends are required, then in pipe billet at an equal distance from each other, we drill centering holes, and alternately, using a core drill, we obtain the desired workpieces.

For reference

We remind you that outside diameter core drill and the pipe being processed must be strictly the same.