How can you insulate the walls inside the house. Rules and features of wall insulation from the inside. Warming of panel houses
When living conditions country house cease to be comfortable, it is urgent to take action. This concerns primarily lowering the air temperature inside. If the building freezes, it will be necessary to carry out thermal insulation work.
Wall insulation from the inside is not very welcome modern professionals, but sometimes it is impossible to do this from the outside. To be content own work and not to doubt the durability of the thermal insulation of the house, novice builders need to buy high-quality material, prepare the building wisely, and also comply with a number of requirements during the installation process.
The need for insulation of the inner surface
If the design country house allows you to carry out thermal insulation work outside and inside, it is better to implement both methods. Alas, some circumstances force residents of private buildings to neglect external insulation. These include:
- location immediately behind the wall of another building or other object, the distance to which will not allow placing a layer of heat insulator;
- passing on or inside walls of energy cables and similar equipment that cannot be removed;
- the presence of an expansion joint between buildings behind the wall;
- the prohibition of the authorities to modify the facade (for example, an object of cultural heritage);
- acute reluctance of residents to change the appearance of the building.
If at least one of the conditions above takes place, you can limit yourself to insulating the walls inside.
Regulatory requirements for microclimate parameters
There is no consensus among people about what is considered comfortable conditions. However, referring to GOST 20494-96 (“Residential and public buildings. Indoor microclimate parameters”), residents will find the following prescribed characteristics:
- air temperature inside the house - from 20 to 22, floor - from 22 to 24, walls - from 16 to 18 degrees;
- the room should accumulate and save heat;
- air humidity varies from 50 to 60%;
- complete absence of drafts (wind speed in rooms is up to 0.2 m / s).
The presence of deviations from the parameters prescribed by GOST is a sufficient reason for carrying out insulation work from the inside.
Features of sheathing the inner surface of the house
The impossibility of external thermal insulation of the walls is in itself a disadvantage of the structure. To it you can add the following minuses of the skin inside:
- decrease usable area premises (in case of floor and ceiling insulation - also volume);
- although the temperature gets higher, there is no accumulation of heat in the walls - they remain cold;
- the previous fact contributes to the formation of condensate, which causes dampness, mold, corrosion, and the appearance of microorganisms.
Fortunately, there are also advantages, and the main one is the normalization of the microclimate of the premises.
Distinctive features internal thermal insulation the walls of a private house, regardless of the material of the latter, are:
- The presence of two additional layers - hydro and vapor barrier. The first reduces the likelihood of moisture getting on the insulation from the outside, the second - from the inside (from the side of the rooms).
- Rapid temperature change in the room when opening vents, windows, doors.
- When using some heaters, “cold bridges” may appear - sections of the walls where condensate with cold air is concentrated.
- If possible, it is worth using environmentally friendly material for sheathing from the inside.
- You can save on wall insulation, which cannot be said about outdoor work.
- Doing work inside the house comfortable conditions year-round - the process will not be affected by natural factors.
- The presence of assistants is not necessary - all steps can be easily completed on your own.
Important requirements are placed on the design of preparatory stage lining inside. The key one is the maximum dryness of the walls.
Preferred materials for internal thermal insulation
The range of heaters presented in hardware stores is large. Further considered quality materials, best suited for inner lining houses.
The material is relatively cheap, has good thermal insulation characteristics. Suitable for all types of houses, except brick. The coefficient of thermal conductivity is not the highest - there are analogues with better performance. Other advantages of using polystyrene foam are:
- durability (30-50 years depending on the region where the house is located);
- lightness of the material (supplied in slabs that weigh a couple of hundred grams);
- ease of installation.
The cons are:
- susceptibility to fire;
- you can break or crumble the material if mishandled;
- poor vapor permeability;
- attraction for rodents;
- synthetic materials are used in the production.
A good alternative to the above insulation, which is extruded polystyrene foam. It is denser than polystyrene, it is allowed to insulate any surfaces of the house, but it is expensive. They better dress up small areas from inside buildings attic floors, caissons, cellars.
- low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
- minimal tendency to ignite;
- poorly absorbs water;
- high strength.
- high cost;
- poor vapor permeability.
Mineral wool
A modern material that is gaining popularity within the Russian market. Supplied in sheets or rolls different density and thickness (from 2 to 10 cm). In terms of environmental friendliness, it is better than the two previously described heaters, suitable for any home, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (approximately equal to foam).
- low flammability;
- resistance to rodents, insects;
- excellent vapor and air permeability;
- additionally acts as a good sound insulator.
- absorbs moisture (if more than 2% of the surface of the plate is wet, you can safely replace the insulation);
- a vapor barrier is required (when lining the PPS from the inside, it is permissible to neglect the rule);
- the material shrinks, requiring replacement after 10-15 years;
- for installation, you will need to make a crate, which will steal a large internal volume of the house.
Ecowool
The most preferred material in terms of environmental safety. It consists of elastic granules that do not allow the insulation to shrink, which distinguishes it from mineral wool.
- does not ignite;
- durable (up to 50 years);
- ecological cleanliness;
- soundproofing is akin to mineral wool;
- low thermal conductivity.
- high price.
- Ecowool (recommended first).
- Mineral wool.
- Styrofoam (extruded polystyrene foam).
supporters of diversity and unusual solutions can look for insulation from the inside of the options listed below:
Eco-friendly, safe; at the same time they can be used as a heater and decorative trim. Alas, due to the thin layer they are ineffective, they are only suitable for the southern regions.
- Styrofoam wallpaper.
They have a thickness of 3 to 10 mm (more than cork), can cover wall defects, almost do not reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe premises, are applied as ordinary wallpaper, only with special glue. They do not smell, they are safe, they protect well from noise, they are moisture resistant - they protect walls from mold. The only downside is flammability.
- Isoplat.
An innovative material consisting of two layers - fiberboard with a thickness of 10 to 25 mm and pressed linen. It is mechanically strong, environmentally friendly, but the thermal conductivity is worse than that of the recommended heaters.
The material is obtained by drying wood chips, later mixed with a binder and pressed. The protective layer better warns against rodents, insects, as well as mold or fungus. But it is not suitable for insulation from the inside of most private houses, since it begins to deteriorate at a humidity of more than 35%.
To achieve the normalization of the microclimate in the house due to the insulation of the walls, it is better to tip the scales in favor of proven materials - mineral wool, ecowool, polystyrene. You should not think that the impossibility of external thermal insulation will reduce the heat in the premises, because a competent choice of material and adherence to installation technology will certainly lead to the desired result.
How to competently solve the issue of warming a building, house or cottage after completing the main construction works? Any experienced builder will unequivocally answer: not only external insulation is necessary, especially if the building is made of brick and other materials that conduct heat well.
Causes of moisture
IN winter time year, with the onset of frost, the walls of our houses freeze through. In a correctly calculated wall thickness, the transition point from sub-zero temperature to positive, it is called the dew point, it is located inside the wall and condensation does not occur. That is why they used to build houses with stone walls no less than 80 cm thick. Today, with the use the latest technologies construction and innovative materials, it has become possible to build houses with thinner walls, but such buildings require the installation of additional heat-insulating structures.
The question arises: from the outside or inside conduct insulation?
Question exterior finish disappears in the case when the house is made of timber and does not require external finishing. If the house is made of stone, then it will be more competent to make insulation from the facade, but this does not exclude the carrying out of internal work.
There is the only exception - the internal insulation of the walls of an apartment in a multi-storey residential building, where the use of any type of thermal insulation material will not give tangible results.
How to insulate your home
If it is decided to abandon facade insulation, then how to insulate the house from the inside to avoid condensation? After all, it is he who leads to the appearance of fungal formations, the destruction of thermal insulation materials. Each owner needs that all thermal insulation internal construction worked effectively and efficiently. There are several widely used home insulation technologies.
Insulation of a log house or log house has its own characteristics. The thermal conductivity of wood is, of course, lower compared to stone, and wood retains heat well, however, when walls are insulated from the inside, moisture can form between the inner surface of the wall and the surface of the insulation. To avoid this, an air gap is made to blow wood and insulation. Technically, the problem is solved using a frame crate made of wood with a frame width equal to the width of the insulation boards. The crate is mounted at a distance of several centimeters from the wall to provide a ventilation effect.
From the side of the wall, a windproof membrane is pulled onto the frame, which performs a dual function: it protects air layer from overlapping with the fibers of the heat insulator and limits the excess movement of air inside the insulation. Insulate walls from the inside this case more expedient natural environmentally friendly materials. There is a wide choice of heaters from mineral wool, in Russia the most famous manufacturers are: URSA, ISOVER, ROCKWOOL, KNAUF and others. From the side of the room, the insulation is hermetically covered with a material that provides protection against the penetration of steam into the inner layers of the heat insulator.
The technology of insulation of concrete or stone walls similar to the previous design, but in this case it is necessary to provide large quantity technological openings for air intake. Much more condensate will appear than in the first case, and the air gap must be wide enough for intensive ventilation. In fact, it is necessary to build an additional internal wall.
When conducting thermal insulation works indoors, it must be understood that natural physical processes will affect the entire structure. This work requires a competent professional solution.
As a result, several main conclusions can be drawn:
- When installing thermal insulation on the inside of the walls of the house, the dew point inevitably moves to the inner surface of the wall. This will happen even with correct calculations of the thickness of the heat insulator. As a result, the service life of the entire thermal insulation structure is reduced.
- The thermal insulation structure must include vapor barrier membrane. As a result, it is necessary to solve the issue of normalizing the humidity in the room (increase in the cost of heating and ventilation systems).
- Insulation inside the room reduces the volume of rooms.
- Since the entire structure is installed inside the house, the issue of human safety becomes the most important. It is important to understand which of the heaters best meets this requirement. Materials from natural raw materials are the most the best choice. Soft slabs or mineral wool rolls, which have high heat-shielding and sound-proofing properties, are well suited. All materials with good performance vapour-permeable and capable of absorbing moisture will lose their functional properties over time.
- The use of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene, as materials that practically do not absorb moisture, is more beneficial. In this case, it is necessary to consider the hermetic fit of the plates to each other. The main disadvantage of this option is that synthetic material and they have to breathe.
- Today there is a lot of talk about polyurethane foam, which hardens when applied to the surface, and, of course, gives a strong adhesion to the inner surface of the wall. Condensation does not form, but for the work it is necessary to construct technological formwork. This process is quite long, while the wall does not breathe.
There are many wall heaters, there are plenty to choose from, but the decision must be made correctly. People will live, work and breathe in this house.
Video tutorial on interior insulation
You can insulate the house from the inside yourself. To do this, it is better to familiarize yourself with the video material:
As soon as we decide to insulate the house, a huge pile of questions appears in our head:
- How to insulate walls?
- How to insulate walls?
- What is the best way to insulate, outside or inside?
- But will the house become warmer, and will I not throw money away?
In this article I will try to answer all these questions in as much detail as possible, as well as talk about the currently popular materials for insulation.
How to properly insulate the walls of the house, outside or inside
Try to ask any builder how best to insulate the walls of the house, outside or inside? The answer will be obvious. Everyone knows that it is necessary to insulate walls from the outside, and to resort to thermal insulation of walls from the inside only in extreme cases. But at the same time, not everyone knows why the thermal insulation of the walls from the inside of the house is so undesirable.
Let's try to figure it out. The diagram shows three states of the wall of the house, with insulation from the outside, from the inside and no insulation at all:
Speaking of ordinary human language, then the dew point is the point where water vapor turns into water, thereby creating condensation.
If you look at the diagram, you can see that to the left of the dew point is a positive temperature, and to the right - negative.
When insulating from the inside:
- The wall remains unprotected by domestic heat, since the heat barrier from the insulation will not let it into the wall. Thus she is in winter period will be largely exposed to frost, constant moisture, and will not have time to dry out, since we blocked the way from the inside with a heater to the heat that protected the wall earlier.
- In the place of the dew point, condensate collects (air water vapor is converted into water droplets), this point will be as close as possible to the room, which means that the formation of moisture in this place will be maximum. As already mentioned, the insulation from the inside will interfere with the natural drying of the wall.
- The constant formation of condensate, without natural drying, can lead to the appearance of various kinds of fungi and mold on the wall. Do not console yourself with the fact that the fungus is behind the insulation and nothing terrible will happen. Mold and various kinds of green-black formations on the wall adversely affect not only appearance, but also on the health of the residents of such a house.
- If you look at the diagram, it shows that even without insulation, there will be less moisture on the wall from the inside than with insulation from the inside.
When insulating from the outside:
- From the side of the street, the wall is protected by insulation from the cold, and given the technology of insulation, and from moisture, and from the side of the room - by home heat, which warms up the wall sufficiently and even in cases of various kinds of condensate and moisture absorption by the wall, will contribute to its rapid drying.
- We take the dew point away from the room towards the street, which means that we also take the condensate away from the room.
- Insulation from the outside will greatly preserve the warmth and comfort in your home.
I think now it has become clear to everyone why everyone refuses to warm the walls of the house from the inside, and more and more often resort to warming from the outside. And it is necessary to insulate the walls from the side of the room only if there is no other way out.
How to properly insulate walls with expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) from the outside
I described in detail about the insulation of walls with polystyrene foam in one of my previous articles. Here I will mention some of the main points.
Preparing the wall for the installation of insulation
The first thing to do before insulating the walls with polystyrene foam or EPS is to clean the walls of the house from the outside of dirt, dust and, which is not unimportant, trim them. After that, they must be primed if you use glue to install the insulation.
If there are significant holes on the wall that you cannot level with glue, then after installing the insulation, a void may remain between the polystyrene foam plate and the wall. And this is highly undesirable, because even a light blow or push on the insulation to the place where the hole is, can deform or break it.
If a small tubercle comes across during the insulation process, it will be difficult for you to glue the expanded polystyrene sheet in that place tightly to the wall.
Installation of expanded polystyrene and EPS on the wall
Styrofoam, as a rule, is glued to the wall with a special glue for polystyrene foam boards, and sometimes with special "fungi".
In the case of insulation of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), it is necessary to make the surface on which the adhesive will be applied rough. There are no such problems with foam plastic, glue sticks it well without additional processing, and EPS - with more smooth surface so it needs to be processed.
Very often, for reinforcement, polystyrene foam is attached simultaneously to both glue and “fungi”, which is the most reliable and correct solution.
After installing the insulation, as a rule, the walls are plastered from the outside, or lined with facing bricks.
Styrofoam insulation with wooden slats
There is another type of installation of polystyrene foam plates - using a frame made of rails or other suitable material.
Rails are mounted to the wall, the thickness of which should not be less than the thickness of the insulation, and even better, that it be larger to create a ventilated space between the polystyrene foam and the cladding. The distance between the slats is chosen so that the polystyrene boards are tightly inserted between them without falling out.
This type of installation is acceptable if you do not plaster or brick the walls, but sheathe them with siding, for example. In this case, the slats will also become the basis for fixing facing materials.
How to properly insulate walls from the outside with mineral wool
Another popular insulation for the walls of the house are mineral wool insulation.
Wall insulation with mineral wool is different from wall insulation polystyrene boards, primarily due to the characteristics of the heaters themselves.
Mineral wool, in contrast to expanded polystyrene, is not a sufficiently rigid insulation, therefore, the installation of mineral wool is carried out, as a rule, wireframe method. But if the cotton insulation is of sufficient density, then the builders also do not disdain mounting on glue.
A frame is constructed from slats or small bars, and mineral wool is laid or rolled between them.
If the wall is concrete or brick, the bars are attached to the wall with dowel-nails. Well, if the wall of the house is wooden, then with self-tapping screws.
Additionally, you can fix the mineral wool with “fungi” so that it does not roll down.
Since wool insulation absorbs moisture very well, it will be necessary to provide waterproofing on top of the insulation. Without this, mineral wool will absorb moisture from the street and you can forget about the effect of warming.
It is also desirable to build, more or less reliable protection from various rodents, installing metal strips along the edges of the wall.
When facing the walls from the outside with brick, the insulation is laid between the main wall and the facing, while these two walls are connected with special bundles that pierce the mineral wool and at the same time hold it inside the wall, preventing it from rolling down in the future.
Wall insulation from the outside with polyurethane foam (PPU)
This is the most modern look insulation, but also one of the most expensive. The advantages of wall insulation with polyurethane foam are many:
- after application, it expands, filling all the depressions, cracks, etc.
- at a certain density, the vapor permeability is very low, which excludes additional vapor barrier
- has good adhesion, i.e. sticks well to the wall
- after hardening has good mechanical strength
- good heat and sound insulating properties
Of course, any coin has two sides, so here, too, there are enough shortcomings:
- polyurethane foam with low density, has good vapor permeability, which must be taken into account when insulating.
- low fire resistance
- expensive material
- spraying is recommended to be applied by professionals, which practically excludes do-it-yourself warming
- aging of polyurethane foam over time, with deterioration of heat-insulating properties
It is better to entrust the insulation of the walls of the house outside with polyurethane foam to professional workers using personal protection, since dangerous toxic substances are released during the spraying process.
In order to qualitatively insulate a wall in an apartment, you need not only to know what material is suitable for such purposes, but also to understand all the nuances of installation. special attention deserve corner apartments, where there are "cold" walls. But besides this, there are a few more features that must be taken into account.
Features of wall insulation in the apartment
in brick and panel houses There are many problematic issues with insulation. If they are not given due attention, then with the advent of cold weather this will manifest itself.
Rules for insulating the walls of the apartment from the inside
Among the features of wall insulation in the apartment, it is worth highlighting the following:
- Cold wall. This is the surface that directly "goes out" to the street. Due to temperature changes, it is prone to the formation of dampness, and later mold. The current requirements of SNiP indicate the need for its insulation with outer side, although this is not always possible.
- Dew point. This term is used to define the boundary where the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the indicator of the appearance of condensate. The problem manifests itself with the advent of cold weather. If the insulation is carried out from the outside, then the border will shift to the street side, with the inside - inward. In the future, this threatens the appearance of moisture on the walls from the side of the apartment, because water can accumulate directly inside the insulation itself.
To avoid condensation, you can use the following tips:
- for thermal insulation, use the material whose vapor permeability index is less than that of the facade material;
- the insulation must have a minimum moisture absorption and vapor permeability;
- seal all joints with a vapor barrier film and waterproof tape;
- if the installation is carried out with the help of glue, then a comb spatula is used in the work, which allows you to carefully apply the mixture on the surface;
- before installing the insulation, the walls must be properly prepared - cleaned, treated with an antiseptic and a primer;
- the apartment must be equipped with high-quality ventilation (natural or forced type).
Consequences of condensation - mold and fungus on the walls Important! Efficiency also depends on correct calculation material thickness. It depends on the average temperature in winter in a particular region.
Insulation: design options
The modern market represents a wide range of insulating materials. Each option has its strengths and weak sides. The choice must be made on the basis of specifications material, as the quality of insulation depends on it.
There are a number important points, which should be taken into account when selecting a heat insulator:
- the level of heat conduction;
- fire resistance;
- breathability;
- environmental Safety;
- parameters of waterproofing properties;
- life time.
Wall insulation for an apartment should have high parameters for all these characteristics. And in order to know what is the best way to insulate the walls in the apartment from the inside, you need to know what options are available for this.
Mineral wool
A budget option that has long been used in construction. It has high thermal insulation, vapor and air permeability, but this material is afraid of moisture. The structure of the mineral wool has a high porosity, which absorbs any water into itself. This leads to a set of masses of material, because of which it simply will not be able to continue to stay on the wall. Besides high humidity- an excellent environment for the development of mold and fungus.
Mineral wool During the installation process, a frame is created from special guides, which will serve as "cells" for laying the layers. Such a process does not require much effort and time. But mineral wool tends to deform, so after 10-15 years it is recommended to remove the top coat and renew the insulation.
Styrofoam
The material is made of expanded polystyrene, which is highly resistant to moisture, while allowing concrete walls"breathe". The price is quite affordable, so many people use it for insulation.
Among the shortcomings it is worth noting:
- poor water permeability - the accumulation of moisture leads to the destruction of the walls, so polystyrene foam is not used to decorate wooden walls;
- easy flammability.
Styrofoam But such material lasts much longer than the previous version.
Expanded polystyrene is distinguished by high rates of thermal insulation properties, due to which it is possible to use it for warming not only internal, but also external walls. The fixation of the material is carried out using a special glue.
Extruded polystyrene foam
This heater is a more advanced version of the previous version. It has a more elastic and flexible structure, due to which installation is greatly facilitated. This insulation is well tolerated by any treatment. It also has good moisture resistance, light weight and affordable price.
Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex" Among the minuses, it is worth highlighting the complexity of joining the sheets. But modern manufacturers have managed to alleviate this moment - there are plates on sale where the end sides are designed in the form of grooves. Thus, the fitting of elements during the installation process is greatly simplified. Fixing to the wall is carried out with glue or by creating a metal frame.
Styrofoam
Another a budget option wall insulation. High thermal insulation properties material is ensured by the presence of gas (more than 95%). It also has high waterproofing, soundproofing and low flammability. In addition, its cost is quite affordable for everyone.
Styrofoam can be insulated, both external and internal walls. Therefore, it is often used not only in private houses, but also in multi-apartment buildings.
Foam insulation Keramoizol
This option appeared on construction market relatively not so long ago. Unlike previous heaters, keramoizol is sold in containers, and not in slabs or rolls. This mixture is sold in different volumes.
Keramoizol is convenient to apply, as it does not require the creation of frames and other fixing bases. At the same time, such a heater has good thermal insulation, waterproof and vapor tight. The liquid structure allows maximum processing of the walls without worrying about joints and corner joints.
Keramoizol for wall treatment During installation, several layers are required. Experts recommend covering the freezing wall at least 6 times to maximize thermal insulation. The imposition of each subsequent layer is perpendicular to the previous one. The application process may take longer than the installation of foam. But if we take into account the efforts to create a frame, then this moment becomes equal.
The only disadvantage of keramoizol is the high price.
Penoizol
This is one of the varieties of polyurethane, which is applied to the walls in the form of foam. The highest efficiency is manifested in the insulation of brick walls. The mixture quickly hardens, while reliably sealing any joints and holes in the surface. The absence of air in the foam ensures reliable processing seams and joints.
Application of liquid insulation Penoizol has high warmth and waterproofing, is non-flammable and does not emit any toxins during operation. One of the advantages of this heater is the speed of work. True, after the foam has completely dried, it will be necessary to further level the surface, since it does not harden evenly, acquiring a relief structure.
Astratek
This insulation has the form of a suspension in which there are solid components from various polymers. To process the wall here you will need an airbrush or a paint brush. In the first case, there are additional costs, although such a tool saves time and effort. For full insulation, you will need to apply a layer of 1 cm, which in its properties will correspond to a layer of 50 cm of mineral wool.
Liquid thermal insulation Astratek Such material is convenient in that it does not “eat up” the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room. In addition, with the right kneading, a homogeneous structure will allow you to immediately proceed to the finishing design. Therefore, Astratek is often used for wallpaper, as it does not require additional alignment. But for the sake of justice, it is worth saying that such a heater is expensive, therefore, for large areas it is not often used.
Having familiarized yourself with all the pros and cons of each heater, it becomes not so difficult to make a choice of how you can insulate the walls from the inside in the apartment.
wall insulation process
Regardless of the type of insulation, the installation process has mandatory steps. The service life of the material depends on the quality of their implementation. temperature regime in the apartment.
Preparation
One of the important points is the preparation of the walls for the installation of insulation. First of all, the old coating is removed from all surfaces. Wallpaper is easy to remove if you first sprinkle it with water, and then use a spatula to remove the paper from the walls. If even the smallest particles remain, this can prevent the insulation from fully performing its functions.
If the wall has irregularities, then it will need to be leveled. This requirement can be met with putty or drywall. But in last case, the material can become already, a kind of additional insulation. This approach is used for significant wall defects (irregularities of more than 1 cm) and it requires additional financial investments, since drywall is attached only to a metal frame.
After the wall is cleaned and the putty dries completely, it is treated with a special antiseptic solution. This layer provides protection against mold and mildew in the future. There are different mixtures, each of which has its own application method. Manufacturers indicate instructions for use on the package with the mixture, so there will be no problems with mixing. Next, the surface is covered with a primer in two layers - each subsequent one is applied after the previous one dries.
An important point is the vapor barrier. by the most the best option considered polyethylene High Quality. Fixation can occur with a construction stapler, glue or foil tape. Also, all joints are treated with adhesive tape in order to achieve complete insulation.
Before insulating the wall in corner apartment, you need to process the connection points with the overlap and the corners from the inside. In such areas, a heat and vapor barrier is applied. Then they can be masked with a box or false column.
Installation
For high-quality insulation, you will need to make a “pie”. In this case it will be several layers. various materials, each with its own purpose. Depending on what material was chosen for insulation, installation can be carried out using glue or creating a frame.
The method of fastening the insulation directly depends on the finishing of the walls. Therefore, warming in the room can occur in one of the following ways:
- Frame. Use when there is no need for plastering walls. This approach allows you to save fragile insulation (for example, foam) from mechanical damage. To create a base, wooden bars (previously treated with an antiseptic) or a metal profile may be suitable. For fixing on the surface, dowels or self-tapping screws are used. The distance between the posts should be equal to the width of the material. If the insulation has a dense structure, then the cell should be exactly 50 cm smaller than the dimensions of the plate or roll. When soft material, you will need to reduce the cell size by 1.5-2 cm. As soon as the insulation is laid in the gaps, all joints are processed mounting foam. After it dries, you will need to remove all its excess with an ordinary or stationery knife. Next comes the finishing touches.
Mineral wool installation - Glue. This type fastening requires careful preparation walls, which includes alignment. All cracks are treated with putty, and if there are protrusions, they must be chipped off, and such places are sealed with mortar. To apply the adhesive, you will need a notched trowel. The solution is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, which is indicated on the package. The mixture is applied to the wall and to the insulation, after which the material is pressed tightly against the wall. The glue dries for 2-3 days, depending on the manufacturer, after which it will be necessary to additionally fix the insulation with the help of umbrella dowels.
Fixing insulation with glue Important! If the work is carried out on glue, then the wall is pre-marked. This will allow for a neat installation. You should not immediately cover the entire surface with the mixture, as it will have time to dry before one side of the wall is insulated.
Fixation with glue is acceptable in cases where insulation is carried out using foam, wood fiber, foam or foil insulation. For other materials, a frame system can be used.
Final works
After the insulation is fixed on the walls, you can proceed to the final stage. At the end of the installation, hydro and vapor protection is fixed on top of the material. The film is attached using special rails or a construction stapler. The edges should go to adjacent surfaces and be fixed with a sealant.
After all the stages, the walls are ready for final finishing. If you plan to glue wallpaper or use decorative tiles, then in this case you still need to create a drywall base. Usually when working with plates, on final stage they are plastered and pasted over with a reinforcing mesh, on top of which gypsum mixture. After plastering and stripping, the wall is ready for decorative processing - painting, wallpapering or tiling, etc.
Plasterboard leveling is an easy undertaking. But it requires the implementation of all stages, especially with regard to the preparation of the walls. If the base is not treated appropriately, then very soon condensate will appear inside the “pie”, which will begin to destroy the insulation from the inside. Therefore, it is better to spend energy and money on preparation once, but then spend cold winters in a warm apartment.
High heating costs and the unwillingness of the owner of the house to insulate the structure of the building from the outside, force residents to look for other solutions. One of them is the insulation of the apartment from the inside, thereby reducing the usable space. We offer a way to insulate an apartment from the inside using insulating boards with glass wool and Multipor mineral boards.
Warming the apartment from the inside - what you need to know
You will learn:
- what factors should be taken into account when designing and implementing thermal insulation inside the dwelling;
- how to properly install thermal insulation from the inside;
- properties and application of insulating boards.
For apartment users, the most important thing is comfort and low heating bills, and therefore, if there is no solution for thermal insulation of the building from the outside, only decision- insulate external walls apartments from the inside. However, you should be aware that, in accordance with the laws of building physics, insulation from the inside is not entirely optimal solution. When installing insulation on inner wall There are several important factors to consider:
- In the case of wall insulation from the inside, it will not help to avoid temperature bridges.
- outer wall (solid brick walls) on cold side barriers are exposed to moisture, which can cause water to freeze in cracks in the wall.
- Internal insulation must be carefully thought out and implemented, and installed only in the freezing parts of the wall.
How to insulate an apartment from the inside - step by step instructions
Before proceeding with the thermal insulation of the walls, you must remove all elements, such as wall-mounted radiators, that should not be under the insulation layer. For good thermal insulation and simple and quick installation, for wall insulation, it is better to use sheet glass wool or mineral wool, laid in a frame of profiles and covered with drywall sheets.
In case of internal thermal insulation, windows should also be replaced, (if they require replacement) choosing a model with better insulation parameters.
The first step is to install the wall profiles. On the picture finished wall for laying wall thermal insulation boards.
Use vapor barrier layers over the profiles. To avoid problems with fixing drywall in the corner, the main wall is sheathed first, after which the corner frame profile is mounted.
To avoid cooling of the corners, install the insulation perpendicular to the insulated wall.
Leave a margin of vapor barrier in the corner to connect it to the corner frame insulation.
The corner part of the wall should be insulated from 60 to 100 cm in length. In addition, the floor and ceiling must be insulated with a vapor barrier.
Tightly cover the frame of the profile and mineral wool with a vapor barrier, making overlaps on the ceiling, floor and walls. Use double-sided adhesive tape to seal the vapor barrier to the wall and floor.
To insulate the building from the inside, energy-saving mineral wool insulation with a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.030 W/(mx°C) is recommended, which has more than 20% greater insulating power compared to other materials used in construction and intended for use in areas requiring a thin layer isolation.
Wall insulation with Multipor mineral boards
Multipor is honeycomb insulating material made from sand, lime and water. This is an environmentally friendly material, prevents the formation of mold, its thermal conductivity is 0.045 W / (mx ° C).
Preparation and isolation of the wall surface
Before starting work, thoroughly clean the surface of the walls from residues old plaster and paints. The floor should be covered with a film and fixed to the wall with electrical tape. A damper tape is laid on the film along the perimeter of the angle between the wall and the floor.
Preparation of the solution for application to the surface of the block
Prepare the solution by adding the appropriate amount of water according to the instructions, and then mix with a mixer until the consistency of thick sour cream.
The finished solution is distributed over the entire surface of the block using a notched trowel.
Fixing the block to the wall
At correct application, the mortar should have a thickness of approximately 8-10 mm over the entire surface of the block.
Carefully press the block against the wall, moving it close to the previous block. Check with a level that the blocks are fixed evenly.
Avoid vertical and horizontal seams flush with the edge of the corner.
Insulate part of the ceiling to avoid thermal bridges
If you have the last floor, then the ceiling should also be insulated. In the event that you have a cold corner, then we warm it 60-100 cm from the corner.
Alignment and finishing of walls
These plates are easy to grind, you can easily remove any irregularities.
Install perforated corners on all slopes using crack protection mesh. Also draw a grid over the entire area of the blocks.
