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Insulation of the grooves of a wooden house. How to insulate a wooden house from the outside. Proper insulation of a wooden house from the outside

Log houses are the warmest and most environmentally friendly. Wooden walls perfectly retain and accumulate heat and regulate the level of humidity. On every corner we hear that a wooden wall with a thickness of only 240 mm has the same thermal conductivity as Brick wall 1 m thick. Impressive, right? But there are situations when they built or bought a new log house, lived in it, and with the onset of the first serious cold weather, they realized that the house was cool and there were drafts. Then we seriously think about the insulation of the building, even to the detriment of beauty. But there may be more banal situations: they bought an old wooden house, which is already rather “worn out” and requires serious measures for warming. So the serious question arises, how to perform insulation log house what materials can be used, and what absolutely cannot be done.

Why is it cold in a log house - a little theory

What are the most common problems faced by log house owners who complain that it is cold in winter? Firstly, these are drafts in the rooms. Secondly, it blows on the legs. Thirdly, the house cools down quickly if the heating is turned off. Fourth, the walls are too cold. And many related nuances, from which it is concluded that the house must be urgently insulated, and it is imperative to start from the floor, since it is the coldest. Let's see what happens in the room when it is heated.

Imagine that we have a log house that we heat with some kind of heat source. What we have involved in heat transfer: heat source, air, ceiling, walls and floor. How does this happen? Recall the school physics course. Heating up from the heat source, the air rushes up - to the ceiling. Resting against the surface of the ceiling, it spreads over it, giving off heat and cooling. As a result, we get the ceiling - the warmest surface in the room. Further, the air flow reaches the walls and descends along them. Since our walls are much colder than the ceiling, the air cools much faster and its speed increases. Now the air has already reached the floor, having fairly accelerated, and rushes along it at such a speed that an illusion of such a strong cold draft is created, as if there is no floor, and you are standing right on the snow.

If you place a heat source near the inner walls, as is usually done by heating with a fireplace or a portable radiator, then the heat transfer rate increases significantly. There is a constant draft in the room, it turns out that we ourselves are to blame for the fact that it is cold in the house.

No wonder there are norms that heating radiators should be located under the windows. The outer walls are initially the coldest, in contrast to the inner ones, which are quite inert. If a heat source is located near outer wall, then the air will rise up, then again fall on the walls, but now not at such a speed and will not cool so quickly. After all internal walls quite warm, so passing them, the air will not be cooled too much. And going down outer walls, it will rest against the heat source again, where it will heat up and rise up. As a result: the room warms up faster, the structures retain heat better, as it accumulates rather than wasted.

What you need to check to eliminate unnecessary heat loss:

1. Ceiling. The very first outpost to check for leaks, as up to 70% of heat can escape through it. Be sure to insulate the attic or attic floor to keep the heat inside.
2. Walls. The second outpost is the outer walls and everything that is in them: windows, doors, etc. Wrong installed windows and doors are the scourge of log houses. Through them, the lion's share of heat can go away, without even having time to heat the room. Immediately from the radiator and into the gap under / above the window. Plus, do not forget to check whether the walls are carefully caulked, maybe cracks have already formed somewhere.
3. Floor. The last thing that can be a source of cold is the floor. It should be checked for serviceability and insulated in a standard way. Also for the winter it is worth reducing the ventilation of the underground, blocking most of the air.

I would also like to note that in order to make the heating of a log house better, it is possible to equip the house with “warm floors”, in addition to existing system heating. Then warm air will be distributed more evenly throughout the room, due to which drafts near the floor will disappear and the house will cool more slowly.

By the way, too thin walls can also cause cold in the house. For example, for a climate with a cold harsh winter, but low humidity, walls with a thickness of 200 - 240 mm are sufficient. But for regions with wet winters, even if the temperature does not fall below -20 ° C, it is advisable to use logs with a diameter of at least 400 mm, and preferably 480 mm. Such regions, for example, include Moscow and the Moscow region, St. Petersburg and Leningrad region. Be sure to take this into account when developing a log house project so that it does not hurt excruciatingly later.

What materials can be used to insulate a log house

The standard procedure for insulating a log house includes insulating the ceiling or attic, caulking walls, and insulating windows and door frames and floor insulation. If everything is done correctly, then no additional measures will be needed.

Taking into account the fact that log houses are built in order to create a dwelling from natural environmentally friendly materials, it would be foolish to use polystyrene for insulation. Then all meaning is lost.

For attic insulation log house can be used sawdust, ecowool(cellulose cotton), seaweed, straw. In extreme cases, you can insulate mineral wool .

Caulker walls produce only natural materials: moss, tow, hemp, jute, flax-based tape heaters And jute. The main requirement for the material is that it must have properties similar to wood.

For wooden floor insulation on logs you can use natural backfill materials, and you can mineral wool in rolls. And here concrete floor will require a denser material, suitable polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, cork And basalt wool in slabs with a density of more than 160 kg/m3.

If, after all the standard procedures, the house is cold, maybe because the thickness of the logs was chosen incorrectly, maybe the house is already very old, or maybe the heating was calculated incorrectly, and you decided that without such a procedure as warming the walls of a log house , you can not do, then you should know some of the nuances.

Material that can be insulated log walls, should have the following properties:

• To be vapor-permeable on a par with wood or to a greater extent if it is laid outside the building.
• Be moisture resistant so as not to accumulate moisture, which can lead to rotting of the tree.
• Be fireproof and resistant to the appearance of pathogenic fungi.
• It is easy to pass air.
• Have a loose enough structure to fit snugly against a rounded log wall and leave no gaps.

Considering all of the above, to insulate a log house from the outside, you can use:

• Ecowool.

• Mineral wool (although it is not natural, it is easy to install and publicly available).
• Sawdust or sawdust-granules (filling material).
• Expanded clay (filling material).

The tree is unusual construction material. It not only “breathes”, but is also a kind of air recuperator. And if someone will assure you that the vapor permeability of wood across the fibers is slightly greater than that of reinforced concrete, know that you can object. Entering the thickness of the wood across the fibers, then the air is distributed along the fibers and exits through the end. In other words, the tree "breathes" with its ends.

It is precisely because the wooden walls are “living” that the following materials cannot be used:

• Styrofoam.
• Extruded polystyrene foam.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Mounting foam for sealing gaps.
• Sealants.

Using vapor barrier materials will cause the wood to rot, or if you protect it from the inside with a vapor barrier, you will turn a wooden house into a thermos. In this case, the whole point of building a house from a log will be lost. But the choice is still yours.

How to insulate a log house from the outside

As we have already found out, it is necessary to insulate the walls of a log house only when all other measures for insulation have not brought the desired result.

If you are interested in the question of how to properly insulate a log house from the outside or from the inside, then here is a definite answer for you - outside. This is due to the properties of the tree to breathe, accumulate moisture and give it away. In the case of an external location of the insulation, air and moisture will freely exit the tree and ventilate.

You can start warming only a year and a half after the completion of the construction, when the log house sits down.

Log wall caulk

Even if you have already made the final decision to insulate the house, the first step is to carefully caulk it. We examine all the walls for visible cracks. Then, in calm weather, we pass through the house with a candle, holding it close to the walls. If the flame leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place from which it blows in winter.

One of the most effective ways search for cracks in the logs - in winter, when the house is heated, it is necessary to go around and inspect all the walls. If you notice frost, it is sometimes also called a “bunny”, which means that heat is leaking from the room in this place.

Caulking should be done in dry, warm weather, using tow, jute, hemp or roll insulation. We put the material in the gap between the crowns and push it with a special tool - a caulk.

Ventilated facade device

Insulation of a log house from the outside is carried out by installing a ventilated facade. This design allows the wooden wall to "breathe" and release moisture.

First, we treat the walls with an antiseptic and flame retardant to protect the tree from fire and mold. On top of the walls we fill the crate, which will hold the insulation. To do this, we use a bar with a section of 50 mm. We fill vertically with a step equal to the width of the insulation boards minus 2 - 3 cm.

As a heater, we will use mineral wool in slabs with a density of 35 - 50 kg / m3, 50 mm thick.

Important! When installing insulation on a log wall, we encounter some inconvenience. The fact is that the wall is uneven, laying the insulation close without gaps is almost impossible. Therefore, we put insulation into the gaps (openings) between the wall and the battens of the crate. To do this, you can use "Basaltin" in rolls or interventional insulation - jute, lnovatin.

We insert mineral wool slabs between the crate, pushing them tightly into the opening. We do this from the bottom up.

On top of the insulation we mount a windproof waterproofing superdiffusion membrane. It must have a vapor permeability equal to at least 1400 g/m2 per day or higher.

Important! Properly selected wind protection for a ventilated log wall facade is almost the most important thing in insulation. This membrane will not allow moisture and wind to pass through from the outside into the thickness of the insulation and walls, but at the same time it will release moisture and air from the inside to the outside, thus giving the walls the opportunity to “breathe”.

On top of the windshield we stuff a crate of 50 mm bars. We install siding on the crate. It could be vinyl siding imitating a tree, or you can use a block house, then the wall will have the same log profile as the real one.

For the entire thickness of the crate (50 mm), a ventilation gap is formed between the membrane and the facade. Air vents must be provided at the top and bottom so that air can circulate freely.

How to insulate a log house from the inside

The option of warming the house inside must be considered before performing a ventilated facade. Perhaps standard insulation measures will be enough, and you won’t have to spoil appearance walls.

The following procedures can be attributed to the insulation of a log house from the inside: insulation of the floor, ceiling, roof and walls. Moreover, experts are categorically against installing insulation inside the walls, since in this case the tree will dampen and rot.

Ceiling and roof insulation

The first thing, as soon as they found that it was cold in the house, we insulated the ceiling and roof.

If the house is one-story with an attic, then we lay a waterproofing film on the attic floor, pour insulation on top with a layer of 150 to 250 mm. It can be ecowool, sawdust, seaweed or ordinary mineral or glass wool in rolls. It is not necessary to cover the heater. From above, you can lay boards for ease of movement around the attic, but you do not need to equip the floor.

If the house has an attic floor instead of an attic, then it is necessary to insulate both the ceiling between the floors and the roof slope. It is enough to lay 50 - 100 mm of insulation (any) in the ceiling. If the attic floor is wooden, then we fill up the insulation between the lags. If the floor is concrete, then we use basalt wool in slabs or, in extreme cases, foam. To insulate the roof slope, we lay a waterproofing film directly under the roof, then lay the insulation (mineral wool) with a layer of 150 - 200 mm. We lay a vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation so that the material is not saturated with moisture from the room. We mount the crate and trim for the attic.

The above procedures should be enough to make the house warmer.

Insulation of the walls of a log house

Let's go to the walls. Since it is impossible to mount insulation inside log walls, what we can do is to caulk well from the inside, insulate all window and door openings.

To insulate openings, we use rolled interventional insulation or, in extreme cases, mineral wool, but in no case do we blow out the cracks with mounting foam, it will quickly become unusable, since the walls of a log house are constantly in motion, and foam is a non-plastic material.

To finish the walls of a log house from the inside, you can upholster them wooden clapboard. In this case, the insulation between the wall and the finish cannot be mounted. The house will become a little warmer due to the fact that the wall will have a slightly greater thickness, as well as air gaps from the side of the heated room between the flat lining and the curved surface of the log walls.

Insulation of the floor of a log house

In order for the floor in a wooden house to be warm, it must be equipped, observing the entire technology of laying the floor on the ground. Be sure to perform backfilling, waterproofing and insulation. If the floor is wooden, we lay insulation between the lags with a layer of 100 - 150 mm. Top rough and finish floor.

If the floor is concrete, then between the layer of "lean" concrete and the main layer we lay polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam in slabs with a thickness of 50 - 80 mm.

Before insulating a log house with a ventilated facade, equip the house with a “warm floor” system. Perhaps this will be more than enough to ensure a comfortable stay in it. Then you don’t have to sew up beautiful log walls, because such houses are being built because of their primitive beauty. What's the use of covering the walls with siding?

Insulation of a log house is a whole range of measures. If everything is done correctly, start from the ceiling and roof, then caulk the walls well, insulate the windows and doors, the floor, there will be no need to sheathe the house from the outside. If this does not help, there is another way to keep warm in log house, which is not described here, is to build glazed veranda from the very cold side at home, thereby expanding the area and forming an air barrier.

A wooden house is considered the warmest, most environmentally friendly and comfortable to live in, mainly due to the walls that "breathe" and perfectly retain heat inside the building.

However, not always the thickness wooden walls is enough to resist severe frosts. In this case, they resort to external, internal or combined insulation, and in order to thermal insulation layer did not get wet from condensate and did not lose its properties, in the "pie" of the walls wooden house install vapor barrier.

Vapor barrier in the insulation system of a wooden house

Regardless of whether it is decided to insulate a wooden house from the inside or outside, a vapor barrier film must be present in the “pie” of insulated walls. It is installed either between a layer of heat insulator and inner lining premises in case internal insulation, or between the heat insulator and bearing wall at home during the installation of external insulation. The main function of the vapor barrier is to prevent the thermal insulation layer from getting wet.

Exterior insulation of a wooden house

Insulation of the house from the outside begins with the treatment of walls with antiseptics that prevent damage to wood by rot, mold, fungus, woodworms, and flame retardants to improve fire performance the buildings.

Slots and gaps in wooden walls made of timber, logs, sandwich panels must be sealed with sealant or caulked with jute fiber.

After that, you can start arranging the crate by fixing 50 × 50 mm or 50 × 100 mm bars on the plane of the walls with self-tapping screws - the size of the rail is selected depending on the number of layers of the heat insulator.

The crate is mounted in the form of horizontal or vertical guides with a step that practically corresponds to the width of the heat-insulating material - 1 cm less so that it “sits” more tightly in its place.

Before installing the insulation, a vapor barrier film must be installed on top of the crate - it is best if it is a diffuse wind and vapor barrier membrane, for example, Ondutis A100, A120 or SA130. It will allow air to pass from the interior of the house to the outside, but it will retain moisture and prevent it from soaking into the insulation layer, while maintaining its heat-insulating properties.

After fixing the vapor barrier on the crate using a construction stapler, they proceed to laying the insulation boards between the bars, additionally fixing them with umbrella dowels to the walls. It is necessary to install a waterproofing film on top of the heat-insulating layer, which will protect it from moisture penetrating from the outside, but at the same time take out small amounts of condensate that have fallen into the insulation.

At the final stage of warming a wooden house, rails are mounted for the installation of cladding - they serve not only as a facade frame, but also form a ventilation gap necessary to ventilate the heat insulator. Cast finishing facing wooden facades are most often used siding, lining, block house.

Internal insulation of a house made of wood

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is almost never practiced, as this can disrupt the microclimate and increase the humidity in it. indoor areas, and in addition - significantly reduce the living space. If the decision to insulate from the inside was nevertheless made, then it is necessary to perform a vapor barrier - to lay an anti-condensate membrane between the thermal insulation layer and the inner lining.

If it is not recommended to insulate a house made of timber or a log house from the inside, then frame wooden houses usually protect against cold along the inner surfaces of the walls, using, for example, Ondutis RS, B (R70) films as a vapor barrier.

Insulation materials for home insulation

Most good option heat insulator for wooden houses basalt (mineral) or fiberglass wool is considered. It's ecological pure species insulation in the form of plates or rolls, which significantly increase the heat-saving parameters of the building and reliably insulate its walls both from the inside and outside.

Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene are almost never used to insulate the walls of wooden houses - moisture and vapor-tight materials that create the effect of a “thermos” inside the building, preventing full air exchange between inner space at home and external environment. In addition, unlike mineral wool, which does not support combustion, polymer-based heaters evaporate when heated. harmful substances, and when ignited, they melt, exuding thick toxic smoke.

A wooden house attracts many owners due to its ability to "breathe" and good thermal insulation properties. But often people think about warming their homes, especially when the harsh winter comes.

In addition, the use of additional insulation of wooden walls allows you to reduce heating bills and increase the lifespan of a tree. Then the question arises - how to carry out the insulation of a wooden house from the outside in a quality and correct way.

External insulation as opposed to internal way involves the preservation of the area of ​​the house space. It also contributes to the formation of condensate in the ventilated area. As a result, in winter, the log house does not lend itself to freezing, and in summer season doesn't rot.

But in order to achieve such an effect of a wooden house, the following rules must be observed:

• all work should be carried out in dry weather, when there is no dampness on the walls;
• thermal insulation is carried out on a clean repaired area that does not contain moss and moldy areas;
• use a steam and layer on both sides of the insulating material;
• how to insulate a wooden house is decided by the owner himself, but it is worth focusing on vapor-permeable products;
• arrange a ventilated space between the finishing and insulating elements.

Before starting the insulation of the walls, it is worth checking their surface for the presence of bark beetles, which can subsequently destroy the surface of a wooden house both outside and inside. Carrying out work on the insulation of an old dwelling, it is possible to obtain additional heat insulation. You can also give an old wooden house a new look and reduce heating costs.

Material options

Saving heat inside the home and the duration of the operation of the house largely depend on the choice of material. The market for building materials and materials offers a wide range of products to insulate walls.

Expanded polystyrene (foam)

The use of such material on the outer walls of a wooden house is due to its advantages:

• strength;
• does not give in to rotting and influence of water;
• favors the preservation of heat, not reacting to temperature changes;
• ease of installation;
• incombustibility;
• long service life.

Insulation of the house with foam plastic also has several disadvantages:

• they can insulate dwellings from a bar when the walls are even, and the insulation of a log house is complicated due to the construction of a ventilated facade;
• high price of products;
• low permeability for air masses, which leads to the effect of a "greenhouse";
• rodents love it.

This material is better for floor insulation in a log cabin or attic floor. Water resistance does not imply this case use of a waterproofing layer. But there is an exception if you want to apply material for a wooden floor in a bathroom or kitchen.

A variety of expanded polystyrene is its sprayed form, which allows you to quickly insulate the desired surface. When using sprayed products, it is worth noting that after prolonged use it is difficult to separate them from the surface of the walls.

Therefore, repairing the insulated area will not work. But such materials are used to keep warm in a house with an old floor. In this case, the material is applied without dismantling the floors. Moreover, the composition applied on top additionally strengthens the base.

Styrofoam

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside with polystyrene foam, if you want to preserve the property of wood to conduct air. In this case, this will not work. After all, this type of insulation is characterized by the absence of air transmission.

And also other negative consequences are possible if you want to insulate the facade of a wooden house with this material:

• increases the likelihood of fire due to the flammability of the foam elements;
• wall insulation from the outside can be carried out for a long time and of poor quality, since the foam does not have high strength;
• additional waterproofing of the insulating material will be required.

Styrofoam consists of small balls resistant to water. But between them there are gaps that can accumulate water. Subsequently, the water freezes and expands, causing the foam boards to crumble.

Therefore, it is better not to use foam with outer side log building. But with the help of it you can insulate the floor in a wooden house. More foam products are attached to attic floors wooden houses and other buildings.

Warming a wooden house with mineral wool is considered a popular way. This is justified by its advantages:

• the insulation scheme is easy to install;
• low cost;
• the ability to remove water vapor;
• duration of operation;
• does not deform under temperature changes;
• incombustibility.

When the owner decides to insulate an old wooden house, it is worth considering that mineral wool quickly absorbs moisture. This can lead to rapid decay of a building that is no longer new. Therefore, it is important to use waterproofing agents.

Mineral wool has several varieties: slag, stone, glass wool, ecowool. They differ technical specifications and manufacturing methods. But they are considered acceptable for thermal insulation of walls.

When installing mineral wool, work should be carried out using gloves and goggles, as the material causes irritation. Also, inhalation should be avoided.

The use of ecowool when insulating a wooden house from the outside, unlike other types of wadded material, helps to maintain thermal insulation when water enters. This is based on the property of ecowool to absorb moisture and then give it away.

To properly insulate with such a product, you should use special installations for uniform distribution. But this technology is expensive.

Thus, there is an answer to the question of what is the best way to insulate a wooden house. This is to apply mineral wool. After all, this material has good vapor permeability, has a small weight and allows the tree to "breathe".

The material is considered easy to install, since anyone can insulate a wooden house from the outside with the help of such a product. But before insulating a wooden house, you need to purchase insulation and prepare a structure from the outside for its location.

Warming technology

The procedure for wall insulation includes several stages. It is important to go through all the steps and follow the recommendations to obtain high-quality insulation. Indeed, in the future, the log house should retain heat for a long time.

Surface preparation

The use of mineral wool outside involves preliminary cleaning of the surface and cutting off protruding areas. The next step is to close holes, gaps, crevices with polyurethane foam. After the applied foam has dried, remove the remnants of the product with a knife. After that, you need to process the outer surface special formulations. These are flame retardants and antiseptics.

When choosing special processing compounds, it is necessary to take into account the ability to penetrate deep into the structure of the tree. But at the same time, the composition should not cover the pores intended for the passage of air.

All transactions for preliminary preparation held in dry weather.

Laying a vapor barrier

The vapor barrier layer is designed to self-regulate the microclimate of the tree and simultaneously protect it from water. How to properly lay this layer. The first step is to choose the right product.

The following vapor barrier products are sold on the market:

• isospan;
• polyethylene;
• ruberoid.

When choosing, it must be borne in mind that the product must pass air so that the tree does not succumb to decay. Therefore, it is better not to use polyethylene products.

Can vapor barrier material mounted on top of the wall surface using stapler brackets. But if available uneven surfaces it is better to equip the crate on which the vapor barrier will be attached. And also the constructed structure creates a ventilation space. For the construction, slats with a minimum width of 2 cm are selected. The gap between the slats is 1 m.

After arranging the crate, a vapor barrier is laid, fixed with a stapler. The joints of the material are sealed with adhesive tape.

Material laying

Mineral wool is laid on the vapor barrier layer. But first, it is necessary to make a frame crate for it. Reiki is selected with a size of 40x100 mm. The basic rule of the frame is that the width of the groove formed should be less than the width of the plate used (approximately 15 mm).

When choosing metal slats or wooden bars, it is better to choose the latter. This is due to the fact that the wooden house is insulated. To fasten the frame, use nails to ensure the “walking” of the tree.

After arranging the frame, the stage of laying the cotton material begins:

• Mineral wool is available in the form of slabs or rolls. Roll material cut with a knife into the necessary elements.
• When laid on flat surfaces mineral wool on top does not need to be fixed. If the plates are mounted on sloping sections or recesses, then the material is fixed with anchor nails.
• Laying is done from the bottom up.
• When laying two layers of insulation, the second layer should be placed offset, avoiding overlapping joints.

In case of improper installation, the material can be easily dismantled.

Location of waterproofing

The waterproofing layer is designed to prevent moisture from entering the structure. For this, a special windproof membrane is selected. The use of polyethylene film is impractical due to the fact that it will allow water to accumulate in the insulation.

Please note: fit in accordance with the instructions.

The membrane is attached with a stapler or nails. Docking areas are sealed with adhesive tape. A counter-lattice is superimposed on top of the membrane, which makes it possible to achieve air ventilation. The width between the waterproofing and the facade to be installed is at least 5 cm.

All work on the insulation of the material is completed by installing facing coating. Mineral wool is suitable for outside insulation under siding, lining or brick. In the case of repairs, the removal and renewal of the material is easy.

Other insulation materials can be used on the basement or foundation, which is located above the ground.

Now many will know how to insulate the facade of the house. With a competent approach, the warmth of a wooden house will not come out, but will remain inside. Moreover, all the work can be done by hand.

In anticipation winter cold It is desirable to insulate your home. A log house or a house made of wood, which is durable in itself, needs to be insulated in two cases:
1. If cracks and cracks appeared in the log house.
2. If the building is located in an area where severe climatic conditions.
Insulating a house from the outside is easy if you approach this activity wisely. This means that it is necessary to draw up an approximate scheme of actions. In connection with the choice of material with which you will insulate the house, a plan for fixing it on the facade is included in the scheme. As heaters it is used: polyfoam, polyfoam or mineral wool.
Read about it at this link.

Preparing the house outside for insulation

Having decided on the material, you can begin preparing for the main work. First, the surface should be treated for subsequent laying of the material. If you need to remove the old plaque of plaster, then it is scraped off close to the base. As a result, it should appear smooth surface masonry made of bricks, blocks or wood. Particular attention should be paid to the surface primer.
If there are noticeable distortions in the levels on the surface, that is, protrusions or holes of more than 1-2 cm, they must be covered with a solution or cut off to the required level. For priming, it is better to choose a solution with deep penetration. Of course, before starting work, it is necessary to remove the remaining dirt. In order to evenly lay a layer of insulation, which should not interfere with further work on plastering or surface cladding with bricks, beacons and plumb lines should be installed in advance. This device will mark the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, which will make installation easier.


Preparing the walls of the house

Technology Description:
1. All decorative elements should be removed from the facade - cornices, platbands, shutters, and so on.
2. Conduct a vapor barrier using one of the following materials: bituminous roofing felt, aluminum foil, pvc film, polyethylene film. First, the material cut into strips is fixed on the staples. Then it is overlapped, not less than 5 or 10 cm, for tightness. The joints between the strips should be glued with self-adhesive tape.
Important! When vapor barrier it is necessary to leave gaps in the material, but this does not apply to houses with a rounded tree, since air is already circulating in the log house.
Holes are holes with a diameter of 2 cm. They are made at the bottom and at the top of the wall. Between them should remain 20-100 cm.

Warming the house outside with mineral wool

1. For laying mineral wool, we make a structure - a double frame. It is made from spruce or pine planks. On the end load-bearing frame V vertical position planks are fixed. Their width is ½ of the thickness of the thermal insulation, and their thickness is 3.8-5 cm. Between the slats there should not be less than 53 and more than 63 cm, since the mineral wool is 50-60 cm thick. This is done in order not to was to cut this cotton wool.
2. The next heat-insulating layer consists of mineral or glass wool 5-6 cm wide. The insulation layers should be fastened close to one another and so that they do not touch at the junction.
3. Wind insulation is made on the basis of polyethylene material, which has a powerful vapor permeability. Theoretically, it is possible to use bituminous roofing material, but the film is more effective. A layer of film is laid with an overlap (5-10 cm), attaching to a double frame with staples. In places of docking, it must be glued with a “self-adhesive”.

Warming the house outside with mineral wool

4. And again we make a double frame using impregnated wooden planks. The material is similar: pine or spruce. Size: 2.5-3.2 cm in thickness, 5 cm in width. They are fixed in a vertical position, making gaps of 50-60 cm, so that there is room for air circulation. Wouldn't hurt to attach to them metal mesh, which perfectly protects against the penetration of any living creatures.
5. Fasten facade material. The thickness of the boards is 2.5 cm. When choosing a material, one must take into account its resistance to temperature extremes and external influences. Preferably these types: larch, oak and pine. It is possible and necessary to process the boards before laying from dampness. The fastening of the planks can be in any direction according to the design of the house.
Important! It would be good to change the platbands after insulation, since a layer has formed that prevents their installation. door blocks also require replacement.

Insulation of the house outside with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam is carried out in the same way as with mineral wool. First, a frame is erected, protected from the wind from the outside. Material solution is filled frame structure in the wall - next to the film. Docking with the wall is formed tightly, which indicates the best thermal insulation. It should be noted that according to modern technologies construction, polyurethane foam is more often used for insulation of attics and roof slopes. This is due to the fact that in a vertical position it is more difficult to shape the insulation layer, since in itself it is a foam material.

Facing the building after the completion of insulation

After the thermal insulation of the house, its facades should be revetted without fail. Despite the chosen thermal insulation, for cladding they usually prefer:
Brick;
Siding;
Block house.

Starting the cladding, it is required to expand the foundation of the house. Otherwise, under the pressure of the gravity of the cladding, mixing is likely. This technique is widely used when installing heavy cladding, and the foundation is expanded, retreating exactly 30 cm from the base building.


Home cladding with vinyl siding
The most practical, easy to assemble and relatively cheap is siding. It is attached directly to the crate, made in advance - before the insulation work. Using profiles for guidance, the cladding is quickly mounted. As a result, the house looks aesthetically pleasing. Due to the variety of shades, siding helps to build a noble-looking home. Approximately the same characteristics of the block house. As for the brick, it is expensive and requires thorough preparation and practical skills to carry out high-quality facing work.

Thus, the external insulation of a private dwelling helps to significantly save on utility costs and protect the building from destruction. You do not need to know any special secrets and technologies to do it yourself.

At all times, wooden houses and log cabins are considered the most warm views individual housing, since natural wood, due to its porous internal structure, has high thermal insulation properties. However, despite this, the constant heating of a large wooden house throughout winter period entails rather high costs, especially considering that the price natural gas and electricity is constantly increasing. Therefore, the insulation of wooden houses outside has now become very relevant.

In order to reduce heating costs and provide comfortable temperature inside your home, regardless of weather conditions, many owners of wooden houses resort to the insulation of the outer facade of the building using modern heat-insulating materials.

Insulation of the facade of a wooden house

Features of external thermal insulation of a wooden house

In addition to energy-saving functions, such insulation of a wooden house from the outside under plaster helps protect the wood surface from the harmful effects of weather factors, and allows you to perform finishing buildings with any facade paints for outdoor use.

Expanded polystyrene panels are prone to destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, therefore, after installation, they must be covered as soon as possible with a layer of decorative and protective plaster.

Cleaning and preparation of the facade

Before starting insulation of an old wooden house from the outside, you need to perform simple preparatory work, which are aimed at improving the efficiency of thermal insulation and increasing the durability of a wooden building.

1. Using a stiff brush, the surface of the facade should be cleaned as much as possible from old dirt and dust, paying attention to Special attention cracks, narrow places and depressions between the logs of the log house. If necessary, you need to re-caulk the old interventional insulation.
2. In the presence of significant pollution and stubborn dirt, you must first wet the facade with water from a hose, and after cleaning, allow it to dry completely for several days.
3. Inspect carefully wooden facade, and if detected, eliminate the lesions of putrefactive bacteria, mold fungus or insect pests.
4. If significant gaps or cracks are found, they must be caulked with tow, a special cord or non-woven fabric made from natural plant fibers.
5. At the end of everything, the walls of the house should be treated with antifungal impregnation or an antiseptic primer, which tends to penetrate deeply between the fibers of the wood.

Method 1. Insulation with foam boards

The classic insulation of a wooden house from the outside with your own hands using panels of rigid polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is carried out according to the same principle as the thermal insulation of a brick facade, while the entire scope of work performed is as follows:

1. With the help of special glue, the foam plates must be glued to the facade in such a way that their joints are not in the same line, but are staggered.
2. After the adhesive solution has dried, it is necessary to additionally fix each panel in five places (in the corners and in the center) using long galvanized self-tapping screws, using wide plastic washers for this.

1. If there are large gaps or cracks at the joints of the panels, they must be sealed with narrow strips of foam or blown out with mounting foam.
2. Thus, the entire facade should be sewn up, after which the material for warming the wooden house should be greased from the outside with a special construction adhesive and then glued with fiberglass reinforcing mesh.
3. After the glue hardens and dries, the walls must be plastered and painted. facade paint for outdoor use in any suitable color.

In most casesinsulation of the basement of a wooden house from the outsideusing foam, it is performed in a similar way, however, after gluing the reinforcing mesh, it must be coated with a layer sand-cement mortar, which should have a thickness of about 20 millimeters.

Method 2. Mineral wool insulation technology

In order to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside with panels of mineral or basalt wool, you must first install a vertical and horizontal crate made of timber or a galvanized profile, the cross section of which must be equal to the thickness of one layer of thermal insulation.

1. First of all, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade must be closed vapor barrier membrane, after which, from the roof to the base, fix vertical bars on it, keeping the distance between them 22-32 mm less than the width of the insulation.
2. The resulting vertical openings between the bars must be filled with mineral wool, leaving no air gaps between the plates.

1. Similarly, horizontal bars must be nailed to the vertical crate, after which the space between them is also closely filled with insulation boards.
2. After installation, the insulation for a wooden house from the outside must be closed with a special waterproofing film with micropores, which freely passes water vapor and air from the inside to the outside and prevents water from entering back.
3. In conclusion to wooden frame the finishing finishing material. The most commonly used for these purposes is metal or plastic siding or plastic panels with imitation of various building materials.

To increase durability and protect against decay, all bars of vertical and horizontal battens, as well as others wooden elements structures, before installation, it is necessary to treat it twice with antiseptic and antifungal impregnation.

Conclusion

Mineral wool can absorb moisture, which will reduce its thermal insulation properties therefore, when performing external insulation of a wooden house using this material on your own, small gaps must be left in the lower and upper parts of the facade, which are necessary for free air circulation.

In order to study in detail the technology for performing such work, it is recommended to watch the attached video in this article, or read similar articles that can be found on this site. If the reader has any comments or questions, I suggest discussing them in the comment form.