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Thermal insulation of wooden walls outside. How to insulate a log house from the outside. Log house insulation technology outside

The beam, due to its affordable cost, durability and strength, has become a popular material in the construction of houses. Natural wood creates a healthy indoor climate and has good vapor permeability. Low thermal conductivity is one of the advantages of timber, but insufficient wall thickness causes high costs for heating.

Even with careful joining, gaps remain between the lumber, letting cold and draft into the room. You can change the situation by performing insulation log house. The process of thermal insulation of a wooden building is distinguished by the availability of technology, so it is really possible to do it yourself.

Why is it preferable to place a heater outside?

External thermal insulation log house has its advantages:

• reduced heating costs;
• protection of hygroscopic wooden walls from exposure to moisture;
• the appearance of the facade changes according to the individual preferences of the owners;
• no reduction in interior space.

Criteria for the selection of thermal insulation material

When choosing a heater, you should pay attention to its characteristics: elasticity, resistance to burning and moisture, thermal conductivity, breathability. The thickness of the effective layer depends on the temperature in the region and the parameters of the beam. In a temperate climate, 50 mm of thermal insulation material is enough, and in winter frosts below -20 degrees, this figure doubles. The complexity of installation should also be taken into account, because the work is done by hand.

Ways of insulation, what to choose for walls made of timber

Exterior decoration of a log house is carried out in three ways:

• Ventilated façade.

Hinged structure includes wooden crate, insulation and outer lining from lining, siding or porcelain stoneware. Do-it-yourself facade installation gives the walls additional heat and sound insulation and brings the dew point out. The design is easy to assemble and lasts up to 50 years.

• Sealed with polyurethane foam.

Polymer spraying creates a monolithic seamless surface and strengthens the walls of the timber. Work is performed using the apparatus high pressure. He mixes the two components and delivers the composition through the gun to the surface to be insulated. Condensate does not collect under the polymer layer, it does not burn, does not rot, and reduces the noise level. After spraying polyurethane foam, finishing is required facade material. The main disadvantage of this method of insulation is the high price.

• The use of foam boards.

The low cost of the material makes it the most affordable insulation. It is resistant to fluctuations in temperature and humidity, but has a significant drawback - it supports combustion. Fixing the foam on the walls is carried out with special glue. Before mounting the first row, a starting profile is nailed to limit the sliding of the material.

After analyzing the pros and cons of the ways in which you can insulate log house outside, most owners settle for a ventilated façade.

Practical insulation for a wooden house

The best choice for warming the house will be mineral wool. It is made from slag, rocks or glass, so it does not support combustion. The material is easy to fit with your own hands, retains heat well and is affordable.

How to properly assemble a ventilated facade

Proper installation technology hinged facade includes several stages:

• fastening the crate;
• laying insulation;
• installation of a diffuse membrane;
• fixing the decorative coating.

Work begins with the application of an antiseptic layer to the beam, which protects against decay and moisture. On finished surface a frame of wooden planks is stuffed. The step of the vertical crate is 1.5 cm less than the width of the insulation. This will allow you to tightly lay the material, avoiding cracks and cold bridges.

The bars are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, their vertical plane is set using a level with a plumb line. Mineral wool mats are inserted between the frame slats, pressed tightly and fixed with umbrella dowels. When located wooden house in a region with a low temperature, it will be correct to perform external thermal insulation in two layers.

To protect the insulation from moisture, a special perforated film is laid. It does not allow water to penetrate inside, and the moisture accumulated in the cotton is released to the outside. The membrane is overlapped and fastened with staples, its joints are glued with adhesive tape.

The ventilating layer of the facade is created by stuffing planks over the waterproofing. They provide a space between the insulation and the cladding in which air circulates. The second row of rails becomes the basis for the finishing facade coating. Slots for ventilation remain in the lower and upper parts of the structure. They are protected from precipitation by special visors.

Mineral wool is an excellent insulator, but it loses its qualities when wet, so it should be stored indoors. When working with the material, dust and fibers appear, which cause irritation. It is necessary to lay mineral wool slabs in goggles and gloves.

It does not take much time and money to insulate a log house from the outside. result quality work the room temperature will be comfortable at lower heating costs.

- this is the placement of a thermal layer inside the wall frame. In some situations, it is necessary to minimize heat loss by supplementing the internal thermal insulation with an external one. We will figure out how and with what to insulate a wooden house from the outside, evaluate the characteristics, features of operation and installation of different materials.

The specifics of the insulation of frame houses from the outside

In rapidly erected buildings using Scandinavian or American technology, the role of a heat insulator is assigned directly wall panels. The insulation is mounted between the racks of the frame and is covered with a rough sheathing - wood-fiber panels, OSB boards etc.

However, with poor-quality work, improperly selected thickness or density of the heat insulator, the house may not retain heat well. To reduce the cost of paying for energy resources and improve the indoor climate in winter, additional insulation is required.

A set of requirements is put forward for a heat insulator for external walls:

1. Low thermal conductivity. Among the heaters, this property can boast of: polystyrene foam and mineral wool.
2. Minimum water absorption. Despite the additional protection of the heat-insulating layer from water, the insulation, one way or another, will come into contact with water vapor. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a material with low hygroscopicity.
3. Fire safety. It is optimal if the insulation has the ability to self-extinguish, does not contribute to the spread of fire and smokes little during combustion.
4. Light weight. Frames are built on a lightweight foundation and are not designed for significant loads.

In addition, the facade insulation for the exterior of the house must hold the linear dimensions well and not shrink. Additional requirements: environmental friendliness and affordable cost.

The choice of thermal insulation: characteristics and features of materials

The best option for insulation for outdoor use in frame construction – basalt wool. The material is heat-efficient and fireproof, but quite expensive. With a limited budget, foam or extruded polystyrene foam with flame retardants is suitable.

Video: facade insulation in a "wet" way

It happens that the walls of a wooden house do not do well with one of their tasks of retaining heat.

The solution to this problem lies in the insulation of the walls.

The insulation layer will act as a barrier between the street and the interior of the house.

When the question arises about the insulation of the walls of the log house, it is necessary to decide on the choice of thermal insulation method, which can be carried out both outside and inside.

Many homeowners lean towards the first option. This is obvious, because this method is much more efficient.

• External walls are additionally protected from moisture and solar activity, which increases their service life;
• Removing the dew point to the outside without the likelihood of condensation;
• Ensuring highly efficient thermal insulation;
• Preservation of the volume of the premises;
• Possibility of sealing external holes and cracks;

Flaws:

• Change appearance building facade;
• high cost of work;
• dependence of work on the season and on weather conditions;

External insulation under siding

• low cost;
• the possibility of leveling the walls;
• independence of work from the season and weather conditions;

Flaws:

• The shift of the dew point inside the room and the likelihood of condensation and mold;
• Reducing the volume of the room;
• Possible interior change for the worse;

Internal insulation

Types of external insulation:

• Strengthening heat insulators on the wall surface with adhesive mortars and finishing with plaster;
• Non-ventilated walls in three layers. The insulation material is fixed with a mortar and a single-brick outer wall in compliance with the air gap;
• Ventilated facade. The walls are protected with a waterproofing material, on top of which an insulating material is mounted. Then a windscreen is installed, and the frame is sheathed with clapboard or any other siding. This method allows installation even in winter due to the absence of the need to use adhesive solutions.

The main secret of the right house lies in the arrangement of its walls. The so-called wall "pie" causes a healthy microclimate and longevity of the structure.

wall pie

The “pie” of the wall consists of the following elements:

• Exterior finish protects all subsequent layers from aggressive external influences, moisture and temperature fluctuations. It can be performed various materials. Siding, facade plaster, decorative stones, facing bricks - the choice depends only on your imagination;
• waterproofing membrane located under exterior finish or wall cladding. It creates conditions for a favorable microclimate of the room and ensures safety from moisture. wooden elements frame. Waterproofing releases water vapor to the outside, but does not let moisture in;
• insulation is one of the most important components. It is laid between I-beams - in cells formed with the help of horizontally located connecting links;
• Vapor barrier membrane prevents the penetration of vapors into the interior of the walls. Its installation is carried out on a wooden frame from the inside of the walls. Its installation is necessary in places with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, toilet). Waxed paper often acts as a vapor barrier.
• Interior decoration- the closing layer of the "pie". The inner surface of the wall, if desired, can be sheathed with drywall, clapboard, etc.

The choice of insulation for a wooden house

Thermal insulation of walls made of timber can be carried out using facing bricks, stones made of concrete or ceramics, small blocks. The only thing between the cladding and the surface of the wooden wall should be the designed air gap, which is provided in order to remove excess moisture from their wood.

As heat-insulating materials can also be used:

• stone wool is a heat and sound insulating material that made mainly from molten rock. Is a variety. Gabbro-basalt rock is the raw material for the manufacture of material fibers;
• is an inexpensive, hygienically and sanitary safe, light but rigid material. Its insulating properties fully satisfy common requirements, but the possibility of cracking from thermal expansion to which the walls are exposed does not allow us to call it best solution for warming;
• Ecowool is absolutely natural, environmentally friendly, ideal soundproofing material , which is made up of cellulose and antiseptics, which are based on borax and boric acid. The material is moisture resistant, hypoallergenic, its laying is carried out without forming seams and voids. Does not require the use of a vapor barrier layer when insulating timber walls;
• Basalt wool is characterized by excellent vapor permeability. Basalt is a non-combustible material, which provides fire protection wooden log house. The material has good soundproofing characteristics;
• Foam glass is foamed glass, which is made up of thousands of glass cells.. The material is elastic, moisture resistant, environmentally friendly, fireproof, very durable and able to withstand any temperature fluctuations. It does not attract insects and does not allow mold and mildew to form. Among the shortcomings, one can note the lack of vapor conductivity, high fragility and high cost of the material;
• In the case of wooden walls, mineral wool is ideal as a heat insulator. It meets almost all the requirements for a heater, namely, it has a high coefficient of thermal insulation, a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity and low hygroscopicity. She is not afraid of high temperatures, fungus, mold, insects and rodents. It perfectly copes with the removal of vapors to the outside, non-toxic, non-flammable, breathable and, importantly, durable and can last from 30 to 60 years, based on the declared characteristics of the material.

Materials such as:

Types of heaters

Range modern heaters very rich and varied, that the question of choosing the heat-insulating material accordingly technical features premises, requirements and budget of the buyer, will not be difficult.

Preparatory work

NOTE!

First of all, the walls are treated with antiseptic preparations., which protect wood from fungus, rot, mold, woodworms, and fire-fighting substances that improve the protective characteristics of the building.

Before installation, carry out the following steps:

• It's time to seal the cracks and gaps. They are sealed with sealants or jute fibers;
• Next, proceed to the installation of the crate. To do this, self-tapping screws are attached to the surface of the walls bars 50×50 mm or 50×100 mm- they are selected according to the number of layers of insulation.
• The crate is installed in the form of horizontally and vertically arranged guides with a distance between them almost equal to the width of the insulation- less than one cm, in order to more tightly join the material.

Seal cracks with tow

Sealing cracks with sealant

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house outside with mineral wool

Warming the outer walls of a wooden house with your own hands is not such a complicated process as it seems at first glance, and mineral wool is well suited for these purposes.

CAREFULLY!

Before installing the insulation on the crate, it is necessary to attach a vapor barrier membrane. It will let the water vapor of the premises go outside, and it will hold back the moisture rushing into the room from the outside, preventing it from being absorbed into the insulation layer and protecting its thermal insulation characteristics.

• Having fixed the vapor barrier, begin to lay the slabs of insulating material using a construction stapler. In addition, the space between the rails is fixed to the wall. using umbrella dowels.
• A waterproofing membrane is mounted on top of the laid insulation, which will not let moisture in from the outside, but will remove a small amount of condensate that has penetrated the insulation layer;
• Further, installation of rails under facing materials, which perform not only the role of the frame and decoration of the facade, but also form ventilation gaps necessary for ventilation of the heat-insulating layer;
• As facing materials for wooden houses often used siding, lining, blockhouse.

Installation of the crate on the beam

Ways of timber insulation

Mineral wool insulation scheme

Installation of insulation from the outside using expanded polystyrene as an example

Expanded polystyrene sheets begin to be fixed in the frame from the bottom up using glue specially designed for this purpose. If some sheets do not hold well in place, you can use foam wedges to secure them or ordinary nails.

Further, the foam is covered with a diffusion membrane. It must be laid in horizontally running strips from the bottom of the wall to the top, while the resulting polystyrene foam joints should be overlapped by 10 - 15 cm.

The membrane is fastened with a stapler, and the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

After fixing the membrane, the structure is clad. For these purposes, lining, thin-layer plaster or siding is used.

NOTE!

No gaps should be left between the sheets to avoid the formation of “bridges” of cold.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Styrofoam laying

vapor barrier

The vapor barrier serves to protect the insulation from the penetration of steam from the side of the wooden wall. Install vapor barrier membrane on the wall is necessary only if mineral heat-insulating materials are used and / or their external surfaces face the street.

The film is installed between the heat-insulating material and the load-bearing walls of the house. The function of the vapor barrier is to protect the heat-insulating layer from getting wet.

It is necessary to accurately determine the side of the film fastening, since its incorrect installation in the future will lead to uncontrolled access of moisture.

For example:

• The foam propylene membrane is fixed with the rough side to the under-roof space.. If the membrane is polyethylene, the question of which side to attach will not matter
• The double layer membrane is laid smooth surface to the insulating layer.
• One-sided laminated polypropylene film is also directed with its smooth side to the insulating layer;
• The foil surface of the special film turns towards the heat-insulating layer;

vapor barrier

Installation of vapor barrier:

• Turn the film to the appropriate side and carefully, avoiding damage, fasten it to the crate;
• Carefully glue punctures, overlaps, likely gaps and crevices;
• Mount the crate using bars with a section of 3 × 5 cm in order to ensure ventilation;
• Cover the structure with finishing materials;

Waterproofing

• Waterproofing protects the walls of the house from the damaging effects of moisture, fungus, mold.
• It is reinforced between the thermal insulation material and the siding.
• Installation of a waterproofing membrane is carried out with an overlap of 10-15 cm.
• The canvases are attached with a stapler to the surface of the crate, while the joints are sealed with special tapes.
• Ventilation gaps are formed using a crate with a bar 25 × 50;
• From below, a protective metal mesh is installed

waterproofing membrane

In conclusion, it is worth saying that it is quite possible to perform the insulation of the walls of a house from a bar on your own. All you need is your patience and some expenses, which will more than pay off in the future.

Useful video

Insulation of a wooden house outside under siding in the video below:

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Content:

Recently, people lack natural, "clean" materials, products, etc. Many buyers today prefer houses made from natural building materials. All the advantages of a private house built of timber are quite understandable, but one should not forget that the insulation of a wooden house requires a special approach.

A wooden house can be insulated with ecowool both outside and inside. Although both options are not excluded at the same time. External insulation is considered the most effective, and internal insulation reduces inner space dwellings.

How to insulate: outside or inside?

Before proceeding with ecowool insulation, it is necessary to determine the type of installation.

A house made of logs is best insulated with inside, then the outer walls will delight their natural look. At the wall of log cabins on which the insulation is installed, the temperature is low, therefore positive characteristics worsen a little. In addition, a beam insulated from the inside leads to a violation of the natural evaporation of moisture and, as a result, the occurrence of condensate between the insulation and the wall. That's why internal thermal insulation walls have their drawbacks.

External thermal insulation of walls implies a uniform distribution of heat over the entire surface of the wall. Correct installation insulating materials that prevent water evaporation from the inside of the room, provides a normal humidity regime. As a rule, light "breathable" materials are installed outside.

So that a wall insulated from the outside always retains sufficient thermal insulation properties it is necessary to reliably protect heat-insulating materials from the effects of snow and rain. Concerning negative side, then it is also present.

The process of home insulation is a rather hard work, requiring not only aesthetic performance, but also the correct selection of materials. Of course, it is better to entrust this difficult task to professionals, but there is an opportunity to cope on your own.

Materials for insulation

Home insulation can be done different ways. For example, walls made of timber are often insulated using external cladding with small slabs, concrete or ceramic stones, and small blocks. Fitted between layers heat-insulating material. In addition, do not forget about the ventilated air gap, which will help remove excess moisture from the wood.

Ecowool

If the walls are made of wood, as a rule, ecowool is used. This material for thermal insulation is characterized by a high coefficient of heat saving and a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity.

This insulation better withstands high temperatures, promotes the removal of moisture and is able to withstand all sorts of troubles in the form of fungus, mold and insects. In addition, ecowool does not contain toxic substances in its composition.

mineral wool

Stone and mineral ecowool is an excellent material for thermal insulation of a house. The thicker the mats, the easier they are to install and the longer they last. Loose mats often slide off the frame and disintegrate, and dust that is harmful to the health of the occupants is formed. It is not recommended to save on high-quality material for home insulation.

In addition to ecowool, you will need two layers of film - waterproofing, which will protect the log house from moisture and hydro-windproof, which protects the insulation itself from moisture. Both layers are required.

Wall insulation with expanded clay is used quite often, since the material is originally natural and environmentally friendly.

House insulation with sawdust

Another fairly popular material (after ecowool) for insulating wooden walls and floors is sawdust. Wall insulation with sawdust has been used for a long time and to this day, despite the variety of modern heaters. This method has many advantages, the first of which is environmental friendliness (the material can be used without fear for the health of residents), and low cost (sawdust can be purchased for a nominal fee or completely free).

As for the minuses, in principle there are none, except for the inconvenience when using this bulk material. Although you can use sawdust slabs.

Floor insulation with sawdust requires certain knowledge. Before use, they must be applied with an antiseptic, dried thoroughly and mixed with slaked lime, which will protect the material from rodents.

Advice! For effective insulation the thickness of the sawdust layer should be at least 25 cm so that over time the sawdust does not settle and lose its heat-saving properties, it is necessary to prepare a mixture of sawdust (80%), gypsum and lime. To ensure the rigidity and strength of the wall, gypsum can be replaced with cement.

So, the prepared mixture must be poured boric acid, add 10 liters of water and check for moisture. If the lump of the mixture does not crumble in your hand, then the insulation is ready. Next, the sawdust must be left for a while. After 2 weeks, check for voids. If there is a void, fill it with an additional portion of sawdust.

In general, there are many ways to insulate using sawdust. In sawdust, you can add not only cement, but also clay, water, newsprint. The solution can be made in the form of plaster and cover the walls with it. It is worth noting that not only the walls and floor, but also the ceiling are insulated with sawdust. The mixture is prepared similarly to the above method with the addition of copper sulfate.

An important part is the treatment with an antiseptic, which will prevent the occurrence of harmful microorganisms.

Insulation of the ceiling occurs in several stages:

• At the first stage, it is necessary to dry the sawdust (it is better if it is large chips). It is categorically impossible to use fresh shavings for insulation.
• Next, clay will be needed, which should be soaked with water and left for a while.
• After that, add sawdust to the softened clay and mix. The density of the solution should be medium.
• We cover the surface with plastic wrap and spread the mixture.
• After drying, the surface may crack a little, but this does not matter. Cracks can be filled with ordinary clay or the same solution.

Also, sawdust can be used with cement and blue vitriol. Such a mixture is also possible for warming a wooden private house. Before laying a mixture of cement and wood shavings, polyethylene should be laid on the surface. While the solution will harden, you should not speed up the process in any way.

Vapor barrier of wooden walls

How to start warming a wooden house? Of course with the preparation of a vapor barrier layer. In the first year of operation of a private wooden dwelling, a change in indoor humidity is observed. As a result, the tree shrinks and cracks and deformation of the logs are possible.

This happens within the first five years from the start of operation. This feature is especially worth paying attention to people whose house is built from sawn timber or hand-cut logs.

This is less relevant for a dwelling made of profiled timber and rounded logs. During machining, a high degree of tightness is guaranteed. Roofing material or polyethylene is suitable for vapor barrier. Sometimes aluminum foil is also used.

External insulation

Wooden house wall insulation simple task. For competent work on this issue you need to know the technology.

• Two layers of antiseptic are applied to the walls. Drying will take a couple of days.
• To insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, then a film with a vapor barrier coating is attached to the walls.
• A vertical crate of bars is mounted on top of the film, the height of the bars should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
• Next, mineral wool is laid.

Work must be done in protective clothing. If necessary, mats can be cut with a regular knife. Temporary lining may be needed if the mats do not hold well inside the wooden structure.

Finally, the mats are fixed with anchor nails. If necessary, several layers of thermal insulation can be made, while the next layer should cover the joints of the previous one.

The next step is a ventilated frame made of bars. They are attached to the lower frame with self-tapping screws.

The technology of fastening the skin is better described by the manufacturer than anyone else. Here the choice is wide, the owner of a private house can choose a blockhouse, an imitation of a bar or, for example, a metal profile. It is important that during the work there are no gaps through which moisture can penetrate.

In order for the thermal insulation of the house to be completely finished, it is possible to additionally insulate the foundation. This can be done using foam, polyurethane foam or polystyrene. On top of the insulation layer, facing with brick or decorative stone is possible.

Video: Wall insulation outside

Insulation of the house from the inside

Warming the walls of the house from the inside is also quite popular.

• On load-bearing walls mounted wooden beam. Sometimes used and metallic profile(if moisture-resistant drywall is used in the future).
• The wooden beam must match the height interior. There should be one post in each corner. When insulating indoors, wood, i.e. the surface of the walls should be treated with a special liquid that will prevent the processes of burning and decay.
• Further, after installing the wooden frame, mineral wool is used. The insulation is cut to the height of the wall, the width should be slightly wider than the distance between the wooden bars.
• Ecowool is fixed inside the bars with the help of anchors. As facing material for the interior of the room, you can use lining or other decorative material.

From the proposed video you will learn the opinion of an expert on the process of insulation, the selection of materials for insulation, as well as theoretical basis heat-saving processes. Click "play" and watch, it will be interesting.

Video: Dew point or we warm the house wisely

Statistics show that when building wooden houses the proper standard for the thermal protection of houses is often ignored. Therefore, as a rule, when building a private house from logs or timber, it should be borne in mind that additional thermal insulation will be needed.

Various materials can be used as cladding - siding, lining or cement - particle board. Also, with financial opportunities, you can create an imitation of a bar or a block house.

High-quality insulation of the house is the key to a comfortable life in the cold season. Therefore, so that frosts do not disturb in winter, it is worth thinking about the choice of material and insulation technology in advance. This applies to all cases, including the insulation of a wooden house from the outside. Consider what you should pay attention to when choosing suitable material, as well as how to do everything you need yourself, if we are talking about a building made of wood.

There are a lot of thermal insulation materials. Some of them are very popular among consumers, and some, on the contrary, are used quite rarely. Consider what characteristics determine popularity, and which options are used more often than others:

• stone wool in slabs – lightweight and comfortable material, which is transported without problems and can be cut even with the help of ordinary knife. These plates are laid between the frame elements, and then covered with a vapor barrier and waterproofing material With different sides. The main thing is not to compress or tamp them during the transportation of mats, as they are easily deformed;

• ecowool is a material created on the basis of cellulose, which is pressed and packaged. For insulation with its help, two options can be used. In the first case, I take out the cotton wool from the open package, and slightly kneading it, ram it into the walls. It is difficult to say unequivocally how good this method is. Some manufacturers claim that with such insulation you will not know problems from 10 to 20 years. Although it is impossible to completely deny the possibility of shrinkage and deterioration of the thermal insulation properties of the material. The second method is called wet, since ecowool is sprayed onto the walls, due to which the material seizes with the frame and the risk of settling is eliminated;
• polystyrene is a very common and cheap way insulate the building. Its low cost is due to fragility, brittleness, as well as the need to additionally enclose it with a moisture-proof membrane in order to avoid the accumulation of condensate in the future. It is important that for insulation you need to buy only non-pressed foam sheets;
• polyurethane foam - a material consisting of two separate components mixed together under high pressure. When in contact with air, it behaves in the same way as ordinary polyurethane foam - it expands. Warming a wooden house with polyurethane foam is quite effective and reduces heat loss to a minimum. In addition, it has the ability to repel water;
• heaters of natural origin are a variety of mixtures and boards made on the basis of sawdust, straw, clay, etc. The cost of this method is low, but choosing this option, you need to be prepared to tinker. To easy-to-use natural insulation can be attributed, perhaps, flax fibers.

Other materials used for external insulation of house walls

Apart from traditional materials, there are several more options that, although they have not yet gained such popularity, still often surpass the characteristics already considered.

1. Basalt slabs for. The price is the only drawback that can be found in this material. Despite the similarity with mineral wool, given material is many times superior to technical indicators and characteristics. It provides excellent thermal insulation and at the same time is able to withstand heavy loads and temperature changes. Over time, it does not shrink and does not lose its characteristics. So its considerable, in comparison with other materials, cost can be called more than justified.
2. Penoplex is a material that is rapidly gaining popularity, despite the fact that it has appeared on the market recently. The material is extruded polystyrene foam, characterized by low weight and good moisture resistance. This allows you to use it without laying additional waterproofing layers.
3. Insulation "Arctic", consists of synthetic fibers, which are fastened together under the influence of hot air. The material is excellent for use in the harshest weather conditions. This insulation is considered breathable and provides good thermoregulation in both winter and summer.

Helpful advice! When working with any type of thermal insulation material, personal protective equipment must be used to prevent the fibers from entering the respiratory tract and on the skin, as this can cause irritation.

The advantages of external insulation of a wooden house over internal

Choosing the right way to carry out work on the insulation of a wooden house is the key to a quality result. Internal insulation of houses is used extremely rarely, since a thick layer of material will significantly reduce the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. In addition, the insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside will lead to the fact that outer side walls will still be exposed to cold, which will lead to freezing of wood.

Incorrectly performed work and non-compliance with insulation technology frame house can lead to the fact that the tree begins to rot from the inside and becomes a favorable environment for the vital activity of fungi and mold. That is why the method is no less important than the choice of a material suitable for this purpose.

But with external insulation, it is also important to ensure that the vapors can freely escape. Otherwise, the wood will deteriorate and it will be impossible to control the condition of the walls.

Features of the facade insulation technology with mineral wool

When laying a heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to provide waterproofing to the walls. For this purpose, parchment is excellent. Despite its low cost He does his job very well. Initially, it is necessary to cut strips from it and fix them on the frame with a stapler. The step in this case should not exceed 12 cm.

Sheets of glassine are glued with an overlap so that the overlap is about 10 cm. This prevents condensation from entering the heat-insulating material.

Helpful advice! If after the insulation of the house it is planned to cover with siding, then care must be taken that there is free space between it and the insulation (about 30-50 cm). This will prevent moisture from lingering in the frame.

When the glassine is fixed, you can proceed to laying the insulation. Minvata in this case – great option, as it is not prone to fire and is easy to install. The main thing is that the thickness of mineral wool for wall insulation is correctly selected. For a temperate climate, this figure should be 80-100 mm, and for regions with severe winters, material 150 mm thick can be used.

The technology of facade insulation with mineral wool provides for the following sequence of work:

• it is necessary to measure the distance between the racks;
• to the result we add 5 cm to the allowance on each side;
• with help sharp knife cut mineral slabs for wall insulation to right size and lay them on the wall on top of the waterproofing;
• the joints between the frame and the insulation are additionally closed with cut strips 3-4 cm wide.

A layer must be laid on top vapor barrier material. Penophenol is excellent, which is attached to the frame with a construction stapler. After that, it remains only to sheathe the walls with siding or edged boards depending on your desire, and you can consider the procedure for warming a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool completed.

Helpful advice! It is necessary to lay the foam phenol strictly in a horizontal direction, while leaving 5 cm joints so that there is a foil part on the outside.

Facade insulation with extruded polystyrene foam: material features

Expanded polystyrene has an extremely low thermal conductivity, which allows it to be effectively used as a heat-insulating material, using for outer skin walls.

For the first time, extruded polystyrene foam was used in the USA, where it immediately gained popularity due to its characteristics. Its production consists in mixing a special composition consisting of carbon dioxide and freon with a granular polymer. The resulting mixture under the influence high temperature is fed into a special apparatus called an extruder. Its task is to foam the composition and ensure high-quality mixing of all components.

The mixture obtained in the extruder is formed into plates, which solidify, forming a light and durable heat-insulating material. The advantages of such a technology for insulating walls with foam from the outside include the low vapor permeability of the material, as well as durability and resistance to impact. external factors.

According to manufacturers, the service life of this material can reach 50 years if the laying technology has been observed. In its structure, expanded polystyrene is 90% air, which is enclosed in cells.

Expanded polystyrene is always used specifically for external wall insulation, since the material has a considerable volume, and internal insulation of the premises will lead to significant losses of free space. If we take into account the standard thickness of expanded polystyrene for wall insulation of 80-100 mm or 30-40 mm, laid in two layers, then such a loss of usable space inside the house will be very noticeable.

At the same time, the effectiveness of this method cannot be underestimated, since by using this heat insulator, savings of the order of 50% on heating bills are achieved. Although it is impossible not to notice high price for work. Wall insulation with expanded polystyrene from the outside, taking into account all the necessary finishing works, will cost from 1300 rubles per 1 m².

Helpful advice! In order to achieve the desired effect, it is necessary to work at a temperature not lower than 5ºС and as dry as possible.

Do-it-yourself facade insulation technology with expanded polystyrene

Like any work related to surface insulation, it all starts with the preparation and cleaning of the wall from dirt and any excess mortar. Protruding reinforcement elements and just protrusions that are not an architectural solution can interfere. When all excess is removed, it is necessary to repair all cracks and crevices and prime the surface.

When the preparation is completed, it is necessary to install vertical sags. The easiest way to do this is with nylon cords fixed in 0.5-0.7 m increments. With their help, you can see if there are dips or bulges on the wall and, if necessary, add more glue. Sometimes you have to slightly change the shape of the plate, using a special grater for this.

Helpful advice! In order for the final result to look aesthetically pleasing, check each laid element with a building level.

The technology of facade insulation with foam plastic provides that the elements are fastened to a special adhesive mixture. It is prepared according to the instructions that come with it. It is important to use the prepared amount of solution within 1.5 hours if the ambient temperature is not too high. In hot weather, this period is reduced to 40-60 minutes.

Glue is applied to the plate along the edges, as well as in five places in the middle, regardless of the thickness of the foam plastic chosen for wall insulation. This ensures its secure attachment to the wall surface. If you have to fix the heat-insulating material on an ideal flat surface, then it is best to use a comb spatula to apply the mortar.

If you need to lay not one, but two layers of expanded polystyrene, laying should be done in such a way that the seams do not match. In addition, you will need to close up all the gaps between the plates, using small pieces of the same material or its liquid form. Mounting foam not recommended for this purpose. And if there are any discrepancies between the elements in the places where they should be in contact, then this can be eliminated using the same grater.

In conclusion, mechanical fixation of the insulation plates is also carried out in order to eliminate the risk of their delamination from the surface. At the rate of 5-6 fasteners per sheet, they are fastened with dish-shaped dowels.

The technology of warming a wooden house with polyurethane foam

Unlike expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and other popular heaters, polyurethane foam spraying technology involves a very complex procedure associated with the use of expensive equipment. The thing is that in order for the coating to have the desired characteristics and be resistant to external factors, the mixture of the components of the solution must be supplied under the influence of very high pressure.

Related article:

The main materials used for vapor barrier, their pros and cons. Features of installation of vapor barrier inside and outside a wooden house.

However, such conditions are fully justified by the fact that the service life of such a heater is from 30 to 50 years. In addition, by making a choice in favor of this option, you can provide the house not only with the preservation of heat, but also with excellent sound insulation, which no other material used for insulation can boast of.

Another quality of polyurethane foam is the ability to take any shape, which makes it convenient to apply it to the relief surfaces of the wall and timber.

True, it is most likely that it will not work to do all the work on your own, since it is more than not justified to purchase expensive equipment. It is much more rational to invite specialists for this.

Applying polyurethane foam to the exterior walls of the house is as follows:

• at the agreed time, a team of professionals arrives at your home by minibus, inside which there is all the necessary equipment, as well as the components necessary for the preparation of the mixture;
• to the places where the spraying will be carried out, they stretch hoses through which the finished mixture is supplied;
• an even layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the prepared wall surface;
• after solidification, all excess is removed and cleaned.

Like any other insulation, polyurethane foam lends itself perfectly to finishing. Using a reinforcing mesh, in the future, plaster can be applied on top. And if you prepare the frame in advance, then it is possible to make siding sheathing.

Technology of insulation of facades with foam plastic: features of fastening the material

Fastening foam elements to the wall is a task that requires attention if a choice is made in favor of this material. It’s worth starting work with the installation of vertical cord canopies that will help you evenly position the first element.

According to the technology of insulating the house with foam plastic from the outside, fastening is carried out using special glue, which is applied to the foam element at the edges, as well as at five points inside. This ensures that the element is securely fixed. Thus, the entire insulation is attached. And in order to provide additional strength, you can also use plastic dowels, securing the sheets with them.

The technology of insulating walls from the outside with polystyrene foam with your own hands is one of the simplest and most familiar, since this material is often used for a variety of construction work and everyone, one way or another, has come across it in everyday life. So the main task- correctly choose the thickness of the foam for insulating the walls outside the wooden house and securely fix the material.

Obviously, it is impossible to lay the sheets in such a way as to avoid cracks and gaps. Therefore, they must be sealed with. The next step is plastering the surface and laying reinforced mesh. This will protect the wall from the destructive influence of external factors. However, one layer will not be enough here, it is necessary to apply at least two layers of normal and one decorative plaster to give the building an aesthetic appearance.

How to independently make the insulation of a log house from the outside

Rigid tile materials are best suited for insulating timber houses, as they have sufficient density and are not subject to shrinkage over time. It is also important to choose the right thickness of the heat insulator. So, for example, for walls 20 cm thick, a layer of thin material is enough - 5 cm. And if we are talking about insulating a house from a 150x150 bar from the outside, then it is better to give preference to a 10 cm thick insulating material.

It is worth starting work with surface treatment with mastic, which repels water. After that, you need to install a wooden frame that will hold the insulation and become the basis for fixing the finishing finishing material.

Helpful advice! All elements of the wooden frame must be treated with antiseptic agents that prevent decay and protect the wood from moisture.

Basalt wool is best suited for insulating a house from a bar, which is attached to the surface of the walls with self-tapping screws. Fasteners must be placed at the rate of 4-6 pieces per 1 m². A diffusion membrane must be laid on top, which acts as a waterproofing agent.

TO wooden frame they nail slats 5 cm thick. Their task is to create a ventilation gap that will not allow moisture to accumulate. And already the finishing material is attached to the rails themselves.

The cost of facade insulation with different materials can vary greatly. Much depends on how serious costs the production of a particular insulation requires. And sometimes you have to take into account the need to purchase additional materials, for example, vapor and waterproofing layers, if necessary.

So, for example, the price for facade insulation using expanded polystyrene will be about 1600-2000 rubles per 1 m². But this is the case if all the work will be performed by a professional. If you do everything yourself, you can save a lot, because the cost of the most ordinary sheets does not exceed 30 rubles, although it happens that you need a stronger and thicker material.

Insulation of the foundation slab: is it necessary

Another way to insulate a house is to use modern materials for finishing the foundation slab, which, like walls, often becomes a source of freezing of the building and over time can begin to collapse under the influence of external factors.
For many, the need for insulation of the foundation slab is also justified by the possibility of significant savings in the future, spending 1.5-2 times less resources on heating the house.

However, simply purchasing and attaching a heater will not be enough. It is necessary to ensure the full functioning of the system, having thought through the method of removing moisture and preventing the development of fungi, mold, and corrosion processes inside. This requires accurate engineering calculations that will allow you to move the point outside the contour of the main part of the building.

In addition, it is impossible not to take into account such a phenomenon as soil heaving, which is typical for winter period and can create significant pressure on the elements of the building located in the ground. Therefore, among the tasks that are set for the insulation material for the foundation slab, there is also protection against this kind of mechanical influences.

Restoration and insulation according to Swedish technology: features of the method

Insulation of foundation slabs Swedish technology- one of the best foreign technologies that has become available in our area not so long ago. Consider what are the advantages of this method, and what are its main technologies:

• The technique proposes the creation of a single solid structure consisting of reinforced cast concrete equipped with stiffeners. Installation is carried out on a special pillow, which is surrounded on all sides by expanded polystyrene plates;

• sand is poured under the bottom of the insulation, as well as on the sides of it;
• it is planned to install a special system for collecting and draining water into the drainage;
• in order to reduce the load on drainage system, a blind area is provided;
• inside the house, a floor heating system will be provided, which is built into the foundation at the stage of its construction.

It is interesting that in Sweden this technology has been used for more than half a century, but in Russia it was used no more than 10 years ago. But even during this short period, some features of this technology became apparent:

• this method is great for building one-story and two-storey houses. But when it comes to building tall buildings, then a large number of calculations will be required, as well as permission in all official instances;
• Even at the design stage, care must be taken to eliminate the risk of flooding the building. For this purpose, a sand bed of the required height is installed. You can determine the necessary parameters by taking into account those statistical data that are considered official for a particular region;

• it is necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the area on which the construction is carried out and, based on the available data, use standard or reinforced drainage and waterproofing systems;
• if construction is to be done on soils dominated by sand, then there is no need to install a water drainage system;
• as in all other cases, when it comes to working with concrete, it is recommended to carry out all work in the warm season, since low temperatures significantly increase the risk that the resulting structure will not end up strong enough;
• even if a team of specialists is involved in the work, the implementation of this technology takes time. It usually takes 3 to 4 weeks.

Interesting to know! Subject to the quality of all insulation work and the presence of a “warm floor” system, even if the heating is completely turned off, the heat in the house will remain for 72 hours.

Choosing the right material for the insulation of the foundation slab

When deciding on the use of Swedish technology, it is necessary to understand that not all materials that we are accustomed to using as heaters are suitable for its implementation. First of all, consider those that are categorically not suitable for this purpose:

1. Mineral wool and all kinds of its analogues. Not having sufficient rigidity and strength, they are also prone to water absorption, which is unacceptable in such operating conditions.
2. Expanded clay and other granular materials. Their main problem is the inability to form a dense layer around the foundation, because of this they let moisture through.
3. Foam polymers, the creation of which is carried out directly on construction sites. And although in this case there is no unequivocal prohibition, such a technology requires vast experience and complex expensive equipment. Although even the presence of these factors still cannot guarantee success.

Based on the foregoing, it becomes clear that perfect option to insulate the foundation of the house from the outside - polystyrene foam. Its characteristics fully meet all the requirements that apply to the material for solving all the tasks.

Among these properties, it is worth noting the following:

• the standard dimensions of each slab greatly facilitate the process of laying them, allowing you to make calculations according to the available data, and ensuring high-quality and even joints;
• some manufacturers produce plates equipped with special grooves on the sides, which additionally ensures the tightness of each joint;
• the material is very durable and absolutely does not allow moisture to pass through;
• high thermal insulation properties allow high-quality insulation without laying many layers of material or one, but too thick. One layer of plates of standard thickness will be enough.

You can also insulate the blind area with extruded polystyrene foam, which will further reduce total heat loss buildings through the foundation and will provide additional savings.

Foundation insulation technology with extruded polystyrene foam

The process of warming the foundation slab consists of several stages. Consider each of them, paying attention to the nuances of the work, as well as the difficulties that may arise during the installation process.

For this type of work, the use of 10 cm thick foam is considered quite sufficient. The only requirement is that the material must be of high quality and purchased from a reputable manufacturer.

Helpful advice! By purchasing any Construction Materials, including expanded polystyrene plates, it is better to ask the seller for a certificate for the proposed products. Before making a purchase, you need to make sure that the product meets all the specified standards.

Site preparation is to assess the existing geological features of the site, as well as the type of soil with which you will have to work. In the process of digging a hole under the foundation, care must be taken to ensure that the bottom is as even as possible. To do this, at the final stage, it is recommended to dig a recess manually.

At the bottom of the pit, a layer of sand is poured, which is necessarily compacted. Then the temporary formwork is installed and the first layer of concrete is poured. At this stage, the use of any elements for reinforcement is not yet provided.

After the first layer of concrete has hardened, polyurethane foam slabs are laid on top, which are placed in two layers in a checkerboard pattern. All joints and seams must be sealed to exclude the possibility of moisture getting into them. All this is covered on top with a layer of strong polyethylene film, laying it overlapping and carefully sealing the joints with adhesive tape.

It remains only to fill the main part of the foundation, which provides for the mandatory presence of reinforcing elements and is carried out according to standard technology. After the concrete has completely hardened, with the help of a special adhesive composition, expanded polystyrene plates are attached to all end parts.

As you can see, the technology for insulating the foundation with extruded polystyrene foam is not too complicated, if you familiarize yourself in advance with all the requirements for materials, as well as the order of work.

The fact that the external insulation of wooden houses significantly outperforms the internal one has been proven in practice more than once. Although a lot, of course, depends on the correct selection of heat-insulating material, and on compliance with all technology requirements. Fortunately, modern market rich enough, and able to offer customers a wide selection of materials for thermal insulation of wooden houses.