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Installation of vinyl siding - we sheathe the house with siding with our own hands (detailed instructions with photos, videos, diagrams and drawings). How to properly install or install siding technology Installation of facade siding

To give the building a stylish aesthetic appearance such finishing material as siding becomes popular. For its installation, you can, of course, use the services of professional builders. However, the cost of services construction firms high enough. Therefore, having the right tool, installation siding can be done by hand. The owner of a private house or cottage, this is especially true.

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Necessary power tool

The process of finishing the facade of any task with siding will facilitate the presence of the following tools:

• Perforator.
• Hacksaw and scissors for metal
• Cordless drill (screwdriver).
• Building level (length - 2 m).
• Marker or pencil for marking.
• Roulette, at least 5 meters long.
• Rope.
• Building corner.
• Electric carry.
• Punch.

Of course, it is not enough to have the necessary tool, you need to be able to use it correctly. Below step-by-step instruction DIY siding on the facade of the house will help you avoid most mistakes. However, before starting facing work, you should understand what siding is and what materials it is made of.

Siding and its varieties

It is no secret that the quality of any finishing works, including the installation of siding will depend on the material used. Siding is a sheathing material made in the form of lamellas (plates) or slats. The plates are used to finish the walls and facade of the house, and the lower floors are used basement siding. Facing material of this type is made from such raw materials as:

• Plastic. It is based on acrylic and vinyl polymers. The popularity of such material is difficult to overestimate. Despite the low price, it has a number of advantages. Such siding will not rot, because. it is resistant to moisture, it does not crack, it is resistant to fire. Plastic siding can be used both for finishing the house from the outside and from the inside. The disadvantage of this material is the low resistance to mechanical damage.
• Metal siding. As a rule, galvanized iron or aluminum is used for manufacturing. Such sheathing material has maximum resistance to fire and deformation. The disadvantages of metal siding is its weight, and as a result, more laborious installation. Moreover, in case it polymer coating broken, the siding will be susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, timber sheathing wooden house metal siding requires special care. The condition of the metal coating should be checked regularly.

• Wood siding. trimmed wooden siding outside the house are quite rare. Such sheathing material is not as durable as metal, requires constant care. Wood siding also has a very high price. However, all its shortcomings are offset by excellent thermal insulation, aesthetic appearance, soundproofing, and moisture resistance. Remember that open fire is extremely dangerous for wood siding.
• Fiber cement siding. This material has all the above advantages. It is absolutely resistant to fire, mold, moisture. However, it also has a solid weight, respectively, its installation will be difficult. For example, if plastic or metal siding is mounted using a tongue-and-groove method, then fiber cement siding is only overlapped and only using special fasteners. Basement siding made from such material is in demand.

Finishing the facade and walls of the house with do-it-yourself siding is a simple, but very painstaking work. Getting started, calculate the amount of material required. Do not forget that siding in the form of rails is used for the basement, and in the form of panels for walls and facades.

preliminary calculations. Preparatory work

The approximate amount of siding required for finishing the house is determined based on the area of ​​​​the walls, facade and other elements outside the house. In other words, the area of ​​the walls and facade of the building is divided by the length of the siding panel. An accurate result can be obtained using a building sketch. Finishing long wall surfaces with siding will require butt joints, this will require an H-profile. Please note that joints made in different places, spoil appearance Houses. A high-quality sketch of the facade of the house allows you to calculate the installation of siding with your own hands with the least number of connections, while maintaining an acceptable cost.

Before installing siding with your own hands, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work to prepare the walls outside the house. To do this, it will be necessary to remove dust and dirt, lime and residues of other finishing materials, etc. from the sheathed surfaces. If plaster has been applied to the facade and walls of the house, which has become of poor quality, then it will need to be dismantled.

In addition, it will be necessary to remove from the walls all external elements that interfere with the installation of siding, these include gutters, cornices, window sills. For a wooden building, it will not be superfluous to check the walls for the presence of fungus and mold.

If you plan to lay thermal insulation materials under the siding, you will need a vapor barrier film. It is used to protect the insulation from condensation.

First stage. frame

Installation of siding is carried out on a frame prepared in advance by one's own hands. For its manufacture, metal or wooden materials. It is worth noting that the metal crate has the advantage of durability and strength. In addition, the metal frame is better fixed on uneven surfaces. Beat stun defects with wooden frame much more difficult.

The profile is attached to the wall with hangers, and the distance between them should not exceed half a meter. This installation method allows you to set the profiles using the building level, despite the unevenness and imperfections of the walls.

If finances are limited or the installation of a metal crate is impractical, a wooden frame is used.

For such a crate, it is forbidden to use material that exfoliates, is deformed, has traces of mold or rot. This is especially true for a wooden log house.

The frame is mounted on even, prepared for this, walls. Siding panels are mounted on the facade of the house or its walls horizontally. Accordingly, the lathing bars or metal profiles are installed vertically. The guides are attached to the wall of a wooden house with nails or self-tapping screws. If the base is made of concrete, monolith or brick, use a perforator and dowels. Each rail or profile is leveled.

In the event that, together with the cladding work, it is planned to also external thermal insulation of the walls, the crate for siding is installed after all work with insulating material. In this case, two frames will be mounted: for siding and for thermal insulation. It is important that the laths of the crate are parallel to each other.

How to work with siding

Regardless of the material from which the building is built, after preliminary work, do-it-yourself siding installation is carried out in the same sequence.

Work on finishing a brick, monolithic, timber, any house begins with the installation of the launch panel and fixing it with nails or self-tapping screws. The next step is to mount the H-rail, if it is provided, and install the corner fasteners. Window blocks and doorways are made using profile J.

Starting profiles and guides must be installed flawlessly, and the step-by-step instructions serve as a guide for beginner finishers. The first steps look like this:

1. Initially, you need to use the level to find the lowest point on the frame, and step back from it up 5 centimeters, make a mark. This is done with a screw or a nail.
2. Consistently, moving around the house, we screw in the screws as marks. Starting profiles will be installed in these places. Do not forget about the marks in the corners of the building.
3. We stretch the construction cord between the corner screws.
4. We put on the rails of the frame the borders of the profiles installed at the corners. To do this, we apply the profile to the crate, and, using a pencil or marker, put marks on its edges.
5. Adhering to the cord, we make a horizontal gap of six millimeters from the corner profiles and mount the starting guide to the profile or battens of the crate.

Remember to leave a gap of 10 millimeters between the profiles.

This is necessary to compensate for temperature differences. A gap of six millimeters should not be made if you remove part of the nail strips in advance, and they will not rest against the J profile during temperature differences. The initial profiles should only be mounted horizontally. Don't waste your time on this. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to fix the siding, which will appear later on.

External corner profiles

Do-it-yourself installation of these elements is carried out in the following order:

1. We mark the spotlights, it is important for us to know where their edges will be.
2. We take the guide and apply it to the crate, leave a gap of three millimeters between it and the soffit (roof). Then we fix the guide with self-tapping screws, but its lower edge should be six millimeters below the starting profile.
3. We check the vertical installation. In the absence of defects, we fix the bottom and other places. Do not abuse the fasteners in the corners.

If the height of the building exceeds three meters, the profile will lie one on one. To do this, the upper profile will need to be trimmed. This is necessary so that there is a gap of nine millimeters between the connecting elements.

Profiles need to be connected at the same level and on one side of the building. If basement siding protrudes, the profile must be cut so that a gap of six millimeters remains between them.

Internal corner profile

The installation methods for internal corner profiles are practically no different from the methods for finishing external corners. The distance between the corner and the soffit should be three millimeters, and the lower edge of the profile should be six below the J profile. If the basement siding or other element protrudes from below, the profile will need to be cut.

Finishing windows and doors

Many novice finishers experience difficulties at this stage. Openings can be flush with the wall surface, they can be recessed, or they can protrude. The most common openings are on the same level with the wall. The instructions for finishing such an opening look like this:

1. We protect openings from precipitation.
2. We install platbands on the openings (two vertical and two horizontal are used for each opening).
3. Joining profiles.

Installation of the main siding panels

Do-it-yourself siding work on the facade of a house always begins with the most inconspicuous part of the building. This allows you to work out the installation technology with the least losses.

1. The panel is mounted in the corner profile and joined with the lock of the starting rail.
2. The panel is fixed to the frame.

In the future, the panels are mounted using H-profiles or overlap one another. Installing the remaining panels is no different from fixing the first one. Approaching the opening, the excess will need to be removed. Don't forget to check the horizon of the panels every three levels with a spirit level.

To equip the lower part of the house, basement siding in the form of rails is used; you should not use ordinary panels for these purposes.

Apart from decorative features siding protects the house from atmospheric precipitation, winds, and when laying a heat-insulating layer, from temperature changes.

The advantages of siding finishes are difficult to dispute. This material has undeniable advantages that distinguish it from other types of finishing materials. The high popularity of siding coatings is explained by the fact that they have a number of advantages.

Before installing siding, there are a few things to consider. features that this type of material for cladding a house has:

• a high level of environmental cleanliness, which allows you not to fear for the life and health of residents;
• the siding coating is characterized by significant resistance to any natural temperature changes, and also does not support the combustion process at all;
• siding panels are not subject to decay and are able to retain their basic shape and color scheme for a sufficiently long time;
• the technology of laying this type of coating on the wall does not require professional skills and the use of special equipment, and a detailed diagram or assembly instructions allows you to do it yourself.

In addition, siding is perfectly combined with other types of finishing materials and allows you to end up with an original and individual combination according to self-registration Houses.

Standard installation of siding is not difficult, but before laying siding on the facade or basement of the house, you should carefully read the basic installation rules, as well as the assembly diagram and instructions.

Siding installation technology (video)

Preparatory work

In order to lay siding panels as competently as possible, you should not only carefully study the method of cladding the facade of the house with the material in accordance with the instructions, but also observe step-by-step sequence actions. Initially, it is required to determine the required number of panels, which is necessary for cladding the facade of the structure. This can be done by calculating the front area, to which 10% is added to fit the material.

Sheathing with siding panels involves preliminary training surface from which any foreign elements that prevent installation are removed. All window openings are free from bars. Trim, shutters and slopes are also subject to removal. In addition, competent installation involves the dismantling of doors and downpipes. All cracks and gaps on the facade of the house should be repaired very carefully.

The next stage of the finishing process is the manufacture of crates based on wooden beams. The frame material is fixed on the wall surface in a vertical direction with a distance between fasteners of 40 cm. natural ventilation behind-panel space on the facade of the house. Sheathing bars should also be placed around doors, windows, and corner areas of the house.

Be sure to provide a quality seal for all areas that may be exposed to moisture. The basic process of home siding must begin by establishing a starting point. The first row of panel siding should be laid in such a way that the fixed elements can cover the upper fragment of the foundation. Thus, horizontal markings should be made around the perimeter of the house.

It should be remembered that the frame of the crate can be made not only from lumber, but also using.

The choice of lathing is based on the type of finishing and must take into account the type of walls of the structure being finished. As a rule, facade cladding is carried out using wood, vinyl, plinth, steel or aluminum siding.

Basic rules and schemes

The technology for finishing the siding structure involves the following basic installation rules:

• Installation of the initial bar, which is supplied with the finishing material. The bar should be nailed with small carnations according to the level of the previously made markings.
• The first panel of trim siding is fixed to the starter plank and nailed down starting at the center.
• A new finishing strip-section is fixed, and then the subsequent installation of all the following rows is carried out finishing material.
• The right decision is to choose additional elements from the manufacturer whose siding panels are used in the cladding. Such components are optimally suited for installation and allow you to perform a reliable, as well as guaranteed durable coating on the facade of the building.

Cladding instructions

Most manufacturers producing certified siding products for cladding the facade and basement parts of a building accompany their products with a mandatory instruction diagram that contains detailed description the following conditions for the installation of the material:

• a list of equipment and tools necessary for the high-quality performance of installation work;
• the need for carrying out the full scope of work in additional or component elements, as well as additional products;
• the main steps and rules that involve the installation of a start profile and corner elements, the installation of frames on window and door openings, the installation of H-shaped profiles to combine siding panels, the installation of a J-profile.

In addition, in the attached instructions, the manufacturer may specify the possibility of mounting horizontal and vertical versions of siding panels, as well as installation work on the use of spotlights and a J-shaped chamfer. special attention require work on an arched type.

Siding laying errors (video)

You should not neglect the recommendations of the manufacturer for the maintenance of siding panels. This will help extend the service life, as well as maintain the quality characteristics of the finishing material throughout the entire service life.

You can improve the appearance of a house or any other extension by installing siding, moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material is also used for cladding industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular facing building material. It is produced in the form of panels with a length of 3 to 4 meters, each of which has a latch-lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. The siding has good performance characteristics and aesthetic appearance. From positive qualities you can note:

• makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
• thanks to great choice panels, the house can be given an individual style;
• high-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
• installation can be done independently;
• is a safe material;
• when dirty, it is easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Poor quality and cheap siding burns out under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures, and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is made of several types:

1. Metal;
2. Vinyl;
3. Basement (fiber cement);
4. Acrylic;
5. Wood.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

• Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride and can mimic stone, wood, and brick finishes in appearance. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and decay. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and have a low cost, but are not resistant to mechanical stress.

• Acrylic siding is a new finishing material, and according to technical indicators almost the same as vinyl. At the same time, it is very durable, has a more resistant coating to UV rays. The panels have a long service life and are not deformed from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and non-flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - the high cost.

• Metal siding is steel, aluminum and galvanized. This material is strong, durable and safe for environment. The panels do not change their original shape with temperature changes and are resistant to oil and chemical substances. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. Metal siding has several disadvantages. When the protective coating peels off, rust forms on the panel. When it rains, there is a lot of noise. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

• Wooden siding or facade lining is the most environmentally friendly material and has excellent thermal insulation performance. Produced from coniferous and larch wood species. So that the panels do not darken and do not crack, they are applied protective covering. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

• Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. The outer side of the plate has special coating protecting against moisture and sun rays. The material is non-combustible, and also it does not rot or grow moldy. fiber cement siding resistant to mechanical damage and deformation. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. Service life - 25-50 years, depends on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of battens with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, it is necessary to make a reliable frame. The crate can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles. Attached to the walls with brackets. The racks of the crate are fixed opposite to the direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the crate is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making a crate:

1. The surface of the walls is prepared, drains and all protruding parts are removed.
2. If necessary, the walls are primed, wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic.
3. Using a level and a plumb line, places for attaching suspensions are outlined. They are placed every 40 cm, retreat from the edges of the walls by 15 cm, from inner corner- 10 cm.
4. Drill holes, insert dowels and mount U-shaped brackets.
5. Beams are fastened along the edges of the wall, a rope is pulled between them.
6. The remaining vertical beams are mounted.
7. In increments of 40 cm, horizontal metal profiles are installed.
8. Above the plinth, above and below windows and doors, horizontal elements of the crate are fixed with the help of a “crab” connector.
9. Mineral insulation is laid between the posts and under the crate, overlapped at the joints. It is attached to the wall with dowels-umbrellas.
10. The mineral wool and the crate are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are stacked on top of each other and glued with construction tape. Attached to the frame double sided tape and counter rails.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. Thermal insulation material it is put on suspensions and fixed with umbrella dowels, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and a crate is mounted for installing siding.

For regions with a warm climate, thermal insulation is not done, and for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starting bar

Before installation starting bar install drains. They are fixed with self-tapping screws with a distance of 40 cm between them. When docking, the ebbs are placed on top of each other. Overlap width - not less than 2.5 cm. even angle use the building level.

The starting or starting bar refers to the elements that carry the load. It is installed from the upper edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first sheet of siding is being installed on it. The initial bar is fixed, referring to the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starting bar:

• from the lower border of the future sheathing recede upwards by 4 cm;
• using a level, make marks on all vertical racks of the crate or make marks on the wall if there is no frame;
• the initial bar is set with the upper edge to the marks;
• fixed with screws in the middle of the factory holes;
• the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
• the same distance should be from the edges of the corner elements or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.

Why do you need a J-profile

• The J-profile is a versatile, load-bearing siding element. It happens ordinary, arched (flexible) and wide.
• The usual J-profile is needed to complete the facing row from the end of the wall, to sheath the edge of the eaves or to replace finish panel.
• Wide is usually used to decorate door and window openings.
• Arched is used along the edge of the opening, which has the shape of an arch. The panel has notches where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
• J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to install siding

Siding is fastened to the facade of the building or to the crate. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

• Vinyl panels must only be fixed to the factory holes.
• For wooden cladding it is recommended to use galvanized fixing fittings.
• The elements should be fastened evenly and straight, in the center of the factory hole.
• When fixing the siding to each other, they press it from the bottom up so that the top panel snaps into the lock of the bottom one.
• When installing the planks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the crate to expand the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load-bearing elements. Fastened after the starting profile. Designed to close and fasten the edges of the siding, they also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

• mount the panel so that its lower part protrudes 0.5-0.7 mm above the starting bar, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
• begin to fix the profile from top to bottom;
• the first self-tapping screw is screwed in at the top of the factory hole, the rest fasteners located in the middle of the holes;
• the distance between the screws is made 20 cm;
• to lengthen the corners, holes for fasteners are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the planks overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
• if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners are cut at the corner profile to the height of the starting strip;
• internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to lengthen siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathed wall, a connecting bar is placed horizontally to lengthen the panels. The connecting profile closes the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable, protects against precipitation under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful, and look like one whole.

You can also lengthen siding panels using the "overlap" method. Profile sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The overlapping length of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

H-profile installation

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to connect two horizontal panels sheathing, if the length of the wall over size facing material. It is also used when connecting soffit (cornice) siding.

The fastening of the connecting strip starts from the top of the wall. The first fastener is made in the upper part of the hole, the subsequent screws are twisted in the middle of the holes. The H-profile from the cornice should recede 0.5 cm, and be 6 mm below the starting bar. On both sides, the connecting profile has an indent of 0.6 cm from launch pads, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is inserted into the H-profile not to the stop, but to leave a gap of 5-6 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For a smooth and neat finish of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The first siding panel is inserted with the end side into the corner bar, and the lower part is inserted into the initial bend-lock and snapped into place. Then, if necessary, it is pulled up to align the horizontal row. Twisting the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. It is necessary to leave 5 mm between adjacent strips for thermal expansion.

Fasteners must not be fully screwed in. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. You cannot drag the profile up after interlock connection it will snap into place on the starting bar.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in a similar way - one side of the siding is placed in a corner groove, and the other in an H-profile or in opposite corner. The installed panel snaps into the lock of the previous one and is screwed to the crate.

Facing the facade with siding is mounted to the top of the wall, but so that there is room for the installation of the finishing strip and the last profile.

Siding finish strip

The finish line is decorative element, which is used for a beautiful and airtight finish on the top edge of the last panel. Mounted with the side with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel latching facing up.

The order of installation of the finishing strip:

• the bar is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the eaves;
• the distance from the top of the finishing bar to the installed panels is measured, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then the upper part is cut off from it;
• at the cut-off panel (without the upper part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
• for the prepared plank, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part is inserted into the lock fastening of the finishing panel and snapped into place.

Fasteners are screwed on the finish bar through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to siding around windows and doorways

Before sheathing the siding, the openings of windows and doors are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). around the perimeter inside windows (doors) fix the rails to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower window trims, the edges on the inside are cut by 2 cm, and bent in the form of "tongues". The upper and lower trim is inserted into the groove of the finish, then fixed with screws to the crate. When installing the side window trims, the "tongues" are brought inward.

If the width of the siding panel does not fit under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened to the desired depth along the width of the opening. At the cut point, holes are made for fasteners, which should match the factory ones in size. After that, the siding panel is slipped under the window element and fixed. Bottom window opening a low tide is installed, the upper edge of which rises from the window along its entire length. The width of the window tide should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

Above the window (door), the profile is mounted in the same way. For wall cladding on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they bring it under the platbands.

When wall cladding is made with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window slats is done after the installation of the panels.

Pediment sheathing

On final stage proceed to facing the pediment. If the attic will be used for living quarters, then the gable is insulated.

First prepare the roof overhangs and the end of the roof. Remove old sheathing, ebbs and wind boards. The roofing material is cut so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The crate under the gable siding is done in the same order as on the walls.

Gable siding installation:

• if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by a cornice, then the tide strips are mounted;
• along the perimeter of the pediment, J-slats are fixed or the starting one is below, and the finish one is above;
• corners are made from a metal profile and strips of external corners are installed;
• since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a siding trim is used as a template to apply cutting lines to it;
• the connection of the panels is done with an overlap or with the help of an H-bar;
• top - ridge siding sheet, fixed from above directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material- soffit. For the installation of panels, the edges of the cornice are sheathed on the inside with slats. J-strips are attached to them. Soffit siding is flexible enough that it can be easily installed with a slight downward bend and is wound into the grooves of the J-bar. A click is heard when the panel is correctly inserted. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The installation of roofing strips - drippers completes the cladding of the building. They are placed on the outside of the slopes.

You can install siding with your own hands. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. You should buy building materials in one batch at once, so that it is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated amount (for fitting). Additional elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.

You have decided to make the lining of your house, you have chosen siding panels as a finishing material, and now you are deciding for yourself the question of how to properly lay the siding. In this article you will find the answer to this question. In it, PVC siding or vinyl siding was chosen from several types of siding for consideration.

The point is that currently this species is chosen as a finishing material for facades in a little more than half of the cases of facade cladding with siding. And before you figure out how to properly lay siding, let's decide why vinyl siding.

Why vinyl siding

1. Beautiful, bright, attractive. After the facade of the house is finished with siding, the house looks very elegant and attracts the eye. Even those buildings that were built a long time ago will look like new.
2. Numerous design solutions . Vinyl siding comes in a variety of colors and shades. Combination various kinds siding, combination different colors and additional elements, will allow you to finish the facade on the topics: “I have, not like everyone else”, “better than my neighbor”, “I have long dreamed of this”.
3. Durability. Many years will pass and the facade, finished with siding, will look as if the decoration was done recently. Specially added components are able to preserve the structure of the siding panels and protect them from fading. Warranty period for the best varieties siding is up to 50 years old.
4. Withstands all weather conditions. The temperature range at which it can be operated is from -50 to +50 degrees. He is not afraid of water, snow, hail, wind, rodents and insects. Siding panels do not rot, do not darken near the ground, do not become moldy.
5. Able to hide construction errors. It happens that the wall material is not aesthetic, but in the event that the exterior siding is laid, this does not play any role. Under the siding sheathing, defects will not be visible.
6. The technology of laying siding is very simple.. The most important thing is to follow the instructions for laying the siding. To fasten the panels together, they have special locks, so installation is simple and quick.
7. Siding panels are very light weight. Therefore, additional strengthening of the walls and foundation is not required. And such work as DIY siding can be done by one person.
8. Unpretentious in operation. If plastered walls or natural materials require special care, such as plastering, tinting, impregnation with antiseptic and fire-fighting solutions. That siding panels are easily and quickly washed with water from a hose, and it is enough to do this once or twice a year.
9. Relatively low price. Taking into account the durability of the facade of vinyl siding, comparing with other finishing materials, we can say that the cost of such a finish is much lower.

Installation of vinyl siding

Surface preparation

In general, the installation of siding does not require thorough cleaning of the wall surfaces from the remnants of previous finishes, such as paint, plaster, etc. But before laying the siding, it is necessary to remove everything that can interfere.

This climbing plants, tree branches, drainpipes, lanterns on the walls, etc. You should also remove additional elements in the form of shutters, wind boards, decorative strips around windows, doors, drainage and corner boards.

If the facade is old, then mold, rot and fungi can form on it. To get rid of these not very pleasant things, the walls should be treated with special antiseptics.

Using a level or plumb line, you determine the quality of the verticality of the walls, as well as the verticality of window and door frames. Existing distortions should be eliminated whenever possible. The verticality of the walls is checked in order to find out where to start installing the crate, or at least to determine the distance from the plane of the crate to the walls.

Lathing installation

Mounting the siding panels directly to the wall is not recommended, as there will be no ventilation between the wall and the siding and therefore mold and fungi may appear. And because of the possible curvature of the walls, you can forget about how to properly lay the siding and how beautiful it will look.

The crate is a special frame attached to the wall, and the siding is already mounted on this frame. According to the type of material, two types of crates can be distinguished.

• Wooden crate.

It is the easiest and any wood with a moisture content of at least 12% is suitable for such a crate.

Attention: Our the main task- how to properly lay the siding, but if the wood is damp, then in the process of drying it can “lead”, and then the plane of the crate will not be even. To correct this shortcoming, the facade will have to be disassembled.

It is better to do a wooden crate if the walls are wooden, made of logs or timber, it is easier to fasten the bars and it is easier to adjust the distance to the wall. Wooden bars must be treated with fire-bio protection to extend their service life.

The distance between the bars should be about 40 cm, if the winds are especially strong, then it is worth reducing the step and making it equal to 20 cm. Well, the thickness of the bars is determined by the presence or absence of insulation.

• Lathing from metal profiles

The material for the walls of your house can serve as a brick, foam block or just concrete. Or as an option for insulation, more rigid frame, then it is possible to make a crate from special metal profiles with a galvanized surface.

To fix such a crate on the wall, the attachment points are marked, holes are drilled and special metal suspensions are attached to these holes with the help of dowel-nails. With the help of these hangers, you can easily adjust the distance from the plane of the crate to the wall.

The galvanized or anodized surface of the fasteners will avoid the appearance of unpleasant rusty streaks.

Of all possible ways cladding of cottages has gained the greatest popularity: it protects the walls from adverse weather phenomena, is durable, and gives individuality to the facades.

Siding a house is easy if you follow the rules. The article provides step-by-step instructions for lining different types siding, including metal siding.

Step 1: Choose your siding

There are many types of this popular finishing material. Siding happens:

• Metal - steel and aluminum coated with pural or PVC are produced in RAL colors, moreover different thickness panels, for external cladding it is necessary to choose panels with a thickness of 0.7 mm.
• Vinyl PVC, various widths, colors and imitation various materials(wood, brick, wild stone).
• Acrylic - also differs in color and texture, is considered to be of higher quality and more durable than vinyl, but it also costs more.
• Fiber cement - durable, resistant to temperature extremes, UV radiation, but due to its greater weight it requires a solid foundation (brick, blocks).
• Wood - lining or also varieties of siding, environmentally friendly, but less durable look finishing, requiring regular treatment with antiseptic and flame retardant.

When considering the cost of panels, homeowners are more likely to choose cheaper vinyl, although acrylic siding is not much more expensive and has better characteristics: it does not fade in the light, is more resistant to temperature changes, and is resistant to mechanical damage.

Let's focus on light fastness. According to this indicator, vinyl is inferior to all competitors, besides, some unscrupulous manufacturers save on expensive dyes, as a result, after a couple of years, the panels fade, and often unevenly - with spots.

TIP: it is better to clad walls with pastel-colored panels and white trim (for flashings, edging, spotlights, ebbs).

Good quality panels have the following characteristics:

1. Consistent geometry in thickness, length, width.
2. Uniformity of coloring without spots or stripes.
3. Integrity - panels should not have chips, cracks, stains.
4. Strength - all elements must be flexible and durable.
5. Certificate of conformity.

The most popular products domestic manufacturers vinyl siding:

• dock.
• Northside.
• Holzplast.AltaProfile.
• Grand Line.

When buying quality material, a conscientious seller will attach the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Step 2: Calculate material requirements

Before buying, you must determine the required amount of materials for cladding. To do this, you need to draw diagrams of all facades with the exact location of windows and doors, architectural elements and cornices, with dimensions and heights. If it is planned to insulate the house simultaneously with the cladding, it is necessary to add an allowance for the thickness of the insulation. On the diagram, it is necessary to mark areas with different colors.

Further, using geometry for grade 5 high school wall area is calculated different color for each facade, then the squares are added up. With a large number of windows and doorways their area is subtracted from total area lining.

In addition to wall panels, additional elements will be required for cladding:

• The starting bar is along the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors.
• Finishing rail along the perimeter of the house, taking into account the angle of the roof.
• Docking profile H-profile for connecting base panels with insufficient length.
• Angular outer profile- by the number of external corners of the house.
• Angular internal profile - in the presence of such angles in the plan.
• Soffit - a profile for filing cornices and gables, produced with perforation for ventilation of the roof insulation and without perforation.
• Plinth strip - provides protection for the protrusion of the plinth relative to the walls, equal in length to the starting strip.
• Low tide - along the length of window openings.
• Wide J-profile for trimming the slopes of windows and doors.
• Hinged profile - to protect the upper slope of windows and doors.
• Narrow J-profile is universal.
• Wind board for decorating the end of the cornice.

To hang the panels you will need a frame device. The frame can be made of timber if you plan to clad with vinyl, acrylic or wood siding, or galvanized profiles for metal or fiber cement siding.

When finishing a wooden house, the best option is a wooden frame; for buildings made of bricks or blocks, it is better to choose metal, since the service life of a wood frame is less than the service life of walls and a finishing profile.

To protect walls made of wood materials during cladding, it is necessary to perform wind and moisture insulation from a special film or PVC membrane, this will increase the durability of the building.

If you need to insulate the house, then at the same time you need to purchase the appropriate materials:

• Insulation - expanded polystyrene, mineral wool boards or mats.
• Adhesive composition for temporary fixing of boards or adhesive foam.
• Dowel screws with a metal core and a thermally insulated head - 5-6 pcs. per 1 m2.
• Vapor barrier film mounted between the wall and the insulation.
• Wind-proof film or super-diffusion membrane mounted on the outside of the thermal insulation.
• Self-tapping screws.

In the event that it is planned to clad an already insulated house, dowel screws are needed with a length that ensures fastening of the frame beams to the thickness of the walls by at least 50-70 mm.

For a wooden frame without insulation, bars with a size of 50x50 mm are selected, while installing the insulation, the thickness of the timber should correspond to the thickness of the insulation, it is possible to lay the insulation and frame in two layers, in this case the thickness of the timber will correspond to the thickness of each layer of insulation. The beam is mounted on the walls with a run-out of 30-40 cm. To calculate the need for lumber, it is better to first draw a second diagram in accordance with the facade.

For a counter-lattice (distance strips) that provide a ventilated gap between the wall / insulation and the cladding, a beam of 40x30 mm is needed.

IMPORTANT: before installation, treat all lumber with flame retardant and antiseptic.

For work you will need a tool:

• Plumb.
• Building level.
• Roulette.
• Cord or twine.
• Hammer.
• Drill with nozzles or screwdriver.
• Knife, scissors, hacksaw or jigsaw.

Don't Forget Funds personal protection: durable gloves and goggles; you will also need a ladder and scaffolding if the height of the house is more than 4 meters.

Step 3: Preparing the Foundation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the walls: remove the drainage system, lighting and cables, antennas, clean, if necessary, align the walls. The preparation method depends on the material of the walls of the house.

Preparation of wooden walls:

• Clearing from old paint, evaluation of the state of wood.
• In the presence of damage by a fungus, mold, insects - treatment of wood with special deep penetration compounds.
• Grinding.
• Dedusting.
• Caulking of intervents seams.
• Impregnation with flame retardant for 2-3 times on a dry basis.
• Impregnation with antiseptic for 2-3 times.
• Primer.
• Applying a protective compound.

Preparation of walls made of bricks or blocks:

• Cleaning of the paint layer, white spots, efflorescence, oil stains, mortar.
• Alignment of walls in the presence of recesses of more than 3 cm.
• With simultaneous insulation - adhesive primer.

Step 4: facing work

The work begins with a markup in kind, previously drawn on paper schemes.

PLEASE NOTE: A significant difference between the installation of insulation with a metal frame: frame holders are mounted on the walls, then insulation is performed by piercing a heat insulator and a moisture-windproof film on the holders, then bearing profiles are mounted.

The corners are installed first. vertical profiles metal frame or wooden crate. These elements must be mounted with great care. Wall irregularities are leveled by installing metal profiles at a distance from the surface or by laying bosses under wooden beam. Control the geometry with a level or plumb line.

After installing the corner elements, to simplify work on the basement of the walls, it is necessary to pull the cord strictly horizontally.

Next, mount the lower and upper horizontal frame profiles, then all vertical ones. Mount the holders of the drainage system and lighting. The insulation is mounted, covered with a moisture-proof membrane, which is attached with a stapler to wooden crate. The beam of the counter-lattice is fixed to create a ventilated gap.

After mounting the frame, a starting profile is installed. The accuracy of the lining largely depends on the quality of the installation of the starting bar. Then comes the installation of the finishing profile, connecting H-profiles, J-profiles for fixing the flashings around window and door openings.

Basic installation rules:

1. Installation of strips is carried out from the bottom up.
2. Do not tighten the self-tapping screw until it stops, there must be a play of 1 mm.
3. When installing the cladding in winter, provide for a gap for thermal expansion of materials, it is the larger, the higher the summer climatic temperatures.

Step 5: Finishing

After the cladding is completed, the drainage system is installed, Lightning equipment, antennas, outdoor units of air conditioners.

Conclusion

By adhering to these rules and the manufacturer's instructions, you can special efforts give your home a presentable look, protect walls from bad weather and create a comfortable indoor climate. Of particular importance are the preparatory work, high-quality preparation will allow you to quickly and professionally mount the cladding.