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Do you need a starter bar for siding. How to properly install siding

Siding installation can be done even by a person with no work experience. It is only important to follow the installation instructions and correctly place all the elements. The first step is to familiarize yourself with the features of such material as siding. On each of the panels there are special locks that can provide a secure connection. It is best to fasten the siding to the frame using self-tapping screws or regular nails. For these fasteners, special holes are provided in advance at the top of the panel.

Siding panels must be attached to the frame using self-tapping screws or nails.

To date, there are a large number of accessories on sale that can facilitate the installation process. In some cases, siding comes with instructions that explain in detail each of the stages of work.

How to install siding?

It implies compliance with all existing requirements. If the siding panels are mounted correctly, they will not be subjected to deformation in the event of strong winds, frost and frequent temperature changes.

General requirements for installing siding

Siding instructions.

When installing siding, the following conditions must be observed:

1. Siding is fixed exclusively on the prepared frame. Thus, it will be possible to perform additional insulation of the facade and provide a ventilation gap through which condensate will be discharged.
2. It is important to follow the correct sequence of actions during installation. First of all, it will be necessary to prepare the surface, then install the initial and final slats, platbands for openings, corners, and then all the other trims for finishing.
3. After that, the siding is installed from the bottom up.
4. It is important to take into account the possible expansion or contraction of the panels in case of temperature changes. When fixing all the parts, you will need to correctly calculate the tightening force of the fasteners. Leave a minimum of 1mm between the panels and the screws to allow the panels to move from side to side.
5. Vertical frame profiles should be placed at least every 30-40 cm.
6. At all gaps on the side of the structure, a minimum of 6 mm of space must be left for expansion and contraction. If the panels are mounted at a temperature of 5°C, then this distance must be increased to 9-10 mm.
7. In the process of fixing the panel, it is not necessary to press on it from above or below, because this leads to a change in the radius of the part and greater friction of the locks. Efforts must be applied from the bottom to the top until the lock catches on the bottom part.
8. Nails should be driven into the central part of the perforated holes. If a nail is driven into the end of the hole, the panel may be damaged. If it is not possible to install a nail in the central part of the hole, then you should increase the length of the hole by using a puncher.

Mounting tools

To install siding, you will need to purchase the following tools:

1. Hacksaw with small teeth for working with metal.
2. Roulette.
3. Building level.
4. Protective glasses.
5. Electric saw. Needed in order to be able to quickly cut the siding panels. If cutting is done in cold period time, in order to prevent cracking and breaking off of pieces of material, you should move the saw at a minimum speed.
6. Scissors for working with metal. With the help of such scissors it will be possible to increase the cutting speed and give the material the right dimensions and form.
7. Punch. It is used to break through the “ears” during the installation of siding under window openings or on top of the wall.
8. Perforator. With the help of such a tool it will be possible to increase the holes for the nails. This will need to be done so that the siding can contract and expand.
9. Siding removal tool.

Mounting materials

1. Main siding panel.
2. Soffit panel. It is used to hem overhangs of cornices and gables. You will need to purchase both solid spotlights and perforated ones. The latter are used in order to provide ventilation of the space under the siding, to prevent the accumulation of moisture and stagnation of hot air.
3. J-panels. Used to fix panels vertically. Are established around windows, doors, on joints of walls and eaves. With their help, you can quality finish the top of the pediment. Soffit panels are installed on the eaves using fastener panels.
4. Starting rail. Used to secure siding panels from the bottom row. At the end of the installation, it will need to be closed with other panels.
5. Final plank. With its help, it will be possible to complete the horizontal sections of the wall and fix the cut edge of the finishing strip. In openings, it is used in order to fasten the extreme part of the plank.
6. Connecting rail. Used to fasten siding panels. It can be used to enlarge .
7. Chamfer. It is used as a window or wind strip along with finishing and soffit panels.
8. corners. They are used to close and hold the ends of the panels at the corners. If necessary, two J-bars can be used instead.
9. Window rail.

Calculation of the required amount of siding

It is important to correctly calculate the following materials:

1. Siding panels. It is worth considering that approximately 10% of the material will be used in fitting and trimming.
2. Metal profiles CD and UD or wooden slats that will be used to build the frame.
3. Self-tapping screws and dowels that are used to secure the battens. It is worth knowing that for every 40 cm of the rail, 1 screw should be used.
4. Self-tapping screws with large caps. You need to proceed from the calculation of 1 self-tapping screw per 30 cm of the panel.
5. If you plan to further insulate a private house, then you will also need to perform the calculation of insulation boards.

1. When fastening, it is not necessary to pull the panels up or down by force.
2. The nail does not need to be driven in to the end, it is recommended to leave a gap of 1 mm between the profile and the head of the fastener. If the fastening is too tight, it can damage the siding if the temperature changes.
3. starts from the central part of the part.
4. Fasteners must be driven in straight so that the panels do not warp or bend.
5. Corners are attached above the uppermost holes.
6. The slats mounted on the wall must be able to move freely from side to side.

How is the hardware installed?

The sequence of installation of siding fittings.

Fittings are installed in the following order:

1. The first step is to mount the initial profile.
2. Next, the corners, J-shaped profile and the rest are installed.
3. After that, the siding panels are mounted.
4. At the end, the final rail is installed.

The mounting start point is defined as follows:

1. On any of the walls you need to determine Lower level.
2. Next, you need to drive a nail 8 cm above this level. A nail is also driven into the other corner of the wall.
3. A rope is stretched between the fasteners, after which it is leveled with a building level.
4. Chalk marks a straight line between the nails. This procedure is repeated around the entire private house.
5. The initial profile is set with the upper part on the intended line, after which it is nailed.
6. If there are depressions on the base of the wall, then a gasket must be installed under the initial profile so that there is no wave effect.

Corners can be installed in this order:

1. These fittings are mounted at the junction of two walls, the upper part of the corner should be 6 mm below the edge of the initial profile.
2. The first nails will need to be driven into the top of the nail hole. The corner will have to hang on hammered nails. This element must be installed exactly.
3. All other nails are set in the center of the holes every 20-25 cm.
4. If the corner in height is not enough, then another one is installed. Installation is carried out with an overlap. The first step is to redo the top corner. To do this, you need to cut 2.5 cm in height from the side to the middle front. Further, the upper corner is placed on top of the lower one with an overlap of 2 cm. There should be 5 mm gaps between the corners along the edges.
5. The distance between the side parts of the corners and the siding panels should be 6 mm, while it is important to leave a margin for possible expansion.
6. Next is the edging of the existing openings.

Trimming is done in the following order:

1. The planks at the top and bottom are cut so that they are longer than the width of the openings.
2. In the upper rail, channels are cut out for drainage from two ends. To do this, make an incision on the side of the rail and bend the “ear” down.
3. Next, a vertical cut is made at the bottom of the side rails. The “ear” folds inward so that water cannot enter the structure.
4. A cut is made in the corner in the upper parts of the side rails.
5. After that, these slats are overlapped with the top.
6. In the lower rail, a cut is made in the corner at both ends.
7. The lower rail starts under the side parts.

How is the installation of the final and near-window rails?

The final rail can be installed on top of other elements. The bar will need to be installed by pulling on either side of the window to the level of the outer edge of the J-profile. Over the openings, the final rail should be turned over.

In the process of finishing openings, instead of a J-shaped profile, a window rail can be used. It can completely cover the slopes. The structure is mounted in the same way as the J-profile. Inner part fixed with a finishing rail.

The hinged bar is installed between the facade of the building and the plinth. At the end, the bar is closed with a starting strip. On walls of great length, it will be necessary to install several drain strips, laying them on top of each other with an overlap of 1.5 cm.

If there are pipes or taps in the wall, then the siding must be adjusted under them. To do this, you need to cut out a part of the panel so that the element along the contour fits similar objects.

To remove damaged siding elements, you will need to smoothly slide a special siding removal tool over the lower part of the part that is located above the one to be dismantled. Next, the panel is unfastened from the lock of the damaged element. The upper part is slightly arched, after which the nails are removed. After that you can insert new panel and fix it. Finally, use the siding remover again to secure the top piece to the lock of the new panel.

Doing your own installation of siding panels is quite simple if you have everything necessary tools and materials and follow the correct sequence of actions.

Building facades with siding can be done by the homeowner himself if he follows the appropriate instructions explaining how to properly mount the siding.

Calculation of siding and fittings

Siding

Calculation of siding for a house - a good example

To make it more convenient to conduct, it is necessary to mentally divide the surface of the house into the simplest elements: triangles and rectangles. Now we do the following:

• For each rectangle, measure the width (height) and length in meters. We multiply the resulting numbers and get the surface area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis section of the surface of the house
• For triangles, you need to measure the length of the base and height. Multiply the values, and then divide the result by two - according to this formula, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe triangle is calculated
• Add up the calculated areas of all the areas into which you divided the surface of the building
• Calculate the total area of ​​openings (doors and windows) and subtract it from the total surface area of ​​your home
• Increase the resulting figure by 10% (just multiply it by 1.1). As a result of such simple manipulations, you have calculated the required amount of siding, taking into account the cost of trimming and fitting.
• To convert square meters to packs, divide the total area of ​​the siding by 0.98 (the area of ​​one standard sheet) and the number of sheets in a pack (10 pcs.)

accessories

The length of the starting and finishing strips is equal to the perimeter of the building plus 10% for trimming and fitting. The rest of the fittings are calculated according to detailed plan Houses. This calculation can be entrusted to specialists performing facade cladding work.

Preparing for installation

Facade cladding with siding attracts homeowners with ease of installation and high speed performance of work. But these statements are true only if the work is properly organized: all the material has been purchased, the tools have been prepared.

But that's not all: how to fix basement siding on high? Mounting siding from the stairs is definitely inconvenient (if not impossible). This means that the preparation of scaffolding will have to be included in the preparatory work. They can be built from wooden beams with a section of 150x59 mm. For less critical parts, a 100x50 mm beam will go. The flooring is made from boards. Its thickness is from 25 to 40 mm.

Still need to organize a place for cutting blanks. It is most convenient to cut the siding on the table.

Tool

To perform siding work, you will need:

• Saw - manual or electric (radial or easel) and panels with a fine tooth to it
• Hacksaw with fine teeth
• Square and tape measure
• Sheet metal shears
• Nail puller and hammer
• Awl, knife and screwdriver
• Punch for punching "lugs" along the edge of the siding for its fastening under windows and in the upper zone of the wall
• Perforator
• Level
• Protective glasses

Now we will analyze what screws to fix the siding with.

[сaution] To fix the siding, stock up on roofing steel nails. They can be replaced with aluminum heads with a diameter of 9.5 mm. The diameter of the nail rod must be at least 3 mm, and its length must be equal to the thickness of the entire sheathing cake plus at least 20 mm to enter the base (bearing wall).

Preparing the wall surface for cladding

• Dismantle the gutters lighting and other elements that may interfere correct installation siding
• Remove old window sills
• Remove old putty from around window frames, sills, and other surfaces.
• Prepare the walls especially carefully, if the house is old, all rotten wood must be removed, weakly fixed elements should be nailed
• In many private courtyards, bushes grow close to the house, and tree branches knock on the window. Of course, they will interfere with installation facade decoration. But do not rush to take up the ax: take better pieces of rope and tie the unruly branches. In this way, you will expand the space for work and do not damage green spaces

Find out more about decorating the front of your home. The plinth, or the face of your home, requires special attention. Learn more and the result will meet your expectations.

Still choose siding for the facade? - Types of siding for house cladding are presented in detail. Here you will definitely find perfect solution for your home.

crate

A rail is suitable for the device of the crate wooden section 40x60 mm. They are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. The rail can be replaced with a galvanized profile. The step of the crate is from 30 to 40 cm. If the house is located in a strong wind zone, the step is reduced to 20 cm.

Around the openings of windows and doors, in places where lamps are installed and other elements are suspended, at all corners of the building, an additional crate is arranged along the top and bottom of the sheathing. The rail is located vertically, horizontal struts are not placed - they will lead to a clear deterioration in the ventilation of the under-siding space.

Wall insulation

Traditionally, insulation is placed under the siding. In this case, the thickness of the lath of the crate should exceed the thickness of the insulation by 15 - 20 mm. Due to this difference, a guaranteed gap between the siding and the heat-insulating layer will be provided. After installing the insulation on the crate, it is strengthened waterproofing layer, and only after that proceed to the installation of siding.

Setting the starting strip

Chalk mark the bottom level of the siding installation. It should be 75 - 80 mm from the level of the blind area. Now set the start profile to the chalk markings with the top edge and nail it. Between the profile sections and the corner (internal or external) a gap of 6 mm must be observed, designed to compensate for the expansion of the siding.

Hardware fixing

The general concept of "fittings" combines into a group a variety of elements designed for the convenience of attaching the siding to the wall. This group includes near-window strips, spotlights, moldings, external and internal corners, etc. All of them are attached in a certain way, specified by the manufacturer's instructions.

Installation of external corners

External corners are mounted on the corners of the house. The lower edge of the first element is set 6 mm below the starting strip. A gap of 6 mm is also left between the eaves and the upper edge of the last corner. If you subsequently plan to hem the cornice overhang with a soffit, increase this gap by its thickness.

Installation of J-bars around openings (doors and windows)

Photo of fastening the J-bar around the window

For joining wall cladding with door and window openings, a J-bar is installed around them. To do this, in the bottom of the bar, located horizontally above the opening, an eyelet is cut out and lowered down. Then the bent front of the bar is cut at an angle of 45 degrees. At the vertical strips, a rectangular cutout is cut out in the bottom (its depth is 20 mm). After that, all the frame elements are connected at the junction.

Siding installation

Visual instruction: how to fix siding correctly

Installation of siding panels is carried out in the direction from the bottom up. You need to start working from the rear facade of the house towards the main one, then the overlaps will not spoil the front view.

Connection points must be displaced relative to each other. The minimum distance between the joints is 100 cm in the horizontal direction and at least two rows in the vertical direction. overlap horizontal panels is 225 mm. Excessive overlap of the panels restricts movement and damages them.

[сaution] On area 112 square meters takes about a week. Preparatory work(with the installation of insulation and installation of the crate) take about 4 days. Siding can be mounted in three days of full-fledged work.

Video how to fix siding

Pneumatic tools adapted for siding fastening significantly speed up the installation process. The video shows in detail how to fix vinyl siding quickly and easily.

Before the beginning siding installation make up good drawing, it will help you accurately calculate the consumption of materials and avoid mistakes during cutting and installation.

Fundamental rule: siding panels and fasteners during installation DO NOT FIX HARD! Rectangular slots are provided on the panels, the nail must be driven into the middle of the hole and not driven to the end (to allow free movement of the panel, which is necessary to compensate for thermal expansions).

If you have any questions during the installation of siding, do not hesitate to call us and we will be happy to help you. If you wish, we will calculate the amount of materials for free, for this you can drive up to us with a drawing, send it by fax, or call a measurer.

Basic siding accessories

Starting rail - used to fasten the bottom row of siding panels to the wall.

G-rail- used when installing siding to install panels and fix them in a vertical plane - around windows, doors, openings, at the junctions of the wall and cornice, sometimes corners, as well as for neat finishing of the top of the pediment. Provides a finished look. It is also used to install Soffit panels on the eaves (under the roof peak) and on the porch and porch peak.

Finishing rail- used when sheathing the walls of the house with siding for fastening the upper trimmed (to size) row of panels.

outside corner- used when installing siding to vertically fasten panels at external corners and provide a high-quality appearance. Can be replaced by two Jay Chenals if desired, although the appearance will be different.

Inner corner- Used in siding installations to vertically fasten panels to inside corners and provide a high quality appearance. Very often, in order to save money, it is replaced by two Jay Chenals, without losing appearance.

Necessary for the installation of siding tools and equipment

Nails- when installing the siding, only galvanized nails with a wide hat are used (aluminum nails can be used). The length of the nail must be at least 4.5 cm.

Tools- hammer, tape measure, chalk, level, knife, plumb line, metal shears, hacksaw, square, circular saw with a fine tooth.

Stairs and scaffolding- it is convenient to carry out the installation of siding, using special scaffolding, however, this possibility is rare, you can also use the stairs, however, when using ladder, it is necessary to prevent breakage of the installed siding in the places where the stairs rest against the wall.
Transportation and storage of siding:

When transporting the siding, make sure that the panels and packages are securely fastened along the entire length. You need to store the siding on flat surface without bending. Do not stack more than 10 packages one on top of the other. Do not store siding in hot areas.

1) Installation of siding sheathing, siding fasteners.

Siding panels are mounted on the crate. For the crate, use wooden bars or edged boards.

bar 40 x 50 mm, crate pitch 300 mm

edged board 100 x 30 mm, batten pitch 400 mm

Fasten the siding elements to the crate with self-tapping screws with a press washer (length 25 mm). Install the self-tapping screws in the middle of the groove.

Note: If additional wall insulation is required for the crate, use a bar. Place the insulation in the space between the bars.

The key to quality and successful siding installation is careful preparation basics. The smoother the surface (or stuffed crate for siding), the better the result. The material for the crate should be selected with great care, rejecting raw and crooked material. Attention! Siding is not capable of bearing mechanical load, its purpose is to give a magnificent appearance prefabricated walls, therefore it cannot be used as a substitute for the load-bearing material of an external wall. Siding can be mounted on a crate stuffed with finished wall, also on chipboard, hardboard, wooden wall. Need to pay Special attention for the absence of curvature near the wall, when mounted on a curved surface, the slightest unevenness will be visible, so if you even have wooden walls, but curvature is noticeable, you must use the same crate. It is also necessary to pay attention to the correct angles of doors and windows.

2) Setting the initial strip vinyl siding.

Siding installation: initial strip.

Determine the lowest point of the wall of the house.

Step back from it up 77 mm and beat off a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the house (use a water level and a string).

Set the start strip below this line.

3) Installation of corner siding elements and edging.

Mount the outer and inner corner pieces of the siding. Lower the lower edge of the corner elements 6 mm below the level of the lower edge of the initial strip. During installation, hang the corner elements with the upper groove on the self-tapping screw, install the remaining self-tapping screws in the middle of the grooves.

Mount around openings (windows, doors) edging or trim. Docking elements can be done as under right angle, and at 45 degrees.

4) Installation of siding wall panels.

Start the installation of siding wall panels from the initial strip - up.
Join the panels in an "overlap" or using an H-molding. When joining in an "overlap" position the panel joints in a checkerboard pattern. Overlap of siding panels - 25 mm.

5) Installation of the finishing rail or finishing strip.

Before installing the last wall panel of the siding at the top, install a finishing strip at the top of the wall.

Undercut wall panel siding to the desired width. Mount the siding wall panel by clamping the cut edge into the finishing strip.

6) Hemming of the cornice or roof overhangs.

file the roof overhangs with siding, using special accessories, according to one of the following schemes:

Detailed siding installation technology

To achieve a quality siding installation, pay attention to the technique of attaching panels and elements to the base. Almost all problems are caused by non-observance of these simple rules.

Always start nailing from the middle of the siding panel, working towards the edges. Never drive the nail to the end, leaving the panel to move along the oval holes, and drive the nail into the middle of the hole. NEVER drive nails into the siding panel itself, without a hole.

When nailing a vertical element, drive in the topmost nail so that the panel hangs freely on it, then drive the rest into the center of the holes. Avoid both excessively tight fastening and dangling panels.
Never insert the panels into the gap between the vertical fasteners, always leave small (5-10 mm) gaps.

Trimming panels when installing siding:

Cross cutting is carried out circular saw, at low air temperatures, special care must be taken. Longitudinal cutting is carried out using sharp knife. Corner cutting and difficult places carried out with scissors for metal. When cutting, it must be taken into account that when joining panels, an overlap of 2.5 cm is required.

Installation of siding panels

Marking line- for the correct installation of the siding, it is necessary to apply horizontal marks that are on the same level using a level. According to these marks, the Starting rail is set.

Starting rail- Attach the top edge of the starting rail to the marking marks, at a distance of 16 cm from the corners of the building. Nail her to the wall. When attaching several starting strips, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-7 cm between them.

outside corner- the upper end of the outer corner should be 6 cm from the top edge of the wall, and the lower end 2 cm below the starting rail. Fastening begins with driving the top nail, in all other holes the nail is driven into the center of the hole, the nails are driven at a distance of 40 cm from each other.

Inner corner- installation of the inner corner is similar to the outer one. You can also use one or two J-rails.

Installation of contours around doors and windows- for mounting elements around the openings, you can use both a J-rail (narrow casing) and a decorative (wide) casing.

1. Roof edge installation- Where the siding meets the roofline, such as where a gable or secondary side wall meets the roofline, install the G-Rail at a distance of 1.5-2.5cm from the roofline. Before installing the J-rail, process the junction for better waterproofing.
2. Installation of the first siding panel- the panels are installed with an overlap, while the installation starts from the least noticeable place (like wallpaper). For example, on the front side from the corners of the house to the door. On the side walls from the far corner to the near one. The overlap of the siding panels is 3 cm.

Installing the remaining siding panels- It is necessary to avoid uneven arrangement of seams of joints. The joints of the siding panels, arranged in a checkerboard pattern, look pretty nice. When nailing a new panel, make sure there is no slack at the other end of the panel.

Installation of siding panels with narrow openings between windows- leave the J-rail not nailed on top, bend slightly to insert the panel. Once the panel is in place and nailed down, nail down the G-rail.

Fitting siding panels at the top of the gable- during installation, use a template that duplicates the gable bevel. Use this template when cutting the panels so they rest against the top of the gable.

Installing trimmed siding panels- insert the siding panel with the edge cut off under the bevel of the gable into the J-rail along the edge of the gable. Leave room for panel expansion. Hook onto the bottom panel of the siding. If the last top panel needs to be fixed securely, nail it as shown.

3. Trimming and installing the final siding panel- Install the G-rail and Finishing rail under the Soffit line to complete the siding installation. Measure the distance from the Soffit to the last panel. Subtract 0.6 cm. Make a mark on the last panel to be cut, measuring from the bottom edge of the panel. For a more precise cut, repeat the procedure at several points to draw the cut line. Using a special perforator, make hooks at a distance of 0.6 cm from the top edge, at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. Hook the cut siding panel into the bottom panel, then slide the cut edge into the Finishing Lath. Since you won't be nailing the last panel, the hooks will ensure a secure fit.

Hemming cornices with soffit- the order of installation of the soffit panels depends on the design of the roof canopy. In most cases, trimmed saddle panels can be used to save money (you can save up to 10% on the cost). When passing a corner, use two J-Racks mounted back to back.

Chamfer- Chamfer panel is cut to fit your windboard. Having marked and cut off the Chamfer, make hooks on it with a special puncher along the cut line. Nail the Finishing Lath along the top edge of the board. Insert the Chamfer panel with the perforated side into the Finishing Strip. Then nail the bottom of the Chamfer. To finish the corners, you must use the corner element made in advance.

is modern facing material for finishing buildings with a wide range colors and invoices.

It performs several main functions:

1. decorative, as it has an impeccable appearance due to the variety of textures and shades.
2. Protective: from the impact of various weather phenomena, the external environment.
3. insulation: if there thermal insulation material between frame rails.

Siding panels are made from various materials: wood, steel, cement, ceramics, vinyl.

Vinyl siding has gained particular popularity in construction market due to low price, durability, decorative properties and quality features:

1. Frost-resistant.
2. Does not need special care.
3. Wear resistant and durable.
4. Easy to install.
5. Easy to transport thanks to small size and weight.
6. Environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
7. Does not corrode.
8. UV resistant.

The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can use it in house cladding without inviting specialists, with your own hands.

How to fix?

Fastening panels is recommended with galvanized or aluminum nails, staples to wood, but practitioners often use self-tapping screws that are convenient to work at height with a screwdriver and a magnetic nozzle. The main thing is corrosion resistance, otherwise, over time, the look will be spoiled by rusty spots.

The procedure for installing panels is as follows:

1. Plinth lining and drainage installation. The house may have a plinth in the same plane with the wall or protruding. For the second option, you need a rain tide, which can be made from a siding drain strip, a galvanized corner or a metal-plastic corner. First, the corner is processed, the joint is sealed with silicone. An ebb is installed from the corners, with an overlapping joint of the planks. Below, at low tide, a rigid rail is attached along the entire length of the base. Using the level, a strictly horizontal line is checked. It is advised to make a low tide around the entire perimeter of the house.
2. Installation start profile . launch pad at the bottom of the plinth is required, since the rigidity and appearance of the entire cladding structure depend on it. First, you need to mark the lower level of the skin in one of the corners. Then, 4 cm higher, drive a nail. The same is done in the other corner of the wall. A line is outlined, which along the perimeter is drawn around the house with similar markings. The edges of the nail strips are marked on the crate. The upper edge of the starting profile is set along the marking line. The starting line must be strictly horizontal. Further, it will be hidden by subsequent panels.
3. At the plinth interface and the main facade, it is possible to install a border, which will become the basis of the next row.
4. Installation of corner panels. Corner profiles are attached immediately after the completion of the starting line. The panels are overlapped to protect the joint from water ingress. It is necessary to ensure that the junction is at the same level in all corners. The main fastener pitch is 2-2.5 cm. The fasteners are made in the center of the holes and are not recessed to the limits.
5. Decoration of door and window openings. Special near-window J-profiles with a shelf for finishing slopes are used. Finishing profiles are attached around the perimeter. In deep niches, conventional sheathing is possible using corner profile. Under the window opening, ordinary panels are cut to the width of the window, taking into account the required clearance.
6. Installation of facade elements. Ordinary panels are attached from the starting strip. Do not forget about the gaps on both sides of the profile. Every third row is recommended to control the horizontal level.
7. Roof overhangs and gable. For finishing with perforation. This allows the roof to be ventilated. Spotlights are fastened after 30 cm. J-profile or corner is used in the design of the pediment.
8. Siding joint. The service life and appearance of the building depends on the correct docking. Consider:
   • General starting rule: join the horizontal arrangement of the siding from the bottom up, and the vertical one - from the corner or the center line of the wall.
   • With temperature fluctuations, the deformation occurs not in the width, but in the length of the panels. Therefore, play at the joints is required.
   • When mounting, do not put pressure on the profile, do not stretch, do not allow rigid docking.
   • Profile fixation is carried out from the middle of the bar to the edges with a horizontal arrangement, from top to bottom - with vertical fasteners.

Despite general rules and the order of work, each type of siding has some of its own characteristics:

1. On vinyl siding the largest thermal expansion: one panel, 3 m in size, changes length by 10-12 mm with temperature changes. Metal siding is not subject to deformation.
2. When cutting metal siding strong heating should not be allowed, as the polymer layer along the edge is destroyed, and over time rust will appear there.
3. On cold days, vinyl panels cannot be cut with a knife or scissors - there will be cracks along the cut line.
4. Fastening need to be done on a metal crate, since wooden guides near the ground will quickly become unusable.

Cladding accessories and surface preparation

Main components include:

1. Start profile. In order to stiffen the bottom row, not a vinyl, but a steel panel is attached. Placed at the very bottom of the skin so as to remain hidden. The launch panel can be trimmed, leaving a part with perforation and a receiving lock.
2. J profile. It is used for decoration of windows and doorways, closes the side edges of the panels on the facade, can be used as a finishing profile in places where corners other than 90 0 are joined.
3. Angle profile. It is intended for docking of panels both on external, and internal corners.
4. H-panels. They serve as a connection if the length of the sheet does not allow the wall to be completely closed. Connection of two J-profiles is possible.
5. Finishing panels. Used to complete the wall cladding of a building. Close the last siding profiles.
6. Soffit panels. Serve for decorative finishes cornices, fastened with a J-profile.

Additionally, ventilation vents and other possible accessories made of the same material as are required.

Surface preparation includes the following necessary work:

1. Weed clearing, dirt, etc.
2. Dismantling decorative ornaments , platbands, window sills, shutters, etc.
3. wooden walls check for the presence of rotten elements, remove and treat with an antiseptic.
4. Treat with sealant places of possible moisture penetration: cracks, cracks, pipe insertion points, etc.

In order to create thermal insulation and reduce the load on the walls, the sheathing is fastened to the prepared crate. It is impossible to mount the profile on walls, even fairly flat ones.

Lathing installation

Wooden crate device

If the new wooden walls are perfectly even, the crate is not made. But this happens very rarely. For stone and block surfaces, lathing is required. Its installation is necessary to ensure the support of the siding in one plane.

The frame of the crate keeps free space between the wall and the sheathing, which allows you to keep warm in winter, and in summer - protect you from overheating.

The material for the crate is selected depending on the type of surface:

1. On wooden walls – wooden bars.
2. On stone walls - wooden beams, PVC slats or galvanized profile.
3. on brick and concrete walls - galvanized profile.

The procedure for making the crate is as follows:

1. With a level and a tape measure you need to outline straight lines around the perimeter of the wall until a closed contour is obtained.
2. Wall-mounted starting from the corners, vertical guides are attached. If necessary, pieces of wood or foam can be used to seal. The installation step is 30-45 cm.
3. Guides, you need to add in places of additional load on the panel, around windows and doors.

1. Do not connect vertical rails horizontal slats to keep ventilation under the siding.
2. Dry the wooden crate well to avoid warping, treat with flame retardant and antiseptic.
3. Use stainless nails.

At the same time, it is possible to insulate the building with foam, glass wool or polyethylene, while maintaining the ventilation space. Therefore, the thickness of the timber or laths of the crate must be greater than the insulation layer. Moisture must not be allowed to accumulate behind the siding panels to prevent the appearance of fungus or mold.

1. Do not cut a large amount of profile, relying on preliminary calculations. Errors are possible. Therefore, it is better to prepare the material in parts, for each section separately.
2. Do not drive nails through the siding panel or screw in screws. Use only the designated holes.
3. In panel fastening, use nylon washers - will provide resistance in strong winds.

Finishing with siding is the second life of a house that has retained its strength and received a new aesthetic look.