Do-it-yourself siding. Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing siding with illustrations. Useful video on how to fix vinyl siding
Overhaul houses or the construction of a new building also implies its external decoration. A modern wide range of materials and technologies allows you to realize any design solution and wishes of the owner of the house. Very often, the owners choose this option, how to fix the siding on the facade. This comparatively new material quickly gained popularity in construction market due to its excellent qualities and benefits.
What is siding
Siding is modern material for exterior wall cladding. It performs two functions - utilitarian and aesthetic. Siding protects buildings well from the effects of natural factors - rain, snow, sun, wind, and also serves as an excellent decor for house facades. Today it is one of the most popular materials for sheathing in the construction market.
When building or repairing a building, the exterior finish can be entrusted to specialists. However, this is a fairly simple process and it is quite possible to perform it yourself. You will find recommendations on how to properly fix siding in the article below.
Material Advantages
Siding has many advantages over such types of cladding as plaster, stone, lining. It is durable, resistant to adverse weather conditions and moderate physical impact, does not corrode and rot. Non-flammable, environmentally friendly, non-toxic. Such sheathing does not close the walls tightly and allows them to "breathe". In addition, heat-insulating material can be laid between the frame rails, which will insulate the building and reduce the cost of heating the house during the cold season.
The material has no big weight, easy to transport. How to fix siding? Its installation is very simple, only the presence of a tool and minimal skills is required. It is good in operation, does not require updates and painting, retains its original shape and color for a long time. When dirty, you can simply rinse the walls with water from a hose.
Types of siding by material
A wide range of types, colors and textures allows everyone to choose the cladding for the house to their taste and budget.
According to the material of manufacture, siding is divided into several types:
- wood;
- vinyl;
- metal;
- cement;
- ceramic.
There are several mounting technologies for each type. You can choose the most suitable method for yourself, how to fix metal siding, wood, vinyl and others.
Siding structures
By design and preferred location, siding is divided into the following types:
- Basement. It looks like rectangular panels. The colors are dark, non-staining, the texture is like a stone or brick. Moisture resistant. How to fix basement siding? The procedure is simple and does not require special skills.
- Front. It is used for facing directly the facades themselves. It has a wide range of colors and textures of natural or artificial materials. Types of forms - "ship board", "M" and "W".
- Ceiling. Designed for covering ceilings in closed or open spaces and structures - garages, terraces, gazebos.
- Insulated. It has complex structure from several layers - 1 or 2 layers of thermal insulation, metal bearing base, decorative coating. It is used for additional insulation of the house.
Each of them has its own advantages, disadvantages and priority areas of application. How to fix the siding on the wall, you can learn from our instructions.
Colors and textures
A wide range of matte and shiny siding colors allows you to realize any design solution. It is resistant to fading, which allows you to use not only pastel colors for facade cladding, but also bright ones. rich colors. The most commonly used colors are white, grey, beige, yellow, brown, blue, red, green in all shades.
Types of textures are also different - the usual smooth, wood, brick or stone. Simple siding can be glossy or matte. Made under such artificial and natural stones like marble, brick, granite and others. The wooden texture happens under a bar, a log, a block house. How to fix the siding so that it looks beautiful and original? You can use horizontal, diagonal, vertical mounting technology. It is also possible to combine different types material and several ways of fastening.
Calculation of the required amount of material
In the instructions on how to properly fix the siding, the first step is to calculate the required amount of material and additional elements that will be required for this. Initially, it is better to make a schematic drawing of each of the walls of the building, marking all the dimensions on it. Then it's better to break the surface into geometric figures, calculate the area of each of them and calculate total amount. Then you need to subtract the areas of all window and doorways. This will be the required area of \u200b\u200bthe material. With the help of the drawing, it will also be possible to distribute the use of scraps.
It is also necessary to calculate the number of metal profiles and screws. The number of finishing strips (edging rails, outside corners, starting lanes). To do this, the perimeter of the house is calculated, the length of the gables and cornices, the perimeter of windows and doors are measured, the length of all corners is summed up. Should be purchased more material and accessories to prevent force majeure situations.
How to fix siding
After the required amount of siding and additional elements has been calculated, and all materials have been purchased, it is necessary to prepare the tools for work:
- roulette;
- metal ruler and square;
- electric jigsaw or hacksaw with small teeth;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- hammer;
- pliers;
- level;
- plumb;
- carpenter's pencil;
- chalk and twine.
When all the tools are at hand, you can begin the preparatory work. How to fix basement siding and other types of this material? To begin with, scaffolding is established. Then the walls are cleared of interfering branches of nearby trees and climbing plants. It is necessary to remove the lanterns, drainpipes, shutters, external window sills, corner boards, planks between the walls and the foundation. If mold is found on the walls, it must be removed and the surface treated with an antiseptic. The distortion of window and door frames should be eliminated.
Before attaching the siding to the foam or other material (the algorithm of actions is the same in all cases), you need to mount the crate. Metal profiles are installed at the corners and along the perimeter of window and door openings. The crate can be made of metal or wooden slats. The distance between the rails should be no more than 1.5 meters. They are vertically fastened with self-tapping screws or dowel nails to the walls, controlled by the level and plumb. Insulation is laid between the racks.
Then the starting strip and outer corners are strengthened, after which the panels pre-cut to size are screwed, starting from the bottom. Each subsequent row of panels is attached only after it has been made full installation the previous one. The top row interlocks with the bottom row, and on the other side is attached with self-tapping screws.
The procedure for cladding a house with siding is very simple. Read the instructions carefully or consult with experienced professionals, and you will make the exterior of your home simply magnificent.
Siding is a dry type of exterior finish and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially those made of foam concrete and sandwich panels. Her a light weight will not have a significant load on the foundation, so this cladding is also used on old wooden houses.
The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, simple care, excellent protective properties and a wide choice of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can give a modern look even to an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.
Tools and materials
Before sheathing a house with siding, you should check for the following tools:
- or saw with fine teeth, metal scissors,
- screwdriver and screwdriver
- hammer,
- tape measure, square and level (laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
- a stepladder, the height of which will be enough to reach the roof of the house.
Siding manufacturers offer a complete set of elements and panels for house cladding, even of complex configurations. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate the required number of certain parts, a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.
Knowing some points will help to control or verify the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:
- Outer corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using whole elements for each outer corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when docking. Corners are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
- Internal angles are calculated according to the same principle. If the roof eaves will be trimmed with siding, internal corners are also used at the points of its connection with the wall. In cases where the eaves were finished earlier or will not be done at all, a finishing strip is used.
- To finish the cornice, elements such as spotlights and a wind board are used.
- Required length starting bar equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
- At the connection sites of extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
- The perimeter of the windows is sheathed with a window strip, it must be taken with a margin so that the docking points are not visible. Also, to frame windows, ebbs are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
- A drain strip or ebbs are installed around the perimeter of the basement if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
- If the length of the wall of the house is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of siding panels - the connection is made using an H-profile. It is necessary to think over the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building are maintained.
- The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated by the formula: "((the area of \u200b\u200ball the walls of the house - the area of \u200b\u200bwindows and doors) / panel area) * 1.10". A margin of 10% is needed for trimming and scrap costs.
- For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. about 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a margin. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, from which there will definitely not be rusty smudges in a few years.
Preparatory work
Before siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Close up or mounting foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics, foam concrete walls can be treated with a primer deep penetration.
Lathing installation
The first step is to mount the crate from a metal profile or wooden slats, since it is absolutely impossible to mount the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD-profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use slats 60 * 40 mm with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.
Using a tape measure and a level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. In the future, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.
Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to achieve their snug fit to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where the siding will have an additional load, such as street lamps, as well as around corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. Vertical rails should not be connected to anything so that there are no obstructions to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to mold.
Waterproofing and insulation
for wooden, aerated concrete walls installation is required, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, it is worth giving preference to a moisture-windproof membrane. If insulation is not being done, then the film is fixed directly on the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for the ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then the crate is re-built to provide a gap for ventilation.
Fastening guide elements
Installation begins with the installation of a drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. This is a rigid structure and is easier to fix evenly than a flexible starting bar. Then the turn of the corner profiles. They must be firmly fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.
If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be overlapped on the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. After that, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached on top of the drainage. It should be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.
Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer lower edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be cut at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped by laying the top planks on the side ones.
At vertical installation H-profiles in predetermined places, a level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the eaves and plinth so that the planks do not bend when expanding. Under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends, the finishing bar is mounted.
Panel installation
When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below, at the top the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws in the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. Do not pull the panel up and fix it rigidly, it should go a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished with a finishing bar.
What should be taken into account?
Rule number 1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be rigidly fixed. The material from which they are made shrinks when cold and expands when heated, fluctuations in length can reach 1%. This is what caused the elongated shape of the mounting holes. Fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the cap. If this rule is violated, the siding can simply burst with strong heat.
Rule number 2. There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the slats and the guides (less when installed in hot weather) so that the siding does not buckle when expanded. When sheathing a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.
Rule number 3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at temperatures below -10 degrees, the elements can crack when cut, so you should be careful and use a grinder.
With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.
Siding is a modern, promising, cost-effective direction in building decoration various types. The main mission of facing is protect the walls from the outside from the damaging effects natural factors, as well as to give them a special flavor and presentability.
Sheathing the facades of buildings with siding does not require large labor costs from the performers. The event can be performed using the simplest building tools and in relatively short time.
Varieties of material
Siding materials are: vinyl, metal, PVC, wood and cement.
If desired, the masters can successfully create an imitation other popular materials for home decoration. Depending on the main material, experts distinguish several varieties of siding.
Vinyl
In fact, these are PVC panels that can successfully imitate wood, stone or brick sheathing.
Advantages:
- affordable price;
- light weight structures;
- vinyl cladding will last more than 50 years;
- a huge variety of textures and colors;
- absence of toxic substances;
- resistance to deformation and cataclysms;
- operating temperature: -50–+50 °C.
In order to avoid possible deformation of the material, the coefficient of expansion must be taken into account when installing the nodes.
Wood
If it is assumed that wooden siding will be used for facing country houses, then it is additionally treated with special antiseptics under high pressure conditions.
Advantages:
- high level of thermal insulation;
- presentability;
- environmental friendliness.
Sheathing a building with wood siding is an expensive undertaking. Wherein given material requires special attention and special care.
Metal
Such cladding is made of steel, aluminum or zinc. For finishing country houses with metal siding it is preferable to use aluminum, which can be painted under a tree.
Advantages:
- strength;
- durability;
- lack of microflora;
- resistance to sudden temperature changes.
Metal siding is subject to deformation and corrosion processes.
cement
The main production material is high-quality cement, to which cellulose is added. This type of lining able to qualitatively replace the decorative stone.
Advantages:
- fire resistance;
- reliability and durability;
- resistance to moisture and ultraviolet;
- ease of restoration;
- no rotting and mold formation processes.
The disadvantage of cement siding is considered large weight of the source material, which complicates the installation work.
Read also about facade panels for exterior decoration of the house.
Which siding to choose?
If as building material timber was used or solid log, then for sheathing an erected log house it is best to use vinyl siding.
PVC panels reliably protect the building from adverse weather conditions.
They are quite light, so do not create additional load to the foundation. Plastic panels easy to install and wash. This cladding will significantly extend the service life. wooden house and give it a unique appearance. If you sheathe the old wooden house this will give it a fresh look.
Wooden siding is ideal for sheathing a frame house. This type of cladding looks really expensive and spectacular. sheathing installed very quickly. The panels can be installed both vertically and horizontally.
Excellent breathability and no toxic fumes- main advantages wood siding. For cladding frame house experts recommend purchasing beech, spruce, pine or larch wood panels.
As for the brick building, when choosing a finishing material, the purpose of the building should be taken into account. If this is an industrial building, then it is best to finish with metal siding. Residential brick house Better off with vinyl siding. He allows you to successfully simulate other expensive materials.
For finishing houses made of foam blocks and aerated concrete, you can successfully use vinyl, metal, as well as basement siding. Ease of installation as well excellent performance characteristics installed panels will help to ennoble the facade of the house, it will look beautiful and stylish.
A high-quality frame for siding, where insulation is necessarily present, can significantly reduce heat loss and improve the waterproofing of the building.
Features of quality siding:
- Same panel thickness. Such a lining will not be deformed and will serve the owner of the building as long as possible.
- The presence of a uniform layer of paint. If the panel is painted unevenly, then most likely, low-grade raw materials were used in the production process. Such panels do not withstand mechanical loads, quickly lose their color and deform with temperature fluctuations.
- Surface structure. There are no chips, stains or cracks on high-quality panels. They shouldn't loosen up.
- Plastic. All parts of the skin are required to demonstrate flexibility and strength.
- Availability of certificates. When purchasing material for facing a house, feel free to ask for a quality certificate. The document must contain, certified by the seal, the conclusions of experts that confirm the fire resistance and hygiene of the product.
How to calculate the required amount?
A competent calculation of the amount of material required in order to sheathe a house or a summer house will allow you to predict the total cost of the event and the deadline for completing the work.
To organize the calculation process needs to be prepared in advance: tape measure, calculator, sheet of paper and pencil.
At the beginning should draw up a blueprint Houses. This will allow you to calculate as accurately as possible the required amount of materials and additional elements. So let's get started.
- Divide the facade into separate segments, determine the real area of each wall, and then the facade as a whole.
- From the resulting amount, subtract the area of door and window openings.
- The actual metric characteristics of the ridge and roof will indicate the dimensions of the overhangs. They should be hemmed with spotlights.
- For proper installation of siding panels, it is necessary to determine the true number of platbands, window trims and other additional elements.
After completing all the calculations, you can independently determine the quantity of materials and approximate cost.
Since during the process of cutting and installing panels, some material will become unusable, when calculating total area skin to its total value It is recommended to add another 15%. Thus. You will definitely not experience a shortage of material when facing a building.
In order to properly calculate right amount siding for the house, the surface area that needs to be covered with cladding, must be divided into the area of one panel. To the value obtained should be added, the required stock.
Additional elements:
- In order to determine the number of starting strips, the length of the gap sections should be added to the length of the perimeter of the building, and the resulting amount should be divided by the size of the profile.
- Number of outdoor and internal corners depends on the configuration of the building.
- The number of window profiles is determined by the length of the perimeter of recessed window openings.
- The number of finishing strips must correspond to the number of starting profiles.
- The number of J-slats is determined by the length of the frontal joints.
- The number of architraves depends on the parameters of the facade segments that need cladding.
How much does 1 m2 cost?
The total cost of house siding determined by several factors, namely:
- surface area to be covered;
- the cost of the source material;
- the need to install fastening structures;
- the complexity of the work;
- installation of thermal insulation.
Average 1 square meter siding will cost the owner of an architectural structure about 200 rubles. Wherein the cost of all other works is considered separately.
Do you know how to sheathe a wooden house outside? Read this article about choosing the best material.
Is it possible to clad a building in winter?
Naturally, it is best to sheathe a house with siding during the warm periods of the year. But, if this event has to be held in winter, then must be remembered several important points.
Because when exposed low temperatures vinyl panels may crack, then this type of sheathing is not recommended to be mounted in winter.
As for metal siding, its panels should be installed with some clearance, because when warmed, the material will expand. Since there is a gap between the panels and the insulation, the owners have no reason to worry about the accumulation of condensate.
How to sheathe a house with siding yourself?
Since the technology for installing siding sheathing is quite simple, then this species work can be done independently.
When installing cement panels, it is necessary to pre-strengthen the foundation, this is due to their large weight.
Preparatory work
Walls and surfaces around the perimeter of the house must get rid of mold, dirt, fungus, dust and moss. Places where such phenomena have been identified should be treated with special antiseptics.
The next step should carefully inspect the walls of the building. If cracks or other damage to the surfaces are detected, they must be rubbed with a building emulsion.
The territory of the site must be removed, and then a small canopy should be erected on it to protect power sources and power tools from possible precipitation.
For work you will need:
- cross saw;
- pliers;
- metal ruler;
- roulette;
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- level;
- knife-cutter;
- pliers;
- awl;
- protective glasses;
- hacksaw for metal.
Lathing installation
To design siding held securely by the frame its creation must be approached as consciously as possible. If the project involves additional wall insulation, then waterproofing should be placed under the insulation ball, and if not, under the crate.
First you need to determine the material from which the crate will be made. If it is planned to install wooden or vinyl panels, then the frame can serve as metallic profile, so is the bar.
Other types of siding require the installation of a metal crate. If timber was chosen as the frame material, then it must be thoroughly dried and treated with an antiseptic. After these procedures, you can begin to collect the crate.
First you need to mark the areas for installation fasteners. The first profiles should be installed in the corners. They should be perfectly aligned. Use the building level to control.
Next, you can mount horizontal beams below and above the surface that you are sheathing. Once everything is ready, you can safely mount the remaining vertical elements over the entire surface plane.
The distance between the profiles should be about 30–50 cm. The crate is recommended to be fixed directly to the walls of the building with dowels, the holes for which are made with a perforator.
Wall insulation
In order to qualitatively insulate the walls of the building, it is recommended to lay a heater between the profiles of the lathing (foam plastic, basalt or mineral wool). The choice of insulation depends on climatic conditions in the area where the house is located.
If the winter temperature does not fall below -15 °C, then experts recommend using foam. More severe climatic conditions require the use of mineral wool as a heater.
Insulation should cover with waterproofing film. It is attached directly to the crate. To do this, use a construction stapler. A counter-lattice must be installed on top of the waterproofing layer. This will create a ventilation space between the insulation and the panels.
Finishing
Before installing panels, you must to fix additional elements structures (external and internal components, finishing and starting film, J, H-panels, water pipe segments, window film).
First panel fixed on the starting film, after which, moving from the bottom up, the rest of the siding segments are mounted. The last panel must be fixed on the finishing film.
Do not overtighten the screws. Between the surface plane and the head of the fastening element, leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This will allow the material to expand without harming the siding structure.
So, cladding a building with siding is an ideal, publicly available way to ensure the presentability and durability of a building.
What mistakes can be made when installing siding? See in the video:
Siding is made of wood, aluminum, cement fiber, steel. It is characterized by a wide variety of textures and shades, while providing good protection house walls. Thanks to this, among facing materials siding is one of the most popular.
Mounting technologies different types siding are similar, although they have some features. This article describes how to install horizontal vinyl siding. This is a very commonly used option.
Ordinary panel fastening
Ordinary panels are connected to each other with an overlap on the lock-latch. One long edge (in a horizontal arrangement - the upper one) is provided with holes for fixing on the wall with nails. Next to them is the receiving part of the lock - the panel is curved in the form of a hook, when viewed in profile.
The second edge is the counterpart of the latch. In profile, it is seen as a hook oriented mirror-image to the first. When attaching the siding to the wall, the lower edge (reciprocal part) of the mounted panel is connected to the receiving part already installed panel. Then it is pushed up until it snaps into place, and the top edge is fixed with nails.
Additional elements
The main area of the skin is formed by ordinary siding panels. But for their fastening, components are required, also called additional elements. Each siding manufacturer also supplies its own set of components, which may include different amount additional elements.
At different manufacturers panel sizes may vary, so you should purchase components and ordinary siding from the same manufacturer.
Main types of components
Installation rules
Sequencing:
- Do-it-yourself crate for siding is installed
- Insulation is placed in the crate
- The initial bar and other components are fixed
- Row panels are mounted
In order for the cladding to be installed evenly, the support points of the siding must be in the same plane. For this, a crate is arranged.
If wooden walls frame house ideally even over the entire plane, the crate can be omitted. But this doesn't happen often. On stone and block walls, lathing is required.
During installation, it is necessary to take into account possible changes in dimensions due to thermal expansion-contraction.
Surface preparation
- If any objects are mounted on the wall, they must all be removed. It concerns the shutters downpipes, platbands and other elements that may interfere with installation
- If the wall is covered with any finishing material, it must either be dismantled or fixed so that it does not interfere with the fastening basement siding
- All places where moisture can penetrate the wall must be sealed with sealant. Such places are gaps around doors and windows, entrances of gas and electric mains.
Sheathing for siding
On wooden surface wooden beams are used for the crate. On the stone - bars, PVC slats or galvanized profile.
The beam is taken 6 cm wide, while it is easy to install the mount in the middle of the beam. With a smaller width, this will be more difficult. The thickness should be slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation.
The tree should have a moisture content not exceeding 15-18%. It is necessary to treat it from all sides with a special antiseptic and flame retardant to protect it from decay and insects, to give fire resistance.
If the sheathing panels are horizontal, the crate is stuffed vertically.
Installation order
- First, the bars are fixed at the corners of the wall, the verticality is checked using a level
- So that all the bars lie in the same plane, a cord is pulled between the extreme bars, and the remaining elements of the crate are installed along it
- Intermediate gratings are mounted in increments of 20-40 cm
- It is necessary to make a crate for siding along the perimeter of the walls (excluding the lower part, so as not to impede air exchange), around all openings, including windows and doors, on the gable of the roof
insulation
- Insulation is placed between the elements of the crate. It is important that the layer is laid without gaps and holes.
- The insulation layer is covered with a windproof diffusion membrane. It is attached to the crate with a construction stapler. Sheets of material are overlapped. The depth of overlap is 10-15 cm.
- There must be a ventilated gap between the insulation and the siding. If it is not done, the inner surface of the cladding, as well as the insulation, may become damp, mold, fungi may appear, and the service life of the structure is reduced.
- To form a gap, a counter-lattice is installed from the bars, which are attached to the crate
Siding cutting
There are several ways to cut material. 
- Hacksaw for metal
- Scissors for metal
- With a knife. A deep groove is drawn on the panel along the ruler, then the siding is bent and unfolded several times along it until it breaks
- Electric jigsaw
- Bulgarian at low speeds, otherwise the material may melt
In cold weather, vinyl siding cannot be cut with scissors and a knife - the material will crack near the cut line.
It is not recommended to immediately cut all the material for the wall, based on theoretical calculations. Mistakes may be made. It is better to prepare the panels first for one wall fragment, attach them, and then prepare the material for the next section.
Siding fasteners
Fasteners must be resistant to corrosion. Otherwise, the appearance of the skin will eventually be spoiled by rusty stains.
A good option is galvanized nails 2.5-3 cm long. The diameter of the cap should be at least 1 cm, and the legs should be at least 3 mm. You can also use self-tapping screws.
Siding fixing rules
Vinyl siding has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. A 3m vinyl panel can change length by 10-12mm as the temperature changes.
Therefore, the panels cannot be attached tightly to the crate. It is necessary that after installation they can move along the fastening line. Self-tapping screws should not be completely screwed in, leaving a gap of 1-1.5 mm. A gap is left at the joints of the skin elements: in warm weather 5 mm, and in cold weather - 10 mm.
Nails and screws are installed in the middle of the hole. In no case should you make fastening at the edge. If you want to hammer a nail in this particular place, you need to widen the hole.
Setting up the starting strips
The technology of sheathing with horizontal vinyl siding at home begins with this component. Its length is 3600 mm.
This important step during installation, on which the appearance of the skin significantly depends.
If you set the starting profile is not strictly horizontal, then the siding will turn out to be skewed.
- noted Lower level lining on one of the corners. A nail is driven 4 cm higher into the crate
- At the same level, a nail is driven in at another corner. A line between the nails is beaten off with a chalked cord. In the same way, the line continues around the entire perimeter of the house.
- An angular profile is applied to the corner, a mark is made on the edges of the nail strips on the crate. Start profile fastened with an indent from the edge of the corner profile by 5-10 mm horizontally. Its upper edge is set along the chalk line
- Separate profile elements are installed with a gap
Installation of corner elements
- The upper edge of the outer corner profile is set at such a height that there is room for the cornice sheathing with a gap. Nails are driven into the upper holes on both sides. Checking the vertical position of the profile
- Then the corner profile is attached to the crate after 25-40 cm. The fasteners are located in the centers of the holes, they are not sunk to the limit
- The lower edge of the profile is located 5-10 mm below the starting strip
- If the length of one profile is not enough for the entire corner, two profiles are mounted end-to-end
- On top element the perforated nail strip is cut off with scissors by 3.5 cm.
- It is installed on top of the lower one with an overlap of 2.5 cm. At the same time, the joint is protected from rain and snow, and there is room for possible extension
- The joint should be at the same level in all corners
Internal corner profiles are mounted in the same way.
Door and window openings
Windows and doors are usually placed in a niche of the wall; window profiles are used for them. They are equipped with a shelf to close the slopes. These shelves are cut to the depth of the niche. Finishing profiles are installed along the inner perimeter of the niche. Shelves of near-horn profiles are started under them.
If the niches are deep, you can sheathe them in the same way as ordinary walls, using a corner profile and ordinary siding.
Installation of ordinary panels
- The lock at the bottom of the panel of the first row is aligned with the lock of the starting strip, latches upwards
- Through the holes in the upper part, the panel is attached to the crate. Do not stretch the siding during installation, otherwise it may burst when compressed in cold weather.
- When installing, do not forget to leave a gap on both sides of the profile
- During installation, every third row should be checked with a level for horizontal
Docking siding
Docking of ordinary profiles can be done in two ways.
- Overlap. The perforated edge and the lock part are trimmed in such a way that an overlap of 25 mm can be made. Stitches must match in no more than 4 adjacent rows.
- With H-profile. It is mounted simultaneously with the corner profiles. To do this, a double vertical lath is installed in the crate, or short horizontal ones are additionally stuffed between two vertical laths. Installation in height and overlapping, if the height of one profile is not enough, is carried out similarly to the corner profile
Under the window opening
Ordinary panels under the opening are cut to the width of the window with the addition of a gap on each side. The depth of the cutout must also allow for a gap of 1-2 mm between the panel and the receiving trough. The cut ends are inserted into the receiving trough of the casing.
Finishing panel under the roof eaves
Gable
The roof gable uses an internal corner or J-profile. The topmost panel is attached through a hole that is specially made in the vinyl for this purpose.
This method of fastening is an exception to the rule. In other cases, fastening through vinyl is unacceptable.
As we can see, you can quickly finish the house with siding. It turns out a smooth, beautiful and durable lining that looks aesthetically pleasing and solid. You should only not be too lazy to once again check the verticality or horizontality of the installed part.
If the house is finished with siding correctly, in compliance with all installation rules, then the cladding is not afraid of either sudden temperature changes or strong winds with frost.
Video on how to fix siding
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How to properly install siding
Let's get busy exterior trim building. It would seem that what a problem it is to choose siding and sheathe a house with it: the main thing is to like it and serve for a long time. Went to the store, bought materials, the right tools and started decorating.
In fact, it turns out to be a little more complicated: it is easy to make a mistake in the calculations, when choosing a sheathing or when installing finishing panels. Before buying the siding you like, you need to decide what material you will sheathe the house with. Vinyl and acrylic panels, wood, metal and fiber cement plates are used for decoration.
Vinyl and acrylic panels are most often used to finish the building (photo # 1)
We will tell you what material to choose, how to fix the siding so that it lasts a long time, does not crack or fade. In addition to siding, you need to choose the type of crate and insulation. It is worth warming the house if you live in it all year round and not just in summer.
You can do all the work yourself or hire an installation team. In the case of hiring workers, you will control the finishing process and point out errors during installation. If you decide to install siding yourself, you will need tools.
Tools that may be needed to attach the siding (photo # 2)
Choosing the right tools
You will learn how to attach siding to the wall from the outside and what tools you will need for this:
Construction roll. The length of the finishing panels is 3 meters or more (there are panels measuring 3.10 and 3.66 meters). If you mount the strips yourself, you will need a tape measure of the appropriate length (for example, 5 meters);
Building level. How to fix siding so that it does not break or deform? To do this, you need to install the crate and fix the panels strictly according to the level. It is desirable to have two levels: for short sections, use a tool with a length of 70-100 cm, for long surfaces - from 150 cm. Measure the vertical and horizontal laying accuracy;
Screwdriver. You will have to tighten a lot of screws, so it is better to refuse to use a screwdriver. For mounting panels on wooden crate you can use nails, then instead of a screwdriver you need a hammer;
To attach the siding to the frame, a screwdriver is most often used (photo No. 3)
Drill. If the walls of the house are made of brick, concrete or foam blocks, to install the crate, you will need to drill holes and install dowels in them;
Hacksaw for metal. Vinyl and acrylic siding convenient to cut with a hacksaw. For these purposes, they also use an electric jigsaw with a metal blade;
Knife cutter. To give the planks the desired shape, use a cutter knife or stationery knife with a thick blade (thin can break). A curly cut can also be made with a jigsaw.
Punch. Finishing and window strips often have to be cut. Cut off the part on which the mounting hooks are located. To make new hooks, professional installers use a punch.
To make new hooks on the bar, installers use a punch (photo # 4)
Ladder. For installation on the upper floors and on the gable, you will need a ladder. You can use an attached or folding ladder. To avoid damage to the sheathing, do not lean the stairs against vinyl or acrylic siding.
Types of crates
Let's move on to the installation and start with the choice of crates. The crate is made from:
- wooden bars;
- profiles for fixing drywall;
- metal U-shaped profiles for siding;
- plastic structures designed for mounting vinyl and acrylic panels.
Before installing the crate, inspect the surface. If there are cracks, crevices and other defects on it, they must be repaired. In the event that the old lining crumbles (for example, paint or plaster), it must be removed. If there are strong drops and irregularities on the walls, they should be smoothed out. Otherwise, the geometry of the wall will be violated and the siding may crack or deform.
After eliminating irregularities, you need to process the walls protective coating. To protect the walls of a wooden house, use an antiseptic and flame retardant: the first will cope with moisture and decay, the second will prevent fire. Treat concrete walls with a deep penetration primer. It will prevent mold and mildew.
Wooden crate for siding (photo No. 5)
The crate is mounted perpendicular to the siding panels. In other words, if you want to lay the siding horizontally, then the frame of the crate must be made vertical. And vice versa. step between wooden beams or metal profiles should be 30-50 cm.
Hydro-wind insulation is laid under the crate. It protects the building from wind and moisture. Due to the presence of the crate, a ventilation gap is formed between the walls of the house and the finishing panels. The gap prevents the appearance of condensate harmful to the walls and cladding. To keep the house warm, you can lay insulation between the crate. For this, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene foam are used.
Let's consider in more detail each option of the crate
Wooden crate. It is made from bars 4 cm or 5 cm thick. When choosing bars, pay attention to the smoothness of the surface and the absence of cracks. Before installation, you need to dry the wood and cover it with solutions that protect the wood from decay and fire.
If you are faced with the question of how to fasten siding to wood, then there are 2 options: with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws or with a hammer and nails.
Metal lathing of walls and plinth (photo No. 6)
Profile for fixing drywall. If the task is to save money, then profiles for interior work are used for the installation of siding. Most often, drywall sheets are attached to such structures. Manufacturers do not recommend using drywall profiles outdoors. Due to the thin zinc coating, corrosion appears on them under the influence of moisture. They are intended for indoor use and are not suitable for attaching siding.
Metal U-shaped profile. For fastening the siding, a durable metal profile 1 mm thick is also used. This design is more reliable than the crate with a drywall profile, but it will cost more. If you are using heavy cladding panels (for example, plinth or metal siding), then you need to use street profiles.
Polymer facade fastening system "Alta-Profile". Polymer profiles are not subject to rust and decay, they do not need to be further processed and create special storage conditions. If you chose vinyl siding for the cladding of the building, you need to take into account that it expands in the hot summer and narrows in the winter. Polymer profiles prevent deformation facing panels due to sudden temperature changes, they have the same coefficient of expansion as siding.
Plastic profiles are not subject to rust and decay (photo No. 7)
How to fix the siding starter strip
After installing the crate, we proceed to fixing the siding. If you are new to finishing and don't yet know how to install siding, start at the back of the building - possible mistakes will be less noticeable. Used for siding auxiliary elements: mounting strips and profiles. They are starting, corner and connecting.
For fastening the siding, auxiliary elements are used: finishing strips and profiles (photo No. 8)
Siding installation begins with the installation of the starting bar. To do this, define bottom point installation and step back from it 1-2 cm up. Next, use a building level, chalk or marker to mark a horizontal line. To keep the structure stronger, a rigid base is attached under the bar, for example, a metal corner.
The bar is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. Use galvanized fasteners, they are not subject to corrosion. Under the action of temperature, the bar expands, so do not tighten the screws (do not drive nails) to the end, leave a small gap (1-2 mm). Further laying of the skin depends on the accuracy of mounting the starting bar. After mounting the starting bar, mount the corner and near-window elements.
Expert advice. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the middle of the oblong hole. Fasteners should not press the bar to the frame.
How to fix window siding strip
To fix the siding at the window, use a near-window bar or J-profile. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window. The window can be located flush with the wall or equipped with external slopes.
If the window is flush with the batten, use a J-profile. First fix the slats on the sides of the window opening, (vertically) so that they do not protrude beyond the window. After that, install horizontal rails: above the window and below the window.
Cut horizontal J-rails not flush with the window, but with a margin of 6 cm on each side. The cutting angle can be made straight or 45°. Do not forget about temperature differences, leave a small gap between the joints of the profiles.
To fix the siding at the window, use a near-window bar or J-profile. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window (photo No. 9)
For finishing a window opening with slopes up to 22 cm wide, near-window (or wide near-window) strips are used. The installation of the near-window structure takes place in two stages: first, finishing strips are mounted along the perimeter of the window, after which near-window strips are installed on them.
Slopes with a width exceeding 22 cm require integrated approach to installation. From the side of the window, a J-profile is installed along the perimeter, from the outside, a structure is mounted from the outer corner, into which the siding panels are inserted.
Installing door trims
For mounting around doors, J-profiles and window trims are used. During installation, it is important to remember the temperature deformation of the elements and not to install them tightly to each other.
Finishing bar attachment
To install the last siding panel, a finishing bar is used. Most often it is used in the upper part of the wall under the eaves. A plank prepared in size with self-tapping screws is attached to the crate (leaving a gap of 1-2 mm). After that, the top part of the siding is placed under the bend of the finishing strip. The last panel may need to be trimmed. To fix the trimmed panel in the finish bar, make new hooks, for this use a punch.
To install the last siding panel, use the finishing bar (photo No. 10)
How to install siding on a wooden house
Finishing panels are installed on any type of building. It doesn't matter if the house is built of brick, foam blocks of concrete or wood, it can be finished with siding. We will talk about how to fix siding on a wooden house and other types of buildings.
Expert advice. Check siding for accuracy every 3 rows. Do this with a building level in the vertical and horizontal direction or use the Alta-Profil facade fixing system in order not to follow the level.
Before installation, wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and flame retardant (photo No. 11)
Before installation, wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and flame retardant. For mounting the crate, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, no additional holes need to be made.
When finishing concrete and brick buildings, the walls are covered with a primer, for mounting the battens, holes are drilled for dowels, into which self-tapping screws are screwed.
Attaching basement siding to foundation
Basement siding is used to cover the foundation. For this, vinyl panels of increased strength are chosen. Such panels are resistant to damage and any temperature changes. Structure and form facade panels offers a wide variety of options. The design of facade panels is done "under the stone" and "under the brick".
Plinth panels are resistant to damage and to any temperature changes (photo No. 12)
Which panels to choose, and how to fix the basement siding to the foundation, you can decide for yourself. First, measure the foundation and calculate the required volumes. As with conventional siding, charge 10-15% more so you have a spare panel in case of a defect.
Plinth panels are thicker and heavier than usual, so for their installation they choose a metal U-shaped profile for siding or ready-made polymer solutions "Alta-Profile" (facade fastening system). Otherwise, the installation of basement siding proceeds in the same way as the installation of standard panels.
Conclusion
We told how the siding is properly fastened, explained how to install the crate and choose materials. If you decide to sheathe the house with siding yourself, first of all check the availability necessary tools and calculate the required volumes of materials.
Prepare the walls, choose the type of crate, insulating materials and a heater. When installing, do not forget that siding expands under the influence of temperature. Leave small gaps, so you can avoid deformation of the panels.
