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Is it possible to sheathe a bath inside with a clapboard. Sheathing of the bath clapboard inside. Installation of additional elements

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Bath is a very ancient and beloved by our people healing procedure. It perfectly improves the tone of the body, promotes the removal of toxins, hardens, helps to get rid of many diseases. But the maximum healing effect can be achieved with the right decision on which clapboard to sheathe the bath, if your bath room is made in accordance with all the rules and from natural materials.

What clapboard to sheathe a bath inside

The best options for interior decoration of a sauna or bath are considered to be oak, linden or aspen lining. The use of lining from these materials will give excellent heat and sound insulation properties, these types of wood do not emit resin when heated, contribute to the creation of a special microclimate in the steam room, and release the healing substances themselves. Before you decide which clapboard to sheathe the bath, you need to decide on the choice of material.

The lining is attached to the walls and ceiling in the bath, provided that they are wooden and even, and if you built a brick bath, then you need to make a special crate of slats for the lining. After you have fixed the lining, you should do the impregnation. To process the lining in the bath, you can use varnish and special eco-friendly antiseptics - this is necessary to protect the wood from moisture. What clapboard to sheathe a bath, how to process it, how to care for it - knowing the answers to these questions will help you significantly extend its service life.

In order for your sauna or bath finish to last for a long time, you need to choose the right one of the options for attaching the lining and make it treated with protective equipment. Most often, lining in a bath or sauna is mounted vertically. With this method of fastening, water flows freely along the walls and does not linger in the grooves of the rails, which often happens if the lining is fixed horizontally.
When decorating a bath room, materials can be combined. For example, forty centimeters (lower level) from the floor level can be made with ceramic tiles, and the walls above can be made from lining.

The modern market offers a very large selection of wood lining, but you should follow the rules when choosing it:

— For interior decoration, it is necessary to use a lining, the cut of which is along the growth of the tree.
— The edges of the surface must be free of cracks.
- The tub must be free of stains and knots.
- In the presence of such defects, the lining may break during fastening.

For the interior decoration of the bath, it is possible to use various tree species. Let's get acquainted with those that are used for this purpose most often:
Using alder to finish the bath
Black alder is an excellent raw material for the production of wall paneling. European standards. She has excellent medicinal properties. It is often used in the construction and interior decoration of baths or saunas. The healing properties of this wood are associated with the presence of special tannins in it, which have a number of valuable qualities:
- When heated, these substances have an anti-inflammatory and hemostatic effect.
- They have disinfectant and astringent properties.
- Help with colds, gout and rheumatism.
For interior decoration, it is better to use eurolining, which is made from material harvested in autumn or winter. This lining reinforces healing properties. It is believed that alder is one of the best materials for interior decoration.

Cedar lining

Cedar is recognized as a valuable material, which, in addition to high quality, has a very beautiful texture. There are breeds of cedar, which at high temperatures acquire pink shade and releases cedar resin. Except pleasant aroma cedar also has antiseptic properties.

Aspen lining

It is often said that aspen is a dead tree, but when choosing aspen lining, it should be remembered that it is more often exposed to wood diseases than other materials. With absence special coating protective liquid, such lining will darken over time. This soft material, which is easy to process, odorless and has a beautiful texture.

Linden for lining

Linden has many wonderful properties. It perfectly holds the temperature and can be considered the best material for interior decoration of the bath. There is no resin in the lime lining. This material is light, rarely has a shade of coffee.

From time immemorial, not only the Slavs, but also the Finnish, Ugric and even nomadic tribes have made a considerable contribution to the creation, which eventually began to be called "Russian bath". In those days, the technology was very simple: a massive frame was used, which did not have any heaters inside. In our technological world, this option is not very practical, since it will take a significant amount of firewood and a lot of time to heat the bath. Once upon a time, wood was the cheapest material - now it is no longer so. A modern bath is easier to sheathe. There is enough information and photos for this. How to make it inexpensive and beautiful? This will be discussed further.

Quick Guide to Material Selection

What lining for the bath to use and is it needed at all? An important question for owners of steam rooms. Let's first understand what functions it performs. The main task of the sheathing is to reduce the consumption of heat energy and reduce the burning time from 4 to 1-1.5 hours. Although, perhaps, this does not apply to baths, competently built according to old technologies - from solid timber. In this case, no heaters are required. However, the construction costs will be completely different.

So, when choosing a material, first of all, you need to think about the properties that it should have. Of course, it must be non-flammable, vapor-resistant and, of course, harmless to your health. Not recommended for upholstery internal walls baths are unnatural materials.

The favorite material for interior decoration is lining, a little less often they prefer a block house that is spectacular in its appearance, or only magnelite that is developing on the market. What do you prefer anyway? Let's consider all the options in more detail.

Clapboard lining

Lining among builders is associated with beauty, practicality and reasonable cost. High Quality lining partially regulates the humidity of the air in the steam room, prevents the appearance of fungal mold and condensation, and allows the walls to “breathe”.

Advice. There is a little secret when choosing a lining, which can significantly reduce the cost of its purchase. Very often, on the building materials market, lining up to 1.5 m long is much cheaper than from 2 m and above. And sheathing a bath with a material of this length is quite simple - you just need to make a rail in the middle.

Most often, lining is preferable for finishing the interior of the bath, as it has a number of undoubted advantages:

1. Saves heat. Lining significantly reduces heat leakage, respectively, and the amount of firewood used (electricity, gas).
2. Gives the room aesthetic appearance, hiding communications and uneven finishes.
3. Prevents the formation of dampness.
4. Long serves.

You should seriously approach the choice of wood for lining, because the level of reliability of the material and the degree of financial costs depend on it.

• Linden - perfect option for a wig. Allocated by her essential oils have a disinfecting, anti-inflammatory effect. It enhances perspiration without burning the skin and respiratory tract due to low thermal conductivity.
• A less financially costly alternative to linden will be aspen. It draws out diseases from the body, is not subject to decay after prolonged contact with water. This tree is very soft, it is cut without problems.
• The best option for shower walls will be larch. It has a positive effect on well-being, increases resistance to infections. And floors from this tree will be exclusively strong and reliable. Even various small rodents and a bug will not be afraid of them.
• The leader in strength among tree species is undoubtedly white stock. It is even stronger than oak and will only get stronger with time. Acacia is not subject to deformation and decay. Products made from this wood will be very durable and wear-resistant, so acacia is perfect for finishing doors and floors in a steam room.

Choosing a block house

Block house for a bath - the best combination of price and quality. This material is so close in its external characteristics to a log house that it is almost impossible to distinguish a bath sheathed with a block house from a log one. This material undergoes special drying, so it is not afraid of deformation or cracks. But periodic (once every few years) bactericidal treatment is still desirable.

There is a classification of the block house according to the degree of quality:

• Class "C" - low quality material, processed only superficially. Various kinds of deformations are allowed (cracks, bark remnants, etc.);
• Class "B" - medium quality block house, allowing only a limited amount of deformation (small cracks, knots up to 3 cm, etc.);
• Class "A" - perfectly processed material, without any irregularities (with the exception of small knots - up to 3 cm);
• "Extra" class - the most high level material quality with perfect surface finish.

For the interior decoration of the bath, a block house of the last two classes is recommended. As a material for the block house, hardwood and softwood are used, with the exception of spruce and pine (since they have high thermal conductivity and can cause burns when touched).

Advice. In no case should you use chipboard and fiberboard in a steam room, since they release toxins when heated.

MAGELAN

A self-confident newcomer to the building materials market is a glass-magnesium sheet. It is made from fine wood shavings, magnesium and other components reinforced with fiberglass mesh. This is an acceptable, but not the best material for interior decoration. However, certain advantages of this material cannot be denied:

1. Immune to temperature changes and burning.
2. Does not rot and is immune to moisture
3. Easy to mount.

We introduced you to this material with possible finishes interior spaces baths from natural wood and ending with modern materials. Now, knowing about the advantages of certain materials, it will be easier for you to make a choice depending on your wishes and financial capabilities.

What not to sheathe a bath: video

How to sheathe a bath: photo

The most popular and easy-to-use material for interior decoration of the bath is lining. Wood for a bath - the most suitable option due to its useful qualities and naturalness. Let's figure out how to make this finish with your own hands.

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Where to begin?

First of all, you need to opt for high-quality and natural materials. The cladding must be resistant to constant condensation, humidity and high temperatures. You can pick up such types of material as brick, foam concrete or gas silicate blocks. However, none of the stone materials can replace wood, if only for the reason that the stone cannot create a special microclimate that attracts to the steam room, as well as the smell of wood, which is still loved by all sauna visitors.

Why all the same lining?

clapboard - view building material made from wood. It is distinguished by its board structure, which has a special groove along the sides. Due to this fastening between the panels, maximum contact is ensured, which contributes to greater thermal insulation. Among other things, lining is considered outwardly beautiful material, practical and durable.

What kind of lining will be needed for sheathing?

It is important to pay attention to the characteristics of the tree when choosing. It should:

• be resistant to high temperatures and temperature fluctuations;
• be moisture resistant and durable;
• have an affordable and reasonable price.

Faced with a wide range of material, we begin to distinguish the typical characteristics of the boards.

• eurolining

Many stop at this variety, since big sizes boards make it easier to install, and special slots on the back provide ventilation for the wood, which prevents it from drying out and cracking. Eurolining at the manufacturing stage is treated with protective equipment. This facilitates the process of self-processing wood. Feel free to use the lining as a lining.

• classic lining

Narrow boards standard size with right angles. the best way sheathing such a board is considered a vertical mount. If you mount them horizontally, the space will visually lose its beauty, condensate will be able to flow under the boards, which will lead to the destruction of the finish and its deformation.

• lining "calm"

Similar in design to a classic board, but has rounded corners. The back side is provided with special gaps that contribute to the ventilation of the material.

• lining "soft line"

It is considered a type of lining that combines the “calm” option and eurolining. It features an elongated spike for better bonding and rounded corners.

• block house

A popular type of lining, imitating a log. As a rule, it is considered the best option for exterior finish facade, however, for bath sheathing can be considered a suitable material. Convenient installation and durable operation are ensured by tenacious fasteners and ventilation of the boards on the reverse side.

Varieties of lining

Having decided on the type of lining, select the type of material:

• premium class (grade 0)

Perfectly different smooth surface And high price. The material is absolutely high quality, has no flaws, irregularities.

• class "A" (grade 1)

Has an acceptable number of knots and cracks. Resin can be observed on the surface, roughness is possible.

• class "B" (grade 2)

Cracks have a through character. The presence of knots is increased. In some places there is a protrusion of the natural rot of the board. It is necessary to protect the surface with varnishes and paints, which does not allow the use of the material in the steam room. Sheathing of other rooms in the bath is allowed.

• class "C" (grade 3)

Bad material for sheathing baths. If you use the material for decoration, then no more than as an auxiliary material for technical purposes. The characteristics of the lining are such that there are a large number of flaws and defects on the board.

Choosing wood

Finally, you can start choosing the type of wood.

• Linden

The interior decoration of the bath with linden clapboard is the most popular. The tree provides an ideal microclimate. Linden characteristics:

• strength, reliability;
• resistance to drying out;
• loved by many wood structure and color palette;
• requires processing, otherwise the surface will begin to noticeably rot or acquire a dark shade.

• aspen

The lining has a soft and elastic structure, which allows for easy installation. A special feature of wood is the fact that over the years it does not wear out. On the contrary, the longer the material is used, the stronger its structure becomes. Aspen is considered a moisture resistant material. During operation, the material is easily sanded.

• alder

It has tannins, which is beneficial for the body, it is well susceptible to high temperatures. However, wood has a low thermal conductivity and a high price.

• oak

Oak lining is a difficult material to process and install. This may turn out to be insignificant disadvantages, given that the tree is practically not exposed to rotting and mold. In addition, the cost of the material is very high.

• other types of lining

Alternative options can serve as a lining made of ash, as well as hardwood or softwood.

What are the nuances to remember?

Installation of thermal insulation

The most important condition for a bath or sauna is exposure to heat and steam. Therefore, sheathing the walls and the floor with the ceiling with clapboard is half the battle. Preliminary stage before finishing, the installation of a heat-insulating layer will be considered. There are several ways to do this:

1. A budget option is considered to be fastening with a stapler to the wall with aluminum foil or glassine. The insulation is installed in the free spaces of the crate and closed with a vapor barrier.
2. Laying insulation directly on the walls before installing the crate for finishing. The heater is covered with foil. Only after that we build a crate and trim the walls with clapboard.

As a heater the best option for the bath will use basalt wool.

It is important to install the insulation so that there are no gaps, no free spaces, or even gaps left on the wall. It is necessary to protect yourself from getting small particles of cotton wool into your eyes or mouth with construction goggles and a respirator.

Thus, when installing insulation and wrapping the walls with foil, you will provide your bath with good thermal conductivity and resistance to condensation and moisture.

Ventilation

We have already talked about the fact that ventilation must be properly installed in the walls. After installing the insulation and the crate, the most important thing for the walls will be the formation of holes under the ceiling and on the floor, preferably next to the firebox. Ventilation must be installed so that there is free access to it.

Sheathing installation

As with any construction activity, a special list of tools is needed to finish the bath from the inside. Install the skin with:

• perforator (you can use an electric drill);
• construction stapler (you will need the appropriate staples);
• electric jigsaw;
• building square, level and tape measure;
• screwdriver (you will need self-tapping screws of the same size);
• nails, kleimers and a hammer.

Clapboard upholstery of bare walls will not lead to anything good. After installing the insulation or even before that (depending on which method of insulation you have chosen), you need to install a crate, on which the lining boards will be attached in the future.

First of all, check for large holes or depressions on the walls. If there are any, they must be sealed, otherwise there is simply nothing to fasten the crate to.

The direct manufacture of the crate with your own hands begins with the preparation of rails, wooden bars. They are attached to the wall with nails or screws. Reiki should be installed on the wall horizontally, at an equal distance from each other. The interval between them must be made such that the insulation can easily fit into it. The fastening of the rails begins at the edges, and then the installation moves towards the middle. The crate is ready, you can proceed to the sheathing.

After purchasing the lining, do not rush to fill it on the walls. The material needs to "settle" in the closed room of the bath for 24 hours. What is it for? The answer is simple: the boards need to absorb the necessary moisture, deform as much as possible so that the boards do not crack before the allotted time. After waiting for their deformation, the boards need to be treated with a solution and dried.

There are three ways to fasten boards: vertical, horizontal and diagonally.

• We fasten the lining vertically

A common option for baths or saunas, as the mount is quite simple and convenient. When used, the fastening is practical: when condensation appears on the walls, moisture flows along the boards, this protects the material from water entering the wall.

Due to such fastening, air circulates in the right direction, due to this, the correct microclimate is created in the steam room, the movement of air around the room is free.

The disadvantage may be unprofitable use. If you need to replace one of the lining boards, you will have to disassemble the entire structure.

• We fasten the lining horizontally

Many reject this method because of its insecurity. This is not so: the boards are fastened with a spike up, which means that water, as well as with vertical fastening, will get inside with a low probability.

When choosing such a mount, get ready to install the crate: thanks to it, the air will circulate correctly between the lining and the wall.

Boards are easy to replace. It is especially correct to install this type of fastening of the lining on the floor, since the boards are subject to rapid deterioration.

The horizontal way of sheathing is convenient in the baths "under the frame". Such structures shrink over several years and have a permanent deformation. When installing the lining vertically, a change in the position of the boards is inevitable.

• We fasten the lining diagonally

As a rule, the mount is used for the ceiling. Boards are fastened with clamps. Installation starts from the corner. Installation of boards is carried out in rows around the entire perimeter of the ceiling. Excess boards along the edges are sawn off with an electric jigsaw at an angle.

Facing the bath in stages

We begin the installation of cladding from the ceiling. Fasteners for boards are carnations or kleimers, which are driven in in several ways:

• Nails at 45 degree angles. On the ceiling, the fasteners will be completely invisible. Fasten the boards together with a small gap, allowing them to swell quietly without damaging the structure.
• Nails are driven through. The best option for eurolining. It is important to first drill a recess in the wood, and then drive in a nail. You can mask the fasteners with stoppers.
• Fastening with clamps facilitates the process of mounting the lining. They are installed on the crate, and the lining simply interlocks with them during installation.
• It is possible to use oblique or hidden nailing. One of the hardest fixing methods. If you are working with such materials for the first time, it is better to refrain, as there is a risk of spoiling not only the board, but the whole work as a whole.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard

Lining - the material is thin, it is difficult to finish nails with a hammer, so you can use a hammer.

As on the ceiling, on the floor and walls, the lining should be fixed with a small interval between the boards for its free movement. The distance of the gaps is approximately 2-3 mm. You can leave a space of 15 mm between the ceiling and walls, hiding it with a ceiling plinth.

The lining is mounted on the walls in the same way as on the ceiling. We start the sheathing from the corner and move towards the center. The gap from the floor should be about 1-3 centimeters so that water does not approach the boards and they do not rot at a rapid speed. We take into account the gaps between the boards. It is important to leave them so that each board has its own space for movement and swelling.

How to make these gaps? Simple: the second board is driven into the first until it stops. Several stripes are marked along the seam with a sharp object. After that, the board moves to the marked lanes. Make sure the board is spread evenly using a level.

The final stage of the sheathing will be the first warming up of the room and "sampling". It is necessary to check the material for strength and make sure of its quality after the room has cooled down. If fastening defects are found somewhere, they can be additionally fixed with nails.

Finishing the bath clapboard inside with your own hands

Consider the subtleties when lining the clapboard:

• be sure to consider the location of the lining spike when installed in a horizontal position;
• fasteners must be galvanized to avoid corrosion and rust of the metal, and, consequently, smudges on the tree itself;
• observe the correct spacing between boards for proper ventilation and free movement of the lining during the heating of the room;

Finishing the lining of the bath from the inside, first of all, the steam room - this is one of the main interior elements. The best lumber for sheathing is a panel of different grades, the use of which allows you to achieve a combination of the desired technical characteristics and the desired appearance.

Material Features

Finishing a bath with a clapboard has certain features that are taken into account even during the acquisition of the material.

When buying lining for bath cladding, the following nuances are taken into account:

• high temperature in the steam room;
• temperature fluctuations;
• high or low air humidity;
• lumber price.

Such a board is considered durable, soundproof and heat-insulating material.

What clapboard to sheathe a bath inside

Lining for finishing the steam room is chosen according to the following characteristics:

• lumber type- when finishing a steam room with boards from a certain type of wood, eurolining is more often used;
• grade - the steam room is sheathed only with boards from elite various types of wood, in which there are no knots, wormholes.

However, sometimes even living wooden knots fall out over time under the influence of temperature fluctuations.

Types of wood for the manufacture of finishes for the bath

In order to choose the right lining for a steam room, you first need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the wood species from which the board is made. The sheathing of the steam room with such lumber is made from deciduous or coniferous trees.

Most often, the finishing of the bath is performed by such breeds:

• Linden. It has high resistance to moisture, retains the original color and structure of the board. In addition to finishing the bath, linden is used in the manufacture of a bath shelf, bench, bucket or door.
• Aspen. A soft rock that is highly resistant to water and steam. After intensive drying, the aspen becomes more dense and durable.
• Cedar. The most expensive of finishing materials. Cedar heats up less than linden, aspen, and also does not form resin, like pine, so it does not burn the skin.
• Pine. Inexpensive tree, which is rarely used in the steam room. Much more often, a small dressing room or a separate rest room is sheathed with pine.

The ceiling of the steam room is not sheathed with clapboard made of pine. After all, after heating, the emitted resin begins to drip onto the floor.

Standard lining parameters

The size of wooden lining is directly related to the type of wood from which they are made. Below are the recommended lumber specifications: width, length and thickness.

This information is needed to make the right choice. optimal amount lining boards. There are several cultivar differences.

Wooden lining has the following standard sizes:

• width - 80-120 mm;
• length - 0.5-6 m;
• thickness - 13-19 mm;
• spike size - 8-9 mm.

A simple lining has the following parameters:

• width - 8-15 cm;
• length - 0.6-6 m;
• thickness - 1.2-2.5 cm.

Lumber according to the EU standard has the following parameters:

• width - 96 mm (maximum);
• length - 2.1-3 m;
• thickness - 12.5 mm.

At the enterprises of the Russian Federation, the following sizes are made:

• width - 8-12 cm;
• length - up to 6 m;
• thickness - 1.3-1.9 cm.

Most often, when sheathing a bath, the following profiles are used:

• width - 96 mm;
• length - 2-6 m;
• thickness - 12.5 mm.

Thus, most of all, such boards are distinguished by length. Their direct purpose is connected with this parameter.

Varieties of lining according to the profile

There are 4 types of lining, which are distinguished from each other by the profile of the boards:

• standard;
• eurolining;
• block house (log imitation);
• American.

When finishing the bath, the following brands of lumber are used:

• "Soft Line";
• "Calm";
• "Classic".

All these boards are eurolining and have various sizes and profiles. They are sometimes called lamellas.

What clapboard to sheathe the steam room of the bath

When sheathing a steam room with a wooden clapboard, the following lumber is more often used:

• linden board, tolerates fluctuations in air temperature, exposure hot water and the formation of steam, so the lumber from it is not deformed or discolored;
• aspen lining, in terms of parameters it is no worse than linden boards, and also has a lower cost;
• a board made of maple and alder, lumber from such wood has a low thermal conductivity, so they are more often sheathed with any bath rooms, including a steam room.

Advice! When buying a lining for a bath, it is necessary to take into account the fact that in such a room the air temperature sometimes reaches 100 degrees. Therefore, to finish such a room, it is better to buy lumber only from “safe wood”.

We calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe inner lining

For example, it is necessary to sheathe a double room with a size of 3x3 m with clapboards, and the height of the ceilings is 2.5 m. In this case, the finishing is carried out on all walls and on the ceiling, and the floor is not taken into account.

There are 2 rooms in the bath - a steam room 2x3 m and a dressing room 1x3 m. Then the finishing area of ​​​​the first room is equal to the following parameters:

• area 2 long walls ok steam rooms \u003d 3 * 2.5 * 2 \u003d 15 square meters. m;
• area of ​​2 short walls \u003d 2 * 2.5 * 2 \u003d 10 square meters. m;
• ceiling area \u003d 2 * 3 \u003d 6 square meters. m.

Thus, total area bath finishing \u003d 15 + 10 + 6 \u003d 31 sq. m.

• the area of ​​​​2 long walls of the dressing room \u003d 3 * 2.5 * 2 \u003d 15 square meters. m;
• area of ​​2 short walls \u003d 1 * 2.5 * 2 \u003d 5 square meters. m;
• ceiling covering area \u003d 1 * 3 \u003d 3 square meters. m.

The total area of ​​\u200b\u200bfinishing the hallway in the bath = 15 + 5 + 3 = 23 sq. m.

The total area of ​​bath finishing = 31+23=54 sq. m. Moreover, from the final figure it is necessary to subtract the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors, after which you need to add a 15 percent supply of lumber for trimming.

Advice! You should not buy lining if it is not wrapped with shrink wrap. Such boards are considered low-quality building materials, which instantly lose color and greatly spoil the finish of the bath.

How to take measurements correctly

At proper conduct measurements for finishing the steam room with clapboard carry out the following actions:

• measure the height, length and width of the steam room where the bath will be located;
• where the stove will be installed, the walls are decorated with tiles or various stones, wooden linings are mounted in the bath at a distance of at least 40 cm from the stove;
• when taking measurements, the thickness of the thermal insulation itself is also taken into account.

If the height of a paired room, for example, is 2.5 m, the length is 4 m, and the width is 3 m, then what size is the eurolining needed? It depends on how the board is mounted: horizontal or vertical.

In the first finishing option, planks of only 1 size are used and of this length - 2.5 m. They are sheathed with walls.

If the ceiling is first finished, then a lining of a shorter length is used. Quantity running meters calculated by the width of the board.

If the bath is sheathed horizontally, then a long eurolining is used, maximum length which is equal to 3 m. When using a conventional board, first determine what width it should have.

With eurolining, things are easier. It has a width of 88 mm.

Baths made of brick or concrete must be insulated. Close attention should be paid to the choice of insulation materials, the installation of vapor barrier and the installation of the frame.

The volume of lining square meters

Below is a table by which you can find out how many square meters. m of lumber in 1 cubic meter, and also calculate the number of plank packages, where one consists of 10 lining panels. See the table below for an estimated cost.

How to sheathe a clapboard bath

Before you start decorating a paired room, you need to think through and prepare everything. As a result, things will go faster, and such repairs will be inexpensive.

Below is step-by-step instruction on finishing the bath with a clapboard with your own hands.

Sheathing the steam room with boards is carried out in several stages:

• prepare the necessary tools;
• measure the bath and calculate a certain amount of lumber;
• prepare load-bearing surfaces;
• install the frame;
• upholster the bath with clapboard.

After completing the above steps, the final installation work. New and beautiful bath trim is ready!

Preparation of materials and tools

When finishing the bath, use the following materials:

• self-tapping screws, they are used when fastening the plank sheathing and the main frame bars to the wall, if the steam room is made of logs;
• unhewn timber, the size of which is equal to such parameters - 40 * 50 mm;
• insulation;
• aluminum foil, which provides reliable vapor barrier, thanks to this material, steam does not fall on the surface of the insulation layer;
• foil tape;
• finishing nails or clips - kleimers.

In this case, you can not do without the use of the following tools:

• hammer;
• construction stapler;
• level;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Also, when lining the bath, use a drill or a special puncher. The second tool is used to finish paired rooms with walls made of concrete or brick.

Choose the method of mounting the lining

The technology for lining the bath with clapboard is the same. However, there are 2 mounting options - vertical and horizontal.

The second method is more often used, because it is more convenient for finishing and further operation.

After vertical installation, the temperature of the lumber below and above becomes different. Thus, the board quickly deteriorates and loses its shape.

Linings that are nailed horizontally are much less likely to dry out in the bath or become wider.

With a horizontal finish, the steam rooms receive the following advantages:

• visually increases the length of the wall;
• when darkening the floor, the old lining is easily changed to a new one;
• water does not enter the plank connection, lumber dries faster and does not deteriorate longer;
• the air behind such boards circulates well;
• a vertical plank frame is considered a good barrier for rats or mice;
• finishing a steam room in a horizontal way is much easier than vertical.

Important! If the lining is mounted horizontally in the bath, then its groove is directed down. Vertical installation is more often carried out in those baths that are saunas.

These rooms have dry air. There is practically no water, the walls do not darken, and water does not get into the board joints, because there is no water splash.

When carrying out vertical installation of lining in the bath with your own hands, several holes are made using a drill to ensure good air circulation in the boards.

Before sheathing a steam room, you should decide what you need to get in the end: a Russian bath or a Finnish sauna.

Lathing installation

When installing a frame crate in a bath, a beam is used, the thickness of which is greater than that of the insulation. Mineral wool is used as thermal insulation.

The timber is installed perpendicular to the direction of the lining, while taking a step equal to 45-55 cm. If large irregularities occur in the bath walls, a small lining is used from the same tree species as the lining.

Then a wooden frame (crate) is attached to the bath wall. In this case, use screws with plastic dowels or self-tapping screws made of galvanized metal.

Conducting communications

After installing the crates in the bath, they carry out communications, and also install lighting - they put light switches.

This must be done from the very beginning of finishing. After installing the lining, it will be impossible to conduct communications without violating the integrity of the skin. You have to take it all apart again.

Warming and vapor barrier

More often, mineral heat-insulating wool is used as a bath insulation. The market sells a large number various kinds this material.

The main rule for laying insulation is the absence of cracks or gaps between the heat-insulating mineral wool and the board. Otherwise, temperature bridges will form in the walls of the bath in the future.

Apart from mineral wool, as an insulating material when finishing the steam room, a polyethylene film, roofing sheets or glassine rolls are used. Strips of these materials are fixed with a construction stapler and an obligatory overlap of at least 5-7 cm is made.

To ensure greater reliability, plank joints are glued with wide construction tape or adhesive tape.

How to fix the lining in the bath

Finishing the steam room with clapboard is carried out by a hidden method. Then use various self-tapping screws, kleimers (clips) or nails.

This prevents the formation of contact with hot hardware. These devices do not come into contact with steam or hot water and they do not corrode.

Wall covering fixing

When fixing the coating on the walls, standard technology is used.

The following points are taken into account:

• the lining is fixed into a spike with self-tapping screws, which are made of galvanized steel;
• before that, holes are pre-drilled in the board in order to prevent the occurrence of chips;
• such lumber can be fastened with nails or kleimers (staples);
• the installation of the coating starts from the corner that is most difficult to get into, then the last lining is adjusted in length and width, which is practically impossible to do if access to the place of its installation is tightly closed;
• the finishing of the corners is carried out using a plinth made of wood, which is fixed with stainless steel nails.

All wood structures are covered with an antiseptic solution.

ceiling lining

Installation of the ceiling covering, as a rule, starts from the entrance. Then the lining is nailed to the ceiling only with clamps (clips) or finishing nails.

When installing lining on the bath ceiling, they use finishing nails, which are hammered with a finisher. To give an aesthetic appearance, the place where the nail was hammered is treated with sandpaper.

A gap of 4-5 cm is made between the ends of the lumber and the bath wall. Then normal ventilation is installed in the steam room and the structure is allowed to “walk”, because the temperature under the ceiling in the heated steam room is the highest.

Doors and window slopes

Before sheathing bath doors with wooden clapboard, first pre-prepare boards that have a specific length. Doorways are trimmed with platbands.

During the finishing of window bath slopes, the initial thin strips are applied to plastic lining. When using a more complex installation, the frame is first installed, and then it is sheathed with clapboard.

To do everything right, care and preparation is required.

How to sheathe a steam room with clapboard: features

When carrying out the sheathing of the steam room, it is necessary to take into account such nuances of mounting the lining in the bath:

• in a steam room, you cannot install the board horizontally, otherwise water splashes will fall into the lock and the lining will become darker, but if, according to the design, without horizontal fastening not to do, then the spikes are installed so that they look up;
• it is necessary to use fasteners that are coated with zinc, because when a large amount of moisture forms, iron quickly rusts;
• all fastening strips and corners should be slightly pointed from above so that drops of water flow down faster;
• planks must be fixed at a distance of 4-5 cm from the bath plinth, so as not to disturb the air ventilation in the bath.

If the lining has become black, it must be urgently treated with a special bleaching (for example, Senezh Sauna).

Conclusion

Finishing the lining of the bath is a simple matter. In order to independently sheathe the steam room with this lumber, you must perform the following steps:

• choose the right lumber;
• determine the type of installation;
• complete the required amount of work.

Subject to all the technology, even a beginner will independently and quickly cope with such work.

Log, concrete, frame or brick bath in any case, it requires hydro-, heat- and vapor barriers, as well as internal cladding. Traditionally selected wooden lining. It has an aesthetic appearance, is safe for health, easy to install and operate. But the modern construction market offers other solutions.

Finishing the steam room

As a rule, with a sufficient budget, the steam room is sheathed solid wood- aspen, linden, oak or cedar lining. To save money, you can use pine materials, but in this case it is necessary to check the boards for the absence of "tar pockets".

What to use besides lining? A cheaper option is sheathing with edged or unedged lime, aspen and birch boards. The tree must be prepared for installation: remove the bark, sand the surface and open it with a water-based varnish or special biocidal agents.

What is inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside? For a brick building, you can use a planed board, it is more affordable, does not require lengthy preparation for installation and provides greater thermal insulation. The thickness of the material is 1.5 times higher than the standard lining.

As a thermal insulation material, foil, parchment, jute, cotton wool, foamed foil polypropylene are used. The place near the stove is tiled.

The ceiling, in addition to lining, can be finished with tempered frosted glass. A backlight is mounted in it. The result is a rather non-standard, but modern steam room.

Heat-resistant tiles are laid on the floor. Clinker perfectly withstands high temperatures, has an anti-slip coating and is completely safe. But, if you want maximum comfort, it is better to choose a wooden flooring, alder, ash, birch or poplar are quite suitable.

If the bath was built from a log, the ceiling and walls inside do not require any sheathing. It is enough to treat the log house with a fire retardant, moisture-repellent and antimicrobial agent.

What material for sheathing should not be chosen is plastic, plywood, OSB, chipboard and any derivatives based on sawdust. Even with moisture-resistant coatings, when heated, the resins and synthetics that form the basis of the binder will begin to evaporate. And this is potentially dangerous for the body. The same applies to pine and spruce boards; they cannot be used in the steam room.

Bathroom upholstery

What material is suitable for cladding a bathroom or washing room - tile or porcelain stoneware. Unlike wood, ceramics will not require constant treatment with moisture-proof and bactericidal agents.

Glass-magnesite plates are no less popular. It is a durable, moisture resistant, non-flammable, non-toxic material that is not susceptible to the development of fungus or mold.

You can also use decorative moisture-resistant plaster, plastic panels, drywall and glass-magnesite for walls and ceilings, followed by the application of waterproof solutions. PVC, rack pebbles and fiberboard are also allowed. However, it is necessary to take care of the complete thermal insulation of the steam room.

On the floor, in addition to tiles, you can lay a moisture-resistant laminate or panels based on composite plastic. But the tile will be more practical and durable. Wooden shields are placed on top of it to avoid slipping. What interior to create in the washing room in the photo below.

Arrangement of the rest room

Here the main thing is not practicality, but comfort, relaxing atmosphere, ergonomic design. The most affordable way is to sheathe the room with pine boards. They do not rot, dry quickly, have beautiful view. According to the durability of the material, it is better to choose boards from Scandinavian pine. A pleasant light pink shade will eventually be covered with an original patina and will give the room even more comfort.

Spruce lining can also be attributed to inexpensive and high-quality finishing materials. Thanks to Swedish and Finnish hot air processing technologies, the boards acquire the necessary strength and moisture resistance. There is less resin in spruce than in pine, it is more fragrant, and small knots (which are inevitable) easily turn into the individuality of the interior.

From budget materials Laminated, polyvinyl chloride MDF panels, quartz vinyl tiles, fiberglass wallpaper, decorative plaster, tiles with a stone, brick or wood pattern are also suitable for a relaxation room. In general, everything will depend on the imagination of the owners and the style in which it is supposed to decorate the room.

There are also compositions (two-component paints) that completely imitate wood on any surface (mineral, old wood). A brick or concrete-block bath inside is trimmed with OSB or GKL panels, primed and puttied. Then paint is applied.

Since there is no increased temperature exposure and humidity in the relaxation room, linoleum flooring, tiles, edged boards or chipboard can be used for floors, followed by varnishing.

It is cheaper to stick fiberglass wallpaper on the ceiling or simply cover it with panels for painting.

But, if you still want to make a bathhouse not only a place of rest, but also recovery, the use of wood cannot be avoided. Simply selected varieties of inexpensive wood: birch, alder, poplar, aspen, pine. And for areas with increased workload, you can use oak, cedar and linden.

If the bath will be in operation all-season, it is better to install warm floors in the rest room, and it is good to insulate the walls before sheathing.

How inexpensive to sheathe a bath inside - practical recommendations

We will tell you how to inexpensively sheathe a bath inside, what materials are best suited for sheathing a steam room and a bathroom, how to equip a rest room

Interior decoration of the bath - what is used besides lining?

Bath buildings are built from logs, concrete and cinder blocks, bricks and other building materials. The lining of the interior with clapboard remains unchanged. In this article we will tell you what other finishing and decorative products can be used in the bath.

How to sheathe bath buildings besides lining?

The choice of finish depends on the purpose of the room. Inside the building, in addition to the steam room, there is a rest room, an entrance hall (dressing room), a bathroom or a washing room. If desired, a terrace, a residential attic or several square meters under a small pool.

Clapboard - versatile material, with proper processing, they can sheathe all the walls and ceiling, but it will turn out too monotonous. Therefore, a heterogeneous interior decoration of the bath is chosen.

Already from the name it is clear that 100% humidity and high temperature are periodically maintained in this room. We need a finishing material that can withstand such changes, plus, besides, it does not emit substances harmful to humans during heating: formaldehyde, ammonia, phenol and others.

• According to the specified parameters, only solid wood is suitable, so the owners always try to sheathe the bath inside with clapboard made of linden, aspen, cedar, abasha (African oak). Often planed larch or pine products are used, but slow-growing varieties should be chosen, since so-called resin pockets do not form in them. Accordingly, the resin will not constantly stand out on the surface.
• Bath, except lining, can be finished and more budget options- trimmed or unedged board from various types of wood - linden, cedar, alder, aspen. Only untreated wood will need to be pre-prepared for installation - remove the bark and sapwood, sand and cover with wood-protective water-based varnishes or impregnations with a biocidal effect.
• Wall cladding inside a brick bath with a planed board gives a much better heat-intensive effect, since the thickness of the molded products exceeds the section of the lining by 1.5-3 times.
• Do not try to sheathe the steam room and other rooms with sawdust sheets: plywood, chipboard, OSB and other analogues, even moisture resistant ones. In the process of heating, thermosetting resins, on which sawdust is mixed, begin to emit toxic fumes. The result is a poisoning of the body instead of recovery.
• On the ceiling, in addition to lining or edged boards, designers offer non-standard option- tempered frosted glass, under which the lighting is mounted. The bath will turn out to be very unusual, but modern.
• The floor can be sheathed with clinker or heat-resistant ceramic floor tiles with special anti-slip coating. It is hygienic and will withstand high temperatures perfectly.
• And the last thing: if the bath is made of rounded or profiled logs, then the finishing technology inside the building does not require sheathing the ceiling and walls with anything. It is enough to process all surfaces of the fire bio protective compounds on a water or oil-wax basis with a moisture-resistant effect.

• Bath without washing is unthinkable. Invariably the best material for the bathroom and toilet are ceramics: tiles, mosaics, porcelain stoneware. It is convenient and inexpensive, since the clapboard must not only be sheathed, but also take care of its safety. That is, constantly treat the lining with protective agents with a moisture-resistant and biocidal effect. Tiles don't need it.
• The walls and ceiling are finished with decorative waterproof plaster, plastic panels or drywall or glass-magnesite for painting with waterproof compounds, but only if the steam room is thermally insulated according to all the rules.
• But for the floor in the bathroom, the choice of products is more extensive. Traditionally used floor tiles or porcelain stoneware, but you can sheathe a small room with a modern waterproof laminate made of composite plastic (Duma Floor, Aqua-Step) or special moisture-resistant floor panels offered by the most famous manufacturers of laminated floor coverings– Egger, Quick step, Alloc and others.

• By definition, it is intended for changing clothes and precedes the entrance to the steam room. To set the mood in the appropriate way, they also try to sheathe this kind of vestibule with clapboard, but here you should not be limited to finishing options.
• A multifunctional bath is an excellent field for the application of fantasy in the field of design. Walls can be sheathed with decorative clinker or ceramic tiles imitating stone or brick, wallpaper, including fiberglass, painted in any color, applied decorative plaster, sheathed with plastic or veneered strips.
• The floor in the intermediate room requires a more or less moisture-resistant material - PVC linoleum or natural marmoleum, vinyl or ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, edged boards, and even plywood or chipboard for varnish.
• The ceiling inside the dressing room, in addition to lining, can be paneled or simply painted. Will look good ceiling wallpaper on a non-woven or fiberglass basis.

4. Room for rest.

• The bath is good because, in addition to everything else, it almost always has a room for relaxation. To create a special mood, use laminate and MDF or PVC panels with wood decor, vinyl or quartz-vinyl tiles, wallpaper with the appropriate pattern.
• Some paint and varnish manufacturers offer special mixtures that allow you to imitate wood on any mineral or old wooden surfaces. For example, in the Dulux series there is a two-component paint Trade BrushWood. A bathhouse made of bricks or concrete blocks is first lined with LSU, GKL, OSB sheets, then a composition is applied over the puttied and primed plane, which, after drying, creates a wood texture that is visually almost indistinguishable from natural.

Lining - for and against

Summing up the foregoing, it is worth noting that a bath cannot do without lining. This is the best finishing material, as it has a unique set of positive properties:

• Low thermal conductivity and high heat capacity.
• Resistant to changes in temperature and humidity.
• Breakage resistance.
• Optimum noise reduction ratio.
• Pleasant, healing scent.
• Ease of installation.

Of the minuses, it is worth noting the susceptibility of the lining to rotting and woodworms, but the problem is solvable - it is enough to treat the surface with special protective compounds for baths and saunas in order to forget about problems with wood for 3-5 years.

How to sheathe a bath inside, except for lining in the steam room, bathroom, dressing room and rest room

What are the advantages and disadvantages of lining? Overview of finishing materials for different rooms.

What is better to sheathe inside the bath?

• What should be considered when choosing a lining for a bath?
• Wooden cladding for a bath
• What else can sheathe the bath from the inside?

How to sheathe a bath inside and how much is it necessary? The question that worries the owners of these premises can have several answers. So, if the bath building is built of natural logs, the walls inside can not be sheathed, except for the elegance of using lining.

After the construction of the bath is completed, you should think about arranging it from the inside. For sheathing, the most various materials, which are selected depending on the material of the bath itself.

The walls of brick or stone, gas or foam concrete buildings must be sheathed. Firstly, this is the only way to achieve maximum insulation of the room. Secondly, bare walls look unaesthetic.

You can sheathe the walls of a bath or sauna with different materials:

• clapboard made of wood of different species or block house;
• wooden boards;
• glass-magnesium sheets.

You can make a choice that matches your tastes and financial capabilities by familiarizing yourself with the requirements for lining the bath from the inside and the characteristics of different materials.

What should be considered when choosing a lining for a bath?

In steam rooms, in no case should fiberboard and chipboard be used, since they emit toxic substances when heated.

Before proceeding with the choice of sheathing, you need to consider that wood is the most suitable material for a bath. However, in the steam room, dressing room, rest room, you can and should use its different breeds.

For rooms with the least low humidity and stable temperature (dressing rooms, rest rooms), pine can be used. This inexpensive wood does not crack, is characterized by low thermal conductivity and a beautiful pattern. Phytoncides, which pine wood has been emitting for many years, are very beneficial to health. Pine wood impregnated with resin is not afraid of fungi, dampness, mold. However, it is completely unsuitable for steam rooms or sauna interiors: when heated, pine begins to release resin. Using the steam room becomes inconvenient. And the heavy aroma of pine needles may not facilitate, but make it difficult to breathe.

For cladding rooms with very high humidity and temperature, alder, linden, abachi, aspen, poplar or larch are suitable. First, even at temperatures above 100°C, these rocks do not heat up very much. Secondly, such wood dries quickly, is not afraid of mold, fungus. It does not emit resinous substances.

Important: in the bath (especially in steam rooms) do not use materials obtained by chemical means. Fiberboard and chipboard, linoleum, laminate and similar materials release very toxic substances when heated: poisoning can occur. And they are also very flammable. The only exception is magnelite, because it is produced without the use of chemical resins and is environmentally friendly.

Wooden cladding for a bath

It is clear that the best cladding for a bath is wood or materials made from it. But what is the best way to sheathe a bath? Ordinary boards? Block house? Wooden lining? Consider the features of all these materials.

Lining for finishing the bath from the inside is great option. It is inexpensive and fairly easy to install.

1. Regular boards. Plank upholstery is attached to the crate, always at a right angle. But ordinary boards are rarely used. Untreated with antifungal compounds, they can quickly rot. A ready-to-use board is relatively expensive, but it looks worse than, for example, lining or block house. Planing the boards yourself and treating them with special impregnations is long and costly. Aligning walls with them is not easy. In addition, the boards may contain a certain number of knots, which negatively affects both the operation of the sheathing and its appearance. That is why ordinary boards often prefer lining or block house.
2. The advantages of lining are undeniable. It is she who is most often chosen for interior wall cladding in different bath rooms. Here are its main advantages:
   • since lining and eurolining are made from different types of trees, you can always choose exactly the type of wood that you like the most;
   • even amateurs do not have a question about how to sheathe a bath from the inside with a clapboard: convenient “thorn-groove” locks are allowed to cope with facing works both the novice master and the experienced professional;
   • lining from lining looks very aesthetically pleasing, attracting visitors with a unique wood pattern, panels allow you to visually align any wall;
   • the technology of laying planks requires that tiny gaps remain between them, they improve air circulation in the bath, help the walls "breathe", and prevent condensation.
3. A great alternative to lining is a block house. Outwardly similar to a natural log, this material is many times superior in strength and ease of use, does not dry out, does not crack, does not warp. How to sheathe a bath with a block house? Just like a normal wagon. First you have to build a crate (frame), and then with the help of nails, staples or kleimers, fix the block house. Be sure to be at a right angle to the crate.

When choosing a lining or block house for a steam room and other "hot" rooms, you can not choose conifers (except for larch).

What else can sheathe the bath from the inside?

Magnelite tolerates high temperatures, high humidity and is easy to install.

Sometimes the inside of the bath is sheathed with magnelite. It's acceptable, but far from the best. the best option internal lining. It is made from magnesium, fine shavings, binder and fiberglass mesh. It is believed that even at high temperatures, magnelite does not emit harmful substances into the air. It has other features that make its operation convenient and safe:

• calmly tolerates temperature changes, does not burn;
• easily tolerates any humidity, while it is not saturated with moisture, does not change shape, does not rot or mold;
• easy to assemble, does not require complex or special tools.

Magnelite is an excellent material for covering any bath rooms. However, it is preferable to sheathe a steam room with wood, although each owner independently decides how to sheathe a steam room or sauna inside.

How to sheathe a bath inside: the choice of materials

How to sheathe a bath inside, in order not only to create a beautiful aesthetic appearance of the room, but also to benefit health? What to choose: lining, solid wood or use glass-magnesium sheets?

We sheathe the bath with a wooden clapboard from the inside

In construction, it is very important that the material is as natural as possible. The most environmentally friendly of all is wood.. Wood products have a beautiful appearance and have thermal insulation properties. In addition to supporting and enclosing structures, wood is also used as a finishing material. Very often, the lining of the bath inside the clapboard is performed. Thanks to its qualities, the lining made of wood has gained wide application in construction.

Types of lining and classification

Lining is divided by type of wood:

• Pine. The most common wood for lining. It has a beautiful appearance and low cost. Over time, the pine product begins to darken.
• Spruce. Northern spruce is used to make lining. It is more durable and has a beautiful appearance. Like pine, it darkens with time.
• Canadian cedar used for bath decoration. It is not cheap, but it has excellent technical characteristics and a beautiful appearance.

• Oak. Beautiful and durable material, easy to process, expensive.
• Aspen. Beautiful light color. Has thermal insulation properties. Good for a bath.
• Linden. It is very well suited for finishing a bath, because the material does not heat up much and gives off a pleasant aroma.
• Alder. In a room with a high temperature, the material does not heat up. Also, it almost does not dry out and does not warp.
• Abash. African oak has high strength and softness of the material. Such wood does not dry out, does not warp and does not heat up. Has a beautiful appearance. Abash cost is quite high.

More often, inner lining clapboard baths are made of hardwood. In the bath, high temperature and under its influence coniferous wood releases resins. Hardwoods have practically no resin compounds, so resin is not emitted.

Of great importance is the type of wood from which the lining is made. There are 4 main varieties:

• "Extra"- wood product the highest grade without core or flaw.

• "A"- one live knot, two resin pockets and two non-through cracks per one and a half meters long product is allowed.
• "IN"- the presence of four knots (up to 2 cm) is not prohibited, two of them must be captive. Two resin pockets are also possible, the product is one and a half meters long.
• "WITH"- lining referred to this class allows two captive knots with a diameter of 2.5 cm, blind cracks no more than 5% long, two resin pockets up to 5 cm long and up to 5 mm wide, mechanical damage up to 6% in diameter, a contrasting spot up to 15 cm in diameter, as well as other spots and stripes with a total complexity of up to 5% of the entire surface of the product.

Pros and cons of lining

• Natural and environmentally friendly material that does not emit harmful substances.
• Beautiful appearance. Depending on the type of wood, the lining has different shades and textures.
• Resistance to mechanical damage.
• A comfortable microclimate is created in the room.
• Ease of installation.

• High material cost.
• The need for constant care for wood.

Methods for attaching the lining to the wall

Listed below are the 5 main ways of attaching the lining to the wall.

A clamp is inserted into the lining, which is attached to the guide rail with a nail, screw or self-tapping screw. A rail is inserted into the groove and each subsequent rail is fastened in the same way. They must be fastened tightly enough so that there are no gaps. If the last row of lining does not fit entirely, and remains big gap, then the top row must be cut to size and fixed along the guides.

First, the panel is marked in places where nails will be driven in. Then, at an angle of 45 degrees, the nails are baited into the edge with the groove. The panel is applied to the wall and then nails can be driven in. After installation, the caps are recessed so that the next lining panel can easily fit into the groove. After that, the next panel is mounted in a similar way.

This installation method cannot be used for thin lining, because it will break off.

Over time under the influence high temperature the tree may dry out a little, and the locations of the plugs will appear. To prevent this trouble, special compounds must be applied over the plugs.

The technology of performing work on the lining of the bath

1. Preparatory work. All internal communications must be laid. Finishing material should already be purchased, unpacked and laid out in a drying room. Also, you need to have all the necessary tools, for high-quality and quick work you will need:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• construction stapler;
• level;
• plumb;
• paint cord;
• square;
• hammer;
• suspensions;
• fasteners (nails, screws, self-tapping screws, staples, clamps).

Bath cladding requires significant funds for the purchase of material and its device. There is an opportunity to reduce the cost of material. There is no high temperature and high humidity in the dressing room. Therefore, it does not require special finishing conditions. In the dressing room, you can make coniferous wood paneling. The floor does not have to be made of wood, but it can be made of ceramic tiles.

In the steam room itself, it is best to cover the walls of the ceiling and floor with clapboard hardwood. In addition, all lava beds and other supporting structures must also be made of such material. This is due to the fact that hardwoods do not emit resins and do not heat up under the influence of high temperature, which ensures a comfortable stay in the bath.

Sheathing a bath inside a clapboard: types of pros and cons technology

The ideal covering for lining the bath inside is lining. It looks great in the interior of this room and is easy to install.