home > Interior Design > Clever tips for renovating a small toilet. Toilet room design: photos of beautiful interiors. Tile color and material

Clever tips for renovating a small toilet. Toilet room design: photos of beautiful interiors. Tile color and material

Summer is a time not only for vacations, but also for repairs. Everyone wants to put the apartment in order, but not everyone has enough money for this: the crisis has passed only in words, but in fact “things are still there”. But we are Slavs, which means we will get out, because the saying “need for inventions is cunning” really works.

Today we're going to take a look at the cheapest (oh, sorry, the most economical) toilet repair option. So!

Toilet- this is not only (forgive the expression) a latrine: this is a place where not only you go, but also your guests. And if the toilet has peeled walls, cracked tiles, and holes flaunt on the floor, then such a place can be called a toilet purely hypothetically: in fact, it is easier to call such a place “toilet” or “slop” (sorry for the expression). Naturally, after visiting such an “attraction”, your guests will have a not very positive opinion about you - a fact!

How to correct the situation in this matter?

Clearly, repairs are needed. But, as mentioned a little higher, you may simply not have money for expensive tiles, plumbing, etc.: all this is pretty worth it. But did you know that if you need to make repairs in the toilet, then you can get by with a fairly small amount of money?

How? We look;

In the toilet it is not at all necessary to glue expensive tiles

Firstly, this repair option has become boring for a long time, and even if the tile is very beautiful, it’s still just a banal tile.
And secondly, why spend money on tiles, if you can buy for this purpose regular tiles from foam?

Yes, yes: the same patterned tiles that are glued to the ceiling! Benefits of this repair option:

1 incredibly low cost;

2 very small specific gravity, which will allow you to significantly reduce the repair time: foam tiles do not “float”, they do not need to be constantly held and corrected;

3 adhesive paste for gluing foam tiles is very inexpensive;

4 no need to buy grout separately: as a grout for joints, use the same paste on which the tiles were glued;

5 tiles come in different color shades, so it is not at all necessary to glue white tiles: there are turquoise, blue, yellow, etc.;

6 Styrofoam tiles are very easy to cut to size (unlike tiles, which are very difficult to cut even with a tile cutter). In general, solid benefits!

The only thing that is required of you is to make the walls even. To do this, bring down old tiles

(or remove the old paint) and, using the "level", perform an algorithm for leveling the walls using a mortar.

The smoother the walls are, the cooler the foam tiles will look on those walls!

After gluing the walls of the ceiling foam tiles, do not forget to glue the top plinth (padogu): so to speak, for a better “calico”

The ceiling, of course, should also be covered with the same tiles. In general, everything ingenious is not only simple, but also economical, fast, understandable and beautiful!

And the last tip: if you want to visually enlarge toilet area, then put a blue tile on the floor!

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

Rarely when visiting friends, we admire how the toilet is installed in the toilet. But, when we need to use the services of the restroom, then we can appreciate the convenience of this necessary element. Is it difficult to install a toilet yourself? Let's try to figure this out.

First, decide on the model of the toilet. Pay attention to the fastening systems in the product design. Basically they are the same, but in some cases they may differ. You should also pay attention to the preparatory work. So, let's get to work.

Preparatory work

Before installing new toilet, decide on what method you will fix it. The simplest is to screw it to the floor with heavy duty dowels. It is important that the intended location is level. Otherwise, tightening the bolts or self-tapping screws more tightly, the fixing ears in the toilet bowl will simply burst.

Another way to fix the toilet bowl is cement pouring. In this case, it is necessary to take care of a sufficient thickness of the screed. Otherwise, it will not withstand the loads - and then it can turn out very funny.

Before installing the toilet, you must first check the communications. The water supply must be at the right distance from the drain tank. Sewerage must also be in proper condition (pipes must be airtight and have the desired slope). All this must be taken care of in advance, so that subsequently you do not have to remove the toilet every now and then in order to perform the necessary work.

Toilet installation

After we have prepared the base for the toilet and checked all the suitable communications, you can proceed directly to the installation of the "chair". Before attaching it to the base, we connect the drain pipe. Thanks to modern technologies this can be done fairly quickly and without any difficulty. To do this, you can use a corrugated siphon. If the drain tank involves fastening directly to the structure of the toilet, take extra care. Such models of toilet bowls, even with small cracks or chips, become unusable.

Some further process connecting gaskets silicone sealants. This will provide maximum leakage protection. The drain pipe does not need to be treated with such materials, as this can complicate the repair work if such is required. In addition, all connecting elements are ideally sized to each other. They are also supplied rubber gaskets that provide leakage protection. Do not worry that the pipe is not fixed tightly. The point is that in sewer system no pressure builds up. Therefore, such connecting systems are quite reliable.

In the event that the flush tank is attached to the toilet itself, care must be taken to ensure that it is not broken by those who will use the "services" of the toilet. The fact is that when a person sits on the toilet, he can automatically lean his back on the raised lid. As a result, negative pressure is exerted on the tank, and it can come off the mount. Therefore, such toilets are advised to be installed near the wall of the room. Even if someone leans back against the tank, he will not break.

Market building materials and accessories does not stand still and new options for finishing the room are constantly appearing. It is because of this that most owners of apartments and private houses have a desire to transform their housing. Today, there are a lot of instructions from the masters that allow you to make such changes with your own hands. Toilet repair is where to start.

Self repair it’s easy to make a bathroom if you figure out what materials are needed for this and in what quantity, how to properly install all the elements of the room, etc.

First you need to realize that if you not only do a surface repair of the room, but also replace all pipes and wiring, then you will need to spend a considerable amount. All construction works performed by a hired team, as well as design ideas are quite expensive. That is why it is advisable to try your hand at this difficult task. As in any other form repair work, changes in the bathroom should begin with the preparation of all necessary materials, removing old elements, pipes, cleaning floors and walls.

Required Tools

Tools need to be prepared for two tasks. The first task will be to prepare the walls themselves, and the second - the repair itself.

From building materials you will need:

Screwdriver and a set of bits for it. As alternative you can use ordinary screwdrivers. They will be needed to dismantle the old equipment and install the new one.
Perforator. It is needed for dismantling concrete skirting boards, unnecessary sections of walls, as well as for making various decorative elements in the wall.
gas key. It is applied to installation and dismantle of a sink and a toilet bowl.
Brushes and rollers. They are needed for applying a primer or other finishing works.
Spatula for applying glue.
In the case of installing plastic pipes, it is necessary to prepare special tools for cutting and soldering them.
Roulette and meter for taking the necessary measurements.
The building level is needed to control the accuracy of all work, the verticality and horizontality of the walls and ceiling in right places.

It is also necessary to prepare other metalwork and construction tools, such as a hammer, files, chisels, chisels, hacksaws and other accessories, if necessary.

Dismantling procedure

When all the tools that are needed for the job are at hand, you can proceed directly to the dismantling of all old pipes, plumbing and other accessories. First you need to make sure that the water supply is blocked on the main riser.

Then all appliances are dismantled, a sink, a bathroom, a toilet, a bidet, etc. It is also important to take into account the moment that if the family does not move during the repair, then the toilet must be dismantled last, since it will be difficult to do without it. You need to remove it only at the time of actual work, and at the end of the day install and connect it back to the sewer.

Before proceeding with the dismantling of the sink, you need to make sure that the water does not really flow after the tap is opened. You should also flush the toilet bowl before proceeding with its dismantling. To properly disconnect and dismantle the sink, you need to know its design features.

All work is performed in the following sequence:

Sinks are mounted on brackets. They are fixed in the wall. Some models also have a decorative elevation, which serves to visually cover the drain pipe and water supply. If there is such an element, then the first step is to remove it. It is fixed to the floor with screws or other fasteners. They should be unscrewed.
Next, you need to remove the siphon. In this case, you need to set aside a container for collecting water, since some of it could remain.
When the container is in the right place, you can unscrew the glass of the siphon to collect water. After that, the container can be removed, and the glass can be screwed into place, since the entire system will be dismantled.
Then everything unfolds fasteners sinks and hose system, after which the sink is completely dismantled.

After the sink is removed, you can proceed to dismantle the toilet and cistern. When dismantling it, you must first turn off the water and open the tap for checking.

Do-it-yourself repair of the toilet in the apartment is carried out in the following sequence:

Dismantling the water supply hose to the tank. After that, the tank is removed from the fasteners, if any, and disconnected.
After that, a corrugation or other connection that goes into the sewer can be removed from the toilet outlet. It is better to throw away this element immediately and install a new one.
At this stage, the toilet bowl is dismantled directly. To do this, unscrew the bolts or studs. Sometimes the toilet is cemented tightly to the floor. In this case, it will be necessary to break the entire structure. Even if you try to carefully remove it, in any case there will be cracks, and it cannot be reinstalled.

Wall cleaning

Regardless of the chosen finishing material, the old coating must be cleaned. If a tile has been installed, it is also advisable to replace it, because for a long time of operation it has already lost its aesthetic appearance, it has become saturated with various odors that may remain in the bathroom even after the repair.

Also, stripping must be done for the reason that the primer old surface cannot be processed, and even if this is done, the new coating will eventually flake off. It is better to remove old tiles with a perforator, equipped with a nozzle in the form of a chisel-shovel. Painted surfaces can be cleaned with a building hair dryer and a spatula. For this purpose, you can also use a metal brush and a grinder with coarse sandpaper.

If plaster was previously applied to the wall, then it must first be soaked with water, and then removed with a thick spatula (minimum 2 mm). Wallpaper is dismantled in the same way.

After cleaning the walls and ceiling from the old finish, you need to proceed to the dismantling of the floor. Work can be performed in the same way as the dismantling of wall tiles - using a perforator. But you can also use a chisel with a hammer. This option is longer and more labor intensive.

After all the decorative coating is removed, you need to once again make sure that the walls are even. In the right places, clean the surface with a grinder with a metal brush.

Priming work and waterproofing

After cleaning the walls, it is necessary to proceed to the priming work. First you need to take out the trash from the room. Dust is best collected with a vacuum cleaner.

Next, you need to treat the walls with an antiseptic primer. This will allow you to make a good hitch with the new finishing material. There will also be no mold. The primer must be applied in two layers.. The second can be applied only after the first has completely dried.

If the second coat of primer is dry, you can proceed to waterproofing the floor. Due to the fact that various communication elements (water supply and pipes) pass through the toilet, it is necessary to carefully consider the waterproofing system. Otherwise, there is a possibility of flooding the neighbors from below.

There are many options for how to do this. The most efficient and in a simple way can be considered the use of coating waterproofing. It is applied along the lower joints of the walls and floor in strips of 20 cm each (on the floor and on the wall). A waterproofing tape is laid on top of the coating. It will serve as additional protection against leakage in case of an unforeseen situation.

After the joints of the room are worked out, the coating is carried out throughout the floor. You need to give it time to dry. Only then can all work be continued. When the waterproofing process is completed, you need to move on to dismantling the old and installing new pipes.

Pipe replacement

If we are talking about a major overhaul of the toilet, then it is better to replace all the old pipes with new ones. This is especially necessary if the sewerage and piping system of the house has not been repaired for a long time.

It is better to replace metal pipes with plastic or metal-plastic ones. But first you need to dismantle the old ones. This can be done with a gas wrench. Sometimes you may need to cut the pipe with a grinder.

If there is no general idea of how to make repairs in the toilet with your own hands, and in particular, to make the wiring of the pipeline, then it is better to invite a specialist for this purpose. He will do it much better. In this case, many factors must be taken into account, such as the location of the water meter, taps, risers.

It is better if in an apartment building all riser pipes are completely replaced. Thus, all residents of the house will be able to connect to the riser when replacing pipes in the apartment.

Ceiling and floor processing

You can use different materials for finishing work in the toilet. The main thing is that they are moisture resistant, durable and not exposed to chemicals when washing. For this purpose, you can use ceramic tiles, special plaster, washable wallpaper, PVC panels, etc.

For the floor, it is advisable to use ceramic tiles for finishing. It will be easier to repair the toilet with your own hands in this way, since the tiles are laid simply. There are also innovative options - the so-called 3D floors. Due to the peculiarities of coloring, a certain volume is created.

Installing accessories

After the completion of the finishing phase, the installation phase of the toilet bowl, sink and other bathroom accessories begins. Due to the fact that the toilet is the most important element room, it must be installed first.

First you need to mark up its location. The toilet bowl is placed on the floor and with a pencil or marker you need to circle the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the floor. It is also necessary to mark the places for drilling holes for the bolts.

Further, holes for bolts with anchors are drilled in the marks made. After that, the toilet is installed in its place, and it is firmly screwed to the floor. Often, decorative caps are also sold complete with bolts.

They will cover the head of the bolts and give a more aesthetic appearance to the bathroom, after which it remains only to connect corrugated pipe to the toilet, which leads to the sewer, and install a tank. The latter must also be connected to the water supply. To create a more attractive look, the gap between the floor and the toilet can be sealed with sealant. Thus, you can quickly and inexpensively make the main toilet accessory - the toilet.

Installing a small and inexpensive sink is ideal for a limited space. It is better to choose a model with a small pedestal. This addition will hide all the shortcomings, pipes for draining and water intake. Before fixing the sink to the wall, you must connect flexible hoses to it. Here you need to choose an expensive option, since the hoses often crack. After installing the sink, doing this procedure will not be very convenient.

So do budget repair in the toilet with your own hands is not so difficult. Of course, there are some tasks that cannot be carried out on your own without experience. But if you use the instructions from experts, then it will be easier to make such repairs. Plus, it's pretty cheap.

The toilet is the most important room in a modern home. Thanks to the presence of sewerage and water supply, our homes can be called really comfortable, and life is convenient. But, of course, modern man strives not only for comfort, but also for aesthetics. After all, it is much more pleasant to use a beautiful, cozy and practical toilet. Everyone wants to put things in order in every room of the house, including the toilet. And it’s not difficult to do this at all, especially if you take into account the variety of goods, materials for and toilet, plumbing fixtures, furniture, etc.

Today, shops are happy to offer options for all possibilities and wishes. Using modern materials and accessories, you can turn into reality almost any creative idea and make the toilet beautiful, neat, practical and modern.

With regard to the design of bathrooms and toilets, new fresh ideas appear every year, designers never bypass these important rooms for every home. Every season there are new and new solutions and materials for their implementation. I must say that repairing a toilet with your own hands is a task that is quite feasible for every owner. If you have at least a little experience in construction matters and want to transform your bathroom, then you can safely proceed to this task. Properly selected materials and design solutions will help you cope with all tasks quickly and cost-effectively.

In addition, renovation work in the toilet, as in the smallest room in the house, can be a preparation for the transformation of other rooms. In our article you will find helpful tips, recommendations and descriptions of the processes that will be useful to you when performing repairs in the toilet. We will help you figure out where to start, what materials to use, how to perform certain tasks, how to work with plumbing.

First of all, you, of course, should decide what kind of repair is required in the toilet. Perhaps you just want to update the finishes, change the tiles, etc. Or do you need a major replacement of all plumbing, pipes, wiring, etc.? The answer to this question will determine the scope of further work and the order of their implementation.

If you decide that you need to thoroughly repair the toilet, then you will have to keep in mind that such repairs, even taking into account the modest size of the room, can be expensive. This, of course, applies to those cases when quality materials, expensive durable plumbing, good pipes. You can, of course, save a lot of money by refusing, for example, to replace pipes using cheap finish, low-grade plumbing. But is such a repair worth it? bad materials, your efforts and, in general, any investments? After all, high-quality, carefully selected materials, furniture, accessories will eventually pay for themselves many times over, as they will serve you for a long time, reliably and uninterruptedly, and also retain their original attractive appearance for many years.

Having done once really good repair in a toilet with a high-quality replacement of all communications, you can forget about the problems associated with this room for a long time. Cheap repairs will cause constant frustration and disappointment. Poorly placed low-grade tiles will begin to fall off, lose their attractiveness, plumbing will turn yellow, old pipes will leak. And you will again have to invest in the next repair of the toilet. Of course, each owner chooses independently what kind of repair he needs and how it should be done. In any case, a good solution would be to find a “golden mean” between frugality and striving for the best, which will completely match your tastes and will not be too hard on your wallet. Believe me, the modern range of materials, furniture, sanitary ware for the toilet and bathroom is able to satisfy every taste. Therefore, you are sure to find exactly what you need. We'll show you which options to consider.

In any construction project, the most important stage is the planning stage. First of all, you must determine for yourself what exactly you want to get as a result of the repair work. And then understand what exactly needs to be done for this. Outlining the range of tasks, immediately think about what you need to implement them. It is necessary to have the right tools at hand to remove the old finish and make a new one, to independently replace pipes and install plumbing, etc.

And also it is necessary to take the acquisition of materials with all seriousness. It is important to choose not only high-quality and optimally suitable for solving your tasks, but also to buy them in the required quantity. So that there is enough to complete the work, and there is a certain reserve in case of a battle or other damage. If you purchase less material than you need, then, firstly, you will be faced with the need to drop everything and go for a new batch of material, and secondly, you risk not being able to find suitable material, since some materials in different batches have a different shade, slightly different patterns, etc. Such inconsistencies can be very noticeable.

Therefore, the calculation of the material is the most important stage in the preparation for repair. It is also worth familiarizing yourself with the work that you have to perform. Before you start doing anything, try to understand the process, understand its features, to make sure that you can really do everything that needs to be done on your own. Such preparation will save you from a lot of troubles and problems that people often face during repairs. So, take a closer look at what you need to repair the toilet.

You will need tools already at the initial stage of repair, when you will prepare surfaces for further processing. Required set toilet repair tools includes:

Perforator. It is useful for removing concrete skirting boards and chipping ceramic tiles efficiently and quickly. And also it is necessary to drill holes for plumbing and furniture;
Notched trowel - used to spread the adhesive on ceramic tiles;
Screwdriver. This tool will also provide indispensable assistance in dismantling old furniture and assembling new one. It is advisable to have a screwdriver with a solid set of bits. It can be replaced by a multifunctional screwdriver, but work with it is much slower than with a screwdriver;
Pipe cutter and special apparatus for welding plastic pipes. Overhaul in the toilet requires replacement of communications. A great alternative to old metal pipes are new metal-plastic or plastic pipes. For their installation, you will need these tools;
A set of keys. Required to install plumbing;
Roulette, meter. Like all other construction work, repairs require precision. Therefore, measuring tools are indispensable;
Rollers, brushes - they perform priming, waterproofing, finishing work;
Level, plumb - allow you to control the observance of strict horizontal or vertical rows when finishing;
Other tools - a file, a hammer, a hacksaw, chisels, chisels, etc. They may also be needed during the repair process. It's a good idea to have them on hand just in case.

As you can see, the toilet repair tool kit is not that great. Difficulties can only be caused by a pipe welding machine or a puncher. But today they can be easily purchased or even rented. So if you wish, it will not be difficult for you to acquire everything necessary for independent work.

Since the toilet is a cramped room, it must be emptied as much as possible before starting repair work. If you leave the plumbing in the toilet, then, firstly, it will be terribly inconvenient for you to perform any actions, secondly, some tasks will simply be impossible to implement, and thirdly, in the process of work, you will hopelessly ruin the plumbing with accidental blows, building mixtures and other materials. Therefore, of course, plumbing will have to be removed, even if you are not going to change it. But usually, when repairing a toilet, the replacement of plumbing is still carried out. And in this case, in general, there is no reason to leave the plumber in their places. But you need to remove it correctly, following the correct sequence of actions:

The first thing to do when starting to dismantle plumbing is to shut off the water supply. Hot and cold water taps are fully closed;
After that, you can proceed to the removal of plumbing. You should start with the sink, if there is one. After that, you will need to remove the toilet.

Here it is necessary to take into account important point associated with the main inconvenience caused by the repair in the toilet. If the inhabitants of the house have a place to live during the work, then this is fine. But if there is no opportunity to temporarily leave the house, then living in it without a toilet bowl will be problematic and simply impossible. Therefore, the toilet is recommended to be removed last. Every day, before starting work, it will have to be dismantled, and after they are completed, put in place and connected to the sewer. This is not the most convenient option, but no other way to deal with this problem has yet been invented. However, this inconvenience serves as a specific incentive to complete all work as soon as possible so that the inhabitants of the house can return to normal life.

However, there is no urgent need to remove the toilet bowl at the very beginning of repair work. You can do this only at the stage of replacing pipes. But whatever one may say, the original scheme of daily dismantling and returning the toilet to its place cannot be replaced by anything. After all, it is unlikely that it will be possible to complete a complete replacement of pipes in one day.

We bring to your attention the correct sequence for dismantling the sink:

After shutting off the hot and cold water taps, you need to check whether there really is no water supply. To do this, open the taps and make sure that water does not flow from them. Don't forget to drain the toilet tank. Otherwise, during the dismantling process, it may leak out and flood the entire floor, as well as the ceiling of your neighbors from below;
The sink is fixed to the wall with brackets. An additional support for the sink itself can be created by a decorative pedestal, or "leg". This element covers the drain pipes and water supply pipes that stretch to and from the sink. If your toilet has a sink with a pedestal, then it is necessary to start dismantling it from this decorative “leg”. From below, it should be connected to the floor. It is necessary to find fasteners and disconnect them. After that, the pedestal should easily separate from the overall structure of the sink. Gently pull it out and put it away;
Now you can work on pipes and connections. You need to put a basin under the bowl, since there is probably water left in the pipes, and it will pour out when you disconnect the bowl from the pipes;
If you want to be safe, then first twist the storage glass from the siphon. Drain the water from it into the prepared basin, and then return the element to its place in the piping system. Now you can remove the pipes under the sink entirely. This pipe system is attached to the sink with a nut connection. Locate the nut at the bottom on the outside of the sink and unscrew it. You can work by hand, without a key. Hold the siphon and carefully turn the nut counterclockwise. It should spin up without problems;
When you unscrew the nut, you can remove the pipe with the siphon hose going to sewer pipe. The entire piping system that was disconnected from the sink can now be disconnected from the sewer by simply removing the end of the hose. As a result, the sewer pipe will be open, and fetid air can come out of it. It is recommended to plug the hole with a rag or cover it with a lid;
Now it's time to disconnect the hoses through which water enters the sink taps. You will be assisted in this task by spanners. As a rule, the range of plumbing connections is from 19 to 30. But other keys may be needed. The fasteners of the hoses are unscrewed, they are removed;
Now you can remove the bowl itself. If you are not going to change the sink during the repair process, then carefully remove it from the room. Without removing faucets or faucets. If you plan to replace, then the mixers can be removed.

Thus, you have already got rid of one piece of furniture in the toilet. Now you can proceed to the dismantling of the toilet. Do not forget to take into account the situation of your household. It may be better in your case to remove the toilet a little later. But tips on how to properly perform this operation will still come in handy.

Dismantling the toilet includes the removal of the toilet itself and its cistern. It happens like this:

In the process of removing the toilet, all taps must also be closed. Don't forget to drain the water tank. We warn you about this if suddenly the toilet bowl will be dismantled several days after you remove the sink;
After you have made sure that the water supply is stopped, you need to disconnect the hose that supplies water from the water supply to the tank. It is removed both from the side of the tank and from the side of the pipe;
If your toilet cistern is attached to the wall, then these connections must be carefully removed and the cistern removed. If the tank is attached directly to the base of the toilet, then you need to find the bolts connecting them and unscrew them. After that, carefully remove the tank and take it out of the toilet;
Now we need to do the base. Disconnect the wide pipe that runs from the back bottom of the toilet to the drain. This pipe is called "corrugation". It is not difficult to remove it: pull the corrugation from the toilet bowl, and just pull it out of the sewer socket. It is not worth reusing the corrugation. It is best to immediately throw it away, and when installing plumbing, use a new one. But if you install the toilet every day after the end of the work, and remove it again the next day, then it makes sense to leave the old corrugation for now;
Now the toilet is held only by bolts screwed into the floor. Some models are mounted on studs or screws. Using a suitable wrench, unscrew these connections;
Now try to slightly rock the toilet and remove it. This can happen if it was installed only on fasteners, without the use of cement. If cement was used during installation, then most likely you will have to say goodbye to this toilet. Even by unscrewing the fasteners, you are unlikely to be able to just move the toilet away from it. concrete base. It is most likely that in the process of disconnecting the plumbing will simply crack. And then you will have no choice but to buy and install a new toilet. But after all, repairs are done for the sake of renovation!
However, in some cases, it is possible to save even the toilet that previously stood on concrete mortar. If you plan to return to the place old toilet, then carefully remove it and take it out of the repaired area so as not to accidentally split it or spoil it with various building mixtures.

Now that the plumbing has been removed, you can start preparing the walls, namely, removing the old finish, in order to then do a fresh repair of the toilet with your own hands. Photos, ideas modern solutions see our article!

Before starting repairs, you need to remove the old materials that cover all surfaces in the room. No matter how beautiful your bathroom floor is or how much you love old tiles, when you make a renovation, you will have to dismantle all this to make room for new, more modern materials and stylish solutions. Old flooring, especially in places like bathrooms, absorbs odors over time. And if you leave some surface with an old finish, then, firstly, it will look shabby against the background of the updated walls, and secondly, it can fill the room with that very unpleasant smell. So you have to get rid of everything old.

It is also necessary to carefully clean the surfaces due to the fact that it is impossible to put a primer on old finishing materials, which ensures a strong connection of adhesive compositions with decorative materials. The finish laid on the old coatings will very quickly begin to crack, fall off and lose its attractive appearance. As a result, the next repair will not keep you waiting.

I must say that modern tools allow you to perform this stage of repair work relatively quickly. For example:

It is convenient to break off ceramic tiles with a puncher equipped with a chisel blade;
A building hair dryer will help you quickly get rid of old paint, which, under the influence of heat, will be well torn off with a spatula. And also painted walls can be processed grinder equipped with a metal brush;
For simple and quick removal of old plaster, the surface is moistened with water. When the coating gets wet, it can be easily removed with a spatula;
Wallpaper creates the least worries. True, they are not so common in bathrooms. In order to quickly peel them off, you need to moisten the walls with water, wait a while, and then remove them with a spatula;
After processing the walls and ceiling, it is required to remove the coating from the floor. To do this, you can use a puncher, a chisel, or do all the work manually, depending on the type of decorative coating.

When all surfaces are cleaned of the previous finish, large protrusions are removed from them, and debris is removed. It is necessary to achieve maximum evenness of surfaces. To do this, you can once again process them with a grinder equipped with a metal brush.

After the dismantling of old coatings, a lot of debris will accumulate in the room. Before proceeding to the next stage, the garbage must be taken out so that it does not interfere underfoot. After that, all surfaces are brushed again. You can use a vacuum cleaner to collect all the small particles of dust and dirt. After that, you can perform priming and waterproofing:

The primer on the surface of the toilet is applied for two purposes: firstly, due to it all decorative coatings excellent adhesion to surfaces. This improves the quality of the finish, making it reliable and durable. Secondly, the antiseptic primer composition has an antifungal effect, that is, it prevents the appearance of mold. And this is essential for such a wet room as a toilet. It is necessary to prime the surfaces in the toilet twice. The first coat must dry completely before the second coat is applied;
When the second layer dries, you can proceed to the next step. It consists in the device of a waterproofing of a floor. This is an optional step, but, believe me, it will save you more than once from unpleasant situations and the need to sort things out with your neighbors. Waterproofing provides protection against moisture penetration, and for a room such as a toilet, this is especially important. There are many communications - water supply, sewerage. And no one is immune from troubles in the form of a leaking pipe and other accidents. If you waterproof your toilet properly, you will protect your neighbors and yourself from the damage that situations like this can cause.

You can arrange waterproofing in different ways. But for the toilet, the best and most affordable option is coating waterproofing. It is distributed along the joints of the floor and walls in the form of strips, 150-180 mm wide.

Then, a waterproofing tape is placed on the wet strips laid at the joints, which must be pressed into the coating. This element provides additional protection against leakage;
Now we have to wait for the waterproofing at the joints to dry. After that, you can distribute the coating over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe floor with a thin layer. When this coat dries, a second and third coat can be applied for maximum protection. But each next layer should be superimposed only on a well-dried previous one.

When the important task of the waterproofing device is solved, you can move on to more pressing problems, namely, the replacement of pipes.

A thorough repair in the toilet involves the replacement of communications. Given the state of the housing stock, such a measure is most often simply necessary. New pipes will allow you to enjoy good water pressure and clean water.

An excellent alternative for old metal pipes are modern metal-plastic pipes, or just plastic ones. Their characteristics are excellent, so we recommend choosing them. But in order to install new pipes, you must first make room for them and remove the old ones. To do this, use a grinder or grinder with the appropriate nozzle. When the pipes are cut, they can be folded more compactly and thrown away. Now that the place is free, you can start creating a new wiring from clean and high-quality pipes. You can lay new communications in the same way as the old ones were installed, or you can choose more convenient places.

If you do not know how to perform this type of work and are insecure, then it is better not to take risks and hire a professional for this critical part of the repair. A good master will help you choose the optimal wiring diagram and installation locations for metering devices, taps, connections, etc.

The ideal time to replace pipes in an apartment is to replace the riser throughout the entrance. At this time, all owners of apartments located in one riser have the opportunity to make new pipes in the bathroom and toilet and connect them in the most convenient way to a new common riser. But such luck does not come often. Therefore, it is necessary to build on the conditions that exist today.

If you plan to use water meters and various water filters installed directly on the pipes, then the wiring can get quite complicated. If nothing of the kind is planned, then the wiring will be simple and easy to install. It is often more correct and more convenient to install new pipes in the same places where the old ones ran. Consider the main wiring options:

The simplest wiring diagram is a tee. It is she who can most often be found in the toilets and bathrooms of apartments in high-rise buildings. This scheme assumes the presence of:
Pipes for hot and cold water for connection in the sink;
Hot and cold water pipes for bath connection;
Tees for forming branches from the main pipe;
Corners for turning pipes in the right direction;
check valves;
Branch pipes for washing machine and a toilet bowl;
Water meters;
Pressure reducers for its stabilization. This element is especially important if regular pressure drops are observed;
Filters;
Shutoff valves.

The wiring is carried out from the central water supply risers. The weak point of such wiring is the uneven supply of water when it is used simultaneously at different points.

Another type of wiring is collector. Its difference lies in the fact that each water intake point has its own connection to the provided water supply collectors. Thanks to this, water is evenly distributed at all points, uniform pressure is ensured even when several points are operating simultaneously.

It is possible to perform such wiring, but for this it will not be possible to replace pipes only in the toilet. You will have to completely rebuild water communications throughout the apartment. You can install the collectors in the toilet, on the back wall, since, as a rule, the central risers are also located nearby. In this case, the back wall is covered with decorative panels.

The components of the wiring with collectors are:

Valves that ensure the flow of water into the heated towel rail or immediately into the wiring around the apartment;
Main faucet for hot water;
Main faucet for cold water;
Filters;
Metering devices;
Pressure reducer;
Collectors for cold and hot water, connected to each point of water intake separately.

A storage water heater can also be included in such a system. At the same time, when switching to its use, it will be necessary to turn off the tap leading to the intra-apartment wiring. Such a boiler will be convenient to hang in the toilet. At the same time, there are some nuances of this operation that you need to know before starting work.

In the process of installing pipes, consider where exactly the sink will be mounted, if, of course, it is provided in your bathroom.

This parameter must be considered at this stage, because it will achieve more aesthetics in the design of the toilet. For example, if the sink will stand against the wall on which the collector is located, then the connecting hoses that extend to the sink can be closed with the same box as the collector itself.

If another place is provided for the sink, then in this case the hoses can also be closed with a box. But it will be more practical to drown them in the wall. It is not difficult to do this, but you have to make some noise, since for this you need to gouge strobes in the wall - grooves in concrete into which pipes will lie. Outside, only the fitting for connecting the mixer will remain.

This method of masking pipes fits perfectly into a bathroom renovation project that includes ceramic tiling on the walls.

When you have finished working with communications, then all outlets, open fittings, or sockets, must be carefully plugged with rags or covered with covers to prevent clogging of new pipes and debris from entering them.

The sewer pipe passing under the sink is also not a decoration of the toilet. Therefore, it is also recommended to hide it in a box, drown it in a wall or on the floor. This is also done by gouging a strobe of the appropriate size and placing a pipe in it. The other end of this pipe is connected to a sewer pipe that runs from the toilet to the riser.

At the same stage, it is worth deciding on the complete replacement of the sewer riser. Of course, in an ideal scenario, it is desirable to solve this problem, especially if the condition of the current pipe leaves much to be desired. But doing this in a separate apartment can be very problematic. It is best to negotiate with the neighbors and do this work together, replacing the entire riser at once.

This completes the piping work. Now you can safely proceed to the creation of beauty, convenience and comfort. The first step is to finish with the pipes. No matter how new and neat they are, I still want to close them with something more aesthetic. We will talk about ways to mask communications.

The best way to disguise those pipes that cannot be wall-mounted is to make a decorative box for them. Consider the technology of its device:

The basis of the box is the frame, which we frame the sewer and water pipes. Then drywall sheets will be attached to this frame.

As a material for the frame, you can choose a wooden beam. More robust and reliable design can be built from a metal profile. But for a small box, a wooden base will be enough. The frame must be perfectly flat, precisely fitted in size. Therefore, all its details must be carefully measured, carefully cut and connected to each other. Control the horizons and verticals when installing the frame using a level. Fastening elements is carried out with self-tapping screws.

The frame is installed at the bottom of the wall, if all the wiring pipes are located there. For the sewer, another frame is being constructed, vertical.

In some cases, it is necessary to build a frame on the entire wall. At the same time, it is extremely important not to forget to make a window through which it will be possible to inspect and repair hidden communications. Such a window should be in any box, regardless of its size. The absence of such a window will force you to disassemble the entire box at the first accident. And also keep in mind that you will have to regularly take readings from the meters, so you must have access to them.

Inspection windows are not the only thing to consider when creating a pipe box. Another important aspect is ventilation. Very often the vent in the toilets apartment buildings located in the far wall near the ceiling. Under no circumstances should this hole be closed! If you plan to install the box in this place, then for the ventilation hole you need to make a separate box, in which, after finishing the finishing work, it will be installed exhaust fan.
When all the frames have found their places, they can be sheathed with the selected material. In this case, it is necessary to focus on the ability of the material to accept decorative trim. The best option is drywall sheets. But in some cases it is quite possible to use plywood sheets. Fixings for sheathing are carried out with appropriate fasteners;
If you have chosen drywall as a sheathing for the frame, then after installing the sheets, do not forget to treat the joints in a special way. They are strengthened with sickle and puttied. It is also necessary to putty the hats with a self-tapping screw so that the rust from them does not show through on the top finish;
Now we need to think about the door for the viewing holes. Compare what material you will make the doors from, and what material you will generally use to finish the box. This will help you determine when to install the door frame and door hardware.

if you plan to paste over the box with wallpaper, then select furniture hinges. In this case, the door is installed on the frame before finishing it;
if you do not hang the door, but install blinds in the opening, then they can be installed after finishing the box;
if the box is sheathed with PVC panels, then the door can also be made from them. In this case, the door is installed on the rails of the box frame;
and also for the door, you can design a special frame for the size of the holes left. This frame is inserted into the box after finishing. Along the perimeter, it is sheathed with baguette slats.

When the box is completely sheathed and puttied, its surface must be coated with a primer. Wait until the first layer dries and apply the primer again. Now, while the box dries, you can move on to finishing other surfaces.

A vivid example of how to repair the toilet, photo. With your own hands, you can implement all the solutions presented in our article. You can use any materials suitable for rooms with high level humidity. It is desirable that they be resistant to various negative factors: chemicals, detergents, fungus, etc. Based on these requirements, ceramic tiles, primer impregnated plaster, washable wallpaper, PVC sheets can be offered as the optimal material for finishing the toilet.

For the floor, it is advisable to choose quality tiles. If this traditional option does not suit you, then we recommend paying attention to an epoxy-based self-leveling screed, otherwise it is called 3D floors. This coating allows you to create multi-layered images with a noticeable 3D effect. But this option cannot be called affordable, as well as for independent implementation. Therefore, we propose to take a closer look at more accessible and traditional ways surface finishes in the toilet.

Features of the use of ceramic tiles in the decoration of the toilet

Ceramic tiles are ideal for finishing any room with a high level of humidity. Performance characteristics make this material optimal for use in bathrooms. In addition, modern manufacturers offer the widest variety of colors and textures, which allows you to create really original combinations and compositions. But to achieve an impeccable result, it is not enough to choose high-quality tiles. It needs to be of good quality. Let's take a closer look at the features of this process:

The surface you plan to tile on must be level. If the walls or floor in the toilet do not meet this requirement, then leveling with drywall or putty will be required.

A faster and easier leveling option is drywall. Among other advantages, this method is also the cleanest. Plasterboard sheets can be glued to walls or mounted on dowels. Do not forget about the need to handle the joints of the sheets in a special way and putty the fastener caps. We talked about how to do this correctly when we examined in detail the device of the pipe box.

If the irregularities on the walls are pronounced, then it may be necessary to build a frame to fix the drywall sheets.

But in relation to the toilet, the use of sheets on the frame cannot be called very successful, since the frame will reduce the area of an already small room. Therefore, instead of a full-fledged frame, you can make a thin crate of slats 15-20 mm thick.

After, it must be primed and wait for it to dry. After that, you can start laying tiles.

You have to start from the bottom. In the process of laying, do not forget to control the horizontal and vertical rows with the help of a level. Special plastic crosses inserted into the seams help to leave an equal distance between the tiles.

Sometimes individual elements need to be trimmed. This should be done with a tile cutter or grinders with a special diamond wheel;
The connection of the tile to the surface is carried out by means of special composition. It is distributed on the wall with a notched trowel, and then the tile is pressed against it;
When all the rows are laid out, it is necessary to wait for the seams to dry, and then treat them with grout, which is selected according to the color scheme to match the overall design;
When completed, you can do the floor. It also needs to be leveled. It is most convenient to use a self-leveling mixture in this situation. For the toilet, you need a little of it, it will cost inexpensively, and the result will be impeccable.

Laying tiles is one of the main steps that make up a do-it-yourself toilet repair, the video from our article will help you cope with it perfectly!

Features of the use of PVC panels in the decoration of the toilet

Using PVC panels is a simpler and more affordable option than using tiles. It is easier to work with this material, its installation is much faster, and its cost is lower. No dirty work is required. Everyone can fix the panels on the walls. The main point that must be taken into account is the strict observance of the evenness of each row.

Under plastic sheathing frame is also installed. It levels the unevenness of the walls and allows you to mount the panels as evenly as possible.

PVC panels do not have a long service life. At the very least, it is significantly shorter than the service life of high-quality ceramic tiles. But once made, the batten will allow you to change the top skin as often as you like, and it will be very easy to do.

Let us consider in more detail the process of wall cladding with PVC panels:

Let's start by mounting the frame on the ceiling. Don't forget to leave room for lights. It can be Spotlights or one ceiling lamp.
In practice, the crate is performed simultaneously on the ceiling and on the walls.
To create a frame on the ceiling, a metal profile or timber is used. When the crate is attached to the stream, electrical communications are carried through it to the installation sites of lighting fixtures. Naturally, when performing work, the cables must be de-energized;
corner moldings are installed at the junctions of the ceiling with the walls. The grooves located in them will be the place for fixing the wall panels;
V ceiling panels holes cut out for lighting;
after that, the panels begin to be fixed on the ceiling crate. Start the task from the wall. When the ceiling is sheathed, the wall sheathing begins.
On the walls, as well as on the ceiling, a frame is arranged. It is attached to the surface with dowels. For horizontal installation of PVC panels, the frame must be vertical, for vertical installation - horizontal.

Since the toilet is a small room, the frame must be made with the calculation of saving space. Its slats in thickness should not exceed 20 mm. When installing a crate, it must be immediately built according to the level, and also lining should be made in the places of future fasteners.

Frame racks are installed in increments of 400-500 mm.

In the surface of the slats are fastened with dowels. The holes for them are drilled immediately through the rail and the wall, then a plastic dowel is hammered into the hole, and a self-tapping screw into it.

A starting molding is attached to the rail near the floor. It will hold the ends of the panels;
panels located near the ceiling take their places in the corner molding, which were mounted during the ceiling sheathing;
corner molding is also mounted along the vertical corner parts in order to connect the extreme panels of two walls;
now the panels must be cut in accordance with the height from the lower molding to the upper;
panel installation starts from the corner. The first element is inserted into the grooves from three sides: from above, from below, from the end directed into the corner. It is very important to install this panel as evenly as possible, as it sets the evenness of the entire row;
Panels can be attached to the frame in several ways. You can use nails by driving them into the hidden parts of the panels. Another way is to use special clamps that are put on the narrow side of the panel groove and connected to the rail. Such kleimers allow you to partially disassemble the laying of panels. There are also clips designed for mounting panels. Using them is simple, but in this case, the usual frame will not work. You will have to additionally mount the guides with which these clips will be connected.

Features of the use of washable wallpaper when finishing the toilet

It would seem that wallpaper is not the most suitable choice if you started repairing the toilet with your own hands. The videos in our article may convince you otherwise! Covering the toilet with washable wallpaper is one of the simplest and most affordable solutions. If you approach its implementation carefully and carefully, the result will be quite good.

Of course, this finish is much less than ceramic tiles. But its price is also more affordable. Therefore, you can change the washable wallpaper in the toilet at least every year.

The walls must also be leveled before gluing. As with ceramic tiles, drywall sheets can also be used. Wallpapers look great on them.

Wallpaper strips must be glued end-to-end. Accuracy and accuracy are especially important when working with wallpapers that have a pronounced pattern.

This finish is suitable not only for walls, but also for the ceiling. When choosing colors, keep in mind that bright hues promote visual expansion rooms, and dark ones, on the contrary, make it visually cramped.

Color-matched floor and ceiling skirting boards complete the wallpaper finish.

After all surfaces have received a decent finish, you can arrange the plumbing in its place.

First, the toilet is installed. The work is carried out in several stages:

The installation site is carefully marked. To do this, the toilet must be placed in its future place and circled with a pencil or marker, and it is also necessary to highlight the attachment points;
Now the toilet can be set aside and armed with a perforator. Holes for fasteners are drilled at the marked points in the floor. Anchors or dowels are driven into them;
The toilet takes its place and is fixed with fasteners. The bolt heads are covered with special decorative plastic overlays, which usually come with the toilet;
Now the toilet must be connected to the sewer and water supply. To do this, a corrugation is put on the lower opening of the toilet bowl and connected to the sewer socket;
Next, the tank is connected. The connection method is determined by the toilet model:

the cistern can be installed directly on the back of the toilet. Then the toilet bowl and the cistern must have appropriate holes for fasteners, and special fasteners, seals, etc. must be present in the kit;
if there are no such holes, then the tank must be attached to the wall, and connected to the toilet through a pipe supplying water.

Thus, the tank is attached in accordance with the instructions supplied with the specific model. In the same way, the assembly of the drain mechanism is carried out. After that, you need to connect the tank with plumbing system. To do this, use a special hose that stretches from the tank to a special fitting on the pipe;
After that, the gaps between the floor and the base of the toilet bowl are treated with a sealant.

When the toilet is installed, you can begin to install the sink. When choosing one or another model, consider the possibility of hiding connections and pipes in a pedestal or bedside table. The installation of the sink is carried out as follows:

First you need to prepare the sink for installation. And this involves the installation and connection of connecting hoses. After installation, these manipulations will be much more difficult. Can be installed immediately top elements drain system to the siphon;
After preparation, you need to attach the sink to the wall. Usually, anchors or brackets are used for this, depending on the model;
Now you need to connect the flexible hoses from the faucet to the pipe fittings. At this stage, it is recommended to install taps on the fittings in order to be able to turn off the water only at this point. If the taps are installed, then the hoses are connected to their nozzles;
After that, a siphon is installed in place and connected to a hose leading to the sewer. Then all connections are checked for tightness;
Now you can install a pedestal or bedside table.

When all manipulations with plumbing are completed, it is necessary to check the systems for leaks. No drops should appear on taps and pipes during a test run of water.

Self-repair in the toilet is quite within the power of those who really dream of bringing their ideas to life and have at least modest experience in the construction business. We hope that our article will be for you good helper in this case!

Sooner or later, all of us have to deal with such a problem as the repair of the toilet room. Unlike other premises, for a quality repair, it may be necessary to replace sanitary ware, water pipes, and install meters. And the cost of finishing can vary significantly, depending on the material chosen. In this article, we will see how to make quality work at minimal cost and where to start repairing the toilet.

The entire toilet repair process can be divided into separate stages for convenience.

Before starting all work, it is necessary to work out the design and layout of the bathroom, select the expected type of finishing materials and plumbing, and draw up an estimate taking into account unforeseen expenses.

Room cleaning

A complete repair in Khrushchev means cleaning everything installed in the toilet. Only supply pipes, a riser and bare walls with a ceiling should remain. For convenience, it is better to carry out in the following sequence:

We beat off the old tiles from the walls with a puncher or a hammer with a chisel. Old plaster or wallpaper is also best removed by pre-soaking with water. If we finish on the old flooring, we will have to reduce the size of the room by 3-5 cm, which is undesirable for such a small space. In addition, it is unreliable and short-lived.
We remove the tiles on the floor. We clean the resulting surfaces with a metal brush nozzle on a drill.
We wash the whitewash from the ceiling and wash off the dust and dirt from the walls.
Now you can start dismantling the plumbing. To do this, the cold and hot water supply valves are blocked. If the combined bathroom is being repaired, then it will be necessary to disconnect the sink along with the faucet and drain. Usually, after old sinks, fastening brackets remain - they also need to be dismantled.
The toilet itself can be left until the last, so that it can be used. Before removing, we drain the water from the tank, unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor and beat off the drain into the riser, if it is cemented. We remove the drain pipe to the very riser, it will no longer be useful.

The better the room is cleaned at this stage, the easier it will be to deal with finishing work later, especially with tiles and wallpaper. The exception is pvc paneling, for which it is enough to make a frame over old walls.

Replacement and repair of communications

Having received open access to the riser and supply pipes of hot and cold water, you can begin to replace them, repair, install meters. In old houses, the wear of all communications reaches the limit, so you should take care of replacing the riser and pipes in your apartment. The best material for the riser will be reinforced polypropylene, and it is better to entrust all work on its replacement to specialists from the Housing Office. It will be faster and better than self-replacement. Responsibility for the work performed and possible accidents will lie with the installers and the management company.

Further intra-apartment wiring can be done on your own using metal-plastic pipe or corrugated stainless steel. plastic pipes they are well cut and easily connected to each other with the help of fittings and a special soldering iron. Such a connection turns out to be very reliable and durable, and a wide range of pipes and fittings allows you to build wiring of any configuration in the bathroom.

The gray or white pipes themselves look quite aesthetically pleasing, but it would be more correct to put them in special boxes, which will then be covered with finishing materials.

For small toilet This optimal solution- the riser is closed with a vertical, and the piping - with a horizontal box of moisture resistant drywall or plywood. Soundproofing can be additionally laid in a vertical box.

It is also possible to lay the pipe in a specially hollowed-out cavity in the wall. This option looks more aesthetic and takes less space. It is only necessary to take care of the easy accessibility of the valves that shut off the water to the apartment.

Surface preparation and cladding

It is best to start with the walls and ceiling. So concrete walls are easy enough, but brick or cinder block walls may be required. In general, planes in such small rooms are rarely with strong deviations, otherwise you will have to resort to plasterboard lining or PVC panels.

For puttying, we need two spatulas - a worker, 30 cm long and an auxiliary, 5 cm long, a cement-based putty mixture, for example, Vetonit. Preferably a drill with a special nozzle and a bucket. Ready mix with a short spatula is applied to the main one, and then smeared from the bottom up along the wall. By changing the angle of inclination of the working tool, it is possible to fill deep depressions and level the already applied putty. After 3-4 hours, problem areas can be re-treated. The time for complete drying of the putty is 24 hours. Then the wall is sanded and primed.

After leaving the walls to dry, you can start leveling the floor. For this, a quick-drying screed is used. The mixture is prepared based on 1 m2 with a thickness of 1 cm, 12-13 kg of dry material will be required. The resulting solution is poured in a thin layer on the floor, and then leveled with a spatula, referring to the installed beacons and level. It is necessary to obtain a flat horizontal surface.

When all the preparatory work is done, it is time to realize the conceived ideas for repairing the toilet. It is also better to start fine finishing from the walls and ceiling.

Wall coverings

When choosing a material, you must be guided by the same principles as for a bathroom or a combined bathroom. In old houses, the toilet is a small unventilated room with high humidity, in which wet cleaning will be carried out periodically.

Therefore, preference is given to moisture-resistant materials that do not absorb odors and are easy to clean.

PVC panel walls

Laying tiles is similar to the work done on the floor in the toilet, and the installation features of plastic panels should be considered in more detail.

We measure the area of \u200b\u200ball walls minus windows and a doorway. This also includes the cost of lining technological boxes and make a small margin for trimming and fitting. All pvc panels are produced in lengths from 2.5 to 3 meters, the standard width is 30 cm. We calculate the integer number of planks and additional elements - corners, skirting boards, connecting profiles.
On the walls we attach a crate of wooden slats or metal profile. They should be located horizontally and as often as possible for greater rigidity of the entire structure. Fastening is carried out using dowels. At this stage, we fix the embedded rails for mounting hanging cabinets, mirrors and water heaters, we lay the wiring to the sockets and switches.
Fasteners of the first panel start from the corner. We fix it with a self-tapping screw with a press washer or small nails, each subsequent one is inserted into the groove of the previous one. This is how the seamlessness of the coating is achieved, and it is impossible to make a mistake with such an assembly.
Excess material can be cut off with a knife or grinder. After completion of work, the corners are closed with additional elements, and the joints of the floor and ceiling with skirting boards.
ceiling lining pvc panels carried out in a similar way.

Wall and floor tiling

Ceramic tiles are found on sale in any size, color range and for any budget. This material is very durable and practical, which is why its popularity is so high. The disadvantages include only laboriousness and a large amount of dust and debris.

Consider how to make repairs in the toilet using tiles:

Walls and floors must be pre-prepared and primed. You can additionally apply an antifungal primer, and if the laying is on top of drywall, then a special mixture such as concrete contact, for better adhesion. All communications and wiring are laid in cable channels.
We start laying tiles on the floor from the corner near front door. For walls, it is necessary to screw the base metal profile around the entire perimeter, carefully aligning it in level.
The glue is sold in dry form and is prepared in small portions immediately before laying in order to have time to use within 30 minutes. The kneading is carried out using a drill with a nozzle.
We apply glue with a notched trowel from the bottom up, the layer of glue should approximately correspond to the thickness of the tile. The first tile is placed in the corner, next next and so on. At intervals we fix plastic crosses to ensure the uniformity of the gaps.
Floor tiles can be laid at a time, and wall tiles, due to their heavy weight, are best not to stick more than 3-4 rows at a time. It will be right to take a break for a day so that the glue finally grabs the wall.
The tiles are cut with a special tile cutter, you can use a grinder with a special abrasive disc. During this procedure, marriage is possible, so the number of tiles should be purchased with a margin.
After the tile is finally glued, the crosses can be removed and the seams filled cement grout- fugue. It's done rubber spatula, and the shade of the solution is selected according to color scheme toilet. It is better to choose a grout for the floor in a dark or gray color - it will not get so dirty underfoot.

Plumbing installation

When all dirty work after finishing, you can proceed to the final stage of repairing the toilet. You should start with the installation of the toilet.

Having installed the toilet bowl on the floor, it is tried on and its location and attachment points are marked with a marker.
We remove the toilet bowl to the side and drill holes for the dowels with which it is attached to the floor.
We fasten the toilet bowl, close the bolt caps with decorative caps.
We connect the toilet pipe with a corrugated pipe with a pipe on the riser. We seal with special rings with cuffs so that the connection is tight.
Install from above flush tank on a special platform or fasten it to the wall. We collect the insides of the tank - a float, a valve, a flush lever and connect it to the cold water pipe according to the instructions.

If the dimensions of the room allow or the bathroom is combined, then it is necessary to install a sink and a faucet. For ease of installation, it is better to assemble and connect the mixer before attaching the sink to the wall. Having attached the washbasin to the wall with dowels or anchors, we proceed to connect the flexible hoses to the threaded fittings that were previously removed. Lastly, we install a siphon and drain into the sewerage system with a seal with a rubber cuff.

After installation is complete, it is necessary to flush the entire system. big amount water. All identified leaks are repaired. Now you can close communications and drains with a decorative pedestal or cabinet. The joints between the floor and the toilet can be filled with silicone sealant.

In the presence of minimum tool and finishing skills, you can easily realize your creative ideas for repairing the toilet. You can do it yourself - quickly and inexpensively.

August 5, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

If you decide to master the technology of finishing work, then do-it-yourself toilet repair will be an excellent workout for you: a small area of \u200b\u200bthe room will significantly reduce time and financial costs, and at the same time you will be able to practice performing a variety of operations.

Of course, the repair and design of the toilet can be implemented according to a variety of schemes, but in this article I will give the most common option, which takes into account the preparation for finishing, the tiling of the floor and walls, the installation of a false ceiling, and the installation of plumbing.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the room

So, initially we are dealing with a small room: for example, in the 137th series of standard apartments, the dimensions of the toilet are 120x85 cm. Therefore, we need to implement the most compact design option, while using materials that are affordable and not too difficult to work with.

When deciding where to start repairing the toilet, it is worth assessing its original condition. And if it becomes obvious that a complete reconstruction is required to bring the premises into a decent appearance, we will first of all remove old finish. For this:

We dismantle the toilet, disconnecting it from the sewer riser and water supply, and then removing it from the stand that fixes the product to the floor.
We inspect the condition of the pipes, and if they require replacement, we dismantle them as well.
We remove the old finish - tiles, wallpaper, paint, etc. To clean surfaces, we use either a perforator or a drill with a nozzle in the form of a stiff wire brush.

When a complete reconstruction is planned, we dismantle and old wiring. If the wires are laid in deep strobes, then they can not be removed - just de-energize the branch and cut the conductors close to the wall.
After removing construction debris, we treat the surfaces with an antiseptic. This will allow us to avoid the appearance of fungi and bacteria after finishing.

Laying communications

At this stage, we need to lay all the communications that are responsible for the functioning of the bathroom. This includes sewer pipes, water supply pipes and electrical wiring.

IN panel house of a typical building, very often it is in the toilet that vertical risers with cold and hot water pass. In order not to carry out a comprehensive reconstruction, it is here that it is worth laying a distribution unit, hiding all pipe bends in a special cabinet or box.

When doing toilet repairs, I usually do this:

First, I lay a sewer pipe connecting the toilet to the riser. Usually this segment does not differ in significant length, therefore it can be laid with a minimum slope towards the drain. I choose a branch pipe for direct connection in such a way that it matches the configuration of the toilet bowl outlet - straight or inclined.
At the same stage, I lay drain pipes connecting the sewer riser to the bathroom and. I fix the pipes on the wall with clamps, making sure that a slope of about 2 cm per linear meter is maintained.

I cut a tee into the cold water supply riser, to which I connect the outlet for the drain tank. If it is planned to install a washstand in the bathroom (such options are implemented in visits larger area) - I make two separate taps with cold and hot water to connect to the mixer. They should be made hidden, so you will have to cut separate strobes under the pipes.

Consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If you need it (even if you do not plan to install it right now) - immediately lay the piping for its installation.

I lay the wiring for installing a socket for a water heater in a strobe. For ceiling lighting, I run a cable in a corrugated plastic channel, which I fix with wire hangers.

From wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a metal profile I form a box for masking risers, piping and other elements. It should be sheathed immediately before finishing - so we will not damage the drywall in the course of other work.

Actually, this is where the preparatory operations end. After that, we move on to finishing.

Toilet finishing

Ceiling

When thinking about how to make repairs in the toilet, we must first approve the order of finishing work.

Masters practice a variety of schemes, but I still prefer to move from top to bottom - this minimizes the likelihood of staining or damaging the “finishing” area, and I don’t have to spend time masking already finished surfaces with film, fabric, newspapers, etc.

It is for these reasons that I prefer to start with the repair of the ceiling:

Along the perimeter of the room in the upper part, I beat off a straight line at a distance of about 50 - 70 mm from the ceiling.

The offset depends on the dimensions of the recessed fixtures. If you plan to use small lamps, then 40 mm may be enough.

I install along the line on the walls either start profile made of galvanized steel or wooden beam.
I attach guides to the ceiling with the help of metal suspensions: I also make them either from a bar or from a metal profile. Fixing all parts to the bearing surfaces is carried out using dowels for express installation.
After completing the work on the frame, I bring the wires to the places where they will be installed.

To the profile fixed along the perimeter, I attach a special ceiling plinth with a groove for plastic panels. For fastening to a tree, I use galvanized staples, which I hammer with a construction stapler.
The most inexpensive, but at the same time practical option- this is a ceiling lining with plastic panels. I cut the PVC lining to size, after which I install it on the ceiling: the ends must be inserted into the grooves of the plinth, and the edges of the locks should be fixed on the frame beams with a stapler.

In the selected place, I make a hole in the plastic panel, through which I bring out the wires to connect the lamp. I usually put the device itself at the very end of the repair, so a temporary construction of an incandescent lamp with a cartridge tied to the wires with electrical tape is used for lighting.

Walls

After completing the work on the ceiling, I move on to the walls. The best option there will be tiling here: a small area significantly reduces purchase costs and minimizes labor costs, but the finish is hygienic and durable.

Sequence of work in this case will be as follows:

I check the walls with a level, and if necessary, I perform a rough leveling. For high-quality cladding, it is important that the differences along the plane do not exceed 5 mm per 1 m - anything less can be compensated for by varying the thickness of the adhesive layer.

When leveling, it is advisable to first try to knock down all the protrusions with a perforator, and then grind the concrete surfaces. The thing is that plastering surfaces, and even in a room such as a bathroom, is difficult, long and expensive.

I treat the walls with an antiseptic primer: it not only improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition, but also prevents the formation of fungal colonies under the tiles.
I sheathe the frame of the box with pipes with moisture-resistant drywall.
I soak the tile in water for about 2-3 hours. This trick allows you to greatly improve the adhesion to the glue, which is important, especially if you do not have enough experience and work slowly.

I prepare the adhesive mixture by diluting the dry component in cool water. I mix the glue thoroughly with a nozzle on a drill: you need to do this at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Now I'm going to start tiling:

I take a level and mark the walls, drawing lines along the bottom edge of each row. I make indents between rows: the thicker the tile, the wider the seam can be.
Using a grater, I apply a layer of glue to the wall. With the serrated edge of the tool, I form grooves for uniform distribution composition.
It is important not to apply glue on too large plot. Be guided by howling speed of work: the surface of the adhesive composition should not dry out!
According to the markup, I apply the tile to the wall, press it and level it. With a spatula, carefully remove the protruding excess glue.
To maintain the same thickness of all seams, I install plastic remote crosses.

Tiles on the walls are laid in rows, from top to bottom. To get a beautiful pattern, you can arrange elements with an offset - while the tiles in each next row are shifted by 1/2 of the width. The accuracy of laying is checked using a level and a plumb line, if necessary, the position of the tile is corrected and added/removed adhesive composition.

After finishing the lining, I give the surfaces 12 hours for the glue to polymerize, and then I rub the seams. Grout is a paste that fills the gaps between the tiles: this way we will not only improve the appearance of the room, but also protect the base from moisture penetration.

When the grout dries, I will have the last, purely cosmetic step: wash the tiled lining and wipe it with a clean, dry rag. If we were careful enough to remove excess adhesive and grout from the surface in time, then this task would not require any significant effort.

Floor

Before I repair the floor in the toilet with my own hands, I usually evaluate its condition. In most cases, restoration of the waterproofing layer is required, therefore the first part of the work on the flooring is carried out before the walls are finished.

To begin with, the base is once again cleaned of dust and debris and impregnated with a penetrating primer.
Then with my hands I apply waterproofing mastic based on bitumen or liquid rubber. This layer protects the ceiling and the premises below it from leaks, therefore it is worth forming the so-called “trough” here - waterproofing not only the floor, but also the walls to a height of about 15 cm.

On top of the waterproofing, I pour a leveling screed up to 50 mm thick. For pouring, I use self-leveling compounds with fast curing: their price is higher than that of the standard cement-sand mixture, but they also save time, and at times.

After the screed has dried (at best it will take three to four days, at worst, if we saved on materials, we will have to wait two to three weeks) I treat the floor surface with primer.
For work, I choose only floor tiles: they are both stronger and less slippery. Attempts to use cheaper wall tiles will lead to the fact that after a couple of years the floor will have to be shifted.

On the base with a grater I apply cement-based tile adhesive. I evenly distribute the adhesive composition over the surface of about 1m2 and proceed to the cladding.
I lay the tiles either in rows or alternating in accordance with the planned pattern, for example, tiling in black and white.
As in the case of wall decoration, I maintain the width of the gaps using spacers.

After facing, I let the glue dry, rub the seams, dry the grout, wash it and wipe the floor.

Installation and connection of plumbing

The repair of the toilet itself ends here, but we still have to install the equipment. No special difficulties are foreseen here, but it will take a lot of work, especially if, in addition to the toilet, you also need a washstand:

We install the toilet bowl on the floor in the chosen place, using either a special rubber lining or a wooden board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound.
In place of the mounting holes, we make notes, remove the toilet bowl and drill nests with a perforator to fix the product.

We hammer dowels into the nests, install the toilet in place and fix it with anchor bolts. At the same time, the outlet of the toilet bowl is either brought directly into the sewer pipe, or connected to it using a flexible corrugation.

From above we install a tank, which we fix on the base with screws with union nuts.
We attach a hose with cold water to the side or bottom of the tank.
We apply the sink to the wall and mark the attachment points.
According to the marking, we drill holes into which, as in the case of the toilet bowl, we hammer plastic dowels.

Next, we either fasten the brackets to the wall, on which we install the washstand, or fix the sink itself on the base using anchors with union nuts.
We connect a siphon to the sink drain, which we connect with a flexible corrugation to the sewer pipe.
We install the mixer, bringing flexible hoses with cold and hot water to it.
After completing all these manipulations, it will be possible to check the performance of the system and check the absence of leaks.
Then we take the prepared recessed fixtures, connect the wires to their terminals and install the lamps in the holes on the ceiling.

Our toilet is ready and ready to use!

The cost of consumables

To answer the question of how much it will cost to repair a bathroom, you need to know its area, and what materials will be used, and whether we will do the finishing on our own or turn to specialists. However, even with the most accurate estimates, the estimate tends to increase, so it is worth putting about 30% more money into the budget than it turns out according to the calculations.

To facilitate budgeting, I advise you to use the table containing the estimated prices for materials used in the repair of the bathroom. Of course, this information is for reference only (prices in online stores were taken as the basis), but it gives an idea of the order of numbers in full:

Material	Unit	Cost, rubles
Waterproofing mastic	5 kg	1100 — 1600
Tile adhesive CM 9	25 kg	250 — 450
Grout for tiles	5 kg	600 – 1200
Penetrating primer with antiseptic	5 l	250 — 500
Floor leveling compound	25 kg	280 – 750
Tiles for walls budget	m2	45 — 90
Tiles for walls of the middle price category	m2	250 -500
Ceramic floor tiles	m2	250 – 2500
Acrylic paint for internal works	5 kg	200 – 500
Profile for drywall	panel 3 m	50 — 150
Drywall hanger	PC.	5 — 25
Wooden beam for the frame	panel 6 m	80 — 200
PVC lining for ceiling lining	m2	150 -250
Sewer pipe for outdoor work 110 mm	1 m.	125 — 200
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm	1 m.	75 — 150
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm	1 m.	70 — 120
Compression fitting for metal-plastic pipe	PC.	250 — 500
Mixer with short spout	PC.	1500 — 2200
Inexpensive washstand Santeri	PC.	900
Toilet-compact Santek	PC.	3100 — 3500

In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the bathroom, you need to consider that we will need other little things like fasteners, sealants, gaskets, etc. So the budget reserve mentioned above will definitely not be superfluous.

Conclusion

Toilet repair is a kind of training ground for “running in” the skills of a novice builder, finisher, plumber and electrician. Based on the recommendations given, the tips in the comments and the video in this article, you will be able to lay the foundations of your skill, and in the future successfully cope with much more complex projects.

August 5, 2016

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