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Renovation of the toilet room Renovation of the toilet. Interesting small toilet design. We do our own toilet renovation! Their benefits are undeniable.

The toilet room in any house or apartment must be done flawlessly. But not everyone knows exactly how to achieve this and what points to pay attention to. Moreover, methods for one type of building are not always suitable for others.

Peculiarities

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is available to almost all amateur builders. As always, you will have to take care of a well-thought-out design concept, the selection of materials. Difficulties in performing the work may be associated with insufficient space, but thanks to the simplest actions, these limitations are overcome.

It is very important not to forget for a moment about the increased hygiene standards that are inherent in the bathroom like no other room. Before using any recommendation you like, you need to understand whether it is justified and what result its implementation will lead to.

Options for different rooms

When it comes to renovating a small toilet, the first step is to come up with a concept. Moreover, if for a larger bathroom, misses in it can still be corrected at a certain stage of work, then here you will have to redo everything anew, incurring additional costs. Before designing in Brezhnevka or in a small apartment of an earlier period, you need to take it into account technical condition. No matter how carefully they once built, all structures can become unusable.

Any project in such apartments should be drawn up taking into account the most efficient use of the available space.

In modern standard apartment much more room for decision making, but one thing remains unchanged: projects that require redevelopment are always worse than those that do not provide for it. It's not just about possible problems, conflicts with neighbors and housing inspection. Difficulties are also caused by an increased amount of work (both during dismantling and during installation).

For a country toilet, waste disposal is a problem. You need to immediately decide whether it is possible to connect to the central sewer or you have to look for workarounds.

Capital

Having dealt with the features of a particular dwelling, you need to find out how much the bathroom will undergo a global alteration. Only a major overhaul will help if it is decided to merge its parts together, or vice versa, to make two separate rooms from one room. The cost of a quality overhaul is quite high, as is its duration, and many works can only be done by trained installers.

In new houses or after a recent overhaul, it is not necessary to carry out it again. A more modest option can be considered even with limited funds.

Economical

Cheap cosmetic repairs to the toilet will not affect pipes, walls, or counters.

The following fall into this category:

• installation and replacement of mirrors;
• replacement of faulty valves;
• installation of stretch or suspended ceilings.

When a toilet is changed, this is also a budget type of repair (or part of it). But "easy, fast and cheap" does not mean less responsible. Every year, there are hundreds of cases of poor-quality cosmetic repairs in toilets, errors in which end with a bay of neighbors or serious domestic inconveniences. Therefore, to the choice of components, decorative elements, tools, hiring a team must be approached carefully.

It is unacceptable to save on any of these components, but a thorough study of the market will allow you not to overpay for quality.

Renovation

A beautiful and pleasant looking toilet is the cherished dream of many people. Renovation helps to bring it to life and maintain in the future. It is distinguished from the usual overhaul by the presence of a specially prepared room design project. Often even prepare a three-dimensional visualization using special software.

Almost always, during renovation, the infrastructure and the appearance of the finish are completely changed., realize creative delights and follow the latest fashion trends. Another feature is that it is advisable to make European-style repairs in the entire apartment at once, and not in one toilet in isolation.

Necessary materials and tools

It is unlikely that you will be able to repair the toilet properly without tools. You can dismantle the old accessories with a set of screwdrivers, but this is very laborious and time consuming. It would be much better to take a screwdriver and a set of bits for it. Plinths made of concrete are dismantled with a perforator, which also facilitates the removal of tiles and the preparation of holes. When working with a pipe and a toilet, the master must have a gas key ready.

It is impossible to install new pipes, both metal and plastic, without using a welding machine.

To prepare for the application of finishing materials will help:

• roulette;
• folding meter;
• construction level;
• plumb.

Primer, coating, putty, paint is applied with brushes and rollers. But for working with tile adhesive, it is advisable to take a notched trowel. A saw, hammer, chisel, chisel, file and other metalwork, carpentry tools are also needed for standard repairs, including in other rooms. Therefore, spending on their purchase is fully justified.

for walls

Tile is deservedly considered a universal solution for decorating toilet walls. But you can not take a tile made from ordinary silicates (which has a white wrong side). Despite being chemically neutral, big number microscopic pores enhances the absorption of liquid and the retention of unpleasant odors. Fighting them with household deodorants is very expensive, and it also has a bad effect on health.

Wallpaper is considered an alternative to tiles. In the toilet it is recommended to glue those types of them that can be cleaned and washed. With due creativity and diligence will be able to achieve no worse appearance than with the help of tiles. The problem is that even the best types of wallpaper do not last long enough. But the costs are much less, and therefore frequent replacement will not affect the wallet.

As in the previous case, be sure to prepare the surface for work.

For ceiling

The standard procedure involves the complete removal of the previous coating. But what to do next depends on the type of finish chosen. So, stretch and suspended ceilings are mounted on a simple cleaned base. If decorative plaster is used, the coatings are knocked down to a rough floor and the substrate is prepared as carefully as possible. Also take into account the features of lighting fixtures.

The specifics of the use of toilets and their "stuffing" imposes certain requirements on the materials that can be used in the decoration of ceilings.

First of all, these include:

• Condensation resistance.
• Tightness. When a breakthrough occurs from above, it is almost always this material that takes the first hit.
• Mechanical strength. It is not enough for the ceiling to be simply waterproof, it must also withstand the pressure of a mass of water.
• Easy access to communications hidden behind the ceiling trim.
• Elegant appearance, but without too much pretentiousness and pomposity.

Excessively bright coverage can create inappropriate associations. Absorption of height is unacceptable, on the contrary, the color is selected in such a way as to guarantee a visual expansion of space. Most in a simple way whitewashing is considered to satisfy most of the listed requirements. It is applied in about 60 minutes, but usually this time is less. But you have to take into account that whitewashed ceilings are unstable to moisture, and the only excuse is the ease of restoring the finish.

Paint is a good alternative., especially since it is much more diverse in appearance and texture. It is recommended to use waterproof solutions - oil, silicone, latex or acrylic. Part of the water-based mixtures can also be used, but here you already need to make a careful choice.

A fairly large part of consumers prefer various types of tiles that can not only create a pleasant appearance, but also compensate for minor height differences. At the same time, the toilet does not become lower, but you will need to carefully select the color of the material and the size of the individual blocks.

Suspended ceilings will also cover all the problems of the rough base, but will absorb at least 3 cm of height, which is why, with all the difficulties with gluing tiles, it is better suited for small toilets.

Much more opportunities when using slatted ceilings, which are immune to moisture and safe in fire terms. Means of illumination and wires are easy to remove inside the rails or panels, they will not spoil the appearance.

To make the ceiling look advantageous, like the whole room as a whole, you need to carefully select the fixtures. Not every light source is suitable for all ceilings. So, for obvious reasons, strongly heated structures are incompatible with suspended and stretched canvases. The more compact the lamp, the denser it is pressed against the plane of the upper tour, the more advantageous the design will be. An equally important requirement is a moisture-proof housing: in this case, we are talking about the fire and electrical safety of residents.

Spot elements give a beautiful diffused light, but it’s better to put them not on the ceiling, but as accents and additional illumination of individual elements. Copper wires are best suited for connecting all lighting fixtures. Aluminum conducts current worse, oxidizes more actively in case of contact with air, breaks faster and easier, and it is much more difficult to mount wires from it. Strobes must be covered with a moisture-resistant putty.

Incandescent lamps should be abandoned: they consume a lot of current, and at the same time heat the air more than illuminate the space.

Flooring

In the toilets of a private house or apartment, the design role of the floor is no less than that of the ceiling or walls. In the same way, when preparing for its decoration, everything must be thoroughly thought out and the subtleties taken into account. Tiles made of natural stone and tiles are widely used in the decoration of toilet floors.

Their advantages are undeniable:

• strength;
• minimal water absorption;
• abrasion resistance;
• the ability to choose flooring as part of a single collection (it will also be the material for wall decoration).

If a variety of colors is in the foreground, it is worth choosing a tile, and porcelain stoneware is the undisputed leader in hardness. All types of "stone" coatings easily tolerate the action of aggressive reagents, including household appliances. A serious minus of the stone is its coldness; underfloor heating corrects the problem, but it complicates the design, makes the work longer and more expensive. The tile, which is placed on the floor, must be of strength class 3 and above.

Among other varieties, materials with corundum coatings and layers that reduce slip are deservedly in the first place.

Wooden base impractical for toilet floor- with external aesthetics on store shelves or photographs, it will quickly swell and swell, may rot. Moreover, even thick boards are not without such shortcomings, unless they appear later. No paint and enamel will save, since they are applied only on the outside, and the rest of the planes will remain uncovered with protection. Therefore, the use of linoleum is more profitable than wood. Technologists have learned to give it a colossal external variety, which was difficult to imagine 10 years ago.

Water-resistant linoleum rolls fit well in narrow and shaped areas. The appearance of rot, mold fungi and microorganisms is almost impossible, it is very easy to clean the floor from dirt and moisture. But complete tightness of the coating cannot be achieved, so it will need to be raised from time to time, and the base should be dried and treated with disinfectants.

In terms of strength, there is no need to lay semi-commercial linoleum in the toilet. Enough of the simplest household, even the most subtle, so long as it does not slip.

Sequence of work

It makes no difference whether a major overhaul is to be carried out by a construction ace or a beginner in this field. The first step is always a high-quality design of future repairs. They thoroughly measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, since it depends on it which ideas can be realized, and which ones will remain fruitless fantasies.

Most often, especially in urban apartments of old houses, there is absolutely not enough space. In such a situation, you need to abandon the original moves and begin to deal with tightness.

Where to begin?

Before starting the design, you should decide on the choice of equipment to be installed. With an acute shortage of space, they are limited to the toilet. When the toilet room is relatively free, it turns out to put a washbasin, urinal or bidet in it. A minimum of 0.4 m is left between the middle of the toilet bowl and the wall, and when a sink is placed, this distance is reduced to 0.3 m. In addition, the complexity of installation will require the involvement of professionals and pay for their work.

Having dealt with the "stuffing" of the toilet, it's time to think about its tones. It is better to choose between calm tones, the slightest variegation is unacceptable. Even with such a limitation, there are quite a few quite attractive options, especially since no one forbids making local color accents. After choosing a color, you can find out the need for tools. The list of them varies depending on the planned materials.

The next step is to eliminate the old plumbing and finishing materials., all unnecessary components in general. There is no particular difficulty in this, but it will take a lot of time and effort. Toilets of new versions are removed by removing the corrugations, but older closets are attached to a cement base. It will need to be broken. Removing the tiles is difficult because even when the outer layer is worn, they are extremely stable.

Since the work, regardless of the choice of hand or electric tools, will create a lot of noise and dust, you need to prepare. The optimal period is weekday hours. At the same time, all furniture in the reach area is covered plastic wrap. Wallpaper is usually soaked and removed mechanically. Strong paint is not removed, with the exception of oil; for anyone paintwork material special washes are used. Whitewash is removed with a spatula after abundant saturation with water.

Main works

Continuing to carry out the overhaul of the toilet step by step, they are taken to create improved communications. In many homes, old risers are unreliable, then they need to be replaced with new ones made of PVC. In most cases, the entire segment is changed from floor to ceiling. Connections are supplied with adapters, and the modular design can be easily supplemented with parts of the desired format. Pipes inside the toilet room are most often wound into strobes; if the bidet (separate or built into the toilet) is not used, a replacement can usually be dispensed with.

The wiring is hidden in the strobes, and the sewer pipes are in a specially designated box. If you decide to repair the walls using drywall sheets, the perimeter of the draft walls is covered with a profile fastened to dowels with a diameter of 6 mm. When attaching the frame, the main profiles are used, stiffening ribs are also used, spaced in increments of 0.4-0.5 m. After that, it is required to fix the moisture-resistant GKL, previously cut into fragments of the desired diameter. Fixation is carried out using special screws.

When preparing the sheets, it is necessary to make an opening in them for the subsequent installation of an inspection door, then it will be possible to control the condition of the equipment and the numbers on the meter display. Then you need to do the flooring. Ceramic tiles are cut in narrow places, and therefore its costs are usually higher than the area estimates show. The base is well worked out with a deeply penetrating primer. The outer surface is leveled with a self-leveller.

Then they create a self-leveling floor, and the choice of color or transparent composition depends purely on personal preference. On a transparent surface, you need to lay an image that becomes three-dimensional after pouring. Accelerated leveling is provided using a spiked roller. When the mixture dries, it will be strong.

Since the vapors released during the solidification of self-leveling floors are harmful to health, it is advisable to work in a respirator.

When the floor is ready, it's time to work with the walls. Under the tile, they must be primed; in case of pronounced irregularities, cement putty is applied. Gypsum board boxes are not tiled except for double priming and grouting each joint. A rail or levels are mounted along the entire perimeter at the height of the first tile. This will allow you to finish the room as accurately and quickly as possible.

The masonry goes in rows until the desired height is reached; to put up crosses relies on the joints both vertically and horizontally. When the day has passed, the rail is removed and the lower tiles are laid. If they do not fit, you can trim the problematic elements. So, without unnecessary difficulties, decorating the walls with your own hands is no worse than with the help of a team of finishers. Grouting is done in a standard way.

Things are different when using plastic panels. A frame of metal or wooden profiles is formed along the walls. The gap from one post to another is a maximum of 50 cm. The frame must run at right angles to the course of the panels. It is not difficult to put the blocks themselves: you need to bring the first part into the starting profiles or corners; all structures are attached using self-tapping screws through the extreme ledges.

Then the corners will need to be closed with special elements: they are either fixed before the panels, or glued on the outside with liquid nails. If wallpaper is chosen, the entire surface is cleaned of dirt and dust, thoroughly primed. Then the walls are puttied using Vetonit for wet rooms. Apply it once or twice - it depends on how badly the walls are deformed. In especially difficult situations, they are impregnated with a primer even three times.

Surfaces that have dried after priming are leveled with a grater and sandpaper. You need to move them in a circle. If residual defects are found, they are additionally puttied and overwritten. After cleaning the walls from dust, they need to be primed again. Everything, on this preparation for pasting the wallpaper is completed.

Having overcome all the difficulties in decorating the walls, they take up the ceiling. If it is hinged, you need to draw lines along the perimeter with a level to expose the structure. The guide profiles are attached to the walls, for this purpose you will need holes for fast mounting dowels. The step between the main profiles is 0.4 m, the line of their passage serves to attach suspensions. Having prepared the frame, you need to attach the selected material to it (necessarily combined with the wall decoration in color).

The next step is the placement of plumbing and other equipment. Important: installations for hanging toilets are supposed to be done before wall cladding. In the case of traditional plumbing, the corrugation is attached to the sewer inlet pipes and connected to the toilet. Then it is put in the required position, since the flexible hose is easy to move as you like. The tank should not rest against the wall, even at a single point.

The marking of the toilet sole on the floor is made together with the drilling point. At this point, concrete drills are used, and they go through the tile with a special drill for ceramics. IN drilled holes put the dowels, then expose the toilet and press it to the base on the hex screws. For your information: rubber washers should be placed under the screws, they will allow you not to break thin plumbing. The caps of the fasteners are covered with decorative caps.

Only after all these works does it become possible to connect the water and seal the joint of the toilet sole with a composition on silicone base. If a sink is also installed in the toilet, the choice comes down to fixing it on brackets from the kit or on dowels screwed into the wall. Usually guided by the instructions instructions. Only after fixing it is possible to connect the water supply and the drain channel. But the overhaul of the toilet does not stop there.

What to finish?

Next, proceed to the installation of doors. The position of the box is verified as accurately as possible from all sides. When using a heavy canvas, the box is screwed with dowels. You should not be afraid of their poor appearance - you just need to place the fasteners in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe hinges and below the latch groove. For your information: experienced craftsmen check the level after each manipulation to avoid the slightest shift. When the installation of the canvas is completed, you need to apply mounting foam, filling the entire gap around the perimeter.

When removing the foam from the cylinder, they are moved in a zigzag manner, trying to keep the box in a certain position. You can not put an excess of foam, because it will inevitably expand and go beyond the contour. The foam is cut off from the outside after ½ days, while you need to be careful and leave everything inside. Excessively thin boxes are complemented by additional details. If there are grooves, cut the strips to the required size and snap them into place; simple boards are planted on foam or fastened with self-tapping screws.

No matter how carefully the doors themselves are mounted, if their choice was unsuccessful, problems will grow like a snowball. Fully or partially glass constructions look elegant and become a winning design element. Do not be afraid of peeping from the outside, because you can order a variant with a darkened or frosted glass. If there are small children, elderly or seriously ill people in the house, such doors to the bathroom will allow you to control the silhouette through the glass and come to the rescue in time. At the same time, glass doors are environmentally friendly and convenient, they dampen extraneous noise well. In the assortment of any manufacturer there are many interesting models.

In terms of hygiene and convenience, PVC doors are no worse than glass doors., moreover, they are usually lighter than wooden ones. This allows you to abandon powerful hinges and heavy boxes, from strengthening the walls. A special film, even with minimal care, will last for many years.

It is possible to mount wooden doors only if the bathroom is equipped with strong exhaust ventilation. If it is not there, then even the most moisture-resistant rocks will dampen and deteriorate in a short time.

Good Examples

You can figure out for a long time exactly how it is better to arrange a toilet in an apartment or house, consult with experts and acquaintances. But it is most correct to have before your eyes the most interesting samples and ideas to guide you.

Then it will turn out to transform an ordinary toilet into a truly unusual and original space.

• This is how you can make a fairly large toilet room with an area of ​​​​10-12 square meters. m. There is a sink at the door itself, and a toilet bowl is fixed in the center of the wall opposite from the entrance. Squares of rich red tiles seem to form a continuous strip connecting the floor and the wall stylistically. An exquisite dark door with a vertical window on the left side complements and completes the composition.
• The modern approach to the design of toilets may be different, but no less original. The familiar "white throne" is the only object of this color that was chosen by the designers. The walls and floor are decorated with natural stone different colors. Almost everywhere it is smooth and even, but on the left above the pedestal with cabinets, the wall is made with a pronounced relief. And in the part farthest from the entrance, the stone background is suddenly replaced by a chic green panel, reflected by an oval mirror suspended on another wall.

• And this composition clearly contains references to the plots computer games twenty years ago. Abstract figure in the form of raster cells yellow color on a perfectly black wall, as it were, hints at this. Looking a little lower, you can see a drawn gray wheel, and to the right of it - a flower and cologne, standing on a stand. The picture on the tank is cheerful and even kind of childish in spirit. Wooden door made of light brown boards, Brick wall, going at an angle, plus an underlined antique lighting solution, allow us to consider the design as quite original.
• Here, the whole design is created on the game of white and red colors. On the side walls they are present in their pure form, and the wall farthest from the entrance is made in Scottish motifs. The floor is painted the same way.

• Similar colors were chosen here as well, but you can immediately see how different designers worked on the project. It seems to be a small detail - a sparkling metal die, allows you to make a very powerful accent. A hanging wall-mounted sink timidly peeks out of a niche.
• It is not necessary to combine white and red tones, combinations with blue also look good. Squares on the floor and rectangles on the walls create quite an attractive look. The toilet and sink are placed in such a way as to save space as much as possible. One of the walls is decorated with a blue floral pattern on a calm white background. Guessing from the reflections numerous Spotlights provide a comfortable environment for people.

Each owner of his own home tries to create in it all the conditions for a comfortable stay. In fact, it's easy to do, you just need to show imagination, and your home will sparkle with new colors. Renovation is always a big financial expense and a lot of problems, so most people are reluctant to start it. At the same time, many nuances should be taken into account so that the interior design turns out not only beautiful, but also practical. This is especially true for the toilet and bathroom, since both of these rooms are associated with high humidity and temperature. This is where a lot of questions arise. What materials and plumbing equipment choose? In what style to make the room? How to save money without sacrificing quality? Let's look at all this in more detail and find out where to start repairing the toilet with your own hands. Especially this article will be useful to people who do not have any experience in construction and finishing works. After reading it to the end, you will learn how to quickly and easily transform your bathroom beyond recognition.

Where to begin?

If you do not want to order a turnkey toilet repair, but plan to handle everything on your own, then it is very important to have at least some idea of ​​where to start. Many people think that the first step is to purchase building materials and plumbing, however, as practice shows, they subsequently face many problems that entail unnecessary financial costs. To avoid most of the mistakes of beginners, it is recommended to pre-prepare the room for the upcoming renovation. This implies not just taking everything unnecessary out of the room, but the preparation of all work surfaces - walls, floor and ceiling for further work. This will be discussed in more detail below.

Room preparation

Let's dwell on this in more detail. So, where to start repairing the toilet and bathroom? First of all, you need to understand that in the vast majority of apartments, the restroom has a very small area. As a rule, it is equal to 1.2 x 0.85 meters. Such dimensions greatly limit the possibilities, so you need to immediately decide on an interior design project.

In this case, everything happens in the following sequence:

1. We disconnect the toilet bowl from communications, unscrew the fixing bolts and take it out.
2. We assess the condition of the pipes. If it is deplorable, then we also perform their dismantling.
3. Most often, the walls in the toilet are tiled, so we remove it, after which we clean the work surface with a puncher and a special nozzle.
4. If you want to do a quality repair, it is recommended to immediately start replacing the wiring. We remove the electrical cable from the strobe and cut it.

It is worth noting that in some apartments the toilet is combined with the bathroom, so they constantly have increased dampness, which creates ideal conditions for the reproduction of fungus and mold. To prevent this, you need to treat the walls with special antiseptic agents.

We have described in detail the preparatory stage, so now we can consider the further sequence of repairs in the toilet. Floor, walls, ceiling require an individual approach, so further we will dwell on each of them in more detail.

Laying communications

What does she represent? Where to start repairing the toilet of a new building, when reconstruction is not needed, but only bringing the room back to normal? In this case, you will not need to prepare anything in advance, since the work surface is already suitable for finishing.

The first step is to bring water and sewer drains, as well as electrical wiring, to the installation site of the toilet. Without this, the bathroom simply will not be able to function. If you live in a panel house, which are most often built today, then in the restroom there will already be risers for hot and cold water. To minimize physical and financial costs, it is here that it is best to lay a distribution node. To give the room a more aesthetic and attractive appearance, all pipes are hidden in a special box.

If you do not know where to start repairing the toilet, then just follow the following sequence:

1. The first step is to install the toilet and connect it to the drain riser. For this, a corrugated plastic pipe is usually used, laid at a slight angle.
2. Next, the riser is connected directly to sewer drain using the same pipe, which is connected at a slope of about two centimeters to running meter. Clamps are used for fixation.
3. A tee cuts into the riser responsible for supplying cold water, through which water is supplied to the drain tank. If you want a sink for washing hands in the bathroom, then immediately make separate outlets for hot and cold water. It is best to use concealed mounting so that they are not visible.
4. If the water for the bathroom will be heated using a water heater located in the toilet, then immediately make piping to connect it.
5. Electrical wiring should be laid exclusively in strobes. In this case, the cable is placed in a special corrugated box, which eliminates the possibility of mechanical damage and short circuit.
6. The risers are hidden in special boxes, the frame of which can be made of a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic solution, or a metal profile. Then it is sheathed at the final stage of repair with a finishing material, for example, clapboard.

That, in fact, is all in the toilet, which goes at the initial stage. Further, further work will be described in detail and tips will be given that will help you cope with everything much easier.

Room decoration

So, you already know how to start repairs in the toilet, bathroom, so now you can talk directly about the finish. It is important to understand that working with walls, floors and ceilings has certain features that must be taken into account. This will be discussed in more detail below.

Ceiling finish

Where should it start? Redecoration of the toilet room (photos of some interior design projects are simply breathtaking) is better to start from the ceiling, because this way you will not damage the wall decoration and you will not have to think about how to mask defects later. Some repair masters may not agree with this, however, as practice shows, this approach is more appropriate.

The sequence of repairs in the toilet when finishing the ceiling is as follows:

1. A straight line is drawn along the perimeter of the working surface at a distance of approximately 5-7 centimeters from the ceiling. The exact indentation is determined depending on what types of lighting fixtures you will use.
2. According to the marking on the walls, galvanized or wooden profile.
3. Metal guides are attached to the ceiling with the help of special suspensions and dowels.
4. When the frame is completed, electrical wiring is carried out to the location of the intended location of the fixtures.
5. Fixed on the profile ceiling plinth with special grooves designed for the installation of plastic panels.

When planning a bathroom and toilet renovation, it is recommended to decide on the materials in advance. Which one to use depends solely on your preferences and financial capabilities. The best option in terms of cost and practicality is lining. It is cut to the required size and simply inserted into the installed ceiling cornice. Holes for lighting devices are also cut into them, which are connected at the very end.

wall decoration

So where should you start? Many people do not want to order turnkey repairs, because very often the craftsmen do not pay due attention to the walls. It happens that the work is handed over, and later uneven work surfaces and other defects are found that greatly spoil general impression. But you don't need to hire anyone, because if you can handle the ceiling, then the walls will not create any problems for you.

As a finishing material, it is best to use tiles. First, he has excellent operational characteristics and durability, secondly, it is very easy and simple to take care of it, and thirdly, since the area of ​​​​latrines in many apartments is small, you will not need a large amount of material, and therefore, repairs will not require significant financial costs.

So, the materials are purchased, you can continue to repair the toilet. The sequence of work when finishing the walls is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Carefully inspect the work surface and check with a building level how smooth they are. If there are even slight curvatures, then you need to align them to increase the tightness of the tiles. The permissible error is 5 millimeters per square meter.
2. If alignment is necessary, then you must first remove any protrusions with a hammer drill or grind them. This is a mandatory step, because if during the operation of the bathroom the finishing materials begin to be plastered, then you will not deal with this problem.
3. Before gluing the tiles, the walls are treated with an antiseptic primer. It will not allow mold and fungi to multiply, so cleanliness and order will always reign in your toilet.
4. The frame of the box, in which the pipes will be hidden, is sheathed with drywall, which has increased resistance to moisture.
5. To improve the bonding quality, the tiles should be soaked in water approximately a few hours before working on them.
6. Glue is being prepared. To do this, simply dilute the dry mixture in water in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer on the label. It is very important to stir everything well so that it is homogeneous and without lumps.

So, the above instruction answers in detail the question of where to start repairing the toilet. When all the preparations are completed, you can begin facing.

It is performed according to the following scheme:

1. Marking is applied to the working surface under the level. It is important to bear in mind that the thicker the tile, the wider the seam needs to be.
2. The adhesive is evenly applied to the wall with a spatula. It is very important to distribute it so that it is the same thickness over the entire area. Do not try to cover a large area at once, as it dries quickly. Do everything slowly and little by little.
3. Based on the markings applied earlier, a tile is applied to the wall and pressed strongly. Excess adhesive should be removed immediately.
4. Between the tiles you need to install plastic spacers. This will keep the same thickness of the seams everywhere. Sticking is carried out in rows in the direction from the floor to the ceiling. If you want to give the room a more original appearance, then each next row should be applied with an offset of half the width. At the same time, it is recommended to check the accuracy of laying using the building level and, if necessary, adjust the position of the tile.

That, in fact, is all, now you know where to start repairing the toilet in the apartment, and also in what sequence all work is performed. After the wall cladding is completed, the room is closed and left for at least 12 hours for the glue to dry completely, and then the seams are rubbed with a special putty. It not only improves the attractiveness of the walls, but also prevents the penetration of water under the tiles, thus extending its life. At the very end, it remains only to thoroughly wash the walls, after which they will shine with their beauty.

Floor finish

So, the start of the repair of the toilet has already been made, but for its complete completion, the flooring still needs to be laid. Here, as in the case of other parts of the room, it is very important to assess its condition. As practice shows, very often waterproofing becomes unusable, so it needs to be replaced.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The base is completely cleaned of any debris and dust, after which it is treated with a deep penetration primer.
2. Next, a special polymer mastic is applied, best made on the basis of bitumen, which will act as a waterproofing. Thanks to this, the likelihood of flooding neighbors living on the floor below you will be almost completely eliminated. The layer thickness must be at least 150 millimeters.
3. After waterproofing, a concrete screed 50 mm thick is poured. It is best to use fast-hardening mixtures for this. Of course, they are more expensive than usual, but their quality is much higher, and you will also save a lot of time.
4. After drying the screed, as a rule, it takes 3-4 days, the working surface is primed.
5. For cladding, it is better to use floor tiles. It has greater strength and durability, so it will be much more difficult to damage it, and it is also not as slippery when water enters. If you decide on a wall tile, then be prepared to change it after only a few years after the repair.
6. The process of gluing tiles is the same as in the case of walls. First, an adhesive mixture is applied to the floor, after which the tiles are laid in rows. When it dries, grouting is performed. You can lay tiles either in rows or with an offset.

Here, in fact, the whole process of work. Now you have a detailed idea of ​​where to start repairing the toilet and how to bring it to the very end. Now you just have to equip the bathroom, and you can start using it.

Installation of plumbing

In this article, a step-by-step repair of the toilet was considered. If you strictly adhere to the instructions described in it, then you will certainly be able to do everything on high level. However, this is not the end, because the plumbing equipment still needs to be installed and connected, and this is also a very time-consuming process.

It is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. The toilet bowl is installed in the place allotted for it. At the same time, so that it does not fidget on the tile, it is recommended to put it on a special rubber lining.
2. We make notes for the holes for the fixing bolts and drill them.
3. We install plumbing and fasten it with anchors, after which we connect it to the drain using a corrugated pipe.
4. Next, we fasten the drain tank to the toilet. The kit includes all the necessary fasteners, so you do not have to buy anything extra.
5. We connect the equipment to the water supply system.
6. If you planned to install a sink in the restroom and brought hot and cold water for this purpose in advance, then there should not be any special problems with this. The sink is simply mounted on the wall and fixed with anchor bolts. In this case, it is recommended to use an additional bracket, which will give the sink more stability.
7. We connect it to the sewer drain through a siphon and install taps for hot and cold water.

When all the installation of plumbing equipment is completed, it is recommended to check the quality of all connections so that there are no leaks anywhere. After that, you can begin to build fixtures into the ceiling and start using the bathroom. Here, in fact, is the whole turnkey repair, which you can handle on your own without the involvement of professional builders.

Issue price

If you have read up to this point, then you are no longer worried about starting to repair the toilet. However, it remains to tell in detail about how much it will cost to decorate the interior of the room in the restroom. It should be noted right away that doing everything with your own hands, you save a decent amount of money, but you still have to spend money, because building and finishing materials are quite expensive these days.

To get accurate figures, it is best to personally go to the store and make all the calculations yourself, since prices can vary greatly depending on the region. In addition, 30 percent should be added to the resulting estimates, which will be used to cover rejection and possible additional costs. By the way, if you have been planning to update the bathroom for a long time, but did not know where to start repairing the toilet, then it is better to immediately decide how much money it will take and whether you can afford it.

The table below will make this task a little easier for you.

Material	Quantity	Price in rubles
Waterproofing mastic
Adhesive for tiles
Antiseptic primer
	Square meter
floor tiles	Square meter
Screed mix
Drywall
Fittings for drywall	Set
wooden beam
	Square meter
Corrugated pipe
Metal-plastic pipe
Crimp fittings
Mixer universal

In addition to all of the above, you will also need to purchase new plumbing equipment. It is very difficult to orient with prices for it, since everything here depends on the individual preferences of each person. You can purchase both a budget option and luxury sanitary ware from world famous brands. When choosing a toilet bowl and a sink, you should build on your real financial capabilities. If you used inexpensive tiles for facing the room, then there is simply no point in a European toilet bowl. It is better to do everything in unison, so that everything in the interior harmonizes well with each other.

Conclusion

Here, in fact, our article, devoted to the answer to the question of how they begin to make repairs in the toilet, has come to an end. All the information given in it is backed up by practical experience, so if you strictly follow all the tips and recommendations, you will be able to cope with everything, and the quality of the repair will be in no way inferior to the similar one performed by qualified specialists.

As for the style in which to make the restroom, it all depends on your imagination. There are quite a few unique ideas, the implementation of which will not require large financial costs. For example, great option can become a modern style, the hallmark of which is minimalism. Despite his inherent asceticism, he looks very attractive and at ease.

Do not be afraid to experiment with the design of your own apartment. After all, only you know all your preferences, with which you can create all the necessary conditions for the most comfortable stay. Due to the fact that today the market is rich in various building materials, you can equip your home in a modern and stylish way.

Sooner or later, any person one way or another is faced with the repair of the toilet. You can entrust this work to professionals, or you can save money and do everything yourself. In this article, we will analyze in detail what work is to be done and in what sequence it is better to carry it out.

Any enterprise begins with a comparison of desires and opportunities. If finances allow, then the boundaries of desires are very conditional. We will talk about a decent repair of the toilet with our own hands with a minimum budget. This is the foundation for the rest of the story.

Planning the process itself has a clear sequence:

1. Complete cleaning of the premises;
2. Replacement of plumbing communications and electrical wiring;
3. Preparation of surfaces for finishing work;
4. Finish:
5. Paul;
6. Stan;
7. Ceiling.
8. Plumbing installation.

The zero point should be set to "Design development and purchase of materials." But this can create confusion. Therefore, describing each stage, we will justify the advantage of certain materials. The cost of all finishing elements, for objectivity, we took from YandexMarket.

Room cleaning

Complete renovation, declares the absolute cleaning of the room. Nothing should remain in it, except for the pipes of the common riser.

The sequence must also be observed. First, the tiles are chipped off the walls. Depending on the quality of the connection, this can be done with a puncher in the “chiselling” mode or with a simple ax, using it as a spatula. They pass along the bare walls with a drill, with a brush nozzle.

Explanation: it is quite possible to lay a new tile on an old covering. But in this case, it will take 3-5 cm from the height of the room.

Only after that whitewash is washed off the ceiling. At the same time, they wash off the dust from the walls and the floor.

Plumbing is dismantled at the very last turn. To do this, shut off the water supply to, unscrew the mount and remove the toilet drain outlet from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is very old, then it will have to be broken out, since the drain was sealed with cement mortar. The entrance to the sewer pipe is cleaned of pieces of sanitary ware and cement.

On the hole, until the end of work, put on plastic bag and tied with rope.

Explanation: Dismantling the toilet allows you to create a solid floor covering, without painstaking trimming and fitting tiles. In addition, subsequently the toilet can be easily replaced.

Replacement of communications and wiring

Self-replacement of a water riser is never carried out in practice. The reason is the need to shut off the water supply in the entire riser, and this is the prerogative of plumbers from the service organization. But the more important factor is time and guarantees.

Replacing the riser pipes with your own hands without professional skills will require leaving residents without water for the whole day. It is unlikely that your neighbors will tolerate this. Specialists will cope with this task much faster.

The quality of the work carried out has a deeper connotation. If the replacement of the riser is carried out by specialists from the Housing Office, according to an official application, then in the event of leaks or any emergency, the responsibility will fall on the installers. Otherwise, you will have to pay for the repair of flooded apartments.

But you have the right to choose the material for the riser within your apartment. The most affordable and high-quality material is polypropylene pipes reinforced with fiberglass. They are suitable for both hot and cold water.

The layout of the apartment can be done independently. The best material for this purpose is corrugated stainless steel. It is more expensive than or polypropylene pipes, but you get:

• Savings on the corners;
• Aesthetic appearance;
• Virtually unlimited service life;
• Extremely easy installation.

The cost of 1 meter of corrugated stainless steel pipe ø 16 mm is 92 rubles. An important condition for long-term service is the use of brass fittings.

Wiring will require upgrading if you want to install several lights in a miniature toilet. And this happens very rarely.

Very good decision there will be an installation of a tubular energy-saving lamp above the entrance, parallel to the doorway. In this situation, the wiring can not be touched.

Preparation of surfaces for finishing

As a result of this paragraph, all surfaces should be smooth and even. The easiest thing to do with the floor. For leveling, you will need to use a quick-drying self-leveling screed. For 1m 2, with a thickness of 1 cm, 13-14 kg of dry mix will be required. For a toilet, 1 bag is enough, weighing 25 kg and priced at 400 rubles.

The floors are primed first. We recommend that you immediately prime the walls and ceiling. The mixture is diluted according to the instructions on the package and poured. In order not to make a layer too thick, disperse it a little with a spatula. The complete curing process takes 24 hours.

Aligning the walls in the toilet is a conditional task. The fact is that in such a small area, littered walls are extremely rare. Therefore, if the walls of the toilet are concrete, then a primer is enough, and if they are plastered brick, then putty will be required.

For putty you need:

• Working spatula 30 cm long;
• Auxiliary spatula 5 cm long;
• Putty mixture 20 kg (Weber: Vetonit 310 r);
• Drill with nozzle and container.

Setting time for putty cement base≈ 90-120 min. Dilute 2-3 kg of dry mixture, following the instructions on the package. Then, using a short spatula, apply a small amount of mortar to the long spatula. Applying the working tool at an angle of 20-30˚, spread the mixture along the wall from the bottom up. Sequentially apply new portions of the mixture.

By adjusting the angle between the wall and the spatula, you can get different effects. At an acute angle, gaps and cavities are filled, at an angle close to a right angle, the applied composition is leveled.

Excess material, spreading to the edges of the tool, is collected with a short spatula, and again applied to a long spatula.

Do not try to achieve a perfectly smooth surface in one pass. Having processed all the walls and after waiting 3-4 hours, you can again walk through problem areas.

Take Special attention corners. They are unacceptable sagging and rounding. Geometric accuracy should not be achieved in all corners, they will be covered with finishing materials, but the excess in them should be removed.

After a day, the walls can be treated with sandpaper to get a high-quality coating for further work.

The final chord of this stage is the primer of the prepared walls and floor.

There is almost always a slab on the ceiling, so no preparation is required other than priming.

Finishing work

floors

The specifics of the room limits the choice of flooring. Of all the options, only self-leveling floors and tile.

Self-leveling floors look attractive, but they have two huge drawbacks:

• High price;
• A very complex process.

If you use them, it is better in a place where they are visible. In the toilet, they will be hidden. So, there is only one option - tiles.

Given that the toilet has been dismantled and the base has been prepared, do-it-yourself tiling in the toilet is extremely easy process. The choice of tiles is a very sensitive issue. We do not have the right to advise on color and pattern, but we will help you figure out the dimensions.

The dimensions of a standard toilet in an apartment are 0.8 by 1.2 m. For ease of use, try to find a tile that fits into these dimensions without waste, for example 40 x 30 or 40 x 40. In this case, you will need to glue only 8 or 6 elements . Please note that the smaller the number of elements in the mosaic, the easier it is to work. And for the price, this choice will be quite acceptable. For example, from the manufacturer CERROL, in the Nero (Black) series, 1 m 2 of a 40x40 tile will cost 1304 rubles. There is enough for the toilet and there will be practically no waste left.

There is another option for lightly finishing the floor in the toilet - mosaic tiles. These are ceramic tiles measuring 2 x 2 cm, glued to the substrate. By choosing the size of the sheet, you can cover the entire area in 2-3 steps. But this option, subsequently, will not prove itself in the best way.

The fact is that small items flooring, visually reduce the dimensions of the toilet.

Eunice 2000 tile adhesive in a 5-kilogram package will help you cope with the task perfectly. Its price is 130 rubles. Consumption ≈ 4-5 kg/m2.

You will also need:

• notched trowel;
• Crosses;
• Laser level;
• Square.

The thickness of the crosses is not more than 1-2 mm. IN small room, large seams will not look aesthetically pleasing.

The method of laying tiles is straight. The toilet is too small a room to lay out a beautiful pattern in it.

Work progress:

Dilute the adhesive following the directions on the package. If you, following our advice, have chosen a large tile, then knead the entire package. While the mixture is swelling (4-5 minutes), set the laser level so that the horizontal beam is projected at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor. TIP: it is most convenient to put it on horizontal pipe sewerage. Everyone has laser levels the head is self-leveling, so even if there is a slight tilt, the beam will still show the true horizon.

The floors are swept. Apply the finished adhesive to the tiles with a notched trowel. Please note: the adhesive must be smeared over the entire surface. This will not only increase the adhesion area, but will also allow you to drill holes for attaching the toilet in the future without fear of splitting the tile.. The thickness of the adhesive must not exceed the thickness of the tile! Put the tile in place. Sticking is better to start from the wall opposite to the entrance. Move the glued element with an amplitude of 2-3 mm.

Sequentially applying a square to each corner of the tile, compare the level at which the laser beam is projected. If necessary, trim the tiles.

Similarly, glue the second tile, align it and then insert the crosses. There should be 2 crosses on each side of the tile.

With proper planning, cutting the tiles will only be necessary once to bypass the riser pipes. To do this, it is best to use a grinder with cutting disc. ATTENTION: the disc must be specialized, without radial cuts.

Use a tape measure to measure the distance you need to cut. Most likely, it will be the corner sector. Set aside the obtained dimensions on the front surface of the tile.

Tip: stick masking tape on the tile, it is more convenient to mark it on it.

Lay tiles on flat surface and fix. When working with a grinder, be sure to use glasses!

It is necessary to cut through, so under the tile there should be soft material(wooden block or two pieces of plasterboard).

The cut edge can be processed with sandpaper.

If gaps of 1-2 cm remain, then evenly distribute them in such a way that they fall on the gap between the tile and the wall. Subsequently, they will be closed with wall finishing materials.

According to the outlined scheme, all floor tiles are glued. After a day, you can walk on it and at this time they begin to grout the seams. Optimal material to fill tile gaps - silicone sealant. It is easy to work with, after drying it gives an elastic seam with impeccable hygienic characteristics.

To work, you only need white silicone sealant in a tube and a lint-free cloth.

Cut off the spout of the tube so that the thickness of the exiting silicone is minimal. Insert the container of caulk into the gun and apply even pressure along one of the seams. Excess silicone protruding outwards is removed with a slightly damp cloth. The slots must be filled flush.

The silicone should dry out within 3-5 hours. Then cardboard should be laid on the floor, and you can start decorating the walls.

Walls

Wall decoration possible with two materials: ceramic tiles or wall panels. We do not consider painting and whitewashing in principle, while other materials have low moisture resistance.

Tile is a traditional option for the toilet. Looks presentable, lasts a very long time. But there are points on which it is inferior to plastic panels. In particular, :

• Cheaper;
• Glued easier, faster, do not require professional skills;
• Models with 3D effect look great;
• You can easily change and "refresh" the appearance;

There is another nuance that can affect your choice. In the toilet, it will be necessary to close the water riser. If you use wall panels, then it will be possible without much difficulty and pre-training close them this unsightly need.

In addition, you can improve the appearance by choosing wall panels 40 cm wide, just the size of the tiles. All decoration will take on the appearance of a finished composition.

To fix the wall panels, "Liquid nails" are needed. We recommend using Moment Installation.

For work you will need:

• Wall ;
• Liquid nails with a gun;
• Hacksaw for metal;
• Construction knife;
• Roulette and marker.

Gluing the panels starts from the place where they fit entirely, without cutting in width. Measure the height and set aside required size on the panel. Sawing off excess with a hacksaw, make sure that the lamella does not bend and break at the very end of the cut.

The glue is applied in continuous strips, along the entire length, the diameter of the outgoing roller is 4-5 mm. There should be a distance of 5-7 cm between each strip of adhesive. Immediately place the panel in place, and move it slightly from side to side to spread the adhesive. But immediately remove this panel, and give an exposure of 3-4 minutes. This is required in order to adhesive composition interacted with oxygen in the air.

After exposure, the panel is glued. To control the vertical position of each plank, use a plumb line. Press the lamella firmly for 30-40 seconds and move a little

All panels are fixed in the same way. But to bypass the water riser, proceed as follows.

Explanation: Between the front and back of each plank, there are stiffening ribs. If you cut the back side of the panel along the entire length along these edges, then it can be bent and pasted over rounded areas.

In the place where the riser is located, on reverse side panels cut off the back sheet along with stiffeners. Additionally, the lower part is cut where the sewer pipe drain exits. To make a neat outlet for water pipes, they are unscrewed from the stopcock on the riser. And on the panel, a hole is made according to the size of the outlet itself. Such an operation can only be carried out if you work with wide panels!

A horizontally lying sewer pipe can be pasted over with scraps of wall panels, leaving a hole for connecting a toilet bowl.

This option for finishing the walls in the toilet will avoid the use of end strips. After all, the edges near the entrance will be closed with a door cashier.

Instead of a skirting board, glue a flashing. In appearance, it is the same, only narrow.

Ceiling

To decorate the ceiling in the toilet, when the walls and floor are already decorated, you should proceed as final chord, which will complete the whole composition. If there are large dark tiles on the floor and dark panels on the walls, then the ceiling should be white and gold.

There are two options, this is a rack ceiling or PVC ceiling panels. In appearance of the finished coating, they will practically not differ. But here the rack ceiling will “steal” at least 7 cm from a height, due to the fastening system. And its installation will take an order of magnitude more time.

With PVC ceiling panels, the whole process will take 40-50 minutes.

Given that they will look the same, a sane person will choose PVC ceiling panels.

Using the example of two-section strips with gold, produced by Olimpia, we will describe the installation process. The width of the slats is 24 cm, the length is 3 m. The price of one plank is 180 rubles. 2 panels are required for the ceiling in the toilet.

They are glued to the same "Installation Moment". The slats are adjusted in length and glued, starting from the entrance, according to the technology described above.

Around the box covering the riser, the panels are trimmed with a construction knife.

Plumbing installation

Installation of plumbing consists of two stages:

1. Installation of a toilet bowl with a tank;
2. Connection to the system.

The option with a hanging toilet bowl is not even accepted for consideration. Its diminutiveness is just a marketing ploy to increase sales and create another group of products. After all, the mounting system and the cistern of the hanging toilet will require a minimum of 20 cm from the back. In other words, the dimensions of the toilet will in fact become 0.8 x 1 m.

Therefore, we will install a conventional toilet. To fix it, you will need to drill 2 or 4 holes in the floor. In this case, you first need to drill the tile. This can be done with a diamond-coated tubular drill by switching the puncher to the “drilling” mode.

Having passed the tile, the perforator is switched to the "chiselling" mode, and a drill is placed.

Dowels are hammered into the holes with a mallet and the toilet bowl is fixed through plastic washers.

TIP: Apply silicone sealant to the base of the toilet. After pressing to the floor, excess silicone will squeeze out, they must be removed immediately. But on the other hand, such sealing will not allow water to penetrate under the toilet bowl itself, during wet cleaning.

For connection drain hole toilet bowl with an entrance to the sewer pipe, use a corrugated adapter.

Hoses for supplying water to the tank, in modern models, have a sealing rubber gasket and do not need winding. Additionally, plastic lugs are integrated into the hose heads, they allow you to do without an adjustable wrench.



When it comes time to make repairs in the toilet, in most cases it is necessary to replace not only the design of the room and sanitary ware, but also to make a complete or partial replacement of water and sewer pipes. The article will discuss how to make a major overhaul of the toilet with your own hands.

Tools needed to repair a toilet

For preparatory work and the repair itself, you will need:

• for dismantling accessories in the toilet or assembling the frame for sheathing, you will need screwdriver, preferably accompanied by bit set;
• if necessary, delete old tiles need to prepare perforator. In the Repair process, it will also be required to drill holes in concrete or brick walls;
• gas key. It is useful for unscrewing and securing the screw connections of the toilet bowl, sink or pipes;

• for applying a waterproofing layer or primer, you will need brush or roller;
• notched and regular spatula for applying tile adhesive;
• welding device and special scissors for plastic pipes;
• roulette;
• building level. It is good if there is a small one, up to 60 cm long and long. This will make the job easier;
• during work, tools such as a chisel, hammer, hacksaw, etc. may also be required.

Dismantling of old plumbing

• If the repair of the toilet with your own hands is planned to be capital, then work begins with the removal of old plumbing (toilet, sink and bathroom, if the bathroom is combined).

• Regardless of whether work is being done in the apartment high-rise building or in a private house, first of all, it is necessary to completely block the cold and hot water. After that, the sink and toilet are cleaned. It is advisable to remove the second one last and install it back at the end of the working day so that you can use it.
• After making sure that water does not flow through the pipes (it is enough to open all the taps), all the water is drained from the drain tank. If this is not done, it will leak onto the floor.
• Most often, sinks in the toilet are mounted on brackets that are attached to the wall. But sometimes they are made with decorative pedestals covering pipes and drains. In this case, you must first dismantle it by unscrewing the fasteners near the floor. Then a basin is placed under the sink and the siphon is unscrewed, as a rule, a certain amount of water is poured out of it. The resulting hole in the sewer pipe is recommended to be tightly plugged with a rag. This will protect against the appearance of an unpleasant smell in the room.
• Using a gas wrench, the water supply hoses are unscrewed, through which water flows to the sink. And only now you can remove the sink itself with a mixer.
• Dismantling the toilet begins with disconnecting it from the hose that supplies water to the tank. Then, depending on the installation, it is unscrewed from the base or removed from the brackets.
• Remove the pipe that leads directly to the sewer drain. Even if the toilet is re-installed, it is better to throw out this element immediately and purchase a new one.
• The toilet is unscrewed from the floor. If it was planted only on self-tapping screws and sealant, then it is enough to shake it slightly, after which it will easily separate from the floor and you can remove it. Often, in old houses, toilets were mounted on concrete mortar, here you can’t do without buying a new one, since you won’t be able to carefully remove it.

Preparing the walls and floor in the toilet for renovation

A number of modern finishing materials intended for the renovation of the toilet and bathroom involve the use of crates, and therefore, at first glance, there is no need to remove old coatings. But during the service they could absorb unpleasant odors and mold will appear in the cracks. If the cladding is planned with a material that is attached with glue, then high-quality preparation of the base is simply necessary.

• Ceramic tiles It is convenient to remove with a perforator with a special nozzle. Or knock down with a hammer and a chisel, but this is a very long process.

• painted walls preheat with a blow dryer until the paint begins to bubble, after which it is scraped off with a spatula. Or, without heating, they clean it with a grinder with an iron brush.
• For removal plasters it must be well wetted with water from a spray bottle. When it gets wet enough, it is scraped off with a spatula.
• Wallpaper removed in the same way as plaster. But you can wet them not just with water, but special composition, which is sold at any hardware store. After it is absorbed, the old wallpaper easily moves away from the wall.

Having finished with the walls, proceed to cleaning the floor.

• Floor tiles removed in the same way as from the walls, using a perforator or chisel. Then the surface is cleaned with a grinder from small pieces, achieving absolute smoothness.
• If the concrete floor is very old and crumbled, then it is advisable to remove upper layer and refill.
• To eliminate small irregularities, there is no need to make a full-fledged concrete screed, it is enough to make a thin layer of self-leveling floor.

At the end of dismantling, all dust is cleaned with a construction vacuum cleaner.

Primer and waterproofing in the toilet

• For areas such as a toilet or bathroom, it is recommended to use a deep penetration antiseptic primer. It will not only improve the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the surface, but also protect the walls from the formation of mold and mildew.
• Apply it in 2 layers, with the complete drying of the previous one.
• Even if the toilet is not combined with the bathroom, it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing of the floor in it. This is due to the fact that sewer and water pipes pass through the premises, and in case of an emergency, flooding cannot be avoided.

• For the floor in the toilet, it is most convenient to use liquid waterproofing, which is applied with a brush. It also needs to be done in 2-3 layers with a 10-15 cm approach to the walls. The joints of the floor and walls are the most vulnerable, in these places it is advisable to lay a special tape on the waterproofing composition that has not yet hardened.
• When the waterproofing of the floor is finished and completely dry, they begin to change the pipes.

Replacing pipes when repairing a toilet

For changing metal pipes plastic and metal-plastic counterparts have long come. Therefore, if old pipes are still installed in the house, they must be replaced at the repair stage. So that in the event of an accident you do not have to urgently dismantle a new cladding to repair or replace the plumbing.

• In order to completely replace them, all pipes should be dismantled up to the place where the wiring for a particular apartment was made. It is not always easy to do it yourself, it is better to call a plumber.
• In the future, the work will not be difficult, you just need to mount new pipes in place of the old pipes in a similar way. It is more difficult if it is planned to introduce new devices, such as boilers or stationary cleaning modules.
• Plastic pipes are easily cut with special scissors. For their fastening to each other, fittings are used, the inner diameter of which is equal to the inner diameter of the pipes. First, the pipe is cut to the desired size, after which one end is inserted into a special soldering iron and a fitting is immediately strung on the other end of this soldering iron. He melts them from the inside, after which they must be very quickly pulled together and connected to each other.

• After the pipes are routed, their fittings remain open; to prevent construction dirt from entering them, plugs are temporarily placed on all outlets.
• Modern pipes are gray or white color(the second option is almost twice as expensive). They look quite aesthetically pleasing, but still, it is recommended to make a decorative box for them, which can later serve as a convenient stand.

Installation of a pipe box in the toilet

• The box is a frame covered with moisture-resistant plasterboard.
• For the frame, wooden slats 2 cm thick or a metal profile are suitable. They are cut to size and immediately attached to the floor and walls. Even small items you need to check the level.
• For plumbing (for sink or washing machine) such a box is placed at the bottom of the wall. For sewers, they make a vertical one in the corner of the room or right behind the toilet.

Repair of small toilets photo

• Each box must have a special window, which in the event of an accident will provide access to important components of the system. It is convenient when, instead of sheathing with drywall and further tiling it with tiles, it is sewn right along the frame plastic panels. In this case, it can be quickly and easily completely disassembled.
• Moisture-resistant drywall or plywood is suitable for sheathing the frame of the box. They are fixed with screws. When cutting, the edges must be even, so that as a result, the correct form of corner joints is formed.
• If it will be tiled, then it is enough just to process the finished box with a primer. If it is planned to apply plaster, paint or wallpaper, then it is necessary to putty the entire surface, while reinforcing each joint of the material with a sickle.

Facing materials for finishing the toilet

Despite the fact that the humidity in the toilet is much lower than in the bathroom or in the combined bathroom, it is still customary to choose moisture-resistant finishing materials for its decoration. This is mainly due to the fact that the walls absorb unpleasant odors over time and it should be possible to wash them periodically. This is especially true for small toilets, since in modern private houses these rooms have large area and are often complemented by a window. The most popular types of finishing materials for repairing a toilet in a typical Khrushchev:

• PVC panels;
• washable paint;
• ceramic tile;
• washable wallpaper.

Plastic (PVC) panels

Plastic toilet panels are an economical and quick option for finishing a toilet. Until recently, their main disadvantage was their low aesthetic appeal, but today the choice of such materials is very wide. modern panels not only imitate the pattern of materials, but also repeat the relief and structure. High-quality printing of the applied pattern allows you to achieve truly beautiful interiors.

Advantages:

• panels are produced in lengths from 2.5 to 3 m. This is enough to pick up right size for the height of the ceiling in the toilet;
• versatility lies in the possibility of their fastening, both on the walls and on the ceiling. But in the latter case, more narrow models, often having mirror inserts;
• they are easy to install with a minimum set of tools. Do not require long-term surface preparation and rough work. After fastening, there is practically no debris left in the toilet;
• the presence of the crate allows you to hide all the wiring and make additional sound insulation or insulation. What is especially important when repairing a combined bathroom in which a washing machine is located.

Stages of installation of plastic panels on the walls

• First of all, measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls of the toilet, minus the doorway. Also take into account right amount material for sheathing boxes, if any.
• In addition to the panels themselves, you will need to purchase additional elements (connecting profiles, corners, skirting boards, etc.).
• On prepared walls, a crate is made of horizontally arranged rails or a metal profile. The more often they are placed, the more rigid the facing structure will turn out. At the same stage, if necessary, mortgages are made of board or metal in those places where wall cabinets, mirrors, etc. will be attached.
• Often, apartments in old houses sin with uneven walls and ceilings, so it is recommended to measure the length of each panel. The excess is cut off with a construction knife or grinder. The first panel is attached starting from the corner. Fix it on small self-tapping screws with a press washer so that the panel is attached firmly, but it does not warp due to too deep twisting.
• The next panel is simply inserted into the one already attached. Thanks to the groove / spike fastening, it turns out to achieve a seamless effect, of course, if the pattern allows it.

• At the very end of the work, the corners are closed with special plastic extensions, and the junctions of the walls with the floor and ceiling with skirting boards.

Repair of the ceiling in the toilet with plastic panels

• To attach PVC panels to the ceiling, you will need to create a fundamentally different frame than for walls. It is necessary to create a suspended structure.
• Metal perforated suspensions along the ceiling are attached to the ceiling with a step of 50 cm. To them, in turn, are attached light bars measuring 2x2 cm.
• Or, along the perimeter of the toilet, a profile is screwed with an indent from the ceiling of 3-5 cm and longitudinal guides are already attached to it.
• All communications are located in the resulting subceiling space, they make wiring for future lighting and ventilation.
• The installation of the panels themselves is no different, they also begin to be fixed from one of the edges, inserting each subsequent one using the provided connection.
• When they reach the place where they will be located lighting fixture, the hole for the wire is carefully cut out sharp knife. In diameter, it should be slightly smaller than the decorative overlay of the lamp.

Ceramic tile

• The most common type of finishing material in the toilet. noble designs and excellent performance, made ceramic tiles indispensable in the decoration of rooms with expected high humidity.
• You can buy it in different price categories and different sizes. Depending on the size of the toilet room, either large-format tiles or mosaics are chosen. The combination will also look good. different sizes, textures and colors.
• The disadvantages include only the difficulty of doing the work yourself, if there is no experience and a large amount of dirt during repairs.

Toilet repair technology ceramic tiles

• Since the tile is attached directly to the walls, channels are first ditched for all communications. Having laid the wires in them, they cover them with putty on top.
• Next comes a layer of primer with antifungal additives. It dries quickly, but it is better to apply at least 2 layers.
• If ceramic tiles are attached to a concrete base, then you can immediately begin to apply the adhesive. If drywall acts as a base, then adhesion with it should be improved using a special mixture - concrete contact. This is a thick primer, which contains coarse sand. As a result, after drying, a rough surface is formed. It is applied in 1 layer.
• For the first row of tiles, you need to screw the starting metal profile around the perimeter of the entire room. Be sure to carefully verify it with a building or laser level.

• Tile adhesive is sold in dry form, you need to stir it in small portions (so that you have time to use up the entire batch within half an hour). To do this, glue is poured into a container with water and continuously mixed with a drill or a screwdriver with a special nozzle. When the desired consistency is reached, it is left to reach literally for 5-10 minutes.
• Ready glue is evenly distributed on small plot notched trowel, starting from the bottom, from the mortgage, and up. The first tile is fixed in the corner, immediately put the next one, measuring the evenness of the seam with a cross or a match. Crosses should be installed perpendicular to the wall, and not buried in adhesive solution. Thus, the entire area is filled. Side tiles must be measured in advance and cut off the excess with a tile cutter. It is quite difficult to work with a manual unit, very often there are chips or uneven edges. Therefore, the supply of finishing material should be sufficient to compensate for such a marriage.
• Corner joints are unlikely to be perfect if there is no experience with ceramic tiles. But they can be closed with special decorative corners.

• Passing the entire wall from the bottom up at a time is not recommended, due to the large weight of each tile. Therefore, having made 3-4 rows (depending on its size), it must be left for a day so that it dries out and grabs the wall.
• Having finished laying the tiles, wait a couple of days for it to fully strengthen. Then all the crosses are removed, and the seams are filled cement grout. It also dries very quickly, so it needs to be diluted little by little. You will need a rubber spatula to apply. To make the seams beautiful, after drying they are leveled with a slightly damp sponge. This work is completed.
• Tiles are laid out on the floor in a similar way, with the only difference being that the entire amount of work can be done at once. For grout, it is better to choose a mixture of dark or gray, as white or light seams quickly get dirty underfoot.

Toilet renovation wallpaper

More recently, wallpaper was glued in toilets as a very cheap option for finishing. They quickly absorbed unpleasant odors, and did not look very nice. But modern materials have high technical specifications, which allow you to use a range of special wallpapers to decorate the toilet.

• If there is high humidity in the bathroom or poor-quality ventilation is installed, then it is better to refuse the usual paper and vinyl wallpapers. It is not recommended to use and natural materials, based on bamboo or reed.
• But glass wallpapers, washable vinyl or non-woven models, as well as wallpapers with a durable waterproof coating made of polymer or synthetic materials are suitable. One of the modern types is stone wallpaper, they are made of real stone, but so thin that they can be easily rolled up and glued to the walls. At the same time, while maintaining all its strength and moisture-resistant qualities.

• All of these types are suitable for washing with a damp sponge using non-alkaline detergents (soap or dishwashing liquid). Since over time, house fungus forms on the walls in the toilet, which is a plaque that resembles dust, but cannot be washed off with a dry cloth. Or the usual blue mold.
• Another type of wallpaper suitable for the toilet is called liquid.. On sale they are only in dry form, and before use must be mixed with water in the right proportions. They have a rather voluminous structure and look a bit like decorative plaster. But, despite this, they will not close the flaws and irregularities of the walls. Therefore, they also need to prepare the base carefully. As for other wallpapers. If repairs are needed, this is quite easy to do. Just enough to soak desired area water and either clean and apply a new layer of the mixture, or simply smooth the existing one.

Finishing the toilet - a room for a specific purpose, besides a miniature one - requires maximum practicality, while even the slightest inconsistency with the chosen stylistic direction will be striking here.

Properly selected and laid tiles in the toilet are probably the most competent and therefore popular solution. Consider how to choose the right tile for the toilet and how to lay it with high quality.

Criteria for choosing tiles for the toilet

The specifics of this room allows you to use it and floor, and. Before laying tiles in the toilet, you need to figure out what features the material has in order to understand which type of tile is suitable for a particular case.

Design features of tiles

It is necessary to select a tile, based on the following design features material:

• Floor and wall tiles differ in thickness - floor, of course, thicker. In addition, one type of tile is also distinguished from another by the presence of a corresponding sign on the reverse side: for a wall - a hand, for a floor foot.
• due to the specifics of the location, it is more durable, hygroscopic and wear-resistant.
• Tiles of PEI1 and PEI2 classes are the best choice for toilet flooring, as they are designed for laying in rooms where walking without shoes or in soft indoor shoes is expected.
• Marking type A and AA means that the tile is not afraid of contact with any household chemicals.

Choosing the shape and size of tiles for the toilet

The spatial perception of the toilet room directly depends on the size and shape of the tiles..

The tile in the toilet is selected based on the following features:

• Design rules govern the use of dimensions for interior details in accordance with the scale of the room, which also applies to finishing materials such as tiles. In other words, the smaller the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet, the smaller the dimensions of the tiled elements should be. Otherwise, the room will seem even smaller.
• For a floor in a toilet with an area of ​​\u200b\u200b0.8 * 1.5 m, tiles of 15 * 15 cm are considered optimal.
• for walls this rule not so categorical, one tile larger than 15 cm is still not worth choosing.

Advice!
When choosing a tile on the trading floor, you should pay attention to the correctness of its geometry, since even in one batch there may be tiles of different thicknesses, uneven edges, etc., and this can seriously damage the toilet tiling.

Tile color and material

Depending on the material, color and texture, toilet tiles should be selected based on the following:

• More often than other types, ceramic, glass tiles and mosaics are found in stores, among which "ceramics" is the most common.
  Each type of tile is attractive in its own way:
  
  • ceramic tiles - price and moisture resistance;
  • glass - external attractiveness and high resistance to household chemicals;
  • mosaic - the widest possibilities in the design of patterns, paintings, etc.

• The limited space in the toilet forces the use of light-colored tiles that reflect light well in the wall decoration. At the same time, the floor can be finished in black, giving a sense of depth and visually increasing the volume of the room.

• As for the texture, it is important for the floor to choose a tile with a non-smooth rough surface, which will avoid slipping.
• Patterned tiles, friezes, inserts and borders are elements that allow you to decorate a room.
• Since the geometry of the toilet is usually extended upwards, it is necessary to visually expand the room, which will allow the transverse laying of tiles in a rectangular toilet.

Technology of laying tiles in the toilet

Preparation for laying tiles in the toilet includes the obligatory dismantling of the old flooring. The toilet bowl in the toilet should not be touched, it is better to cut the tiles to fit the shape of the toilet bowl and lay it around it.

The walls and floor are to be primed with a special mortar, and after it has dried, tiles can be laid, starting from the floor.

Laying floor tiles in the toilet

In the toilet, laying tiles on the floor is carried out according to the following instructions:

1. Applying a thin layer to the base, first lay out a tiled array of whole tiles, starting from the center of the room, and then moving towards the periphery, laying the trimmings. This way, the clippings will not be so conspicuous.
2. You can start laying from the entrance of the room and move further inland.
3. The gap between the tiles should be approximately 2 mm. It can be adjusted with special plastic crosses.
4. The degree of evenness of the laid tiles must be constantly checked by level.

Advice!
Glue on the base should be applied on a grand scale to exclude air gaps and sinks under a layer of tiles.

Laying tiles on the walls in the toilet

The installation of wall tiles should be proceeded after the floor covering has dried.

The technology for laying wall tiles is as follows:

1. Tiles are laid on the walls from the bottom up, starting the laying of each next horizontal row after laying the previous one.
2. Installation of tiles starts from the most noticeable far corner, and cut tiles, respectively, should be less noticeable.
3. The seams between the tiles are covered with a grout of a suitable color.

Otherwise, laying tiles on the walls is identical to the floor cladding.

As a result, having repaired the toilet with tiles, you will get an almost eternal facing covering, which will require the next repair, most likely, only when you want to change the design in the toilet. Difficulties in laying tiles can only arise during the first installation. After getting the first experience, re-tiling will not be so problematic for you.