How to do siding the right way. The process of self-installation of siding on the facade of a wooden house. External corner profiles
For an unprepared person, a variety of materials for exterior finish available on modern market, may cause some confusion.
Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for house cladding. The only issue is the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.
If you do not have experience in finishing work, best solution siding becomes, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishes:
- There is no need for "wet" work (plastering, etc.).
- Restrictions on weather or temperature conditions are set by the employee according to his own feelings.
- To install the material does not require any special skills, ease of installation provides the possibility of self-plating at home.
- The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.
This article is step by step instructions on mounting for teapots.
Siding is a sheathing material used for exterior decoration of buildings. It has the shape of oblong narrow strips with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden building(most often) or, less commonly, masonry.
Strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to a support on one side and for connecting to each other - on the other. The design allows you to collect canvases of any size from them.
Siding is assembled on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are light in weight, so it is easy to lift and carry them. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels need help.
The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.
The first samples were wooden, today there are different types of material:
- (PVC, acrylic, etc.)
The most common plastic (PVC) and metal types of siding that have the best performance or the most successful combination of quality and price.
In addition, there are many profile options:
- Timberblock.
- etc.
Mounting direction:
- Horizontal.
- siding.
Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.
Developers are constantly supplementing the lineup, so there can be no exhaustive list, the list always remains open.
Siding kit
In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (additions) are produced that serve to decorate the joints of different canvases at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or doorways etc.
to standard types can be attributed:
- Simple and complex angle (external and internal).
- H-profile.
- J-bar.
- Starting bar.
- Finish plank.
- Platband.
- Soffit.
- Circumferential profile.
All additional elements are fully consistent with the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.
Attention! Sometimes, as a decoration, extensions of a different, contrasting color are used, which gives the sheathing an elegant and original look.
The choice of crates - which is better, wood or metal?
The crate is a system of planks located in certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as a support for them. As a material for the crate, it is customary to use wooden bars or metal guides for drywall.
Disputes about that have been heard from the very first days of using the skin. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and need to be insulated.
At the same time, wooden parts There is general illness- they are subject to warping, deformation during shrinkage and decay. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanizing.
Another problem with wooden bars is curvature. Picking a perfectly straight piece from a stack of timber is a difficult task, as wood is highly susceptible to warping or screwing. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.
Thus more good option to create the crate, a metal profile is presented, but the cavity formed by it should be taken into account and filled in parallel with the installation of the insulation.
Installation of the selected crate
Installation of the crate begins with the installation of extreme strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall in the corners, the position is checked by a plumb line. Then a cord is pulled between the extreme strips (at least two), which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the crate and ensure the plane.
Intermediate strips are installed with a step that allows you to tightly lay insulation boards between them. To ensure a plane, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden purlins) or adjust the height metal profile above the plane of the wall when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.
After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that provides optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).
The control grill performs additional function providing a ventilation gap between the casing and the wall cake, which ensures the removal of steam a.
NOTE!
If it is not planned to install an external insulation, then it is mounted immediately carrier layer battens (perpendicular to siding panels).
Warming and waterproofing
During the installation of the crate, external wall insulation can be performed. As a heater, a material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected.. This moment is very important, otherwise water (condensate) will accumulate on the border of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.
Therefore, the most preferred insulation there will be slab mineral wool, which freely passes water vapor. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a layer of hydroprotection should be installed.. This is done at the stage of finishing the installation of the first layer of the crate and insulation.
A layer of a waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents the ingress of moisture from the outside. The counter-lattice is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.
Installation of the starting bar (J profiles)
The starting bar is the support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the intended bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting bar is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate.
CAREFULLY!
Self-tapping screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the bar to move freely. The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the elongated holes, so that during temperature shifts the part can move and compensate for dimensional changes without deformation of the skin plane. This rule applies to all siding elements.
The next bar is not fastened closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for thermal expansion.
How is siding installed?
The siding panel is brought into the lock with the lower edge starting bar, snaps into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the sheathing "grows" from the bottom up (or sideways if a vertical siding type is chosen).
Attention! In some cases, top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems have been found.
Installation of internal corner strips
The installation of the corners is carried out before the installation of the main panels, immediately after fixing the starting bar. The inner corner profile is fastened with the lower edge at the level of the starting bar, the density of the self-tapping screws is recommended to be 25-30 cm.
If the starting bar prevents you from positioning the profile on right place, from the corner profile, cut the nail strips to a length equal to the width start profile plus temperature difference.
If necessary, increase the corner strip, cut off the top nail strips by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water flow. The overlap is not more than 25 mm, so that the temperature gap is observed.
You can make a corner connection using a J-strip, which is cheaper than a corner one. This can be done with one plank, when it is tightly adjacent to the outer edge of the row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed in it.
The second option is to use two planks on each side of the corner, while there is a danger of water penetrating into the gap between the planks, since the absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.
Installation of external corner strips
External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the element's reverse geometry. The same method of overlapping, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located at the corners close to each other.
For outside corners, a simpler design is possible - with a simple corner that is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the junction of the planes is the most accurate, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option is the most preferable, because it is simpler and for unprepared people, this option seems to be optimal.
How to lengthen siding strips
If it is necessary to end-join the panels, an H-profile or a simple overlap joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm, for its implementation it is necessary to cut off the nail strip from the top and part of the lock from the bottom from one panel to the length of the overlap and plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. Overlapping is best done at random - in each row of panels on different places so as not to weaken the entire canvas.
H-profile installation
The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of the H-profile makes the longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetic, allows you to immediately cut the required number of panels to the length for a given section.
Installation of ordinary siding panels
It starts immediately after the installation of the starting strip and the corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut to the desired length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.
The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and fastened along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.
The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free play. The next panel is attached in the same way. By itself, the process of creating a plane is simple and does not require special knowledge, except for those indicated.
Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are found.
Loose connections or other causes may prevent the panels from being properly positioned, causing slight misalignment. If not produced constant control, then by the end of the installation, the changes may become noticeable and the whole work will be spoiled. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.
How to siding around windows and doorways
They are drawn up in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of planting the block in the plane of the wall.
For the design of openings that are in the same plane with the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of the siding, so the installation of the trim is done before installing the main panels.
If the openings have a depth of up to 20 cm, then a J-bar is used. Its installation is made on top of the finished panels, on window frame around the perimeter it is necessary to fix the finishing bar.
At large depths of openings, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut off taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and recruited according to the usual principle. A universal bar is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex angle is mounted on the outer junction of the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install extensions before mounting the main panels.
To finish the slopes on them, it is necessary to first install the crate, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of the slope, the lathing of the openings is set perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is provided by the position of the finishing or universal strips.
Siding finish strip
The finishing bar forms the upper (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fastened strictly horizontally at the desired height, the nail plank on the last panel is cut off.
The panel with a cut edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing bar and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the size of the required gap is observed, the lock securely fixes the panel in the plane of the web.
NOTE!
For correct installation the finishing strip and the last panel require an exact calculation made in advance, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment sheathing is planned.
Gable siding installation
Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main canvas. It will require a fairly accurate trim in length and at an angle.
A feature of the design is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with trimming panels at an angle, at which errors are possible, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start the installation from the back sides of the house, so that before moving to the front side there is some experience.
Useful video
In this video you will learn how to install siding:
Conclusion
Do-it-yourself siding installation is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is the looseness of fastening parts and compliance with temperature gaps, all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should abandon the haste and act deliberately, then the result will become the pride of the owner of the house.
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How to properly install siding
Let's take care of the exterior of the building. It would seem that what a problem it is to choose siding and sheathe a house with it: the main thing is to like it and serve for a long time. I went to the store, bought materials, the necessary tools and started finishing.
In fact, it turns out to be a little more complicated: it is easy to make a mistake in the calculations, when choosing a sheathing or when installing finishing panels. Before buying the siding you like, you need to decide what material you will sheathe the house with. Vinyl and acrylic panels, wood, metal and fiber cement plates are used for decoration.
Vinyl and acrylic panels are most often used to finish the building (photo # 1)
We will tell you what material to choose, how to fix the siding so that it lasts a long time, does not crack or fade. In addition to siding, you need to choose the type of crate and insulation. Insulating a house is worth it if you live in it all year round, and not just in the summer.
You can do all the work yourself or hire an installation team. In the case of hiring workers, you will control the finishing process and point out errors during installation. If you decide to install siding yourself, you will need tools.
Tools that may be needed to attach the siding (photo # 2)
Choosing the right tools
You will learn how to attach siding to the wall from the outside and what tools you will need for this:
Construction roll. The length of the finishing panels is 3 meters or more (there are panels measuring 3.10 and 3.66 meters). If you mount the strips yourself, you will need a tape measure of the appropriate length (for example, 5 meters);
Building level. How to fix siding so that it does not break or deform? To do this, you need to install the crate and fix the panels strictly according to the level. It is desirable to have two levels: for short sections, use a tool with a length of 70-100 cm, for long surfaces - from 150 cm. Measure the vertical and horizontal laying accuracy;
Screwdriver. You will have to tighten a lot of screws, so it is better to refuse to use a screwdriver. To mount the panels on a wooden crate, you can use nails, then instead of a screwdriver you will need a hammer;
To attach the siding to the frame, a screwdriver is most often used (photo No. 3)
Drill. If the walls of the house are made of brick, concrete or foam blocks, to install the crate, you will need to drill holes and install dowels in them;
Hacksaw for metal. Vinyl and acrylic siding convenient to cut with a hacksaw. For these purposes, they also use an electric jigsaw with a metal blade;
Knife cutter. To give the planks the desired shape, use a cutter knife or stationery knife with a thick blade (thin can break). A curly cut can also be made with a jigsaw.
Punch. Finishing and window strips often have to be cut. Cut off the part on which the mounting hooks are located. To make new hooks, professional installers use a punch.
To make new hooks on the bar, installers use a punch (photo # 4)
Ladder. For installation on the upper floors and on the gable, you will need a ladder. You can use an attached or folding ladder. To avoid damage to the sheathing, do not lean the stairs against vinyl or acrylic siding.
Types of crates
Let's move on to the installation and start with the choice of crates. The crate is made from:
- wooden beams;
- profiles for fixing drywall;
- metal U-shaped profiles for siding;
- plastic structures designed for mounting vinyl and acrylic panels.
Before installing the crate, inspect the surface. If there are cracks, crevices and other defects on it, they must be repaired. In the event that the old lining crumbles (for example, paint or plaster), it must be removed. If there are strong drops and irregularities on the walls, they should be smoothed out. Otherwise, the geometry of the wall will be violated and the siding may crack or deform.
After removing the irregularities, you need to treat the walls with a protective coating. To protect the walls wooden house, use an antiseptic and flame retardant: the first will cope with moisture and decay, the second will prevent fire. Treat concrete walls with a deep penetration primer. It will prevent mold and mildew.
Wooden crate for siding (photo No. 5)
The crate is mounted perpendicular to the siding panels. In other words, if you want to lay the siding horizontally, then the frame of the crate must be made vertical. And vice versa. The step between wooden beams or metal profiles should be 30-50 cm.
Hydro-wind insulation is laid under the crate. It protects the building from wind and moisture. Due to the presence of the crate, a ventilation gap is formed between the walls of the house and the finishing panels. The gap prevents the appearance of condensate harmful to the walls and cladding. To keep the house warm, you can lay insulation between the crate. For this, mineral wool and expanded polystyrene foam are used.
Let's consider in more detail each option of the crate
Wooden crate. It is made from bars 4 cm or 5 cm thick. When choosing bars, pay attention to the smoothness of the surface and the absence of cracks. Before installation, you need to dry the wood and cover it with solutions that protect the wood from decay and fire.
If you are faced with the question of how to fasten siding to wood, then there are 2 options: with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws or with a hammer and nails.
Metal lathing of walls and plinth (photo No. 6)
Profile for fixing drywall. If the task is to save money, then for the installation of siding, profiles are used for internal works. Most often, drywall sheets are attached to such structures. Manufacturers do not recommend using drywall profiles outdoors. Due to the thin zinc coating, corrosion appears on them under the influence of moisture. They are intended for indoor use and are not suitable for attaching siding.
Metal U-shaped profile. For fastening the siding, a durable metal profile 1 mm thick is also used. This design is more reliable than the crate with a drywall profile, but it will cost more. If you are using heavy cladding panels (for example, plinth or metal siding), then you need to use street profiles.
Polymer facade fastening system "Alta-Profile". Polymer profiles are not subject to rust and decay, they do not need to be further processed and create special storage conditions. If for the cladding of the building you have chosen vinyl siding, it must be borne in mind that in the hot summer it expands, and narrows in the winter. Polymer profiles prevent deformation facing panels due to sudden temperature changes, they have the same coefficient of expansion as siding.
Plastic profiles are not subject to rust and decay (photo No. 7)
How to fix the siding starter strip
After installing the crate, we proceed to fixing the siding. If you are new to finishing and don't yet know how to install siding, start at the back of the building - possible mistakes will be less noticeable. Used for siding auxiliary elements: mounting strips and profiles. They are starting, corner and connecting.
For fastening the siding, auxiliary elements are used: finishing strips and profiles (photo No. 8)
Siding installation begins with the installation of the starting bar. To do this, determine the lower mounting point and step back from it 1-2 cm up. Next, use a building level, chalk or marker to mark a horizontal line. To keep the structure stronger, a rigid base is attached under the bar, for example, a metal corner.
The bar is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. Use galvanized fasteners, they are not subject to corrosion. Under the action of temperature, the bar expands, so do not tighten the screws (do not drive nails) to the end, leave a small gap (1-2 mm). Further laying of the skin depends on the accuracy of mounting the starting bar. After mounting the starting bar, mount the corner and near-window elements.
Expert advice. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into the middle of the oblong hole. Fasteners should not press the bar to the frame.
How to fix window siding strip
To fix the siding at the window, use a near-window bar or J-profile. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window. The window can be located flush with the wall or equipped with external slopes.
If the window is flush with the batten, use a J-profile. First fix the slats on the sides of the window opening, (vertically) so that they do not protrude beyond the window. After that, install horizontal rails: above the window and below the window.
Cut horizontal J-rails not flush with the window, but with a margin of 6 cm on each side. The cutting angle can be made straight or 45°. Do not forget about temperature differences, leave a small gap between the joints of the profiles.
To fix the siding at the window, use a near-window bar or J-profile. The choice of fastening element depends on the location of the window (photo No. 9)
For finishing a window opening with slopes up to 22 cm wide, near-window (or wide near-window) strips are used. The installation of the near-window structure takes place in two stages: first, finishing strips are mounted along the perimeter of the window, after which near-window strips are installed on them.
Slopes with a width exceeding 22 cm require an integrated approach to installation. From the side of the window, a J-profile is installed along the perimeter, from the outside, a structure is mounted from the outer corner, into which the siding panels are inserted.
Installing door trims
For mounting around doors, J-profiles and window trims are used. During installation, it is important to remember the temperature deformation of the elements and not to install them tightly to each other.
Finishing bar attachment
To install the last siding panel, a finishing bar is used. Most often it is used in the upper part of the wall under the eaves. A plank prepared in size with self-tapping screws is attached to the crate (leaving a gap of 1-2 mm). After that, the top part of the siding is placed under the bend of the finishing strip. The last panel may need to be trimmed. To fix the trimmed panel in the finish bar, make new hooks, for this use a punch.
To install the last siding panel, use the finishing bar (photo No. 10)
How to install siding on a wooden house
Finishing panels are installed on any type of building. It doesn't matter if the house is built of brick, foam blocks of concrete or wood, it can be finished with siding. We will tell you how to fix siding on wooden house and other types of buildings.
Expert advice. Check siding for accuracy every 3 rows. Do this with a building level in the vertical and horizontal direction or use the Alta-Profil facade fixing system in order not to follow the level.
Before installation, wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and flame retardant (photo No. 11)
Before installation, wooden walls should be treated with a protective coating: antiseptic and flame retardant. For mounting the crate, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, no additional holes need to be made.
When finishing concrete and brick buildings, the walls are covered with a primer, for mounting the battens, holes are drilled for dowels, into which self-tapping screws are screwed.
Attaching basement siding to foundation
Basement siding is used to cover the foundation. For this, vinyl panels of increased strength are chosen. Such panels are resistant to damage and any temperature changes. Structure and form facade panels offers a wide variety of options. The design of facade panels is done "under the stone" and "under the brick".
Plinth panels are resistant to damage and to any temperature changes (photo No. 12)
Which panels to choose, and how to fix the basement siding to the foundation, you can decide for yourself. First, measure the foundation and calculate the required volumes. As with conventional siding, charge 10-15% more so you have a spare panel in case of a defect.
Plinth panels are thicker and heavier than usual, so for their installation they choose a metal U-shaped profile for siding or ready-made polymer solutions "Alta-Profile" (facade fastening system). Otherwise, the installation of basement siding proceeds in the same way as the installation of standard panels.
Conclusion
We told how the siding is properly fastened, explained how to install the crate and choose materials. If you decide to sheathe the house with siding yourself, first of all check the availability necessary tools and calculate the required volumes of materials.
Prepare the walls, choose the type of lathing, insulating materials and insulation. When installing, do not forget that siding expands under the influence of temperature. Leave small gaps, so you can avoid deformation of the panels.
Improve appearance at home or any other extension, you can install siding, moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material also used for cladding industrial buildings.
Siding is a practical and popular facing building material. It is produced in the form of panels with a length of 3 to 4 meters, each of which has a latch-lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. The siding has good performance characteristics and aesthetic appearance. From positive qualities you can note:
- makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
- thanks to great choice panels, the house can be given an individual style;
- high-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
- installation can be done independently;
- is a safe material;
- when dirty, it is easily cleaned with water and detergent.
Poor quality and cheap siding burns out under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.
Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures, and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is made of several types:
- Metal;
- Vinyl;
- Basement (fiber cement);
- Acrylic;
- Wood.
Let's take a closer look at each type:
- Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride and can mimic stone, wood, and brick finishes in appearance. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and decay. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and have a low cost, but are not resistant to mechanical stress.
- Acrylic siding is new finishing material, and technically almost similar to vinyl. At the same time, it is very durable, has a more resistant coating to UV rays. The panels have a long service life and do not deform from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and non-flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - the high cost.
- Metal siding is steel, aluminum and galvanized. This material is strong, durable and safe for environment. The panels do not change their original shape with temperature changes and are resistant to oil and chemicals. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. Metal siding has several disadvantages. When the protective coating peels off, rust forms on the panel. When it rains, there is a lot of noise. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.
- Wooden siding or facade lining is the most environmentally friendly material and has excellent thermal insulation performance. Produced from coniferous and larch wood species. So that the panels do not darken and do not crack, they are applied protective covering. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.
- Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. The outer side of the plate has special coating protecting from moisture and sunlight. The material is non-combustible, and also it does not rot or grow moldy. Fiber cement siding is weather resistant mechanical damage and deformation. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. Service life - 25-50 years, depends on the manufacturer and external conditions.
Installation of battens with waterproofing and insulation
Before installing the siding, it is necessary to make a reliable frame. The crate can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles. Attached to the walls with brackets. The racks of the crate are fixed opposite to the direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the crate is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.
Step-by-step instructions for making a crate:
- The surface of the walls is prepared, drains and all protruding parts are removed.
- If necessary, the walls are primed, wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic.
- Using a level and a plumb line, places for attaching suspensions are outlined. They are placed every 40 cm, retreat 15 cm from the edges of the walls, and 10 cm from the inner corner.
- Drill holes, insert dowels and mount U-shaped brackets.
- Beams are fastened along the edges of the wall, a rope is pulled between them.
- The remaining vertical beams are mounted.
- In increments of 40 cm, horizontal metal profiles are installed.
- Above the plinth, above and below windows and doors, horizontal elements of the crate are fixed with the help of a “crab” connector.
- Mineral insulation is laid between the posts and under the crate, overlapped at the joints. It is attached to the wall with dowels-umbrellas.
- The mineral wool and the crate are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are stacked on top of each other and glued with construction tape. Attached to the frame double sided tape and counter rails.
You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. The heat-insulating material is put on suspensions and fixed with dowels-umbrellas, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and a crate is mounted for installing siding.
For regions with a warm climate, thermal insulation is not done, and for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.
Installation of the starting bar
Before mounting the starting bar, ebbs are installed. They are fixed with self-tapping screws with a distance of 40 cm between them. When docking, the ebbs are placed on top of each other. Overlap width - not less than 2.5 cm. even angle use the building level.
The starting or starting bar refers to the elements that carry the load. It is installed from the upper edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first sheet of siding is being installed on it. The initial bar is fixed, referring to the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.
Installation of the starting bar:
- from the lower border of the future sheathing recede upwards by 4 cm;
- using a level, make marks on all vertical racks of the crate or make marks on the wall if there is no frame;
- the initial bar is set with the upper edge to the marks;
- fixed with screws in the middle of the factory holes;
- the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
- the same distance should be from the edges of the corner elements or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.
Why do you need a J-profile
- The J-profile is a versatile, load-bearing siding element. It happens ordinary, arched (flexible) and wide.
- The usual J-profile is needed to complete the facing row from the end of the wall, to sheath the edge of the eaves or to replace finish panel.
- Wide is usually used to decorate door and window openings.
- Arched is used along the edge of the opening, which has the shape of an arch. The panel has notches where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
- J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.
How to install siding
Siding is fastened to the facade of the building or to the crate. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:
- Vinyl panels should only be fastened to the factory holes.
- For wooden cladding it is recommended to use galvanized fixing fittings.
- The elements should be fastened evenly and straight, in the center of the factory hole.
- When fixing the siding to each other, they press it from the bottom up so that the top panel snaps into the lock of the bottom one.
- When installing the planks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the crate to expand the cladding during temperature changes.
Installation of internal and external corner strips
Corner panels are load-bearing elements. Fastened after the starting profile. Designed to close and fasten the edges of the siding, they also serve as guides.
Installation of corner strips:
- mount the panel so that its lower part protrudes 0.5-0.7 mm above the starting bar, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
- begin to fix the profile from top to bottom;
- the first self-tapping screw is screwed in at the top of the factory hole, the rest fasteners located in the middle of the holes;
- the distance between the screws is made 20 cm;
- to lengthen the corners, holes for fasteners are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the planks overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
- if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners are cut at the corner profile to the height of the starting strip;
- internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.
How to lengthen siding strips
When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathed wall, a connecting bar is placed horizontally to lengthen the panels. The connecting profile closes the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable, protects against precipitation under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful, and look like one whole.
You can also lengthen siding panels using the "overlap" method. Profile sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The overlapping length of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.
H-profile installation
H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to connect two horizontal panels sheathing, if the length of the wall is greater than the size of the facing material. It is also used when connecting soffit (cornice) siding.
The fastening of the connecting strip starts from the top of the wall. The first fastener is made in the upper part of the hole, the subsequent screws are twisted in the middle of the holes. The H-profile from the cornice should recede 0.5 cm, and be 6 mm below the starting bar. On both sides, the connecting profile has an indent of 0.6 cm from the launch panels, that is, it is located between them.
During installation, the siding is inserted into the H-profile not to the stop, but to leave a gap of 5-6 mm for thermal expansion.
Installation of ordinary siding panels
For a smooth and neat finish of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.
The first siding panel is inserted with the end side into the corner bar, and the lower part is inserted into the initial bend-lock and snapped into place. Then, if necessary, it is pulled up to align the horizontal row. Twisting the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. It is necessary to leave 5 mm between adjacent strips for thermal expansion.
Fasteners must not be fully screwed in. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. The profile must not be pulled up after the locking connection on the starter bar has snapped into place.
Subsequent rows of panels are installed in a similar way - one side of the siding is placed in a corner groove, and the other in an H-profile or in opposite corner. The installed panel snaps into the lock of the previous one and is screwed to the crate.
Facing the facade with siding is mounted to the top of the wall, but so that there is room for the installation of the finishing strip and the last profile.
Siding finish strip
The finish line is decorative element, which is used for a beautiful and airtight finish on the top edge of the last panel. Mounted with the side with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel latching facing up.
The order of installation of the finishing strip:
- the bar is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the eaves;
- measure the distance from the top of the finish bar to installed panels, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then the upper part is cut off from it;
- at the cut-off panel (without the upper part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
- for the prepared plank, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part is inserted into the lock fastening of the finishing panel and snapped into place.
Fasteners are screwed on the finish bar through 3-5 holes and in their center.
How to siding around windows and doorways
Before sheathing the siding, the openings of windows and doors are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). Rails are fixed along the perimeter of the inner side of the window (door), to which the finishing profile is screwed.
At the upper and lower window trims, the edges on the inside are cut by 2 cm, and bent in the form of "tongues". The upper and lower trim is inserted into the groove of the finish, then fixed with screws to the crate. When installing the side window trims, the "tongues" are brought inward.
If the width of the siding panel does not fit under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened to the desired depth along the width of the opening. At the cut point, holes are made for fasteners, which should match the factory ones in size. After that, the siding panel is slipped under the window element and fixed. Bottom window opening a low tide is installed, the upper edge of which rises from the window along its entire length. The width of the window tide should be 5 cm larger than the opening.
Above the window (door), the profile is mounted in the same way. For wall cladding on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they bring it under the platbands.
When wall cladding is made with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window slats is done after the installation of the panels.
Pediment sheathing
At the final stage, proceed to facing the pediment. If the attic will be used for living quarters, then the gable is insulated.
First prepare the roof overhangs and the end of the roof. Clean up old skin, ebbs and wind boards. The roofing material is cut so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The crate under the gable siding is done in the same order as on the walls.
Gable siding installation:
- if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by a cornice, then the tide strips are mounted;
- along the perimeter of the pediment, J-slats are fixed or the starting one is below, and the finish one is above;
- corners are made from a metal profile and strips of external corners are installed;
- since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a piece of siding is used as a template to apply cutting lines to it;
- the connection of the panels is done with an overlap or with the help of an H-bar;
- top - ridge siding sheet, fixed from above directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.
The cornice is finished with a special facing material- soffit. For the installation of panels, the edges of the eaves are sheathed on the inside with slats. J-strips are attached to them. Soffit siding is flexible enough that it can be easily installed with a slight downward bend and is wound into the grooves of the J-bar. A click is heard when the panel is correctly inserted. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The installation of roofing strips - drippers completes the cladding of the building. They are placed on the outside of the slopes.
You can install siding with your own hands. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. You should buy building materials in one batch at once, so that it is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated amount (for fitting). Additional elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.
Major repairs of the house or the construction of a new building also imply its exterior decoration. A modern wide range of materials and technologies allows you to realize any design solution and wishes of the owner of the house. Very often, the owners choose this option, how to fix the siding on the facade. This comparatively new material quickly gained popularity in construction market due to its excellent qualities and benefits.
What is siding
Siding is modern material for exterior wall cladding. It performs two functions - utilitarian and aesthetic. Siding protects buildings well from the effects of natural factors - rain, snow, sun, wind, and also serves as an excellent decor for house facades. Today it is one of the most popular materials for sheathing in the construction market.
When building or repairing a building, the exterior finish can be entrusted to specialists. However, this is a fairly simple process and it is quite possible to perform it yourself. You will find recommendations on how to properly fix siding in the article below.
Material Advantages
Siding has many advantages over such types of cladding as plaster, stone, lining. It is durable, resistant to adverse weather conditions and moderate physical impact, does not corrode and rot. Non-flammable, environmentally friendly, non-toxic. Such sheathing does not close the walls tightly and allows them to "breathe". In addition, heat-insulating material can be laid between the frame rails, which will insulate the building and reduce the cost of heating the house during the cold season.
The material is light weight and easy to transport. How to fix siding? Its installation is very simple, only the presence of a tool and minimal skills is required. It is good in operation, does not require updates and painting, retains its original shape and color for a long time. When dirty, you can simply rinse the walls with water from a hose.
Types of siding by material
A wide range of types, colors and textures allows everyone to choose the cladding for the house to their taste and budget.
According to the material of manufacture, siding is divided into several types:
- wood;
- vinyl;
- metal;
- cement;
- ceramic.
There are several mounting technologies for each type. You can choose the most suitable method for yourself, how to fix metal siding, wood, vinyl and others.
Siding structures
By design and preferred location, siding is divided into the following types:
- Basement. It looks like rectangular panels. The colors are dark, non-staining, the texture is like a stone or brick. Moisture resistant. How to fix basement siding? The procedure is simple and does not require special skills.
- Front. It is used for facing directly the facades themselves. It has a wide range of colors and textures of natural or artificial materials. Types of forms - "ship board", "M" and "W".
- Ceiling. Designed for covering ceilings in closed or open spaces and structures - garages, terraces, gazebos.
- Insulated. It has a complex structure of several layers - 1 or 2 layers of thermal insulation, a metal bearing base, decorative coating. It is used for additional insulation of the house.
Each of them has its own advantages, disadvantages and priority areas of application. How to fix the siding on the wall, you can learn from our instructions.
Colors and textures
A wide range of matte and shiny siding colors allows you to realize any design solution. It is resistant to fading, which allows you to use not only pastel colors for facade cladding, but also bright ones. rich colors. The most commonly used colors are white, grey, beige, yellow, brown, blue, red, green in all shades.
Types of textures are also different - the usual smooth, wood, brick or stone. Simple siding can be glossy or matte. Made under such artificial and natural stones like marble, brick, granite and others. The wooden texture happens under a bar, a log, a block house. How to fix the siding so that it looks beautiful and original? You can use horizontal, diagonal, vertical mounting technology. It is also possible to combine different types material and several ways of fastening.
Calculation of the required amount of material
In the instructions on how to properly fix the siding, the first step is to calculate the right amount material and additional elements which are required for this. Initially, it is better to make a schematic drawing of each of the walls of the building, marking all the dimensions on it. Then it's better to break the surface into geometric figures, calculate the area of each of them and calculate total amount. Then you need to subtract the area of all window and door openings. This will be the required area of \u200b\u200bthe material. With the help of the drawing, it will also be possible to distribute the use of scraps.
It is also necessary to calculate the number of metal profiles and screws. The number of finishing strips (edging rails, external corners, starting strips) should also be counted. To do this, the perimeter of the house is calculated, the length of the gables and cornices, the perimeter of windows and doors are measured, the length of all corners is summed up. Should be purchased more material and accessories to prevent force majeure situations.
How to fix siding
After the required amount of siding and additional elements has been calculated, and all materials have been purchased, it is necessary to prepare the tools for work:
- roulette;
- metal ruler and square;
- electric jigsaw or hacksaw with small teeth;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- hammer;
- pliers;
- level;
- plumb;
- carpenter's pencil;
- chalk and twine.
When all the tools are at hand, you can proceed to preparatory work. How to fix basement siding and other types this material? To begin with, scaffolding is established. Then the walls are cleared of interfering branches of nearby trees and climbing plants. Gotta take off the lights drainpipes, shutters, external window sills, corner boards, planks between walls and foundations. If mold is found on the walls, it must be removed and the surface treated with an antiseptic. The distortion of window and door frames should be eliminated.
Before attaching the siding to the foam or other material (the algorithm of actions is the same in all cases), you need to mount the crate. Metal profiles are installed at the corners and along the perimeter of window and door openings. The crate can be made of metal or wooden slats. The distance between the rails should be no more than 1.5 meters. They are vertically fastened with self-tapping screws or dowel nails to the walls, controlled by the level and plumb. Insulation is laid between the racks.
Then the starting strip and outer corners are strengthened, after which the panels pre-cut to size are screwed, starting from the bottom. Each subsequent row of panels is attached only after it has been made full installation the previous one. The top row interlocks with the bottom row, and on the other side is attached with self-tapping screws.
The procedure for cladding a house with siding is very simple. Read the instructions carefully or consult with experienced professionals, and you will make the exterior of your home simply magnificent.
To get an attractive, reliable and inexpensive option finishes, you should choose to install do-it-yourself siding on a wooden house. This material is produced different colors and textures, among which everyone can find their own version.
Material selection
Before you sheathe a wooden house with siding, you should study the basic information about the types of material. You can give the following brief description:
- plastic siding - the cheapest, practical, but afraid of mechanical stress;
- metal - strong and durable, but rust protection is needed (does not apply to aluminum);
- wooden - fits perfectly into the properties of a wooden house and will be the best option, but buyers may be scared away by the price;
- fiber cement - not so popular, not combustible, durable, but difficult to install and has a large mass.
Next is to choose the material of the crate. It can be made of wood or light metal profile. The installation of a metal crate is easier to perform for an uneven base. Such a frame will be strong and reliable.
But do-it-yourself siding of a wooden house wooden frame will cost less. Also, you do not have to worry about protecting the element of the wall and the crate at the points of their contact, since they are made of a material with similar properties. When buying and selecting wood for the crate, it is important to control that the tree is:
- without bundles;
- without deformation;
- without bluish spots or traces of rot.
Before starting work, the wooden crate is impregnated with flame retardants and antiseptics. The former increase resistance to fire, and the latter to mold and fungus.
Foundation preparation
Before you sheathe a wooden house with siding with your own hands, you will need to carefully examine the wall. It is necessary to check its strength and the absence of severe damage. Next, you need to remove old finish, which may interfere with the fixing of a new finishing material. The base is cleaned of dirt and dust.
Frame installation
Finishing a wooden house begins with the installation of rails. For the vast majority of siding, the sheathing needs to be fixed vertically. Its step is selected depending on the insulation. The clean distance between the guides should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool. For polystyrene, the distance is selected exactly according to the width.
For the manufacture of wooden crates, most often take bars with dimensions of 40x40 mm or 50x80 mm. Using metal version a set of special profiles is required different section.
Frame rails are installed in 40 cm increments, incl. around openings. At the very bottom of the rail should not be For attaching the frame to wooden wall use nails or screws. In this case, the former must necessarily have an anti-corrosion coating of zinc or aluminum.
Before starting the fastening of the crate with a construction steleer, a vapor barrier is mounted. To do this, you can use the usual polyethylene film, but it is better to buy a special vapor barrier membrane. The choice of materials in a wooden house should be taken very responsibly. It is not recommended to use those that will block the movement of air through the walls. For this reason, the membrane is better than the film.
When finishing a wooden house with siding, the vapor barrier is fixed with an overlap of 10 cm. Before starting work, it is recommended to read the manufacturer's instructions. Next, the guides are fixed with the necessary step, starting the installation from the corners. The evenness check is performed using the building level.
Insulation is laid between the guides of the crate. Better if it will mineral wool– due to good air permeability. On top of the cotton wool, it is required to fix a layer of waterproofing and wind protection. The best option would be modern vapor diffusion (not to be confused with vapor barrier) windproof membranes.
Fixing the starting J-profile
Facing the house with siding with your own hands at the next stage involves the following procedure:
- Finding bottom point on the crate using a level. It is necessary to measure 50 cm upwards from this point and mark this point (for example, with a loosely screwed self-tapping screw).
- Sequential marking of the line with self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the building.
- Pulling the cord at a distance of 50 cm from the bottom along the self-tapping screws.
- Marking the location of the corner profiles on the rails. At the same time, the profile is laid to the corner, its edges are marked.
- Fixing the first starting profile along the rope with a gap of 6 mm from the future border of the corner profile.
- Fixing the rest of the starting strips with a gap between adjacent ones equal to 10-12 mm for thermal expansion.
- Checking the installation of starting bars by level.
The profile must be mounted perfectly straight. If there are deviations at this stage, the entire siding finish of a wooden house will be skewed.
Corner profiles
Before attaching the siding, you will need to install the corner strips. They can be for outdoor and for internal corners. The first ones are mounted in this order:
- Marking the location of the edges of the spotlights.
- Attaching the guide to the corner of the building. There should be a gap of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit (roof). The lower border of the profile is located 6 mm below the border of the starting profile. The bar is fixed with screws in the upper part.
- Checking verticality with a building level or plumb line. Adjust location if necessary. Fastening with self-tapping screws of the bottom and middle. Fasteners do not need to be provided too often.
Corner profile mounting If it is necessary to join the profile in height, the docking point is located at the same level in all corners of the building. Docking is performed with an overlap. At the same time, the part with holes for fastening the top bar is cut so that a gap of 9 mm remains between it and the same part of the bottom panel. Instead of a corner profile, when mounting siding on a wooden house, it is allowed to use two starting ones.
Step-by-step instructions for installing profiles for internal corners look almost the same. But in this case, other slats are used.
Solutions for internal corners Framing openings
Fixing the siding with your own hands with insulation, you may encounter difficulties at this stage of work. Fastening in this case depends on how the opening is located relative to the plane outer wall: flush or recessed.
Waterproofing is required around the windows Finishing the facade in case of flush openings is in this order:
- Waterproofing openings.
- Fastening architraves or J-type profiles. For each opening, you need to use 4 platbands: 2 horizontal and 2 vertical.
- The profiles are connected to each other. On each side of the upper profile, a bridge incision is made. They are bent down to divert precipitation to the lower profile. Areas of material on the vertical slats that prevent connection to the top slats should be removed. The side and top profiles are connected so that the bridges are inside.
- The operations are repeated with the lower casing. But the bridges in this case are cut in the side elements.
Installing profiles around windows To work with recessed openings, you must follow the same recommendations as in the previous case. The differences lie in the use of profiles of different shapes.
Installing the first panel
Work should begin on the side of the building that is least noticeable. In this case, there is an opportunity to practice and "fill your hand." The first panel is first inserted into the corner profile and into interlock connection start, snap. Between the bottom of the lock and the first element of the siding, a gap of 6 mm is required to compensate for thermal expansion.
The next step is to fix the first plank of the cladding on the crate. For this, self-tapping screws are used. The siding has elongated holes for fasteners, the self-tapping screw must be placed in the middle of this hole. All fasteners are placed strictly perpendicular to the wall surface. Self-tapping screws do not tighten much, this is necessary to prevent deformation and damage during thermal expansion.
Installing the rest of the panels
Finishing with siding with insulation (or without it) is then carried out in two ways:
- overlap extension;
- extension using the H-profile.
In the first method, it will be necessary to first shorten the locks of the panels and the frame for the fasteners so that the overlap length is 2.5 cm. The installation of the H-profile is carried out according to the same principle as the corner elements. It is necessary to remember about the gaps of 0.6 cm from the starting bar and 0.3 cm from the soffit.
Every 2-3 rows it is worth checking the horizontal position of the siding using the building level. When passing through the openings, a piece of trim that enters the window or door is simply cut off.
Completion of finishing
How to sheathe a building under a roof? You need to follow this algorithm:
- Measuring the distance between the bottom of the lock of the finish bar and the penultimate siding panel. From this distance, subtract 1-2 mm for the indent and get the required width of the last panel. The element is marked and cut off the upper part, in which a lock connection is provided.
- In the upper part of the last plank, hooks are made, which are located in 20 cm increments. To do this, cuts are made and bent to the outside.
- The prepared bar is inserted into the penultimate panel and snapped into the finishing profile.
To sheathe the pediment, use profiles for internal corners or starting ones. The installation technology is similar to the cladding of the main part of the wall. In the same way, you need to cut the panels and remember about the gaps of 6 and 9 mm. The last uppermost section of the gable can be fixed with a self-tapping screw directly through the panel material. This can only be done here, in other cases, drilling holes is not allowed.
