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Insulation of external walls, theory and practice, technology and materials. The choice of materials for the insulation of the exterior walls of the house The best insulation of the house outside

Thermal insulation of external walls is perhaps the most important in the issue of room insulation. Internal thermal insulation is less effective, although sometimes it is also done. Today we will tell you how external thermal insulation of walls is done and what should be taken into account.

Here the question of the material of the frame of the house is important, because it is important not only to choose a heater, but also to be able to make a high-quality installation. Also on the video in this article and the photo you can see the principles of choosing a heater and options for its installation.

Why choose external insulation

The main advantages of external insulation are that the area inside the premises is preserved, but at the same time the dwelling is protected from cooling, which significantly increases heat saving. Due to this, the frame of the building becomes stronger and more durable.

The advantages also lie in some other features:

• Thermal insulation outside the walls does not load the structure and does not put pressure on the foundation.
• Walls with external thermal insulation retain heat for a long time, because they do not cool down. In addition, moisture evaporates well from the external insulation, which contributes to the excellent service life of the building frame and its walls.
• External insulation protects not only the walls from freezing, but the entire structure of the building, which is a significant advantage when choosing this type of insulation. Internal protection from cold provides thermal insulation, at which outer wall freezes quickly even with a not very large minus.
• If you provide only internal insulation of the walls of the house, over time, a niche is formed in which condensate accumulates. This contributes to the emergence and growth of the fungus, which is very dangerous for health. In addition, condensate contributes to a significant cooling of the wall.
• Condensate that may accumulate in the area between internal insulation and wall, does not dry out even in the summer. This contributes to the rapid aging of the walls. If the insulation is applied from the outside, the condensation point is in the thermal insulation material.
• Huge Advantage external insulation It also consists in the fact that such protection significantly increases the soundproofing characteristics of materials of any type.
• All work on fastening materials can be done by hand and this does not require special equipment. Accordingly, the final price will be much lower.

Thermal insulation materials

Laying thermal insulation on outer wall done according to technology. Blanks for the production of bases, from which the most popular are created insulating materials For exterior finish walls - this is polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) and mineral wool. When choosing heat-insulating surfaces, great attention must be paid to quality.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is soldered from small granules into which moisture does not penetrate. To obtain a foam base, the granules are converted into cells by exposure to high temperature. The granules themselves contain big number microcells. So, each of polystyrene boards almost 99% consists of airspace.

This:

• The price of the material is acceptable and this played a role. Styrofoam is not inferior in quality to other heat-insulating materials (see How to do-it-yourself wall insulation with foam plastic). Standard slabs of expanded polystyrene are made from 5 to 10 cm thick. Styrofoam is quite reliable because it is moisture resistant. It is protected from decay processes.
• Expanded polystyrene is divided into several types. The first one is extruded. This species has a finely dispersed cell structure when viewed in cross section. It is used to isolate fences, basements (where it is quite damp), garages, outbuildings. The second one is expanded, with larger cells.
• If we consider expanded polystyrene in terms of its quality thermal insulation characteristics, it is quite popular not only because it is affordable, but also because of the simple installation scheme.
• It is also important to take into account the fact that when installing foam boards, it is necessary to use a special lining or plaster the outside of the walls. Leaving the foam protection open is impractical.

Mineral wool

This name was given to this material solely because of its composition. It is "woven" from mineral-type fibers. This wool is divided into subtypes. It all depends on the raw material and its origin.

So:

• There is stone mineral wool (see How is the insulation of walls outside with mineral wool ) . It is made from rocks. No less popular is high-quality slag wool, which is created from open-hearth or blast-furnace slags.
• Such a heater does not have a cellular, but a fibrous structure.. Fiber binders are synthetic. Products have the form of mats or plates. The thickness of each layer reaches 10 cm. Minimum - 5 cm. Mats are mounted large areas work surfaces.
• Mineral wool has significant advantages. These are excellent thermal insulation properties and the impossibility of arbitrary ignition. Such plates are resistant to external damage and do not deteriorate when exposed to moisture. Mineral wool will not become a breeding ground for insects.
• During installation, there will be no difficulties, the manufacturers of this material promise. In addition, it is highly resistant to mold and temperature extremes.

glass wool

According to its characteristics, it is similar to mineral wool, but in fact it is what is left of the glass industry.

• Glass wool has excellent resistance to temperature changes. It is important to know that when installing protective insulating surfaces with glass wool, it is necessary to work in special gloves, carefully protect the skin and mucous membranes of the eyes, respiratory organs.
• It is advisable to carry out installation in special glasses.

External insulation using warm plaster

The connection of cement with different fillers called warm plaster. Lightweight material is most often chosen as the main component in connection with cement. For example, vermiculite.

Perhaps the use of sawdust or foam. As for sawdust, such material is mixed with warm plaster for exterior finish walls will not work. Better to use it for internal insulation. Styrofoam and other materials (expanded clay crumb, pumice in the form of powder) are optimal for facade decoration.

• It is important to take into account some of the properties of the insulator, which must have: low thermal conductivity and moisture and steam transmission capacity. At the same time, the heat insulator must be porous, which retains the breathability of the material.
• All of the above characteristics are perfectly combined in warm plaster. In addition, it is environmentally friendly, fire resistant, and durable.
• Warm plaster is applicable when decorating walls from the outside. At the same time, decor is also applied well to the facade, which does not reduce excellent insulation.

How to apply warm plaster

This material is qualitatively and quickly applied to the surface of the walls. Reinforcing mesh is not needed. However, some experts advise using it, arguing that the mesh provides even greater strength and additional warmth.

• When applying this plaster, it is not necessary to level the walls. The material is very plastic, which makes it possible to "display" the surface exclusively with the plaster itself. In addition, properties warm plaster allow excellent contact with any other material applied to the facade of the building, which is very important.
• The technological process of working with warm plaster from actions with traditional views this material is no different. To make the wall especially smooth, at the end of the application procedure, the surface can be cleaned, sanded.

In what cases is warm plaster used?

For example, take polystyrene foam. This material is undesirable to use for finishing the walls of rooms that are at risk of fire hazard. Such objects include: educational institutions, medical institutions. Expanded polystyrene also contributes to the accumulation of moisture inside the room.

• Warm plaster is absolutely non-toxic, because it does not emit harmful substances, which can not be said about polystyrene foam. Warm plaster is not able to ignite spontaneously, but at the same time it is vapor-permeable. Suitable for insulation and decoration of hospitals, kindergartens.
• Well-established warm plaster in the design of facades complex type. Uneven contours do not show through such a lining, unlike a polystyrene coating. Warm plaster not only retains heat in the room, but also gives a beautiful view to the building from an aesthetic point of view.
• This type of insulation is suitable for external wall decoration, refining and thermal insulation of the floor (so flooring prepare for the final stage and at the same time carry out thermal insulation). With the help of warm plaster, the walls are put in order, on which chips, cracks have formed, there are seams. It is also used for the installation of roof slabs.

Attention: When insulating walls, you should not lose sight of any trifle. It is important to consider everything: purchase a reinforcing mesh, paint, dowels. Without this basic list to spend correct finish facade is not possible.

Reinforcing mesh

To form a base for reinforcement, a glass mesh is suitable. Optimal size cells - 5 * 5. The weight should reach 200 g/m2.

• It is obligatory to treat the mesh with a specialized coating that cannot be damaged by an alkaline environment. It is important to take this into account when designing the corners of the building and places where the thermal insulation is adjacent to the elements of architectural decoration: parapets, cornices. In such areas, you will need a metal mesh that has good rigidity.
• In addition, you need qualitative composition glue. You should not resort to cheap options other than those recommended by the manufacturer of the reinforcing mesh, so that you do not have to completely redo the facade of the building.

Plasters

Construction specialists make huge demands on plaster, since this material is constantly exposed to strong external influences. These are temperature fluctuations, humidity or excessive dryness of the air. Therefore, the outer surface must steadfastly accept all the hardships of the weather.

The main thing is that the plaster is vapor permeable, does not retain moisture and protects the building from the aggressive effects of the external environment.

Facade paints and decorative plasters are divided into several types:

1. Based on polymer cement. This material is highly breathable. They call it "the most breathable". Polymercement is not combustible, frost-resistant. It has a coefficient of adhesion of the order of 1.0 MPa. This type of insulation is good for economical use with mineral wool or polystyrene.
2. Acrylic plaster. This type of insulation is very elastic, but at the same time it is resistant to deformation. Acrylic plasters have proven themselves well in tandem with polystyrene foam, since they do not let moisture through. Even if the climate of the area where this insulation is used is very humid, acrylics do not absorb water very well. This increases the wear resistance and durability of the walls on which the insulating material is applied. In addition, acrylic plasters can be immediately applied to the walls. By the way, they are produced in a rather rich and varied color palette.
3. Silicate plasters. No less resistant to deformation than acrylic. They are similar in properties. In addition, walls treated silicate plaster, are practically not subject to pollution, which is convenient when ennobling buildings in industrial cities.
4. It is important to take into account the texture features of the plaster. It is finely or coarse-grained, mosaic.
5. You need to pay close attention to the order of work. They cannot be carried out at air temperatures below +5°C. At the same time, the average daily temperature level should reach only positive values.

Attention: Experts forbid applying plasters if a strong wind is blowing, or direct sunlight falls on the walls, it is pouring rain. Violation of the application technology will lead to a short service life of the cladding.

Facade paints, like plasters, are wear-resistant. They are great if the climate in the region is hot or too humid. The service life of such material is at least 30 years.

This applies to paints based on silicone resins. Polyurea paints last half a century. If you choose and apply the paint for the cladding correctly, you can not worry about a new color for quite some time.

External thermal insulation of wooden houses

The wooden structure has long earned the reputation of the most environmentally friendly material. To insulate such structures, insulation with ventilation properties is necessary. It will be necessary to protect the tree from the conditions of the external unfavorable environment. It is worth considering that a small niche must be left between the skin and the insulation.

The process of installing thermal insulation

The wooden structure is isolated using the following components:

1. Frame construction.
2. Cladding indoors.
3. Vapor barrier.
4. Insulation.
5. Wind protection.
6. Niche for ventilation.
7. Cladding from the outside.

Before starting work, an antiseptic solution and flame retardant must be applied to the walls.

This drug prevents fire:

• If there are gaps, they must be closed. After that, a crate is placed on the surface. It requires bars pre-impregnated with an antiseptic to prevent infection. mold fungus. The bars are made at least 5 cm thick. In width, they should be 2 centimeters thicker than the insulation.
• Between the bars it is necessary to leave exactly as many centimeters as the width of the insulation plate has. The insulation will fill the gaps between the bars.
• As soon as all the niches are filled, the crate is installed using anchor fasteners.

vapor barrier

Before laying the insulation, you need to make a layer of vapor barrier. The choice of this type of material is made based on the type of construction or method of installation.

Vapor barrier materials are of several types:

1. Aluminum foil.
2. Polyethylene mesh on which the film is applied.
3. Specialized resin coated paper.
4. Paper coated with aluminum foil.
5. Fabric laminated on both sides.

Installation of vapor barrier is carried out by any of the methods, whether it is vertical application or horizontal. Installed with a stapler.

Attention: Care should be taken to ensure that all seams are tight, and the film is not torn anywhere. Otherwise, steam will penetrate inside and turn into water droplets. Its accumulation is a favorable environment for the appearance of mold.

• Between pieces of vapor barrier it is necessary to seal the seams well. This is done with ribbons. special type which are made from butyl rubber. There is an option for overlapping insulation plates.
• The next step is to install the heater. Plates are placed from the bottom up. Thermal insulation is fixed with a dowel-fungus. A waterproofing consisting of a membrane is mounted on the insulation with a stapler. As a waterproofing, a film coated with aluminum or based on kraft paper with various impregnations is chosen.
• It is important to take into account the location of the front and back sides in order to prevent the process of moisture transmission and, as a result, dampness.
• Finally, a beam is fixed and the surface of the walls is lined. To do this, choose plastic siding or other materials for the facade. It is important to leave a small gap between the waterproofing and the cladding. Approximately 3-4 cm.

Installation of thermal insulation on external walls is not so simple. But no doubt you can do it yourself. You have instructions for each type of material. Do everything according to the proposed rules and the thermal insulation of the walls from the outside will make your life much warmer.

September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Warming the house from the outside is, on the one hand, a fairly simple procedure that you can handle on your own, even without any experience. But, on the other hand, this operation raises a lot of questions, moreover, it requires strict adherence to technology, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations. Therefore, below I will describe to you several ways to perform external insulation as efficiently as possible and without damage to the structure.

External insulation methods

Many people who encounter insulation for the first time do not know how best to place the insulation inside or outside. According to SNiP 3.03.01-87, in private houses, for a number of reasons, external thermal insulation should be performed:

• if you place the heat insulator from the inside, the walls will freeze even more than before the insulation. Moreover, a heat insulator will form in the space between the wall and the insulation;
• from the inside it is impossible to provide thermal insulation of the ceiling, as a result of which the insulation is defective;
• internal thermal insulation reduces living space.

Thus, the answer to the question posed above is unequivocal - internal insulation is performed only in cases of emergency.

So, if you decide to insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, you will need dry heat-insulating material in the form of plates or mats for this purpose. As a rule, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used as a heater. With their help, you can insulate the facade in several ways:

• wet facade- the technology consists in gluing insulation and applying plaster over it. This method is widely used due to its relative cheapness. Its disadvantage is the low strength of the facade and fragility, compared with other finishing methods;

• hinged facade- is a frame to which facade materials are attached (siding, lining, facade, etc.). Insulation is located in the space between finishing material and wall. This finish is more durable, but at the same time more expensive;
• cladding with thermal insulation blocks, which can be made of wood concrete, foam concrete, gas silicate, etc. It must be said that thermal insulation properties these materials are worse than polystyrene foam or, for example, mineral wool. However, they are more durable.

If, for example, you need to insulate an old wooden or country house frame house, then this method of insulation is best solution. Moreover, block insulation can be combined with other heat insulators.

Everyone should decide how and with what to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the situation, financial capabilities and wishes regarding the design of the facade. As you can see, each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Below we will consider in more detail all the insulation options described above.

Wet facade

First of all, I will tell you how to properly perform a wet facade. For this you will need the following materials:

• insulation in the form of mats or plates (mineral wool, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam);
• special dowels for insulation ("fungi");
• glue for insulation;
• perforated aluminum corners
• fiberglass mesh;
• primer;
• decorative plaster;
• dye.

Before buying a heat insulator, people are always interested in - what is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? If the house is brick or made of other non-combustible materials, you can save money and use foam. If the structure is wooden, it is necessary to use mineral wool, which will serve as protection against fire.

The process of installing a heater with your own hands looks like this:

1. first of all, you need to prepare the facade for work - dismantle all the elements that will interfere with the installation of insulation;
2. then you need to dilute the glue with water according to the instructions on the package;
3. then the glue is applied to the surface of the insulation using a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, you can apply glue with "bludgeons" in the corners and in the center, which will give more opportunity to align the plates with respect to each other.

It should be noted that on this stage it is necessary to ensure an even vertical surface walls, therefore, in the process of gluing the insulation, you need to use a level and beacons (a horizontally stretched thread along the wall, along which each row of the heat insulator is aligned);

1. further, the insulation is additionally fixed with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall directly through the slabs or mats. It is necessary to hammer in the dowels so that they are recessed and do not protrude above the wall surface;

1. according to the same scheme, slopes are pasted over, the only thing is that they are not fixed with dowels;
2. after that, the evenness of the walls should be checked by the rule, if necessary, individual sections can be rubbed with a grater;
3. after that for everything outside corners perforated aluminum corners are glued;
4. then the hats of the self-tapping screws are smeared with glue;
5. The next step is to glue the mesh. To do this, use the same glue that is applied with a spatula to the surface of the insulation. A mesh is immediately applied to the treated surface and a spatula is drawn along it, as a result of which it is embedded in the adhesive composition.

I note that the mesh must first be cut into canvases of the required length, taking into account the fact that it should overlap and turn into corners;

1. after drying, the glue is re-applied to the surface of the walls with a thin layer. In order for the composition to lay down evenly, the solution must be made more liquid than for gluing;
2. when the glue dries, the surface is treated with a primer using a paint roller. The composition is applied in two passes;

1. after the soil dries, decorative plaster is applied to the surface and leveled with a small one. When the composition begins to set, the plaster is rubbed with small circular or reciprocating movements;
2. the final step is painting. There is nothing complicated in this procedure - the roller must be dipped in a bath of paint and then treated with a wall. The paint is applied in two layers.

This completes the work. It should be noted that this technology can be used to insulate not only a private house but also an apartment.

hinged facade

To make a hinged facade on your own is no more difficult than a wet one. To do this, prepare the following materials:

• insulation in the form of mats or plates;
• metal profile or wooden beam for mounting the frame;
• adjustable brackets;
• vapor barrier film;
• dowels for insulation;
• finishing material for the facade.

Many people are sure that the cheaper the heat insulator, the better. However, the same mineral wool or polystyrene can be of different quality. For example, cheap mineral wool can be exposed to moisture, and foam plastic can easily ignite and support combustion, so it is better to use materials from famous brands even if they are not the cheapest.

The instructions for warming look like this:

1. after preparing the facade, you must first perform installation. There are quite a few options for its design and location of the insulation in it. Most often, racks are mounted on brackets, between which mats or plates are placed.
   I must say that the installation of the frame is the most critical stage, since the evenness of the walls depends on it. Therefore, all racks must be placed in the same vertical plane;

1. then a heater is laid between the racks and fixed with dowels;
2. then a vapor barrier film is attached over the insulation. As a rule, it is fixed on the frame. To do this, you can use rails that are mounted horizontally, while the film is located between them and the racks;
3. at the end of the work, the frame is sheathed with facade material, after which additional elements are installed - ebbs, corners, etc.

This completes the installation of the hinged facade with your own hands.

Facing with heat-insulating blocks

If you need to insulate an old, for example, log house, then it is better to build additional walls for it, which will also serve as a heater. Of course, this will have to spend more time and effort, but the result fully justifies these costs.

There are quite a few options for cladding walls. The most common materials are:

• blocks of Sibit (it is more correct to say aerated concrete, since Sibit is the name of the enterprise, which the people began to call the material it produces);
• wood concrete blocks - made from wood chips mixed with cement;
• gas silicate blocks - resemble aerated concrete, however, lime is used as the basis for their composition. Besides, given material receive in the autoclave way;
• from polystyrene concrete - contain foam granules in their structure;
• from expanded clay concrete - contain expanded clay granules in their structure.

So that you can decide on the materials yourself and understand, for example, the better a block of gas silicate is in comparison, for example, with aerated concrete, below I will give a table with the main characteristics of these materials:

As we can see, some materials win in strength, others in thermal conductivity. For example, a gas silicate block is more durable than an arbolite block, but at the same time it is more heat-conducting.

Of course, the price of the material is also an important factor in the choice. Arbolite blocks cost about 4,000 rubles per cube, and polystyrene concrete material costs about the same. The price of gas silicate is a little cheaper - about 3,000 rubles per cubic meter.

The house cladding technology is as follows:

• around the perimeter of the house is a shallow foundation. On our portal you can find detailed information on the arrangement of such a foundation;
• then the foundation is waterproofed with several layers of roofing material;
• further along the perimeter of the house a wall is erected. Since the blocks have big sizes, masonry is much easier than brick. However, in any case, it is necessary to ensure that they lie flat and in the same plane, therefore, in the process of work, it is necessary to use the level, plumb lines and beacons;

• if faced with wood Vacation home, after several rows, pins are laid in the facing wall, which are pre-hammered into wooden wall. The pitch of the pins should be about a meter and a half.

Walls built from heat-insulating blocks need further finishing, for example, plastering. Therefore, this technology of insulation is rarely used. Most often it is used in cases where it is necessary to strengthen and insulate a garden house.

If the same procedure is required for a residential building, you can brick it and place mineral mats between the walls. Of course, the costs in this case will be much higher, but additional finishing will not be needed, and the building will acquire a solid and presentable appearance.

Here, in fact, are all the options for external insulation of houses that I wanted to acquaint you with.

Conclusion

As we found out, there are several ways of effective external insulation of houses, which have their own advantages and disadvantages. Regardless of the technology that will be optimal for you, you can cope with this task yourself. The main thing is not to violate the sequence of actions described above and do the work carefully.

For more information, see the video in this article. If during the process of warming you encounter any difficulties or some points are not completely clear to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 7, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

For many years the motto of the Soviet construction industry was total economy. So misguided economic policy made it possible to minimize the capital costs of construction, which made it possible to quickly and easily build buildings for residential, public and industrial purposes. Permissible temperature and humidity conditions for a person to live or work were achieved due to high operating costs for heating, the price of which was regulated by the planned economy. Times have changed, the planned economy of the USSR has gone down in history, but the thin walls remain. Prices for all types of energy carriers are steadily rising, and centralized system heating has ceased to justify itself. Wall insulation is one of the main solutions to ensure comfortable conditions residence, minimizing the cost of additional heating.

External wall insulation

Exterior walls should be properly insulated from the outside by adding a layer to the wall effective insulation of foam or similar material, characterized by high thermal resistance, sufficient strength and low water absorption.

Why it is necessary to insulate from the outside, the following figures clearly demonstrate:

Fig.1 - "classic" thin wall; L1- thickness of the main wall, 1- material is light concrete with porous fillers; 3 - external and 5-internal decorative layer, in thermal engineering calculations they are usually neglected; 6 - temperature graph inside the wall, where T (Vn) and T (Nar) - internal and outdoor temperature air. 7 - graph of the "dew point" temperature. Analyzing the scheme, one can note the closeness of graphs 6 and 7, there is very little left to create the conditions for the occurrence of condensate.

Fig. 2 - the same wall, but the situation has changed: the outside temperature has dropped, the heating power is not enough. Temperature graphs 6 and 7 - “dew points” intersected, a condensation zone formed - L (k), the wall inside became wet, condensate can penetrate deeper, worsening the characteristics of the wall. Prolonged exposure to moisture on the material of the outer wall leads to the appearance of fungus and efflorescence. Internal putty can flake and crack just like paint.

Now the outer wall has been insulated by placing a layer of effective insulation on the outside.

Fig.3 Conventions:

1. Outer wall.
2. Effective insulation, for example, expanded polystyrene.
3. The outer decorative layer is made of special putty, which is reinforced with fiberglass and painted with paint for facade work. Reliably protect expanded polystyrene from weather influences, increase the fire resistance of the structure.
4. Adhesive solution provides mechanical fastening of the insulation layer and its tight fit to the wall, if the area of ​​the insulated surface is more than 8 m², special dowels are additionally used.
5. Inner decorative layer.
6. temperature chart.
7. Dew point chart.

The temperature graph - 6 and the dew point graph -7 are far from each other, which means that the occurrence of a condensation zone does not threaten such a layered structure.

If the heating is central, then the room will become warmer, if it is individual, you can save a little by screwing the boiler thermostat.

Materials and technology of insulation of external walls.

Most often, foam is used for insulation, or more precisely, polystyrene foam, made by extrusion. Such a material is characterized by very low thermal conductivity, sufficient strength with low weight, practically does not absorb moisture, as it has closed pores. The chemical industry produces a sufficient range of such expanded polystyrene in the form of plates of various thicknesses (from 2 to 10 cm), density and strength.

Expanded polystyrene boards by TechnoNIKOL, Carbon series. The edge of the sheet is made with a special “L-shaped” groove, which eliminates the formation of “cold bridges” at the seams.

Rigid polystyrene boards from URSA, with a special groove, allow you to insulate walls, floors, attics and basements in one layer.

Ordinary foam boards are not recommended for wall insulation, but due to their low cost (3-5 times cheaper than extruded polystyrene foam), they are still used very often, which in turn negatively affects the quality and durability of insulation.

The general scheme of insulation of external walls with expanded polystyrene:

The outer wall can be brick, foam or expanded clay concrete panel.

The technology of conducting work when insulating walls with polystyrene foam:

1. The surface of the walls is cleaned of dirt and peeling fragments of paint or plaster.
2. Recesses and irregularities are filled with facade plaster solutions.
3. The prepared surface is primed, depending on the condition, with primers that strengthen and increase adhesion.
4. Plates are installed on the prepared surface with the help of an adhesive composition. Adhesive composition can be applied both on the plate and on the wall.

Adhesive compositions of the company "Caparol".

Ceresit dry mixes for gluing ST83 expanded polystyrene, for gluing and reinforcing ST85.

Schemes for applying the adhesive solution: 1 - continuous, 2 - stripes, 3 - beacons. The adhesive solution is applied so that 1-2 cm is left to the edge of the plate, and the composition does not get into the seams.

Plates are glued, similarly with brickwork with dressing:

1. Mechanically, polystyrene foam plates are fixed using plastic dowels with a wide plate cap, at the rate of at least four pieces per plate, the installation of which should be done a day after gluing to the mortar. Such dowels are suitable for fixing all types and brands of polystyrene foam boards, regardless of the manufacturer.

Dowel-sets with a metal rod are characterized by high strength, and with a plastic (reinforced polycarbonate) rod - thermal performance, excluding the appearance of a "cold bridge".

When installing an insulating layer from ordinary foam or from polystyrene foam boards that do not have a groove, dowels are often installed in seams or at joints, but this may not be entirely true.

Large firms, manufacturers of building chemicals and mixtures, for example, the German Ceresit, have developed their own wall insulation technologies. They produce a range of building chemicals and mixtures designed to fully satisfy the need for materials at all stages of insulation.

It should be noted that insulation with extruded polystyrene foam reduces the overall vapor permeability - the walls "do not breathe" and, therefore, measures are needed and engineering solutions providing adequate ventilation.

Insulation of external walls from the inside.

Consider the case of insulation of the outer wall when the insulation is located on the inside.

Fig.4 Symbols are similar to Fig.3. The graphs of temperature-6 and "dew point" -7 intersected, forming a vast zone of condensate occurrence - L (k), both in the wall itself and in the insulation.

Despite the fact that theory and practice have proven the fallacy of insulating external walls from the inside, such attempts continue. Why is insulation from the inside so attractive:

• Work can be carried out at any time of the year, even in winter or in the rain.
• Simplicity of work: no ladders, scaffolds, cars with lifts or climbing equipment are needed, which means that you do not need to hire specialists.

It is rational to insulate the first and second floors from inventory scaffolding.

For builders who have mastered climbing equipment, the floor does not matter.

A false wall made of drywall with mineral wool insulation is cheaper than external insulation both in terms of material and cost of work.

Negative moments of insulation of external walls from the inside:

• Condensation may appear on the wall and, as a result, fungus, efflorescence and rust spots.
• The condensation zone moves into the volume of the insulation, and mineral wool in similar wet conditions loses its properties and can be destroyed.
• The device of an impenetrable vapor barrier will greatly complicate the “breathing” of the walls, which is unacceptable in the absence of ventilation (systems ventilation ducts and breather).
• Insulation inside reduces usable area premises.

In theory, it is possible to insulate the outer walls from the inside. As a heater, you should use extruded foam or ordinary foam with a density of at least 50 kg per cubic meter, which is not only durable, but also waterproof, as it has closed pores. It should be glued to the wall with a special glue for polystyrene foam on cement base. The cement stone of such glue, as well as extruded polystyrene foam, is not affected by moisture. The foam-2 layer (see Fig. 4) will act as a vapor barrier. Thus, there will be no problem with condensation. Moreover, in winter, due to heating, air humidity is less than normal (to ensure normal humidity household and climate technology sell special humidifiers and dehumidifiers that reduce humidity). In practice, doing enough quality installation foam sheets with the organization of the same ideal joints will be very difficult. In addition, styrofoam combustible material, therefore, in the event of a fire, it will release toxic combustion products, which can cause death.

It should be added that due to the widespread use plastic windows And entrance doors with rubber seals, ventilation must be made the rule, otherwise it will be very difficult to achieve normal room humidity.

Options with vapor barrier between insulation and drywall sheet with decorative trim, as well as with ventilation of the internal mineral wool insulation with the help of air gaps and ventilation holes, quite expensive. When insulating the outer wall from the inside, it is logical to insulate part of the floor and ceiling adjacent to it, leading vapor barriers to these areas. Craftsmen can add insulation and foam molds to such a “layer cake”, where a 1-3 cm layer of foamed polymer material is reinforced with aluminum foil. If such calculations turned out to be erroneous, then black mold and traces of efflorescence, red spots will appear on the walls (see Figures 5 and 6).

Wall insulation from the inside is considered incorrect, but it cannot be completely ruled out. Regardless of the opinion and evidence of the majority, each landlord makes his own decision.

The only case when the installation of insulation from the inside is fully justified is the insulation of basements, because there is soil outside.

Insulation of external walls will reduce operating costs while individual heating or at the central one to make the rooms warmer. It should be insulated only from the outside, and it is recommended to use extruded or high-density polystyrene foam as a heater. Rigid mineral wool boards are used in ventilated facade systems, which are rarely satisfied with the insulation of residential buildings, and this is more suitable for public buildings.

The market of heat-insulating materials offers us huge selection options for external wall insulation are especially popular. These are products based on mineral wool, liquid insulation, classic foam plastic, and a variety of expanded polystyrene products.

In this article, we will figure out which insulation is better, study the reviews, and find out what should be followed when choosing a heat-insulating material in each case.

1 Why do you need external insulation of the walls of the house?

External thermal insulation of the walls by an order of magnitude increases the comfort of living in the house, both in winter and in the cold season. Performing thermal insulation of the walls of the house quality insulation, your house will receive full protection at any time, not only from freezing, but also from overheating of bricks, expanded clay concrete or gas silicate blocks in the summer.

Moreover, good thermal insulation materials, as a rule, are completely hydrophobic (an example of this) - they do not absorb water, so that the walls of the house will be reliably protected from moisture.

Executed according to right technology external thermal insulation increases the average temperature inside the house by 4-5 degrees, since the walls do not freeze through in winter and do not transmit cold to the air inside the house, which, according to reviews, can significantly reduce the financial costs of heating the room.

Qualitatively calculated and executed thermal insulation even at the stage of building a house makes it possible to optimally select the elements heating system, and save both on the boiler and on the radiators.

Similar savings apply to equipment to maintain a comfortable temperature for a person in the hot season. Thermal insulation materials work not only for insulation.

Since their thermal conductivity is minimal, they do not allow the walls of a house made of bricks, expanded clay concrete or gas silicate blocks to warm up under scorching sunbeams, as a result of which in summer it is much cooler inside such a house than in non-insulated buildings.

The right approach to "sandwich" wall insulation

2 Types of heaters

As a material for external thermal insulation of walls, depending on financial capabilities, foam plastic, mineral ( basalt wool), liquid penoizol, or extruded polystyrene foam. It is not recommended to save on thermal insulation materials.

Of course, there are ways to insulate walls made of bricks, expanded clay concrete, or gas silicate blocks with foam plastic on a budget, such insulation will give a certain improvement, however, you should not expect the same efficiency from it as from insulating a house with basalt wool or foam insulation.

When choosing a heater, the key factor is the coefficient of its thermal conductivity, on which the thickness of the material layer required for wall cladding will depend.

For almost all materials in demand today in the middle price category, this indicator is in the range from 0.025 to 0.045 W / mk (Watt per meter per Kelvin). The extreme place is occupied by polystyrene, in which this indicator is equal to 0.043 W / mk as in.

When choosing materials for wall insulation from the outside, it is also important to take into account such qualities as hydrophobicity (resistance to water), chemical inertness and mechanical strength, since these factors directly affect the durability of the insulation.

It is best that the heat insulator also has noise-reducing properties, which will allow you to kill two birds with one stone: the external insulation of the house will also solve the issue of soundproofing housing.

According to statistics, at least 85% of private residential buildings built over 20 years ago do not meet thermal insulation standards. As a result, people are forced to spend a large amount of money on space heating in order to maintain a comfortable temperature for housing during the winter period.

As the graph below shows, even insulating the outer walls of the house with a ten-centimeter layer of conventional inexpensive insulation (the same polystyrene foam, or extruded polystyrene foam with), reduces heat loss through the walls by at least 3 times.

2.1 Mineral wool

The most popular insulation for the outer part of the walls is mineral wool. Insulation of walls outside with mineral wool is very popular due to the excellent thermal insulation characteristics and the moderate price of this material.

The concept of mineral wool can mean three types of insulation at once: wool based on basalt rocks, slag wool (made from slag left in blast furnaces of the metallurgical industry) and glass wool made from cullet and similar waste.

Basalt wool is considered the highest quality option for mineral wool.. Methods for the production of this insulation are based on the remelting of basalt rocks.

The smelting of rock can be carried out either in blast furnaces or by induction heating under the influence of electromagnetic radiation.

The molten basalt rock is fed into a centrifuge, inside which a cooled forming drum is located. Due to the pressure drop and the centrifugal force of the drum, separate basalt fibers are formed from the melt on its surface, which are fed to the shaper.

The shaping unit turns the individual mineral wool fibers into a solid carpet like that, which is impregnated with additives that improve operational properties mineral wool.

By itself, mineral wool has a susceptibility to moisture absorption, in order to eliminate this drawback, manufacturers impregnate it with a polymer mixture, which, after hardening, gives mineral wool the required hydrophobicity.

Comparison specifications different types of mineral wool

1. Temperature conditions: slag wool (ShV) - up to 250, glass wool (SV) - up to 450, basalt wool (BV) - up to 1000 degrees;
2. Thermal conductivity coefficient: ShV - from 0.46 to 0.48; CB, from 0.038 to 0.046; BV - 0.035 to 0.042 W / m-k;
3. Flammability class: all types correspond to the NG class (non-combustible);
4. Absorption coefficient for 24 hours of immersion in water: SH - 1.9%, MW - 1.7%, BV -0.095%;
5. Pungency: ShV - yes, CB - yes, BV - absent;
6. The concentration of binding impurities: for all types of mineral wool from 2.5 to 10%;
7. Nominal heat capacity: ShV - 1000, SV - 1050, BV - 1050 J/kg;
8. Mineral wool sintering temperature: SHV - 250, CB - 450, BV - 600 degrees;
9. The length of individual fibers: ShV - 16, SV - 15-50, BV - 16 millimeters;
10. The noise reduction coefficient is the same as for: SHV - 0.75-0.82; CB - 0.8-0.92; BV - 0.75-0.95.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and slabs, suitable for insulating walls made of brick, expanded clay concrete, or gas silicate blocks. This heater, as evidenced by the reviews, the best option for thermal insulation of attic floors, floors, and any flat surfaces.

2.2 Liquid penoizol

From liquid heaters the most popular option is penoizol.

This is not an option that is suitable for arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, since you will need to rent special equipment that produces penoizol right at the workplace and pay for the labor of the workers who manage it, however, if you are not afraid of these difficulties and the financial costs associated with them, then penoizol - the best option for warming the exterior walls of the house.

In general, the cost of insulating a house with penoizol is comparable to the final price of insulating a house with mineral wool.

However, there is one important difference, penoizol is also successfully used to insulate internal voids of already exploited hollow walls made of brick, expanded clay concrete, or gas silicate blocks, without the need to dismantle them, which cannot be done with other heaters.

Among the advantages of insulating a house with penoizol, one can single out the maximum protection of walls from any external influence, since after solidification, penoizol turns into a monolithic surface through which neither wind nor moisture passes.

Solidity also guarantees high-quality insulation, since the possibility of the formation of cold bridges, which reduce the effectiveness of all thermal insulation, is eliminated.

To insulate the house with penoizol, an installation is delivered to the work site that produces foam from a special resin and chemicals.

Penoizol is applied to the wall with a hose, the surface of the walls is pre-coated special formulations to improve adhesion. A facing layer of siding or any decorative material is installed on top of the penoizol.

2.3 Extruded polystyrene foam

This material is used not only for the insulation of the outer walls of the house. Due to its mechanical strength and durability, expanded polystyrene is also used for thermal insulation of the outer contour of the foundation located in the ground.

It is justified to use extruded polystyrene foam for insulation of a house stand if your house, in itself, has good thermal insulation, and you are looking for an inexpensive and durable material.

Among all budget options insulation, polystyrene foam - the best option, superior to conventional foam in all respects. Among the strengths of this material are the following advantages:

• Maximum hydrophobicity (polystyrene foam, like polystyrene, is completely waterproof);
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity, from 0.029 to 0.034 W / m-k;
• High density, and, as a result, resistance to deformation;
• Chemical resistance;
• Wide range of permissible temperatures, from -500 to +700 degrees;
• Self-extinguishing property;
• Minimum panel weight and thickness.

It is also worth highlighting the ease of installation of extruded polystyrene foam on all types of walls. In order to fix this insulation on the surface of brick, expanded clay concrete or gas silicate blocks, no additional equipment is required. load-bearing frame, which is necessary when installing mineral wool.

Panels of extruded polystyrene foam are planted on the walls with liquid nails, and fixed around the perimeter with umbrella-shaped anchors.

In order to improve the heat-saving characteristics and increase the durability of a house made of wood, brick or foam concrete, insulation is often made from the outside according to the principle of a hinged facade or using “wet” technology. In this article, we will figure out how to carry out external insulation of a house and what heat-insulating materials are best used for this.

Overview of insulation materials

Mineral wool

Mineral (stone or glass) wool - the most universal insulation, which is produced with various densities. For internal insulation, a less dense version of the heat insulator is used, for external arrangement it is more dense, which is able to withstand various negative impacts. In general, mineral wool differs from other types of insulation in its high thermal insulation capacity, durability, incombustibility, mechanical strength. Its disadvantages are poor resistance to moisture and a rather high cost.

Ecowool

Ecowool is environmentally friendly pure species insulation with low thermal conductivity, as well as a mineral wool heat insulator. Ecowool is produced from recycled cellulose raw materials and impregnated with special compounds that prevent the material from igniting and rotting. The only disadvantage of ecowool is that it is difficult technological process application by spraying, however, this method allows you to evenly fill all the cracks and structural protrusions of the facades, reliably protecting the building from the penetration of cold and moisture into the interior.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is one of the most popular polymer types insulation, characterized by durability, almost zero water absorption, excellent heat-saving properties, ease of installation. Most types of expanded polystyrene boards are impregnated with flame retardants, thus improving its fire resistance. Unlike heaters made from natural components, polystyrene and other types of polymer heat insulators are not susceptible to damage by microorganisms: mold, fungus and moss.

Styrofoam

Polyfoam is a heater with a sufficiently high heat-insulating ability, light in weight and easy to install, moisture resistant and inexpensive. The disadvantages of polystyrene include its airtightness, low resistance to mechanical damage and flammable toxicity. In addition, the foam has a low durability, it is destroyed by elevated temperatures and in contact with chemically aggressive substances that are part of some paint and varnish coatings.

What material to choose

But, along with excellent heat-saving properties, insulating materials of natural origin have increased hygroscopicity - they quickly absorb moisture, retain it in their thickness, and when frost sets in, they freeze and lose their ability to shield the cold.

In order to protect the insulation layer made of natural materials, it is recommended to use vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes that screen moisture and do not interfere with the ventilation of the walls.

Unlike mineral wool and other types of insulation made from natural raw materials, thermal insulation made of foamed polymers practically does not absorb moisture and serves for a long time. If the installation of stone or glass wool is associated with certain difficulties and requires compliance with safety standards, then the installation of foam, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam can be quickly and easily done by yourself. At the same time, the thermal insulation properties of these materials are slightly worse than mineral wool.

Features of insulation of the walls of the house outside

Wall insulation from the outside is mainly carried out according to the technology of hinged facades, leaving a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and finishing facing- so the walls of the house are more efficiently ventilated.

Stages of warming the house outside when arranging a hinged facade:

• Cleaning and drying, treatment of walls with antiseptic compounds.
• Installation of a vapor barrier film with sealing of the joints of the panels with mounting tape.
• Installation of the frame for the installation of insulation and external cladding.
• Insulation laying, fixing with dish-shaped dowels.
• Installation of a waterproofing, windproof multifunctional membrane.
• Fixing the facade finish on the frame using clamps.

Warming of the facades of the house can also be carried out using the "wet" technology - glue a layer of heat insulator to the outer walls and apply a layer decorative paint or plaster.