Options and technologies for the correct laying of pavement tiles, the necessary materials and tools. How to lay paving slabs correctly: methods and recommendations What is the best way to lay paving slabs
Tracks from paving slabs and paving stones are well-deservedly popular with home craftsmen. The use of such a sidewalk is a good opportunity to obtain original design, reasonable price and reliable coverage. Laying paving slabs with your own hands is not particularly difficult and can be done in the absence of special experience.
To choose a specific way of laying paving stones, you should study the composition of the soil and landscape features of your site, familiarize yourself with the offer of paving elements in your region. You should also evaluate the operating conditions of the coating and correlate the wishes with your budget.
Conditions for the installation of paving stones
Usually the soil on the site has a normal bearing capacity and is sandy loam, loam or gravel. In this case, paving is carried out without the use of cement mortar and concrete. In that case when we are talking about a recently filled area, as well as clay or dusty soil, to ensure a uniform load on the ground, it is necessary to make additional basis from concrete.
Before starting the construction of sidewalk paths with your own hands on a site with difficult terrain, you first need to equip the terraces with or, and then proceed with the installation of the coating.
The organic layer must not remain under the tile, as it rots and shrinks. For this reason, when preparing the base for the track fertile soil is removed and removed from those areas where pedestrian coverage is planned.
In this case, an excessively deep trench can be sprinkled with gravel. The roots of bushes and trees can disturb the path, so they are either uprooted or a path is planned at a distance of 3m from them.
Rules for laying the pavement of tiles and paving stones
Scheme for choosing paving stones according to operating conditions The tile itself is chosen based on the appearance and the required reliability of the coating. It is easy to determine how thick paving stones can be in accordance with the above diagram. can be studied in a separate article.
Different kinds paving stones Note that, according to the quality of manufacture, pavement tiles can be vibro-cast, hyper-pressed and vibro-pressed. Vibrocast paving elements have a complex configuration and are inexpensive. Such products are well suited for garden paths.
Hyper-pressed paving stones are more expensive and noticeably stronger. This coating will withstand the wheels of cars.
Testing paving elements is quite simple: durable tiles make a ringing sound when struck, and vibrocast tiles make a dull sound.
Decorative elements can be coated with a dye on top, which allows abrasion of the decorative layer. Mass-dyed elements will never lose their color.
In order to make a path, you need a curb stone. You can purchase it or in accordance with our recommendations.
As an underlying material for car parks, it is better to use crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40, while a size of 5-20 is suitable for footpaths. When laying paving slabs, the following list of tools will be required.
Marking and planning of the coverage area
Curvilinear and radius shapes of the paths lead to a large amount of tile trimming, increase the cost and duration of the paving. For this reason, they are used only when necessary.
To dig a trench, uneven patches of pavement are drawn on the ground or marked with sand. Smooth paths are marked with a cord and pegs. When planning, do not forget to take into account the curbs and elements of the drainage system.
During the planning and marking of coatings for normal drainage, it is necessary to provide for the following slopes:
- 1-2 degrees across walking paths;
- 3-4 degrees along the tracks and on the grounds;
- 3-7 degrees when using paving stones on the blind area near buildings.
According to the markings for the footpath, they dig a trench with a depth of at least 20 cm. At the location of the curb, the depth of the groove will be at least 25 cm.
We install curb stone
Installation curb stone for paving stone walkways In the absence of a curb, the pavement path will fall apart. The curb stone can be installed both above the canvas of the track, and flush with it. When placed on the surface of the trays for draining water, it is convenient to equip them next to the fence of the track.
Various options for organizing the border About that, with our own hands, we have prepared step-by-step instructions. There may be a situation where the installation of a curbstone is unacceptable. In this situation, one or two extreme paving elements on the track are placed on a cement mortar prepared in a ratio of 1: 3, in accordance with the above scheme.
We provide drainage and underlayment
It is obvious that part of the moisture during rain penetrates into the gaps between the paving elements. Thus, in order to drain water and protect the coating from destruction, it is necessary to provide a drainage underlying layer.
The scheme of laying paving stones on a mixture of cement and sand Ideally, the base for water drainage must be equipped in accordance with the above diagram. With this technology, a leveling layer of sand 20 mm thick is poured onto a flat and compacted soil, which protects the geotextile from damage. Geofabric does not allow mixing of soil and gravel.
This is followed by a layer of crushed stone of at least 70 mm, which is compacted by a rammer to a state where the top stones do not move during movement. Depending on the load, in car parks, professionals require laying a layer of crushed stone up to 30 cm.
On top of the rubble again follows a leveling layer of sand 20mm. Its task is to protect another sheet of geotextile, which will prevent crushed stone and gartsovka from mixing (a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 5).
Often, builders neglect the laying of geotextiles, leveling layers of sand and even gravel. A simplified version of the arrangement of the base is allowed for narrow paths in the country. Obviously, appearance paving, of course, will not suffer. At the same time, how long the coating will last, everyone is free to check for himself.
Paving with paving stones
According to the technology, paving stones are supposed to be laid on a gartsovka (a dry mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 5). There is an opinion that the presence of cement only interferes with the repair of the coating.
It is reasonable to assume: since the cement interferes with the repair, it means that the track is stronger. However, in most cases, tiles are placed on ordinary sand. IN difficult conditions operation, paving stones are laid on a cement-sand mortar.
During the construction of the path, curbs are beacons for laying gravel and sand. In this case, a rule is prepared from the board, as in the photo, with cut corners, with which the filled material is pulled for leveling.
When laying paving stones on large areas first, a cast-off of twine and pegs are installed that determine the level of coverage. Relative to the twine, beacons are laid out on the ground from a pipe, corner or channel. In this case, sand leveling is done by the lighthouse rule.
Adding rubble is carried out 1-2 cm above the planned level and rammed to a state in which the pebbles from above are not displaced by shoes. The sand is also placed 1-2 cm higher, slightly moistened with garden watering can and compacted to the point where it leaves no traces when walking.
At the beginning of the process for flat surface sand, whole elements of paving stones are laid in accordance with the pattern. Masonry starts from the corner, from the curb. The paving surface is controlled by the rule and corrected rubber mallet. Failed elements can be removed, sprinkled with sand and put back in place.
Paving stones are laid out not in rows, but diagonally. In this case, it is easier to control the surface of the coating.
In those places where the whole tile does not fit, it is cut with a grinder. It is better to use a diamond disc and be sure to use the most important tool - goggles.
Stack elements rectangular shape on winding sections, you can do it yourself in accordance with the following order:
- paving stones are placed with the long side along the coating;
- laying starts from the inner radius;
- paving elements in adjacent rows are laid with an offset;
- seams across the track are obtained in the form of a wedge.
When paving radius sections with tiles of complex shape, the seams are placed at an angle of 30-45-60 degrees to the direction of movement. After filling the coating with whole elements, the free areas are closed with trimmed paving stones.
As the laying of all paving elements is completed, the seams between them are filled with sand. It is convenient to use the janitor's tool: a broom or a brush.
Laying paving stones on concrete: concreting and reinforcement
Recall that when arranging paths in the yard of a private house with problematic soil (fresh soil, clay, dusty sand), to preserve the geometry of the coating, the technology of laying paving stones on concrete base. It is also sometimes necessary to decorate an already existing concrete base with tiles. At the same time, you can put the coating on the carving, cement mortar or tile adhesive.
When constructing a track with a concrete base, it is important to understand that concrete slab Together with the curbs, they form a kind of trough in which moisture accumulation is possible. This can lead to swelling and cracking of the coating. If the paving elements are laid on tile adhesive, then the penetration and accumulation of moisture will not occur.
Otherwise, drainage must be provided around the perimeter of the coating. However, in practice, trays are installed along the curb to drain water and they do not pay attention to the indicated circumstance, believing that wet sand under the influence of frost will evenly move with the coating without disturbing it.
The scheme of laying paving stones on concrete using tile adhesive Based on the scheme for arranging the footpath, the depth of the pit when laying tiles on the adhesive will be at least 250mm. When choosing the method of paving paving stones for gartsovka or sand, you will need to add at least 50 mm more. For a platform for a car, a layer of sand and rubble will have to be increased, and the trench, accordingly, needs to be dug deeper.
In the indicated scheme, a thin layer of sand and geofabric do not allow cement laitance to leave concrete for crushed stone. Paths in the country can only be reinforced with wire mesh located at the top of the concrete to protect against frost heaving.
For car parks, another layer of reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm will be required, located at the bottom of the concrete. Reinforcement meshes are laid with the intersection of at least one cell. To install the reinforcement at the right level, linings of pebbles will be required.
To protect against destruction, expansion joints are arranged in concrete every 3-5 m of the track. For this purpose, gaskets from boards or 2 layers of rolled waterproofing can be laid in the solution.
Depending on the temperature, paving can be started 1-2 weeks after the concrete has been placed. The installation of paving slabs can be performed on the cutting, as well as on cement mortar or tile adhesive. How to lay paving stones on a mixture of cement and sand, we considered earlier.
Installation of tiles on mortar
Laying paving stones with your own hands can be done on a solution of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. With this method of paving, the recommended layer thickness is 20-30mm. The mixture hardens rather slowly, and even an inexperienced master will be able to lay out a smooth surface of the coating using the rule and level.
First, a whole tile is laid out on concrete in accordance with the pattern. Uncovered areas are cleaned from the solution with a trowel or spatula. After the masonry has hardened, the tiles are cut and laid on the mortar in the remaining areas. At the end of the work, the gaps between the paving elements are filled with carving or sand and moistened with water.
For masters who lay paving slabs with their own hands step-by-step instruction will help save the budget for arranging walking paths and parking lots near the cottage. The technology is the same for tiles made of concrete and polymeric materials. Work should be carried out in the summer in the absence of precipitation.
This coating allows you to completely avoid concreting and other "wet" finishing processes, but only on soils with normal bearing capacity. If the site is located on a fresh embankment, undermined and problematic soils (for example, dusty sand or pure clay), has a complex terrain, it is necessary to concret the base to ensure a rigid underlying layer and even distribution of loads on the soil.
On sands, gravel, rocky soil, sandy loam and loam, it is enough to remove the arable layer and replace it with non-metallic material:
- paths - sand;
- parking - crushed stone 5/40.
Crushed stone parking lot.
To exclude mutual mixing of soil with inert materials, it is necessary to line the bottom of the pit with geotextiles and bring this non-woven material onto side walls. It is necessary to compact with a vibrating plate layers of 10 - 15 cm maximum thickness, as in the photo below.
geotextile layer.
A vibrating plate with an electric or gasoline drive will be needed in the further stages in any case. Therefore, it is either rented or made by hand. You will also need a tool:
- the rule is special, made from a board, ordinary plaster 1.5 - 2 m;
- rubber mallet - for laying paving slabs (TP) and mounting curbs;
- level - preferably a laser one, but a bubble one will do, on difficult terrain - a hydraulic one;
- hard brush - needed to fill the seams at the last stage;
- LBM ("Bulgarian") - used for cutting cladding elements;
- cord - marking the route, slopes;
- trowel and shovel - backfilling and leveling sand.
Tool for paving TP.
Important! Crushed stone is laid in its natural state, the sand is abundantly moistened, it is not necessary to spill it from a hose / bucket, so as not to create with my own hands top water in this technogenic layer.
On a complex terrain, terracing is first carried out with retaining walls made of gabions or monolithic reinforced concrete. Otherwise, lateral soil movements will break the geometry of the tracks after a couple of years of operation.
Even on flat areas, a slope of paving slabs is necessary, since the material is waterproof, and the gaps between the paving elements are not enough to quickly divert storm and flood runoff. Between the curbs and tiles, it is desirable to mount storm trays, and integrate storm water inlets under the vertical drains of roof drains.
Technology of paving paving slabs
It is important for the home master to understand that the quality and resource of the coating garden paths completely dependent on soil conditions:
- clay soils swell unevenly, breaking the geometry of sidewalks and parking lots;
- problem soils sink over time;
- on slopes and without contouring with a curb, the tile spreads.
To fix the base, the tile will have to be completely dismantled.
When buying non-metallic materials, it is worth considering:
- in parking lots, crushed stone fraction 20/40 is preferable, depending on the intensity of traffic and operational loads, with a layer thickness of 30 cm or more;
- crushed stone 5/20 with a layer of 10 - 15 cm is enough for paths;
- sand is better to choose river or washed quarry with minimum percentage clay;
- when compacted with a vibrating plate, the compaction coefficients are 1.7 for sand, 1.3 for crushed stone, therefore, when buying, the volume of the pit must be multiplied by these figures, otherwise there will not be enough material.
Paving slabs must provide the required quality of the exterior of the tracks and the durability of the coating. Therefore, the lining is chosen according to the signs:
Hyperpressed paving slabs.
Important! Vibrocast products are cheaper, because they are easier to manufacture, have an original configuration, and reduce the finishing budget. Hyper-pressed tiles are difficult to split, damage, this option is optimal for parking lots that are serviced by snow plows in winter.
Vibrating TP.
Layout and layout
Unlike load-bearing structures the marking of the backyard space is most often combined:
- curvilinear and radius forms are used to increase artistic value;
- straight tracks are marked with cast-off cords;
- roundings are outlined directly on the ground according to patterns or large-sized compasses (a rod tied with a cord to the central peg).
When marking, the following factors should be considered:
Chernozem contains organic matter, which rots under the tiles and shrinks. Therefore, the loose arable layer must be removed, used on the beds, in landscape design or take it off site. The resulting layout is called by professionals a "trough", in which further paving operations are carried out.
Important! The roots of adult bushes and trees are dangerous for paving slabs, so they are either uprooted or routes for pedestrian traffic are laid at a distance of 3 m from them.
Drainage and bedding
TP should be laid on a rigid base with drainage properties, since part of the storm drains is discharged through the gaps between the tiles. However, natural drainage is not enough to handle all the water in heavy rain and divert runoff. roof drain when walking a path near the house or lining the blind area with this material. Therefore, several conditions must be met:
If an arable layer of more than 40 cm is removed and a TP 6–8 cm thick is chosen for cladding, the thickness of the underlying layer increases sharply so that the paths rise slightly above the soil adjacent to them. To save the budget in this case, you can use in lower level the underlying layer is cheaper materials than crushed stone, river sand - sandy loam or loam. They also need to be compacted with a vibrating plate to a similar surface condition.
The curbs (curb stone) are much higher than the tiles (20 cm), therefore, along the paving contour, it is necessary to make a trench of the same width with a depth of 25–30 cm in order to place the curb on the mortar layer.
Trench for curb
Important! In places where storm drains pass, another trench will be required, since the height of these elements varies between 13 - 41 cm, depending on the design and material.
Installation of curb stone
Without curbs, the sidewalks will lose their shape, as the tiles on the sides will “creep”. The curb stone must be laid along the cord, taking into account the longitudinal and perpendicular slopes of the areas to be decorated, on a cement-sand mortar. The ratio of ingredients is 1/4 (cement / sand, respectively. The technology has the form:
- a mortar is laid in a trench with a trowel;
- the curb is installed on it and upset with a mallet along the cord;
- outside and inside in 2 - 3 places, the mortar is laid in a slide on the side surfaces of the curb just below the sand layer on which the tile will be mounted, as in the photo below.
Paving is possible in a day or two, after hardening with cement stone.
Advice! Regardless of the size of the storm trays, it is better to mount them along the curbs along with them at the same stage. These elements are also installed on a solution that takes time to harden.
paving tiles
There are methods for laying TP on a cement-sand mortar (for operation in harsh conditions), a dry mix (1/5 cement, sand, respectively) and on clean river sand. Practice has proven that when cement is added to a dry mix, the developer does not receive any additional benefits, but the maintainability of the coating decreases sharply and the finishing budget increases. Therefore, in 80% of cases, paving slabs are mounted on dry sand using the following technology:
Advice! Installing a curb stone at the ends of the tracks is not always possible. To prevent the spreading of paving elements in such a site, the last two rows are mounted on a cement-sand mortar.
Methods for adjoining TP to the ground and screeds.
The nuances of laying paving slabs
Problems with paving usually arise when making curved sections. The simplest option on radius paths is to lay rectangular elements, as in the bottom photo:
- the tile is oriented with the long side in the direction of travel;
- work starts from a smaller radius;
- each element is displaced relative to its neighbor;
- transverse and vertical seams are arranged in a wedge.
Rectangular TP on corners.
If the developer has chosen a collection of tiles with a complex configuration (for example, "clover"), the paving technique changes dramatically:
- the seams are displaced at 45 - 60 degrees along the length of the winding section;
- the surface is filled with solid elements;
- pieces are stacked near the curbs.
The Luch technology is less commonly used, when a rectangular format TP is oriented perpendicular to the curbs.
At complex radius intersections and large areas, the direction of the seams can change to increase the artistic value of the composition.
Decorating a complex radius intersection.
Thus, it is easiest and cheapest to pave paths, recreation areas and parking lots on the sand with cast or vibropressed paving slabs along straight routes. On radius sections, the above recommendations should be taken into account. For problematic soils, a rigid concrete sub-base should be made.
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Paving slabs are a product that is actively used today for flooring in a gazebo, on a porch or in other areas. The main advantage of tiles is their durability. But this criterion is particularly influenced by the observance of technology during the arrangement of the base and the quality of laying work.
Consider what is better to lay paving slabs. This article will only touch on technical issues.
Laying methods
Paving slabs can be laid out in three ways:
- on the sand;
- on concrete;
- on the ground.
How to lay tiles on a concrete base is detailed.
On concrete
This method is advisable to use in the case when the site on which the laying will be carried out already has a concrete base. It should simply be cleaned of dust and dirt, moistened and applied with a layer of solution. After these works, paving slabs are laid. The laying technology is similar to the principle with a sand cushion.
On the sand
Dry laying occurs when the owner plans to make changes to the building project in the future. In addition, this method is actively used by those who do not want to mess with cement mortar. Dry laying is a great solution for chaotic or random pavement patterns, with space between products.
On earthen ground
This laying option, like on the ground, was widely known during the design summer cottages, as well as in the courtyard of a private house when laying tiles in the country and this is naturally the easiest. In this case, a large tile is used that imitates natural stone. Tiles are laid in prepared pits (preparation is required), and then with the help of wooden hammer the tamping process is underway. The space between the tiles and the edges of the pits is eliminated with soil.
Mortar laying technology
In this way, you can lay most of the types of products. The process of laying on a concrete base begins with preparatory measures.
The technology for laying polymer sand paving slabs is described.
Action plan:
- Marking the area on which the track will be located.
- Remove from marked area upper layer soil.
- Make a recess of 3-4 cm.
- Tamp the bottom of the pit and cover it with crushed stone, the layer thickness of which is 10–20 cm, tamp again.
- Install borders.
Before preparing the solution, it is necessary to lay paving slabs on a layer of sand. You need to lay it out in the order in which it will have to be operated.
To obtain a concrete solution, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:
- cement grade 500;
- quarry crushed stone of fraction 10-20, 20-50;
- paving slabs 50-60 mm thick;
- corresponding to the established ;
- sand;
- water;
- vessel;
- shovel or electric drill.
For cooking in the appropriate, you need to take cement and add to it right amount water. Using an electric drill, mix everything and add 4 parts of sand. Mix everything again and the solution is ready.
Laying process:
- Remove 4 tiles from the sand and apply mortar to this place.
- Reinstall the product. Do the same with the rest of the tiles.
- This must be done until the entire sidewalk is laid out.
- It is imperative that there is space between the tiles. And this can be achieved if you install special wooden struts.
Screening laying technology
How to lay tiles on screenings? This installation method is the most economical. At the same time, this will not affect the quality of the final coverage in any way. 
The laying process and technique is carried out according to the following plan and subject to a specific rule:
- Mark the place and plan the flow of water. Such activities are necessary in order to finished plot no water accumulated. To effectively remove water, you need to make a slope of 1-2%. You may also be interested in .
- Remove the top layer of soil. The depth of the removed layer depends on the intensity of use of the coating. As a rule, it is in the range of 15–50 cm. If the soil is weak, then it can be further compacted. Pour screenings over the dug hole. If you want to do quality foundation, then the minimum number of its layers should be equal to 3.
- Pour crushed stone and tamp well. Its thickness can be 5–10 cm, since the crushed stone sits down during tamping, so make a margin of 10–15%. spread out screenings up to 7 cm thick. Tamp well.
- Lay down again, but adding cement to it in a ratio of 1: 4. tamping field, make sure that this layer is 5 cm higher than the desired level of the tile.
- . This process can be performed using a cord, the tension of which is carried out at the required height. The process of installing the side edging takes place on a concrete base, the width of which is 20 cm, and the height of the concrete castle is 15 cm.
- Material laying. During the process, you need to clearly follow the pattern. With special care it is necessary to lay out the first row. Tile installation must be tight. If irregularities are formed, but they must be eliminated. The quality of the work performed can be checked using a marking thread when making roundings, pay attention to the fact that on the outside the width of the gaps has minimum dimensions and did not exceed 8 mm. To cut tiles, you can use circular saw or Bulgarian. For these purposes, a diamond disc is used.
- Surface grouting. When the surface is laid out, it is necessary to fill it with river sand. Then, using a mop with a hard bristle, grout. For these purposes, you can also buy special formulations but their cost is high.
- Tamp the surface. At the end of all work, it is advisable to take a vibrating plate (vibrating machine) and with the help of rubber gasket and seal the entire surface. If there is no such tool, then there is nothing to worry about, since such an operation is not mandatory. Just so the tile will be firmly and securely fixed.
A vibrating plate is a tool necessary for compacting and leveling a mixture of concrete when laying paving slabs. The design of the equipment assumes the presence of a metal beam and a vibrator of the IV series.
How to lubricate molds for paving slabs read.
On the video: how to properly lay paving slabs on screenings (instructions):
Laying granite paving slabs
Granite paving slabs are a building material that is actively used when laying areas. But today I actively use it for other purposes. The main advantages of granite tiles are high strength and reliability.
The order of work / in stages:
- Perform area marking.
- Lay the base in the form of geotextiles. Why geotextiles are laid under paving slabs will tell.
- Lay a layer of crushed stone on top of the base, the thickness of which is 15–25 cm (preparation of the base)
- Using a rake, form the required slope.
- Tamp the laid out layers.
- Using sand and geotextiles in the process, perform a secondary foundation device.
- Treat the second layer with water and install the side edging around the perimeter. For the base, you can use lean concrete. Fixing the edging is carried out using a cement-sand mortar.
- When all preparations completed, you can proceed to laying granite paving slabs. So that at the time of operation the tiles do not fall out, the gaps between the products must be eliminated with sand.
- Each laid row must be compacted using a rubber mallet.
- Upon completion of work finished surface treat with a gentle stream of water.
On the video - laying granite paving slabs
Laying tiles in various weather conditions
remains today topical issue about whether it is possible to lay paving slabs in the rain? No one can forbid this, because before laying even the sand is slightly moistened by the craftsmen with water. If you want to get a high-quality coating, then you need to do all the work in dry and warm weather.
Do not install during rain, which immediately begins to freeze slightly. Otherwise, in the spring you will have to do all the work again. The reason is that frozen water expands. Therefore, when the tile is level and everything is fine, but after the frost it will be warm, the water will melt, reduce its volume, and the tile will shrink.
How is the laying of material in the gazebo, on the porch
Today, many owners use paving slabs to lay out the floor in the gazebo or on the porch. It is very easy to carry out this procedure.
First you need to stock up on the following materials and equipment:
- quarry sand;
- fine gravel;
- cement grade 500;
- paving slabs;
- rubber mallet.
The action plan is the following:
- Remove the top layer of soil, its depth should not be less than 20 cm.
- Lay a layer of sand and gravel. The thickness of each layer should be 3 cm. Thoroughly compact everything and pour out a layer of sand with cement.
- The last two layers can be replaced by a conventional mortar, for the preparation of which sand, cement and water are used. The layout of the solution should not be carried out immediately, as the material is laid.
- You can level the laid tile surface with a rubber or wooden mallet. If you use any other tool, it will damage the product. The main difficulties that arise during this process depend on the shape of the selected product. Not everyone can do this job. As a rule, the laying of all material is carried out according to the principle of assembling puzzles. All the same can be done with a large slab 300x300x30
What is a plastic tile for paths in the country you will find out.
On the video - a video lesson: laying paving slabs yourself and with your own hands (crisis option):
Cost of work
If you decide to use the services of an experienced specialist, then you need to know the price / rates for laying 1 m2. the cost may vary, as it depends on the chosen method of laying (how much the work of laying paving slabs costs must be found out in advance
- Laying turnkey tiles on a concrete base per square meter - 2100 rubles, on crushed stone - 1650 rubles.
Pay attention to paving slabs. This material proved to be excellent, it is strong, durable, beautiful. Now there are many types of paving slabs and everyone will be able to choose the right one for the facade of the house or just like it. Laying paving slabs with your own hands may seem like a very difficult and troublesome task, but in fact everything is extremely simple. Paths in the garden can be paved with paving slabs over the weekend, and it takes about two weeks and a helper to cover a large yard.
Before proceeding with laying, you need to understand the main types of paving slabs. The main types of paving slabs are stamped and vibrocast. It is better to stop your choice on vibrocast paving slabs, which are a little great cost more than pays for the beautiful appearance and durability.
The thickness of paving slabs may vary. Usually the thickness of paving slabs varies between 20-60 mm. 20mm paving slabs are suitable for garden paths or areas that are guaranteed not to be driven by cars. In the yard, paving slabs with a thickness of 40-45 mm are most often laid. 60 mm tiles are laid where multi-ton trucks will drive.
The pattern of the tile can be anything, but it is not recommended for beginners to take on the laying of tiles such as "rhombus", "brick" and "paving stones". It is more difficult to lay such a tile, the masters ask more for working with it.
The color of the tile can also be almost any, but it is worth considering that colored tiles more expensive than grey.
This article discusses the technology of laying paving slabs with your own hands.
Materials and tools for laying paving slabs
- Sand. You will need quite a lot of sand (several tons), its amount depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe yard, as well as landscape features.
- Paving slabs (the quantity is calculated by the manufacturer by quadrature).
- Border
- Cement
- Strong elastic thread
- metal pegs
- Hammer
- rubber mallet
- Shovel
- long rule
- Two steel pipes about an inch in diameter
- Rammer
- Wheelbarrow
- Level
- Master OK
- Buckets
- Broom
- Bulgarian with diamond disc for cutting concrete
- knee pads
Laying paving slabs with your own hands
Decide on the slope of the site. A slope of several degrees must be present, otherwise, after rain, the water will stand in the yard. The slope is best done towards the street. If you decide to follow this advice, then the street level is taken as the zero point.
Drive two metal pegs into the ground along the zero line (the line to which the site will be inclined) and pull a thread between them. Check the levelness with a level. It is better to apply the level to the thread from below.
Tie another thread to one of the pegs and pull it perpendicular to the first. Tie the free end of the thread to a new peg and drive it into the ground so that the other end is slightly above the zero line. This can be controlled using a level (the angle of inclination should be a few degrees).
Tie another thread to the last hammered peg at the same level as the previous one and pull it parallel to the zero line, check the horizontal position with the level. Tie the free end to the fourth peg.
Connect the first and last pegs with a thread. As a result, you will get a rectangle marked with threads and lying in the plane of the future site with laid paving slabs.
Now we need to divide our surface into stripes. The width of the stripes is selected based on the length of your rule (the strip should be several tens of centimeters narrower than the rule). Set aside the selected distance from the zero line and drive a peg into the ground. Do the same with opposite side. Connect the pegs with a thread, equalizing its height along the sides of the rectangle, perpendicular to the zero line. In the same way, divide the entire area into strips.
Now you need to align the site with respect to the markup. Where the thread is too close to the ground, the soil must be removed, and where the pits are too large, add. The gap between the soil and the threads should be approximately two tile thicknesses. All this is done by eye, no special precision is required.
The soil, especially where it was poured, must be carefully compacted. For this, a rammer is used. In our case, the rammer was made independently from a paw from a crane with a welded handle.
When the site is leveled, you can start laying paving slabs.
Prepare the sand-cement mixture. To do this, pour a bunch of sand right on the ground, gradually mixing cement there in a ratio of about 6 to 1. It is desirable that the sand be wet, so it is better to lay paving slabs in spring or autumn, when it is not very hot and rather damp.
Distribute the prepared mixture evenly over one of the strips.
Tamp thoroughly.
Under the threads marking the borders of the strip, lay the steel pipes. The gap between the pipe and the thread should be approximately one centimeter less than the thickness of the tile. The pipes must be strictly parallel to the threads and be at the same height.
Put on shoes and pants that you don't mind ruining, don't forget about knee pads. Kneel between the threads, pass the rule under them and draw along the surface of the pipes. You will see where you need to add the cement-sand mixture.
Pour the right amount of cement-sand mixture. Start tamping it with your hands while stretching out the rule. You will have a flat strip, ready for laying. You can pick up some cement-sand mixture and sprinkle over the leveled area.
Prepare and carefully inspect the tiles, lay them in piles near the prepared area. The tile is basically all flat, but there are also defects. Some tiles can be convex (tortoise), concave (plate) and curved (propeller). It is better not to use such a tile and put it aside as a last resort.
Lay one tile, carefully leveling it along the marking axes.
Tap the tile with a rubber mallet, sinking it into the ground to the marking level.
Do the same with the next tile. The sequence of laying tiles is selected depending on the tile pattern.
Start laying paving slabs away from you. So, gradually moving forward, you will walk on a newly laid tile.
Prepare the base in the same way and lay next lane paving slabs.
If there are any obstacles on the way (in our case, a gas pipe and a sewer manhole), they need to be bypassed with whole tiles. The final trimming and fitting is best done at the end.
Tiles need to be swept after every working day. When laying between the tiles, gaps are formed that need to be filled. It is the process of filling the gaps that is called sweeping. For sweeping, we need dry sand and cement. They need to be mixed in a ratio of 1 to 6. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the tile, and then brush it several times with a broom, filling the cracks.
Attention: sometimes when using a sand-cement mixture for sweeping, there may be residue on colored tiles white coating from cement. This may be due to the quality of the tile, or the peculiarities of its production. Conscientious tile manufacturers in such cases are advised to sweep with clean sand. If in doubt, you can refuse to use a mixture of sand and cement, use only sand.
It is unlikely that your site will be perfectly rectangular, so you will not be able to do without pruning. Where to cut is determined locally. Trimming tiles is done using a grinder with a diamond disc for concrete.
If you want to make flower beds, mark them out with threads or chisels. Saw off the excess tile protruding beyond the borders of the flower beds.
Flowerbeds and edges of the site with laid tiles should be framed with a border. To do this, dig a trench along the edge with a trowel or a small spatula. The depth of the trench is selected based on the depth of the curb.
Install the curb sections and secure them to the screed with a thick mortar.
Near the curbs you will have cells where you need to lay the trimmed tiles. The soil in these places must be especially carefully compacted, as it could crumble when digging a trench.
Trim the rest of the tiles needed to fill in the gaps left by avoiding obstacles.
Where the tile comes close to the gate, it is better to lay it not on cement-sand mixture, but on the solution, since in this place the load on the tile will be maximum.
This article discusses the process of laying tiles in the yard, but in the case of garden paths and a blind area, everything is much simpler and does not require such careful preparation.
How to lay paving slabs correctly: photo, video, instructions. This article outlines a technology that describes how to lay paving slabs at the curb installation stage, discusses various options their installations. You will learn what types of borders exist, get acquainted with the selection rules quality materials, consider technical and performance characteristics each of them. Get acquainted with the prices for the purchase of materials and turnkey paving services.
The process of laying paving slabs is never complete without a curb
Making paths with curbs and paving slabs: how to lay the coating correctly
Arrangement of a personal plot is not complete without the formation of paths. These elements perform several useful functions at once.
On suburban areas tile flooring is used for:
- preservation of the grassy covering of lawns (paths allow you to move around the site without trampling the grass);
- visual division of the area of the site into zones (with the help of them you can arrange a recreation area, a blind area around the house, the space around flower beds, pools, greenhouses, gazebos and sheds, etc.);
- decorating the site and maintaining the overall design of the backyard territory and the house itself.
Paving slabs at the entrance to a country house
Note! The cost of laying paving slabs includes not only the purchase of material and the paving itself, but also the installation of curbs, if they are to be installed. In order to save money, you can do this work yourself, the main thing is to adhere to the technology.
Classification of curbs for paving slabs: how to install the right option
Borders have a beautiful appearance, they are durable and practical, so they are often installed before laying paving slabs on sand and other types of surfaces. These elements are able to fit into any architectural solution of your yard, give a complete look to the entire site.
Borders act as lawn protection, as well as tile coverage from erosion. They are able to increase the service life of the tracks.
Garden borders - for beauty and order in your garden
The general classification of borders by type of material of manufacture includes the following varieties:
- metal;
- plastic;
- concrete;
- brick;
- wooden (rarely used);
- from natural stone.
Laying curbs for paving slabs is also used to indicate the difference in height between the level of the lawn and the surface of the path. To do right choice curb, should be studied in detail specifications the most common types of material.
Existing varieties of concrete curbs are also classified according to manufacturing technology, among them are:
- concrete curbs;
- vibrocast curbs;
- sidewalk curbs.
Concrete curbs are usually installed on roads with minimal horizontal load.
Each of them is able to offer certain advantages and technical characteristics that will be useful to the owners of suburban areas when laying paving slabs on a dry mix. The technology involves paving on a sand or concrete base.
Features of installing curbs for paving slabs made of concrete
The factory-made concrete curb is in high demand among the owners of suburban areas. Most often it is used in the method of laying paving slabs on a concrete base, since this type of product has a long service life and is characterized by a simple installation system.
Helpful advice! Factory-made concrete curbs have an extensive range of colors. Use this advantage when decorating garden paths and alleys. With the help of a colored curb, you can create unique design pedestrian areas.
Technical characteristics of concrete curbs:
- the level of water absorption is 6%;
- high compressive strength - 22.5 MPa;
- the material is quite easy to process (if necessary, cutting a concrete border can be sawn);
- high level frost resistance.
Concrete borders for flower beds competently combine practicality and aesthetics.
Thanks to all these characteristics, the installation of curbs for paving slabs with your own hands will be of high quality and reliable. An extensive range of products allows you to go beyond strict limits in terms of design.
If you decide to use paving services in specialized company, how much paving slabs cost will be affected by the size and type of curbs. Especially if the purchase of materials is carried out by the company itself.
Concrete curb for paving slabs: product price
To save on the cost of laying paving slabs ordered from a specialized company, you can purchase all Consumables on one's own.
Average prices for the purchase of concrete curbs:
| Product type (purpose) | Color | Dimensional parameters, (width/length/height), cm | Price, rub./m² |
| road curb | White | 15x100x30 | 345 |
| Grey | 15x100x30 | 274 | |
| Color Mix | 8x100x20 | 163 | |
| pavement curb | White | 8x100x20 | 163 |
| Wine | 8x100x20 | 163 | |
| Grey | 8x100x20 | 140 | |
| Drainage tray | Brown | 20x50x6 | 364 |
| Gray (asphalt) | 50x100x180/230 | 876 | |
| Grey | 20x50x6 | 274 |
Helpful advice! Include the road curbs indicated in the table in the technology of laying paving slabs under the car. These products will keep your site safe by restricting vehicle movement.
Vibrating curbs on a suburban area
Vibrocast products are distinguished by an increased wear resistance. During the production of such borders, coloring pigments and plasticizers are added to the raw materials.
Curbs for roads and private areas
Manufacturers produce products various forms. In addition to standard rectangles, buyers can purchase borders of the following shapes:
- step;
- arc;
- wave etc. .
Clinker bricks are often used as sidewalk curbs. This type of material has a high strength, long service life, while it is completely environmentally friendly.
On the other hand, if you are thinking about how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands, use clinker bricks should be avoided at work. The point is that the blocks big sizes, due to which large gaps appear between the blanks during the installation process, through which grass and other plants subsequently grow. Their presence negatively affects the condition of the coating.
Flower bed with clinker brick borders
If you want to buy curbs for paving slabs, the price of vibrocast products depends on the size and color.
Average prices for vibrocast curbs:
Metal, brick and flexible curbs for paving slabs
Plastic curbs for paving slabs are universal products. They are in harmony with various styles in the design of personal plots, and thanks to great choice colors allow you to make the design of the tracks unique.
Helpful advice! Plastic borders have a flexible structure. Use this material property to design curved paths with smooth lines.
In addition to durability and corrosion resistance, plastic products are also characterized by an affordable price. They are best suited for do-it-yourself pavement installation.
Installation garden border plastic
For borders made on the basis of metal, various raw materials are used:
- stainless steel;
- aluminum;
- copper.
Metal curbs are used for arranging flat paths with straight turns. They are used not only for organizing paving slabs, but also combined with paths made of crushed stone.
Brick borders are no less common than other types of products of a similar purpose. There are several technologies that describe how to lay paving slabs in a brick-lined yard. In one case, the stacking of blanks can be carried out in horizontal position, in the other - the brick is placed under a diagonal slope. The result is a beautiful jagged framing of the track.
The use of red brick in the design of garden paths
This type of material goes well with paving stones, especially if your design is adjoining territory made in English style. It is worth noting that it is not recommended to install bricks as a curb in areas where frequent and heavy rains are observed, a high level of precipitation falls. Under the influence of a large amount of moisture, this material is very quickly destroyed.
How to lay paving slabs using a curb: the right choice of materials
The scope of sidewalk curbs extends to pedestrian areas, sidewalks along the carriageway, as well as paths in the private sector. Owners of suburban areas use this type building material as budget decision for decoration of the yard and other areas.
Helpful advice! Sidewalk curbs are usually combined with tiles or paving stones. In this regard, many manufacturers began to add coloring pigments to the raw materials in production. You can successfully beat the coating using contrasting colors.
Paving slabs can serve for a very long time, provided proper styling
If we compare the sidewalk version of products with other types of curbs, we can distinguish whole line advantages:
- high level of wear resistance;
- strength and reliability;
- resistance to sudden temperature changes;
- almost perfect surface finish;
- resistance to moisture;
- invulnerability to the influence of chemicals (even the use of icing reagents is allowed);
- wide range of colors;
- there is no need to carry out additional external finishing.
As part of the classification, one-sided and two-sided sidewalk curbs are distinguished. The first of them are used for paved areas, as well as sidewalks made in longline technology. The latter are good if the paths are on the same level as the lawn, in this case the curb acts as a separator.
Paving stones are easy to lay, so they are used for landscaping paths of any type.
The size of the borders for paving slabs
Modern range construction market offers many variations of borders in terms of size. Thanks to this, each consumer can find products that meet his requirements.
Classification of borders by size:
- curbs - the size range includes products with the following parameters: 8x21x50, 5x20x100, 4.5x21x50 cm;
- park blocks - dimensions products are 7x21.1x50 cm;
- border for pavement- correspond to the size of 20x60x300 cm.
Factory-made sidewalk curbs usually match standard sizes- 8x20 or 5x20 cm. Rectangular products have a wider size range, including small borders with parameters of 0.6x2x5 cm, as well as large ones - 8x20x100 cm.
Helpful advice! On the network you can find a video on how to properly lay paving slabs in combination with various types curbs. Use such visual materials to avoid mistakes in the paving process.
Types of borders for paving slabs
If it is planned to organize walking paths, it is recommended to use curbs whose height is 30 cm and the width is not more than 20 cm. The alleys are fenced with lighter versions of products with parameters of 8x20 cm.
The quality of curbs for paving slabs: how to install the material correctly
Recommendations on how to lay paving slabs in the yard yourself are limited not only by the technology itself, but also by advice on the choice of materials. The quality of the borders, like the tiles themselves, has a direct impact on the final result, so the material selection process is extremely important.
The procurement process should be guided by several criteria:
- Technical characteristics - this includes the type of border, its structure and dimensional parameters, as well as shape features.
- Indicators reflecting the level of strength of products.
- Service life of curbs.
- Prices for laying paving slabs without a curb and with a curb (if the use of specialist services is expected).
- Resistance to temperature extremes, as well as to the effects of environmental factors.
- The quality of the coloring of the blanks (how evenly the surface of the border is colored).
- Features of the object for laying tiles (type of path or platform, area, shape and slope of the surface).
Installation of curbs
Before purchasing material, decide what is better to lay paving slabs on and what kind of base you can provide them on your site. The type of material that will need to be purchased directly depends on this. The most common type of base for paving is soil, with a pre-formed cushion of sand, crushed stone or concrete.
Note! Many people wonder if it is possible to lay paving slabs on asphalt, having at their disposal an old asphalt coating in the yard. In fact, it is possible, but for this you will have to carry out a number of preparatory work to ensure the quality of the coating.
Laying paving slabs: prices for professional services
After purchasing the material, it is worth deciding whether you will do all the paving work yourself or hire specialists for this. In each case, you get certain benefits.
Laying paving stones
On the one hand, independent work guarantees significant savings. Money. On the other hand, professional service is a guarantee of a high-quality and reliable result, of course, if you find really skilled and qualified specialists.
How much does laying paving slabs cost (average prices):
How to lay paving slabs with your own hands: work on installing curbs
Everyone can handle the laying of plastic borders. This does not require serious preparatory work. Before laying a curb for paving slabs made of plastic, you do not need to dig a special trench, form a concrete base or lay geotextiles.
First you need to outline the contour part of the track and the height of the curb itself. Most manufacturers produce products that have holes on the outside for attaching anchors or marking pegs. Thanks to this fastening, fixing the curb on the ground is strong and reliable. For work, you will only need a hammer to hammer metal pegs.
Note! The edges of the plastic are very easy to join, and the products themselves bend well. You can make a path or a platform of the most bizarre shape, without fear that the ends of the curbs will not converge, and the framing will turn out to be sloppy.
Installation of paving slabs with curbs
How to lay curbs for paving slabs made of concrete and natural stone
The use of concrete curbs suggests that the pavement will be subjected to significant loads. For this reason, the strength of fixation when organizing the track is in the first place.
On initial stage to carry out work, it is necessary to dig a trench, placing it along the contour part of the object. The depth depends on how high the curb is and how much it should rise above the coating itself in the end.
After that, the trench should be filled concrete mortar. The proportions for preparing a mixture of cement and sand are 1: 3, respectively. The pour is leveled and concrete curbs are installed. This must be done as carefully as possible, placing the stones as close as possible to the edge of the path. Do not make the mixture too liquid, in this composition the elements will blur and fixation will become impossible.
Pouring a concrete curb
When several curbs have already been installed, it is necessary to additionally fix the first, and then all subsequent stones in the order of installation order with the help of an additional layer of cement in several places. The ideal protrusion height is 50 mm.
After the mortar sets and hardens, the trench is sprinkled with sand or earth from the outside. This will allow you to keep the structure in its original form for a long time and increase its service life.
If you decide to make borders from natural stone, digging a trench is not required. It is enough just to remove a thin layer of soil to make a geotextile flooring. Then, large stones are placed on this litter as closely as possible to each other. Finally, all remaining voids are filled with dry cement.
Note! If between the stones formed big gaps, they need to be filled with small pebbles before falling asleep with cement.
Paving slabs - a material that can transform any area
Despite the fact that the work seems very simple, you should be responsible for its implementation, since the durability of the tile coating depends on the quality of the base.
After the curbs are installed and securely fixed, we lay down paving slabs with our own hands, video material with technology will help you figure it out.
- for reliability, fix the first row of tiles with cement mortar along the edge. Due to this, the coating will not move;
Installation of curbs, preparation of the base for paving and laying tiles on cement mortar
- start paving from the curb;
- when sinking blanks into the base (if placed on sand), keep the same depth, be guided by the level;
- the maximum gap is 5 mm. It's not worth doing anymore. Laying tiles without gaps is not recommended;
- use a grinder to cut the material;
Preparation of the base for laying subsequent rows of tiles
- use only clean sand to fill the joints. Leave it on for a few days for perfect filling;
- the optimal proportions for preparing a mixture of sand and cement are 1:10. In waste disposal areas and other wet places to fill the seams, it is better to take proportions of 1: 3;
- do not load the track until all joints are processed.
Paving tiles and grouting grout
Don't forget that paved sidewalks and playgrounds need maintenance. Clean the surface from time to time. Moreover, colored tiles require more attention in this regard than gray ones. IN winter time for clearing ice and snow, use wooden and plastic tools, metal ones can damage the coating. It is not necessary to perform staining, this procedure will reduce the quality of the coating and its durability.
