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How to make the floor in the sauna. The floor in the bath - different options for arranging a quality foundation. The composition and design features of the floor

The floor in the bath performs a number of functions that distinguish it from the coating in living rooms. It not only provides free movement with constant moisture, but is also part of the sewer system. Therefore, before installing such a floor, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the features of its installation.

Peculiarities

Before choosing a floor for a bath, you need to consider some of the nuances. The first thing to consider is the season in which the premises will be used. If the bath is to be used all year round, then showers, a dressing room, an additional steam room and rest rooms are usually placed in it. In such a bath, a capital floor is installed: an insulated coating with ventilation and drainage. It is enough to make the floor in the summer sauna leaky.

Installation of a leaking floor is carried out by laying boards measuring 1.5 meters by 50 millimeters. The boards are laid on top of the logs - bars with a diameter of about 150 mm. When installing a log, it is necessary to take into account the type of base. For example, for a columnar foundation, logs must be supported on a mortgage beam. The logs are laid sequentially, starting from the shortest wall, the bars are placed at a distance of about 60 cm. The points of contact between the log and the foundation are processed bituminous mastic or roofing felt to provide insulation.

Next, the subfloor is installed - a layer of soil is laid on top of the boards. The material and its quantity are selected based on the type of base soil. If the soil absorbs water well, then the subfloor is covered with a layer of rubble about 25 centimeters thick. Clay soils that swell when wet and do not conduct moisture well should be covered with a material that provides water runoff. After laying the floor boards, leaving a distance of 2 cm around the entire perimeter.

There should also be a small gap between the floorboards. The boards are fixed to the beams with nails. To provide protection against dampness and prevent the development of fungus, the coating is treated with drying oil.

A leaking floor is also called "cold" because its temperature is always low. The disadvantages of such a coating are that it is recommended to install it only in regions with a mild warm climate. Premises with such a floor are almost impossible to use in the cold season, because it cannot be insulated. However, there is an option to install the stove below the floor level. This design allows you to warm up the boards and better protect them from decay.

The process of creating a non-leaking floor is technologically more complex and resource-intensive. Before laying the log, it is necessary to install a subfloor. Next, the wooden flooring is covered with layers of waterproofing coating. To reduce heat leakage from the premises, the floor must be protected with mineral wool or fiberglass insulation boards. So that natural heaters do not lose their properties under the influence of water, a moisture-resistant coating is laid on top.

The rough floor is poured with a layer of bitumen and prepared for the installation of floorboards. The technology of laying boards depends on the purpose of the room. The floorboards in the steam room should look in the direction of the falling beam of light. In the dressing room flooring lay in the direction of travel. It is important not to forget to leave a space of at least one centimeter along the contour of the room. This distance provides ventilation.

A Russian bath with a heated floor resembles a pie in terms of the drainage system. The boards are placed at a slight slope, which ensures the flow of liquid into the built-in collector. Further, moisture flows through the pipes and is removed outside the extension. The advantages of a warm floor are that the coating is additionally protected from the cold, the moisture removal system allows you to increase the shelf life of the boards.

What coverage to choose?

In the room of a classic Russian bath, high humidity, and the temperature can reach 65 degrees. Under such conditions, the probability of floor rotting, especially wood flooring, is high. It is important to understand that each bath room has different operating conditions and the coating material and operating technology can vary significantly in each room. In addition to individual characteristics, the floor must have some general physical and mechanical characteristics.

The coating must be resistant to critical temperature differences: from above, the floor interacts with hot water, and from below, cold soil acts on it. Also, the flooring must withstand both mechanical stress and contact with chemical reagents of detergents. A mandatory characteristic of the coating is resistance to constant interaction with moisture and saturated water vapor. It is important to remember that the floorboards must be anti-slip and low maintenance. In addition to the above mechanical properties, the floor in the bath should look aesthetically pleasing.

The classic flooring is wooden flooring. This method of laying the floor in the bath is still used today. This is not only a tribute to tradition - wood has a high heat capacity and a beautiful appearance. A significant drawback of the boards is low moisture resistance: the coating is subject to decay and requires additional protection. Before deciding on the installation of a wooden floor, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of each tree species. For example, oak becomes too slippery when exposed to moisture.

Concrete flooring is no less popular than the plank counterpart. The cement screed has a high mechanical strength, which ensures a long service life. It is important to understand that it is necessary to lay the finish coat on the concrete base. Masters advise using tiled masonry. Ceramics is easy to install and use. A significant disadvantage of the concrete floor is the need for thermal insulation. Also, such a floor must be laid at a slope to ensure the drainage of water.

In the construction of baths, more and more preference is given to laying stone and tiled floors. Ceramics perfectly imitates natural stone and has a relatively low cost. In addition, this coating is durable and water resistant. An important point - the joints between ceramic fragments require additional processing to protect against moisture and prevent the formation of fungus.

For right choice flooring must take into account all the operational features of the selected room. In the steam room, you can lay floors made of concrete, stone or ceramics - these materials can withstand extreme conditions. Coatings containing formaldehyde must not be used. Under the influence of water and high temperature, such materials release toxic substances.

If there is a desire to decorate the floor with paint or varnish, then some restrictions must be taken into account. The safest way to decorate a wooden coating is to use a water-based or dispersion acrylic paint. It is strictly forbidden to use in the steam room oil paint or alkyd composition.

The requirements for the floor in the washing room are not as high as for the surface in the steam room. However, the poured coating must withstand prolonged contact with water and detergents. Floors must also withstand critical temperature fluctuations. Ceramics fully satisfies these requirements. Wood is also actively used in washing, but it must be treated with a special impregnation or varnished.

The floor in the dressing room practically does not come into contact with water and steam, so there is no need to increase its water resistance. There is a firebox in the dressing room, so the floor covering must be protected from fire and overheating. As a rule, boards are laid here. A metal plate measuring 60 by 90 centimeters is mounted in front of the firebox. This device is necessary to protect the floor from falling sparks and fire.

In the rest room, you can lay carpet or linoleum. The floors in this room should be comfortable and cozy. The main requirement for such a coating is that it must retain heat well. Since rest rooms do not come into contact with moisture and cannot withstand temperature changes, they do not require additional protection. They can also be placed on the floor or shelves to place the legs, which will add comfort.

Necessary tools and accessories

In order to obtain a high-quality floor with a long service life, it is necessary to follow the laying technique and the technology of preparing materials. The success of installation largely depends on the correct choice of tools. The floor can be installed under the guidance of a specialist or independently.

Some of the tools needed to install a concrete floor in a bath:

• The correct screed cannot be laid without the use of special rakes. These devices level the concrete mass during the laying process. It is important to understand that the coating should be as even as possible: violations in the technique can lead to serious consequences.

• A laser or water level will help to get the surface of the required evenness. With it, you can also vary the angle of the boards. The grooves for draining water must be even: no level difference is allowed along the flow of the liquid. Such moments must be corrected both at the initial stages of installation and during the laying of the slabs.

• Trowels are needed to spread cement over the entire surface from the far corner of the room to the edges. With the help of trowels, impregnation or varnish is also applied when finishing surfaces. Trowels come with both pointed and semicircular edges. The rounded edges of the tool do not leave visible marks on the screed.

• Grater for cement. This device is required for flat surface. It is necessary to make circular movements on the surface of the laid mass. With their help, excess material is also removed and an even coating is obtained.

• Smoothers are also necessary to obtain a flat surface. Due to their design, they are able to cover and smooth a larger area than floats or trowels. Smoothers are used for global work on rolling cement over the entire surface. Among such tools, one can single out corner-type trowels - they are used to obtain a smooth coating at the junction of the floor with the wall.

• In order to qualitatively mix expanded clay or expanded clay concrete, you need a concrete mixer and a container for the solution. The mixing technology depends on its composition and installation method. Before working directly with cement, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the technology and mode of preparation of the mixture. This process can be carried out manually, but there is a risk of obtaining a heterogeneous mass. Incorrectly mixed composition will not provide the desired performance properties of the floor.

• Also, do not forget about simple tools. A shovel will greatly facilitate the process of spreading the concrete mass over the surface. A Velcro towel or any other rag material is needed to clean the tools during work. An even screed will be obtained only when working with cleaned equipment. Also, keep a container of water handy.

A different set of tools is needed to install a wooden floor.

• Metal profile for laying boards. A special grate is mounted from small steel gutters, on which the boards are laid. Such a frame is necessary in order for the sauna floor to be laid evenly and firmly held. Profiles are sold complete with special fasteners.

• An electric screwdriver and a drill are needed to fix the boards. They can be replaced with a metal hammer, but this will require a lot of time and effort. In addition to ordinary screws, brackets are used to fix the planks.

• To obtain bars of the required size, an electric planer and a hacksaw for wood are used. The work of sawing wood is quite dusty, so the craftsmen recommend laying it on the floor working area rug or sheets of newspaper. This will significantly reduce the time of subsequent cleaning.

• In any work on laying the floor, you can not do without a level. The laser device is much easier to operate and helps to achieve an even coating or the desired slope.
• The final wood layer often needs to be varnished or painted. To do this, stock up on rollers and brushes. Also, many materials are sticky and toxic, so all work must be done with gloves.

How to do it yourself?

The device of the flowing floor begins with the installation of lags. It can be wooden beams or metal beams. Before installing the logs, they must be treated with a special antiseptic agent that increases their corrosion resistance. The choice of antiseptics is great, but some prefer to use used engine oil as an analogue. If wood beams are chosen for the lag device, then they must be dried. To do this, the wood is left for some time in a room with a humidity of 10 to 12 percent. To save time, you can buy ready-made wood after drying in the chamber.

Lags are laid parallel from the smallest wall. If the room in the bath is large enough, then it is recommended to create a stiffening frame. To do this, reinforced concrete piles are installed under the logs with a step of no more than one meter.

For proper styling lag has a walkthrough:

• It is necessary to remove the top layer of soil from the installation site. Next, lay out a layer of sand or gravel with a thickness of 10 to 15 centimeters and reinforce the system with a mesh.
• Lay piles of brick or fragments of reinforced concrete slabs. This design will provide the foundation with the necessary bearing capacity.
• The system must be treated with bituminous mastic to protect it from water.

The fixed piles are covered with two layers of waterproofing. Sheets should not be laid too close to the walls. It is necessary to leave a gap of at least 4 cm around the entire perimeter. This will ensure ventilation of the resulting structure.

Next, a water drain system is installed. Moisture must be removed from the foundation. In order to competently equip the drainage system, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the features of the base soil. If the soil absorbs moisture well, then it is necessary to remove a layer of earth from the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath and cover the surface with rubble. On soils with low culvert capacity, you need to dig a hole about 40 cm deep and carry out a moisture removal system into it. A special backfill made of clay ensures a uniform flow of water. Floors with this method must be laid at a slope of 10 degrees towards the water intake.

Underfloor heating boards are processed - they are hewn from the front side and leveled. A gap of two centimeters is left between the masonry and the wall for implementation natural ventilation. Boards are laid at a right angle from the location of the lag. This technology provides the necessary strength of the future floor. Between planks it is necessary to withstand same distance: masters advise using plywood fragments for these purposes.

Warm floors can also be laid on logs. Bars or steel pipes are laid by the previously described step-by-step actions. To obtain a surface slope in the logs, cuts of four millimeters are made. It is not allowed to cut logs adjacent to the walls. The underfloor heating system is excellent. Between two supports they dig a hole with a depth of at least 300 millimeters and with dimensions of 400 by 400 millimeters.

The walls of the resulting pit must be reinforced with concrete and smeared with bitumen. Installation of the drain pipe is carried out at the bottom of the pit with an indent of two centimeters. The drainage pipe must be at least 15 centimeters in diameter. For these purposes, PVC is perfect.

Boards are laid, starting with a draft layer. This is followed by a waterproofing coating, laid out with an overlap. Joints are not greased big amount bituminous mastic or glued with adhesive tape. After fixing the waterproofing, a layer of insulation is laid. In this case, the masters are advised to pay attention to mineral or ecological wool, expanded clay slabs. A more environmentally friendly type of insulation is a mixture of sawdust with PVA.

Between the finishing coating and the insulation, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier. It is also important to leave a gap of at least fifteen millimeters between the layers: an exhaust pipe is passed through the hole. The planks of the final layer should not have crevices in the joints, so builders prefer a tongue and groove board. It is necessary not to forget about the installation of the drain system.

The laying of a concrete screed is carried out in several stages. First concrete layer pour a height of no more than six centimeters and leave not to dry completely. Thermal insulation of standard thickness is laid on a slightly damp layer. To provide the coating with the necessary rigidity, the insulation is covered with a reinforced mesh. The last layer of fill is laid at an angle of 10 to 15 degrees to ensure runoff.

Finishing layer, as a rule, the thickness does not exceed nine centimeters. Further, the surface can be decorated with ceramics or plank masonry. It is important not to forget that the coating must be resistant to temperature extremes and have a given strength. After installing the floor, the walls are polished.

Wood

Plank flooring is perfect for a leaky floor in a steam room. Wood has good technical characteristics and requires relatively little labor. Masters advise completely newbies to stop on the device of a cold floor. There is no need to create an insulated "pie" of the foundation and laying engineering communications. A leaky floor in a steam room requires only simple drainage.

The flooring does not need to be fixed to the joists, as the covering must be regularly detached and dried in the open air. This design helps to keep the material in good condition even with frequent interaction of the floor with hot water. The board requires replacement after 4-6 years after commissioning. If, nevertheless, there is a desire to fix the coating on the logs, then the boards must be carefully treated with an antiseptic. A cold floor made of larch or pine is considered the most optimal price-quality ratio. Oak flooring does not have sufficient roughness and can lead to injury.

The non-leaking wood floor is suitable for year-round use. In the washing department and steam room, such a coating will last up to 10 years, if the rough layer is correctly installed and the laying of insulating materials is not neglected. Boards are not recommended to be painted. The chemical composition can clog the wood pores, which will give the coating a lasting chemical aroma.

Also, the paint does not help protect the boards from rotting. Masters advise leaving the surface clean, but sand well. Natural wood has a pleasant smell, and the aroma of pine needles is considered beneficial to health. In order to protect the coating from decay, special compounds are used. But an important point is the drainage device.

Concrete

Concrete has a long service life, which makes it a leader among the materials for installing the floor in the bath. Properly laid coating can last up to 50 years, does not require special operating conditions. The concrete screed is not prone to decay, because the development of microorganisms is impossible in concrete. Caring for such a floor does not require special measures or the purchase of expensive products.

The screed can be poured and used as a finished floor covering or laid on top of the tile. It is laid on the ground or logs. To strengthen the foundation for underfloor heating, screw piles are often used. On these piles, an insulating “pie” is already installed and a screed is poured. The concrete floor is time and resource intensive because it is a complex multi-layered structure.

Before purchasing, you must familiarize yourself with the composition of the product. Some types contain crushed stone or gravel, so they can cause difficulties in the kneading process. A homogeneous mass will be obtained only with the use of a concrete mixer or a perforator. If there are no such devices, then the masters recommend purchasing a solution on a cement-sand base. This material is much easier to mix and pour.

The consistency and composition of the solution largely depend on the conditions for the further operation of the cement screed. If concrete acts as a subfloor for laying boards, then the mixture does not require special additives. If you want to lay ceramic tiles on the screed, you must add gypsum with an anhydrate admixture to the solution. The concrete floor is not recommended to be used as a rough floor for the installation of a synthetic coating. When interacting with critical temperatures, synthetics release complex chemicals that can be hazardous to health.

Proper waterproofing is essential when installing concrete flooring. The floor is located under a slight slope, and a special pit with a drain is mounted under the base of the foundation. Water moves along the gutter and the ground and is removed outside the bath. Technologically competent installation of this system will protect the foundation from corrosion and allow the cement screed to serve for a long time.

tiled

Ceramics is widely used for laying cold floors. This material is not subject to decomposition under the action of microorganisms and does not require special operating conditions. The tile is resistant to critical temperature changes. The coating is also resistant to moisture, which allows it to be laid everywhere in the bath.

Designers note a wide color palette this material, so they often use it to create decor in the rest room. The tile is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful substances and has no chemical odor. Ceramics are laid directly on the self-leveling concrete floor.

The screed does not always provide a smooth finish and requires additional measures. Surface roughness must be kept to a minimum, as this work requires time and effort. A tile laid on a screed with irregularities will not last long. Water can get into the voids, which will lead to the appearance of fungus between the joints of the mosaic. Gaps between fragments need to be processed special tool both during installation and during operation.

A significant disadvantage of the tile is its high thermal conductivity. In order for the temperature in the steam room not to fall, competent thermal insulation is necessary. Another significant drawback is the injury risk of the varnish coating. It is necessary to purchase tiles with a rough surface so that it does not become slippery when in contact with water. To date, there are many ceramic tiles that imitate a stone coating.

Designers highlight the mosaic, stylized as pebbles. In addition to aesthetics and beauty, this coating has a massage effect. This tile will great solution when decorating a rest room in a marine style. Small stone particles are complemented with cut glass inserts. Sparkling inserts have a beautiful sheen and reflect light in an interesting way.

To increase the service life of the ceramic coating, it is glazed and fired several times. In addition, the masters are advised to give preference to thick tiles. Such material is resistant to temperature fluctuations. You should not buy tiles with a large number of pores - they are less durable. Clinker mosaic or porcelain stoneware cladding should be preferred. Pay close attention to the surface texture: glossy sheen should be avoided.

heated

The heated concrete floor creates a comfortable microclimate. This option is necessary when installing a cold floor, especially in a cool climate zone. Also, the underfloor heating system heats the surface from the inside, drying the material. This system allows you to get rid of dampness and increase the life of the floor covering. It is important to understand that such a heated floor is quite difficult to install for a beginner. The instruction of the master and control of the installation process is required.

Underfloor heating - a system of pipes or cables through which warm liquid moves. Convection provides uniform heating of the floor around the entire perimeter of the room, regardless of the location of the heating device. Pipes experience strong internal pressure, so the surface must be additionally reinforced. The contours themselves are easy to lay, but require reliable attachment to the rough surface. For the device of such heating, pipes without seams and joints should be purchased.

The distance between the contours is called the laying step. It must be maintained during the installation process. Violation of the step leads to uneven heating of the floor. A similar gradient is felt upon contact with the floor. You should also carefully choose the floor covering in the case of underfloor heating. Ceramics tend to heat up quickly, so craftsmen do not recommend using tiles as a finishing layer. Preference should be given to wooden panels.

To date, there are two ways to install a warm floor. water system is carried out by the circulation of the heated liquid from the pump through the pipes. The coolant in this design can be either plain water or special antifreeze compositions. The water system consists of a boiler, a collector and pipes. It is difficult to install, and it is not cheap. However, such a system allows you to reduce heating costs. Water heated floor is often used as additional heating in apartments and houses.

Another way to install a heated floor is electrical system. These "cable" floors are easy to install, but their price is entirely dependent on energy tariffs. The cable converts electricity into heat and heats the surface evenly. To control the heating, temperature sensors are mounted in the floor. It is important to remember that such a system should not be combined with wooden materials, as there is a high probability of wood overheating and a fire.

Installation of each type of heated floor requires the control of the master. The floor is laid on thermal insulation material. Vapor barrier is an equally important layer when installing a warm floor. After laying the contours, the surface is poured with a cement screed.

All pipe joints must be additionally fixed. It is important to remember that after laying the cement layer, it will be impossible to make adjustments. Otherwise, it will be necessary to completely remove the masonry, re-clean the surface and eliminate violations in the installation of the circuits. It is important to lay pipes on a perfectly cleaned surface. After making adjustments, the surface is poured with a new layer of cement mortar.

Before use, the floors are pre-tested and heated in accordance with the instructions. The problems are fixed and the system is checked again. The cycle must be restarted until the required temperature is reached. Only after final testing cement screed level and proceed with the installation of the finishing floor covering. It is important to understand that each joint of the material requires careful processing. A water-heated floor will last a long time if all its features are taken into account during the installation process, for example, steam and waterproofing of the floor.

For the manufacture of high-quality coating masters are advised to listen to some recommendations. The causes of floor failure can be varied, but many can be prevented if the laying technology is not violated. The choice of quality material also plays an important role.

When installing the log, it is important to install waterproofing between the pillars. Such a coating will protect the frame from rot and rapid destruction. Otherwise, the foundation will quickly collapse upon contact with water. The columns should also be made of materials with high frost resistance and water resistance. Water can accumulate in the soil, which will lead to corrosion of concrete and subsidence of the structure.

The wooden floor must not be installed without ventilation. Its scheme provides for gaps around the entire perimeter, depending on the type of layer being laid. It is not always possible to correct the violation after laying the finish coat, so it is necessary not to violate the technology at each stage of work.

floor boards should not be less than 35 millimeters in thickness. Such a plank will withstand a critical load and last a long time, unlike an analogue of smaller thickness. All floor boards must be cut to the same dimensions. This will not only simplify installation, but also provide the necessary evenness and slope of the surface. In cold periods, such a coating will retain heat longer.

Wood floors must only be installed using stainless steel fasteners. Metal structures can be further treated to protect against rust. Since the coating is regularly exposed to water, it is necessary to pay increased attention selection of metal structures and fasteners.

The floor level of the washroom is always slightly lower than the level of other rooms. The steam room and the rest room should rise by a few millimeters.

Before you start laying boards, the coating must be processed. The material is impregnated not only with a mixture to protect against moisture, but also with a substance that protects against fire. The latter is especially important when installing a warm electric floor. All components of the floor must be protected from fire. These indicators are listed in normative documents and must be supported by material certificates.

Masters are advised to give preference to a tiled floor. This combination reliably protects against natural phenomena and the negative effects of the bathhouse. The coating is easy to install and use and will save on hiring workers.

When arranging a steam room, it is necessary to properly arrange the ventilation system. Otherwise, water vapor will accumulate and destroy the coating of the ceiling and walls. Poorly ventilated areas require constant ventilation after use. Only in this case, the bath room will last a long time. To bring ventilation to the outside in the attic, it is necessary to lay a pipe through which water vapor and smoke will be removed from the room. With a monolithic foundation, the craftsmen are advised to make holes from the ventilation pipe to the outside.

How to make the right floor in the bath? What type of construction is more suitable? Which is better - concrete or wood flooring? This article will tell you about this and much more, in which you will find very useful tips.

Classical old baths were heated by a stove-heater. Neither insulation, nor, moreover, floor heating was even implied in them. The floors were clay. IN best case they were covered with wooden flooring. There was no ventilation in the room, and the bathhouse was heated "in a black way", expelling combustion products through a doorway or a small window located under the very eaves.

Modern construction has a lot of techniques and principles for the construction of structures of various sizes using various forms and methods of base insulation using ultra technological materials obtained as a result of the irrepressible growth of scientific and technological progress using nanotechnology.

But the basic principle of building baths with a complete set of interior spaces remained the same. Is it that, paying tribute to the current moment, in addition to the steam room, washing room and dressing room, new relaxation zones, a pool, a billiard room and some other rooms have been added. But modern projects of bath buildings are completely dependent on the whims and wishes of the customer, as they say: "For every pocket."

Object construction

The process of building your own steam room is multi-stage, including several significant stages. Arrangement of floors is a separate stage, including not only the installation of floors, but also the installation of ventilation, sewerage, hydro, steam and thermal insulation.

Much depends on the quality of construction and finishing materials, as well as from the chosen technology of construction work. There are many subtleties in laying floors and their components in the bathhouse. Written more than one volume of recommendations from leading builders about correct device bath floors, depending on their varieties.

floor laying

A matter of paramount importance for creating a room project is the choice of material for flooring. For modern private bath To date, the most acceptable options are two types of erected structures - the construction of a wooden and the construction of concrete foundations. Each of them has its own positive aspects, as well as some nuances of technical difficulties during creation.

A classic of the genre is the creation of cozy and environmentally friendly wooden floors. The main advantage is the speed of their construction and installation. In addition, it is believed that natural wood brings comfort, a special flavor to the room and fills the room with life-giving power.

Varieties of structures. General information

Wooden floors according to their design features are divided into two types:

• Leaking

They allow water to freely penetrate through the ceiling, draining into a specially equipped underground. For their device, floorboards are used, laid at the same level in such a way that gaps or gaps are formed between them, at least 5 mm wide, so that the tree swollen from water does not allow the formation of congestion. The water flowing into the underground is absorbed by the soil or artificially drained from under the foundation.

The biggest disadvantage is the impossibility of taking measures to warm the floor, since the structure is removable and taken out to dry after each procedure. flowing type, as a rule, are arranged in seasonal baths.

• Not leaking

The name speaks for itself. Water does not seep between the slots of the flooring, but is collected and drained from the room. To do this, the floors are made with a slight slope towards the water drain hole, which is equipped with a drain pipe leading towards the pit and the sewer network.

This type of construction requires additional installation of a rough floor with the organization of an insulation pad consisting of several layers. This method of arranging floors requires several large costs, both physical and financial. But with the right device, compliance with all the norms and rules of technical equipment, the result is a practical, warm and high-quality flooring, which is to be used at any time of the year.

Racks

Wooden flooring is quite affordable for self-assembly. This requires logs or bars, 150x150 mm in size. They serve as a supporting floor on which the flooring is attached. To give the lags strength, they are laid on brick or reinforced concrete pillars. In dimensions, the posts must be at least 150 mm thick, so that the width of the platform under the laid logs is somewhat larger.

In height, they must correspond to the top line of the foundation, if the tape version is used. When constructing a columnar or foundation on screw piles, then the logs should be on the same level with the mortgage crown in such a way that the upper line of the supports coincides with the upper horizon of the beams.

Before starting any installation, all wooden parts of the structure are treated with protective agents, in particular with an antiseptic at least 2 times and covered with waterproofing. Roofing material, roofing felt, bitumen or glassine are used as waterproofing materials.

Underground

Before the construction of the underground with a leaking type of floor, the composition of the soil is initially investigated. If it is composed of light, rapidly absorbing water rocks, such as sandstones or sandy loams, then for subflooring it is enough to dig a hole at least 400 mm deep and fill it with filtration material. Crushed stone is used as a filter, on which the flow of water breaks and quickly seeps to the drainage layer.

When the soil is composed of clayey rocks, which practically impermeable to water, a kind of hydraulic structure is installed underground. It consists of a tank and pipes leading to a pit. The outflow of water from it occurs either by gravity or with the help of auxiliary means incorporated in the structure.

The underground with a non-leaking type of overlap is fully equipped to drain drain water using hydraulic structures. Much attention is also paid to floor ventilation. To do this, leave gaps of at least 150 mm to the laid logs or make appropriate holes in the rough floor, into which plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 to 150 mm are mounted.

Logs and flooring

A leaky type structure is constructed quickly, without taking any effort or time. The first board is rigidly attached to the wall with nails, the rest are laid relative to it in increments of at least 35 mm to form cracks through which water will escape. This design does not require specific laying methods, so they can be laid from any wall of the room.

If, for example, we are doing a non-leaking type of construction, then it is necessary to create a slight slope towards the drain of the water.

The device of a non-leaking structure begins with the implementation of a basic floor - a rough floor, on which an insulation pad is attached. It includes a multilayer system of steam, hydro and thermal insulation layers on which a finishing coating of tightly fitted edged or tongue-and-groove boards is laid. Special attention must be paid to the position of the tongue and groove board groove. It should be directed to the inside of the bath. Fastening is done with nails or capercaillie screws.

• concrete floor

A concrete floor has a number of positive qualities. It is not afraid of large temperature changes, is not destroyed by putrefactive bacteria and is easy to maintain. The service life of a concrete floor significantly exceeds the working time of wooden floors.

The main point for the device of a concrete floor is the preparation of the soil. To do this, the soil is carefully rammed and a crushed stone cushion is formed, at least 150 mm thick, which is impregnated with bitumen. The purpose of the pillow is to distribute loads during the operation of the building.

Since any concrete structure according to its physical characteristics, it is a rather cold object, since concrete has a rather low coefficient of thermal conductivity, this floor must be insulated. This operation can be done in one of two ways:

1. Concrete in two layers

The laying of the base is carried out in two layers, between which there is an insulation pad. To organize a two-layer type of base with the most key point is the correct preparation of the concrete solution.

The lower layer, 150 mm high, consists of large fractions of crushed stone, conglomerate or broken brick, at least 35 mm in diameter, filled with a cement-sand mixture. With large volumes of construction, the territory is divided along the guides into a meter-wide strip, which are subsequently simultaneously poured with a screed. The screed itself with this option turns out to be quite even and beautiful.

To form the top layer, a fine and very fine crushed stone fraction is used. The main point in the construction of the second layer is its careful tamping and care of the concrete gaining strength. Therefore, for several days the base must be moistened - cover the surface with wet sawdust.

1. Formation of one layer

A layer of thermal insulation is formed on the upper part of the base, which allows the arrangement of floors with a wooden covering, or the use of electric or water heating systems for the flooring.

Concrete floor insulation

Regardless of what type of insulation will be used, it is laid on a prepared waterproofing layer without vents with carefully sealed joints of the sheets. Most often, ruberoid is used for these purposes. You can apply seamless waterproofing, such as liquid rubber, which is very easy to install and allows you to isolate even hard-to-reach places. But before applying liquid insulators, it is recommended to prime the entire surface.

The process of warming is started as soon as the lower insulating layer is ready. As heaters, various types of insulation materials are used:

• fine fraction of expanded clay, or expanded clay sand in combination with expanded clay gravel;
• boiler slag;
• slab mineral or basalt wool;
• from modern materials half-pan or expanded polystyrene;
• foam concrete.

All of them have a number of advantages, but are not without some disadvantages.

To achieve the required threshold of thermal conductivity, the mound of boiler slag must significantly exceed the thickness of the layer of expanded clay gravel. Despite the fact that the cost is much higher than the price of slag, it is better to use it as thermal insulation, since expanded clay is an environmentally friendly product.

The use of expanded polystyrene is limited by the fact that rodents are happy to settle in its thickness.

Foam concrete is an excellent insulation, but has a very serious drawback - it absorbs water in large volumes, since it is a hygroscopic material.

Work order

Before starting the installation of floors, it is necessary to treat all elements of wooden structures several times with antiseptic preparations. In addition, if the bath is arranged on a strip foundation, it is necessary to treat its entire surface with liquid tar and lay a double layer of roofing material.

After these manipulations, the following stages of work are ahead:

• laying of underlayment bars;
• installation and installation of logs;
• laying a rough floor;
• work on laying the insulation pillow;
• finish flooring.

Clean wood floor

Laying finishing is done with great care and accuracy. At the beginning of work, it is necessary to install a two-centimeter rail guide along a short wall. It is fastened with self-tapping screws and serves as a starting point, or a base rail for the ends of the floorboards.

The first board is laid with a longitudinal edge with a spike to the wall at a distance of 20 mm. Self-tapping screws cut into the places of attachment to the logs flush with the work surface.

All other floorboards are laid relative to the first, well-reinforced floorboard. The thorn should fit freely enough into the groove. Floorboards are fitted to each other in such a way that a continuous surface is obtained. To do this, at the points of attachment to the lags, the boards are tapped with a hammer on a special bar, driving them until the gap disappears, after pressing it with its end against the base rail.

There is an opinion that with this method of laying, the floorboard may burst. It depends on the quality of the board itself and the presence of knots in it. Cracking can also occur when strengthening it with self-tapping screws. Therefore, it is recommended that before drowning a self-tapping screw into wood, pre-drill an entrance for it at an angle of 45 degrees.

The floorboard is strengthened to each log using a screwdriver, sinking the head of the screw so that it does not interfere with the installation of the next floorboard.

The last floorboard will most likely need trimming along its entire length. Here it is necessary not to forget and leave a gap of 20 mm to the wall. To do this, you will need to prepare additional bars or wooden wedges that are driven between the floorboard and the wall. The final fastener is made in the same way as the starting fastener.

Video about the correct device of the bath

A distance of at least 150 mm must be observed between the internal backfill of the foundation and the rough flooring to create a ventilation space in the underground.

Noise during walking is dampened with the help of soundproof spacers made of fiberglass, 100x100x4 mm in size. They are usually applied to the waterproofing layer before installing the log.

Additional treatment with antiseptic preparations should be subjected to all wooden structures that were opened during the installation process.

The installation of floorboards should be carried out in such a way that the water flow flows across the board.

All structures must be made of wood with at least 15% moisture content, in other words, well dried, in order to avoid the formation of twisting, drying, delamination and other types of deformation of wooden floors.

You can equip the floor in the bath with your own hands if all the necessary work is done correctly. The service life of the floor depends on the quality of the base preparation, the choice of insulating materials and the finishing coating. We will consider the installation of floors for a bath, the features of their installation, as well as the technological nuances that must be taken into account.

Features of the device floors in the bath

How to make a durable and wear-resistant floor in the bath? The construction of the bath as such is carried out taking into account many nuances. A room with a specific microclimate provides extreme operating conditions for the floor covering. High humidity, constant temperature fluctuations and contact of the floor base with water can significantly reduce the life of the floor.

The choice of a specific method of arranging the foundation in a "damp" room depends on such factors:

• method of heat and waterproofing;
• type of foundation and the presence of an underground;
• seasonal use of the bath;
• type of soil under the building;
• structural features of the building.

If the bath is planned to be used throughout the year, in this case it is more expedient to make a solid foundation with pouring a concrete screed. In a frame building, which is used only in the warm season, it is best to make a wooden floor, since its assembly from an economic point of view will be more profitable.

Types of wood floors

The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be the most acceptable for seasonal buildings. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, it helps to save heat in a "damp" room. However, high humidity can cause wood elements to rot. To avoid this, experts recommend using floor logs and flooring made from coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic due to the presence of natural resins in the wood structure.

All types of wooden coverings for baths can be conditionally divided into the following categories:

1. Leaking. The boards are laid at a certain interval, so water is immediately removed from the room due to the cracks formed in the coating, the size of which varies from 3 to 7 mm. The device of such a foundation is beneficial for several reasons:
   • simple installation;
   • low cost of floors;
   • no need to install a drain system.
2. Non-leaking. A monolithic coating assembled from boards can be used in buildings that are used all year round. However, in this case, it is necessary to install a water collector in the base, with the help of which the waste water would be discharged into the sewer. The non-leakage coating device has the following advantages:
   • long period of operation;
   • good thermal insulation of the room;
   • the possibility of assembling underfloor heating.

Necessary tools

The construction of a bath is a laborious and responsible process, but one of its most important stages is the arrangement of floors. The microclimate in the room depends on the quality of the installation work associated with the installation of the sewer system and the laying of floor materials. To implement all the stages of floor construction correctly, first of all, you need to have the necessary tools at hand.

The device of a concrete base is possible with the following tools:

• concrete mixer;
• lighthouses;
• rule (for alignment);
• building level;
• container for solution;
• shovel.

To do wood flooring you will need other tools:

• hammer;
• jigsaw (angle grinder);
• plane;
• roulette;
• nails.

To understand how to properly mount the floors in the bath, consider a step-by-step guide to laying wooden and concrete floors.

Standard floor construction

The base, equipped in the steam room, should be located above zero level by 8-9 cm. In this case, the room temperature for a long time will remain at the required level. At the same time, in the washing room, the base is made somewhat lower than in other rooms of the bath. This avoids water leakage under the floor into the dressing room, shower room, etc.

The standard flooring is represented by a multilayer cake:

• waterproofing layer (placed on the ground);
• bars under a wooden crate;
• draft coating;
• insulating materials (insulation, waterproofing);
• logs for assembling the crate;
• heat and water insulators;
• lining;
• air bag;
• wood and concrete layer;
• decorative coating.

Features of the preparation of the base

The traditional construction of a warm floor begins with preparatory work. To ensure a long service life of the finish coating, in the process of preparing the base, the following work is performed:

1. In place of future floors, a mineral pillow is laid, represented by broken bricks or expanded clay granules. The thickness of the drainage layer must be at least 15 cm;
2. Gravel or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured from above;
3. Then the laid materials are well compacted.

Laying a mineral cushion helps to break capillarity, due to which ground moisture rises to the base and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture for concrete floors

To make a high-quality solution for pouring the screed, you need to strictly observe the proportions and order of adding the necessary components. To improve the thermal insulation qualities of the mixture, perlite can be added to its composition. The process of preparing the solution is implemented in two stages.

First stage:

1. 10 liters of clean water are poured into the concrete mixer;
2. Then about 2 buckets of expanded sand are poured;
3. The components are mixed;
4. Next, add 5 liters of cement grade M-300, not lower;
5. The mixture is well stirred;
6. Then add about 5 more liters of water;
7. Stir the solution until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Can be improved if needed specifications composition by adding perlite to it. To do this, do the following:

1. 10 kg of perlite are poured into the previously prepared solution;
2. Add about 2-2.5 liters of water;
3. The components are mixed until the concrete mass turns into loose;
4. After 10 minutes, the components of the mixture are again well mixed.

Ultimately, a loose composition will be obtained, which in consistency will resemble plasticine. After that, a screed is made on the prepared base.

Filling the first layer

If the area of ​​​​the rough coating is small, the screed is made immediately on the entire site. To fill the screed over a large area, the room is conditionally divided into strips, processing each one in turn. How to lay the first layer of concrete mix?

1. The thickness of the "rough" screed must reach at least 12 cm;
2. The horizontality of the laid layer is checked with a level;
3. Level the mixture using the rule;
4. So that water does not accumulate on the surface of the finished floor, the screed is made with a slight slope towards the pit;
5. The slope of the screed must be at least 1 cm per meter of length.

Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors

As soon as the screed hardens, you need to proceed to the stage of thermal and waterproofing of the coating. Before laying insulating materials, the concrete surface is checked for bulges, cracks and dents. If necessary, the defects on the coating close up.

As a waterproofing material, as a rule, the following are chosen:

• bituminous mastic;
• polyethylene film;
• roll roofing material.

After arranging waterproofing, it is necessary to make floor insulation. For these purposes can be used:

• mineral wool;
• polystyrene;
• penoplex;
• granulated expanded clay;
• foam concrete.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be 10-15 cm. As practice shows, optimal insulation for concrete surfaces is expanded clay. It does not absorb moisture, weighs little and also has good sound insulation.

Filling the finishing screed

Laying the finishing layer of the screed technologically differs little from the previous version. But in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from 8 to 10 cm. It should be noted that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

And yet, the arrangement of floors in large and small rooms is slightly different. If the base area is large enough, to give the structure greater strength, it is worth laying a reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with intensive use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

Features of wooden floors

Wooden flooring is a traditional type of coating that is used for arranging floors in a bath. Despite the hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in demand among consumers due to the following qualities:

• Wood is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
• The flooring has a low thermal conductivity, unlike concrete;
• Wooden flooring creates a more comfortable atmosphere in the room.

In addition, you can make a wooden base in just a few days, since the stage of “wet” work can be bypassed, which you cannot do when pouring the screed.

Laying wooden floors

How to lay wooden floors correctly? Mounting a wooden base is quite easy, but you need to take into account a lot of technological nuances. The whole process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

1. Construction of support posts. To install the supports, rather thick bars with a cross section of 15 cm are used. It is the racks that will experience the greatest load during the operation of the base of the floor covering. They are placed on metal or brick pillars, secured with steel brackets. When arranging floors in a bathhouse erected on a pile foundation, the lag is laid on a mortgage crown;
2. Underground installation. In the case of assembling leaking floors, a 20 cm layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid in the underground. If the soil is clayey and does not absorb moisture well, a reservoir is installed under the floor to collect runoff water, which by gravity flows into the sewer through a pipeline. If you need to make a non-leaking base, it is mandatory to insulate it (expanded clay, foam plastic). To ensure normal ventilation of the underground, ventilation holes are made in the foundation for better air circulation;
3. Laying lag and finishing flooring. To arrange leaking floors, the logs are placed in random order, observing horizontality. When installing a non-leaking base, we make a slope from the log towards the pit. In the case of non-leaking floors, cranial blocks are nailed to the logs, on which draft boards are thrown. Then they put a layer of hydro and heat insulator. After that wooden crate sheathed with grooved board. Inside the "pie", between finishing boards and lags, there should be a gap of 10-12 cm for underground ventilation.

It is very problematic to build a bath with a wear-resistant floor, given the specific microclimate in the room. To increase the period of operation of the floor covering, during its installation it is worth considering such moments.

The manufacturing technology of the floor in the bath is very different from the design in residential premises. This is largely due to high temperature and humidity, which, even with periodic exposure, affect finishing and facing materials. Following step by step guide, you can make the floor in any room of the bath with your own hands.

Floor arrangement in the washing department of the Russian bath

Washroom is a room for taking water procedures, located in front of the steam room. Usually, in order to save space and for convenience, the washing room is combined with a shower room. It can also be installed font, barrel or small bath. In the Russian bath, the washing room is combined with a steam room.

The temperature in the washroom may vary. When cold air enters from the dressing room, it drops, sometimes below 30°C, and when hot steam penetrates from the steam room, it rises to 50–60°C.

This directly affects the method and technology of flooring. It should be well ventilated and dry quickly. Moisture and water retention should not be allowed, but at the same time it is necessary that the underground space is well ventilated without creating strong drafts.

For arranging a steam room, it is best to use one of two types of floor:

1. Leaking is a wooden plank, located on a supporting lag structure, which, in turn, is fixed on support pillars, a lower crown or concrete base. For free flow of water, the floorboards are laid in a collapsible way with a small gap of up to 5–6 cm.
2. A non-leaking floor is a monolithic hermetic coating made of wood or concrete with a slight slope. At the lowest point on the plane, a hole is mounted connected to sewer system, diverting dirty water into a drain hole.

Both types have their advantages and disadvantages. A leaking floor is installed quite quickly, but if not properly insulated, it can cause too low temperatures in the washing room. This is especially noticeable when the bath is small or poorly insulated.

A non-leaking floor has a more complex structure, but it allows you to lay a full-fledged heat-insulating layer, which significantly increases comfort and reduces heat loss. But when performing repairs, you will have to completely dismantle the front layer, while for the leaking one you will need to remove only part of the floorboards.

What material can be used

Washroom floors are made of wood planks, concrete, insulating materials, plastic or metal pipes, galvanized fasteners, etc. The total amount of required materials directly depends on the chosen floor design and its installation.

In the bath, you can make a leaking poured monolithic concrete floor with a tile or boardwalk lining. This design is only suitable if the building was built on a strip foundation. If piles were used, then it is recommended to lay galvanized steel with a crate.

To make a monolithic floor in a washing room, you will need:

• fine-grained sand and expanded clay;
• bituminous mastic;
• roofing felt and polyethylene film;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• waterproofing material with a reflective layer (when using a warm floor);
• steel mesh for reinforcement;
• metallic profile;
• cement-sand mixture;
• porcelain tiles or planed wooden board;
• siphon and plastic pipe.

The described design may include laying a system of underfloor heating, which allows you to maintain a constant temperature in the washing room. This will also affect the performance of the coating - moisture will evaporate faster without penetrating into the seams between tiles or boards.

Video: what material to lay on the floor in the bath

Calculation of the amount of materials for the washing room

The size of the washing room depends on the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath, so in each case it will be necessary to calculate the materials according to individual parameters. In order to understand how to do this, as an example, the calculation of the material for a room of 3 × 4 m is given. The floor is usually located at a height of 50 cm from the ground.

To install the floor you will need:

1. Fine-grained sand. It will be used as a backfill on the ground. The layer thickness is 10–15 cm. The total volume of sand is: V=(3×4)x0.15
   \u003d 1.8 m 3.
2. Expanded clay is used for filling in front of heat-insulating material. Layer thickness 25–40 cm. Total volume of material: V=(3×4)x0.4=4.8 m 3 .
3. Extruded polystyrene foam is a heat-insulating material laid on top of the expanded clay cushion. Layer thickness 50–100 mm. When buying polystyrene foam from the Penoplex company, 3 packs of insulation will be required to insulate a floor with an area of ​​​​12 m 2.
4. Cement-sand mixture. It can be bought ready-made or made by hand. The first option is recommended. The thickness of the poured layer is 7–12 cm. The consumption of the mixture with a layer thickness of 1 cm is indicated on the bag with the dry mixture. For example, when buying polygran sand concrete, the consumption is 18 kg / m 2. To fill the floor with a thickness of 1 cm, you will need: V \u003d (3 × 4)x18 \u003d 216 kg. For 7 cm layer: V=216×7=1512 kg, or 84 bags.
5. Reinforcing mesh is used to strengthen the cement-sand layer. The optimal cell size is 50×50 mm. The total coverage area is 12 m 2 .
6. Ruberoid is used to isolate expanded clay filling from sand cushion and soil. The total amount is 12 m 2. It is better to purchase roofing material made in accordance with GOST with a density of 350 ± 25g / m 2.
7. Polyethylene film is used to insulate the gravel pad. The total amount is 12 m 2. Optimum density - 150 microns.
8. A metal profile will be required for the manufacture of beacons for leveling the screed. If total area washing is 12 m 2, then approximately 25 m of profile will be required.
9. Siphon and drain pipe. Usually, it is brought to the center or far wall in the washroom. With this in mind, 4-5 m polypropylene pipe with a diameter of 25–32 mm. For installation of a turn, an elbow made of a similar material is required.

The flooring is selected individually, taking into account the requirements of the owner. If you plan to lay tiles, then it must have anti-slip properties. For example, porcelain stoneware 30 × 30 cm in size is suitable for washing. One package is designed to cover 1.30–1.5 m 2 of the floor. Therefore, for a room of 12 m 2, 8–10 packages are required.

If it is planned to lay a plank floor, then it is better to use tongue-and-groove floorboards as floorboards. floorboard from larch with a thickness of 20 mm. It is desirable that the material has already been dried to natural moisture.

Necessary tool for mounting the structure

For the arrangement and manufacture of the floor you will need:

• shovel;
• concrete mixer;
• water tank;
• container for concrete mix;
• metal rule;
• bubble level;
• construction knife;
• paint brush.

In addition to the basic tools, for laying porcelain tiles you will need:

• manual rail tile cutter;
• putty knife;
• mallet;
• container for tile adhesive.

When laying a grooved board, use:

• jigsaw;
• hammer;
• galvanized screws or nails.

How to make a concrete warm floor with tiling in a sauna

Before installing the floor, it is necessary to clean the soil inside the foundation from construction debris, branches, leaves, etc. If the inside of the bearing blocks is very damp, then you should wait for them to partially dry.

The sequence of actions when installing a monolithic floor in a washing room is as follows:

1. The surface of the soil must be carefully leveled, compacted, and large stones, if any, removed. The inner surface of the strip foundation is treated with bituminous mastic in 1-2 layers.
2. At this stage, you need to consider entering the drain pipe through the strip foundation. For example, a hole is made in a concrete block with a puncher, into which a piece of steel pipe is mounted. Through this jumper, a polypropylene pipe will be inserted under the floor structure.
3. The drain must be carefully mounted in the place where the corresponding hole will be located. A plastic plug must be put on the end of the pipe so that sand, expanded clay or concrete mixture does not get inside.
4. It is necessary to pour fine-grained sand on the surface of the soil, carefully compact it. The layer thickness is 10–15 cm. If the sand is too dry, then after leveling the surface is slightly moistened. This will help to tamp the pillow more quickly and efficiently.
5. Now you need to lay the roofing material on the inner surface of the foundation with an overlap of 18–20 cm. When laying rows, it is recommended to leave an overlap of 13–15 cm. For a more rigid fixation, the edge of the web is smeared with bituminous mastic. If necessary, the roofing material is attached to the surface of the foundation.
6. Next, you need to lay out a layer of expanded clay up to 40 cm thick. After backfilling and leveling this material, 6–8 cm should remain to the upper edge of the foundation.
7. Expanded clay pillow is recommended to lay polyethylene film 150–200 µm thick. The joints are covered with paper adhesive tape. After that, a heat-insulating material up to 10 cm thick is laid on the polyethylene.
8. Now you can install beacons to distribute the concrete mixture over the surface. The step between the guides is 60–100 cm. A cement-sand mixture is used to install the beacons. In the manufacture of guides on cement, a reinforcing mesh is laid so that it is located between the insulation and beacons.
9. When installing beacons, it is necessary to ensure that a slight slope is formed towards the drain hole. To do this, each guide is checked by level.
10. At the bottom of the wall along the perimeter of the washing room, you need to glue the damper tape. The processing height is 10–15 cm. After the concrete has dried, the protruding excess of the tape can be cut off.
11. Now you need to fill the screed. It is recommended to prepare the mixture for this in a concrete mixer.

The concrete screed gains full strength in 25–28 days. After 3–5 days, you can carefully dismantle the guides and fill in the voids that have formed. In the process of drying, especially in the first week, the screed should be moistened with water 2-3 times a day. Flooring can be laid no earlier than after 25 days.

Video: do-it-yourself drain in the bath (step by step instructions)

How to treat a pouring wooden floor

The composition is applied with a paint brush on a cleaned and dry surface, which has previously been sanded. It is also recommended to disinfect.

The interior of the washing room can be dried (use a special substance based on vegetable oils forming a film coating). This material perfectly protects wood from the negative effects of high temperature and moisture.

The room where the sink is located can simply be painted, but it is recommended to use only special water-repellent compounds.

With frequent use of the bath, it is necessary to carry out periodic impregnation wooden surfaces(once every six months), since this coating tends to wash out. The average cost of semi-matte varnish for baths and saunas varies from 550 to 800 rubles per 1 liter.

Do-it-yourself steam room flooring: a step-by-step guide

The steam room is the central room in the bath. The air temperature in it can reach 70°C with a humidity of 80%. In a Finnish sauna, the air is 10–20°C hotter, but the humidity is noticeably lower.

The requirements for floor construction in the steam room and washing room are almost the same. Water and condensed moisture must be freely removed from the surface, while it is necessary that heat is retained, and the lining has anti-slip properties.

According to the type of arrangement, the floor in the steam room is also divided into two types: leaking and non-leaking.

The best option for baths on a pile foundation would be the construction of an insulated leaking floor with a plank or grating flooring. The most common device scheme for such a floor will consist of:

1. Floor beams.
2. Skull bar.
3. Boardwalk subfloor.
4. Pit for the formation of a drain hole;
5. Drainage polypropylene pipe.
6. Water ladder.
7. Expanded clay thermal insulation pad.
8. Reinforced concrete screed.
9. Plank grating.
10. Waterproofing with an overlap on load-bearing walls.

When installing the floor, you can use expanded clay filling and concrete screed. This is a laborious process that requires certain skills in working with a cement mixture.

Expanded clay can be replaced with conventional mineral insulation, and instead of a screed, put a sheet of galvanized steel.

Material selection and calculation

The size of the steam room directly affects the amount of material required. Therefore, as an example, a calculation is given for arranging a floor in a 3 × 3 m room.

To make a leaky floor you will need:

A polypropylene pipe, a drainage elbow and a ladder are purchased taking into account the location of the drain hole. To organize a drain in the middle of the room, you will need to lay a pipe, put on a swivel elbow at an angle of 90 ° C, and make an extension to drain the drain flush with the floor surface.

Floor making tool

You will need the following tool:

• electric jigsaw or wood saw;
• construction knife;
• metal scissors;
• screwdriver;
• electric planer;
• hammer;
• square;
• chisel.

How to lay the floor in a frame bath on a pile foundation

Before you arrange the floor, you will need to carefully examine the lower crown and the supporting beams. If there is any damage or signs of decay, then this element requires partial or complete replacement.

The manufacturing technology of the pouring floor in the steam room consists of the following:

1. At the bottom of the bearing beams cut into the crown, draft bars are attached. To fix the elements, galvanized nails 60–70 mm long are used. Mounting step - 50 cm.
2. A rough flooring of edged board. To do this, it is sawn off with a size corresponding to the width of the opening between the beams. Fasteners are not used during installation. A hole is cut in the rough flooring for the entry of a drain pipe.
3. After laying the flooring, the floor surface is covered with roofing material with an overlap on the wall of 15–20 cm and an overlap of 10 cm with each other. The joint seam is smeared with bituminous mastic.
4. The space between the lags is filled with heat-insulating material. Most often, basalt wool is used in rolls, but expanded clay pillow can also be made.
5. The flooring of the guides from a bar or a thick board is carried out. To do this, the material is laid in such a way that a slope is formed, for which you can use linings under the timber at the base.
6. The guides are attached directly to the support joists using galvanized nails or self-tapping screws 50–80 mm long. After that, the space between them is filled with basalt wool.
7. A galvanized sheet is laid on top of the guides with an overlap of 15–20 cm on the wall. Only special self-tapping screws with a flat head are used for fastening. The step of fastening along the wall is 15–20 cm, along the guides - 20–30 cm. After laying, a small hole is carefully made in the center of the sheet to drain the water.
8. The support beams are fastened under the plank pouring floor. To do this, a beam with a section of 70 × 70 mm is attached to the wall using a “L”-shaped galvanized corner with a step of 70–100 cm. Floorboards from a polished board are laid on top of the beams (it is better to use larch). The distance between them should be 3-5 mm.

Galvanized sheet is used infrequently, but it is quite good decision, allowing to unload the supporting structure of the floor. If the bath is erected on a strip foundation or is settled in the basement of the house, then it is better to give preference to a grate with further pouring of a concrete screed.

Video: how to make a plank floor with a slope in a larch steam room

How to prevent rotting logs and floorboards

To treat the floor in the steam room, a heat-resistant (withstands up to 120 ° C) water-based varnish is used. This is an elastic coating that protects the wood from the penetration of moisture, vapors and dirt.

The composition is applied to the prepared floor covering with a paint brush in 2 layers. Application is carried out in a ventilated room at a temperature of 5–30°C. When arranging a flowing floor, processing should begin after laying the load-bearing log. Only after the composition has dried (2-3 hours should pass), you can proceed to laying the floor covering and impregnating it.

This composition is not suitable for processing furniture in the steam room. Benches, stools, chairs must not be covered with it.

The average consumption of the mixture is 18 m 2 /l.

Installation of the floor in the bath is a technologically complex and time-consuming process, largely depending on the individual characteristics of the structure, its dimensions and the type of bearing base. Before performing this work, it is recommended to draw up a diagram where you want to designate its main elements and components. This will allow you to more accurately think over the flooring technology specifically for the parameters of your bath.

Bath floors are subjected to serious tests during operation. The tree is not resistant to stress. oven weight, constant contact with water and detergents, lead to damage to the floors. Sooner or later, floor repair will be necessary in any bath.

You can carry out this event with your own hands, but everything must be done so that the next repair is required after many years.

The floor in the bath is not an easy platform for the safe and convenient movement of a person. It enters the wastewater drainage system, performing the function of directing the drain into the sewer. In different bath rooms, specific requirements are imposed on it.

The most important:

• the bath floor should not be a moisture accumulator, i.e. a source of rotting, mold, bad odors;
• water should not accumulate on the floor surface, interfering with the bathing procedure;
• cold should not penetrate from below, and bare feet should not feel it;
• the danger of a person falling as a result of slipping on a wet surface must not be allowed;
• To general requirements sufficient durability, resistance to bathing conditions, aesthetics and environmental friendliness should be attributed.

The floor in the steam room is in particularly difficult conditions, where the temperature can reach its level of 50-60º when exposed to high humidity provided by superheated water vapor and hot water.

A wooden or concrete floor can be equipped here, with the first option being the most common.

The standard floor in the bath has the following design:

• Its bearing basis is the logs installed on the foundation or cut into the basement crown of the log house.
• To eliminate the gap between the beams and the ground, support posts or platforms are installed.
• Between the lags, waterproofing (roofing material) and insulation (most often, bulk type - expanded clay, sawdust, ash) are laid.
• Next, a draft floor is mounted in the form of a wooden flooring, on top of which tiled or rolled thermal insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier are laid.
• The next element is the obligatory ventilation gap, which is formed by installing a crate of beams.
• The top layer is the top coat.

The specificity of the floor in the steam room is that it becomes the primary part of the waste system. During its arrangement, the problem of quickly removing water from the surface and directing it to the sinks is solved. For this, they are used different variants structures, the most common of which are leaking and non-leaking floors.

wooden floors

Wood in the construction of the bath floor has been used since ancient times and has proven its reliability.

Logs are made from a bar measuring 15x15 or 10x15 cm. They are attached to the foundation with anchors. A tie-in is carried out in the basement crown.

As a draft and finishing flooring, boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm or lining are used.

Which wood is suitable for replacing the floor

When repairing a wooden floor is required, one must think that the frequency of such an event depends on the correct choice of wood species. In a steam room ideal option the use of larch is recognized.

It has high water resistance and durability, but it will be quite expensive. In order to save money, it can only be used for finishing. All internal elements of the floor can be made from cheaper wood - pine, spruce, birch.

In other bath rooms where there is no excessive humidity, pine is most often used. Here, it not only satisfies all requirements, but is also able to create a special, attractive, coniferous aroma.

If you want to ensure the appearance of the coating, fir, alder, aspen, ash, oak are used.

Preparation before replacing the floor

Before starting the repair of the bath floor, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures:

Damage assessment

A good reason for repair work are such signs - pronounced rotting or mechanical damage to the coating.

• The appearance of creaking and subsidence when walking
• Bad smell
• Noticeable deformation of the flooring, swelling

The degree of damage to the floor structure can not always be determined by external manifestations. To assess their scale, you need to find out the state of the internal elements.

The easiest way to detect internal defects is a dull sound when tapping the floorboards in some places (this is how rotten areas appear).

Raised nail heads (rotten wood does not hold fasteners). To accurately assess the condition of the floor, you will have to lift the outer deck and conduct a visual inspection.

Definition of the type of work

Repair can be current and capital.

In the first case, the work is carried out without opening the entire floor covering. This can be the removal of surface defects with a planer or grinder, as well as the replacement of individual floorboards.

Major repairs will be required if internal elements have been destroyed. This will require the opening of the entire external flooring and subfloor, the replacement of the log.

Acquisition of the necessary lumber (beam, lining, slats, board).

Preparation of material and work site

At this stage, the wood is dried, surface treated with a planer, cut according to the floor configuration, impregnated with an antiseptic.

To carry out repairs, it is necessary to remove all furniture from the room and clean the floor surface for a detailed inspection of the condition of the flooring.

Features of wooden floors

Depending on the extent of damage, the following measures may be required:

Surface leveling

Over time, the wooden floor may lose the smoothness of the outer surface as a result of slight deformation of the elements, shrinkage processes.

If in general the floor structure retains sufficient strength, then the repair will consist of leveling the coating. To do this, the surface layer is removed, and then planing or grinding is performed. From the tool you will need a planer, grinder or grinder with a grinding disc, emery cloth, spatula, paint brush.

Replacing or repairing floorboards

Such repairs are needed in case of damage (rotting) of individual boards of the outer coating or the presence of a defect on them that cannot be eliminated when assembled.

For example, a significant subsidence of the board or, conversely, bulging outward. To carry out the operation, it is necessary to carefully lift the desired board without damaging the logs.

When the damage can be repaired, it is processed by a planer to the desired size. When the floorboard falls through, a gasket is installed that raises the board to the level of the rest of the elements.

If replacement of a rotten floorboard is required, then it is necessary to install a board of exactly the same size, and finally align it with the rest after fixing.

When the support elements become unusable, repairs can be carried out in the following ways:

1. Small area damage. In this case, along the boundaries of the rotten zone, additional supports are installed under the logs. Then, the damaged part of the beam is cut out and removed. In its place, an identical piece of timber is installed. Support posts are installed under it, and the ends of the bars are joined according to the “half-beam” or “thorn-groove” scheme.
2. Replacement of the lag fixed on the foundation. Fastening is carried out using anchors, which means that in order to disassemble such a connection, access to it is necessary. In this case, you will have to cut small plot base crown at the attachment point. After that, the rotten timber is removed, a new one is installed in its place, and the crown section is restored.
3. Replacing the log embedded in the filling element of the log house. It should be noted that with a strong defeat of the lag, rotting is also found in the filling element of the bath, so they are changed at the same time. In order to carry out repairs without lifting the entire structure, wooden beam cut out and replaced in parts.

Why floor gaps are needed

Many bath owners have doubts about the need for gaps in wooden flooring, and they try to seal them.

Important! When arranging a wooden floor, compensation gaps must be formed to prevent deformation and cracking.

Why are gaps necessary, despite the fact that they create "cold bridges"? With significant fluctuations in temperature in the bath room, the wood expands noticeably, for which a certain space is needed.

In the absence of such dampers, large stresses arise in the material that can lead to deformation or cracking at the edges of the boards.

A gap of 10-15 mm wide must be left near the wall, and also 2-3 mm in size can be formed between the boards.

Another necessary gap is located under the wooden flooring - the ventilation gap.

Steam, reaching the waterproofing, condenses, and there is a risk of moisture accumulation from the inside of the flooring. The air flow is able to eliminate this phenomenon, and therefore the specified space plays an important role in the operation of the bath floor.

Leaking floor installation

One of the common options for a wooden bath floor is a leaky coating. Its essence lies in laying boards in the outer flooring at a certain distance from each other.

This design allows water to easily penetrate the wood deck. Further, water with a small amount of runoff can simply be discharged into the ground under the bath or discharged through the drainage system outside the building.

The main advantages of poured floors are simplicity of design, rapid removal of water from the surface, no need for waterproofing and insulation. The main disadvantage is the possibility of using a simple system only in the warm season.

For year-round operation, it will be necessary to divert water into the sewer with the installation of insulation under the drainage system.

Making a pouring floor makes sense only in the steam room. In other rooms, this design does not justify itself. The simplest option for arranging such a floor:

1. Removal of soil under the steam room to a depth of 20 - 30 cm.
2. Backfilling of a filter pad made of sand and gravel 15–25 cm thick. You can use ash or expanded clay, which will allow you to slightly insulate the floor.
3. Installing a log from a bar 15x15 or 15x20 cm in increments of 60 - 80 cm.
4. Flooring boards with a width of 15 - 20 cm and a thickness of at least 25 mm. A gap of 20 - 30 mm is left between the boards.

A more complex design involves pouring a concrete platform under the entire area of ​​​​the steam room with a thickness of at least 3 cm. To collect and drain wastewater, a concrete tray is formed with a slope towards the sewer drain.

The site is also made with a slope so that from any point in the room, water, penetrating through the gaps between the boards, goes by gravity into the tray. Logs are mounted on top, on which a pouring flooring from boards is installed.

Interesting! The boards of the upper flooring of the pouring floor can not be fixed on the logs. In this case, after the completion of the bathing procedure, they can be collected and taken out to dry outside.

Installation of a non-leaking floor

A waterproof, wooden floor is considered versatile and visually attractive. Unlike the previous design, the final flooring is made by tightly fitting the boards to each other, which prevents water from escaping into the gaps.

This design allows you to provide a warm floor by laying waterproofing and thermal insulation.

Waste water is discharged through a special hole in the floor, where a ladder or siphon is installed to eliminate unpleasant odors.

bulk floors

Bulk floors are made according to the principle of dry screed. If the floor in the bath is no longer satisfactory in terms of quality or warmth, then it can be easily converted into a bulk version using the base of the structure.

To form the specified floor, a special dry mixture is used, consisting of perlite class sand, fine expanded clay and pumice.

The manufacturing technology includes laying film waterproofing and dense backfilling of the dry mix.

Sheet material (for example, GVLV) is laid on top of such a screed or wooden flooring is laid. Previously, drain pipes are laid in the thickness of the mixture.

Concrete floor

A common non-spill option is the concrete floor in the bath. The standard procedure for its manufacture includes the following steps:

1. Digging a pit and trenches into which a wastewater drainage system is laid.
2. Backfilling of a pillow of sand and gravel 12 - 15 cm thick with careful tamping.
3. Pouring the first concrete layer with a thickness of 5 - 6 cm.
4. Insulation laying (claydite layer, mineral wool, felt).
5. Laying a reinforcing element over the entire surface of the chain-link mesh, pouring a layer of concrete 6-8 cm thick.
6. Pouring a leveling concrete layer up to 10 cm thick.

All concrete pours are carried out with an orientation towards the installed beacons and form a general slope towards the drain hole. Ultimately, the slope of the floor is about 10º.

Reference. Concrete pavement refers to cold surfaces. To eliminate this drawback, wooden gratings are laid on top of it during the bathing procedure.

Ceramic tile floor

Ceramic tile flooring is most commonly used in washrooms where showers or body wash basins are located. Here streams of cold and warm water, which determines the popularity of ceramics.

The tile can be applied to a concrete screed or wooden floor during a major overhaul. The easiest way is to install tiles on concrete. It is enough to carefully align it and eliminate all defects.

For fastening, it is better to use a special adhesive composition designed for tiles with laying in wet rooms.

It will be a little more difficult to prepare wooden flooring. It is recommended to apply sheet material on it, then prime and putty the seams. After that, a layer of plaster with a thickness of 3-6 cm is applied.

On such a "pie" you can safely lay tiles. The main thing is not to forget about the drain hole and the slope of the floor in its direction.

The floor in the bath is important element affecting the comfort of the bath procedure and the durability of the structure. When making it, you should listen to some tips:

1. With a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, one drain hole, even with a sufficient slope, will not provide a quick drain of water.
2. Pouring floors quickly remove moisture, but contribute to heat loss. It is necessary to take care of the insulation of the foundation, the basement of the log house. It is better to place the sauna stove below the floor level.
3. The floor in the steam room must be raised relative to the ground, and the level of the floor in the washing room must be lower than in other rooms so as not to flood them with water.
4. The ventilation gap under the floor with a height of 10 - 15 cm will fully provide the necessary drying.

What type of bathroom floor is best?

Disputes about the design of the bath floor are ongoing. The experience of the centuries-old history of the Russian bath and the opinions of experts say one thing - it is very difficult to come up with something better than a wooden floor.

Another thing is that a reliable floor can only be made from wood such as larch or oak, which is quite expensive. The concrete variety is designed to reduce the cost of construction and speed up work.

In the end, the choice is up to the owner of the bath, and he decides the issue, taking into account his capabilities, the frequency of use and the mass visit.

The floor in the bath must be built with high quality and reliability, so that no quick repairs are required. However, when arranging it, it is worth taking care of maintainability in advance. Typical designs are quite amenable to restoration, and repair work can be done independently, with your own hands.