Floor arrangement in a wooden house: materials and technology. Draft and finishing floor. Do-it-yourself board floor, or how to make wooden floors in a private house How to properly lay floors in a private house
Do-it-yourself wooden flooring is quite possible, if you first study the instructions for this work. Boardwalk has always been more popular than floors made from other materials, as it differs from them in its natural warmth, environmental friendliness and the ability to create a specific, especially healthy microclimate in residential premises.
Most often, coniferous wood is selected for flooring in the house. Mostly larch is used, which shows particular resistance to both temperature extremes and high humidity. Due to the natural antiseptic qualities of this tree, destructive fungal formations do not appear on it, which means that the processes of decay and destruction are excluded.
Gender Requirements
Wooden flooring must meet certain requirements, without which the floors will not last long and will not be comfortable for residents. These criteria can be safely attributed to:
- Effective soundproofing and thermal insulation of rooms.
- Reliability and strength wood flooring.
- Wear resistance, and therefore - the durability of the floor.
- Moisture resistance and hygiene - cleaning the floor should not cause any particular difficulties.
- The aesthetics of wooden flooring - it should become a decoration of the room.
- Ease of installation work.
To achieve all the mentioned qualities of a wooden floor, you need to choose the right material for its installation.
Material selection criteria
In order for the floors to serve for a long time without drying out the boards and their deformation, when choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the following material parameters:
- grade. For a finish coating, it is better to choose the highest or first grade of the board, and for rough flooring, grade 2 ÷ 3 is usually bought. If the finished floor is covered with paint, then second-rate material is quite suitable for it.
The quality of the wood will directly depend on the grade of wood. Even when purchasing material premium, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of possible defects, such as chips, cracks and knots - they should either be completely absent, or be in a minimum amount.
- It is very important to pay attention to the drying of wood. It must have a certain humidity, otherwise, over the years, cracks will appear between the boards, and the floorboards themselves will become deformed. Humidity for finishing boards cannot exceed 12%, and for roughing - not more than 17%.
- The length of the bars and boards should ideally correspond to the length and width of the room where the floor will be laid.
- The standard thickness of floorboards is 120×25mm and 100×25mm. This parameter is selected depending on the step of laying the lag on which the boards will be fixed. According to the existing technology, these distances should be selected in accordance with the data given in the table:
| Step between lags in mm | Floorboard thickness in mm |
|---|---|
| 300 | 20 |
| 400 | 24 |
| 500 | 30 |
| 600 | 35 |
| 700 | 40 |
| 800 | 45 |
| 900 | 50 |
| 1000 | 55 |
Buying any construction material, after having carried out necessary calculations, you need to add 15% in reserve to this amount - this rule is checked experienced builders, so it is recommended to follow it.
Wood preparation
Before the process of installing the lag and flooring of the floorboards, they must be prepared. Usually, flooring material is sold already in planed form, but if burrs are detected during inspection, they must be removed with an electric planer.
Their installation is started only after the material has completely dried.
The choice of floor design
Knowing all the requirements that apply to the coating material, you need to decide on the design of the floor, since for each specific case, its own option is suitable, depending on the conditions in which the installation will take place.
There are several main types of wooden floor designs:
- Floors on logs laid on floor beams. In this case, plywood or boards can be used for the finishing floor.
- "Floating" construction - boards laid on a concrete base, but not attached to it .
- Coating fixed on logs laid on the ground.
These methods of arranging a wooden floor have become the most popular, as they give creative freedom to the master, who can bring his own adjustments to the design. But, one way or another, for each room it is necessary to choose the only option that suits it to a greater extent.
Floor beam system
- Logs, as the basis for the floor, can be fixed to floor beams, which, in turn, are laid on a columnar or strip foundation. This is permissible if the room where the floor is arranged has a width of no more than 2.5 ÷ 3 m.
- To create air layer, floor beams are often raised above the ground to a certain height, laying them on the top waterproofed foundation surface. They can be rigidly fixed to it or simply securely laid on top. The second option is chosen if the foundation has not yet had time to shrink, and when it does, it will not pull the floor system along with it, which will certainly begin to deform from such an impact.
- With a large width of the room (more than 3 meters), columns can be additionally installed between the walls, which will create rigidity for the floor system. For all support structures waterproofing is necessarily laid under the beams of the base of the floor, so that the wooden parts last as long as possible.
What should be the thickness of the lag and floor beams? This mainly depends on the width of the free span (distance between adjacent support points). Usually proceed from the following indicators (see table):
- After the floor beams are installed, the logs need to be fixed on them. The distance between them, as already mentioned, is calculated according to the thickness of the selected floorboards.
- When arranging such a “floating” floor structure, the logs, and then the boards, should be located at a distance of at least 12 ÷ 15 mm from the walls, that is, be independent of them. A material is laid in the opening between the walls and the floor system, which will not allow cold air to enter the room, allow the wood to “breathe”, and expand freely when temperature and humidity changes.
- When laying logs consisting of two separate sections, their overlapping by 400 ÷ 500 mm should be on the support posts or on the beam. The logs should be aligned with the building level, if necessary, to achieve an ideal horizontal, small pieces of wood are placed under the logs.
- After the logs are set and fixed, it is recommended to arrange a subfloor, for which low quality boards are quite suitable. To install them, cranial bars 30 × 50 mm in size are screwed on the entire length of the lag from below.
- The boards of the subfloor are not always fixed to the cranial bars, usually they are simply laid tightly to each other. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the subfloor, fixing it with staples to the logs and boards.
- Between the lags, the vapor barrier is tightly laid - it can be mineral wool in mats or rolls, as well as dry filling from expanded clay or slag.
- Another layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation. Its individual sheets are glued together with adhesive tape, and then the film is attached to the logs with staples.
- The top layer of vapor barrier is necessary so that dust and particles of insulation material cannot enter the living quarters. On top of this entire floor system, floorboards or thick plywood will then be laid.
Prices for various types of timber
Logs fixed to the concrete pavement
Often, to create a layer for the floor in apartments, a wooden floor on logs is also arranged on a concrete base. Here, the whole difficulty lies in leveling the lag on the surface, especially if it is planned to raise the wooden covering a few centimeters above the concrete slab.
If the apartment is located above the first floor, then most often the logs are laid out, leveled, and then fixed to the concrete base using anchors.
Both in the first and in the second version, the lags are drilled through. To raise the log above the base, use different metal and plastic elements. In this case, the photo shows the studs. They allow you to raise and lower the logs on one side or the other, aligning them in level. The extra piece of the hairpin, after removing the lag to the desired height, is cut off with a grinder.
In each of the options, a heater can be laid on the concrete between the lags, which will add thermal insulation to the coating, and also help to drown out the noise, both from the lower apartment and from the rooms where the logs are installed under the wooden floor. Mineral wool, polystyrene or can be used as an insulating material.
Flooring on concrete pavement
Sometimes a wooden floor is laid on a concrete floor without the use of a log. As a covering, floorboards or plywood are used. It is advisable to lay a thin insulating material under such a floor - most often foamed polyethylene is used for this, but it is better to choose one that has a foil coating.
Separate sheets of the substrate material are fastened together with adhesive tape to create a solid coating - it will make the floor warmer and drown out noise. If plywood is used for flooring, you need to remember that it must be laid on top of it. decorative coating. Floors made of sufficiently thick boards will look respectable if they are varnished, waxed or of high quality paint.
Floor board installation
Having chosen the boards of the desired thickness, it is important to determine the correct direction of their laying on the floor. As many years of experience show, the best option laying boards is considered in the direction of natural light, that is, from the window. Therefore, planning the laying of the board should begin with marking and fixing the lag.
The floor boards have different types connections:
1. Connection using an insert-liner in the grooves of two boards.
2. Groove-thorn connection in the presence of tongue-and-groove boards.
3. Connection "in a quarter".
The last type of connection is the easiest to install, so floorboards with such an attachment are most often used. In addition, the "quarter" connection creates a single coating with almost imperceptible gaps between the boards, so it optimally retains heat in the room.
Boards can be fixed to two ways of fastening:
- Nails or self-tapping screws can be driven into the groove located on the side of the board, at an angle of about 45 degrees, with the cap recessed into the wood. Some craftsmen prefer to do the opposite, driving the screws at an angle into the edge of the spike.
- In the second option, nails or self-tapping screws are driven in or screwed into the front plane of the board.
- Starting to install floorboards, it is necessary to step back from the wall 12 ÷ 15 mm. Later, a strip of insulation is laid in this gap, and closed with an installed plinth. It is necessary for the tree to expand with changes in humidity and air temperature.
- The board is attached to the joists with nails 80 ÷ 120 mm or self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 100 mm. Hats are driven under zatay”, later they are sealed with putty matched to the color of the wood.
- If insufficiently seasoned wood is used, then the laid floor requires a drying period that lasts 6 ÷ 8 months. During this time, the coating will shrink and shrink, gaps will increase between the boards, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out the process of relaying it. In this regard, during the initial laying of the flooring, all the floorboards are not completely nailed to the joists, but only the fifth - seventh board is attached. After drying the boards, they must be shifted, pressed as tightly as possible to each other and nailed to the logs.
- If boards with a tenon-groove connection are chosen, for a tighter connection, a mallet is used, with which, through the bar, the spikes are driven into the grooves. Often, special clamps are used for this master, especially in cases where, due to the slight curvature of the boards, the installation goes with smearing the grooves and spikes with carpentry glue.
- For a tight connection last board installed against the wall, temporary wooden wedges are used, they are driven in between the wall and the board.
- The gap between the boards should not be wider than 1 mm. If the board is not installed in the groove to the end, then, most likely, a burr or some kind of roughness remains on the canvas, and this flaw must be removed, the spike must be adjusted to the groove.
Find out and also review the causes of squeaking and how to fix it, from our new article.
Video: flooring with clamps
flooring prices
Floor coverings
Floor surface treatment after final laying
After the floor has been sorted out and secured, it may be necessary to scrape its surface. This process is carried out if, during the drying of the board, it led a little, and the surface became uneven.
The starting varnish helps to reveal insufficiently smooth areas on the surface of the boards, and therefore, after it dries, it is easier to find roughness and carry out their additional sanding.
After grinding, skirting boards are installed, which will well hide the gaps between the wall and the floor boards. If, as a result of this operation, gaps remain between the floor and the plinth, then they are sealed with putty to match the color of the wood.
Now that the floor is prepared in this way, you can proceed to the final coating of the surface with wax, oil, varnish or paint.
Boardwalk floor is covered finishing composition not only to give it aesthetics and respectability, but also to protect it, which means the longest possible operation.
Oil treatment
If the boards have a beautiful pronounced textured pattern, then special oil is often used to cover it. It makes the floors warmer, not as slippery as when coated, and also gives it antistatic properties. The oil penetrates into the structure of the wood and reliably protects it from the penetration of moisture from the outside, practically repelling it.
Wood coated with oil is less susceptible to various damage, and already existing flaws become virtually invisible. The oil does not clog the pores of the wood, preserving its naturalness, allowing the material to "breathe", which creates a favorable microclimate in the living room.
Floors that are covered with oil must be protected from dust until it is completely absorbed. During operation, such a floor requires special care. by special means. It is very important to remember that furniture with metal legs is not recommended to be placed on such a surface, as there is a risk of unwanted reactions, as a result of which dark spots may remain on the wood.
Oil flooring is recommended in rooms with high humidity - this is a bathroom, terrace and kitchen. Such a coating is also well suited for a hallway or corridor, since boards impregnated with such a substance are more resistant to abrasion.
There are flooring compositions that do not consist of pure oil, but with the addition of liquid wax to it, which gives the floor a matte, soft sheen. Pure oils are also applied to the surface of wood, they are well absorbed into the surface, economical in application and do not require a long wait to dry.
Floor oil may be colorless or may have different shades, which make the wood darker or give it a special - pleasant and warm color.
The oil is applied in two or three doses. It can be rubbed or applied with a brush, and its excess is immediately erased to avoid the formation of a film on top, which will create an uneven coating.
The oil composition can be applied hot and cold in several layers. The faster the wood absorbs the oil, the more layers will need to be applied. The heated composition penetrates much faster and deeper into the pores of the tree, and such a coating lasts much longer than with a cold application method.
Waxing the floor surface
Wax is most often combined with an oil coating. So, sometimes waxing occurs with a composition that consists of natural beeswax And linseed oil. Such a coating protects the floor surfaces well from scratches and dirt, as well as from absorbing moisture, but will not protect the wood from cracking and intense mechanical stress. Wax coating gives the surface a pleasant matte sheen and a golden hue.
Wax is applied to the cleaned floor with a wide roller in several layers. The first of them must be very thin in order to be well absorbed into the surface. Next, the floor is sanded, and then it is covered with another layer of the composition and sanded again.
Wax combined with oil is an environmentally friendly topcoat and is very good for use in children's rooms and adult bedrooms. Wood that has undergone such processing has the properties to "breathe", so the floors will last a long time and create a favorable microclimate in the room.
Wood floor varnishing
- The varnish can be applied by brush, roller or trowel at room temperature, moderate humidity and without drafts.
- On the cleaned surface, the first layer is applied nitrolac, which will serve as a kind of primer for the finishing layers of the composition. It is applied in a thin layer along the textured wood pattern. If necessary, the primer can be applied in two layers.
- After the primer dries, the surface is well sanded with sandpaper. After that, the floor is washed with soapy water, thoroughly wiped and dried.
- After that, start applying finishing layers. There can be two or three of them, and each of them is dried and polished.
Applying varnish to floors is a rather complicated undertaking that requires careful selection of the composition for a particular type of wood. Therefore, if this particular method of processing a wooden floor is chosen, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist who will determine the amount of work and select the necessary materials.
The lacquer coating is quite fragile, which is easily damaged by mechanical stress, so it is undesirable to walk on thin heels or move furniture on it. In addition, varnishes are most often produced on chemical bases, which, clogging the pores of wood, do not allow it to "breathe".
Staining a wooden floor
Recently, paint is rarely used to cover a wooden floor, but it still happens, especially in cases where a special interior style is chosen. In addition, paint is used in cases where it is necessary to cover a not very attractive view of wood, since such a coating completely covers the floor surface. For such finishing you can choose colors different bases: oil, enamel, nitrocellulose, as well as acrylic, water-dispersion and latex.
Paint on water based it is preferable for residential premises, as it does not contain solvents and additives harmful to the human body. They are produced in different color shades, so there is always an opportunity to choose the one that is more suitable for a particular interior.
Enamels and other paints based on chemical solvents are also used for living rooms, but after their application, the premises require long-term ventilation, as these fumes can pose a threat to human health.
Before painting the floor with water-based compounds, the boards are coated with a special primer. For the rest of the coating materials, preparation of the base is required with the help of impregnating compounds, in which drying oil usually acts as the main component.
The paint can be applied in one, two coats or, last resort, at three o'clok. It is recommended to choose the “golden mean”, since the paint, applied too thin, will quickly begin to wear out, and thick, on the contrary, peel off. Each coat of primer or paint must dry well before the next is applied.
It is described in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal.
So, if you have the basic concepts of working with wood, as well as the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to try to lay the floors from boards or plywood on your own. If you have any questions, you can always turn for clarification and advice to articles that will help solve any problem. And at the end of the article - one more interesting video according to the technology of laying a wooden floor.
Video: how to prepare and lay a wooden floor
It's no secret that the convenience of living in a house largely depends on high-quality floors. Installation of the basement is carried out using various materials: wood, concrete, special mixtures according to the "self-leveling floor" technology. The floors in a private house should be smooth, durable, retain heat and have aesthetic qualities.
Floor types
The question of what to make the floor in the house from often arises when building your own home. Therefore, there is a need for a detailed study of the varieties of sexes, taking into account their advantages and disadvantages.
wood flooring
Wooden floors look spectacular, they meet environmental requirements, combine practicality and long service life, and allow for repairs as needed.
Installation of a wooden floor implies the presence of the following materials: timber with a thickness of at least 15 cm, edged board not less than 2.5 cm thick, waterproofing and vapor barrier elements, insulation. Timber and boards must be taken dry, their moisture content should not exceed 12%.
As a waterproofing, a polyethylene film or roofing material is suitable. There are many vapor barrier membranes on the market. Insulation can be slabs of mineral wool, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam, expanded clay. You will also need nails and screws, metal corners, a hammer and a screwdriver.
The installation of a wooden coating goes through several stages. The first thing to do is to carefully level the ground, on which is then created sand cushion. It needs to be waterproofed. If roofing material is used, then the overlap between the strips is at least 15 cm.
Further along the perimeter of the house, a strapping beam is installed, to which, with the help of metal corners lags are attached. All bars are pre-treated protective compounds. The distance between the lags should be maintained, equal to the width of the insulation. If mineral wool slabs are used, then they are installed by surprise. This must be taken into account when installing the log.
Then, over the lag and the insulation, the overlap is stretched vapor barrier membrane, the joints of which are glued special adhesive tape. The final stage involves the installation of boards. They are also recommended to be treated with protective compounds. The boards themselves should be nailed as tightly as possible to each other.
Note! Kitchen in a private house - 100 photos of design and layout ideas
When the wooden floor is ready, it can be varnished, or linoleum can be laid on it.
Concrete floors
Most often, concrete floors in a private house are arranged in utility rooms, but this option is also possible in residential areas. Filling the floor is carried out according to the following scheme.
If necessary, a small pit 10 cm deep is first dug in the area of \u200b\u200bfuture pouring. Then a cushion of sand is made at least 5 cm thick, which is carefully rammed. A reinforcing mesh is laid out, beacons are set up, by which it will be possible to monitor the evenness of the surface.
Concrete will gain its nominal strength in 28 days, after which it will be possible to proceed to fine finishing. Options for such finishes are tile or linoleum on a thick base.
Linoleum is used in living rooms, tiles are laid in the hallway, bathroom and toilet, in the kitchen. Linoleum is glued to concrete with special mastics, or simply lies freely, fixed along the walls with a plinth. A special glue is used for laying tiles.
Bulk coating
For the device of such a floor in a private house, special mixtures are used, which are self-leveled after they are applied. This is one of the most popular ways of flooring in country houses. The cost of self-leveling floor directly depends on the manufacturer and brand of the mixture.
In addition, there are options for floors with a pattern or in color, which is also reflected in the price. The basis of self-leveling floors is a concrete screed, the surface of which is treated with special primers to improve adhesion. Using a drill with a special nozzle, dilution is carried out bulk mixture water. The solution is applied to the primed substrate in small portions and rolled out with a spiked roller to remove air bubbles.
Finished floor for the best set strength is covered with plastic wrap, if this is specified in the instructions for the mixture. After the solution has completely hardened, it can be coated with polyurethane varnish to give it a shine.
The coating will be ready for full use in a week, and you can move on it already 12 hours after pouring. The peculiarity of this floor is that it is often used as the main one. But you can also lay carpet on top, lay parquet or laminate.
If there is a financial opportunity and the floors are made in a residential area, then it is best to use three-dimensional or decorative self-leveling floors. To do this, you need to consider what kind of pattern will be located on the floor, and then contact a company specializing in these issues. She will make a photo of the floor in the house, making a printout on a banner of the required size. Subsequently, using a special technology, this banner will be installed on the floor, making the room stylistically very attractive.
Underfloor heating technology
The most convenient and practical option is the device of a warm floor in a private house. Allocate floors with water and electrical system. Electric floors are popular in small rooms of apartments or country houses. The main condition for the installation of electric floors is the presence of a power supply line capable of operating under heavy load.
The electric floor heating system has only the disadvantage that it consumes a lot of electricity.
In the case of floor heating in large rooms, which also lack central heating, it makes sense to use water floors, since they can significantly save electricity.
The water floor as a heat source has water heated by the boiler, circulating through pipes built into the floor. The role of heating elements is assigned metal-plastic pipes(there are applications plastic pipes). They are laid on the subfloor and are connected to the supply and return manifolds through the distribution mechanism. The water circulating in the pipes has a temperature of +35-45°C. More high temperatures would make the floor uncomfortable, and subsequently lead to its destruction.
The water heating system has a number of advantages:
- heating costs are reduced due to the low temperature of the coolant;
- as an independent unit makes it possible to effectively use the living space (in the absence of radiators);
- economical compared to electric floor heating, despite high costs during installation
What kind of floors to make in a private house in each case is always decided on an individual basis. At the same time, it is necessary to measure the purpose of the floors, their price and the quality of the materials used. Knowing the intricacies of all options, the advantages and disadvantages of a particular type of flooring, you can eventually achieve a unique result, while getting the best floors for yourself.
Photo of floors in a private house
To provide comfortable temperature and favorable living conditions in the house, you need a reliable, even and warm coating - the floor. Considering how to lay the floor base, the owners of the buildings decide which floor needs to be laid in own house. It is important to choose the right material, the strength and properties of which determine the level of thermal insulation and the reliability of the base. Let's figure out how to build floors with your own hands in a private house. Consider the technology according to which the installation of a wooden base is carried out, concrete pouring floor, as well as installing plywood on a dry layer of sand.
Choosing a floor base and a method for constructing a good floor
Arrangement of the floor in country cottage, in the country or in your own home - a serious and responsible task that many are trying to solve on their own. However, without studying the features of the technology, it is problematic to give a clear answer on how to make a floor in a private house. It is important to think over not only design issues, but also decide on the method of installing the floor base and the materials used.
A serious and responsible task is the arrangement of the floor in country house
The most common in the private sector are the following, laid on their own, floor options:
- wood. The main advantages of wood flooring are environmental friendliness and increased thermal insulation characteristics. At the same time, wooden boards are characterized by increased hygroscopicity and require effective waterproofing protection. The wooden floor is laid on support beams located above the ground surface, on wooden bars, based on brick pedestals, as well as on planks laid on a concrete or cement screed. Building a wood floor is easy. The plank base is durable, maintainable and attracts attention with its original texture. Correct selection material for the board base determines performance characteristics. It is important to use dried wood, the moisture concentration of which does not exceed 12-14%. It is not allowed to use boards with defects in the form of cracks, falling knots and chips. The material used is coniferous trees, as well as hardwood. Impregnation of the boards with antiseptic compounds ensures the durability of the structure;
Environmental friendliness and increased thermal insulation characteristics are the main advantages of wood flooring - concrete. He is superior in strength characteristics and service life of all types of floor bases. By doing concrete screed of increased height, additional reinforcement of the concrete mass with a reinforcing lattice is made. It prevents cracking of the monolith. However, the concrete base has a serious drawback - increased thermal conductivity. To ensure a comfortable temperature of the concrete floor and reduce heat loss, it is imperative to install insulation in the form of granulated expanded clay, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. A waterproofing material is placed on top of the insulating layer, and then poured concrete mix. It is important to use a fresh concrete solution based on Portland cement grade M400 and higher. To improve the appearance and increase thermal insulation, a concrete base is combined with a wooden one;
- floor base in the form of a dry screed. This type of floor has gained popularity relatively recently and is a progressive solution in the construction industry. Dry screed is also called bulk floor or floating type floor structure. This kind of base attracts with ease of formation and accelerated pace of work. Dry screed is performed on a planned basis, which is waterproofed and then logs are laid. Fine-grained expanded clay, slag or sifted sand are poured into the space between the lags. Then you need to pull off the loose composition and evenly distribute over the entire area. At the final stage of the construction of a dry screed, sheet plywood is laid or installed. is durable and prevents heat loss.
When choosing installation methods and material for the future floor, you should study the design features of the floor base, as well as analyze its advantages and disadvantages.
All kinds of floor base is superior to concrete floor We make floors in a private house using wood
Wooden floors are often preferred due to their attractive appearance and environmental friendliness of the material. To ensure the reliability of the wooden floor, you should not only decide on the wood, but also choose the option design. Wooden floors are built various methods. At the same time, logs made of wooden beams are an integral element of the structure.
Lags are laid on the following foundations:
- beams fixed to the walls of the building;
- columnar supports made of bricks or blocks;
- concrete screed reinforced with reinforcement.
Depending on the wishes of the customer, the builders build a single-layer version of the wooden floor or form a two-layer base of wood, laid on subfloor from unedged board or concrete. Let us dwell in detail on the technological aspects of the structure various options wooden floors.
Due to their attractive appearance, they are preferred wooden floors We lay the floors with our own hands in a private house on the ground on beams
Beginning developers are interested in how to make floors in a house from scratch using wood. They mean the situation when the walls of the building are already erected, the roof is installed, and the floor base is ordinary soil.
So, the construction of a wooden floor on a beam base located above the ground is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- The surface layer of soil 8-10 cm thick is removed.
- The stones are removed and the horizontal surface is ensured.
- A sand-gravel mixture is poured onto the surface of the soil with a layer of 10-15 cm.
- The bedding is leveled, spilled with water and compacted.
- A waterproofing layer of sheet roofing material or polyethylene is laid.
- Logs are laid with an interval of 0.6-0.8 m between the wooden beams.
- The joists are attached to the foundation walls with steel plates.
It is important to ensure the horizontal lag and correctly adjust them in level during installation. For this, wooden supports are used. A floor made of planed boards is mounted on the prepared base.
Wooden floors are fixed to the logs The following types of installation of a plank base are possible:
- with additional floor insulation. The technology for arranging a wooden floor provides for the possibility of laying heat-insulating material in the space between the lags. Mineral wool, expanded clay granules or expanded polystyrene sheets are used as a heater. After insulation, finishing floor boards are attached to the lags;
- without wood insulation. With this method of installing the floor, no insulation is used. Boards are attached to the upper plane of the support bars, which act as a subfloor. Finishing boards are laid on the rough base with a second layer or the finishing coating is installed in the form of OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.
When performing work, gaps of 20-25 mm should be provided between the foundation base and the lags to compensate for thermal expansion.
How to make a warm floor from wood on support pillars
Having decided to make a floor in a private house on their own, many prefer a wooden structure formed on support posts. The specified installation method is used if necessary to raise the floor surface, eliminate distortions of the floor base, as well as with an increased distance between the walls. Indeed, in the absence of additional supports, there is a high probability of a violation of the integrity of the lag under the influence of loads.
If necessary, raise the floor surface, use support racks When constructing a wooden floor on additional concrete supports, follow the following procedure:
- Remove the fertile layer of soil and plan the surface.
- Determine the coordinates of the location of the support pillars.
- Remove the soil according to the markup and prepare pits for the support pipes.
- Fill the bottom of the pits with a mixture of sand and gravel.
- Align the bedding and carefully tamp it down.
- Assemble the formwork of the required height along the perimeter of the pits.
- Lay roofing material inside the formwork for waterproofing.
- Assemble the reinforcement grid and place it in the formwork.
- Pour concrete mortar and tamp it down.
The curing process of concrete lasts 4 weeks. After the concrete has gained operational strength, disassemble the formwork and lay it on concrete surface supports of the required height made of bricks or blocks. On the surface of the formed pedestals, lay a roofing material designed to protect wooden beams from ground moisture.
Floor on pillars When performing work, the following dimensions must be maintained:
- the interval between the supports, equal to 1-1.2 m;
- the distance from the foundation to the extreme pedestals, which is 0.4 m;
- the location of the base of the pits from the zero mark at the level of 0.4-0.5 m;
- thickness of crushed stone and sand cushion - 0.1-0.15 m;
- section of columnar supports, which is 0.4 * 0.4 m or 0.5 * 0.5 m.
It is important to control the location of the upper plane of the supports at the same level. This will prevent distortion and form a flat floor. Remember that the technology allows the lag to be made composite with the connection of the beams on the central support with an overlap of 0.15-0.2 m.
Tips for laying floorboards or plywood on a concrete base
Often, concrete or cement strainer. On a wooden floor, formed on a base of concrete or cement, massive interior items can be installed. A plank, plywood or tile floor, built on logs attached to concrete, reliably insulates the floor of the room and has an increased load capacity.
A concrete or cement screed is often used as a floor base. Observe the following procedure for the construction of a wooden floor based on a screed:
- Level the concrete base and seal the cracks.
- Top up with self-levelling compound if necessary.
- After the mixture has hardened, lay the waterproofing material.
- Mark the surface of the base for laying the log.
- Make holes in the concrete, fasten the studs to fix the planks.
- Drill holes in the beams corresponding to the coordinates of the studs.
- Install the planks on the studs and check the levelness.
- Remove the parts of the studs that protrude beyond the top plane of the bars.
- Fill the space between the joists with a sheet or granular heat insulator.
- Mount to the logs a finishing coating of boards or plywood.
Do not forget to provide gaps to compensate for temperature deformations between the end plane of the log and the walls of the room.
How to make the right floors in a private house - we form a concrete surface
It is advisable to equip for buildings whose walls are built of concrete blocks or bricks.
According to pre-installed beacons, floors are poured in a private house Consider how to make a floor in a private house by pouring a rough screed:
- Remove the sod layer from the soil, plan the surface and tamp the soil.
- Pour a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick on the surface and compact it.
- Lay on compacted rubble polyethylene film for waterproofing.
- Lay a sheet heat insulator or pour expanded clay granules.
- Assemble the reinforcement grid and lay it on the insulation.
- Pour the screed and carefully level the surface.
Remember that the pouring of floors in a private house is carried out according to pre-installed beacons, which make it easier to level the screed using the rule.
Dry floor screed under plywood sheets
The technology for forming floors in rooms using the dry screed method is quite simple. The essence of the method lies in the use of loose material as a floor base, evenly distributed over the area of the room.
Various types of bulk materials are used:
- small granules of expanded clay;
- sand-concrete mixture on a quartz or silica base.
Enough simple technology formation of floors by dry screed A distinctive feature of the materials is the absence of shrinkage after leveling. Such a floor serves for a long time and retains heat well in the room.
The procedure for constructing a floor using a dry screed method:
- Lay a layer of waterproofing on the prepared surface.
- Fasten the strips that act as guides.
- Fill the space between the beacons with a dry mixture and level it.
- Tamp the loose material of the floor base.
- Attach the plywood boards to the rails with self-tapping screws.
- Seal the joints between plywood sheets.
- Lay the topcoat on the prepared base.
When performing work, check the horizontal laying of the plates with a level and move from front door deep into the room.
Summing up
Regardless of the chosen option for arranging the floor, work should be carried out in strict accordance with the requirements technological process and use quality materials. It is important to properly waterproof the floor, as well as insulate it. Deciding on the design of the floor, give preference to environmentally friendly, warm and durable materials. A properly installed floor will last a long time and will not cause trouble during operation.
To build a private house, you have to work hard, and all the processes performed require significant costs.
In an effort to save money, some do some of the work on their own, so the question arises, how to make a floor in a private house without calling on construction teams to help?
This work can be done by anyone who has all the necessary materials, suitable tools and certain knowledge.
Sex Varieties
Scheme of the device of a single and double plank floor Before starting work, you should decide what design the main coating will have.
Among the most popular species, it is necessary to highlight the following types floors:
- single;
- double;
- concrete.
The choice of each of them is due to the design features of the building in which future installation is planned, and the conditions for further operation.
Features of the device floors
Single floors are recommended only for summer cottages
A single floor is usually quite simple design, for the implementation of which there is no need to spend a lot of materials and time. The floorboard is fixed directly to the logs with nails.
The disadvantage of such a floor from the boards is the limited use. This coating is most often used only in the country, or in small houses and fully performs only the functions of holding the gravity of all objects and people inside the room, in combination with moderate cheapness.
In a room where year-round living is planned, such structures are used less and less.
Double floors consist of finishing and rough screed, have thermal insulation A double floor is a construction suitable for laying in a room in which people will be all year round. What to make the floor from so that it is warm even when it is cold outside?
This design consists of two layers: a rough and a finishing screed. Between them, waterproofing and heat-insulating materials are laid. They perfectly protect not only the floor from destruction, but the whole house from blowing and dampness.
Floor device diagram The rough coating is made of unedged boards, and the finishing one is made of grooved boards. All the processes that the construction of a floor in a private house needs can be done by hand.
The concrete floor is a common screed. For its implementation, first, preparatory work is carried out to dismantle the old coating and place the guides, then it is laid waterproofing layer and a solution is made with which the prepared area is filled.
To ensure that the floor is of high quality and ready for further finishing works, he should be given the time necessary for setting.
Table of consumption of concrete for a jellied floor.
Single floor unit made of wood
The instructions below will allow you to understand the question of how to properly make the floor in a private house, subject to the order of all actions.
- The device of a single floor will be carried out on poles, which, as a rule, are mounted during the construction of the main structure. At the same time, the interval between the pillars should be kept at the level of 80 cm. Subsequently, beams 10 cm thick are laid on each of the supports.
- On top of this structure, we lay a grid of logs, which should be a section of 5x5 cm. If the board prepared for the floor has a section of 3 cm, then the distance between the logs should be maintained at 50 cm. Set the system under the level using special wedges and firmly fix with nails.
- A rough floor from an unedged board is laid on this structure with their own hands, and on top of this layer they lay flooring, usually linoleum or laminate.
For such floors, thermal insulation does not play a big role, since they are built for temporary or auxiliary buildings.
However, when placed in residential buildings, before laying the subfloor, the space between the lags should be filled with sheets of foam or expanded polystyrene. Positive properties are low cost and speed of construction.
double wood floor
The device of this design is somewhat more complicated. It includes, along with a rough screed, layers of vapor, heat and hydro protection with a finishing layer located on top. The last layer, as a rule, is made of grooved boards.
How to build a floor to keep it cool in summer and provide a pleasant microclimate in winter? More about correct device see sex in this video:
All processes can be done with your own hands, if you follow the step-by-step instructions:
When placing the boards, it should be taken into account that between the vapor barrier and the layer of finished boards there should be an air pocket of at least 2-3 cm.
For good ventilation in air pocket special through holes should be made, which must be covered with a decorative crate.
Concrete floor
Initially, marking is done for the manufacture of such a coating. For this you should use laser level, which will exactly help to set the marks along which the threads will subsequently be pulled.
Calculation and tools
Concrete floor installation To carry out all processes, you must have:
- vibrorammer;
- ruberoid;
- small expanded clay;
- polyethylene film;
- foam boards;
- reinforced mesh;
- spirit or laser level;
- slats.
Only when making a durable, perfectly even concrete floor can one hope for high-quality arrangement floor covering.
Concrete floor installation
Before you make the floors in a private house, you need to read the instructions that will help you do all the processes in strict accordance with the rules and regulations:
- Initially, the base of the surface on which the concrete floor will be performed is prepared. For this, a rough base is prepared, which can be made from layers of broken bricks or crushed stone using M100 concrete.
- The next stage involves the installation of a waterproofing layer. It is very practical in this case to use roofing material.
- After that, you need to take care of thermal insulation. You can use expanded clay or foam boards for this purpose. In the middle lane, it is advisable to place both of these layers at the same time, starting with the foam.
- On top of the laid layers, it is best to place a small wooden crate, followed by laying the chain-link mesh.
- On top of the erected frame, starting from the corner farthest from the entrance, a smooth pouring of concrete begins with simultaneous leveling with the rule along the marked beacon lines. Filling is carried out in one run.
- The final stage is the leveling of the top layer with a liquid cement mortar or a special self-leveling compound. For information on how to properly fill the subfloor, see this video:
To successfully complete the tasks of pouring the floor, you should be guided by the attached instructions and purchase quality Consumables and fixtures.
The wooden floor on the logs allows you to do without without use reinforced concrete floor or device of another concrete base, the cost of construction of which is quite high.
Efficient ventilation of wooden on logs in a private house - a necessary and indispensable condition for the reliability and durability of the structure.
Wooden floor on joists
The figure shows a variant of the construction of a wooden floor on logs in a private house with an underground space.
The space under the floor is formed due to the fact that the logs are laid on fairly high columns of brick or concrete blocks. This design allows you to raise the floor level of the first floor with a minimum amount of backfilling with soil in the basement space.
Here, the plinth and plinth space under the floor are outside, outside the heat-shielding shell of the house, and will be cold.
To ventilate the underground space in opposite outer walls, above ground level, air vents are made - closed through holes metal mesh for rodent protection. The same holes should be in the internal load-bearing walls.
The movement of air under the floor is mainly due to wind pressure.
In winter, there is a danger of soil freezing in the underground space, which can lead to the movement of the floor relative to the walls on heaving soils.
To prevent freezing, it is recommended to close the vents for the winter, and insulate the base.
However, the deterioration of ventilation as a result of the closing of the vents leads to the accumulation of moisture in the insulation and wooden parts - to a decrease in thermal resistance and durability of these elements.
I must say that such an underground space device has been used in private construction since ancient times. The design was not originally designed for use effective thermal insulation gender.
In houses with poor thermal insulation of the floor in winter, part of the heat from the room penetrated into the underground space and heated it, preventing freezing, but increasing heat loss.
Modern thermal insulation of the floor practically blocks the flow of heat into the underground from the premises.It is possible to prevent the freezing of the subfloor only by saving the heat of the earth.
At modern requirements for energy saving, a cold underground ventilated through the air is not the best option. It is still used rather by inertia.
The scheme of effective ventilation of the subfloor in the basement of a private house through the exhaust duct To ventilate the underground of a private house, a cottage, it is advantageous to use effective ventilation through an exhaust duct. This ventilation scheme is the only the right option for a house with an insulated basement or with a basement.
How to make a wooden floor on posts
In old books and building regulations, you can find floor designs on posts using NOT effective heat and waterproofing materials.
Modern floors on logs in a private house do this
Support columns are laid out from ceramic brick or concrete blocks. The distance between adjacent posts along the log (span) is recommended to be no more than 2 m. The base of the column can be a layer of compacted crushed stone 50-100 mm, spilled bituminous mastic. Or instead of mastic, a waterproofing film is used.
The top of the columns is leveled in one level with a solution. With a solution thickness of more than 3 cm. plunged into the solution masonry mesh. The top of the columns is covered with a sheet of waterproofing material.
Wooden beams-logs are laid on the waterproofing layer. The distance between adjacent beams-lags (lag step) is determined by their cross section, as well as the bearing capacity and rigidity of the overlying layers of the floor - lathing, subfloor, finish coating. Usually they take a step convenient for laying between the lags of standard mineral wool insulation boards, about 600 mm.
For the above lag step and span between the posts, taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the crate, with normal floor loads, the lag section is sufficient 100-150x50 mm. A galvanized steel mesh is attached to the bottom of the logs lying on the posts. Instead of a grid, you can nail boards into the run-up, slats with a thickness of at least 20 mm.
On top of the mesh (boards) and the log, a windproof, highly vapor-permeable film is laid.
This film prevents makes it difficult for the particles of the insulation to be carried away by the air flow (formation of dust), but does not prevent the evaporation of moisture from the insulation and wooden parts.
The panel of a windproof vapor-permeable film is laid on top, across the log, and lowered on both sides of each log until it stops in steel mesh so that a tray is formed between the lags. The film is nailed with a stapler to each side of all the logs.
In the formed channel between the lags, a windproof film is laid mineral wool insulation. You can do without a windproof film if you use special insulation boards with a compacted windproof layer for the bottom layer.
How to determine the thickness of the floor insulation
The thickness of the floor insulation is chosen according to the calculation, providing the normative resistance to heat transfer R = 4-5 m 2 about K / W. If the basement is not insulated, then the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor is determined from the condition that the temperature of the space under the floor is equal to the temperature of the outside air. The recommended thickness of mineral wool insulation in this case is not less than 150-200 mm.
For a house with an insulated foundation and plinth, the thickness of the floor insulation can be reduced so that the sum of the heat transfer resistances of the plinth + floor is no less than the norm (see above).
How to calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor (ceiling)
A crate of bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm is laid across the log. Between the bars of the crate place another layer of insulation. Such a two-layer construction of insulation provides insulation with overlapping cold bridges through the logs. The distance between the bars of the crate is chosen within 300-600 mm., a multiple of the width of the subfloor slabs.
Such a two-layer construction of the floor base (logs + lathing bars) allows you to conveniently place both insulation boards and floor covering boards (DSP, plywood, etc.).
The insulation with the crate on top is covered with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the film panels are sealed. The junctions of the film to the walls are connected to the waterproofing of the wall and the same is sealed.
It is recommended to choose the thickness of the lathing bars by 25-30 mm. greater than the thickness of the top layer of insulation. This will allow, by lowering the film on both sides of each lathing bar, to create a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier film and the floor covering.
Vapor-thermal insulation with foam
Instead of the top layer of insulation and vapor barrier film, it is more profitable to lay penofol - a foamed polymer covered with aluminum foil, 10 mm. (produced under other trade names).
Penofol must be laid with the aluminized side up, towards the ventilated gap, across the bars of the crate and lowered on both sides of each bar. After that, penofol is nailed to each side of all the bars with a stapler so that a gap of 3-4 is formed between the aluminized surface and the floor tiles. cm.. The joints of the foam panels are sealed with aluminized adhesive tape. A layer of foam foam will provide heat transfer resistance equivalent to a layer of mineral wool with a thickness of 40 mm., and the necessary vapor permeability.
Subfloor boards are attached to the lathing bars over a vapor-tight film or penofol. Instead of boards, plates are more often used: cement-bonded CBPB(thickness > 22 mm.), plywood (> 18 mm.), etc. Sheets, plates are placed with the long side on the bars of the crate. Spacers are fixed under the short side between the bars of the crate. All edges of the laid sheet must have a support under them - a bar or spacer.
Use as foam insulation polystyrene boards Not recommended. Such boards serve as a barrier to moisture, which is always contained in the wood of the floor. By preventing the release of moisture from the wood, foam insulation reduces the life of the wooden parts of the floor. In addition, mineral wool insulation, due to better elasticity, adjoins the logs more tightly than polystyrene.
To protect the underground space from ground moisture, it is advisable to cover the entire surface of the soil with a waterproofing film (and not just under the posts, as in the figure). The joints of the coating panels are sealed. The adjunction of the film to the walls must be connected to the waterproofing of the wall and also sealed. The floor posts lie directly on the film.
As a result, we get a ventilated underground space, limited by sealed shells - from above (vapor barrier) and from below (waterproofing).
Such an underground space protects the house not only from moisture and cold, but also from penetration into living quarters.
Floor along the lags on the intermediate walls
IN modern designs beam-lag floors are located at a small distance from each other, which allows the use of lumber of a smaller section, and hence the cost, and it is also convenient to place insulation boards.
Instead of brick columns, it can be advantageous to lean the logs on intermediate walls laid out across the log with an interval of about 2 m. Bricks or blocks in the wall are laid in a honeycomb laying method half a brick thick, leaving increased gaps of 1/4 bricks in vertical joints to ventilate the underground space. If the wall has a height of more than 0.4 m., then at least every 2 m. the length of the wall, lay out pilasters - brick-thick columns, to increase the stability of the wall.
If the step lag is not more than 600 mm. and span less than 2 m., then the cross section of the wooden log is enough to have 100x50 mm.
Wooden floor on the ground on logs
Another version of the wooden floor along the logs in a private house is shown in the following figure:
Here, unlike the first option, the floor level is raised to the required height by backfilling the basement with compacted soil.
Floor ventilation is carried out due to the movement of air under the action of the draft of the ventilation duct.
Warm air is taken from the room and through ventilation holes in baseboards and the gap between the subfloor covering and the wall enters the space between the joists. Next, the air enters the ventilation duct.
To ensure ventilation of the underground space, skirting boards with holes are used or skirting boards are installed with a gap between them and the walls.
In order for the air to move more or less evenly under the entire surface of the floor, the gap for the passage of air is made of different widths - the farther from the ventilation duct, the wider the gap (2 cm.). Near the ventilation duct, holes in the baseboards and gaps between the wall and the floor covering are not made (or the gap is sealed with tape).
It is important to understand that in this ventilation option, unlike the first, the underground space is located inside the heat-shielding shell of the house, and must necessarily be warm. The outer shell of the subfloor must have a resistance to heat transfer no less than the wall of the house. Otherwise, the flow of warm air from the room may lead to condensation on the parts of the subfloor.
Make a layer of bulk soil thicker than 600 mm. Not recommended. Soil is poured and carefully rammed in layers no more than 200 thick. mm. It is still not possible to compact bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of loose soil can lead to too much and uneven subsidence of the floor.
The waterproofing film is laid on a leveling layer of sand with a thickness of at least 30 mm. The joints of the film panels are sealed. The junctions of the film to the walls must be connected to the waterproofing of the wall and also sealed.
Thermal insulation is laid on waterproofing.
In this option, it is better to use polymer insulation boards - polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam). The thickness of the insulation is enough 50-100 mm., since the temperature of the soil under the house is always positive.
If the walls and basement of the house are not insulated, then along the outer walls to a width of at least 800 mm. a thicker layer of insulation should be laid, 150 - 200 mm.
At a house with multilayer outer walls with insulation outside, in order to exclude a cold bridge bypassing the wall and floor insulation, must be insulated outside(see the figure in the first part of the article).
The floor logs lie on low brick or concrete block linings.
If slabs of extruded polystyrene foam (XPS, penoplex, etc.) are used as thermal insulation, then the logs can be laid on linings cut from these slabs.
Between the thermal insulation and wooden floor joists, a gap of 3-5 cm. For free movement air.
According to building regulations, there is one restriction on the floor device. Since the space under the floor is ventilated through the exhaust duct natural ventilation, then it is forbidden to finish the floor covering from combustible materials: from boards, parquet boards and shields, etc. Or, a non-combustible base should be provided under them, for example, a prefabricated screed made of plasterboard, gypsum-fiber sheets or a draft floor made of cement particle boards.
In this option, the logs and other floor elements are in better humidity conditions than in the first case.
In this design, the ventilation duct serves to ventilate not only the underground, but also the premises of the house. About what needs to be done to save the heat emitted by the ventilation system,
Floors, soils and foundations
Floors on the ground are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "walk" under the influence of forces. To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part
The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.
When building a house on heaving soils, it is also necessary to have the underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.
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| In a house with external multi-layer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and the bearing part of the wall, bypassing the wall and floor insulation. |
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