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Insulation of the floor of a frame house with mineral wool. Scheme of warming a frame house with mineral wool: installation features. Internal and external insulation - features and nuances

In a previous article, I described step-by-step instructions for assembling a frame house with my own hands. Now, we will consider instructions on how to properly insulate it and isolate it from wind and moisture, so that during operation, it for a long time remained reliable protection from frost in the cold season, and also saved from the languishing heat in summer.

What insulation to use for a frame house

I will not describe here which insulation is best for a frame house, this is a separate topic, and it is discussed in detail in another article.

But it is worth noting that about 80% of the total frame houses, are insulated mineral wool or heaters based on it. Considering this, this step-by-step instruction, will mainly be based on such insulation.

• In addition to mineral wool, there are several more types of insulation that are more or less suitable for use as thermal insulation of frame houses, such as ecowool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay and others. We will talk about the differences in the technology of their use at the end of the article.
• The insulation of a frame house with glass wool occurs in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, so we will not consider this type of insulation separately.
• Mineral wool, in comparison with other types of heaters, is the most versatile material. She insulates not only frame houses, but also any others. As a heater, it is used almost everywhere in the construction of private houses.

It is important to know that when working with mineral wool, especially indoors, it is necessary to use products personal protection such as gloves, goggles and respirator. Skin contact can result in severe itching, redness, and allergic reactions.

In principle, the insulation of all parts of a frame house is not much different from each other, but there are still some nuances, so it is necessary to consider each part separately.

Warming the floor of a frame house with your own hands

The floor insulation technology largely depends on the type of foundation, but since most frame houses are currently being built on a pile-screw foundation, we will build on this when insulating the floor.

1. Insulation of the floor of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, begins with waterproofing. In addition to the waterproofing membrane, we still need to build a structure under the floor logs that will hold both the waterproofing material and the insulation itself, as shown in the diagram.
2. If the house is located high relative to the ground, and you can crawl under it, then first a waterproofing membrane is stretched under the floor logs and fastened with a furniture stapler. The overlap of the waterproofing strips should be as tight as possible so that it does not see through from under the floor. Which side is inward, and which outward material is stuffed - ask the manufacturer.
3. Also from below, a board breaks through on top of the waterproofing. The size of the board and the installation step does not really matter, but no more than 40-50 cm, if only this is enough so that the sheets or strips of mineral wool do not fall through. Sometimes the board is stuffed tightly, without gaps, this strengthens the floor structure. Here's what the end result should be:
   
4. If it is impossible to crawl under the house, then a board is first stuffed under the logs, and then a waterproofing membrane is attached to the logs from the inside of the frame house, as shown in the photo.
   
5. When the base for the insulation is ready, mineral wool is laid between the joists of the floor of the frame house. It is necessary to lay tightly, the presence of voids is not allowed. Mineral wool cut sharp knife, you can use the construction one, but always a little more than the required length, about 1 cm.
   
6. For ease of installation, the distance between the lags is selected in advance, depending on the insulation, in our case, the width of the mineral wool slab is 60 cm. This means that the distance between the lags, ideally, should be 58-59cm.
   
7. The thickness of the insulation layer depends entirely on the region where the frame house is being built, but on average it is 15 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the height of the log floor of the frame house. As a rule, the thickness of all layers of mineral wool does not exceed, and sometimes even slightly less than, the width of the board or timber from which they are made.
   
8. An important point in laying mineral wool is that each layer must overlap the joints of the previous one, as shown in the photo. The overlap should be at least 15-20 cm.
   
9. On top of the mineral wool, inside the frame house on the logs, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside, and also serve as additional wind protection. In order for it to be airtight, the joints must be glued with double-sided tape, for example.
   
10. Plywood, OSB-board, or a board is sewn onto the vapor barrier membrane, which will be the basis for further finishing.
    

It is worth noting that mineral wool itself is not a wind protection, therefore, the waterproofing and vapor barrier membrane must be stretched so that there is an overlap on the walls, excluding moisture and wind from entering between the wall and the floor of the frame house.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

In a frame house, as in any other, there are two types of walls - external, one side of which is located on the street, and internal, which are located completely inside the house. So, it is necessary to insulate both of them.

The walls of a frame house can be insulated both from the inside and outside, the materials used and their quantity do not change from this. We will consider the insulation from the inside, everything is done from the outside in exactly the same way, only in a slightly different sequence.

Insulation of the outer walls of the house

It should be noted right away that when sheathing a frame house from the outside and from the inside with your own hands, various materials are used, they may be different from those that I describe in this manual. The procedure may also differ, but in general, it turns out almost the same thing, as in the diagram. This exemplary scheme, for example, instead of OSB-plates, on the one hand, you can pierce the crate with slats or a board 25 mm thick. The board, as a rule, breaks through a certain distance - about 40 cm between the axes, but it is worth remembering that in this case, the rigidity of the walls will suffer a little.

The process of insulating walls with mineral wool with your own hands is almost identical to the thermal insulation of the floor, and is carried out as follows:

1. Outside, the frame is sheathed with OSB-plates, with gaps between them specified by the manufacturer, as a rule, it is 2-3 mm. After installation, the gaps can be foamed. This is what it looks like from the inside of the house:
   
2. Then, also from the outside, a waterproofing membrane is stretched, which will protect the mineral wool, the frame of the house, as well as OSB sheets from external moisture, on top of which external Finishing work such as siding installation, for example. Some manufacturers make waterproofing materials with self-adhesive strips so that the joint is tighter. If there are no such stripes, it is advisable to glue the joints with double-sided tape.
   
3. Inside the frame house, between the frame posts, which, if you did everything correctly, are located at a distance of 58-59 cm from each other, sheets of mineral wool are tightly inserted.
   
4. It is better to use mineral wool with a density of at least 35-50kg/m3. A less dense insulation will settle or roll down, which will lead to the appearance of voids and cold bridges. As a rule, manufacturers write on the packaging what material can be used for.
   
5. As well as with the floor, the layers of mineral wool should be laid so as to overlap the previous joint of the sheets, at least 15-20cm. The total thickness of the insulation depends on the climate zone, but the average value is also 15cm.
6. After all the insulation has been laid in the walls, it is necessary to fill with mounting foam all the small voids formed at the junctions of boards and beams.
   
7. A prerequisite for insulation with mineral wool is that from the inside of the house, over the insulation, it is necessary to stretch the vapor barrier membrane, which will protect the insulation from moisture coming from inside the house. On top of which, the same OSB sheets are most often stuffed as outside, but you can also use a board, slats and similar materials, depending on the further finishing. An important point in the installation of the vapor barrier membrane is that it is not overtightened at the inner corners, and the vapor barrier completely repeats the angle of the frame. Otherwise, in the future, it will be difficult to nail the sheathing at the corners.
   

It is worth noting that this whole procedure can be done the other way around, first pull the vapor barrier membrane from the inside, then the inner sheathing material, and the process of insulating the walls with mineral wool can be done from the outside.

Insulation of the internal walls of a frame house

Distinctive features of the insulation of the internal walls of a frame house are:

If not possible, or to soundproofing internal partitions there are no strict requirements, it will be enough to use the same insulation as for external walls. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer can be much less.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a frame house

Insulation of the ceiling of a frame house is practically no different from other types of houses with wooden floors, and is one of the most crucial moments in the thermal insulation of the whole house as a whole.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly insulate the ceiling of a frame house with mineral wool:

Because warm air has the properties to rise up, if the ceiling or roof is not properly insulated, the maximum amount of heat will leave the house.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the roof of a frame house

Very often, instead of the ceiling, and sometimes together with the ceiling, the roof of the frame house is also insulated with mineral wool. This is usually done in cases where the attic space is residential and heated.

The insulation technology practically does not differ from the thermal insulation of the ceiling, except that a waterproofing material must be stretched over the insulation to protect the insulation from an external aggressive environment.

This is how the heat-insulating layer of mineral wool on the roof of a frame house looks like in the diagram:

Here are a few features that will help facilitate the process of warming with your own hands:

It is worth noting that it is possible to insulate the roof from the inside, if it is fully assembled. But this is much more inconvenient, because you will have to come up with some kind of temporary fasteners before pulling on the vapor barrier material so that the insulation does not fall out.

Features of using other types of heaters

All preparatory work in terms of thermal insulation of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, they are no different. Differences, and even then insignificant, in the laying of the insulation itself, which will be discussed further.

Now let's look at the main differences between insulation with other materials, which can also be used as thermal insulation for frame houses.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) and EPS

If you dig around on the Internet, you will find a lot of controversy about foam insulation not only for wooden houses, but also for others. Indeed, polystyrene for frame houses is not the most the best option, although it will be the warmest, with the same thickness of insulation, and why is a separate topic for conversation.

The process of insulation with foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam is practically no different, so they can be combined. Here are some features of expanded polystyrene and insulation based on it:

1. Styrofoam does not always lie between the lags as tightly as mineral wool, so all cracks and voids must be removed using mounting foam or similar materials.
2. Styrofoam - combustible material, this must be remembered and even potential sources of combustion should not come into contact with it.
3. When using foam, you need to take care of improved ventilation, because this material practically does not allow air to pass through.
4. Despite the fact that expanded polystyrene practically does not pass or absorb moisture, it cannot be left as the only waterproofing at home. Waterproofing and vapor barrier layers should still be present, because they protect not only the insulation, but also the tree itself, from which the frame of the house is assembled.
5. Styrofoam is very fond of rodents who make their moves in it, so care must be taken that they do not get to it.

These are the basic rules and differences of use polystyrene boards and heaters based on them. Otherwise, everything is done in the same way as in the case of mineral wool insulation.

Features insulation of a frame house with ecowool

Ecowool - relatively new material for warming not only frame houses. It can be used as a heater in almost all areas of private construction, including frame construction.

1. Despite the fact that ecowool insulation can be done without special equipment, I would still not recommend doing this. Firstly, because with the help of special equipment, ecowool is applied more evenly and blows out all the voids. Secondly, manually prepared ecowool has less good characteristics, both in terms of shrinkage and thermal insulation.
2. Ecowool absorbs moisture very well, therefore waterproofing and vapor barrier materials, as well as their installation, must be approached with special responsibility.
3. It is necessary to apply ecowool with a margin, because it will shrink over time, up to 10-15%.
4. When applying it, you must use personal protective equipment.

It should be noted that when insulating a frame house with ecowool, it is necessary to hire responsible and highly qualified specialists who will take into account all its features during installation.

Insulation of a frame house with expanded clay

This insulation technology is currently used extremely rarely, because now huge selection materials with much the best performance but I'll tell you a little about it anyway.

1. Expanded clay in dry form, as a heater, can be used either for floor or ceiling insulation, it is also possible for them to insulate interfloor ceilings. Using it in the walls is problematic, and, in my opinion, not justified.
2. Very often, expanded clay insulation is combined, for example, with sawdust, ash, etc.
3. The difference between expanded clay insulation is that the floor and ceiling, from below under the logs, must be pierced either with a butt board or with some plywood materials.
4. Expanded clay is better to use a fine fraction, thereby there will be fewer voids.

In addition to those described by me, there are many more materials and methods for insulating frame houses with your own hands. But they are all so similar that it makes little sense to describe each of them.

For year-round operation of a frame house and its long-term service, high-quality insulation is necessary. Everything needs to be insulated - walls, ceiling, roof, floor. What materials and technologies are applicable to solve the problem, and what heat insulators should be abandoned? We will answer these questions and give step-by-step instructions for warming a house with your own hands.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The frames of houses built according to the "Canadian" technology are assembled from OSB or wood boards. In order for the insulation not to cause damage to structures, it must have sufficient vapor permeability - not less than 0.32 Mg.

Fibrous heat insulators - mineral wool materials - absolutely correspond to this requirement. Popular synthetic insulations, such as foam and polymer-based analogues, cannot be used in wooden structures for two reasons:

1. Firstly, due to the lack of elasticity, the heat insulator will not be able to adapt to the temporary deformations of the wood (shrinkage, increase in volume). As a result - the formation of cracks and cold bridges.
2. Secondly, polystyrene and its analogues do not allow the tree to "breathe". This leads to the accumulation of moisture, the appearance of mold and rotting of structural elements.

When choosing how to insulate a frame house, in addition to vapor permeability, additional properties of the heat insulator should be taken into account. The following indicators are welcome:

• fire safety;
• environmental friendliness;
• low thermal conductivity;
• shrinkage resistance;
• minimum water absorption.

The choice of optimal insulation

Mineral wool heat insulators are the most acceptable option for warming a frame house. Materials are made from different raw materials, which determine basic characteristics and scope. The common advantages of all types of mineral wool include: low weight, fire safety, resistance to pests and the necessary vapor permeability.

The main disadvantage of fibrous insulators- hygroscopicity. To preserve the properties of the insulation, mineral wool needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Basalt wool - environmental friendliness and fire resistance

The main component of the insulation are rocks of volcanic origin: basalt, diarite and basalt. Stone wool is an absolutely non-combustible material that can withstand temperatures of 1000 ° C. The heat insulator retains physical properties for 40-50 years.
The main advantages of mineral wool based on basalt:

• low thermal conductivity - 0.36-0.42 W / m * C;
• strength to mechanical stress;
• good soundproofing characteristics;
• resistance to temperature fluctuations.

The composition of the insulation includes hydrophobic additives that provide rapid moisture removal. Basalt heat insulator is produced in slabs, the density of the material is 35-50kg/cu. m.
Flaw stone wool in comparison with analogues made of fiberglass - less elasticity and susceptibility to rodents.

Glass wool - elasticity and moisture resistance

The basic components of a heat insulator are cullet and sand. The addition of binding components makes it possible to form rolls from the finest glass fibers. Approximate dimensions of the mats: thickness - 100 mm, width - 1200 mm, length - 10 m.

Glass wool features:

• high elasticity - the material easily takes and quickly restores the given shape, which is very convenient during installation;
• vibration resistance;
• resistant to mold and unattractive to rodents.

Like stone wool, fiberglass is fire resistant. However, in comparison with the previous insulation, loses on several points:

1. Material unsafety - installation is carried out in a respirator and protective clothing. The fibers are very fragile and a lot of "glass" dust is released during cutting.
2. Shrinkage of the heat insulator - over time, the risk of formation of cold bridges increases.

Ecowool - universality of application

A new word in the segment of thermal insulation materials -. The material is 80% recycled paper. Additional components: boric acid and sodium tetraborate. Minor ingredients provide protection against microbial attack and reduce flammability.

Distinctive features of ecowool:

1. Ecowool is a loose insulation, and therefore the technology of its application is fundamentally different from working with sheet mineral wool. To create a heat-insulating layer, special equipment is required - a pneumatic inflatable device.
2. With poor-quality insulation of the walls of a frame house, there is ecowool shrinkage risk, which is fraught with the formation of non-insulated zones.
3. The material is not recommended for use near open sources of fire, chimneys and chimneys. Requires a protective layer of basalt foil refractory mats or a fence of asbestos-cement slabs.

The main advantages of ecowool: environmental friendliness, the possibility of insulation hard-to-reach places and high soundproofing qualities.

"Warm Tree" - an alternative to mineral wool

This group is represented wood fiber mats and boards. Technical performance characteristics insulation at a sufficiently high level:

• good thermal insulation - thermal conductivity is comparable to that of mineral wool;
• preservation of the structure even when wet - the properties of the insulation do not change when moisture is absorbed in the amount of 20% of its own weight;
• high strength and excellent sound insulation - protection against shock and "air" noise;
• sufficient density and elasticity - the insulation is attached between the racks of the frame without additional clamps;
• environmental friendliness of the material and the safety of installation work.

Wood-fiber insulation "breathes" and helps maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house. The disadvantages of a heat insulator include: high cost and the ability to ignite.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: step by step instructions

In most cases, for insulation frame structures used mineral wool in the form of mats. Therefore, the following briefing will be based on working with this material.

Preparatory activities

First of all, you should understand the structure of the insulating cake, calculate the material and prepare the surface for laying. It does not matter which side to start work - from the outside or from the inside. Some believe that it is more convenient to carry out thermal insulation from the side of the street. However, weather factors must be taken into account.

The standard structure of the heat-insulating cake with the sequence of layers from the inner lining to the facade of the house:

• Decorative interior decoration.
• OSB board.
• Vapor barrier.
• insulation layer.
• Windproof membrane.
• Lathing of bars for arranging a ventilation gap.
• OSB board.
• External cladding.

Recommended step frame beams- 580-590 mm. This range is best suited when using standard mineral wool mats 60 cm wide. According to the standards, the thickness of the insulation for a temperate climate is 150 mm. To fill the space between the beams of 15 cm, it is advisable to use mineral wool of two sizes: 50 and 100 mm.

Surface preparation is reduced to cleaning from dust, removing protruding nails and blowing out the cracks with mounting foam between the frame elements. Before fixing the insulation, it is necessary to check the wooden structures for dampness, problem areas dry with a hair dryer.

Interior finish: layer sequence

First you need to prepare the basis for laying the insulation. WITH inside at home this role will be played vapor barrier film and OSB boards.

Procedure:

1. Roll out a roll of insulation material and cut it to fit the walls of the house.
2. Alternately fix the vapor barrier webs on the vertical racks of the frame using a stapler. Installation rules: insulating strips are directed perpendicular to the wooden beams, the minimum overlap is 10 cm.
3. Check the tightness of the protective layer.
4. Cut OSB boards with a jigsaw.
5. Fasten the panels to the frame, overlapping the vapor barrier film.

In the future, OSB boards will serve as the basis for applying finishing walls.

Insulation installation rules

An important advantage of using mineral wool or wood fiber insulation is the ease of do-it-yourself fastening. Both heat insulators are quite elastic, so they do not need additional fixation. The slabs are inserted between the frame posts and are held in place by a slight difference in size.

In order for the heat-insulating layer not to lose its effectiveness over time, certain rules for its installation must be observed:

1. Laying is carried out in two layers, the plates are placed in a checkerboard pattern. The second row of mineral wool should overlap the connecting seams of the first in the middle. This technique prevents the appearance of "cold bridges" that contribute to the accumulation of condensate and dampness.
2. Insulation plates need protection from strong winds and precipitation. By analogy with inner wall, the heat insulator is sheathed with a special hydro-windproof membrane.

Film insulation is fixed with a stapler. For more secure fastening, you can use the system of counter-battens.

External wall cladding

Beams attached over the wind barrier create the necessary air gap between the heat-insulating material and the exterior finish. Further insulation of the facade depends on the material of the finishing cladding.

Under and siding of various types, moisture-resistant OSB plates are nailed to the crate, to which guide bars are attached. Artificial, natural stone or facade tiles laid directly on oriented strand boards.

Thermal insulation of the roof of the house

Of great importance in maintaining heat is high-quality roof insulation. Thoughtful and well-executed thermal insulation of the roof of a frame house saves 25-30% of thermal energy.
A popular option for insulation is the placement of mineral wool between the rafter legs. The roofing cake must be supplemented with a vapor barrier film and a diffusion membrane.

Let us describe successively how to properly insulate a roof:

1. Stretch a water-repellent diffusion film along the outer end of the rafters. Secure the membrane with a counter-batten.
2. From the inside truss system put in a heater. Thermal insulation is placed in two layers 100 mm thick, the installation scheme is a checkerboard layout.
3. Cover the mineral wool with a vapor barrier film, observing horizontal laying vapor barrier from bottom to top. Film insulation overlap - 5-10 cm.
4. Sheathe the ceiling with OSB, plasterboard, plywood or clapboard.
   Exterior finish the roof is carried out along the counter-batten. Lathing bars are nailed onto the slats, creating a ventilation gap. OSB boards or directly roofing material (slate, corrugated board, metal or flexible tiles) are attached from above.

Floor insulation on the first floor

A lot of heat also leaves through the base of the house - about 15-20% of heat costs fall on the floor. Alternatively, you can organize a water floor heating. However, it is easier and cheaper to insulate the base with mineral wool.

Fasten the canvases together with reinforcing tape, passing them along the docking lines.

On top of the waterproofing, install a lag system from the boards.

Cut the insulation under the cells in the logs. The size of the heat insulator should exceed the distance between the boards by 1-2 cm - this gap is necessary for tight joining and eliminating gaps. The thickness of the insulation is at least 200 mm.

Cover with a vapor barrier film, and lay plywood or a fine plank floor on top.

The described technology is suitable for warming interfloor or attic floors.

A variety of methods for using ecowool

The second most popular material for thermal insulation of a frame building is ecowool. But here it is better not to experiment and entrust the work to professionals. Mechanized backfill will provide desired density and even distribution.
There are three methods of using ecowool:

• dry "spray";
• wet application;
• adhesive method.

dry method applicable for horizontal surfaces, inclined closed cavities, filling interfloor ceilings and non-separable structures. The density of laying ecowool with this method is 45-65 kg / cu. m depending on the slope.

wet technology suitable for vertical open walls. Ecowool flakes are moistened and applied under pressure to the surface. The density of the heat-insulating layer is about 65 kg / cu. m.

The adhesive method is similar to the previous one, but an adhesive component is added instead of water. Advantages of the technique: high adhesion of the insulation to the wall, elasticity of the material and low deformation after drying. The adhesive method is indispensable for thermal insulation of flows from below, the option is also suitable for processing walls.

The issue of home insulation must be considered at the construction stage. It is more profitable from a financial point of view and more technically correct. Structural elements are insulated as the building is erected, and there is no need to perform overhaul building after commissioning.

Do-it-yourself video instruction for thermal insulation

More information about the technology of home insulation is described in the video.

Korovin Sergey Dmitrievich

Master of Architecture, graduated from the Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

To achieve a comfortable stay in the house during winter period it is necessary to think about insulation even at the construction stage. This will prevent the penetration of cold air into the room and ensure compliance with the temperature and humidity conditions. Insulation of a frame house can be done by hand. Step-by-step instructions for each type of structure are given below.

Why is it necessary to insulate the house

With the help of thermal protection of structures in contact with cold air, the following problems can be solved:

• condensation from inside the premises;
• the appearance of dampness, mold and fungus;
• increase in heating costs;
• non-compliance with the temperature regime of the dwelling and a decrease in the comfort of living in it.

In addition, a competent technology for warming a frame house can extend the life of the main structures of the building.

Materials for thermal protection

Home insulation can be carried out using the following materials:

These are the most effective materials, but in addition to them, sawdust or expanded clay can be used for some structures. Protection of the house with mineral wool has become quite widespread, further it will be considered in more detail. You can learn about insulation with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam in the article “Insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam”.

Types of mineral wool

There are two classifications of this heater. The first is based on the raw materials used to make:

The most popular is the insulation of the walls of a frame house and other structures with basalt mineral wool.

The second classification is based on the form of insulation release:

• rigid boards;
• roll material.

It should be noted that glass wool is produced only in rolls.

Rigid slabs that can withstand fairly high loads are suitable for floors. Insulation of the walls of a frame house can be carried out using both plates and rolls. For mansard roof it is best to use slab material. This will allow you to easily insulate with mineral wool between the rafters.

Insulated frame house structures

Before insulating a frame house, it is necessary to decide which structures require this additional event.

With your own hands, you can protect the following elements of the building from the cold:

1. the floor of the first floor;
2. attic floor (if the attic is cold);
3. mansard roof;
4. exterior walls.

Do-it-yourself insulation work can be carried out both outside and inside. It is best to mount the thermal insulation between the racks, as this will ensure the competent work of the material. Warming wooden house mineral wool from the inside of the wall will greatly simplify the work and allow you to hold events in all weather conditions.

Double-layer insulation - a guarantee of 100% thermal protection

An external insulation scheme is possible if the insulation from the inside is not sufficient and additional insulation is required. Peculiarities:

• the outer thermal insulation material must not create a vapor barrier. Otherwise, the resulting condensate from water vapor will accumulate between the two layers of insulation, which is fraught with the formation of mold and mildew;
• house wall thickening

Based on the foregoing, it follows that the thermal protection of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool should be carried out only in exceptional cases, when the scheme from the inside is not applicable.

Wall insulation

To guarantee a comfortable stay during the winter period, it is important to take care of the thermal protection of the walls. To reliably insulate the walls with basalt or other wool from the outside with your own hands, you need two-layer insulation. Follow the following layer order:

1. interior decoration;
2. vapor barrier;
3. mineral wool insulation (2 layers with offset racks);
4. windproof membrane;
5. OSB-3 on the crate;
6. exterior decoration of the facade.

It is important to remember that the scheme for using this type of insulation requires the obligatory presence of a ventilated layer with a thickness of at least 4 cm. This is necessary due to the high hygroscopicity of the material. In order for the insulation to retain its performance characteristics, it is necessary to remove excess moisture from its surface. This is ensured by the circulation of cold air outside the surface of the mineral wool.

Most often, the technology for insulating the walls of a frame house is the following scheme: the material is not laid on any side, but between the racks of the frame. This reduces the overall thickness of the wall and significantly reduces the construction time of the building. Mineral wool is fixed between the racks of the frame, after which sheathing is performed on both sides.

Vapor barrier and wind protection during do-it-yourself work are located similarly to the previous cases: steam protection from the inside, and wind protection from the outside.

With thermal protection of the walls from the inside under the hinged facade, the order of the layers is as follows:

1. interior decoration of the premises;
2. vapor barrier;
3. mineral wool;
4. superdiffusion membrane;
5. wall construction;
6. facade decoration.

Floor insulation

For a wooden frame house, overlappings along the beams are characteristic. When arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, insulation boards are placed between load-bearing structures overlap. You can also use roll materials, but for their spreading it will be required pre-assembly bottom lathing or solid flooring.

When insulating with mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs, it is better to take the step of the wooden floor beams so that 580 mm remain clean between them. This will provide maximum convenience for working with 600 mm wide plates and complete filling of the space with heat-insulating material.

When doing do-it-yourself activities, you need to remember that the vapor barrier is located from the inside of the room, and the waterproofing is from the cold air side. In the case of intermediate floors, steam protection should be provided from the side of the ceiling.

It is also important to remember that when working with any type of mineral wool, it is better to prevent particles of the material from getting on the skin and into the lungs. For this, it is best to use gloves and a mask. Also, workers must have special clothing that completely covers the arms and legs.

Pitched roof insulation

Do-it-yourself installation technology is similar to ceilings. The pitch of the rafters, as in the previous case, is selected with respect to a clear distance of 580 mm.

Work is performed in the following order:

1. installation of the truss system;
2. laying a waterproofing layer over the rafters;
3. thermal insulation;
4. installation of vapor barrier;
5. upper and lower crate;
6. laying roofing material;
7. ceiling interior trim.

Preparatory work

Before properly insulating a frame house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. To do this, perform simple actions:

1. processing of all structures of a wooden house with the help of antiseptic compounds to prevent damage to them by various microorganisms;
2. cleaning the surface from dirt and dust;
3. elimination of significant inconsistencies.

These simple do-it-yourself manipulations will provide the insulation with a reliable connection to the structures and the longest possible long service life.

Source: domzastroika.ru

The technology of insulating the walls of a frame house with mineral wool from the inside and outside

The frame house is practical, durable and very a budget option construction. It has many advantages, especially in the field of ease of construction and installation.

Insulation remains unchanged for a frame house, despite the basic heaters laid in the niches, it is necessary to additionally ensure the preservation of heat.

The material of the frame house is wood or metal, more often they complement each other. Therefore, additional insulation is used either from the outside or from the inside.

Wall insulation in a frame house has long ceased to be a luxury, now it is rather a necessity. Since lately frame structures are becoming more widespread in the cold regions of the country, it is worth thinking about the warmth and comfort in the house.

Internal and external insulation - features and nuances

Each insulation option deserves its right to exist, as in some situations it shows better results. The advantages and disadvantages of each method should be analyzed point by point.

Internal insulation has a higher heat retention coefficient thus reducing energy costs.

This is due to the fact that there is no need to warm up the walls, most of the air is retained directly in the room. The situation is twofold, since walls can also collapse due to a shift in the dew point.. So the moisture from the cold air will be transformed into drops almost in the room itself.

Comparison of insulation methods

Also internal option insulation is easier to install, you can get to the wall using a simple stepladder.

In contrast to this advantage, there is a nuance - this is a decrease in the variety of wall decor, that is, the insulation is less durable and the fastening of some structures can be difficult. It is logical that the construction of an additional layer on the walls leads to an overall decrease in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house.

External insulation is more standard and safe way heat preservation. This type of insulation has the following advantages:

1. The walls are protected from destruction and are less affected by weather phenomena;
2. Does not take up space in the room;
3. Less requirements for the environmental component of the insulation;

List the main types of insulation and their brief description

Heaters are divided according to their properties and method of application, but today the variety of materials is so large that it is very difficult to describe all the options, so only the most popular methods will be affected.

stone wool

Stone wool is a material that is used everywhere, he is preferred by many developers. The popularity of cotton wool is based on easy installation, since special skills are not required and you can get by with improvised tools.

Due to its distribution, wool can be found in almost every major hardware store, while transportation is possible even on own car. The main requirement for the installation of wool is its installation density - there should be no gaps.

Styrofoam - this is a cheaper and moisture-resistant insulation, but at the same time quite fragile. Installation of foam plastic is somewhat more difficult and requires some experience in this area. Since the material does not absorb moisture, there is no need for moisture / vapor barrier membranes, which reduces the cost of the project.

The performance characteristics of polystyrene are somewhat repulsive to many people, which is why serious disputes flare up around the material. As negative points, they note that the material is not at all environmentally friendly and people complain about the deterioration of well-being after warming.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is often used in construction due to its high thermal/sound insulating properties, and minerals are increasingly gaining popularity in private construction.

Cotton wool has the appearance of fibers, which are several times smaller than a hair, and all this is in a compressed form. The length of the fiber is 10-15cm.

Due to the presence of a huge number of air cavities in the material, heat is perfectly retained, and with it sound. Installation of wool is as simple as possible due to the flexibility and elasticity of the blocks, while there is no tendency to deformation. There is no risk of fire.

There are many other types of heaters, such as:

Frame wall insulation pie - what elements does it consist of

There are several basic options for building a frame house, the first is a factory one, when ready-made blocks are initially bought, it is called frame-panel. Another method is to arrange and assemble the panels on site, essentially by hand.

Both options should include several important layers, each of which has its own specific function. In fact, there are only 5 main layers:

1. So the first, of course, is the facade cladding, this also includes outer insulation, so the function is attractive design and protection against temperature fluctuations;
2. Further windproof membrane protects the house from drafts, removes moisture and thereby retains heat;
3. The frame itself, it always contains some kind of insulation;
4. A layer of vapor barrier protects the insulation from the penetration of water vapor, which in turn ensures the durability of the building;
5. Inner lining. There are no special standards here, you can use internal insulation, a variety of decor and everything that seems appropriate to the owner.

Sealing gaps and preparing the crate

The crate is vital in the insulation of a frame house. Cause in that it is simply impossible to attach to mineral wool or any other filler, since they are not able to withstand loads.

Further work implies the presence of a crate, the material can serve as ordinary timber, and profile.

The crate itself additionally serves to seal the inner layer of insulation and its additional ventilation.

• Before preparing the crate all gaps must be sealed, which can be formed due to a loose fit of the insulation.
• It is necessary to fill the niches in the frame so that a slight pressure of the insulation on the supports is formed.. This is done so that in the event of drying out of the beams, gaps do not form due to the filler, otherwise large heat losses are guaranteed.
• Various gaps that cannot be closed with the material simply blown with foam.
• The crate itself is performed as simply as possible. For the installation of the crate, a board measuring 20x90mm is used. The crate is attached to wooden planks that secure the insulation. You can fill the timber in absolutely any direction, it depends on the decor you choose.

Proper insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool - in detail and step by step

It is worth noting that mineral wool is a very good material for insulation, but it still has several negative parameters, such as the release of harmful substances, which restricts indoor use.

It is also noted that the material is afraid of moisture and water vapor.

If the mineral wool is saturated with at least a few percent, then the insulation loses half of its heat-insulating properties.

Now you should highlight a few basic steps for insulating walls with your own hands when using mineral wool:

1. First, it is necessary to sheathe the structure from the inside with a vapor barrier material;
2. Then sew the inside of the frame, often this is done with OSB.. Thus, niches are created for further sealing;
3. Usually niches are made to the size of mineral wool, but if necessary, you will have to cut the sheet with a simple knife. It is worth considering that it should be cut 5 mm more on each side than was measured, this creates additional protection against possible gaps;
4. Selecting the number of mineral wool sheets. Each is 5 cm thick, calculation should be done based on the terrain, in normal cases 2 sheets are sufficient. Sometimes niches are made in several layers that intersect;
5. Now the frame is sheathed on the outside with wind protection;
6. There is a crate on top of the insulation.

Insulation of frame walls with polystyrene foam - in detail and step by step

Despite the fact that mineral wool is a good material for insulation, it is worth disassembling internal ways keeping warm. Here, the choice of material should be taken seriously, since one of the most important criteria, in addition to thermal conductivity, is the environmental friendliness of the product.

The best material for internal insulation, and in all respects, is extruded polystyrene foam. It has low thermal conductivity, is lightweight, does not allow vapor to pass through and is thin, but alas, it costs a little more than other materials.

Installation of polystyrene foam is quite simple:

1. A layer of wind protection is laid;
2. Rails are attached, can be installed in a horizontal or vertical position;
3. The inside is filled with extruded polystyrene foam;
4. Usually there is also a vapor barrier, but with this material it is not necessary, so this is followed by a crate and drywall or any other finishing material.

A few words about waterproofing and vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is a certain film that does not allow moisture to accumulate in the layer with insulation. Thus, the penetration of any steam from the side of the room into the various layers of insulation and back is blocked. Often used in conjunction with waterproofing.

Waterproofing helps to minimize the phenomenon of dew point. Blocks the ingress of moisture into the insulation, usually used outside the wall.

Useful video

Insulation of frame walls special technology:

Conclusion

Warming brings comfort and coziness to the house, blocks the occurrence of harmful, destructive phenomena in the structure and at the same time retains heat.

It is not for nothing that frame houses are often called thermoses, because with proper construction, the building is able to retain heat even in the cold season for several days. Also, do not forget about ventilation, since air circulation in the room is minimal.

Source: expert-dacha.pro

The nuances of warming a frame house from the inside

A simple scheme for building a frame house has one vulnerable spot. The warmth of the house directly depends on the amount of insulation in the wall frame, outside and inside. The right choice of materials, their installation and alternation will ensure warm winters and cool summers. Insulation of a frame wooden house from the inside must be carried out not only based on the climate in the region, but also on the architecture of the building.

Standard drawings of a frame house involve the construction of a building with several layers of insulation. As a rule, there are 2 of them: combined, based on mineral wool, and a thick layer of foam from the outside. However, for some types of climates, foam cladding from the outside is practically useless. To preserve heat, the house is insulated from the inside.

Frame house insulation: materials

To ensure protection from the cold of a frame building, it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal protection. The main filler for walls is mineral wool, however, the range of fillers is represented by different types of materials. They differ not only in the degree of thermal protection, but also in the type of installation, care, and can affect the design of the whole house.

What is the best way to insulate a frame wooden house from the inside? It's a difficult question. To answer, it is better to consider all available options:

• Mineral wool and varieties;
• Sandwich panels;
• Styrofoam.

Mineral wool sheets are a dense product that fits inside the frame, between the outer and inner walls. Cotton wool takes the shape of the figure in which it is located, and therefore provides maximum adherence to the walls of the house.

Mineral wool has several varieties: glass wool, basalt stone wool, slag wool, etc. To insulate a frame house, it is better to choose a material with a density of more than 35-50kgm3. So you can avoid its subsidence and the appearance of unnecessary cold bridges.

Sandwich panels combine the qualities of sound insulation and powerful insulation. They are a complex combined insulation system that is folded on the wall like a constructor and immediately provides cross-wall insulation. Unfortunately, the cost of sandwich panels is quite high.

Instead of mineral wool, polyurethane foam is sometimes used - a water-based material that fills the space well, hardens quickly, provides high level protection from the cold. It is not too difficult to work with polyurethane foam - in its qualities it is similar to mounting foam, and therefore its application to walls, trimming, etc. will not be a problem.

The most common type external insulation is foam. Thick sheets of dense material can protect the house from the wind and keep up to 5 ° heat that can escape through the walls. Styrofoam is attached to the outer wall using building glue, fungal nails, putty mesh. Sheathing the outer wall of the house with foam guarantees the so-called. cross-insulation of the house, where cold bridges (board, timber) are covered with a layer of insulation.

Another task of the foam is to protect the frame from the harmful effects environment. Excessive moisture, damage to the skin, bacteria can greatly harm the house. Frame repair is a very expensive pleasure. Styrofoam will protect the frame from most adverse factors. In addition, if damaged outer skin a damaged stove is very easy to repair or replace.

Warming the house from the inside: useful or harmful?

Any type of finishing work significantly reduces the overall quadrature of the room. In addition, with the outer foam layer already installed General characteristics the walls will fall noticeably.

How to properly and cheaply insulate a frame house from the inside? This question must be answered before the start of construction - at the stage of project development. An experienced architect will suggest several solutions to this problem, including styrofoam or sandwich paneling on the inside. The designer may resist this, because a thick layer will take up a lot of interior space. Masters also have the right to vote - the installation of insulation must be done in a short time around the entire perimeter of the walls. Because of this, the choice of types and types of insulation is noticeably reduced.

Mineral wool has a heterogeneous composition - the fibers in it are arranged randomly. It retains heat well, however, for efficient operation, cotton wool must warm up well. Combination: heated room - min. cotton wool - foam plastic, in practice works much better than the combination: room - foam plastic - mineral wool.

For the effective operation of the insulation, it is necessary to correctly alternate different types of thermal insulation. A good option would be a scheme:

Room - double layer min. cotton wool - 5mm foam layer.

Such a plan suggests the installation of an efficient combined system. Cross-insulation of a wooden frame house from the inside allows you to remove 95% of all cold bridges and reduce heat loss through the walls to a minimum.

Styrofoam insulation from the inside is a dubious enterprise. Thus, the wool is protected from the heat source and cannot warm up well. The option is only suitable for buildings located in warm latitudes, or residential premises in which they live in the summer.

The installation process of cross-insulation

Contrary to popular belief, cross-insulation can be created with only one type of material. For a frame house, the standard wall thickness is 150 mm of mineral insulation - glass wool, slag wool, rock wool (basalt). A frame with a board width of 150mm is built under the filler.

Another 50mm of additional insulation is added to the wall thickness. An additional frame is built under it from the outside or inside. As a rule, this is a horizontal board 50 mm wide (according to the thickness of the filler).

The laying of the outer layer of insulation occurs first of all, the filling of the wall occurs "from the street".

Work execution algorithm:

1. The construction of the frame, partitions;
2. Completion of an additional frame for the outer wall;
3. Filling with 50mm sheets of the outer frame;
4. Installation of VVZ membrane on an external wall (industrial stapler);
5. Laying the inner layer of insulation;
6. Installation of exterior and interior trim - strips, wooden lining, corrugated board, etc.

This plan can be expanded at the request of the customer or the advice of the foreman. For regions with a cold climate, the thickness of the walls can be increased, more a complex system moisture, wind protection, an additional source of heating for the house is installed.

Insulation of a frame wooden house inside involves the placement of thick sheets of thermal insulation over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe outer walls. In this case, a flat vapor barrier film is stretched over the mineral wool, which is designed to protect the insulation from moisture. An even layer of foam plastic 3-10 cm is glued onto the prepared wall. After the surface is sewn up with a putty mesh, it is leveled with a thick putty for the walls. After that, the wall can be painted, sewn up with drywall, glued wallpaper, etc.

Features of mounting insulation on the frame

Visually, mineral wool does not seem to be pressed against the walls of the frame. Many people think that the insulation should be attached at least with glue, in order to avoid “falling out” of the frame cells.

Properly executed wall decoration is used to hold cotton wool. Both outside and inside, mineral wool must be covered with a layer of waterproofing, the wall must be finished with a special finish - clapboard, drywall sheets, corrugated board, etc.

For external wall moaning better finish you need to start with a layer of thick moisture-windproof membrane. A thick, durable film will protect the filler from moisture ingress from the outside, the formation of steam, and the “falling out” of sheets from an unfinished wall.

Further sheathing: a mesh of thin wooden planks and a thick layer of the board of the outer lining of the corrugated board with an additional layer of insulation (polystyrene), less often - decorative rock, brick, etc.

The interior wall decoration involves several layers of wall protection from the microclimate of the room: a waterproofing layer (film), heat reflector (foil insulation in rolls), wall decoration.

In terms of wall decoration, it is best to choose a durable material that repels moisture well. Drywall sheets, PVC, MDF, wood paneling, sound insulation + special drywall can be installed as the first and only finishing layer between the filler and the room's interior.

How to insulate an already erected frame house from the inside? For this it is better to use:

1. Thin foam plastic (will remove cold bridges, but allow mineral wool to warm up);
2. Sandwich panels (expensive but effective heating method);
3. Construction of an additional frame for mineral wool.

Any of these options involves a major overhaul of the premises - the outer finish must be removed, the installation takes place close to the inner layer of the filler.

1. During construction big house It is worth stopping at one type of insulation for walls. The use of high-density mineral wool on a combined frame (cross-laying) will allow the house to be well insulated. In addition, you can significantly save on the cost of materials;
2. Using one type of insulation will speed up the construction of the house. Combining different types without following the technique for each can reduce the performance of the house;
3. The placement of the filler should occur gradually, without haste. Attaching cotton to paper clips or glue is of no practical use;
4. Properly made cells in the frame (1-2 cm less than the dimensions of the mineral wool sheet) will allow you to create a really warm wall;
5. Work with any type of filler should be done in overalls. This is especially true of glass wool - the ingress of dust into the eyes and respiratory organs is fraught with serious consequences;
6. When installing polystyrene foam on the outer walls of a frame house, it is necessary to load the supports minimally. In addition, when drilling holes for hats, it is worth remembering the features of the tree. In addition, it is necessary to have at hand the exact layout of the house: the placement of beams and crossbars in order to avoid fixing the foam "on cotton wool".

Common questions and answers

Q: Are there ready-made projects of houses that take into account the parameters of interior or exterior finishing with thermal insulation?

A: Yes, they are present in abundance on our website in the appropriate section. If you could not find a suitable option - add additional characteristics to the scheme already finished project much easier and cheaper than developing it from scratch.

Q: What type of insulation is better for a beginner to stay on?

A: If the construction of a small building is underway, the most profitable option for the builder - the amateur will be the cross-laying of mineral wool.

Internal frame: 150 mm wide (for warm latitudes, 120 mm is possible).

External frame (or internal) - 50 mm.

Laying layers: perpendicular.

Q: How long does it take to install insulation for a house?

A: It will take about 12-20 hours for a team of 3-5 builders to install insulation in a one-story house.

Speed ​​plays an important role here: weather changes, rain can ruin the insulation and cause financial damage to the owner of the house.

Source: karkasnik-stroy.ru

The right frame wall pie - through the eyes of members of the forum

Do you need a vapor barrier in the frame, where and how to put it, what is the dew point - how to avoid mistakes and build the right walls, our users tell.

Warm, comfortable, modern - the frame will be like that, provided that it is built according to all the rules. Special attention should be given to the correct frame wall cake. Users of forumhouse.ru argue about what a frame wall cake should be like, what materials can be taken to replace those already familiar to us.

We list the main mistakes that some make when constructing a frame wall:

• do not take into account the possibility of a dew point;
• do not install vapor barrier material;
• install a vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation;
• do not glue the joints of the vapor barrier;
• do not mount the wind protection or install it under the slab sheathing.

There is only one way to avoid these mistakes: to use reliable and proven pie schemes over the years.

1. Neglect of vapor barrier and wind protection

Many novice developers do not think about what processes can take place inside the wall. The insulation begins to get wet, and the frame racks become moldy and rot. This is due to the fact that a vapor barrier and wind protection are not installed, or the sequence of layers of the wall cake is broken.

Wall pie in a frame house:

According to linkozavr, a classic carcass wall cake, (from inside to outside) is:

1. Drywall - as a base layer for interior decoration.

3. Insulation (mineral wool).

4. OSB. Layers of a frame house

6. Exterior finish: siding with an air gap on a counter-lattice, etc.

The layers in the frame house should be arranged in this way, it is impossible to replace this sequence with another, and each element performs a strictly defined function.

Denis Reznichenko, Moscow(nickname on the forum silent):

- The vapor barrier is installed from the inside, because it limits the flow of moisture into the wall. Hydrowind protection is always placed outside, because. it prevents the thermal insulation from being blown by the wind, protects it from precipitation and allows excess moisture to escape.

Pie wall frame house.

To understand the need for high-quality vapor barrier, it is necessary to understand the term "dew point".

The dew point is the state at which, under the influence of low temperature, the water vapor contained in the air begins to condense, forming water droplets.

The appearance of the dew point depends on:

• air temperature (inside and outside the room);
• relative humidity (inside and outside the room).

The higher the relative humidity of the air, the higher the dew point temperature.

When moisture condenses, the following happens:

• the insulation gets wet and loses its thermal insulation properties;
• the wall begins to freeze;
• frame boards become moldy and rot.

2. Incorrectly installed vapor barrier

The most common mistake in the construction of a frame is an incorrectly mounted vapor barrier. Because of this, moisture passes freely into the insulation.

Roracotta:

- the simplest and cheap way- use ordinary high-density polyethylene as a vapor barrier, not less than 200 microns.

You can install a vapor barrier in three steps:

1. Polyethylene is mounted with an overlap between rolls, about 15 centimeters in each direction.

2. Polyethylene is beaten with a stapler on the racks, with a step between the staples of 30-40 cm.

3. All joints are carefully glued with glue based on bituminous resin. If the joints do not overlap, then they must be glued with a special adhesive tape.

Folgoizol can be used as a vapor barrier. Such a vapor barrier, due to the foil layer, does not allow steam to penetrate into the insulation. All joints are glued with butyl rubber tape.

Pie frame house with OSB outside

The classic frame wall pie involves the installation of power sheathing - OSB boards outside the house. In addition to such a scheme, another one is also used - the so-called "inverted" frame, where the power sheathing is oriented inside the house. Let's see what this option is for.

The OSB board is low vapor permeable, and the classical scheme violates main principle building a frame structure - the vapor permeability of materials should increase from the inside - out.

Dmitry1000:

- In my opinion, even if I make an internal vapor barrier, dew will still fall in the insulation, because. there is a vapor barrier from inside the house, and OSB from the outside, and the moisture that has got into the insulation simply has nowhere to go.

Let's see if this is actually correct.

Paulspb offers the following calculation:

- The total generation of water vapor in a house of 120 square meters. m, with a family of three, will be - 6320 g / day. With ceiling height one-story house at 2.8 m, the volume of the house is approximately equal to 336 m3, the amount of “generated” moisture, that is, remaining in the air after ventilation, will be 2670 g, or 7.95 g / m3.

Now imagine that it is winter outside and -10. At 100% humidity, the air contains 2.37 g/m3 of water. Inside the house, there is much more moisture, approximately - 10.32 g / m3. This leads to the movement of steam from the inside out through the building envelope.

Paulspb:

– The water vapor will escape through the walls and ceiling, the total area of ​​which is about 240 sq.m.

In this case, 10.9 g of water should pass through 1 sq.m of surface per day.

An OSB plate 20 mm thick passes 5.39 g of steam per day through 1 sq.m. A plate in 12 mm - 8.98 g of steam, in 10 mm - 10.8 g.

OSB with a thickness of 9 - 12 mm has a small vapor permeability. OSB with a thickness of 18 mm and above is practically vapor-tight.

Since external structures most often try to sheathe OSB with a thickness of 9 or 12 mm, moisture will gradually come out.

Classical proper pie for the frame.

3. Correct wall frame house: breathable.

You can often hear the expression: "breathing" frame walls, i.e. those that allow steam to pass in both directions and regulate the air exchange in the room.

User with nickname Vitla offers a pie like this (from inside to outside):

6. Exterior finish.

- The power sheathing must be fixed from the inside of the house. Suitable for this purpose: OSB, plywood, fiberboard, or you can replace them with a grooved board. GKL takes away excess moisture from the room, and if necessary gives it back. That is, this kind of cake turns out to be “breathable”, which is important for a comfortable stay in the house.

Correct frame wall pie with OSB sheathing

Let's see if such a scheme has the right to life

- There are no "breathing" walls. My advice is to do a standard assembly and a reliable vapor barrier.

Proper pie frame wall
Roracotta:

- Any proper frame needs a reliable vapor barrier.

Air exchange in the frame is provided by ventilation, and not by "breathing" structures!

In addition, OSB load-bearing sheathing, installed from the inside without additional vapor barrier, allows steam to pass through.

Because OSB is mounted with a small gap between the sheets (3-5 mm), then without additional vapor barrier, moisture-saturated steam will enter the insulation through this gap.

Frame house cake with osb
When installing OSB from the inside, it is difficult to insulate an open wall in the rain or in winter. The slab, installed outside, additionally connects the ceilings of the first and second floors, frame racks and acts as a strength element.

4. Pie frame house with OSB outside - Western approach

Roracotta:

- In Canada, it is unprofitable to insulate walls with fiberglass wool insulation with a thickness of more than 150 mm.

They do this: mineral wool is laid with a thickness of 15 cm, and outside, on the OSB, a foam plastic with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm is attached.

Thus, cold bridges are completely eliminated, and a very warm structure is obtained.

- With such insulation, a special drainage membrane is laid between the OSB and the foam.

It is not necessary to use extruded polystyrene foam as an additional external insulation. Due to the almost zero vapor permeability, XPS locks moisture inside. This can lead to the appearance of a dew point on the inside of such a heater.

Design options for the wall of a frame house without OSB

In the Scandinavian countries, another option is used, and the cake (outside - inside) is as follows:

1. Facade plasterboard or windproof film.

2. Frame racks filled with insulation.

4. GKL on the crate.

Porcupine:

- In Finland, in such a frame house cake, the replacement for OSB is basalt wool. A layer of vapor barrier is always placed in the design of the cake! Common plastic film is used everywhere.

Summing up, we can say that the key element of the right frame house is a high-quality vapor barrier!

FORUMHOUSE contains all the information on frame housing construction. Here you will find a cheat sheet for a beginner frame builder. Find out which firms are actually building carcasses in the Moscow region. And about the Scandinavian skeletons: what, how, and why - accessible and visual.

Watch a video about the construction of a frame using Scandinavian technology. And this video talks about the "correct" frame with a second light.

It is necessary to approach the insulation of any house with special responsibility, because it depends on how warm and comfortable living in it will be. And the thermal insulation of a frame house is generally one of the most important stages of construction, because, in fact, in such houses, insulation is the only barrier to cold.

In a previous article, I described step-by-step instructions for assembling a frame house with my own hands. Now, we will consider instructions on how to properly insulate it and isolate it from wind and moisture, so that during operation it remains a reliable protection against frost in the cold season for a long time, and also saves it from the languishing heat in summer.

What insulation to use for a frame house

I will not describe here which insulation is best for a frame house, this is a separate topic, and it is discussed in detail in another article.

But it is worth noting that about 80% of the total number of frame houses are insulated with mineral wool or heaters based on it. Given this, this step-by-step instruction will mainly be based on just such insulation.

• In addition to mineral wool, there are several more types of insulation that are more or less suitable for use as thermal insulation of frame houses, such as ecowool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay and others. We will talk about the differences in the technology of their use at the end of the article.
• The insulation of a frame house with glass wool occurs in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, so we will not consider this type of insulation separately.
• Mineral wool, in comparison with other types of heaters, is the most versatile material. She insulates not only frame houses, but also any others. As a heater, it is used almost everywhere in the construction of private houses.

It is important to know that when working with mineral wool, especially indoors, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment such as gloves, goggles and a respirator. Skin contact can result in severe itching, redness, and allergic reactions.

In principle, the insulation of all parts of a frame house is not much different from each other, but there are still some nuances, so it is necessary to consider each part separately.

Warming the floor of a frame house with your own hands

The floor insulation technology largely depends on the type of foundation, but since most frame houses are currently built on a pile-screw foundation, we will build on this when insulating the floor.

Insulation of the floor of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, begins with waterproofing. In addition to the waterproofing membrane, we still need to build a structure under the floor logs that will hold both the waterproofing material and the insulation itself, as shown in the diagram.

If the house is located high relative to the ground, and you can crawl under it, then first a waterproofing membrane is stretched under the floor logs and fastened with a furniture stapler. The overlap of the waterproofing strips should be as tight as possible so that it does not see through from under the floor. Which side is inward, and which outward material is stuffed - ask the manufacturer.

Also from below, a board breaks through on top of the waterproofing. The size of the board and the installation step does not really matter, but no more than 40-50 cm, if only this is enough so that the sheets or strips of mineral wool do not fall through. Sometimes the board is stuffed tightly, without gaps, this strengthens the floor structure. Here's what the end result should be:

If it is impossible to crawl under the house, then a board is first stuffed under the logs, and then a waterproofing membrane is attached to the logs from the inside of the frame house, as shown in the photo.

When the base for the insulation is ready, mineral wool is laid between the joists of the floor of the frame house. It is necessary to lay tightly, the presence of voids is not allowed. Mineral wool is cut with a sharp knife, you can use a construction knife, but always a little more than the required length, about 1 cm.

For ease of installation, the distance between the lags is selected in advance, depending on the insulation, in our case, the width of the mineral wool slab is 60 cm. This means that the distance between the lags, ideally, should be 58-59cm.

The thickness of the insulation layer depends entirely on the region where the frame house is being built, but on average it is 15 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the height of the log floor of the frame house. As a rule, the thickness of all layers of mineral wool does not exceed, and sometimes even slightly less than, the width of the board or timber from which they are made.

An important point in laying mineral wool is that each layer must overlap the joints of the previous one, as shown in the photo. The overlap should be at least 15-20 cm.

On top of the mineral wool, inside the frame house on the logs, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside, and also serve as additional wind protection. In order for it to be airtight, the joints must be glued with double-sided tape, for example.

Plywood, OSB-board, or a board is sewn onto the vapor barrier membrane, which will be the basis for further finishing.

It is worth noting that mineral wool itself is not a wind protection, therefore, the waterproofing and vapor barrier membrane must be stretched so that there is an overlap on the walls, excluding moisture and wind from entering between the wall and the floor of the frame house.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

In a frame house, as in any other, there are two types of walls - external, one side of which is located on the street, and internal, which are located completely inside the house. So, it is necessary to insulate both of them.

The walls of a frame house can be insulated both from the inside and outside, the materials used and their quantity do not change from this. We will consider the insulation from the inside, everything is done from the outside in exactly the same way, only in a slightly different sequence.

Insulation of the outer walls of the house

It should be noted right away that when sheathing a frame house from the outside and from the inside with your own hands, various materials are used, they may be different from those that I describe in this manual. The procedure may also differ, but in general, it turns out almost the same thing, as in the diagram. This is an approximate scheme, for example, instead of OSB-plates, on the one hand, you can pierce the crate with slats or a 25mm thick board. The board, as a rule, breaks through a certain distance - about 40 cm between the axes, but it is worth remembering that in this case, the rigidity of the walls will suffer a little.

The process of insulating walls with mineral wool with your own hands is almost identical to the thermal insulation of the floor, and is carried out as follows:

Outside, the frame is sheathed with OSB-plates, with gaps between them specified by the manufacturer, as a rule, it is 2-3 mm. After installation, the gaps can be foamed. This is what it looks like from the inside of the house:

Then, also from the outside, a waterproofing membrane is stretched, which will protect the mineral wool, the frame of the house, as well as OSB sheets from external moisture, on top of which external finishing work will be carried out, such as siding, for example. Some manufacturers make waterproofing materials with self-adhesive strips so that the joint is tighter. If there are no such stripes, it is advisable to glue the joints with double-sided tape.

Inside the frame house, between the frame posts, which, if you did everything correctly, are located at a distance of 58-59 cm from each other, sheets of mineral wool are tightly inserted.

It is better to use mineral wool with a density of at least 35-50kg/m3. A less dense insulation will settle or roll down, which will lead to the appearance of voids and cold bridges. As a rule, manufacturers write on the packaging what material can be used for.

As well as with the floor, the layers of mineral wool should be laid so as to overlap the previous joint of the sheets, at least 15-20cm. The total thickness of the insulation depends on the climate zone, but the average value is also 15cm.

After all the insulation has been laid in the walls, it is necessary to fill with mounting foam all the small voids formed at the junctions of boards and beams.

A prerequisite for insulation with mineral wool is that from the inside of the house, over the insulation, it is necessary to stretch the vapor barrier membrane, which will protect the insulation from moisture coming from inside the house. On top of which, the same OSB sheets are most often stuffed as outside, but you can also use a board, slats and similar materials, depending on the further finishing. An important point in the installation of the vapor barrier membrane is that it is not overtightened at the inner corners, and the vapor barrier completely repeats the angle of the frame. Otherwise, in the future, it will be difficult to nail the sheathing at the corners.

It is worth noting that this whole procedure can be done the other way around, first pull the vapor barrier membrane from the inside, then the inner sheathing material, and the process of insulating the walls with mineral wool can be done from the outside.

Insulation of the internal walls of a frame house

Distinctive features of the insulation of the internal walls of a frame house are:

Insulation of the internal walls of a frame house is carried out, to a greater extent, for sound insulation. Therefore, if you have the opportunity, it would be better to use soundproof material. But this does not mean that ordinary heat-insulating mineral wool, or other types of heaters, will not work.

There are no such stringent requirements for the insulation of internal walls as for external ones, therefore, in principle, waterproofing and vapor barrier materials are not required.

Otherwise, the insulation is identical to the outer walls of the frame house. If it is not possible, or there are no strict requirements for soundproofing internal partitions, it will be enough to use the same insulation as for external walls. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer can be much less.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a frame house

Insulation of the ceiling of a frame house is practically no different from other types of houses with wooden floors, and is one of the most crucial moments in the thermal insulation of the whole house as a whole.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly insulate the ceiling of a frame house with mineral wool:

This procedure is best done when the roof is not yet fully assembled, so that it does not interfere with the dense laying of the insulation on top of the ceiling.

From inside the house, ceiling beams a vapor barrier material is stretched, on which a board is stuffed, 25 mm thick, plywood, or all the same OSB sheets. The step between adjacent boards is selected from how the ceiling will be finished, but most often about 40 cm between the axes of the boards.

Now mineral wool is laid on top, all according to the same rules as elsewhere, without voids, tightly and overlapping the seams of the previous layer - at least 15-20 cm. An important point is that the insulation must be laid completely on the entire ceiling, including the overlap on the entire width of the walls.

If the attic space is cold and not used for permanent residence, there is no need to lay membrane films over the insulation. You can immediately sew up with a board or plywood, in order to make it convenient to walk on them.

When it is not possible to insulate the ceiling of a frame house from above, it is insulated from the inside of the room. Insulation, in this case, must be "tied up" so that it does not fall. And then sew on the vapor barrier material and board or plywood.

Since warm air tends to rise up, if the ceiling or roof is not properly insulated, the maximum amount of heat will leave the house.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the roof of a frame house

Very often, instead of the ceiling, and sometimes together with the ceiling, the roof of the frame house is also insulated with mineral wool. This is usually done in cases where the attic space is residential and heated.

The insulation technology practically does not differ from the thermal insulation of the ceiling, except that a waterproofing material must be stretched over the insulation to protect the insulation from an external aggressive environment.

This is how the heat-insulating layer of mineral wool on the roof of a frame house looks like in the diagram:

Here are a few features that will help facilitate the process of warming with your own hands:

• The roof, as well as the ceiling, is more convenient to insulate from the outside, because the installation of mineral wool from the inside is, firstly, inconvenient, and secondly, this material tends to crumble on the head and face.
• After installing the rafter system, it is necessary to hem a vapor barrier layer from below, on which, just as in the case of the ceiling, fill the lining material, board or plywood from the inside.
• Now lay the sheets of insulation outside, adhering to all the same rules as when insulating other parts of the frame house.
• A waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the insulation, on which the counter-lattice, crate and roofing material are already stuffed.

It is worth noting that it is possible to insulate the roof from the inside, if it is fully assembled. But this is much more inconvenient, because you will have to come up with some kind of temporary fasteners before pulling on the vapor barrier material so that the insulation does not fall out.

Features of using other types of heaters

All preparatory work on the thermal insulation of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, is no different. Differences, and even then insignificant, in the laying of the insulation itself, which will be discussed further. Now let's look at the main differences between insulation with other materials, which can also be used as thermal insulation for frame houses.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) and EPS

If you dig around on the Internet, you will find a lot of controversy about foam insulation not only for wooden houses, but also for others. Indeed, foam plastic for frame houses is not the best option, although it will be the warmest, with the same thickness of insulation, and why is a separate topic for conversation.

The process of insulation with foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam is practically no different, so they can be combined.

Here are some features of expanded polystyrene and insulation based on it:

• Styrofoam does not always lie between the lags as tightly as mineral wool, so all cracks and voids must be removed using mounting foam or similar materials.
• Expanded polystyrene is a combustible material, this must be remembered and even potential sources of combustion should not come into contact with it.
• When using foam, you need to take care of improved ventilation, because this material practically does not allow air to pass through.
• Despite the fact that expanded polystyrene practically does not pass or absorb moisture, it cannot be left as the only waterproofing at home. Waterproofing and vapor barrier layers should still be present, because they protect not only the insulation, but also the tree itself, from which the frame of the house is assembled.
• Styrofoam is very fond of rodents who make their moves in it, so care must be taken that they do not get to it.

These are the basic rules and differences in the use of polystyrene foam boards and insulation based on them. Otherwise, everything is done in the same way as in the case of mineral wool insulation.

Features insulation of a frame house with ecowool

Ecowool is a relatively new material for insulating not only frame houses.

It can be used as a heater in almost all areas of private construction, including frame construction.

• Despite the fact that ecowool insulation can be done without special equipment, I would still not recommend doing this. Firstly, because with the help of special equipment, ecowool is applied more evenly and blows out all the voids. Secondly, manually prepared ecowool has less good characteristics, both in terms of shrinkage and thermal insulation.
• Ecowool absorbs moisture very well, therefore waterproofing and vapor barrier materials, as well as their installation, must be approached with special responsibility.
• It is necessary to apply ecowool with a margin, because it will shrink over time, up to 10-15%.
• When applying it, you must use personal protective equipment.

It should be noted that when insulating a frame house with ecowool, it is necessary to hire responsible and highly qualified specialists who will take into account all its features during installation.

Insulation of a frame house with expanded clay

This insulation technology is currently used extremely rarely, because now there is a huge selection of materials with much better characteristics.

However, I will tell you a little about her:

• Expanded clay in dry form, as a heater, can be used either for floor or ceiling insulation, it is also possible for them to insulate interfloor ceilings. Using it in the walls is problematic, and, in my opinion, not justified.
• Very often, expanded clay insulation is combined, for example, with sawdust, ash, etc.
• The difference between expanded clay insulation is that the floor and ceiling, from below under the logs, must be pierced either with a butt board or with some plywood materials.
• Expanded clay is better to use a fine fraction, thereby there will be fewer voids.

In addition to those described by me, there are many more materials and methods for insulating frame houses with your own hands. But they are all so similar that it makes little sense to describe each of them.

Warming the floor in a frame house is not such a difficult operation if you know the basic rules and regulations. In this article, you will learn the most important of them and avoid making offensive mistakes.

The most common thickness of insulation in the floor of a frame house in middle lane Russia - 200 mm. As a rule, this is quite enough to minimize heat loss through the floor. If we are talking about an energy-efficient or so-called "passive" house, the recommended thickness of the insulation should be 300 mm. The same thickness is relevant for northern latitudes.

As a rule, the floors (of the first floor) in a frame house are assembled on logs of lumber with a section of 200 * 50mm (or 195 * 45mm for a planed board) in increments of 600 or 400 mm, depending on the design floor loads.

To equip the subfloor on which the insulation will be laid, you can use either a support board or cranial bars.

support board, unlike the cranial bar, allows you to maximize the use of the space between the lags and completely fill it with insulation. The support board is attached directly during the installation of the first floor floor log, before their installation. It is optimal to use lumber impregnated with an antiseptic with a section of 100 * 25 or 150 * 25 as a support board. Since the main tear load will fall on the hardware in this design, it is extremely important to ensure their secure fastening - use either nailed (screw) nails or self-tapping screws.

skull bar section from 40X40mm to 50X50mm is used, as a rule, in floors, where the thickness of the insulation (noise insulation) is required to fill only part of the volume. Or in cases where the lags are already mounted. This method is also used in summer houses, when a small layer of insulation is laid on the floor of the first floor, sufficient for seasonal living.

Further, the draft floor is laid directly on the resulting support. As a rule, these are OSB (OSB) sheets cut to the width of the opening, or an antiseptic board with a section of 150 (100) * 25. The second way is cheaper, as you understand.

After that, along the floor logs and the subfloor, a layer of a wind-moisture protective membrane (Izospan A type) is stretched, laid and fixed with a stapler with a rough surface to the insulation. The overlap of the membrane panels is 15 cm.

The place for laying the insulation is ready, you can proceed with its installation.

After laying the insulation, a vapor barrier is necessarily done.

This is a crucial moment. The quality of gluing the seams of the vapor barrier layer will determine the service life of both the insulation itself and the entire "pie" of the floor. In the photo above, bars of additional crates are used. As for walls, this technique helps to prevent possible damage to the film when sewing up the floor with a board, OSB or plywood.

Another advantage of using additional battens (or counter battens - at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the lag) is the ability to "hide" communications under the floor. For example, as in the photo:

Types of floor insulation in a frame house

1. Mineral wool (mineral wool).

Probably the most common type of insulation today. Mineral wool is made from melted glass. Material with the best combination of price and quality. Big choice manufacturers on the market. For the floor, both rolled insulation and in the form of mats are used. It must be laid with overlapping joints and overlapping layers of at least 15 cm. That is, for example, for insulation of 150 mm it is not advisable to use one layer of 150 mm, use 100 + 50 or 50 + 50 + 50.

2. Basalt insulation.

The next most popular type of insulation. Materials are made from rocks, which are melted down into stone wool. This type of insulation is more expensive than mineral wool because of the materials and the production process itself. But it is more resistant to aggressive substances and biological influences.

Unlike mineral basalt insulation, it is more rigid (brittle) and more suitable for flat surfaces. Mineral wool is more flexible and can be used to insulate complex geometric structures.

3. Ecowool.

A relatively new type of insulation for frame houses in Russia. Basically, Russian ecowool consists of newspaper and cardboard waste paper. In the countries of Europe and America, the raw material for ecowool is hay, sawdust, cotton and flax waste, hemp, etc. As part of ecowool, flame retardants (fire protection) are mandatory. In Russia, as a rule, borax (borex in the English version) acts as a flame retardant in combination with an antiseptic - boric acid. The approximate proportion of cellulose and antiseptics in ecowool ranges from 80/20 to 75/25. Therefore, as you understand, the environmental friendliness of ecowool is often a common marketing PR. We will talk more about ecowool in our other article.

An important nuance when insulating a frame house with ecowool is the correctness of this very application. Manual warming (“fluffing”) is highly discouraged, since in the future there is a high probability of the insulation settling. Proper insulation with ecowool is possible only with the help of “wet” spraying with special equipment. Due to the lingin added to the ecowool, the latter, when blowing it under pressure, sticks to building structures, thus forming a seamless layer of insulation.

Compared to minerals and basalt insulation ecowool is about 35% better (according to the Association of Pulp Manufacturers) in protecting the house from blowing. At the same time, it costs 1.5-2 times more than mineral heaters. According to manufacturers, ecowool does not require vapor barrier, but most builders are still reinsured at the moment.

4. Styrofoam.

The most important advantage of polystyrene foam as a heater is its cheapness. That is why it is so popular among builders of low-budget housing, garages, sheds, change houses and other outbuildings. It is important to note that when insulating a frame structure, we mean ordinary foam plastic, and not extruded (EPP). EPP is completely vapor-tight, so moisture that gets inside the frame, over time, as a rule, provokes the processes of wood decay and leads to irreparable results.

Probably the biggest disadvantage of polystyrene is its susceptibility to temperature changes in geometry. With strong temperature changes, the joints of the foam sheets crack, forming gaps that require further sealing almost every season. Experienced craftsmen(supporters of polyfoam) have learned to use this material without the use of polyurethane foam. All that is required is the installation of foam panels "in tension", when a sheet of material is sawn 1-2 mm wider than the opening and its installation is carried out very tightly to the frame racks. At the same time, foam sheets are placed "on the run" to eliminate gaps in the insulation. And without fail, when insulating with foam, an ideal vapor barrier is made from the inside of the room.

Someone has learned to combine foam and mineral insulation. But it’s more correct to not use foam plastic for warming a full-fledged house for year-round.

5. Other heaters.

In rare cases, bulk materials such as sawdust, peat, straw chaff, etc. are used to insulate floors in frame houses. It is unlikely that such a decision is correct. Firstly, such materials reliably enough ensure heat preservation only with a layer of 25-40 cm, secondly, they can become caked over time, and thirdly, their treatment with various protective substances will be quite expensive.