Mk stone towers in the flower garden of the turret. Castle in the country - easy! The process of making a decorative castle for the garden with your own hands
I, like some of you, had an idea-fix to do something pleasing to the eye against the backdrop of a country landscape. The choice fell on a mini-castle, since it is the easiest to enter it anywhere in the site, taking into account its geological features. Moreover, you can build creatively, adding or changing its elements on the go.
The main material is sand and cement for the longevity of the composition. After experimenting, I settled on a composition of 2 to 1 (i.e. 2 parts sand and 1 part cement). Sand is best dried in the sun, then it is easier to mix with cement, and also sifted for use in elements with fine detail, as debris can ruin the part.
The castle has a fairly decent volume, so building it all at once is unrealistic. To do this, first I make separate parts of the castle, so that later I can build it from cubes in a couple of days. The last, third castle was assembled in two days. Neighbors thought he fell from the sky when they saw him.
So, consider the elements of a typical design.
Let's start with the towers. A cylinder of the desired radius is rolled up from a sheet of iron (I have about 2-30 cm). The cylinder is fixed with wire or self-tapping screws so that it can be easily disassembled later. Anything is placed inside the cylinder - bottles, cans - to reduce the consumption of the solution, but the thickness to the ballast must be at least 5 cm. Fill with a fairly thick solution. We give him several hours to set to such a state that when the formwork is removed, it does not crumble. You can choose the height of the cylindrical formwork yourself. It can be equal to the height of the tower, or less, but then the formwork will have to be disassembled and assembled above the already seized lower part.
We immediately begin to cut the raw, slightly seized solution. The cutting technology is the same as that of the sandboxes. For cutting, I use a set of tools available to everyone. I have these screwdrivers, chisels, a medical scalpel, a hacksaw blade for metal and various strips of tin to form various architectural elements.
A simple cylinder is boring, and this is where the flight of fancy begins. I make various grooves by wrapping a cylinder with a long strip of tin, using this strip as a guide, with a screwdriver or chisel I choose annular recesses. Then, in the lower part, you can imitate masonry, destruction, plaster chips, cracks - after all, the castle is ancient.
For me, aging is the most exciting part of the process. At the same time, we do not amuse ourselves with making windows, loopholes, picking out the desired recess with a knife. If there is a desire to make a turret in the upper part of the tower, then we turn off the cylinder with a diameter a couple of centimeters larger and a height of 10-15 cm, insert a plastic bottle inside to save the solution (after complete setting, it will be removed).
We fill the form with a solution and after partial setting, carefully remove the cylinder formwork and make right amount windows, teeth - as fantasy tells. I cut teeth hacksaw blade for metal - I make cuts of the required depth and pick off the excess solution between the cuts.
The roof can be made from tin cones, and you can use this tin cone as a mold for pouring mortar (I do this). After complete setting, carefully knock out our roof from the mold. Do not forget that we are still preparing individual elements of the castle. We'll put it all together later. So we figured out the tower. We have all the elements ready and stacked somewhere in the corner.
Let's start building walls. Our walls will be either fortress (1) or an element of the building (2).
There is no difference in their production. We assemble a rectangle of the required size from boards 5 cm wide. We put it on a flat surface (I have an old kitchen table) having previously placed either a film or a piece of roofing material so that the solution that is then poured in is not absorbed. You can place a metal arch in this frame - this will be a door or gate. Pour the solution into the frame. Where no windows or doors are planned, gravel or broken bricks can be poured to the bottom to save mortar. After the mortar is poured to the desired height, you can take pretty pebbles from gravel and poke them at the base of the foundation so that they protrude with flat edges above common plane solution about 5 mm.
If there is no gravel, then after partial setting sharp knife or with a scalpel to imitate the foundation. You can also mark future windows with pebbles. Thus, your task is to make such flat elements. To speed up, I make 2-3 such rectangles at the same time. Having made such a wall once, you will understand that they are made easily and very quickly. As a rule, we are interested in the outer side of the castle, the inner part does not represent anything, because it is not visible.
So, after a few hours, the solution of our future walls seized very (!) This moment so that it was malleable, but did not collapse, and if it was overexposed, it would be difficult to process. We carefully disassemble the frame and we are left with a flat rectangle on the table. If you are making a wall with teeth, then we make the gaps between the teeth by gradually removing the solution with a flat tool (I use a metal ruler for this). Next, loopholes and windows are made. Draw whatever your fantasy tells you. To remove the remnants of the solution, I use a soft brush (probably seen in the movies how archaeologists work). In the end, you will have something like the following on your table.
Leave the finished walls for about a day on the table. Then they can safely be removed from the table and also put in a corner. When the required number of elements has already been made, we select a sunny day for mounting on suburban area. There is another important point here. The castle looks more beautiful on some kind of elevation, on a pile of stones. So prepare a foundation for it. If you use stones, always place the stones on a small layer of mortar first. If this is not done, then the stones will move over time and destroy your beauty.
When the foundation is prepared, we proceed to the assembly. First install on cement mortar, previously applied to the foundation, for example, tower No. 1. We attach wall No. 1 to the tower for mortar. Then we install the tower number 2.
The castle is already beginning to take shape. You are filled with excitement. Next, add wall No. 2 and finish with the installation of tower No. 3. My towers were heavy, so men need to tinker. Thus on this stage Here is the design (top view)
But wall #2 will be part of the building, so I take some bricks and form a rectangle of this building. In order to prevent the solution from getting into windows or doors from the inside, I close them from the inside with something flat (I use pieces flat slate or fragments of flat tiles).
I have the inside of the castle hidden. But if you want her to have beautiful view- you need to make both wall No. 3 and inner part pour for monolith concrete mortar Or fill it with construction debris.
When this structure grabs, form over the building gable roof. It takes me two or three bricks to do this (a mortar is thrown with a spatula and leveled under a cone).
So from the main basic elements, slightly changing them depending on your imagination (for example, you are tired of round towers - make rectangular formwork and the towers will be square, etc.) you can make a complex castle - like this for example.
A castle made of concrete is not very beautiful. How to decorate it?
About imitation. The boulders at the base of the foundation are made very easily as they are of arbitrary shape. Imitation brick requires more patience. Under the ruler, I scratch a series of horizontal lines and then make vertical notches at characteristic intervals. We brush off the debris with a brush. Where the surface is very rough, it can be smoothed by moistening with water from a spray and ironing with a soft brush. When the assembled castle is completely dry, you can tint it a little. Roof to give the appearance of tiles. I use acrylic paint with the right color, for painting brick imitation I purchased such colors for acrylic - black, red, brown, yellow. Green can be taken to imitate moss. With a soft brush, lightly touching the masonry different colors I color the surface. In this case, only the convex surface is painted, while the recessed part remains gray. The effect is amazing. From half a meter it seems that everything is made of small bricks. In one place of the castle, I even imitated a destroyed brick wall. I did not expect such an effect. For a year the castle survived the winter and the paint is like new.
Can you make parts at home? I work in a garage. But in principle, you can do it at home if you don’t litter too much. In this case, the details can be broken down into even smaller ones. Those. for example, make a wall in two parts - the upper one where the teeth and the lower one where the gate. Similarly, make a tower from two or three cylinders or cubes. Then it's easier to transport. This allows you to prepare the castle even in the winter-spring time, and in the summer to assemble it in a couple of days. This is how I prepare dry mix. I fill half a bucket with dry sand, add cement and it mixes very easily with a small children's spatula. I pour all this into a small tub and do the next batch until I fill it. Thus, the dry solution is always in sufficient quantity.
I wish you all success in your work. And be sure to share your results.
First mini castle
The first castle-flower bed was made about eight years ago. The rest is recent - last year and the year before last. The lighthouse is real - it glows at night.
Manufacturing decorative castle do-it-yourself is a fascinating and time-consuming process. This building will interesting decoration at your cottage.
The fairytale kingdom on the garden platform will become a good gift both small and adult dreamers.
Before you start making a castle, prepare the right materials and tools.
Materials:
- Foam sheets.
- Heaters for pipes.
- A crumb of stones or marble.
- Acrylic paint set.
- Construction adhesive.
- Screws.
- Mounting foam with a gun.
Tools:
- Figured screwdriver.
- Thin hacksaw.
- A set of markers.
- Brushes.
- Construction spatula.
- Insulating tape.
- Mass for modeling.
The process of making a decorative castle for the garden with your own hands
First of all, you must decide on the number of walls and towers of your structure. It is best to use a scheme with 3 walls and 6 towers. After that, you can start making walls. To do this, take two sheets of foam and a few plastic pots.
On one of the sheets of foam, draw sketches of the walls. Please note that the height of the towers must match the height of the sheet. The width of the towers must match the width of the roof of the decorative castle. If you want your building to be in a medieval style, you can make battlements on the tower. Leave a small gap around the edges of the walls (4-5 cm). You will have to hide it directly under the turrets.
On the second sheet draw sketches for the towers. Don't forget to cut out the windows. Next, use glue to attach the blanks to the walls. As a result of the performed operations, you should get a wall with two turrets. Windows can be painted with black acrylic paint. Also, don't forget to paint the arch and gates of the castle. If you notice that the side walls of the towers turned out with small ledges, cut them with a hacksaw. Then wait for the paint on the walls to dry and paint the lattice.
After that, start painting the walls. It is best to start with the teeth. First, paint them in the same color background as the plaster. However, you can paint the teeth with regular spray paint. After that, let your design dry. Next, cover the entire surface of the wall decorative plaster. The side walls of the turrets can be left unpainted, they should be dealt with as a last resort.
The next stage is the manufacture of round towers. In order to make them, it is best to use plastic pipes small diameter. If you do not have pipes, you can use four pieces of foam. Cut off a cylinder 10-12 cm long from each of the scraps. You can cut out the teeth and stick them on each of the towers, and while the glue dries, secure the seams with electrical tape.
After the operations done, make longitudinal cuts along the entire length of the workpiece. While the glue dries, you can paint the windows of the tower with black paint. Then cover the workpiece with plaster.
If the tower configuration is rectangular, masonry elements can be added. To do this, use the mass for modeling. If it is not at hand, use ordinary plasticine. When the towers and walls are completely dry, you can start assembling a decorative castle for the garden with your own hands.
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In what sequence to assemble a decorative castle
To make a castle you will need: 3 pieces of pipe, stones, broken tiles, 1.5 l dark bottles and cement mortar.
First of all, you need to make a platform on which a decorative lock will be installed. Undoubtedly, it is best to level it with cement mortar. Before assembling, do not forget to pull the walls with a rope and apply mounting foam to the joints. After that, engage in the installation of round turrets. To do this, insert the walls into the cuts. The missing parts of the towers can be made using construction foam. Firmly press the ends of the cuts to the walls and fill the towers with mounting foam. WITH inside fortress, form the missing parts in the same way, but do not forget to cut off the excess parts of the foam with a hacksaw.
After assembly, you can start making the backlight. It should be made from diffused light fixtures. They need to be placed inside the fortress.
If you consider this method of making a lock too time-consuming, you can resort to another. To do this, you need to acquire an asbestos-cement pipe and concrete mortar. Alternative method has the following sequence:
- First of all, dig the pipes into the soil and concrete them for good stability. Then lay stones around the entire perimeter of the castle. After making several rows of masonry, let the mortar set.
- Next, cut the plastic bottle into 2 pieces. They can be used to make windows.
- After that, proceed to the manufacture of a cone-shaped roof. It can be made from concrete mortar. If desired, you can lay out a mosaic on top.
- Then install the roof on the tower.
- Make an arch if you wish. Use a foam mold as a support, which should be removed after the concrete mortar has set. For better stability of the arch, it is desirable to make grooves.
After the decorative mini-castle for the garden is ready, a flag should be made from the old fabric and attached to the observation tower.
A lot of beautiful and original crafts for the garden you can do it yourself. And it is not necessary to buy some materials for this, old lids, basins, plastic bottles, tires, barrels, boxes, etc. Today I want to show you a very interesting master manufacturing class do-it-yourself castle waste materials and polyurethane foam. The author of this master class is Nadezhda Gulak, she showed us and told us how to make a very pretty castle with your own hands for a garden of foam, cement and waste material. On the site you can also find many interesting and original crafts for the garden made from improvised, unnecessary materials. I think that each of you will definitely choose for yourself the right job. And now let's start making the castle and find out what we need for this.
To make a castle, we need:
* Self-tapping screws.
* Wire.
* Insulation.
* Rabitz.
* Cement mortar.
* Mounting foam.
* Unnecessary basins, barrels, etc.
How to make a lock:
We collect everything that we don’t need to make a castle, various barrels, basins, boxes, etc. and start making.
And now the new settlers came to try out the fairytale palace)))
We take the wire and wrap our workpieces with it and twist it with self-tapping screws for strength. We do this so that later we have a better concrete solution.
To make a castle, we need everything and buckets too.
I think the cat is starting to like our castle)))
We don't take desired box and wrap it with insulation, then coat it with concrete mortar and wrap it with a chain-link mesh.
We pour cobblestones and clay into the boxes and put them in place. It's very hard work here. We also coat everything with concrete mortar and give time to dry.
We draw bricks, windows, in general, whatever our heart desires, on the blank of the castle.
We take iron and cut a cylinder out of it, we will make a roof with a lock from it.
We take the chain-link mesh again and wrap it around the central tower.
Now we will make a balcony for the castle, otherwise what is a castle without a balcony)))
We sculpt the frame of the balcony to the place where it will be located with us.
We make a canopy at will.
Also on the balcony there is a railing, we will make them from polyurethane foam.
We paint everything desired color, decorate, at the end of the work you can cover with yacht varnish. Garden lock ready with your own hands.
The cats really liked the castle, so it can also be called a cat's house)))
It remains to ennoble the area around the castle. Sprinkle gravel.
Do-it-yourself castle for the garden is ready, you can put a princess in it.
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Do you want to surprise your neighbors in the country? Do you dream of plunging into the atmosphere of the Middle Ages? Then build a medieval castle on your site. You can, of course, purchase a prefabricated version in a children's toy store, but at a cost of several thousand rubles, it will look like a large plastic toy. The castle, created by oneself, will look like a real one, and its dimensions and appearance only limited by your imagination.
Materials: stone or wood
For a structure consisting of three walls with towers, you will need the following materials:
- Styrofoam - 5 sheets measuring 100 x 60 cm x 3 cm
- Insulation for pipes "foam", diameter 110 mm - 4 pcs x 1 m
- Decorative plaster based on colored chips - 1-2 large cans
- Small stone or marble chips - 1 kg
- Acrylic paint to match the plaster - 1 can or can
- Dark acrylic paint (black or brown) - 1 can or can
- Plastic flower pots (for roofs) - 2 pcs.
- Glue for polystyrene foam (for example, "Moment Installation") - 2 large tubes
- Long screws (for flagpoles) - 2 pcs
- Mounting foam + gun - 2 cans
Tools
- Thin knife - 1 pc, screwdriver - 1 pc.
- Meter ruler, short ruler, felt-tip pen or marker.
- Narrow paint brushes - 4-5 pcs.
- Spatula - 1 pc.
- Large brushes for painting teeth - 2 pcs.
- Insulating tape - 1 pc.
- Modeling mass (black or brown) - 1 pack
Stage 1. We draw a diagram of the future structure
First you need to determine the constituent parts of the future castle - the number of walls and towers. I offer schemes of three types of walls that can be combined in any quantity. I decided to start with three walls and six towers - three round and three square. You can start work from any wall.
Stage 2. How to make a DIY wall layout
WALL-1. For its manufacture, we need two sheets of foam (preferably white color) and two plastic pot for flowers.
This is how it looks when finished:
We draw a scheme of walls
On one sheet of foam, draw a diagram of the wall with a felt-tip pen. She will be the carrier. The height of the towers is equal to the height of the sheet. The width of each tower is equal to the width of the cache-pot (roof) minus 1 cm. The distance between the teeth must be at least half the width of the teeth. The height of the walls and the middle part is approximately two thirds of the height of the towers. At the edges of the wall, it is necessary to leave 5 cm of an area free of teeth. You will then hide this part under the tower. Carefully cut out with a knife. In the middle part we cut out the gate. We do not cut out windows on the towers.
We draw blanks of towers
On the second sheet of foam we draw blanks for the towers - 6 pieces, 3 for each tower. The size of the blanks is equal to the size of the towers. We cut out windows on four blanks. We do not throw away the cut pieces, they will later be useful to us when painting. We glue the tower blanks on top of each other on the load-bearing wall in the place marked for the towers - glue two blanks on the front side of the wall (glue the blank with windows on top), glue the second blank with windows on the front side bearing wall. As glue, you can use Moment Installation glue. If you intend to use a different adhesive, be sure to first test on scraps of Styrofoam to see if the adhesive is corroding the Styrofoam. The same goes for colors. As a result, we get a wall with two towers, each of which has a thickness of 4 foam sheets. There are blank windows on the front and back walls of the towers. Windows need to be painted inside with dark paint. You also need to paint over the inside of the gate arch and the gate itself. If the side walls of the towers turned out to be protrusions due to the difference in the dimensions of the blanks glued to each other, it is necessary to cut the towers on the sides, aligning the side walls.
We try on the "roof" on the towers. The cache-pot should be freely put on the tower and go on it by 1-2 cm. Please note that after painting the dimensions of the tower will increase by 5-10 mm. Therefore, if the "roof" is difficult to put on, then the tower must also be cut.
After dark paint dry, you can make a “lattice” on the gate. To do this, using a ruler with a screwdriver or scissors, we make deep grooves in the form of a lattice on the painted gates so that unpainted light foam shines through them.
Painting the castle walls
Let's start with the teeth. Painting the teeth with plaster is the most time-consuming operation, so they must first be painted with paint to match the plaster, and the composition itself can only be placed on the front and back sides. You can generally not cover the teeth with plaster, but paint with paint from a spray can in a contrasting dark color, as we did on the third wall.
So, first we paint the teeth with paint to match the plaster. We use spray paint to paint over each tooth from all sides. Let's dry. Then we cover the front surface of wall-1 with decorative plaster. At this time, it is better to lay window openings with pieces of polystyrene foam so that the plaster does not get inside. The brush should be fairly hard and clean. After painting, if possible, it should be washed off the plaster and put into water. It is better not to use one brush more than twice because of stuck plaster. We are not painting the side walls of the towers yet. We will paint them last. We leave the wall blank-1 to dry in the sun for two days. After two days, we turn the product on the back side and also cover it with decorative plaster. In the meantime, it dries, you can do other walls.
WALL-2. For its manufacture, we need two sheets of foam.
This is how it looks in finished form (the outermost prong on each side then had to be cut off):
This wall is a variation of the first wall. Only here the tower is in the middle, and the gate is on the side. In addition, the teeth, as well as the tower, are cut from another sheet, and the windows are made through. Windows on right side the walls are lined with tabs painted dark. The windows on the left side are through. The height of the walls and the tower is equal to the height of the sheet.
So, we mark the gates, windows and a place for the tower on the first sheet. We cut out all windows, incl. and on the tower, we paint the cut out pieces of windows in a dark color. Then we paint in dark color the openings of windows and gates, as well as the gates themselves. After applying the plaster, you will need to insert the dark pieces of windows on the right side of the wall back into the openings. Leave the rest of the windows blank.
From the second sheet we cut out two blanks with windows. We make windows on the same level with the windows located on the tower, on the load-bearing wall. Separately, we cut out two or four blanks for the teeth for the right and left parts of the main wall. We glue the tower blanks on the front and back sides of the load-bearing wall, aligning the window openings. Then we also glue the teeth - on both sides of the load-bearing wall. I glued the teeth on only one side, using only two blanks, because. originally planned to make an extension behind the second half of the wall. The tower is made up of three layers. The thickness of the tower can be increased by using an additional false wall glued to the front side of the tower (as we did when making wall-1).
Do not forget to leave the edges on both sides free of 3-5 cm teeth, which will then be hidden under the towers, and make rectangular cutouts for joints measuring 3 x 1.5 cm along the edges on the back of the wall.
We paint over the teeth with paint to match the plaster. After the paint dries, we cover the front side of the wall with decorative plaster (you can not cover the teeth with plaster). Then we sprinkle a part of the wall around the gate with small stone chips and, patting, melt the crumb into the plaster. Crumbs can be sprinkled on the second half of the surface. After that, we leave the entire structure to dry for a couple of days, while we ourselves will be engaged in the manufacture of the third wall.
WALL-3. For its manufacture, we need one whole sheet of foam and pieces of the sheet remaining after the manufacture of the second.
This is how it looks in finished form (the extreme teeth then also had to be cut off in order to hide the edge in a round tower):
This type of wall is quite simple to manufacture, but looks quite impressive. Three retaining walls and teeth are glued to the main sheet. Teeth are painted acrylic paint in a contrasting color. After painting with plaster, the wall is covered with a thin layer of stone chips.
The teeth on this wall have a more complex structure - the top row is formed from wide teeth (3x3 cm), and the bottom row from narrow ones (4x1.5 cm).
We cut out the teeth from strips 10 cm high. To do this, the strip must be divided into 3 parts - 3 cm high, 3 cm and 4 cm high. On the first strip 3 cm high, we cut out teeth 3 x 3 cm in size, the distance between them is -1.5 cm. On the lower strip with a height of 4 cm, we make a triangular cut at an angle along the length of the entire strip, leaving a strip 1 cm thick at the bottom. After that, on the lower strip, we cut out long teeth measuring 1.5 x 4 cm. The distance between the lower teeth is no more than 1.5 cm Then we paint the teeth with paint using a spray can and a thin brush, carefully painting between them. The teeth can be painted either to match the plaster or in a contrasting color.
Then, from the remnants of the foam, we cut out three retaining walls in the form of triangles or trapezoids, the height of which should be at least a third and not more than half the height of the wall. We glue the supports and teeth on the main wall. Do not forget to leave 3-5 cm free from teeth on both sides, which will then be hidden under the towers, and make rectangular cutouts for joints measuring 3 x 1.5 cm along the edges on the back of the wall.
We put the structure face up and cover everything except the teeth with decorative plaster:
Then we sprinkle the entire surface with small pebbles, gently pressing them into the plaster.
While the third wall dries, you can paint with plaster reverse side the first two, if their front sides have already dried by this moment. Lastly, we paint over the sides of the towers, placing the walls on the end. Let each side dry for two days.
Now you can start working on the corner round towers.
Stage 3. Round towers of the knight's fortress
For the manufacture of round towers, you can use any thick pipes of the desired diameter that can be processed with a knife, for example, “shells” for pipe insulation made of foam. If they are not there, then you can use a heater for pipes of the "foam" type with a diameter of 110 mm, sold on any construction market.
For the manufacture of three towers, we need four meter pieces of foam. From each of the four pieces we cut off cylinders 8-10 cm long and cut out teeth half the height of the workpiece. We cut the ring of teeth along the height and glue them on top of each of the three towers, wrapping them around the main part of the tower. We cut off the missing pieces with teeth from the fourth workpiece. While the glue dries, for a better fit, we fix the seams with electrical tape.
Next, on each tower we make longitudinal cuts along the length, equal in height to the height of the walls (60 cm) and in width - a little more than twice the thickness of the walls. The width of the cuts can be increased after painting, when you insert walls into them.
For variety, one or more towers can be decorated with an additional cylinder with high narrow windows. The overlay is made from the remaining fourth piece of foam.
While the glue dries, we paint over the windows on the tower with black paint, and only after that in three or four steps we cover the elements with plaster, turning them by 90-120 degrees. Carefully paint over the teeth.
While the towers are drying, you can start making small parts for them and walls, such as roofs, flags, coats of arms, cornices, small windows. The number of details depends only on your imagination and patience. You just need to keep the proportions.
Metal buttons and stripes can be used as a coat of arms. Flags can be made from colored self-adhesive paper, but it is better to use self-adhesive film. We stick the flag on a long screw. The screws are screwed into plastic planters for flowers. We paint the cache-pot in red, drawing some details with black paint. The coat of arms is attached above the gate with the same plaster or glue.
Masonry elements can be added to rectangular towers and walls. To do this, you can use the black modeling mass, which is sold in children's stores and in the stationery departments. You can also use plasticine, but the advantage of the mass for modeling is that in air, unlike plasticine, it freezes.
We made the roof for the middle tower from half paving slabs black color.
By the way, after the plaster on the round turrets dried up, and the towers stood in the rain for several days, the plaster began to move away from the foam near the edges of the cut, as Orange peel, and we had to additionally glue this “crust” with Moment Installation glue. Helped.
After drying, you can proceed to the most important stage - the assembly of the castle.
Stage 4. Assembling a medieval castle
Despite the fact that the design of the castle allows it to be moved to any place, it is still better to assemble the building on the site where it will stand.
The site for the castle must be prepared in advance. It should be flat and preferably without a slope. We made a castle to decorate the pond, so our platform had a slight slope towards the pond, which added additional difficulties for us when installing it. In order for the castle to stand evenly, it was necessary to cut the walls at an angle from below, since the foam plastic, even covered with massive plaster, is easily cut.
Having installed and connected the walls to each other, it is necessary to tighten the entire structure around the perimeter with a rope or cable, and then “glue” the walls at the joints with mounting foam. After the foam dries at the joints, remove the rope and begin to install round towers. To do this, we put the towers on top of the corners of the castle, inserting the walls into the longitudinal cuts made in the towers. If the incision is small, increase it to right size so that the turrets fit snugly against the walls from the outside. The missing part of the towers on the inside of the castle can then be formed using polyurethane foam. We tightly press the edges of the cuts to the walls of the castle, if necessary, supporting each tower with stops, and fill the towers from the inside with mounting foam, making small protruding slides on top. In addition, it is possible to form the missing parts of the turrets from the inside of the building using mounting foam. To do this, we form a protrusion of the desired shape from foam at the junction of the walls, and after the foam hardens, cut off the excess with a knife and plaster. We limited ourselves to covering the internal joints of the walls with plaster.
After the foam dries, we carefully cut off the slides protruding above the towers with a knife so that a flat area is formed on top, which we also cover with plaster.
Then we remove all the remnants of the foam in the places where the towers adjoin the walls and paint over them with plaster. After that, the castle must be covered and allowed to dry for two or three days until the plaster is completely dry.
Now you can go to last stage- backlight.
The final stage. Building lighting
Undoubtedly, a castle built with your own hands will decorate your site at any time of the day. But it will look most impressive in the evening if you make a special highlight.
As a backlight, you can use diffused light fixtures on solar panels to be placed inside the castle. Then, through the through windows and open gates of the castle, located on the second wall, a faint light will stream at night, enlivening the castle and giving it mystery. And solar directional light fixtures built into the “stones” and installed outside will illuminate the walls from all sides.
But to illuminate the front wall, it is better to use a stationary directional light, into which a color-changing light bulb is screwed. And then the effect will be extraordinary.
And finally, a few more practical tips.
How to make your site or garden unique is the dream of many owners. Many people love to decorate their own estate, cottage, yard, but not everyone has extra money that could be spent on decorative figurines. But this is not a problem for those who at least know how to do something with their own hands.
It does not even require special costs.
So, for example, a fairy-tale kingdom on the garden site will be a good gift for both small and adult dreamers.
Even a mini-castle built in the country will add mystery to the site.
Mini-castles in the yard or for the garden are large enough in volume, and building it completely is a bit difficult.
You can try to make some parts of the castle separately, so that later in any part of the garden, in the country you can assemble it from finished elements like cubes.
An example of a design for building a castle in the country
easy to disassemble. To reduce the consumption of the solution, cans or bottles can be placed inside the cylinder, but the thickness of the solution around the ballast must be at least 5 cm.
The solution for pouring should be thick enough. He needs to be given several hours to grab to such a state that the formwork does not crumble when removed. The height of the cylindrical formwork should be chosen as follows: it should be approximately equal to the height of the tower, with a smaller size, the formwork will need to be disassembled and assembled a little higher than the already seized lower part.
Making a castle for a summer residence is easy if you have a couple of “golden hands” available.
The main material is sand and cement for the longevity of the composition. 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.
Elements of a typical design.
Let's start with the towers.
A cylinder of the desired radius is rolled up from a sheet of iron (I have about 2-30 cm). The cylinder is fixed with wire or self-tapping screws
Anything is placed inside the cylinder - bottles, cans - to reduce the consumption of the solution, but the thickness to the ballast must be at least 5 cm. Fill with a thick solution.
We give him several hours to set to such a state that when the formwork is removed, it does not crumble. 
We immediately begin to cut the raw, slightly seized solution.
The cutting technology is the same as that of the sandboxes. For cutting, use a set of tools available to everyone.
Do not forget to make windows, loopholes, picking out the desired recess with a knife.
The mold is poured with mortar and after partial setting, carefully remove the cylinder formwork and make the required number of windows, teeth - as fantasy tells. 
The roof can be made from tin cones, and this tin cone can also be used as a mold for pouring mortar. After complete setting, carefully knock out our roof from the mold. Do not forget that we are still preparing individual elements of the castle. We'll put it all together later.
Let's start building walls. Our walls will be either fortress (1) or an element of the building (2).
There is no difference in their production.
We assemble a rectangle of the right size from boards 5 cm wide. We put it on a flat surface, having previously placed either a film or a piece of roofing material so that the solution that is then poured is not absorbed.
You can place a metal arch in this frame - this will be a door or gate. Pour the solution into the frame. Where no windows or doors are planned, gravel or broken bricks can be poured to the bottom to save mortar.
After the mortar is poured to the desired height, you can take pretty pebbles from gravel and poke them at the base of the foundation so that they protrude with flat edges above the general plane of the mortar by about 5 mm.
Next, loopholes and windows are made. Draw whatever your fantasy tells you. To remove the remnants of the solution, I use a soft brush (probably seen in the movies how archaeologists work). In the end, you will have something like the following on your table.
Leave the finished walls for about a day on the table. When the foundation is prepared, we proceed to the assembly.
First, we install it on a cement mortar previously applied to the foundation, for example, tower No. 1. We attach wall No. 1 to the tower for mortar. Then we install the tower number 2.
The castle is already beginning to take shape. You are filled with excitement. Next, add wall No. 2 and finish with the installation of tower No. 3.
Assembly diagram:
When this structure grabs, form a gable roof over the building.
So, from the main basic elements, slightly changing them depending on your imagination, you can make a complex castle - like this for example.
Or a very simple one:
