How siding is laid according to all the rules. Sheathing a house with siding - simplicity and functionality Vinyl siding instructions
The roller is designed so that you can choose the right siding for exterior finish structures. The material is different in its characteristics and so that the design retains its appearance unchanged for a long time, you should listen to the advice of experts when buying material.
Preparing for siding installation
The video is intended to familiarize you with the preparatory work before starting the installation of siding. The video also lists the necessary materials and tools and rules for taking measurements. The instruction will be especially useful for those who are engaged in such a process for the first time.
Siding installation rules
In the second video, you will learn about the rules for fastening siding panels and the consequences if they are neglected. Installation must be carried out taking into account external influences on the material and its changes in connection with this. To avoid deformation, you should strictly follow these recommendations.
Vinyl siding part 1
From this video you will learn the process of production of Döte vinyl siding and important points during its installation. The video shows necessary set fasteners and tools you will need to get the job done.
Vinyl siding part 2
And in this video you will find answers to questions that you may have during the installation of both horizontal and vertical siding. Since the installation methods for these two types differ from each other, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances in order to avoid errors.
Installing siding on the walls of the facade of the house can be done quickly and easily if you know some important features installation. Technology correct installation siding primarily provides careful preparation the base of the entire surface of the facade. Aligning the walls relative to the vertical level is the key to quick and correct installation siding. In the article, we will consider some important features of installing siding with our own hands, and the video instruction below will clearly help you understand the nuances of installation.
Do-it-yourself siding installation features
Today to the most popular and budget materials for finishing the facade, vinyl and metal siding can be attributed. Installing vinyl or metal siding is quick and easy enough that you can do it yourself. Siding installation should always be carried out on a pre-prepared frame, consisting of dry and even wooden bars (budget option), as well as on a crate made of metal profile.
Do-it-yourself siding installation technology
- Experts recommend using dry wooden blocks or metal profiles as a material for installing battens for siding. The bars must be free of cracks and knots, be sure to be dry and even, and also not rotten. It is not recommended to use larch bars, because, firstly, they are heavy, uncomfortable, and secondly, self-tapping screws are poorly screwed into them and nails are hammered. Perfect and also economical option for bars it is pine.
- It is better to choose bars along the length of no more than 3 m, with such a length they are less susceptible to deformation during storage and transportation. The width of the bar should not be less than 30 mm, and the thickness should not be less than 25 mm. Ideally, it is better to use a bar of 30x40 mm, or 30x50 mm.
- You can also make a crate for siding from a metal profile. Galvanized steel profiles are perfectly flat and strong enough, so this the best option for the subsystem, although such a crate will cost a little more, unlike wooden bars.
- Basically, for the installation of battens for siding, the PP profile brand (galvanized ceiling profile) is widely used. The length of such a profile is 3 m, width 60 mm, with a height of 27 mm. Usually, the length of the profile is enough for the crate for cladding with siding of one-story buildings, and with a facade height of more than 3 m, the profiles are extended, and the profile must also be inserted under the sheathing of the gable part of the wall.
The bars are installed to the wall as follows:
- Depending on the type of siding, metal or vinyl is made necessary markup on the wall. So for vinyl siding, the step between the bars of the crate is no more than 300-400 mm, and for metal siding at least 400-600 mm. Marking for the installation of hangers for mounting rails is best done with a pencil or chalk using a profile or bar for this, as well as a building level.
- For quick marking, draw marks on the lower part of the facade with a suitable pitch and, relying on them using a profile and a level, draw marks for installing hangers in the upper part of the wall. Repeat the operation on the next walls.
- At the height of one bar or profile of 3 m, it is necessary to fix at least 4-5 hangers approximately every 50-60 cm.
IMPORTANT! Metal straight hangers for the installation of siding battens are used mainly for light type finishing materials(vinyl or metal siding) use, for example, such fasteners for facade cladding with heavy fiber cement panels for exterior finish home is inappropriate. In the case of heavy types of facade cladding materials, special metal brackets are used to fasten the subsystem, securely fixed to the wall.
- To the wooden wall the suspension is fixed in the center of the marked line with two wood screws at least 30 cm long.
- After that, the suspensions are bent in a U-shape and a profile is inserted into them.
- Installation of all profiles should start from the installation of profiles at the corners of the wall. To do this, set the profile first in one corner by level, and then repeat the operation on the other.
- Screw up and down corner profiles self-tapping screws and, leaning on the fasteners, pull the construction control cord from below and above.
IMPORTANT! The cord is a control element, so when exposing all other profiles along it, try not to touch or knock down the lacing.
The crate is exposed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe facade, now you can start installing the siding with your own hands.
Features of installing horizontal siding
- Horizontal installation of siding panels is the preferred option. This type of installation is used almost everywhere, as it has good aesthetic performance, and also better protects the facade from atmospheric phenomena.
- It is necessary to fasten the siding horizontally to the crate mounted vertically. The starting profile in this case is also fixed in horizontal position, departing from the base 1-2 cm, (depending on the evenness of the foundation itself relative to the horizontal level).
- You should install the siding panel with your own hands from the very bottom, hooking its lower edge to the initial profile and carefully screw it to the crate without tension, while the panel must be pushed almost back to back (retreating 3-5 mm) into the corner or connecting profile. This is necessary in order to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the panel during temperature changes, thereby preventing its deformation.
Vertical siding installation
To install siding vertically, you will need horizontal mounting accessories. In this case, the siding panel will have to be fixed from top to bottom, starting from the corner (corner profiles are installed before the siding is installed) into the groove of which it is necessary to push the bottom edge of the panel. The starting rail is not needed for this installation. Self-tapping screws should be screwed into the profiled holes of the siding panel in the upper part of the slot (not completely), leaving a small gap of about 1-1.5 mm, compensating for temperature effects.
How to properly install siding on a metal or wooden crate
- Siding can be installed both on a wooden subsystem and on a metal one. Siding installation technology on wooden bars involves the use of wood screws with rare carvings of at least 30 cm in length. In rare cases, nails are used as a fastener (not recommended).
- To the metal crate, the siding is installed on metal screws with a drilling or sharp tip, while the length of the screw should be a minimum of no more than 20 mm, so it is better, faster and more reliable to screw the screw into the metal profile.
IMPORTANT! Do-it-yourself self-tapping screws for installing siding with your own hands should be used galvanized, so you will prevent rusty smudges on the surface of the siding cladding.
- The siding fastening technology provides for the preliminary installation of fittings of all additional accessories and elements. In a set for siding, you must purchase start and finish strips, connecting profiles, corner elements, slope strips, spotlights. Only after all additional elements are installed, you can proceed with the installation of the siding itself.
Finally
The price per square meter of siding from various companies can reach 500-1000 rubles. Therefore, it is advisable to take steps to do-it-yourself siding installation and save a lot of money at the same time. The money saved can be invested in the purchase of finishing materials or insulation.
In fact, there is nothing difficult in installing siding with your own hands. All you need is a little desire and a little bit of optimism, and also have a pencil, tape measure, level, screwdriver and grinder on hand.
Do-it-yourself siding installation: video instruction
It is necessary to choose a material that will provide a high degree of protection of the walls from negative impact environment and be able to save decorative properties throughout the entire period of operation. That is why many people choose siding for finishing not only new buildings, but also for restoring erected buildings and objects. extra costs do the installation of siding with your own hands - the instruction for dummies describes in detail all the stages of work.
The popularity of siding is difficult to overestimate due to its versatility, affordability and aesthetics.
Finishing with siding panels of buildings, in comparison with other materials, has the following advantages:
- High resistance to negative external factors: precipitation, sudden changes in temperature, certain chemical compounds and ultraviolet radiation. The material retains its strength and decorative properties throughout the entire period of operation declared by the manufacturer.
- The design of the sheathing and lathing has a minimum weight, which allows finishing objects with shallow foundations without additional strengthening of the supporting structure.
- No need for alignment facade walls thanks to the installation on the crate. This significantly reduces the time of work, and also allows you to lay heat and waterproofing layers in the space between the wall and the siding.
- Undemanding cladding for care or any maintenance.
- High level of fire safety and resistance to minor mechanical stress.
- The presence of a wide range of decorative colors will allow you to choose the necessary one without any problems and make it unique design at home, without spending money on the purchase and painting in desired color. Moreover, unique textured images with imitation are also available. natural materials, characterized by a clear and rich pattern.
- A simple installation technology available for development by people who have not previously encountered construction work.
Types of additional components
In order to simplify the installation of facade cladding, many additional components are produced to ensure a tight fit to various elements of the house, mounting surfaces of complex shapes, as well as reliable engagement with the main wall. The components are designed to ensure the rigidity and stability of the structure, as well as prevent the formation of moisture on inside material.
Important information! The material of the components must match the siding in order to ensure uniform thermal characteristics and prevent deformations due to the difference in thermal expansion coefficients. Therefore, it is recommended to use only original additional and fasteners.
List of additional accessories:
- The start and finish strips help avoid distortions and other installation errors, as well as improve the decorative properties of the finish.
- corner elements. Designed to decorate the corners of the building and hide the crate. Protect from hit of dust and moisture on an internal surface of panels.
- Window and door platbands are designed to finish the junctions of the corresponding openings. J-profiles can also be used for these purposes, but they have worse aesthetic properties.
- Window and door profiles are used for finishing and protection against external environment slopes. Due to their use, the slopes look natural and aesthetically pleasing.
- J profile. It is used for fastening of ordered panels in the side part. It has versatility, therefore it is also used instead of platbands, finishing and corner profiles, even though there are specialized elements.
- J-bevel. A special element designed to be installed as a cornice. It is a specialized replacement for the J-profile in roof connection installations.
- Low tide. Used to remove moisture from the roof, as well as the design of window and door openings.
- Ceiling spotlights. Designed for finishing ceilings of open structures: terraces, summer kitchens, etc. They can be made solid or perforated. They perform not only decorative functions, but also provide ventilation of the space between the wall and the siding along the crate, and also protect internal structures from pests.
- Moldings. They serve to connect horizontal and vertical planes of panels.
- H-profile. It is used for building panels along the length.
Siding installation price per m 2 for work
Sheathing with siding of objects with the involvement of professional teams of builders will be performed with high quality and in the shortest possible time. At the same time, it is not necessary to order the execution of a full range of works, but only individual services are sufficient.
The cost of the work will depend on the following factors:
- The number of window and door openings, the sheathing of which requires a significant waste of time and the use of special additional elements.
- Wall areas.
- The complexity of the work. This concept includes the presence of walls with complex plane transitions, the need to install insulating layers, type of wall material and other factors.
- The type of material selected.
In each case, the miscalculation will be performed by a specialist of the selected company. The table below shows the prices for the installation of siding, the price per m 2 for work.
approximate cost carrying out basic and auxiliary work during the installation of siding for Moscow| Facade works | Unit rev. | price, rub. |
|---|---|---|
| Installing vinyl siding on walls | m2 | 250 |
| Installing vinyl siding on a roof | m2 | 300 |
| Fiber cement siding installation | m2 | 680 |
| Installation of a hydro-vapor barrier film | m2 | 60 |
| Installation wooden crate on wood | m2 | 100 |
| Installation of wooden crates on brick or concrete | m2 | 200 |
| Installation of insulation 50 mm | m2 | 90 |
| Installation of insulation 100 mm | m2 | 170 |
| Fire-bio processing of timber | running meters | 14 |
| Fire-bio wood surface treatment | m2 | 80 |
| Fire-bio processing boards | running meters | 19 |
| Installation of metal tides | running meters | 100 |
| Installation of ventilation grilles | PC. | 140 |
Preparatory work
Before carrying out installation work on the cladding of the facade, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. They include the following steps: choosing the type of panels and lathing, calculating materials and additional elements, as well as determining the number of heat and waterproofing layers.
Panel type selection
The choice of material for sheathing largely determines the service life of the entire structure, strength and performance characteristics. Currently, the choice is limited to the following options:
- Wood. Is different high level thermal insulation, environmental friendliness and excellent decorative qualities. Its cost is minimal compared to other types of siding. However, it has short term service (up to 8 years) and requires periodic maintenance (treatment with antiseptics and painting).
- Metal. It has strength and durability, resistance to mold, fungi and pests, and is also able to withstand significant temperature changes. It is very sensitive to damage, since even a small scratch on the protective layer can lead to the onset of corrosion processes.
- Vinyl. It is the most profitable option, as it is devoid of all the disadvantages of wood and metal siding. It has a minimum weight, is resistant to any precipitation, environmentally friendly, has a maximum service life of up to 50 years. It features a wide range of colors. With such advantages, the cost this material relatively low, so it is recommended to choose it by experts. Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation video will allow you to appreciate all the advantages of this material.
Calculation of the amount of materials
The amount of material can be calculated quite simply if you have a building project on hand. Otherwise, you will have to measure the length and width of each of the walls, as well as window and door openings. Based on the data obtained, a sketch or drawing should be made. After that, the amount of material that will be used to create the crate is determined, taking into account the uniform arrangement of vertical or horizontal guides with an interval of 40-50 cm and fasteners along the guides with the same interval.
Helpful information! You can use the building project for calculations only if it was erected no later than 2-3 years. It is connected with possible appearance defects on the walls (for example, cracks caused by subsidence of the foundation), which, after elimination, can cause the walls to widen by several centimeters. When installing the facade cladding of a building, this is critical in that you have to find a way out of the situation already during the installation process.
After calculating the amount of materials for the crate, you need to calculate the number of panels. This is easy enough to do by dividing total area walls, minus the areas of openings, by the dimensions of one panel. It is recommended to add a margin of approximately 10-15% to the obtained value, which will take into account possible damage during delivery or installation.
Calculator for calculating the quantity and cost of siding for a house
For an unprepared person, the variety of materials for exterior decoration available on modern market, may cause some confusion.
Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for house cladding. The only issue is the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.
If there is no experience finishing works, the best solution is siding, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishes:
- There is no need for "wet" work (plastering, etc.).
- Restrictions on weather or temperature conditions are set by the employee according to his own feelings.
- To install the material does not require any special skills, ease of installation provides the possibility of self-plating at home.
- The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.
This article is step by step instructions on mounting for teapots.
Siding is a sheathing material used for exterior decoration of buildings. It has the shape of oblong narrow strips with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden building(most often) or, less commonly, masonry.
Strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to a support on one side and for connecting to each other - on the other. The design allows you to collect canvases of any size from them.
Siding is assembled on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are light in weight, so it is easy to lift and carry them. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels need help.
The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.
The first samples were wooden, today there are different types of material:
- (PVC, acrylic, etc.)
The most common plastic (PVC) and metal types siding with the best performance or the most successful combination of quality and price.
In addition, there are many profile options:
- Timberblock.
- etc.
Mounting direction:
- Horizontal.
- siding.
Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.
Developers are constantly adding the lineup, so there can be no exhaustive list, the list always remains open.
Siding kit
In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (additions) are produced that serve to decorate the joints of different canvases at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or doorways etc.
to standard types can be attributed:
- Simple and complex angle (external and internal).
- H-profile.
- J-bar.
- Starting bar.
- Finish plank.
- Platband.
- Soffit.
- Circumferential profile.
All additional elements are fully consistent with the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.
Attention! Sometimes, as a decoration, extensions of a different, contrasting color are used, which gives the sheathing an elegant and original look.
The choice of crates - which is better, wood or metal?
Sheathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as a support for them. As a material for the crate, it is customary to use wooden bars or metal guides for drywall.
Disputes about that have been heard from the very first days of using the skin. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and need to be insulated.
At the same time, wooden parts There is general illness- they are subject to warping, deformation during shrinkage and decay. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanizing.
Another problem with wooden bars is curvature. Picking a perfectly straight piece from a stack of timber is a difficult task, as wood is highly susceptible to warping or screwing. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.
Thus more good option to create the crate, a metal profile is presented, but the cavity formed by it should be taken into account and filled in parallel with the installation of the insulation.
Installation of the selected crate
Installation of the crate begins with the installation of extreme strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall in the corners, the position is checked by a plumb line. Then a cord is pulled between the extreme strips (at least two), which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the crate and ensure the plane.
Intermediate strips are installed with a step that allows you to tightly lay insulation boards between them. To ensure a plane, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden crates) or adjust the height of the metal profile above the wall plane when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.
After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that provides optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).
The control grill performs additional function providing a ventilation gap between the casing and the wall cake, which ensures the removal of steam a.
NOTE!
If you are not planning to install outer insulation, then mounted immediately carrier layer battens (perpendicular to siding panels).
Warming and waterproofing
During the installation of the crate, external wall insulation can be performed. As a heater, a material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected.. This moment is very important, otherwise water (condensate) will accumulate on the border of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.
Therefore, the most preferred insulation there will be slab mineral wool, which freely passes water vapor. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a layer of hydroprotection should be installed.. This is done at the stage of finishing the installation of the first layer of the crate and insulation.
A layer of a waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents the ingress of moisture from the outside. The counter-lattice is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.
Installation of the starting bar (J profiles)
The starting bar is the support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the intended bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting bar is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate.
CAREFULLY!
Self-tapping screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the bar to move freely. The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the elongated holes, so that during temperature shifts the part can move and compensate for dimensional changes without deformation of the skin plane. This rule applies to all siding elements.
The next bar is not fastened closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for thermal expansion.
How is siding installed?
The siding panel is inserted with its lower edge into the lock of the starting bar, snapped into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the sheathing "grows" from the bottom up (or sideways if a vertical siding type is chosen).
Attention! In some cases, top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems have been found.
Installation of internal corner strips
The installation of the corners is carried out before the installation of the main panels, immediately after fixing the starting bar. The inner corner profile is fastened with the lower edge at the level of the starting bar, the density of the self-tapping screws is recommended to be 25-30 cm.
If the starting bar prevents you from positioning the profile on right place, from the corner profile, cut the nail strips to a length equal to the width start profile plus temperature difference.
If necessary, increase the corner strip, cut off the top nail strips by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water flow. The overlap is not more than 25 mm, so that the temperature gap is observed.
You can make a corner connection using a J-strip, which is cheaper than a corner one. This can be done with one plank, when it is tightly adjacent to the outer edge of the row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed in it.
The second option is to use two planks on each side of the corner, while there is a danger of water penetrating into the gap between the planks, since the absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.
Installation of external corner strips
External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the element's reverse geometry. The same method of overlapping, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located at the corners close to each other.
For outer corners, a simpler design method is possible - using a simple corner, which is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the junction of the planes is the most accurate, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option is the most preferable, because it is simpler and for unprepared people, this option seems to be optimal.
How to lengthen siding strips
If it is necessary to end-join the panels, an H-profile or a simple overlap joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm, for its implementation it is necessary to cut off the nail strip from the top and part of the lock from the bottom from one panel to the length of the overlap and plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. Overlapping is best done at random - in each row of panels on different places so as not to weaken the entire canvas.
H-profile installation
The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of the H-profile makes the longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetic, allows you to immediately cut to length right amount panels for this area.
Installation of ordinary siding panels
It starts immediately after the installation of the starting strip and the corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut to the desired length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.
The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and fastened along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.
The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free play. The next panel is attached in the same way. By itself, the process of creating a plane is simple and does not require special knowledge, except for those indicated.
Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are found.
Loose connections or other causes may prevent the panels from being properly positioned, causing slight misalignment. If not produced constant control, then by the end of the installation, the changes may become noticeable and the whole work will be spoiled. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.
How to siding around windows and doorways
They are drawn up in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of planting the block in the plane of the wall.
For the design of openings that are in the same plane with the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of the siding, so the installation of the trim is done before installing the main panels.
If the openings have a depth of up to 20 cm, then a J-bar is used. Its installation is carried out on top of the finished panels, on the window frame around the perimeter it is necessary to fix the finishing bar.
At large depths of openings, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut off taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and recruited according to the usual principle. A universal bar is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex angle is mounted on the outer junction of the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install extensions before mounting the main panels.
To finish the slopes on them, it is necessary to first install the crate, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of the slope, the lathing of the openings is set perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is provided by the position of the finishing or universal strips.
Siding finish strip
The finishing bar forms the upper (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fastened strictly horizontally at the desired height, the nail plank on the last panel is cut off.
The panel with a cut edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing bar and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the size of the required gap is observed, the lock securely fixes the panel in the plane of the leaf.
NOTE!
For the correct installation of the finish strip and the last panel, an accurate calculation is made in advance, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate gable sheathing is planned.
Gable siding installation
Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main canvas. It will require a fairly accurate trim in length and at an angle.
A feature of the design is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with cutting panels at an angle, at which errors are possible, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start the installation from the back sides of the house, so that before moving to the front side there is some experience.
Useful video
In this video you will learn how to install siding:
Conclusion
Do-it-yourself siding installation is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is the looseness of fastening parts and compliance with temperature gaps, all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should abandon the haste and act deliberately, then the result will become the pride of the owner of the house.
In contact with
Siding is not new. We are accustomed to using different types of this material, it is found both on the facades and in the interior, in buildings of all purposes.
How to fix the siding to create a flat surface, decorate the facade - the question worries many individual developers.
Hearing that siding began to be used for the first time in America, a Russian carpenter a couple of centuries ago simply shrugged. What siding? Look at the Russian North: half of the churches are sheathed with boards, and even residential buildings were “playful” - they were sheathed with thin wooden planks under different corner, - protection from bad weather, concern for durability. Once again, "ours" comes to us from the West under a new name. The historical tour is over.
What is modern siding, what types exist, how to properly fix siding to the wall, how to fix it?
To date, this type of finishing panels is produced from a variety of materials:
- Vinyl;
- Acrylic;
- fiber cement;
- Steel;
- Aluminum;
- Wood.
Most often, vinyl siding is used - very light, easy to install, durable, attractive at a low price. TO negative characteristics brittleness applies: it is pressed through and breaks with an accidental strong impact.
Acrylic siding is stronger than vinyl siding, more resistant to freezing temperatures and UV radiation.
Fiber cement is noticeably heavier, but its strength is much higher than the previous ones. Durable, resistant to temperature fluctuations, has many different designs that mimic natural materials.
from galvanized steel sheet with painting according to RAL, two types of metal siding are produced:
- Rack siding is a durable material that allows you to diversify color scheme facade and protect the wall from negative natural factors.
- Block house - imitating log wall. This type of finish positive qualities steel lath, gives the wall the aesthetics of a house made of logs.
Aluminum is much lighter than steel, reduces the load on walls and foundations, is durable, but not resistant to mechanical damage.
Wooden siding is a classic of the genre, but in order to maintain the finish in working condition, it requires the renewal of fire-fighting and antiseptic impregnation at intervals of 3-5 years, depending on the composition used.
Siding is produced with a variety of surface designs, it can imitate rubble and brickwork, plaster "bark beetle", can be plain-colored and with a perforated surface. In most cases, individual developers choose vinyl: siding can be fixed to any wall, they are attracted by the low price of the material and the possibility of mounting on wooden rails.
Before installation
All types of panels perform two functions:
- Aesthetic - decorate the facade.
- Utilitarian - protect the facade from the weather.
The panels are also mounted according to the same principle: special combs are installed on the rails, panels are put on them. The layout of the panels can be varied: horizontal, vertical, at an angle. What to mount siding on? Two options: special fasteners (more often used for metal and fiber cement) or wooden beams.
Like any other work in building a house, it requires accuracy, but it is quite accessible to a beginner. In order to obtain a quality flat surface cladding requires compliance with the rules, in case of non-compliance with which there will be no one to blame for poor-quality work:
- Before installation, prepare the wall - clean it of dirt, repair the plaster if necessary, level the surface, dismantle the ebbs and aprons.
- When - treat the walls with fungicidal and fire-fighting compounds.
- Check the tightness of the connections - window and door filling, input-output communications.
- Install the guides strictly vertically, aligning the front with gaskets or special branded fasteners.
- Observe the tolerances for the initial and final strips, within the openings.
IMPORTANT: if necessary, insulate the house and complete the cladding possible options actions:
- The combination of processes, in this case we get the system "ventilated facade".
- With simultaneous insulation, the guide rails of the insulation system and the cladding are attached in parallel.
- Division of work, installation of siding on an insulated surface.
In the first case, it is necessary to use special fasteners and slab fibrous insulation with a laminated surface or geotextile, fasten the cladding at a distance of at least 40 mm from the insulation.
In the second case, it is possible to use expanded polystyrene plates and “wet plaster”.
It is preferable to perform work in the third way, the cladding is mounted on an already leveled surface.
It would be useful to clean the space from vegetation and debris at a distance of up to 50 cm from the wall, and when finishing a house with a height of 2 or more floors, the construction of scaffolding that can be rented.
Necessary materials and tools
Having chosen the type of plank, we purchase the materials necessary for work:
- straps starting, finishing, corner;
- slats for framing window and door openings;
- joint strips masking the vertical seam between the rails;
- soffits located under the roof overhang;
- beam for framing.
Tools needed:
- Saw (jigsaw or grinder).
- Drill, screwdriver.
- Hammer.
- Roulette, building level.
- Pliers.
- Ladder stepladder.
Required protective equipment: goggles, respirator, gloves. Having prepared the scope of work, we proceed to installation.
Installation
Work begins with the implementation of the lathing from the timber minimum cross section 20 x 40 mm. The timber must be dried to 15-22% moisture, impregnated with fungicide and antipyrine.
With a horizontal layout of the siding, we fasten the beam vertically, with a vertical layout of the rail - horizontally with a step of no more than 600 mm. We check the vertical with a plumb line. Be sure to install the bars along the edges of the openings of windows and doors.
To fasten the beam to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws, when fastening to an insulated wall - dowel - with screws longer than the thickness of the insulation layer plus the thickness of the beam by 50 mm. Attach vinyl siding to timber with galvanized screws.
IMPORTANT: we take into account seasonal temperature expansion - when fastening, we do not tighten the screws tightly, for additional elements we make a gap of 4-5 mm, in winter - 7-9 mm.
- The lower horizontal beam along the perimeter of the building is attached first, the upper cornice beam is the second, then the vertical ordinary ones starting from the corner of the house.
- The next stage is the installation of the starting J-shaped plank, which we fasten 4 cm above the intended level of the lining, with a gap of 6 mm from the edge of the corner bar and with the planks overlapping each other by 12 mm.
- Next - corner and docking profiles, which are cut from below and above to the middle of the first mounting hole in the bar. We measure and install the joint strips depending on the length of the main rails and the presence of openings in the wall.
- We install the second siding panel, fixing it in the recess of the starting bar, inserting it into the groove of the corner and docking profile.
- We repeat the operation for all facades.
- We mount the final profile - soffit.
In the video you will see how the overlapped siding is mounted on a wooden frame.
Properly installed siding will last long years decorating the house and delighting the owners. And the question: siding - a forced decision? - will not arise. Siding is a hit of facade design!
