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How to lay tiles in the bathroom. Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands: we deal with the nuances. Bathroom tile colors

First of all, remove the plumbing in the bathroom before you start laying ceramic tiles on the floor and walls. If your sewer is made of cast iron, be careful - cast iron is a relatively brittle metal. Don't hit it hard with a hammer. As a rule, from cast iron sewerage leave only a vertical common riser (if it cannot be replaced for subjective reasons). Sewerage connections made of cast iron are usually sealed with a winding with cement. This seal can be removed by reaming it with a 2mm drill bit. This will make it easier.

Installation of sewerage and water supply is beyond the scope of this article. Therefore, we limit ourselves to one rule. You need to know exactly where the plumbing will be located. If you decide to swap the toilet and sink, then you will have to redo the plumbing with a drain system. You can read more specifically about the installation of plumbing.

How to knock down old tiles with your own hands

To begin, we shoot old tile. To do this, you need a hammer and a chisel. We place the chisel at the smallest possible angle to the surface to be cleaned. Protect yourself by wearing goggles and gloves. If you have a hammer drill, great! It will greatly speed up the work. With light tapping, we determine how well it holds. In old houses, often a monolithic layer of plaster does not really adhere to the wall anymore. In this case, it must be removed. The completely old coating is removed even if it is made of lime mortar. The most difficult case is the old concrete wall in the bathroom, painted with enamel. Tile adhesive manufacturers guarantee the quality of the masonry when at least 80% of the tile surface adheres to the wall, so paint notches are indispensable. She needs to be knocked down. Usually, best result gives a normal hammer. But you can also try a puncher or a special nozzle on an angle grinder. On video examples ceramic tile already knocked down.

After you managed to knock down the old tile with your own hands, we proceed to the next important steps. Cleaned surface to improve adhesion (adhesion) . If the surface absorbs it (typical for old brickwork), then the primer is applied several times or a special “concrete contact” primer is used (one layer is enough). When priming the surface, you can use the principle “you can’t spoil porridge with oil”.

Surface plastering - preparation for laying tiles

The surface on which the tiles will be laid should be as flat and vertical (horizontal) as possible. This will reduce the consumption of expensive tile adhesive and improve the quality of the masonry. See the article how it is done, the technology for installing beacons and other nuances. The fact is that any, even expensive, imported ceramic tiles have deviations from the nominal parameters. At the domestic tiles of the first grade, these deviations are about a millimeter. It seems that this is not much, but a dozen tiles can give an error of a centimeter! So, one of these parameters is the deviation from the ideal plane. That's why Smooth surface will allow you to additionally control the quality of the masonry, making sure that the applied adhesive layer has the same thickness. In addition, with an excessively thick layer of glue, when installing the next ceramic tile, it may not be squeezed into the gap, but go under the previous one, squeezing it out. The verticality of the walls can be checked by repeatedly measuring them with a suspension. But you can apply another way. The bathroom wall is marked with vertical stripes. The extreme stripes are about 10 cm from the edge. The distance between adjacent strips is selected depending on the tool with which the plaster will be applied with one's own hands (usually a large spatula or semi-terre). It is better to use a rule no less than a meter long, and mark the wall so that the distance between adjacent three strips is 10–15 cm less than the length of the rule. In each strip, holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm are drilled through a distance of 0.5 m. Plastic dowels are inserted into them, and screws are screwed into the dowels. Sequentially screwing and unscrewing the screws, using the rack level, we place them in one “virtual” vertical plane. The final "virtual plane" will be the plaster surface. It is necessary that the plaster layer is not less than 0.5 cm.

Based on the exposed screws, guides are made. A flat rail is pressed against the screws (for example, a starting metal ceiling profile for Knauf drywall). Under the rail, the plaster mixture is tightly clogged. If the wall drop is large and the mixture does not hold, then thin strips can be used as reinforcement, fastening them together with the same mixture. A few hours later, after the initial hardening of the mixture, the river is removed, the resulting strip is cleaned - the guide is ready. (The second option is shown from the side in the photo, screw the profile of the required length to the wall, setting it to the level and start laying ceramic tiles on it). The video below shows an example of how else to lay flat. Ready-made guides are on sale - special T-shaped perforated beacons. For their installation, a strip of plaster mixture is applied to the wall, and then the beacon is pressed into it so that the mixture is squeezed out through the holes. The verticality of the guide is controlled by a level. It should be ensured that there are no gaps between the level and the lighthouse along the entire length. More.

When you do the laying of tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, then according to the technology it is necessary to use plaster mixes on cement base they are more durable. Gypsum plasters hygroscopic and cannot guarantee a durable installation and require.

The mixture is thrown onto the wall with a spatula or trowel with a sharp movement of the brush. If you use a homemade solution or inexpensive ready mix, then it is better to wet the surface on which the solution is applied with water. The applied mortar is leveled by a rule that slowly rises up the guides and at the same time reciprocates perpendicular to them. If there are pits in the finished surface, they are filled with mortar and the leveling is repeated. For large uneven walls, the plaster is applied in two to three layers. Each layer must dry completely and be primed. Finished surface can be sanded, if necessary, and primed.

It should be remembered that at least one corner must be right. Into him. The floor is leveled in the same way. The only difference is that it must first be waterproofed. Waterproofing should protect the entire floor and the bottom of the wall. For waterproofing, it is easiest to use a special ready-made mixture. Its use is simple and detailed in the instructions on the package.

Ceramic tile laying technology

First you need to mark the surface with your own hands. The video below shows an example of how to do this. It is desirable that the washbasin is located symmetrically with respect to the tile, does not cover most of the row of tiles, and the border does not pass where the faucet will be (this will not allow the faucet reflectors to be pressed tightly and evenly against the wall). Ceramic tiles should be purchased with a margin of about 10% of the wall and floor area. Part of the tile will go to waste after cutting and fighting. You can also put a pack of tiles in reserve, suddenly during operation it will be damaged - there will be something to replace immediately.

If the bottom row will consist of cut tiles, then laying should begin from the second row (the bottom row is laid after laying the floor). To do this, a flat rail is set around the perimeter of the room using a level. It will be a support for the tiles. It is better to start laying each row from the central tile. This will help to reduce the error that accumulates due to the difference in the size of the ceramic tiles. Tile adhesive is applied with a notched trowel. According to technology, the spatula is carried out at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. The density of the solution should resemble sour cream. A tile is applied and heated with a light tapping of a rubber mallet. Excess glue is removed, the ends of the tile are cleaned and the operation is repeated with the next tile.

The gap between the tiles is leveled with a plastic cross. The tile and the cross have a trapezoid shape in section, therefore, the deeper the cross is recessed, the wider the seam will be, so you need to put it so that the tile does not squint. After all, the difference in the size of the tiles must be leveled by changing the width of the tile joint. This can be done using special plastic wedges. The easiest way to achieve good quality- make sure that the top edge of the row lies on one straight line. Start the next row only after the previous one is completed. This will make sure that the seams between the rows will match (the top edge of the row of tiles lies in a horizontal plane). In addition, it will be possible to visually check the verticality of the masonry in the corners of the walls.

If required, then ceramic tiles are cut with their own hands using a tile cutter or a small "grinder" with a victorious disc. See the article correctly. When working with a grinder, be sure to use gloves, goggles and a respirator. With a grinder, you can also sharpen the tile to right size, make cutouts in it for plumbing hatches. If you need to make a hole, here are the ways. In order to hide the glaze chips at the cut point, you can use plastic tile corners. The size of the corners and their color are selected depending on the tile.

Laying tiles on the floor is best done and positioned so that the cut tiles are under the bathroom. Here you should not use a notched trowel, it is better to apply an even layer of glue with a regular one. When using a notched trowel, there is a high probability of formation of voids in the adhesive layer. This may lead to floor tiles crack during use.

After about a day, the seams between the ceramic tiles are filled with grout. It is applied with a rubber spatula. After 15-20 minutes after application, the seam is smoothed with a damp sponge. A day later, the remains of the grout are removed from the tile, first with a damp and then with a dry rag. Find out how much grout you need,. Now watch the video tutorials - examples of how specialists perform the same tiling steps. The technology is the same. Now you are ready to do your own bathroom renovation.

How to quickly tile in the bathroom video

Two more videos for an example of how tiles are laid in the bathroom. The principle remains the same, but the approach is slightly different.

In hardware stores you can find a large number of finishing materials, but tiles are still used for the bathroom, due to its advantages and properties.

Due to the popularity of the material, manufacturers produce a large assortment colors, textures and sizes. The choice depends on the taste of the consumer.

The downside to bathroom remodeling is high price works, so the article will describe in detail the process of how to lay tiles on the wall in the bathroom on your own in order to save money on paying for the masters.

Dark tones can visually reduce the bathroom

Before proceeding with the process of installing tiles, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with some tips that can help and facilitate the work:

1. Calculate the number of bathroom tiles. To do this, it is advisable to make a drawing of the room on a regular sheet where the walls will be drawn. After that, they are transferred to the wall exact dimensions tiles, and then the piece quantity for the walls is considered.
2. When buying a tile, you need to immediately take care of the adhesive composition. Tile adhesive should be purchased immediately for the entire volume of purchased tiles. The universal mixture is CM11. Price and quality match.
3. When choosing a tile, it is better to spend a little time in the store inspecting each instance than to suffer during installation later. Each tile must be free of defects and cracks.
4. For small rooms, it is better to lay tiles on the walls. light color, which will visually increase the space. Dark tones visually reduce the room, and if they are used, it is better to lay them on the floor or as inserts on the wall.

Preparatory work

The bathroom, before laying tiles, requires especially careful preparation, because 80% of success will depend on this process and the evenness of the walls. Before you put the tiles on the wall in the bathroom with your own hands, you must:

1. Remove all furniture from the room.
2. Shut off the water.
3. Dismantle all plumbing and, if it is to be used in the future, then the removal must be carried out carefully so as not to damage it.
4. Carry out a withdrawal old tiles, a puncher is used for quick removal, it must be switched to impact mode and brought under the bottom of the tile. Wear goggles, gloves and a respirator to protect yourself from debris and dust. The very first tile is removed manually using a chisel for convenience.
5. Check the evenness of the wall with a plumb and level. A square is used for corners, all corners must be 90 degrees. If the walls are even, then you don’t have to level them, but this rarely happens.
6. Before leveling, cover the wall with soil and, when the soil dries, install beacons. To do this, glue is applied in certain places, to which a beacon is applied and set according to the level. Similarly, beacons are placed over the entire plane, the vertical can be controlled by the rule.
7. The gaps between the wall and the lighthouses should be filled with mortar, the main thing is not to accidentally move the guides, and also to prevent sagging. When the glue hardens, you can continue to work.
8. The walls are aligned with the usual cement mortar, but to increase strength, one part of cement is changed to one part of tile adhesive. With a trowel, the finished mixture is thrown onto the wall, it is better to start from above and level the surface downwards. After filling a space of 1 meter with a solution, you need to attach the rule to the beacons and remove the excess. The rest is sent to a container with a common mixture and work continues until all the space between the beacons is filled.
9. In case of irregularities with a grater, you can smooth the wall, but only when the mortar dries. A little solution is placed on the unevenness and the defect is removed in a circular motion.

This completes the preparation of the walls, after the mixture has completely dried, it will be possible to start laying tiles on the walls in the bathroom.

After the preparatory work on the walls, it is better not to apply anything for a couple of weeks. During this time, the solution will be able to dry completely.

Types of tiling

Many people are accustomed to laying tiles in even rows.

But there are other methods of tiling walls that can give a bathroom an unusual visual impact and personality.

All methods and description are presented in the table:

№	Laying method	Description of the method
1	Straight	Most easy way, which is suitable in case of independent work without experience. The first tile is laid on the longest wall, and the remaining parts are laid along vertical and horizontal lines. There is a minimum of waste in the work, due to which the method is economical.
2	Diagonal	The method is more complicated than the straight one, but the diagonal masonry will hide the flaws in the bathroom, as well as add volume to the room.
3	Chess	A combination method is used different colors. The main thing in this method is to observe the evenness of the colors. Selection is recommended so that the last row does not have to be cut. To avoid undercutting, you can change the size of the seams between tiles.
4	Offset laying	Unusual complex, but spectacular way. Not every type of tile is suitable for such installation, and it is better to entrust the work to an experienced specialist. Independent work highly not recommended.
5	Mosaic	The style can be used if the apartment already has mosaics in other rooms. The method is the most difficult of all, so only a good tiler can carry out the work.

The choice of method depends not only on experience, but also on the size of the room. Below will be described standard way how to properly lay tiles using the direct method. After all, this is the easiest way and it can be done without skills in work.

When buying tiles for walls, you should take 5-10% more in case of insurance against splits, cracks and improper cutting.

Installation instructions

Install trimmed elements at the bottom

At the very beginning, the wall is measured and divided by the height of the tile. If the total has an equal number, then the tile will not need to be cut, but this often happens very rarely. In this case, an integer will mean the required number of rows. It is worth considering the seams between the tiles, often they do not exceed 5 mm.

To make the walls beautiful, it is better to install the trimmed elements at the bottom, this reduces their visibility. But another problem arises, the first row cannot be applied to the wall from above, so a flat wooden plank is used, which is installed along a horizontal line.

For its installation, you need to measure the height of the future cut parts, the measurement is taken from the floor and at this level the bar is attached to the wall. Detailed description See this video for the process:

Apply adhesive to an area larger than the size of the tile

The horizontal plane is leveled with a level, only then you can start installing the tiles on the wall in the bathroom:

1. Pour water into the bucket and pour dry tile adhesive in small parts, then stir with a mixer or drill attachment. The proportions are indicated on the glue packaging. The consistency of the solution should be like thick sour cream, so that when applied to the tile, it does not drain, but does not stretch over the surface.
2. With a notched trowel, glue is applied to the tile, and the tile is gently pressed against the wall so that the solution is evenly distributed. The bottom of the tile should be on wooden lath, and the side part can be checked with a level.
3. The next tile is glued by analogy. To make the seams the same, you should use crosses that are designed for tiles. Seams are needed so that the tile does not crack from thermal expansion.
4. When one row is laid, on both sides you will need to put the slats vertically. The size of the planks should be the same as the height of the tiles.
5. Next, the thread is stretched horizontally, which will serve as a guide for another row. This eliminates the need to check every tile laid with a spirit level, which saves time.
6. In the case when the tiles do not become solid pieces across the entire width of the wall, then the cut pieces are best placed in the corners in order to maintain visual beauty. For tips from the master on laying tiles, see this video:

A rail nailed under the first row will help track the horizontal level.

This instruction will help to do the work with your own hands and lay the tiles on the walls throughout the bath. Each row is installed by analogy with the instructions given.

Cutting tiles is carried out with a tile cutter, and for small cuts or grooves, you can use a grinder.

The work will be of high quality if you follow the level of the vertical and horizontal. Even a slight distortion will spoil the beauty of the most expensive tile.

At the end, the tile must be cleaned of adhesive residue and the room closed for several days in order to adhesive composition gripped securely and dried out. After a few days, grouting is carried out using expensive and high-quality mixtures. During grouting, excess should be removed immediately, especially if there is a textured pattern.

Having studied the features of laying tiles in the bathroom, its advantages, calculation methods and installation tips, you can safely begin work. All the described recommendations and instructions allow you to ensure that the tiles on the walls in the bathroom will serve long years and enjoy your beauty.

Probably, there is no such house or apartment where, as finishing material ceramic tiles would not be present. Tiles are the most common, classic way to finish the floor and walls in the bathroom. Tiled is practical, durable in operation and provides reliable protection surfaces from moisture. That is why this material has gained wide popularity.

Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is not an easy task, but doable. All that is needed is to take your time and strictly follow the algorithm of actions. But first you need to choose the right material.

Before going to the store or construction market, it is necessary to correctly measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach wall, as well as the floor. Based on this, the required amount of material is determined. Be sure to take into account that during delivery or installation, some part of the tile may break or be cut incorrectly. Therefore, buy material with a margin of 10-15%.

The number of tiles is considered square meters, decorative elements - linear.

The color of the tile, its size, shape and pattern is a question that everyone decides for himself, and here you should not trust the sellers too much, because you will lay the tile in your house. There are three parameters that should not be neglected when making a choice:

1. Moisture resistant. According to this indicator, tiles can be of four classes (I, II, III, IV). For the bathroom, you should choose tiles Ia, IIa, Ib, IIb. The letters indicate the method of production of tiles: a - extrusion, b - pressing.
2. Wear resistance. There are five strength classes. Since the load on the walls in the bathroom is small, class 1 or 2 is quite suitable. Class 5 tile is the most durable, it is recommended to lay it on the floor.
3. Tile size.

In addition to the tile itself, you will need:

• tile adhesive;
• primer;
• crosses for seams;
• grout;
• waterproofing;
• wooden or metal slats.

Preparing for styling

First and main rule finishing works- preparation of the base in the room. The surface on which ceramic tiles are to be laid must be flat.

1. Remove the old coating with a hammer, small crowbar or chisel.
2. Check the walls for perpendicularity with a plumb line with a weight.
3. If necessary, level the walls with plaster or moisture-resistant drywall.
4. Prime the surface with a high humidity primer.

The photo shows the main stages of preparation before laying wall tiles: dismantling the old cladding and leveling the walls

As for the floor, its surface is leveled with water or laser level. Check the quality first. If there are cracks, they should be repaired. If pits, slope or other significant defects are found, it is recommended to make a new cement-sand screed and lay a preliminary layer.

Tile installation

The tile is fixed with glue. Depending on the type of tile and the type of substrate, a flexible, standard or special adhesive mix is ​​used.

The powder composition is diluted with water according to the instructions. As a result, the adhesive mass should not be too liquid or, conversely, thick. The adhesive is applied to the surface with a notched trowel.

There are two options for laying ceramic tiles in the bathroom:

• start from the floor;
• start with the walls.

IN last case be sure to leave a gap for floor tiles.

Stages of laying tiles in the bathroom

If the bath is close to the wall, then the laying starts from the place above the edge of the bath. To lay out the tiles evenly and correctly, first on one wall, and then a horizontal control line is drawn around the entire perimeter. Then rails are installed on it and screwed to the wall. They will not let the tiles slide. If the ceramic coating is also laid behind the bathtub, then the installation starts from the second row from the floor, while skipping the first one.

The number of rows is calculated in advance, while the width of the seams is necessarily taken into account.

Start laying tiles from the wall opposite the front door.

The figure shows the laying scheme

Before proceeding with the installation of tiles, it is laid out along the wall. If the last tile has to be cut, the wall is divided in half and the first row is placed from central line. In this case, the finish will look symmetrical.

Having reached the corners, the tile is cut with a tile cutter. Then the entire trimming to the ceiling is laid on both sides of the wall. To properly observe the seams, crosses are inserted between adjacent tiles.

The process is carried out similarly on all walls. The bottom row is laid last.

Tips for laying tiles on the floor

To beautifully lay tiles on the floor, start in the center of the room. At the same time, thin edges should not fit along the walls, so calculate everything in advance.

In the process of laying tiles on the floor, crosses are used bigger size than for walls.

Grouting

The final step on the way to your dream bathroom is the grouting and cleaning. After the tiles on the walls and floor are completely dry, you should pull out the crosses and do the seams. For their processing, grout is used. This mixture not only performs decorative function, but also protects the tile from moisture. The solution is prepared in small portions, as needed.

If the seams are wide, then grout is used, which contains sand. Latex can also be added to the mixture for elasticity.

If latex is added to the putty, the dry powder will not be diluted with water.

The grout is applied with a rubber spatula, brush or cloth and spread evenly with a rubber trowel. This tool should be held at an angle and pulled diagonally so that the putty fills the joints completely. The drying time of the mixture is several minutes.

When the stitching is finished, proceed to cleaning the surface. This will require a foam sponge and warm water. Do not wash the tiles parallel to the seams, otherwise the grout may wear off. After cleaning, the surface can be wiped with microfiber.

To protect the joints from moisture, it is necessary to treat them with a sealant. This is done, as a rule, 21 days after the installation of the tile.

That's all for today. Leave your opinion about the article in the comments and share your experience and secrets of installing tiles in the bathroom.

In order for the cladding to look flawless, not cracked or collapsed in the first year after the repair, you need to properly prepare the base.

Material calculation

To purchase right amount elements, you can come to the store, name the area of ​​​​the bathroom and the seller will tell you how much to buy. But it would be better to independently calculate the materials, when calculating it is worth considering some more points:

• technique and installation option: type of seam and its width;
• possible battle that occurs when curly cutting or drilling holes
• fugue color;
• calculate the total amount and add 15% to it for losses;
• on four squares of the surface, on average, a bag is consumed adhesive mixture and 1 kg of grout.

The subtleties of choosing a tile

The surface is prepared, the estimate is ready. Now you can go to the store for ceramics.

Here are some tips for choosing quality tiles.

1. On the wrapper of tiled products there is a batch number mark. When buying goods from several batches, you can get a discrepancy in the tone of ceramics.
2. Inspect the tile: no chips, sags or bubbles are allowed.
3. All purchased ceramics are supposed to be of the same size, otherwise it will not be possible to lay out even seams.
4. Take two tiles and stack internal parties. The geometry of the tiles of the first grade should match perfectly. Usually such products are transferred with waxed paper or wax is applied to protect them from scratches during transportation.
5. Lay the tiles face down. There should be no gap between the products. Permissible clearance for grades 2 and 3 is not more than 1 mm. More than marriage.

Advice. Do not buy a tile with traces of a marker on it - this is how defects are marked in production.

Horizontal marking

If you first arranged a high-quality finishing floor, then the tiles of the first horizontal row can be tied to flooring. This perfect case. The tile is placed directly on the floor with a certain gap. But this option is often not feasible for a number of reasons:

• the floor is not shifted, but only the walls are lined. In addition, the floor is rarely made strictly horizontal;
• the floor has communications that need to go around.

First, calculate the number of tiles that will be included in the vertical row. Often it is necessary to raise or vice versa, lower the line of the support row so that the whole ceramic fits under the ceiling with a small gap (about 5 mm). Otherwise, you may encounter a situation where a distance of 2 cm remains under the ceiling, where you need to squeeze a strip of cut tiles. This is not easy to do and general form it won't be cool.

The fitting starts from the ceiling, horizontal elements are marked, taking into account the seams. Going down, mark the level of the second row. The rest of the distance will remain for fitting the tiles to size. So all the cut tiles will be near the floor and will not spoil the look of the bathroom.

At the level of the second row, make a mark on each wall using a level. Connect together. Now a profile is mounted on the drawn line, which will support the laid out row.

Advice. As a support bar, it is better to use a profile for assembly drywall constructions. It is perfectly flat and simply mounted to the wall, which cannot be said about a wooden rail.

Vertical layout

Rows perpendicular to the floor are tried on individually for each wall. The number of tiles included in the horizontal row along with the seams is calculated. In most cases, it turns out that the tile needs to be cut. The thin stripe in the corner does not look very nice, but you can get around this by using a little trick:

• move the tiles in a row in such a way that tiles of the same width are joined in the corners. The tile will be located symmetrically, the wall will look harmonious. decorative elements, if they are supposed to be used, they will also look good;
• Another way is to place the vertical cut row in the least conspicuous place: in the corner that will be covered by the shower.

Having finished with the calculation and fitting, mark the level of vertical lines in the corners where the uncut row is located. The result is a drawn rectangle, which will be a guide. So you do not deviate when laying ceramics from the vertical and horizontal axes.

Ceramic laying technology

Having prepared the markup, you can close the tile adhesive and proceed to facing works. The glue is applied with a trowel and leveled with a notched trowel to the height of the “tooth”. Irregularities are corrected rubber mallet. The horizontal will provide a nailed profile, and the vertical is checked by the level during the laying process. In general, the sequence of work is as follows:

• a layer of glue is applied to the wall and tile. Ceramics leans first on the profile, and then pressed against the wall. You don't need to press hard. With light movements, slightly turn the tile so that it firmly grips the wall. Please note that you should immediately try to lay the element correctly, as it will be too problematic to take away. You can slightly correct the position by shifting to the side and giving it with a rubber mallet. You can not press the tile with such an effort that the solution protrudes, the gaps between the elements should be as clean as possible. After the lining has dried, the seams are filled with grout;

• post the first horizontal stripe;
• crosses are inserted between the tiles so that the seam is the same width;
• after laying the first few tiles, check the level with a level: there should be no gaps between the tool and the tile. We correct with a hammer;
• put all the tiles, except for those that require trimming, they are placed in the very last turn;
• when the laying of the first row is over, check the horizontal and vertical, as well as the plane of the masonry;
• with a tile cutter or a grinder, strips are cut off, which are laid in the corners;
• experienced hand, glue on the wall can be applied immediately for several tiles, which are immediately laid, and then crosses are inserted between them. The level is adjusted to the general range;
• if you decide to take a break, then first remove the mortar along the edges of the ceramics and in the areas that are left under the cut ceramics, otherwise you will have to beat it off later, and this may affect the laid ceramics, affecting the adhesion strength to the wall;
• after the lining has completely dried and all the crosses have been removed, they begin to apply the grout. When using silicone or epoxy fugue, the edges of the ceramics are pasted over with masking tape. Cement does not require such scrupulousness. With a rubber spatula, the grout is applied to the seams, slightly pressing in, without creating bubbles or voids. We overwrite all vertical, and only then horizontal seams. When the mixture sets slightly, you need to smooth the seam with a joint, deepening it a little. Excess material is removed with a damp sponge.

Laying tiles is not a quick and rather painstaking process, it requires attention and accuracy. Self-execution will allow not only to make high-quality cladding, save money on the work of the tiler, but most importantly - to enjoy the work done.

Wall tiling: video

Bathroom tile (photo can be seen in the article) is the most common type of finish. This is due to the presence of certain qualities that correspond to the specific climate of this room. For several decades, ceramic tiles have occupied a leading position in the ranking of building materials.

Repair is a pleasant, but rather laborious work. It is also worth noting that a lot of hard-earned money is spent during this period of time. However, there is one way to save them. You ask: "How to do it?" Very simple - construction works perform on your own. From the first time, of course, it will not work out like the professionals, but it will be necessary to study and train.

So, the first lesson will be devoted to the topic: "Do-it-yourself tiles in the bathroom." It should be noted right away that laying tiles is not an easy task, but subject to the rules, this task is quite feasible.

Bathroom tile options: installation methods

There are several basic ways to lay tiles. As a rule, some of them are suitable only for square models, others for rectangular ones, but there are methods that can be used for any kind. Let's consider them in more detail.

1. Direct tiling. This option is called the classic. Its feature is parallel seams in relation to walls, a floor and a ceiling. Each tile must be placed strictly one above the other.
2. Diagonal laying is used for square tiles. This method is quite effective. When laying the tiles, they are positioned in such a way that the seams run at a certain angle from the perpendicular wall.
3. Modular layout is to combine tiles different sizes and forms.
4. Herringbone pattern. Tiles are laid out in the likeness of parquet, each of them is located at an angle to each other.
5. Offset layout. The peculiarity of this method is that the tile in the bathroom (the photo shows a variety of options) resembles brickwork, that is, in each subsequent row, the seam is shifted to the middle of the tile.
6. Combined is a method that combines several types of styling at once.

Preparing for tiling

First of all, you need to prepare the tools:

• tile cutter;
• pencil;
• plumb;
• square;
• level;
• roulette;
• whetstone for sharpening;
• ruler;
• spatulas: one with cloves, the other with rubber.

Material:

• tile;
• mounting crosses;
• adhesive mixture;
• grout for seams.

Preparatory work with the surface

In order for the tile in the bathroom to lay flat and hold firmly, you need to worry about the base. To do this, you will need to preparatory work. Step by step description:

1. Dismantling of the old coating.
2. Check surface quality.
3. Remove dust from the wall, repair cracks and crevices.
4. Plaster the surface.
5. After drying (about 14 days) primed. Important: cement strainer dries for about 1 month.
6. On the ground, be sure to apply waterproofing in two layers. This will serve as a quality protection against the formation of fungus and mold.

Getting Started with Markup

In order for the tiles in the bathroom to be symmetrical on all sides, it is necessary to mark the wall. The first step is to measure zero level. To do this, you need to measure a point on one of the corners. After that, transfer it to the rest using the level. If the dots are ready, then a line is beaten off with a cord dipped in blue or graphite. It must match in all four corners, that is, be continuous.

The next stage is the counting of whole rows, both vertically and horizontally. Thanks to this, it is possible to distribute the tiles in such a way that the trimmed elements are in inconspicuous places. Most often in the corners they try to make a symmetrical layout.

Tile cutter: rules of work

Even the most experienced craftsmen they will not be able to lay tiles in the bathroom so that there is no trimming. Therefore, it is very important to learn how to use a tile cutter. A few tips:

• It is necessary to soak the tiles for at least 40 minutes.
• It is necessary to draw a line with a marker, so that it is clearly visible.
• Pruning occurs only on a hard surface.
• To get a perfectly even cut, you need to attach a metal ruler.
• Movement with a tile cutter can be done only once, while the direction should be from the far edge towards you.
• The tile is placed on a plank or on the edge of a table so that the cut line and edges match.
• Now it is necessary to carefully beat off the unnecessary part, for this one side of the tile is fixed, and the other is pressed by hand.
• The cut line is processed with a special bar in order to grind off sharp elements.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom: a description of the work

1. The tile is unpacked and viewed for defects.
2. Soak in water for 1 hour.
3. During this time, it is necessary to prepare the adhesive mixture.
4. Having endured the specified time, you can start laying the tile.
5. The tile adhesive is applied with a notched trowel.
6. It is necessary to withstand about 5-7 minutes in order for the glue to stick a little.
7. After that, the tile is applied to the wall and the evenness of the surface is controlled using a level.
8. It is very important when laying the tiles to lightly press against the wall so that the adhesive is slightly pressed. Such work is carried out carefully, otherwise the tile may crack.
9. If any corner protrudes, then you can use a rubber mallet.
10. The last stage is the installation of plastic crosses. Thanks to them, you can achieve the most uniform seams.

Floor tiles

The installation technology is practically no different from the above. It is very important to place solid tiles in a conspicuous place, and run trimming in those places where it will be installed washing machine, bedside table or other pieces of furniture.

It is not recommended to walk until the floor surface is completely dry, as this can lead to a change in the plane. If there is an urgent need to move around the room, then you can use a wide and long board.

Grouting - the final stage of work

In order for the tile in the bathroom to acquire a complete look, it is necessary to properly process the seams. For this, a special mixture is sold, which is diluted with water. Manufacturers have developed various brands, their feature is color. Thanks to this variety, you can easily choose the desired shade.

Grout is applied with rubber spatula. The remains of the solution must be removed with a sponge moistened with water. There is one feature here: the direction of movement during application and flushing should be the same. At the very end, it is recommended to polish the surface with a soft cloth.

After reviewing the presented material, you can safely try to lay the tiles yourself.