How to install a plastic window in a wooden house yourself. How to install plastic windows in a wooden house Fixing plastic windows in the opening of a wooden house
Plastic windows are used everywhere. They are crowding out wooden structures due to a number of advantages, the main of which are reliable thermal insulation and the absence of wind blowing. Setting the window to wooden house has the feature that the structure is not rigid. Therefore, a special frame fastening is made for it, protecting it from loads from the walls.
How to install a plastic window in a wooden house? To do this, you need to measure the opening, dismantle old design, make and assemble new box if the existing one doesn't fit. After that, you should insert new frames with double-glazed windows and a window sill, and then install slopes on plastic windows.
Determining the size of the opening
To take measurements, the platbands are first removed. plastic frame should fit into the opening inside the box. Between them, a gap of 2 cm should be left around the entire perimeter, so that in the future it can be filled with mounting foam. In addition, an 8 cm opening should be left above the box to the top log, which is necessary for wall shrinkage.
Tools and materials
Slope installation
When we install a plastic window ourselves, there is nothing easier to finish the slopes wooden house. To do this, you can use lining or block house, which are well suited to the rest of the room. They are nailed across to the pigtail, and the corners are sealed with a corner. From the side of the frame, guides are installed for them. Window openings can be trimmed wood paneling that are glued to mounting foam.
To prevent the foam from pushing out the slope, it is attached to the wall with mounting tape (masking tape). After gluing, the mount is removed, the protrusions are framed with a profile. Minor assembly defects are eliminated with silicone sealant.
ebb mount
The outer trough made of tin is installed with a slope to remove precipitation. Slopes are made and installed under it. The length of the ebb is selected with a margin of 3 cm on each side. When installed, the edges are bent up. It is advisable to foam the ebb from below so that it does not rattle from wind and rain. You can also put an elastic substrate under it.
Conclusion
Following all the rules and tips on how to install a plastic window in a wooden house, you can long years create comfortable conditions in it.
The heat-shielding properties of a double-glazed window are selected according to the table of coefficients of the reduced heat transfer resistance.
Before installing a plastic window, it should be ensured that it is independent of the displacement of the walls when they dry out. For this, a pigtail is used with the possibility of slipping relative to the logs.
Windows made of durable and durable plastic, today it can be found not only in stone, but also in wooden buildings.
However, their installation in a wooden wall differs significantly from installation in stone structures. The reason for this is the significant shrinkage of the wood during the drying period.
In raw material, it can reach 6-8% (1.2-1.6 cm per 1 meter of log height).
Drying wood turns into a powerful press that easily deforms window block. The sashes do not open after such an impact, and the frame is strongly warped.
It turns out that a quality installation plastic windows in a wooden house is not possible - you ask? No, it is quite real, but only if special technology. We will consider it in our article.
How to put a plastic window in a wooden wall?
In order to eliminate the pressure of the wall on the window block, the craftsmen came up with special “sleds”, popularly called pigtails or casings. The idea of this technology is very simple: a vertical ledge-comb is made with a chainsaw on the end part of the logs of the window opening.
A window carriage is put on it - wooden beam with a vertical groove cut into it. There is no rigid connection with screws or nails between the opening and the carriage. As a result, due to the sliding tongue-and-groove connection, we get a frame that moves freely along with the drying wall.
Thanks to this original solution the plastic window installed in the casing is not affected destructive forces log deformation.
The pigtail performs several important functions in a wooden wall:
- does not allow the logs to move from the vertical;
- does not interfere with the vertical shrinkage of the log house;
- reinforces the wall in the area of the window opening.
And now let's take a closer look at how to install plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands using a casing.
Features of installing plastic windows in wooden walls
Cutting the ridge at the ends of the window opening must be taken very responsibly by marking it with a level. Any deviation from the vertical and the inaccuracies in the tongue-and-groove joint will adversely affect the operation of the pigtail, violating its free movement along the wall.
Having made ridge cutouts, you can begin to manufacture window carriages. These are wooden planed bars with a section of 150x100 mm. At their ends, it is necessary to make cutouts 5x5 cm in size for inserting horizontal jumpers (board 150x50 mm with two spikes at the ends).
When making a casing box, keep in mind that its assembled height should be 7-8 cm less than the height of the window opening. If you make a pigtail without such a gap, then the upper rims will press on the box when the wall shrinks, deforming it.
In order to correctly insert a plastic window in a wooden house, you must adhere to the established experienced craftsmen sequence of operations.
First you need to overlay the crests of the window opening with tow and secure it with a stapler or small nails. This is necessary to insulate the joint and eliminate squeaks. After that, the lower jumper of the pigtail is laid in the window opening. Then gun carriages (side bars of the casing) are stuffed onto the ridges. A second jumper is inserted into the upper cutout of the gun carriage and lowered into horizontal position. Having assembled the box, it must be carefully fastened with self-tapping screws so that they do not go into the ridges of the log house. Otherwise, the casing will not "work" because the screws will prevent it from sliding along the wall.
All gaps left in window opening after installing the pigtails, tightly clog with tow. Further, according to the standard technology, a plastic window is installed with all related operations to ensure the protection of the junction area with the casing from moisture, heat loss and noise penetration.
The gap between the pigtail and the wall of the log house is filled with thin boards wrapped in rolled tow. As the walls shrink, they are knocked out one by one. To do this, the upper casing (it is attached only to the pigtail) is removed and, having removed the unnecessary “compensation” board, put it back in place.
The finishing of a plastic window in a wooden house is no different from the decorative sheathing of a conventional frame. It is highly desirable to order not standard white plastic windows, but covered with a special film that imitates the color and texture of natural wood. They will naturally look against the background of a chopped wall. Having completed the insulation and sealing of the joints, the window block with a pigtail from the inside and outside is sheathed with a wooden casing.
So far, we have talked about the installation of plastic window blocks in new log cabins.. But is such technology needed, if we are talking about the old wooden house?
Experienced craftsmen say that a pigtail is necessary here. The fact is that any log house, even after 5 years of shrinkage and shrinkage, does not stop changing its dimensions. Wood is a living porous material. Therefore, when it is raining outside, the log and timber swell. During the hot summer, the reverse process takes place and even an old hundred-year-old log house loses a few centimeters from its former “wet” height.
It should be noted that the old window frame absolutely unsuitable for the role of a pigtail, since it cannot slide along the surface of the wall, compensating for its shrinkage.
Therefore, the owner has two options:
- install plastic windows in a wooden house, reducing the size of existing openings by the width of the casing + gap for sealant;
- keep the same window area, but increase the openings for mounting the pigtails by cutting through the walls.
Concluding our review, let's say that installing a plastic window into a wooden wall is not a very complicated process. With a careful and attentive attitude to the matter, it can be done qualitatively on your own, without involving "expensive" masters from the side.
Addendum to the article
We sometimes receive additional questions that cannot always be answered within the comments. We will answer such questions further and give options for solving a specific problem.
Good afternoon
With the installation of a plastic window in a log house, it is clear, but how is a plastic window installed in a house on a pediment, in which an opening for a window is formed from a board 80x100mm?
This installation option is easy. Just before installation, it is advisable to attach an antiseptic rail 20x20 mm along the contour of your box (it will act as a quarter, protecting the polyurethane foam sealant from solar radiation). If you have already made a quarter in the board, then you don’t have to put a rail.
We put the plastic window on the gaskets (to create a gap into which the foam will be blown). After that, carefully go through the entire circuit with sealant. You can additionally fix the window in the opening using metal mounting plates. However, one foam will hold the window securely.
Did not retreat from the outer edge of the window block, and the house the old window block stands on a level and somewhere in some places a 50 mm board goes out into the street, and now it is cold. What can be done?
The best option is to remove the window block and install it in the quarter-indented opening, as shown in the previous diagram.
A valid option is to make a thick board around the window block outside the wall so that quarters are obtained that cover the junction of the window block with the wall from blowing. Seal all leaks and gaps with foam or tow.
When building a wooden house, the question often arises which windows to install, wooden or plastic. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Plastic structures are distinguished by lower cost and longer service life. They require minimal maintenance during operation. Therefore, most often people choose this particular material. But what are the features of the installation of plastic window structures in wooden walls? Are there fundamental differences between installing windows in a new and old house? It is essential to know the answers to these questions. So, we install plastic windows in a wooden house with our own hands.
Features of window structures made of PVC
Plastic windows are a construction of a PVC frame with metal profile inside and double-glazed windows. They are double and triple. Air is pumped out between the panes of double-glazed windows. The entire structure assembled in finished window, completely sealed and provides all the necessary consumer properties. Features of materials, technology for the production of profiles and double-glazed windows, as well as their assembly into a single whole made it possible to endow plastic windows with important advantages:
- They perfectly protect from the cold, thanks to the double-glazed windows with vacuum and the design plastic profile.
- They have increased soundproofing qualities for the same reasons.
- Their vents are so perfectly fitted that they exclude any distortions when correct adjustment and installation.
- The service life of such windows exceeds 50 years.
- They require no maintenance other than cleaning and lubricating the hinges.
- They have an aesthetic appearance and a wide choice of models and coloring of a profile.
- The cost of plastic windows is much lower than those of wooden ones in terms of properties and quality.
An important point is that the installation of plastic windows is quite possible and independently, subject to certain rules. If for brick and concrete walls it does not present any difficulty, then for installation plastic structures in wooden houses it is necessary to take into account a number of circumstances, which will be discussed later.
Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house to replace the old ones
Due to their excellent consumer qualities, affordable cost and the possibility of acquiring by installments and credit, plastic windows gradually filled a huge number of window openings even in old wooden houses. Today, an unimaginable number of companies are engaged in the installation of plastic structures on a professional basis. Often the cost of installing one window is up to 20% of its cost. At the same time, anyone who knows how to handle the tool is able to independently change the old windows in their house for new ones made of PVC.
To do this, you need some tools and materials:
- Electric drill or puncher with a set of drills.
- Gasoline or electric saw, nail puller or crowbar. For dismantling old jambs and frames.
- Manual a circular saw. For making grooves on the pigtail.
- Building level. Essential for all work. Without it, you should not even start replacing windows.
- Autonomous screwdriver.
- Plastic chisel. Needed in order to select a groove in the risers of the pigtails.
- Roulette.
- A mallet made of rubber or wood.
- Pliers.
- Anchor plates and bolts, self-tapping screws.
- Hexagon to fit window adjusting screws.
- Construction mounting foam. One window can take from 1 to 3 cylinders, depending on the size of the gaps.
- Gloves.
- Wooden expansion wedges.
- Water in the sprayer.
It is necessary to install windows with at least two people, since it is impossible for one person to lift and level a massive window. One person should support the frame, and the second should do all the manipulations to align it and fix it in the slopes.
First, dismantling work is carried out. If the old window blocks can still be used somewhere, and you want to keep them intact, then you will have to tinker, taking everything apart carefully. To do this, first take out the frames, and then remove the window sill and the block itself, trying not to damage it. Most often, in old wooden houses, only glazed frames can be used, and the blocks have already become unusable. In this case, they simply saw them in the middle and tear them out of the walls with a nail puller. The vacated opening is cleaned of debris and rot. If the log or beam under the window is rotten, and this is most likely the case, then they are also sawn out and replaced with new ones. The joints are foamed with mounting foam.
When the openings are completely cleaned, you can start finishing them before inserting plastic windows. There are two options here: the block is inserted directly into the opening, which is wrong, or it is first framed around the perimeter with a special pigtail. In the first case, it will only be necessary to cut off a spike in the walls with a chainsaw, on which the old wooden window block was held. In the second case, you need to make a new pigtail. You can’t leave old jambs, even if they are in excellent condition.
It should be noted that if the house is not very old, then making a pigtail is mandatory. After all, even for 5 - 6 years wooden frame tends to shrink, which can deform plastic blocks. The box is made in the following way. In a beam of 100x150 mm, a longitudinal groove is selected, having a width equal to the width of the ridge remaining on the walls. To do this, you need a circular saw, an ax and a chisel with a hammer. Longitudinal cuts are made with a saw, and then the groove is finalized with an ax and a chisel. With this groove, the resulting riser is installed vertically on the crest of the wall. There are two such risers for each window. At the bottom of each jamb, a spike 50x50x25 mm is selected. It is needed for attaching the lower bar, in which spikes are also made on both sides.
The risers should not reach 100 mm to the upper log of the opening. This will allow you to freely insert the top bar. It is necessary that it does not reach 45 mm to the log. Between themselves, all the bars of the pigtails are fastened with dowels, and the joints are insulated with jute tape.
Installing a plastic window block requires special care and precision. If you neglect the rules, then the window will not only open and close poorly, but it may also leak or freeze in winter. The simplest way- this is to drill a frame and screw it onto the screws directly to the walls. However, this is the worst and wrong option, which violates thermal insulation and tightness. plastic block. The technology for installing plastic windows in wooden walls involves the use of pigtails.
For correct installation PVC window blocks require special fasteners, a place for which is available at the ends of any frame. They look like thin metal plates with perforations. The frames have technical skids along the entire edge of the profile. They are made in the form of a gutter with a hook. To facilitate the design of the window, you can remove the doors and vents by removing the pins from the hinges. Sometimes this may not be enough, for example, when installing windows on high altitude. In this case, all double-glazed windows can be removed so that only the frame remains. This will require a special device for pulling out plastic glazing beads. Only this must be done carefully so as not to damage the double-glazed windows and not violate the tightness of the profile.
The frame is installed using the building level. Alignment is done both vertically and horizontally. The frame is fixed first with wooden wedges-spacers. Before that, two identical chips 10 mm thick must be placed under the frame. This is enough to be able to foam the gap with mounting foam. This is required by the technology of installing plastic windows. The aligned frame is fixed with the help of fasteners on the pigtail in several places.
After that, the window is completely assembled and the sashes are hung. Attention! Installation of double-glazed windows must be done correctly. Inside the frame there are deformation pads made of soft plastic. They must be located on all sides of the double-glazed window so that it does not directly come into contact with the profile anywhere. This is necessary so that as a result of accidental deformation, the glass does not crack. Since the glazing beads have corner cuts along the edges, it is not so easy to insert them into place. To install the glazing bead, one of its edges is inserted under the previous bead perpendicular to it. Then bend in the middle and gently insert under the second. Only after that they press it into place.
Correctly installed glazing beads should not have any gaps with the frame. When installing them, you need to try not to damage the sealing gum, otherwise water will accumulate in the frame. After installing double-glazed windows around the perimeter, foaming is carried out, not forgetting to remove chips and spacers after the foam dries. The resulting holes are foamed. Attention! If the frame is foamed without completely assembling it and without hanging the sashes, then when it hardens, the foam deforms it so that it will be impossible to insert and close anything.
Of course, self-installation of plastic windows in a wooden house has some difficulties, but if you do everything according to the instructions, following all the recommendations, then everything will work out for you, and the plastic windows installed by your hands will please you for a long time without causing any problems.
Now the matter remains small: to install a window sill, ebb and veneer the slopes, both inside and outside. To install the window sill, it is cut so that it does not go beyond the opening. Install it directly under the frame in level. To fix the window sill, it is wedged with wooden wedges between the walls. Bars are placed under the bottom so that it takes a horizontal position. After that, the entire space between the window sill and the slope is foamed. The ebb is also installed horizontally and the bent part is screwed onto the screws to the frame. There are a large number of ways to finish slopes, so we will not consider them within the framework of this article.
Installation of plastic window blocks in a new wooden house
Installing plastic windows in a new wooden house is somewhat different from replacing them in old openings. It is not required, for obvious reasons, to carry out dismantling work. Additionally, it will be necessary to form a ridge in the side walls of the openings. To do this, using a level, mark out two parallel lines exactly in the middle of the wall. The distance between them will be 50 mm. Along these lines, cuts are also made with a depth of 50 mm. Then, on both sides of the wall, a line is sawn at the same distance from the edge of the opening. The result is a comb that matches in size with the grooves on the racks of the pigtail.
Another point is related to the fact that new house from a tree gives very strong shrinkage in the first year. In some cases, it can reach 5 cm. For this reason, it is better not to insert windows at all in the first year, but if there is such a need, then a shrinkage adjustment is necessary. To do this, at the top above the pigtail, it is necessary to leave a gap about 5 cm wide. It compensates for shrinkage and the frame will be unharmed. This gap can be temporarily filled with boards with soft insulation in order to foam it after the main shrinkage. As the boards shrink, they are taken out one at a time, allowing the gap to gradually narrow.
For wooden houses you should not order ordinary white windows if you are not going to sheathe it with siding. A natural log or beam is worthy of brown windows or having a color similar to the wood structure. If you make an opalel under a tree on them, it will turn out very beautiful combination. White windows are in dissonance with wooden structures.
We have considered ways self installation plastic windows in wooden walls. As you can see, the technology is quite complicated, so it must be observed with great attention. Remember that violation technological rules installation of plastic windows leads to their deformation or loss of positive qualities.
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If you have some initial skills, you can install wooden window no problem with your hands. How to do it easily and efficiently, we will now tell you.
Increasingly, wooden windows are beginning to return to apartments and houses. Despite the advantages of PVC windows, their main disadvantage can be put forward - plastic ones do not breathe at all. Modern wooden windows are made in such a way that you can easily put the same double or triple glazing in them and they serve no less than plastic ones. It happens that the openings are a little skewed and if you call in specialists, then installing a wooden window will cost a pretty penny. Therefore, we do it ourselves.
First you need to decide which window you will install: with which profile, with which fittings. What kind of wood should it be made from? Decided, ordered and bought. Now installation.
Window opening preparation
First of all, you must dismantle the old window. No special skills are required here. To break is not to build. Clean the slopes from the plaster. You still have to make new slopes.
Inspect the opening, if the house is made of brick, then there must be a lintel that holds the wall above the window. In wooden houses, most often there is a log house and there are no lintels there, since there is no load on the frame.
If a window sill was installed in the old window, it must also be dismantled. Anyway, with the installation of a new window, you will install a new window sill. In general, you should get a bare window opening, which you must clean from construction dust and excess debris. There should not even be plaster residue. Everything must be knocked down and cleaned, otherwise it will interfere with you when installing a wooden window.
Mortgages should remain in the opening - these are wooden inserts into which self-tapping screws are driven. If they are not rotten and firmly seated in their places, then they can be left and a wooden window installed in them. If it's bad, it's not scary, because you can do it without mortgages.
We make measurements of the opening
Once the opening is completely clear, you must measure it carefully. The main goal is to determine the configuration of the opening itself, and the dimensions of the new window are already set according to it. If you have come across or seen how openings are measured when installing plastic windows, then this is done in exactly the same way.
There is such a thing as shrinkage. Every house, even a new one, shrinks. And of course this can affect the symmetry of your window opening. Very rarely the opening is perfect. The window itself must certainly be slightly smaller than the opening, especially if it is not symmetrical. You must maintain the gaps, as is done in the figure above.
To make your calculations more accurate, it is better to use a laser tape measure. Or a building thread with which you can beat off the vertical and horizontal. If they are even, then your measurements will also be accurate.
Window fixing methods
As it is now modern window profile allows you to fasten it with anchors through the wall, then you should not invent any other methods - this one will be the simplest and no less reliable. Also, this method allows you to open the sash in any direction.
In wooden houses, this method of fixing the window is the only one. Moreover, this method is no worse than all the others and at the same time it is the simplest. The window can open in different planes, but this will increase the load on the frame itself. With skewed walls, the window sash can jam. Therefore, when measuring, it is required to calculate the size of the window a little less than the opening itself.
How to determine the width of the window frame
The frame must be chosen so thick that the dew point is exactly between the panes. The inner glass must not fog up. The width is at least twelve centimeters, and if you have thick enough walls, then the maximum width should not exceed 22 centimeters.
The profile of a wooden window is made according to the principle of the profile of plastic windows. It often happens that the hardware will be the same. By the way, to choose accessories, you should sweat a little. The durability of your window will depend on it. Therefore, you should definitely familiarize yourself with how to choose the right window fittings.
If, nevertheless, the frame turned out to be more than 22 centimeters wide, you should consider additional thermal insulation, which is installed in the openings during installation. If this is not acceptable for you, then the glass package itself should be triple, but this is an additional load on the sash. It often happens that from this the sash begins to sag. , however, this is additional trouble in the future.
Again, if the wall thickness is large enough, then there are certain proportions that must also be observed. Internal slopes should not be less than 17 centimeters, and external 10 centimeters. Often window openings are made with a quarter and internal slope does not work according to the given parameters. In this case, there is nothing terrible, because the quarter itself will be a kind of additional insulation.
How to install in a concrete opening
If you have brick or block walls, then the installation of a new wooden window often begins with the installation of a window sill. To do this, on the basis of the opening, a cement even cushion is poured in a horizontal plane and the surface is leveled. Usually the thickness of the window sill is from 30 to 50 centimeters, so the window itself, already in size, should be made smaller in height.
The window sill is nailed with several dowels, which are driven directly into the wall. remember that outside the window sill should not protrude beyond the edge window frame. Preparation for the installation of a wooden window is completed and you can begin this process.
The easiest way to install a window is on blocks. Blocks are ordinary boards of equal thickness, which should also have equal thickness with a gap between the wall and window frame. One edge of the block is slightly ground off in the form of a wedge, so that it is possible, if necessary, to correct the window in the opening horizontally and vertically, if the opening itself is not sufficiently even.
At the beginning, support pads are installed - your new wooden window will mainly rely on them, then spacers are installed. Constantly control the vertical and horizontal with the help of a level and, if necessary, adjust with the help of blocks.
As soon as the window frame has fallen into place and you have completely leveled it, we take out the spacer pads in turn and spill these places with silicone, install the pads back. Wipe off excess silicone with a rag. Once the silicone has hardened, the gaps between the opening and the frame can be filled with mounting foam. Any excess of which, after complete drying, is cut off, make slopes outside the window.
More often it looks like this: the resulting gap between the wall and the frame is filled with mounting foam, after drying, the excess is cut off and plastered. Remember that foam must be handled with care. If you overdo it, it can be so open that your window will stop closing. The foam puts a lot of pressure on the frame and arches it. therefore, read the rules for working with mounting foam.
To enhance the effect, the frame is fixed with powerful dowels. Two holes are drilled at the top of the frame and on its sides and the dowels are driven into the wall. At this stage, setting the window to concrete wall completed. You just have to make new beautiful slopes from the inside.
Installation in a wall made of brick, cinder block
If your house is built of cinder block, ceramic brick, or shell rock - that is, from weak materials, then it is desirable to install a new window with a mount through and through. First of all, for this, they drill through the frame in the wall through holes two on each side. You can make holes initially in the frame, then set it evenly in two planes and mark holes in the wall, which are drilled after marking, naturally without a frame. The anchors or screws should be 8 inches longer than the frame itself, plus the gap between your frame and the wall. At the bottom of the window, do not install fasteners through the window sill. Usually it is attached to the frame with ordinary self-tapping screws.
IMPORTANT! You should not make holes through the shoes that the frame is mounted on. If this happens, then it is better to remove the block to the side before tightening the self-tapping screw. If you adjusted the pads for a long time, be sure to mark them with a pencil.
Installation in a skewed window opening
It often happens that the window opening is really skewed. In this case, the most durable fasteners for the window are anchors - ordinary metal strips with holes. Experts usually advise first to fix small fastening intermediate strips on the frame and use them to fasten the anchor to the frame. But this method justifies itself when there are several workers. If you are alone, then it is not worth spending time on this.
Anchors are attached mainly at the ends to the frame using self-tapping screws along the outer perimeter. The tails should stick out inward. They will still be hidden by slopes. As the anchors are ready and screwed to the frame, it can be placed in the window opening. As always, we align the frame horizontally and vertically - after all, our opening is skewed, holes are marked on the wall using the holes in the anchors, the metal strips are bent and they are drilled under the dowels. Once all the holes are ready, the pads are taken out. The frame must hang exactly on the anchors.
Curved openings are either careless work of the builders, or the shrinkage of the building affected the opening. Therefore, you should not have rigid connections between the frame and the walls. The cracks are filled with foam and a window sill is installed. More often, with an oblique opening, the window sill is installed in a hanging way.
Note. Some try to level the window opening with a screed - however, this is a monkey's work, since no screed can stop the uneven shrinkage of the building.
How to properly blow out a gap with foam
Window slots are blown out with a pistol or, at worst, with the tube that comes with the bottle of foam. This is done in several approaches, squeezing out thin sausages starting from the middle inward and vice versa. This method will not allow the foam to exert any pressure on the window frame and the foam itself will be evenly distributed around the perimeter.
Installation in a wooden house
In wooden houses, it is usually easy to install windows. Many experts install them on liquid nails, but most adhere to the self-tapping method. If the opening is skewed, then it can be leveled using the same chainsaw or hacksaw. Wood is much easier to work with. Outside, the platbands must be fixed with self-tapping screws. A strong wind will simply rip them off and no liquid nails will hold them.
Video: installation features of wooden windows
I think you now know how to install a wooden window with your own hands and it doesn’t matter what this opening will be: concrete or wooden. The work is not difficult in itself and not so difficult, but at the same time it will require you to be attentive and take into account some factors in advance.
Under the heading |Pursuing self-repair, many are interested in:
“Is it possible to install PVC windows with your own hands?”
"How difficult is it?"
This event can be classified as medium-difficult work.
In terms of time, it may take about five hours for a person without experience to work on replacing the middle window, including its dismantling.
Constantly practicing employees of specialized firms spend much less time on this.
The upper and side parts from the inside of the room and from the outside are closed with slopes. They may be made from the same material or using a different technology.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows
Measurement
To order plastic windows, you need to make important ones. These are six mandatory indicators: the width and length of the window sill and slope, the width and height of the window.
In order for the measurements to be performed correctly, you need to determine the type of your window opening - with or without a quarter.
The opening is inspected: it is a quarter if the inside of the window is wider and the outside is narrower. Measurements in this case carried out at the narrowest point, and at several different points. It is necessary to determine the smallest indicator, and add three centimeters to it. This is a measure of the width. The height is set as it is.
In the case of an even opening, without a quarter, the calculation is carried out differently. Height and width are measured, and five cm are subtracted from the first value, and three are the second. This is the height and width of the future window. The side three cm are removed because gaps of one and a half cm are needed for mounting foam on both sides. Five cm of height are distributed as follows: the same one and a half cm from above, and 3.5 cm below will be required for mounting the window sill.
The length of the window sill is considered to be five to ten centimeters greater than the width of the opening inside the room. The length of the ebb is also calculated, but outside. For some distance they go deep into the wall. The window sill is measured on the basis that it should deviate somewhat from.
Its width can be different - at the discretion of the owners. More often it ends a little further than the battery. Before ordering, you need to decide what components will be in your window, and how many there will be: is there a capercaillie, if so, where is it located, the number of sashes, how they open, in what positions. The type of fittings used is also considered in advance.
Preparing for installation
Removing old windows
When replacing windows with new ones, the old ones must be dismantled. This is easy to do, but it will take some effort. Then an audit of the opening is carried out, during which everything that can fall off later is removed. All protruding parts are removed with a chisel, hammer or even power tools.
All debris generated during the dismantling process must be carefully removed, including construction dust. In the presence of large cavities or potholes, it is advisable to cover them with a solution. The fact is that the installation is easier to carry out, the smoother the window opening. If the walls are made of too loose material, they should be treated with special ones.
The choice of installation method for metal-plastic windows
Exist various methods installation: with window disassembly (unpacking) and without.
When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchors are driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but more reliable.
With another method, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, then they are fixed to the wall with them. This is much faster, but such a mount is not the most reliable. The frame may sag or warp under significant loads, such as strong winds.
If you do not want to disassemble the window, then for installation it is better to use wide and thick plates used when installing the system. If you install small windows on just such, then they will stand normally in the absence of strong wind loads.
If your region is characterized by frequent and strong winds that blow mainly through the windows, and the apartment is located on a high floor, then installation with disassembly will be required.
Window installation technology
Let's take a closer look at both methods. Indeed, it is often the method of mounting on plates that is required.
It is preferred in buildings erected from low bearing capacity, when it is necessary to distribute the load from windows over a large surface.
Also, this method is necessary in the case of building a building using a special “layered” technology: for example, behind and in front of concrete layers, between which a layer of insulation is placed.
If it is intended to install a window in a soft layer, then it should be fixed with plates. Installation of PVC windows in a house, panel or cinder block is best done on an anchor.
After installation, only a plastic profile will remain in three planes and in two axes of rotation.
Installation with unpacking
With this method, only the frame is installed in the opening.
First, the window opening and the frame itself are measured to make sure they are compatible. Only after that they start working.
The process begins with unpacking the window. Actions are carried out according to the following algorithm:
Removing window sash
- the window is placed in the closed position, its handle is directed down;
- pry off with a screwdriver and remove the plastic lining from the hinges;
- the pin on the top hinge serves as a movable connection, it is located in the center and protrudes slightly. By pressing, you need to slightly drown it so that it slides out below. Then it is grabbed with pliers (or side cutters) and pulled down;
- hold the sash at the top, turn the handle, opening the lock. The upper part deviates slightly towards itself, the sash rises and is removed from the pin at the bottom.
The double-glazed window is also removed on the capercaillie. It is held by glazing beads, which are removed, after which it can be easily removed.
Beads are removed
- something strong and narrow is inserted between the frame and the glazing bead, for which it is convenient to use a spatula. Disassembly usually starts on the long side;
- the angle of the spatula is inserted into the slot and the glazing bead is gently moved away from the frame, moving along the entire length. The separated glazing bead is taken out;
- with a short side is even simpler: the freed edge is hooked and removed from the groove by turning the spatula. By pulling it up, the glazing bead is removed.
After all of the above activities, you can try to pull out the double-glazed window. You should be careful that it does not fall out: it is quite heavy.
The double-glazed window is pulled out
- along the outer perimeter, the released frame is glued with self-adhesive tape, as recommended by GOST, so that the future window does not dry out;
- remove the protective tape;
- a prepared frame is inserted into the opening. To set it up, you will need mounting wedges, which are placed under the impost and in the corners, as well as in places where it is necessary. They are gradually laid down, while the window is aligned in three planes, strictly according to the level. The position of the window is fixed using mounting plates;
- drill with drill right size make mounting holes, retreating 15-18 cm from the top edge for the first of them. At approximately the same distance from the bottom corner there will be a place for the lower fastener. IN standard window one more anchor is placed between them: the distance between adjacent fasteners should not exceed 70 cm;
- having made holes for fastening, in all three planes they check the position of the frame - whether it has moved. After that, the anchor is carefully hammered in, tightened, but not overtightened. It is impossible for the profile to sag;
Arrangement of low tides from the street side
- self-adhesive vapor-permeable insulation is glued outside the frame. Neat strobes are made along the sides of the opening: later, the edges of the tides will be brought into them;
- on outer part opening, in the place where the tide is supported on the wall, apply mounting foam. In some cases (with large elevation differences), a lining profile is first mounted, to which the ebb is attached. The ebb of the desired size is fixed with screws to the frame under its ledge;
- the tide foams along the bottom edge;
- the opening is also foamed. In summer, for a better setting of the foam, the space between the opening and the frame is sprayed with water;
- a heat-insulating vapor-permeable strip is glued along the contour of the window frame;
- all gaps for two-thirds of the volume are filled with foam. With a large gap, it is necessary to do this in several stages, with an interval of at least ten minutes between applications. After the first layer dries, it is sprayed with water, then the next one is applied;
- until complete polymerization has occurred, the edge of the tape is glued to the window opening. It is important to remember that when using heat-insulating tape, the slopes must be made of plastic. Mortar and plaster do not stick to it;
- all parts of the window are assembled;
- vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill, at the bottom. In the same place, support pads made of solid
