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Self-installation of wooden windows in a wooden house. Features of installing windows in stone, frame and wooden houses How to insert a plastic window into a wooden house

Do-it-yourself window installation will save up to 50% of the money that would be spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything right, otherwise the savings will be doubtful. For wooden houses, there are some features that you should be aware of.

Possible problems with incorrect installation of windows

It is advisable to adequately assess your strengths in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:

• • lack of casing - a house made of timber during shrinkage “walks” and begins to put pressure on window frames;

• • the use of mounting foam in the shrinkage gap between the top in the casing and the wall of the house - the hardened foam is very hard and will transfer pressure from the upper bars to the window frame, nullifying the functions of the casing;

• • incorrect calculation of the dimensions of the plastic window frame - not taking into account the mounting gap, you will have to expand the window opening;

• • too large a gap between the frame and the wall - with a simple foaming of such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
  • lack of external protection of the mounting gap - when foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, it is better to close the gap from the outside with PSUL tape, which provides foam protection from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;

• • lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in the insulating properties;

• • placing the window in the "cold zone" - is the cause of the freezing of the slopes and the formation of condensate with inside

If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save money and order the installation of windows. For an experienced builder, do-it-yourself installation should not be a problem.

Pitfalls that plastic window manufacturers do not talk about

Tightness and high sound insulation plastic double-glazed windows served as undoubted advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in residential premises is constantly increasing, and thanks to leaky wooden frames, a constant inflow of water is ensured. fresh air. Of course too big gaps they are able to cool the house a lot, so euro windows have long become a very popular product.

How to solve the problem with high humidity? One option is to do forced ventilation. But in the absence of ventilation holes, this can be problematic - you will have to redo a lot.

It was for such cases that window frames were invented. supply valves- special profiles that are installed on plastic windows. What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and fasten the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for owners of wooden houses is that companies that install plastic windows often do not guarantee their work, citing the unpredictability of wood behavior. So even with all the installation rules, you can find that after a few years the windows stopped opening. And you won't be able to sharpen the plastic with a file.

Manufacture of casing (pigtails)

The first thing that begins with the installation of windows - with the installation of casing. But is it always needed and how to do it right?

When you can do without pigtails

A new wooden house made of logs or timber will shrink in any case. And no one canceled the seasonal heaving of the soil. In this case, casing is required - it will protect the window from distortions, torsion or bends.

It is important to use only dry and durable material for casing boards - edged board 50 mm thick and edged timber 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.

But in a frame house, you can not make a pigtail - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. In a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, some builders also do not mount the casing, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind in your home, it is better to do it, this process is not so complicated.

How to do a squash correctly

The last option is the most time-consuming, but also the most reliable. If there are doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to make a casing in a mortgage bar. For this:

• • IN window opening, in the middle of the beam, two vertical grooves 5x5 cm in size are selected. This can be done both with a chainsaw and with a hand circular saw, chisel and ax. The second option is preferable if the hand is not stuffed for precise work with a chainsaw.

• • On top of the mortgage bar is laid edged board and fixed with self-tapping screws flush - two at the top and bottom. To do this, a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the head of the self-tapping screw is pre-drilled.
  • If the “thorn-monolith” casing option is chosen, then the previously sawn T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and also screwed on with self-tapping screws.
  • Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the top laid on them with a thickness of 5 cm is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrink gap.
  • The tip must fit into the grooves with little effort rather than move freely in the horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws screwed in at an angle.
  • The insulation is laid in the shrinkage gap and closed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with a windproof membrane. In no case should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-tight films - the accumulated condensate will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.

And this is how the casing is done “in the deck”:

When the pigtail is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation of double-glazed windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

The installation of double-glazed windows is not very complicated, but it requires precise adherence to the technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense, and the frame will warp.

Checking the delivered double-glazed window

In no case should you neglect this moment! First, the dimensions of the window opening and the double-glazed window are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a stand profile (clover) of 3 cm. Thus, the gap on top will turn out to be 1 cm. it needs to be left a place at the window calculation. It is needed so that the window sill can be installed from the inside, and the ebb can be screwed on the outside.

If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, it is also necessary to check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often “lost” as windows are transported without them. But pins - special fasteners, you need to select yourself.

Their length should be such that, when fully screwed in, they reach only to the middle of the casing. And that's with clearance. If the dowel is screwed into the wall wooden house, the window will begin to deform regardless of the presence of a pigtail.

Often overlooked and small items- decorative trim fittings and drainage holes. They also need to be counted. But the window sill and the ebb must be ordered - forgetting to clarify their need, you can find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glass itself - their presence can only be seen by disassembling the double-glazed window.

They may not be included in the kit, so it is better to order them in advance. Wedges are convenient because, thanks to their different sizes, you can set the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge desired thickness under corners and racks.

Dismantling and preparation of double-glazed windows

The finished double-glazed window is brought assembled. But to install it, you have to disassemble everything to the frame. For this:

• • when closed, the upper pins holding the swinging sash are removed with a special key;
  • the window handle is inserted, the sash opens and is removed from the lower mounts;
  • glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and a regular knife;
  • you need to remember or designate the right and left glazing beads;
  • With outer side removed protective film- under the influence of the sun, after a few months it will no longer come off;
  • external elements are mounted - mosquito net holders and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
  • holes for pins are drilled - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;

As soon as preliminary preparation completed, you can proceed directly to the installation.

Installation of the frame and assembly of plastic windows

First, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, temporary jibs nailed on the outside. But it is much easier to do everything with an assistant - he just holds the frame until it is leveled and screwed to the casing. Frame installation also requires the correct sequence:

1. 1. The bottom edge is leveled - laser level more convenient in this regard. Wedges are placed under each rack different thickness so as to achieve a perfectly even position. Even minimal distortion will create problems during operation.
   2. Side braces are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If the width of the window frame is too small and literally "falls out" of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.

1. 1. The frame is also aligned vertically. Do not forget that you need to install it in a "warm" zone - for wooden walls without external insulation it's right in the middle.
   2. Once the frame is level, you can begin to mount it, starting with the side racks. First, holes are drilled in the tree through those already made in the frame, and then the dowels are baited. First, the upper and lower, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
   3. As soon as the frame is fixed, the ebb is attached outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The ebb is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed with two screws along the edges, and the gap is filled under it mounting foam.

1. 1. Decorative trims are put on the fasteners of the sash. The lower ones are put on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then the handle is attached in the open state.

1. 1. Double-glazed windows are placed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the emphasis on the metal parts in the corners of the frame.

1. 1. The mounting seam around the perimeter is foamed.
   2. The window sill is installed. To do this, a finished window sill is placed on the window sill, wedges are placed under it for leveling. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are smeared with sealant, and the free space between the wedges is foamed. Again, the window sill is placed, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.

1. In some cases, they do the opposite - first install the window sill, align it in level and screw it with dowels to the casing. And then a double-glazed window is placed on top of it. In this case, it is no longer necessary to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the window sill material must withstand the action external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting the wooden element.

Once the mounting foam has hardened, you can start finishing the windows.

Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house

The easiest option that even girls can handle is to close them plastic panels. For this you will need:

• L-shaped or start profile- it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
• decorative plastic corner- it closes the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed with self-tapping screws;
• the plastic lining itself for the slopes.

And you don't even need to froth anything. But to ensure necessary protection mounting seam and good insulation, it is necessary to lay insulation between the wall and the slope and cover it with a vapor barrier. From the outside, the seam is closed with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.

And in order for the windows to please with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect the mounting foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being taken away by birds. You do not need to restrain your soul's impulses if you want to start doing something with my own hands. And everything will definitely work out!

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How to fix a window: an overview of fasteners and a photo report on the installation

Hello. In this article, I will talk about how to fix plastic windows in a residential building with your own hands using available tool . I hope that this topic will be of interest to you, as installation skills can save money.

Despite the fact that for many manufacturers the price of windows includes the cost of installation, there are many companies where they will sell you a double-glazed window cheaper due to self-assembly. Saving money is obvious!

Basic information about window installation

Installation of glazing in the opening differs depending on the type of profile used and depending on the type of walls. For example, installation in a stone, concrete or brick wall is carried out directly without any structures that compensate for the mechanical loads on the window.

At the same time, installation wooden house is carried out with a mandatory casing box device, which compensates for loads due to shrinkage processes.

There are two main requirements for the installation of plastic double-glazed windows:

• Strength and reliability of the installed glazing;
• Correct location in terms of level relative to the vertical and horizontal plane;
• Properly executed sealing of gaps along the perimeter of the opening to ensure optimal energy efficiency of the glazing.

Fasteners for installation of double-glazed windows in PVC profile

Commonly used fasteners for plastic windows: a - frame dowel with a metal seal; b - frame dowel c plastic seal; c - universal plastic dowel; g - screw (self-tapping screw); e - anchor plate

Before proceeding to the description of the installation, I propose to find out what fasteners for PVC windows can be purchased at hardware stores. There are many fasteners and such a variety is not accidental, since each variety is intended for one or another type of wall.

Window fasteners, according to the type of walls, are divided into the following categories:

• For concrete walls;
• for the installation of brick walls;
• for installation in aerated concrete walls;
• for fastening to wood.

By the way, with the use of the listed fasteners, a protective grille can be installed.

Fasteners for installation in concrete openings

Plastic double-glazed windows are installed in concrete openings by means of anchors or, as they are also called, frame dowels.

For reliable fixation of a heavy window in a concrete opening, it is customary to use anchors with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm and a length of 72 to 202 mm. The length and diameter of the hardware are selected taking into account the density of the wall - the more porous the concrete, the longer and thicker the anchor.

No matter how long and thick the anchors are, the strength of the finished result will depend on how carefully the hole is drilled. If the walls of the hole are broken as a result of unprofessional drilling, even the most reliable fixing hardware will not provide the necessary strength of installation.

Installation with anchors is carried out in two ways:

1. A hole is drilled in the profile and the anchor enters the concrete directly through the profile;
2. An anchor plate is attached to the profile and through the plate the window structure is fastened to the opening.

The first method is relevant if the technological gap between the profile and the gap is small. If the distance between the profile and the opening is more than 1 cm, an anchor plate can be used, since the fasteners can be covered when finishing if plastic slopes are used.

Anchor plates are metal strips of a simple or complex configuration. Plain plates are ordinary perforated strips. Along with such devices, there are “crabs” - plates that cut into the profile, which simplifies the finishing of slopes.

Fasteners for installation in brick walls

The fastening of plastic windows in a brick opening is carried out in approximately the same way as in. But there is one problem: if for installation in concrete, holes for the anchor in the profile can be drilled in advance, then in the case of brick walls holes are drilled in place, as you need to get into the center of the brick, and not into the seam of the masonry.

For installation in brick, the same frame dowel is used as for concrete walls, but with a length of at least 10 cm. A length of 10 cm is the minimum entry into the brick at which you can be sure that the fastening will not loosen or weaken when operation.

If you are sure that the brick is not hollow, and today this is rarely used, you can use dowels 6-8 cm long.

Fasteners for installation in wooden openings

The best option for installing windows in a wooden opening without a casing is self-tapping screws in combination with anchor plates. This type of fastening is equally good for log, lumber and frame buildings.

If a casing box is installed in the opening, installation can be done with screws directly through the profile. To install glazing in a wooden opening, I recommend using self-tapping screws with a length of at least 10 cm and a diameter of 8 mm. We screw in the screws in increments of 30 cm.

Fasteners for installation in aerated concrete openings

Aerated concrete blocks are characterized by low density, and therefore we choose special dowels for installation and perform installation with a small pitch between the screws.

Installation of glazing in aerated concrete walls requires detailed consideration, since all large quantity houses are built using such blocks. That is why, in order to get acquainted with the installation technology, I offer a small photo report on the installation work done.

Installation of a plastic window in the walls of aerated concrete blocks

To perform installation work you will need:

• perforated anchor plates(160×40 mm and 2 mm thick);
• Plastic dowels (50×10 mm) for mounting in aerated concrete;
• Universal metal self-tapping screws (60×6 mm);
• Electric drill and drills in accordance with the diameter of the dowel;
• Screwdriver with a set of bits;
• water level;
• Roulette and pencil.

Installation instructions are as follows:

• If the perforation in the anchor plates does not match the diameter of the dowels, we drill holes, if the diameter initially matches, skip this step and proceed to the next one;

• Along the perimeter of the profile, we fasten the anchor plates to the self-tapping screws so that the holes drilled for the dowels are located outside;

In order for the frame to be securely fixed in the opening, we mount the anchor plates on 2 self-tapping screws, which will prevent them from turning. In addition, the installation step should not exceed 30-40 cm.

• We install the frame in the opening on plastic inserts and position it according to the level in the horizontal and vertical plane;

• After the structure is aligned in the opening, we drill holes in the aerated concrete blocks in accordance with the perforation in the anchor plates;

For drilling aerated concrete blocks, it is not necessary to use a drill with a winning surfacing. Since aerated concrete is soft, it is quite possible to use the same drill that was previously used to drill out anchor plates. By the way, when drilling, we try not to pull the drill from side to side, since breaking a hole in aerated concrete is easier than ever, and as a result, the dowel will not stick to the wall.

• We screw dowels into the drilled holes;

• We screw self-tapping screws into the screwed dowels;

At the end of the installation work, we do not remove the liners from under the window, as they will provide additional stability to the structure.

• From the spray gun, we abundantly moisten the technological gap between the opening and the profile;
• We fill the technological gap around the entire perimeter with mounting foam, so that the excess applied foam comes out from the outside and the gap is completely filled;
• After the foam has dried, the excess is cut off with a mounting knife on both sides of the profile.

By the way, how to attach a thermometer on the window and at the same time not make holes in the profile in vain?

It turns out that there is nothing complicated, just buy a special thermometer with Velcro on the glass. Thermometers with ears and mounting holes should not be mounted on plastic, but on wooden frames. But, if there is a thermometer with holes for screws, fix this device on the profile with short self-tapping screws - this will not harm the profile.

In conclusion, I note that if you don’t know how to fix the handle on the profile, you can also use small self-tapping screws that will go through the PVC and will be held in the metal.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install window block PVC in the opening of walls of different composition. I hope that the suggested instructions were useful to you. If you have any questions, as usual, ask them in the comments to the text. Also, don't forget to watch the video in this article.

September 24, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

When building a wooden house, the question often arises which windows to install, wooden or plastic. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Plastic structures are distinguished by lower cost and longer service life. They require minimal maintenance during operation. Therefore, most often people choose this particular material. But what are the features of installing plastic window structures in wooden walls? Are there fundamental differences between installing windows in a new and old house? It is essential to know the answers to these questions. So, we install plastic windows in a wooden house with our own hands.

Features of window structures made of PVC

Plastic windows are a construction of a PVC frame with metal profile inside and double-glazed windows. They are double and triple. Air is pumped out between the panes of double-glazed windows. The entire structure, assembled into a finished window, is completely sealed and provides all the necessary consumer properties. Features of materials, technology for the production of profiles and double-glazed windows, as well as their assembly into a single whole made it possible to endow plastic windows with important advantages:

• They perfectly protect from the cold, thanks to the double-glazed windows with vacuum and the design of the plastic profile.
• They have increased soundproofing qualities for the same reasons.
• Their vents are so perfectly fitted that they exclude any distortions when correct adjustment and installation.
• The service life of such windows exceeds 50 years.
• They require no maintenance other than cleaning and lubricating the hinges.
• They have an aesthetic appearance and a wide choice of models and coloring of a profile.
• The cost of plastic windows is much lower than those of wooden ones in terms of properties and quality.

An important point is that the installation of plastic windows is quite possible and independently, subject to certain rules. If for brick and concrete walls it does not present any difficulty, then for installation plastic structures in wooden houses it is necessary to take into account a number of circumstances, which will be discussed later.

Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house to replace the old ones

Due to their excellent consumer qualities, affordable cost and the possibility of acquiring by installments and credit, plastic windows gradually filled a huge number of window openings even in old wooden houses. Today, an unimaginable number of companies are engaged in the installation of plastic structures on a professional basis. Often the cost of installing one window is up to 20% of its cost. At the same time, anyone who knows how to handle the tool is able to independently change the old windows in their house for new ones made of PVC.
To do this, you need some tools and materials:

• Electric drill or puncher with a set of drills.
• Gasoline or electric saw, nail puller or crowbar. For dismantling old jambs and frames.
• Manual a circular saw. For making grooves on the pigtail.
• Building level. Essential for all work. Without it, you should not even start replacing windows.
• Autonomous screwdriver.
• Plastic chisel. Needed in order to select a groove in the risers of the pigtails.
• Roulette.
• A mallet made of rubber or wood.
• Pliers.
• Anchor plates and bolts, self-tapping screws.
• Hexagon to fit window adjusting screws.
• Construction mounting foam. One window can take from 1 to 3 cylinders, depending on the size of the gaps.
• Gloves.
• Wooden expansion wedges.
• Water in the sprayer.

It is necessary to install windows with at least two people, since it is impossible for one person to lift and level a massive window. One person should support the frame, and the second should do all the manipulations to align it and fix it in the slopes.
First, dismantling work is carried out. If the old window blocks can still be used somewhere, and you want to keep them intact, then you will have to tinker, taking everything apart carefully. To do this, first take out the frames, and then remove the window sill and the block itself, trying not to damage it. Most often, in old wooden houses, only glazed frames can be used, and the blocks have already become unusable. In this case, they simply saw them in the middle and tear them out of the walls with a nail puller. The vacated opening is cleaned of debris and rot. If the log or beam under the window is rotten, and this is most likely the case, then they are also sawn out and replaced with new ones. The joints are foamed with mounting foam.

When the openings are completely cleaned, you can start finishing them before inserting plastic windows. There are two options here: the block is inserted directly into the opening, which is wrong, or it is first framed around the perimeter with a special pigtail. In the first case, it will only be necessary to cut off a spike in the walls with a chainsaw, on which the old wooden window block was held. In the second case, you need to make a new pigtail. You can’t leave old jambs, even if they are in excellent condition.

It should be noted that if the house is not very old, then making a pigtail is mandatory. After all, even for 5 - 6 years wooden frame tends to shrink, which can deform plastic blocks. The box is made in the following way. In a beam of 100x150 mm, a longitudinal groove is selected, having a width equal to the width of the ridge remaining on the walls. To do this, you need a circular saw, an ax and a chisel with a hammer. Longitudinal cuts are made with a saw, and then the groove is finalized with an ax and a chisel. With this groove, the resulting riser is installed vertically on the crest of the wall. There are two such risers for each window. At the bottom of each jamb, a spike 50x50x25 mm is selected. It is needed for attaching the lower bar, in which spikes are also made on both sides.

The risers should not reach 100 mm to the upper log of the opening. This will allow you to freely insert the top bar. It is necessary that it does not reach 45 mm to the log. Between themselves, all the bars of the pigtails are fastened with dowels, and the joints are insulated with jute tape.

Installing a plastic window block requires special care and precision. If you neglect the rules, then the window will not only open and close poorly, but it may also leak or freeze in winter. The simplest way- this is to drill a frame and screw it onto the screws directly to the walls. However, this is the worst and wrong option, which violates the thermal insulation and tightness of the plastic block. The technology for installing plastic windows in wooden walls involves the use of pigtails.

For the correct installation of PVC window blocks, special fasteners are required, a place for which is available at the ends of any frame. They look like thin metal plates with perforation. The frames have technical skids along the entire edge of the profile. They are made in the form of a gutter with a hook. To facilitate the design of the window, you can remove the doors and vents by removing the pins from the hinges. Sometimes this may not be enough, for example, when installing windows at high heights. In this case, all double-glazed windows can be removed so that only the frame remains. This will require a special device for pulling out plastic glazing beads. Only this must be done carefully so as not to damage the double-glazed windows and not violate the tightness of the profile.

The frame is installed using the building level. Alignment is done both vertically and horizontally. The frame is fixed first with wooden wedges-spacers. Before that, two identical chips 10 mm thick must be placed under the frame. This is enough to be able to foam the gap with mounting foam. This is required by the technology of installing plastic windows. The aligned frame is fixed with the help of fasteners on the pigtail in several places.

After that, the window is completely assembled and the sashes are hung. Attention! Installation of double-glazed windows must be done correctly. Inside the frame there are deformation pads made of soft plastic. They must be located on all sides of the double-glazed window so that it does not directly come into contact with the profile anywhere. This is necessary so that as a result of accidental deformation, the glass does not crack. Since the glazing beads have corner cuts along the edges, it is not so easy to insert them into place. To install the glazing bead, one of its edges is inserted under the previous bead perpendicular to it. Then bend in the middle and gently insert under the second. Only after that they press it into place.

Correctly installed glazing beads should not have any gaps with the frame. When installing them, you need to try not to damage the sealing gum, otherwise water will accumulate in the frame. After installing double-glazed windows around the perimeter, foaming is carried out, not forgetting to remove chips and spacers after the foam dries. The resulting holes are foamed. Attention! If the frame is foamed without completely assembling it and without hanging the sashes, then when it hardens, the foam deforms it so that it will be impossible to insert and close anything.

Of course, self-installation of plastic windows in a wooden house has some difficulties, but if you do everything according to the instructions, following all the recommendations, then everything will work out for you, and the plastic windows installed by your hands will please you for a long time without causing any problems.

Now the matter remains small: to install a window sill, ebb and veneer the slopes, both inside and outside. To install the window sill, it is cut so that it does not go beyond the opening. Install it directly under the frame in level. To fix the window sill, it is wedged with wooden wedges between the walls. Bars are placed under the bottom so that it accepts horizontal position. After that, the entire space between the window sill and the slope is foamed. The ebb is also installed horizontally and the bent part is screwed onto the screws to the frame. There are a large number of ways to finish slopes, so we will not consider them within the framework of this article.

Installation of plastic window blocks in a new wooden house

Installing plastic windows in a new wooden house is somewhat different from replacing them in old openings. It is not required, for obvious reasons, to carry out dismantling work. Additionally, it will be necessary to form a ridge in the side walls of the openings. To do this, using a level, mark out two parallel lines exactly in the middle of the wall. The distance between them will be 50 mm. Along these lines, cuts are also made with a depth of 50 mm. Then, on both sides of the wall, a line is sawn at the same distance from the edge of the opening. The result is a comb that matches in size with the grooves on the racks of the pigtail.

Another point is related to the fact that new house from a tree gives very strong shrinkage in the first year. In some cases, it can reach 5 cm. For this reason, it is better not to insert windows at all in the first year, but if there is such a need, then a shrinkage adjustment is necessary. To do this, at the top above the pigtail, it is necessary to leave a gap about 5 cm wide. It compensates for shrinkage and the frame will be unharmed. This gap can be temporarily filled with boards with soft insulation, so that after the main shrinkage it is foamed. As the boards shrink, they are taken out one at a time, allowing the gap to gradually narrow.

For wooden houses, you should not order ordinary white windows if you are not going to sheathe it with siding. A natural log or beam is worthy of brown windows or having a color similar to the wood structure. If you make an opalel under a tree on them, it will turn out very beautiful combination. White windows are in dissonance with wooden structures.

We have considered ways self installation plastic windows in wooden walls. As you can see, the technology is quite complicated, so it must be observed with great attention. Remember that violation technological rules installation of plastic windows leads to their deformation or loss of positive qualities.

You can insert windows in a wooden house with your own hands today without resorting to the services of professionals. Modern metal-plastic window systems allow you to give the facade a neat, well-groomed appearance. Installing windows with energy-saving properties significantly reduces the level of energy consumption in a private house. A plastic window in a wooden house creates the necessary microclimate and comfort.

Features of a wooden house with PVC windows

Plastic windows are distinguished by their energy-saving properties due to their design. In order for this quality to be fully realized, normal ventilation conditions must be created in a wooden house, otherwise unpleasant phenomena cannot be avoided.

In a wooden house with PVC windows, it is necessary to properly equip ventilation

If we talk about a newly built wooden house, then its main feature is natural shrinkage, which takes some time. This is the main condition that should be taken into account when installing windows in wooden houses in order to avoid situations where, during shrinkage, the window structure is deformed and irrevocably fails.

Measurement

Carrying out measurements in a wooden house is different from measurements in houses made of other materials. This is due to the fact that wood is able to change its parameters depending on the impacts. environment. When moisture is absorbed, the wood expands.

gap between window frame and the opening must have minimum size, but sufficient, taking into account the possible expansion of the opening when the wood swells. Otherwise, window skew is inevitable.

The gap between the frame and the opening is left taking into account the possible swelling of the wood

If a plastic window is to be installed in an old wooden house and it is planned to leave the existing wooden frame, then at the stage of making this decision, the frame should be inspected for traces of decay and insect damage. The frame must be strong, because it will be the base to which the window will be attached.

If the existing frame is unsuitable, then measurements are made taking into account the presence in the future of this structural element window. If there are slopes before measurements, they are removed, since the clean window opening can be much larger.

Criteria for choosing a window system

The window system consists of several components, each of which performs its function and is important in its own way.

How to choose the right glass

The surface of the glass occupies the bulk of the area of ​​the window structure, so a greater percentage of heat loss occurs through it.

Modern double-glazed windows are characterized by the number of internal air chambers filled with an inert gas, which has a low thermal conductivity. Hence the name - single-chamber or two-chamber.

Three-chamber double-glazed windows have higher thermal insulation characteristics

A double-glazed window consists of three glasses 0.4 cm thick, installed at a distance of 1.6 cm each. That is, an indicator of 1.6 cm is the width of the air chamber.

The ability of the glass surface to resist heat loss can be enhanced by applying protective transparent or tinted layers to windows. Tinting is golden, silver, bronze, bottle blue or glass green.

How to choose the right profile

When inserting windows in a wooden house with your own hands, it is important to take a responsible approach to choosing a profile. Shutters and a window frame are made of a metal-plastic profile. It, like a double-glazed window, has a certain number of chambers in its design, which directly affects its thickness. The air in the profile chambers has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. More chambers - higher energy efficiency of the design. For example, a five-chamber profile with triple glazing is also capable of performing a soundproof function.

Each window structure is equipped with a drip tray to remove accumulated moisture, as well as a special chamber at the bottom of the profile, which contains silica gel - these are small yellow granules. This substance accumulates in itself excess condensate, which can form on the glasses.

You can choose a profile laminated under a tree

To make a wooden wall with pvc window looked harmonious, the profile can be laminated. At the same time, the universal white color will also look good on the facade of a wooden house. You can laminate the profile under walnut, cherry, oak or mahogany - these are the most common options.. In the case of lamination under natural wood species, the window sill is also cashed in the same design, and the ebb is chosen in brown.

How to choose fittings and seals

Fittings - this is the element window system, which should not only have a beautiful appearance, but also be durable and reliable. The internal mechanisms of the tilt-and-turn system can withstand repeated loads. Therefore, they are made of high quality and durable material.

The lifespan of the windows largely depends on the quality of the fittings.

The sealing material for a plastic window must withstand temperature extremes and not collapse over time.

Checking products before installation

In order to avoid problems and unexpected unpleasant surprises during the installation process, it is important to first check the readiness and completeness of the products that the manufacturer must deliver to the installation site. If the delivered product has obvious defects during visual inspection, then it must be returned.

If finished windows the customer exports from the territory of the manufacturer on his own, then this check must be produced at the place of manufacture. As a rule, the company's managers themselves offer to do this, so that later the customer signs the act of work performed that he has no complaints about the quality of the products.

The measurement results are indicated in the measurement sheet.

It is necessary to check the dimensions indicated in the act, and for reliability, compare them with the dimensions in the measuring sheet. A copy of it is given to the customer along with the contract, which sometimes specifies maximum permissible deviations. In case of discrepancy, the act is not signed, and the product is given to the manufacturer for rework.

If everything is fine with the dimensions, then the next step is to check the plane of the product - it should be even, without bends and deformations. The window system is delivered assembled, so it is important to check the sash control mechanism. Then the integrity of the double-glazed window and the density of the sealing elements inside are checked.

Installation of windows in a wooden house on an existing frame

If the house is not new, then first you have to dismantle the old wooden windows, this must be done carefully, since some elements are quite suitable for use in the subsidiary farm. When all preparatory work carried out, you can proceed with the installation of the window. How to properly insert windows in a modern wooden house with your own hands will be discussed below.

For the installation of windows during construction, preparation of the opening is not required

First you need to remove debris from the window box and clean it. Next comes the installation of the window sill. Control over the horizontal position is carried out using a level.

So that the window sill does not “ride” during the fastening process, its end sides can be brought into the side racks, where it is necessary to make appropriate recesses. fasten window sill necessary with self-tapping screws. The window must be inserted using the unpacking method, that is, it will be necessary to remove the sashes and double-glazed windows.

Wood screws secure the window frame to the box. It is important to control the vertical position of the window frame. It is placed in the center of the opening so that there are spaces on both sides for the assembly seam. Fix its immobility with bars or wedges.

Be sure to leave a gap between the frame and the opening, which is filled with mounting foam

When filling assembly seams do not remove the foam until it has completely solidified. And after the foam hardens, it is cut off and covered with mortar or plastic pads to protect it from direct sun rays, under the influence of which the material is destroyed.

When the frame is fixed, all previously removed elements of the window system are installed in reverse order.

Installing a window in a log house

To avoid problems that may occur as a result of shrinkage, in log house openings must be carefully prepared. Installing windows in log house occurs with a pigtail or, in other words, with a casing device.

The installation of windows in a log house begins with the installation of a casing or pigtail, which ensures the independence of the window system from the behavior of the walls of the house. Wooden windows can also be installed in this way.

To install windows in a log house, first mount a pigtail

There are two types of casing device when building a log house. More common is the method in which grooves are made in the end parts of the logs in the opening, into which bars of the same size are placed. Usually it is 50x50 mm. This method is used when it is necessary to insert a window from a tree.

For double-glazed windows, the second method is used: a comb is cut out at the ends of the logs, on which a carriage with a groove is put on, inside which, as if along guides, the log will shrink when dried.

Carriage is a vertically oriented structure made of timber 150x100 mm, having a length over size windows are on average 5 cm.

Installation of windows in frame houses

Installing windows in frame house do-it-yourself is carried out without installing a casing, since the material of the frame of such a house is not subject to shrinkage.

Scheme for installing a window in a frame house

Windows are installed in a modern wooden house by attaching them to anchor plates, which must be purchased in advance if they were not included with the window. During installation, it is important not to forget to control the position of the window in the plane horizontally and vertically.

The plates are attached to the end parts of the frame in five places. One in the center on top and two on both sides with an indent from the edge of the frame of at least 20-25 cm. Then the window is installed in the opening, a gap is left for the foam from below, placing bars under the frame, and the frame is fixed to the pigtail. The side gaps are also foamed.

Do-it-yourself installation of windows in a wooden house should not cause difficulties, subject to the technology of installation work and taking into account the specifics of a log house.

Windows made of durable and durable plastic, today it can be found not only in stone, but also in wooden buildings.

However, their installation in a wooden wall differs significantly from installation in stone structures. The reason for this is the significant shrinkage of the wood during the drying period.

In raw material, it can reach 6-8% (1.2-1.6 cm per 1 meter of log height).

Drying wood turns into a powerful press, which easily deforms the window block. The sashes do not open after such an impact, and the frame is strongly warped.

It turns out that high-quality installation of plastic windows in a wooden house is not possible - you ask? No, it is quite real, but only if special technology. We will consider it in our article.

How to put a plastic window in a wooden wall?

In order to eliminate the pressure of the wall on the window block, the craftsmen came up with special “sleds”, popularly called pigtails or casings. The idea of ​​​​this technology is very simple: a vertical ledge-comb is made with a chainsaw on the end part of the logs of the window opening.

A window carriage is put on it - wooden beam with a vertical groove cut into it. There is no rigid connection with screws or nails between the opening and the carriage. As a result, due to the sliding tongue-and-groove connection, we get a frame that moves freely along with the drying wall.

Thanks to this original solution the plastic window installed in the casing is not affected destructive forces log deformation.

The pigtail performs several important functions in a wooden wall:

• does not allow the logs to move from the vertical;
• does not interfere with the vertical shrinkage of the log house;
• reinforces the wall in the area of ​​the window opening.

And now let's take a closer look at how to install plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands using a casing.

Features of installing plastic windows in wooden walls

Cutting the ridge at the ends of the window opening must be taken very responsibly by marking it with a level. Any deviation from the vertical and the inaccuracies in the tongue-and-groove joint will adversely affect the operation of the pigtail, violating its free movement along the wall.

Having made ridge cutouts, you can begin to manufacture window carriages. These are wooden planed bars with a section of 150x100 mm. At their ends, it is necessary to make cutouts 5x5 cm in size for inserting horizontal jumpers (board 150x50 mm with two spikes at the ends).

When making a casing box, keep in mind that its assembled height should be less height window opening by 7-8 cm. If you make a pigtail without such a gap, then the upper crowns, when the wall shrinks, will put pressure on the box, deforming it.

In order to correctly insert a plastic window in a wooden house, you must adhere to the established experienced craftsmen sequence of operations.

First you need to overlay the crests of the window opening with tow and secure it with a stapler or small nails. This is necessary to insulate the joint and eliminate squeaks. After that, the lower jumper of the pigtail is laid in the window opening. Then gun carriages (side bars of the casing) are stuffed onto the ridges. A second jumper is inserted into the upper cutout of the carriage and lowered to a horizontal position. Having assembled the box, it must be carefully fastened with self-tapping screws so that they do not go into the ridges of the log house. Otherwise, the casing will not "work" because the screws will prevent it from sliding along the wall.

All the cracks remaining in the window opening after the installation of the pigtails are tightly clogged with tow. Further, according to the standard technology, a plastic window is installed with all related operations to ensure the protection of the junction area with the casing from moisture, heat loss and noise penetration.

The gap between the pigtail and the wall of the log house is filled with thin boards wrapped in rolled tow. As the walls shrink, they are knocked out one by one. To do this, the upper casing (it is attached only to the pigtail) is removed and, having removed the unnecessary “compensation” board, put it back in place.

The finishing of a plastic window in a wooden house is no different from the decorative sheathing of a conventional frame. It is highly desirable to order not standard white plastic windows, but covered with a special film that imitates the color and texture of natural wood. They will naturally look against the background of a chopped wall. Having completed the insulation and sealing of the joints, the window block with a pigtail from the inside and outside is sheathed with a wooden casing.

So far, we have talked about the installation of plastic window blocks in new log cabins.. But is such technology needed, if we are talking about the old wooden house?

Experienced craftsmen say that a pigtail is necessary here. The fact is that any log house, even after 5 years of shrinkage and shrinkage, does not stop changing its dimensions. Wood is a living porous material. Therefore, when it is raining outside, the log and timber swell. During the hot summer, the reverse process takes place and even an old hundred-year-old log house loses a few centimeters from its former “wet” height.

It should be noted that the old window box absolutely unsuitable for the role of a pigtail, since it cannot slide along the surface of the wall, compensating for its shrinkage.

Therefore, the owner has two options:

1. install plastic windows in a wooden house, reducing the size of existing openings by the width of the casing + gap for sealant;
2. keep the same window area, but increase the openings for mounting the pigtails by cutting through the walls.

Concluding our review, let's say that installing a plastic window in wooden wall is not a very complicated process. With a careful and attentive attitude to the matter, it can be done qualitatively on your own, without involving "expensive" masters from the side.

Addendum to the article

We sometimes receive additional questions that cannot always be answered within the comments. We will answer such questions further and give options for solving a specific problem.

Good afternoon
With the installation of a plastic window in a log house, it is clear, but how is a plastic window installed in a house on a pediment, in which an opening for a window is formed from a board 80x100mm?

This installation option is easy. Just before installation, it is advisable to attach an antiseptic rail 20x20 mm along the contour of your box (it will act as a quarter, protecting the polyurethane foam sealant from solar radiation). If you have already made a quarter in the board, then you don’t have to put a rail.

We put the plastic window on the gaskets (to create a gap into which the foam will be blown). After that, carefully go through the entire circuit with sealant. You can additionally fix the window in the opening using metal mounting plates. However, one foam will hold the window securely.

Did not retreat from the outer edge of the window block, and the house old window block stands on the level and somewhere in places a board of 50 mm goes out into the street, and now it is cold. What can be done?

The best option is to remove the window block and install it in the quarter-indented opening, as shown in the previous diagram.

A valid option is to make a thick board around the window block outside the wall so that quarters are obtained that cover the junction of the window block with the wall from blowing. Seal all leaks and gaps with foam or tow.