The reasons why the juniper turns yellow in the spring, and ways to solve the problem. Juniper diseases and their treatment with effective drugs Juniper dries out what to do
Junipers are evergreen shrubs or small trees cypress family. They are often grown in gardens and cottages, widely used in landscape design. However, sometimes problems arise during cultivation, due to which the plants lose their decorative effect. There are several common reasons why the juniper dries up and the needles turn yellow.
Description of culture
Plants are unpretentious in care, undemanding to soil and moisture. The most resistant types of junipers:
- Cossack;
- Virginia;
- Chinese;
- Siberian;
- ordinary.
Juniper
For your information! Indoor junipers, which are grown at home, rarely have problems. However, they can suffer from winter desiccation, summer - from sunburn.
Despite the seeming simplicity of growing, maintaining the health of plants is not so simple. Many varieties are prone to fungal diseases and react sharply to any adverse environmental changes.
A common question for beginner gardeners: the juniper dries up, what should I do? First you need to identify the cause, and then urgently take action.
Causes of yellowing
The main reasons why the juniper turns yellow are associated with improper care, pest invasion or disease.
Too little or too much moisture
Juniper is able to do without water for a long time, but once a month it still needs to be watered. With a lack of moisture, yellowness appears on the needles, the needles can dry out and crumble.
Important! IN summer period It is better to mulch the soil under the juniper to reduce the evaporation of moisture.
In summer, 25-30 liters of water are poured under one plant. In the heat, sprinkling is carried out once a week.
On a note! However, excess moisture is more detrimental to junipers. They begin to hurt, in the worst case, the root system rots, as a result of which the plant dies.
Causes of yellowing juniper
Diseases
Junipers are affected by many diseases. The most common include:
- Shutte disease is when the needles turn brown or dark yellow. After a while, it will dry out, but remain on the branches. The disease occurs when the crop grows in the shade or on too wet ground. This is the most common reason junipers turn yellow in summer. Damaged parts of the plant are subject to unconditional removal. They are burned to destroy the spores of the fungus;
- Rust. In spring, yellow-brown growths appear on the branches. Over time, juniper shoots deform and crack. If rust spots are found, the affected fragments are immediately removed and the plants are treated with fungicides, for example, topaz, folicur, foundationol.
- Drying of branches. There is yellowing of the needles and the death of the bark. The problem occurs on juniper bushes that are too densely planted. The affected areas are removed, the sections are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
- Nectrium and biotorell cancer. Branches, bark and needles turn brown and then die off. The disease is fought in the same way as with the drying of the branches. In case of severe damage, the shrub is uprooted and destroyed.
Important! Proper plant care reduces the risk of disease.
Juniper diseases
Incorrect soil composition
Juniper loses its decorative effect with increased or decreased acidity of the soil. The optimal indicator for most varieties is from 5 to 5.5. However, some species prefer acidic soil while others prefer alkaline soil. Specialty stores sell tests that allow you to control the pH level.
Note! Lime is used to reduce acidity, dolomite flour or compound preparations.
For planting juniper, it is better to use a soil mixture prepared from:
- sand;
- peat;
- a small amount of clay.
On the site, drainage from crushed bricks, river pebbles, and large expanded clay must be equipped.
Pests
Juniper can turn yellow under the influence of insects:
- juniper scab;
- spider mite;
- gall midges;
- juniper sawfly.
juniper pests
Interesting! Systemic insecticides will help to exterminate pests: actara, confidor, calypso. The drugs are used alternately so that the insects do not develop immunity.
Nutrient deficiency
Juniper actively signals a lack of useful elements:
- yellowing or whitening of the needles - iron deficiency;
- reddening of needles - lack of phosphorus;
- lag in development, pale color of the crown - lack of nitrogen.
If the problem is not addressed, the plant will continue to dry out and die.
Young junipers are fed annually, adults - 1 time in 2-3 years. The optimal time is spring.
Note! Falling needles inside the crown at the beginning of autumn is a normal phenomenon. New needles will grow in place of old needles next year - young and beautiful.
When the reason why the juniper dries is revealed, it will become clear what can be done to save it.
Disease prevention
Diseases are easier to prevent than to cure. To do this, when growing juniper, you need to follow the rules.
- Plant only healthy bushes. If there are doubts about the quality, then it is better to treat them with quadris or phytosporin preparations.
- The risk of diseases increases significantly if agricultural practices are not followed. You can not thicken plantings, place bushes on heavy soil with poor air circulation and stagnant water.
- After removing the juniper branches, the sections must be treated with garden pitch. Tools are pre-disinfected, otherwise the procedure will not be useful, but will only aggravate the situation.
Prevention of juniper diseases
- Preventive measures are carried out at the beginning and end of the season. Plants are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or its analogues.
- To increase the resistance of junipers, microfertilizers with an immunomodulatory effect are used.
Important! You need to regularly check the health of the bushes. When the first signs of malaise are detected, appropriate measures are taken immediately.
How to revive juniper
Juniper turned yellow, what to do in this case? First, the cause is eliminated, then a set of procedures is carried out using growth stimulants. They will help to quickly restore the crown:
- Juniper needles are sprayed with epin-extra (2 ml per 10 l of water).
- After 10 days, a solution of zircon is used (1 ml per 10 l). They cultivate the crown and abundantly water the soil in the near-trunk circle. You can additionally use the root stimulator to activate the roots. Procedures are carried out 2-3 times every 7 days.
- The final stage is the re-treatment of juniper needles with epin-extra.
Interesting! If the plant is badly damaged, the recovery course is repeated several more times. At the same time, the juniper is fed with mineral fertilizers, which help return the crown to its original state. To stimulate photosynthesis, ferovit is added to the working solution.
How to revive juniper
Juniper turned yellow after winter: causes and plant recovery
Why does juniper turn yellow and dry out after winter? This is a fairly common question. This is how sunburn occurs. The light is reflected from the snow cover, and the needles cannot withstand the radiation. The root system of the plant is frozen and does not provide moisture to the needles. As a result, they dry out. Therefore, in the spring, gardeners observe yellow bushes.
To help the juniper, you should:
- in regions with a harsh climate, plant frost-resistant varieties;
- mulch the near-trunk circle so that the root system does not freeze, for example, with peat or sawdust;
- young plants are covered with non-woven materials.
These measures do not exclude the occurrence of sunburn. To save the plant, which nevertheless suffered, a complex of restorative procedures is carried out with the help of growth stimulants.
Important! The crown of columnar varieties is tied up for the winter so that it does not “crumble” under the weight of snow.
What to do when the juniper dries depends on the cause. This may be improper care, disease or the influence of pests. To protect and restore plants, a set of measures is carried out, and during the growing season they constantly monitor its health.
Junipers - popular coniferous plants in landscape design.
The main advantage of these evergreens is in beautiful needles, a variety of shapes and colors, in a characteristic aroma, and resistance to adverse environmental factors.
But in order to get healthy and well-developed specimens, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the possible difficulties that may arise in their cultivation.
Junipers found in our culture are mostly hardy. However, some of them may suffer from spring burns. Such plants often come out of wintering with “burnt”, yellow needles, which crumble over time and reduce decorative effect. This is especially true of Chinese juniper and common juniper.
sunburn
The reason for this phenomenon is physiological shrinkage. In February - March, when the intensity of sunlight increases, the juniper crown, especially on the south side, becomes very hot, and active photosynthetic activity begins in it, which requires moisture.
Since during this period the roots cannot supply the plant with water due to the frozen ground, the intracellular fluid of the tissues is consumed. As a result of such physiological dryness, the needles begin to die off.
Junipers with vertical crowns are the most affected by physiological drying, especially varieties of Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis) - Stricta and Stricta Variegat (Stricta Variegat), and ordinary (Juniperus communis) - Hibernica (Hibernica), Meyeri (Meue) and Compress (Compressa). However, their horizontal forms, such as Repanda (Repanda), Prostrata (Prostrata), as well as other varieties of these species, can also burn.
Solution
- To prevent burning, junipers are shaded in February - March with spunbond, lutrasil or other material.
- You can also warm the soil under the plant by spilling it with warm water.
- Significant damage can cause junipers and heavy snowfalls. At low air temperatures in winter, the branches of junipers become brittle and easily break under the weight of snow, so it is recommended to tie vertical junipers for the winter, and shake off snow from horizontal ones, if possible.
juniper branches in the snow
yellowed needles on the sunny side
Significant harm to junipers is caused by diseases caused by different groups of pathogens. The most common and cause significant harm are the following diseases: rust, trachyomycosis, drying of branches and juniper shutte.
Rust
The causative agent of the disease is basidiomycetes. A very common disease of junipers is the "bloating" of branches and stems caused by rust fungi. The disease is manifested by the presence of bright orange growths on the branches.
Such a bright color of the mycelium of the fungus is due to the presence in it of drops of oil with a pigment close to carotene.
The disease can last for several years, while the plant not only loses decorative look, its branches also dry out, which can lead to death.
This pathogen is characterized by a complex development cycle, suggesting the presence of two hosts. On junipers there are such pathogens that have different additional hosts: Gymnosporangium mali-tremelloides (the second host is an apple tree; aecial stage), G.
juniperi (second host - mountain ash; aecial stage); G. amelanchieris (second host of irga; aecial stage); G. elavariiforme DC. (second host - hawthorn; aecial stage). The most common pathogen is Gymnosporangium sabinae, the second host of which is the pear.
Most often, it affects the Cossack and Virginian junipers and their varieties.
Most often, it affects the junipers Cossack and Virginsky and their varieties.
mushroom gymnosporangium sabinae on the trunk
mushroom gymnosporangium sabinae
The pear also suffers significantly from this disease, and it can be detected by the characteristic vyme-like growths on the leaves. The development of the disease occurs as follows. First, a fruit plant, such as a pear, is infected by air.
Orange spots form on its leaves, which in mid-summer turn into vyme-like outgrowths on the underside of the leaf, forming spores. These spores (eciospores) infect junipers in August - September. First, thickenings appear on the juniper branches at the points of penetration of spores, which then become covered with wounds.
And after two years, jelly-like orange or brownish outgrowths are already visible in them, basidiospores are formed in them, which are then transferred to the pear, infecting it and causing significant harm to it.
Control measures
When there are obvious signs of a rust disease on the branches of the juniper, that is, when the organs of sporulation appear, it is no longer amenable to treatment. Sick branches must be cut and destroyed, and the remaining branches must be carefully treated with fungicides.
When pruning, be sure to disinfect the secateurs in alcohol, as the use of a non-sterile tool contributes to the spread of the disease. Treatment of diseases caused by rust fungi is primarily preventive in nature.
Sick branches must be cut and destroyed, and the remaining branches must be carefully treated with fungicides.
In the spring, in the foci of the disease, all plants should be prophylactically treated several times with fungicides. Ridomil Gold MC, a combined preparation of contact-systemic action, has proven itself well.
Tilt and Skor, Bayleton, Vectra have a good therapeutic and prophylactic effect. The consumption rates of fungicides when treating junipers for diseases should be increased at least twice as compared to those indicated in the instructions.
It should not be forgotten that the treatment requires a change of drugs.
Tracheomycosis, or tracheomycosis wilt
Quite widespread among the most various plants and is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium.
On junipers, especially in wet years and in places with overcompacted soil, where stagnant water is observed, the disease caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum, which lives in the soil, appears. Infection occurs through the root system.
The roots turn brown, then light grayish spores appear on them. The mycelium then grows into vascular system branches and trunk, where it clogs the conductive bundles, as a result of which there is a violation of the transfer of nutrients, and the plant dies.
Drying usually occurs starting from the apical shoots, on which the needles acquire a reddish tint. Spreading throughout the plant, the fungus first leads to the drying of individual branches, and then the entire plant.
Fusarium oxysporum infection result
Most often tracheomycosis suffers from virgin and medium junipers - varieties of Pfitzeriana Aurea and Pfitzeriana Gold Star (Juniperus media Pfitzeriana Aurea and Pfitzeriana Gold Star), sometimes Cossack and its varieties.
Control measures
- If drying branches are found, they should be removed, and the plant and the soil under them should be carefully treated with fungicides, since the infection long time can be stored both in the plant and in the soil. Most often, the disease is transmitted with planting material or when plants are planted in infected soil. It should be noted that the soil at the site of the removed dead plant must be disinfected, and it is best to change it, since not all pathogens are easy to destroy.
- If the plant was bought in a dubious place, the coma should be disinfected by spilling it with drugs such as Quadris, Maxim or Fitosporin.
- For small plant with open root system good results for decontamination gives soaking the roots in a solution of the drug Maxim for 2-3 hours.
Drying of juniper branches
Drying of juniper branches is a serious disease that often leads not only to the loss of decorativeness, but also to the death of the plant. The causative agents of the disease are whole line pathogenic fungi that can only be determined by inoculation in pure cultures.
These are Cytospora pini, Diplodia juniperi, Hendersonia notha, Phoma juniperi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Rhabdospora sabinae, Pythium cupressina. Signs of infection appear in the spring, when yellowing and falling of needles on plants are observed.
First, small branches begin to dry out, then the affected area increases and can capture the entire plant. Later, numerous small dark-colored fruiting bodies of fungi appear between the scales and on the bark. The infection persists in the affected branches, needles, as well as their remains.
The spread of this infection, like most diseases, is facilitated by planting on heavy soils, poor air permeability of soils and dense plantings.
The spread of this infection, like most diseases, is facilitated by planting on heavy soils, poor air permeability of soils and dense plantings.
drying of the branches of the juniper Blue Star
drying juniper Skyrocket
Almost all types and varieties of junipers can be exposed to the disease caused by these fungi.
According to observations, rocky juniper, especially Skyrocket, as well as scaly, suffers significantly from the drying of branches.
Of these, Blue Star is especially susceptible to disease, it is ill much more often and more intensively than the Blue Carpet variety close to it, which can also suffer.
Control measures
Small affected branches that have appeared should be cut out, since the infection persists on the bark and needles of diseased shoots, and the entire plant should be treated with fungicides. But if the affected area is very large, it is better to destroy the plant completely.
Shutte brown
A common disease of juniper, especially ordinary and its varieties. The name of the disease comes from the German word schutten (to crumble), the disease manifests itself in a change in color, dying off and falling off of the needles.
Symptoms of the disease appear in early summer, when last year's needles become brown-brown. On these needles at the end of August, characteristic black, up to 1.5 mm, rounded or elliptical fruiting bodies (apothecia) appear - sporulation of the pathogen.
The disease develops most intensively in shaded plants growing in wet places, as well as on weakened plants.
brown schütte (fruit bodies)
Control measures. Be sure to remove fallen diseased needles and cut dried branches in a timely manner. For prevention, treat with fungicides in spring, in mid-April, and in autumn, before frost.
Good results in both prevention and treatment were shown by the drug Quadris, which inhibits the germination of spores and affects the germinating hyphae of fungi, as well as the drugs Strobi, Skor, Ridomil Gold MC.
Source: https://www.greenmarket.com.ua/blog/zaschita-rasteniy/mozhzhevelnik/
Juniper diseases
It would seem that juniper is one of the most problem-free conifers in the garden, but it turns out that it also has its own ailments. Sometimes, especially after winter, you can see a branch with brown needles on the juniper. And this means that the juniper is sick. The dying off of branches, yellow or brown needles can be the result of several juniper diseases.
Biotorella cancer of juniper branches
At Biotorella crayfish on the bark of the affected branch, you can see a deep ulcer, which causes the drying of a separate juniper branch.
The causative agent of the disease is the pathogenic fungus Biatorella difformis (Fr.) Rehm., the conidial stage of the fungus Biatoridina pinasti Gol. et Sch.
With mechanical damage to the branch or bark of the juniper, pathogenic fungi enter the wound and begin to develop there. Some cause necrosis of the bark, the latter are causative agents of stem rot.
Once on the damaged area, the fungi spread in the tissues of the bark. The bark begins to turn brown, die off. A deep ulcer forms in the damaged area, in which black fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed.
The dying off of the bark on a branch leads to the fact that all the needles on it turn yellow and dry out. Biotorell cancer also affects other conifers.
Measures to combat biotorella juniper cancer
Dried juniper branches should be cut to healthy tissue, treat all wounds and cuts with a solution of copper sulphate, a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (substitutes can be used - HOM, Abiga-Peak). Affected branches must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the fungus.
For prevention: in case of mechanical damage to the bark or pruning of juniper branches, immediately cover all cuts and wounds with garden pitch. Every spring, after the snow melts, and every autumn, treat the juniper with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes, if necessary, the same treatment is carried out in the summer.
Nektriosis, or necrosis of the bark of juniper branches
This disease is also considered cancerous. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Nectria cucurbitula (Tode) Fr., the conidial stage of the fungus Zythia cucurbitula Sacc.
With mechanical damage to the bark on the branch of the juniper, brick-red fruiting bodies are formed at the site of the lesion, sporulation up to 2 mm in diameter, over time they turn black and dry. The affected branch turns yellow and gradually dries out. The mycelium is preserved in the bark of the affected branches and plant debris.
Control measures with necrosis of the bark of juniper branches are the same as with biotorella cancer.
Drying of juniper branches
The causative agents of branch drying are several fungi: Cytospora pini Desm., Diplodia juniperi West., Hendersonia notha Sacc. et Br., Phoma juniperi (Desm.) Sacc., Phomopsis juniperovjra Haahn., Rhabdospora sabinae Sacc. et Fautr.
With mechanical damage to the branch, the fungus penetrates into the tissues of the bark. The bark dies, the needles turn yellow and fall off. At the site of the lesion of the branch, one can observe the formation of black fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus. The spread of the disease is facilitated by a dense planting.
Control measures with the drying of juniper branches are the same as with biotorella cancer.
juniper rust
In spring, on the branches and needles of juniper one can see convex yellow-brown gelatinous round formations - sporulation of the rust fungus Gymnosporangium confusum Plowr., Gymnosporangium Juniperinum Mart., Gymnosporangium sabinae (Disks.) Wint.
Juniper branches at the site of rust damage thicken over time, deform and crack.
In early autumn, orange pustules darken, the wintering stage of the fungus develops. The rust fungus overwinters not only in the affected juniper bark, but also on other plants and plant debris.
Juniper Rust Control Measures
At the first detection of rusty spots, it is necessary to immediately remove the affected juniper needles and treat them with fungicide preparations with contact and systemic activity, such as Topaz, Ordan, Folicur, Falcon, Fundazol. All affected plant debris must be destroyed.
As a preventive measure in early spring and autumn, spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid, iron or blue vitriol.
In autumn, plant debris and fallen leaves should be removed from the garden, as pathogens of not only rust, but also other diseases can overwinter on them.
Shutte juniper
Schutte causes browning and drying of juniper needles. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Lophodermium juniperinum (Fr.) deNot.
In the spring, in the month of May, on last year's juniper shoots, the needles suddenly turn brown, but do not crumble for a long time. A black coating appears on the brown needles - this is the formation of black shiny fruiting bodies of the pathogen fungus.
At risk are weakened plants, as well as those planted in the shade. Schutte develops very quickly in conditions high humidity and can lead to the death of juniper. The harmfulness of juniper shutte increases several times with prolonged melting of high snow cover. The infection persists in plant debris.
Control measures with juniper shutte are the same as with biotorella crayfish.
Shutte brown
Another name for brown schütte is brown coniferous snow mold. Snow mold can also be observed after the snow melts on other plants, for example, on lawn grass.
In the spring, after liberation from under the snow, on the branches of the juniper you can see yellow or brown needles, entangled in grayish snow mold- cobweb mycelium. Over time, the mold becomes black-brown, thickens and, as it were, glues the needles together.
On the affected needles, small black fruiting bodies of the fungus Herpotrichia nigra Karst are formed. Juniper needles turn brown, dry out, and do not crumble for a long time. Thin branches die. The mushroom picker is preserved in needles and plant debris.
Shutte brown spreads more strongly in conditions of high humidity, with a strong density of plantings. Young and weakened plants are most susceptible to disease.
Control measures with Shutte brown are the same as with biotorella crayfish.
juniper Alternariosis
Alternariosis causes drying of needles and juniper branches. Alternariosis is caused by the fungus Alternaria tenuis Nees. A velvety black coating forms on the brown needles and branches affected by Alternaria. The needles fall off, the branches become bare, dry up.
Alternariosis often manifests itself when the plantings are thickened on the branches. lower tier. The pathogen persists in the needles and bark of juniper branches, plant debris (not only conifers, Alternariosis affects and vegetable crops e.g. cabbage, potatoes).
Control measures with juniper Alternariosis are the same as with biotorella cancer.
Fusarium juniper
Fusarium wilt is caused by Fusarium oxysporum and Fusarium sambucinum. Mushroom through mechanical damage on the bark penetrates into the vascular system of the plant, clog it, causing the death of the roots of juniper.
The access of nutrients to the aerial part of the plant is stopped. The needles, starting from the upper branches, turn yellow, redden and fall off, the plants gradually completely dry out.
On the affected areas of the juniper, especially on the roots and basal part, in conditions of high humidity, you can see a grayish-white sporulation of the fungus.
Young and weakened plants are most susceptible to Fusarium wilt. Fusarium persists in plant debris. Infection can also occur through planting material or infected soil. Heavy clay soil, insufficient lighting, low-lying areas with stagnation of thawed and Wastewater, high level occurrence groundwater also provoke the development of fusarium.
Control measures with fusarium wilt of juniper: compliance with agricultural technology, the basic requirements for planting juniper.
At the first symptoms of wilting and root rot of juniper, the soil under the plant is shed with a solution of a fungicide preparation: Fitosporin-resuscitator, Fitosporin M, Fundazol, Alirin-B, copper sulphate, copper oxychloride, 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
In order to prevent spring and autumn, they are sprayed with copper sulphate or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. At the first sign of fusarium or tracheomycosis, all dried plants, along with the roots, should be removed from the site with the complete destruction of all plant residues.
Before planting new plants with an open root system, their roots are treated in a solution of the fungicide Fundazol, Maxim, Fitosporin, etc. Seedlings with a closed root system after planting are shed with a solution of the same fungicides.
Sometimes, in spring, juniper stands with red needles, especially with south side. It's not an infection, but sunburn.
In winter, in January-February, when sunny days come, from the dazzling white snow, the sun, hard frost the needles quickly lose moisture, and there is no way to replenish it - the root system is in the frozen ground. To avoid this, you need to prepare conifers for winter in the fall.
Cover the root system in a timely manner with a thick layer of dry foliage, humus, sand, this will insulate the root system and help the juniper cope with dry frost. Also, from autumn, juniper should be wrapped with burlap or agrospan to shade the crown from the bright winter sun.
Juniper has many diseases, and sometimes they can only be dealt with in the laboratory of the Quarantine Service.
But we can reduce the risk of developing juniper diseases by the most simple measures: avoid crowded plantings, ensure good ventilation already growing plants, do not plant juniper in strong shading, in low-lying places with stagnant water.
When pruning branches, always use a garden pitch to prevent the mycelium from getting on a fresh cut, to deal with pests that carry the infection in time.
Every spring and autumn, it is recommended to carry out preventive spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol not only for conifers, but also for all plants in the garden: fruit trees and shrubs, grapes, roses, hydrangeas and other perennial ornamental plants. It must always be remembered that pathogens can persist not only on junipers, but also on other plants, even weeds. Therefore, it is recommended to remove all plant debris from the beds and flower beds in autumn and spring.
Image source: cd.intelico.info, nhm2.uio.no, taxondiversity.fieldofscience.com, ascofrance.fr, uconnladybug.wordpress.com, forum.biodiv.petnica.rs, http://www.invasive.org, wiki .bugwood.org, flowerf.ru, dendromir.ru, www.green-soul.ru, flickr.com: Doug Waylett, Sheran, J Brew, Alan Cressler
Source: http://FloweryVale.ru/garden-plants/disease-juniper.html
Juniper propagation by cuttings in autumn: methods, diseases and pests
Propagation of juniper by cuttings in the fall is quite possible and to some extent, even better than in the generally accepted terms - the end of spring, the beginning of summer. It often happens that in May-June a hot, dry period sets in, the survival rate of cuttings will be much worse than on fine autumn days.
Methods and subtleties of reproduction
Varietal junipers are best propagated by cuttings, as when seed method often maternal qualities are not repeated (for example, like a thuja).
Reproduction by cuttings of juniper in the fall does not differ from spring and summer. For cuttings, semi-lignified shoots are cut about 10-15 cm long.
It is advisable to take them from young plants from the middle and upper parts of the crown, from the growth of the current year.
For the appearance of roots in planting material, age is important. mother plant. The younger, the greater the percentage of rooting. It is better not to cut the cuttings, but to break them.
Separate them from mother bush so that a piece of bark remains (the so-called heel). The tips of the cuttings are cleaned of needles and immersed in a weak solution of manganese for 20 minutes. You can also treat with root. Then planting material is buried in the ground by no more than 7 cm. The soil must be loose and permeable.
To preserve moisture, cuttings are best planted in a greenhouse or covered with a bottle. I like to plant under a bottle in secluded corners of the garden - it's convenient.
Monitor moisture in autumn period it’s not particularly necessary, because there is no heat anymore, and the soil will not dry out much.
This year, the cutting, of course, will not take root, it will only become overgrown with callus, but next year it will grow the root system much earlier. What a juniper rooted from a cutting looks like can be seen in the photo.
There is another way to propagate juniper cuttings - at home. But this is the case if your window sills are not occupied by indoor flowers.
The principle of reproduction is the same, but it is necessary to plant in prepared containers. To preserve moisture, the pots are placed in dense, transparent, plastic bags without closing the upper part, in order to avoid rotting of the cuttings. On average, the rooting process at home takes 1.5 months.
What are the types of juniper, photos and names can be viewed here.
What should be the planting material, how to properly plant and grow a plant
In general, all junipers are unpretentious, hardy and in most cases do not impose special requirements on the soil.
When planting seedlings, it is necessary to make drainage at the bottom of the pit, compact the soil well and do not forget about watering until the plants take root.
All conifers respond well to sprinkling during the dry season (for example, as an ornamental spruce).
It is necessary to plant the plant carefully so as not to disturb the root ball. If you have to buy planting material, then it is better that it be with a closed root system.
You can transfer at any time. But when purchasing juniper in a container, it is important to pay attention to the root system and the condition of the substrate.
If the substrate is loose and the roots do not peep out of the holes in the container, then the plant has recently been transplanted and there is no guarantee that it will take root well.
When wondering where to buy juniper, one should give preference to specialized stores or garden centers. How not to be deceived at a flower fair, read our article.
Like all coniferous plants, they need to be fed. Unlike deciduous trees, they do not require a lot of fertilizer, because they do not shed their leaves for the winter and in the spring it does not take much effort to build up a green mass.
You can feed with special balanced fertilizers for conifers. that are sold in stores. If there are no special fertilizers, you can use nitroammofoska. Doing so better in spring before the start of the growing season
Dangerous diseases and pests, their signs and effective methods of control
In order for the plant to look healthy and well developed, it is necessary to take care not only of feeding.
Unfortunately, junipers suffer from diseases and pests. Rust is one of the most common diseases. The causative agent is rust fungi.
The first signs of the disease- swelling of some parts of the branches and the presence of orange growths on them.
The affected plant loses its decorative effect, dries out and can completely die.
Control measures- treatment with fungicides: Fundazol, Ridomil Gold.
Also widespread is a disease such as trachomycosis. It manifests itself most often in wet weather in places with heavy soil and stagnant moisture.
Signs of the disease- reddening of the apical shoots with further spread throughout the plant. The cause of wilting is the root system affected by trachymosis.
As a result, the roots of the infected plant turn brown, and the disease spreads to the vascular system of the trunk and branches.
If a disease is detected, the affected parts must be removed and burned, and the plant and the soil around it should be treated with the following preparations: Maxim, Fundazol, Quadris.
Still, almost all types of junipers are prone to a very serious disease - drying of branches.
Symptoms of the disease appear in the spring. First, the needles turn yellow and fall off, then small branches dry out, spreading throughout the plant.
Control measures- removal of infected areas and treatment with preparations: Skor, Ridomil Gold MC, Tilt.
In addition to diseases, juniper can be damaged by the following pests:
- spider mite;
- juniper codling moth;
- caterpillar of a cypress fat body;
- juniper sawfly.
The first signs of pest damage- browning, drying and falling of needles.
Pest Control Measures- processing by actelik, decis, actara. In case of severe damage, dried branches are cut and burned, and the saw cuts are covered with oil paint.
ABOUT useful properties and the use of juniper can be found in the previous article.
The benefits of juniper are undeniable, its berries are a storehouse useful substances but must be used with caution. Uncontrolled intake of decoctions and tinctures of juniper fruits can bring not good, but harm.
Not everyone knows about what juniper diseases and their treatment are. But, in order to achieve the desired result, and return the plant to an attractive appearance, it is necessary to learn to recognize diseases and take action at the first symptoms.
Common juniper diseases and their treatment
Growing up on suburban area coniferous plants, you must be able to provide needed help when problems are found.
Fusarium juniper
The causative agents of the disease are soil fungi that can cause root rot. When it enters the root system, the mycelium blocks the access of nutrients. If nothing is done, then a short time the upper part of the shoots will begin to fade, turn yellow, and the needles fall off.
Most of all, young twigs are affected by fusarium.
The infection persists for a long period of time. The main place of her stay is the soil and the affected stems.
Favorable environment for fusarium are:
- loamy soil;
- excess moisture;
- lack of light.
To get rid of this problem, it is necessary to carry out culling in a timely manner. Also, at the first symptoms of the disease, it is recommended to remove the affected plants along with the root system.
As a preventive measure, young plants are treated with Baktofit before planting. Also use a drug called Vitarox. When the first signs of the disease appear, the soil around the plant should be watered with Fitosporin solution. Plants are also treated with Fundazol.
Drying of shoots
The causative agents are some types of fungi. When they appear, the bark begins to dry out. Brown growths appear on its surface, the branches turn yellow, and the needles crumble. The infection that leads to this problem is stored in the affected bark, branches and unharvested shoot residues.
To prevent such a problem, it is necessary to use only high-quality planting material. It is also recommended to carry out the correct and timely pruning of shoots. In order to prevent the development of infection, all affected areas and sections should be treated with 1%, and a layer of oil paint should be applied on top.
In early spring and late autumn, juniper is sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. If the disease is running, then the procedure is repeated.
juniper Alternariosis
A sign of the disease is brown needles and a pronounced dark coating on the shoots. If the disease is not treated with anything, then over time the branches will begin to fade. The reason for the appearance of alternariosis is the thickening of the plantings.
Alternariosis appears only on the lower branches.
The infection persists in the affected areas and unharvested leaves. Struggling with alternariosis in the same way as with withering shoots.
Shutte juniper
This disease has another name - brown gray mold. Its causative agents are fungi that begin to infect shoots at a temperature of +0.5 o C.
Schutte infects plants only under snow.
Symptoms of the disease are branches that have a brown or yellowish tint. The needles also change their color and stick together with a grayish web.
With a shutte, despite the fact that the needles acquire a reddish tint, they do not crumble. But thin twigs dry out pretty quickly. They are the first to be affected by this disease.
This problem is often caused by high soil moisture, as well as dense plantings. You can prevent development by timely pruning of dry shoots. It is also recommended to spray the plant with Bordeaux mixture twice a year.
juniper rust
This is the most common juniper disease. Mushrooms that lead to this problem germinate on needles, twigs, cones. Such growths have thickenings and a bright shade. Blisters and swells appear on the trunk or at the root collar. Because of them, the bark dries out, and shallow wounds form on the surface.
In early spring, when the snow has not yet melted, growths of a dark brown hue form. They are often referred to as telioja. After rain or heavy fog, they become soft and swell, covered with mucus on top. It is in them that spores are formed that are able to germinate and be carried by the wind.
If no action is taken, then the branches dry out rather quickly, the needles change their color to brown and crumble. The infection overwinters on the bark. It can also infect quince and apple trees. Fight rust by removing affected branches. Periodic spraying with Bordeaux mixture is also recommended.
Cortical necrosis
You can determine the disease by the presence of the so-called pads, which have a brick-red tint. Outgrowths grow up to 2 mm in width. After a few days, they begin to darken and dry out. Bark necrosis can also affect the root system. The roots are affected and dry out over time. Similar is observed with twigs and needles. The infection persists in diseased branches, plant debris. Fight necrosis as well as wilting branches.
Biotorell cancer
The causative agent of this disease is the fungus biatorella diformik.
Signs of the disease:
- Drying of branches.
- Cracking of the bark and the appearance of ulcers in the wood.
- The wood turns brown and begins to rot.
Pathogenic microorganisms appear in places where the bark is cracked or mechanically damaged. The fungus develops in the tissues, after which the bark becomes brown and dries out after a while. Such lesions lead to the fact that the needles and twigs begin to turn yellow and dry out.
In order to prevent such a problem, it is necessary to follow all the rules and recommendations of agricultural technology. It is also recommended to use high-quality seedlings, because they carry a similar infection.
But, if, nevertheless, signs of the disease appear on the plant, it is necessary to remove the affected shoots as soon as possible. Spray all cuts and deformed areas with a weak solution of copper sulfate. Coat the treated branches and trunk with paint or drying oil. In the first month of spring and in October, it is recommended to carry out prophylaxis with a Bordeaux mixture. Instead of this drug, you can use Hom or Abiga-peak.
juniper pests
Natural disasters contribute to the appearance in the garden of a large number of various insects that damage plants.
Angled Moth
This is a butterfly that is distinguished by a purple-gray hue. Its wingspan is within 30 mm. On their outer edge there is a small notch. On the front wings there are three, and on the back two lines.
Caterpillars are up to 30 mm long. They are green with a brownish head. There are dark green stripes on the surface. Caterpillars grow up to 30 cm long. Brown pupa. Its length is about 11 mm. They overwinter in the soil or dry grass.
Both caterpillars and butterflies feed on needles and juniper twigs. It is not difficult to deal with the ugly-winged moth. To do this, annually in May, it is necessary to spray the plant with Fufanon, or Decis Profi. If the branches are badly damaged, then all dry shoots are cut and removed, as far as possible from the place where the juniper grows.
Juniper scale insect
This is an insect that has small size. The female is elongated. It reaches 2 mm in length, brown. The larvae appear in the first part of June.
The juniper scale insect feeds on needles and cones. It also affects pines, arborvitae and cypress.
In the case when the plant is badly damaged, the needles turn brown, and the branches begin to dry. If nothing is done, then the plant will dry out in a fairly short time. You can fight this pest with the help of actellik, fufanon.
At proper fit and care, juniper will always have a healthy appearance. But if, nevertheless, the plant begins to wither and lose its needles, then simple measures will help get rid of diseases.
Treatment of brown juniper needles - video
Juniper - evergreen, which belongs to the Cypress family. Another name for it is Veres. Most varieties are winter-hardy, tolerate drought and are undemanding to soils. However, juniper is not an unpretentious plant: due to its characteristics, it is quite capricious, requires special care and growing conditions. One of the reasons for the yellowing of the needles after the winter may be improper care. Periodic inspection will help to avoid problems, preventive measures, loosening the earth and shelter from the spring scorching sun.
- physiological factors (spring sunburn);
- sucking and needle-eating pests;
- illness.
- 1. Shading the plant in February-March with burlap or other covering material.
- 2. Warming up the soil by pouring it with warm water.
- sucking (juniper aphid, spruce spider mite, rounded shields, galls);
- needle-eating (juniper sawfly, pine moth, shoot moth caterpillars).
- 1. Wash the branches with soap or cold water. If soapy water is used, then the soil of the root zone should be covered.
- 2. Cut off shoots with pest colonies.
- 3. Repeat the procedure for washing the branches after 6-10 days
- 1. Cut and burn branches with galls.
- 2. Treat with insecticides
- 1. Periodically dig trunk circles and destroy pest nests.
- 2. Spray the plant with karbofos or infusion of plants with insecticidal action
- 1. Dig up the trunk circles.
- 2. In early spring and when young shoots appear, spray the plants with enteric-contact insecticides
- 1. Collect and destroy spider nests.
- 2. Treat the shrub with insecticides for oil based
- shutte;
- rust;
- Biotorellic: cracking of the bark and a change in its color, then - the formation of longitudinal ulcers and the death of the bark.
- Nectric: the appearance of brick-red pads up to 2 mm in diameter on the trunk, which subsequently darken and dry out.
Show all
Causes of yellowing needles
The reasons for the drying of Veres needles can be:
Despite winter hardiness, the plant suffers from spring burns, so by spring it looks painful and has "burnt" needles, which subsequently crumble. At the same time, the decorativeness of the bush is reduced. Common and Chinese juniper varieties are especially often susceptible to this phenomenon.
In most regions, the intensity of solar activity increases from February to March. In the needles (especially on the south side), photosynthesis begins. At the same time, the plant needs a certain amount of moisture, but during this period the frozen soil is not yet ready to provide the plants with it in sufficient quantities. Intracellular fluid is involved in the process of photosynthesis, as a result, the needles dry and turn yellow. This phenomenon is called physiological dryness.
There are two ways to solve the problem:
Shelter for the winter of conifers
Juniper suffers from the weight of the snow cover. In frosty time, under the weight of snow, the branches become brittle, which subsequently also causes dry needles. To avoid yellowing, it is necessary to tie vertical varieties for the winter, and periodically shake off snow from horizontal ones.
It is not recommended to use materials such as lutrasil, agrotherm or spunbond to shelter conifers for the winter. They miss Sun rays and accumulate moisture, which leads to yellowing of the needles due to frost and sunburn.
Pests and control methods
Juniper is able to repel insects thanks to the phytoncides with which it saturates the air. However, young shoots and cones of the plant suffer from the invasion of pests. The following pests are dangerous for Veres:
In addition, pests always choose diseased and weakened plants. Therefore, it is important to carry out proper care and timely fertilization.
Control measures are presented in the table:
| Pest | What harm does | How to fight |
juniper aphid  | There is a slowdown in the growth of young plants and drying out of the leaves: they turn yellow and begin to curl, as the aphids suck out the juice | The spread of aphids is facilitated by ants that "graze" aphids. But dTo protect the plant, ants should not be allowed to spread. To combat aphids, you need: |
spider mite  | The needles turn yellow, they appear on it brown spots and thin web. Then the needles darken and crumble | For prevention, it is necessary optimal humidity. Juniper should be periodically sprayed with water to maintain its level. If cobwebs appear on the branches, treatment with colloidal sulfur or infusions of garlic and dandelion should be applied. |
Shchitovka  | The needles turn yellow and crumble in early summer. The bark dies, the shoots dry out and bend, the number of annual growths decreases | In early spring, install traps for larvae in the form of a cuff on the juniper stalk, on which caterpillar glue should be applied. Cuffs can be made from straw, burlap and packing cardboard. If the larvae nevertheless penetrated the branches, you need to carefully clean them off with a knife or a toothbrush. In cases where a large number of insects are noted, it will be necessary to apply insecticides |
gall midges  | The bark cracks and the needles turn yellow, as the larvae are able to eat heather | |
juniper sawfly  | Needles and shoots are damaged, as the larvae (false caterpillars) eat away internal tissues | Sawfly larvae live in the soil. To combat its spread, you need: |
Pine moth  | The bush loses its strength and splendor, as sawflies, known for their voracity, feed on needles and young shoots. | The appearance of purple butterflies over juniper bushes requires immediate measures to combat them. If nothing is done, then soon caterpillars with a dark red head will appear on the branches of the plant. In autumn they go into the soil. To fight moth you need: |
Moth caterpillars  | Juniper does not grow well, the leaves turn yellow, as the caterpillars eat away young shoots |
Diseases and treatment
A change in the color of the needles is noted when the veres is affected by various diseases. Yellowing of the juniper and drying of the leaves is observed in the following diseases:
Schutte
Shutte disease
The name of the disease comes from the German word "schutten" - "to crumble". The causative agent is a fungus. The first sign of the disease is the yellowing of the needles, which is replaced by death and falling off. In early summer, characteristic round black spores appear on the leaves. In advanced cases, the needles become yellow-brown. Schutte disease affects weakened plants growing on soils with high humidity.
Affected needles must be removed and burned. Fungicides are used to control the disease. For prevention, spraying is carried out in spring and autumn.
Rust
juniper rust
Rust is another common fungal infection of juniper. It is caused by basidiomycetes. Bright yellow growths appear on the needles. The disease is noticeable only in the second year of reproduction of pathogenic fungi. Spores of the pathogen spread with the help of the wind: they fall on the foliage of apple trees, mountain ash, hawthorn and pears, and barely noticeable tubercles form on the leaves. After maturation, the spores spill out and fall on coniferous plants.
For effective treatment you will need to remove one of the affected neighbor trees. Diseased branches of veres need to be cut off, and the plant should be treated with immunostimulants. To prevent rust, it is not recommended to plant juniper near deciduous plants(apple, pear, rowan, etc.).
drying of branches affected by the fungus
In addition, the cause of the drying of juniper branches is often fungal diseases, which are activated in the spring. Characteristic features diseases are yellowing of needles, shedding and the appearance of small dark spores on the bark after winter. The fight against the disease consists in cutting off the affected branches and part of the bark. The cut sites are treated with copper sulfate, the plant is sprayed with fungicides. For prevention, spraying can be carried out in early spring and autumn.
The following composition effectively fights fungal diseases: 1 ampoule of epin and zircon per 5 liters of water. This tool can be sprayed plants with an interval of several days.
Cancer diseases
Nektrium or biotorella cancer can lead to the death of the plant. Pathogen - mushrooms that are introduced into the bark of juniper. Signs of cancer:
Biotorell cancer
nectrium cancer
With cancer, the foliage dries up and dies. The cause of nectrium cancer is thickened plantings, and biotorella cancer is mechanical damage to the branches. If the disease has affected more than half of the plant, then it will have to be destroyed, and the place must be disinfected.
Treatment of cancerous lesions consists in removing the affected areas and treating them with Vector, Scor or Tilt. For prevention, spraying should be carried out twice a year. Bordeaux mixture or phytosporin.
Errors during landing and care
The cause of yellowing of the needles can be not only pathogenic lesions and pests, but also violations of the rules of planting and care. The most common mistake gardeners make is the wrong choice of planting site and soil. Juniper prefers partial shade, you should not choose sunny places for it.
It happens that the juniper turned yellow due to the drying of the roots. To avoid this, in landing pit you can build a so-called drainage: put a few stones on the bottom and fill it with a peat mixture with sand and clay.
If the veres turns yellow due to the high moisture content in the soil, the plant must be transplanted to another place, having previously treated the healthy roots with Kornevin. Rotten roots should be removed. Drying and excessive moisture of the roots should not be allowed.
It would seem that juniper is one of the most problem-free conifers in the garden, but it turns out that it also has its own ailments. Sometimes, especially after winter, you can see a branch with brown needles on the juniper. And this means that the juniper is sick. The dying off of branches, yellow or brown needles can be the result of several juniper diseases.
Biotorella cancer of juniper branches
At Biotorella crayfish on the bark of the affected branch, you can see a deep ulcer, which causes the drying of a separate juniper branch.
The causative agent of the disease is the pathogenic fungus Biatorella difformis (Fr.) Rehm., the conidial stage of the fungus Biatoridina pinasti Gol. et Sch.
With mechanical damage to the branch or bark of the juniper, pathogenic fungi enter the wound and begin to develop there. Some cause necrosis of the bark, the latter are causative agents of stem rot.
Once on the damaged area, the fungi spread in the tissues of the bark. The bark begins to turn brown, die off. A deep ulcer forms in the damaged area, in which black fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed.
The dying off of the bark on a branch leads to the fact that all the needles on it turn yellow and dry out. Biotorell cancer also affects other conifers.
Measures to combat biotorella juniper cancer
Dried juniper branches should be cut to healthy tissue, treat all wounds and cuts with a solution of copper sulphate, a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (substitutes can be used - HOM, Abiga-Peak). Affected branches must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the fungus.
For prevention: in case of mechanical damage to the bark or pruning of juniper branches, immediately cover all cuts and wounds with garden pitch. Every spring, after the snow melts, and every autumn, treat the juniper with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes, if necessary, the same treatment is carried out in the summer.
Nektriosis, or necrosis of the bark of juniper branches
This disease is also considered cancerous. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Nectria cucurbitula (Tode) Fr., the conidial stage of the fungus Zythia cucurbitula Sacc.
With mechanical damage to the bark on the branch of the juniper, brick-red fruiting bodies are formed at the site of the lesion, sporulation up to 2 mm in diameter, over time they turn black and dry. The affected branch turns yellow and gradually dries out. The mycelium is preserved in the bark of the affected branches and plant debris.
Control measures with necrosis of the bark of juniper branches are the same as with biotorella cancer.
The causative agents of branch drying are several fungi: Cytospora pini Desm., Diplodia juniperi West., Hendersonia notha Sacc. et Br., Phoma juniperi (Desm.) Sacc., Phomopsis juniperovjra Haahn., Rhabdospora sabinae Sacc. et Fautr.
With mechanical damage to the branch, the fungus penetrates into the tissues of the bark. The bark dies, the needles turn yellow and fall off. At the site of the lesion of the branch, one can observe the formation of black fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus. The spread of the disease is facilitated by a dense planting.
Control measures with the drying of juniper branches are the same as with biotorella cancer.
In spring, on the branches and needles of juniper, you can see convex yellow-brown gelatinous rounded formations - sporulation of the rust fungus Gymnosporangium confusum Plowr., Gymnosporangium Juniperinum Mart., Gymnosporangium sabinae (Disks.) Wint.
Juniper branches at the site of rust damage thicken over time, deform and crack.
In early autumn, orange pustules darken, the wintering stage of the fungus develops. The rust fungus overwinters not only in the affected juniper bark, but also on other plants and plant debris.
Juniper Rust Control Measures
At the first detection of rusty spots, it is necessary to immediately remove the affected juniper needles and treat them with fungicide preparations with contact and systemic activity, such as Topaz, Ordan, Folicur, Falcon, Fundazol. All affected plant debris must be destroyed.
As a preventive measure in early spring and autumn, spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid, iron or copper sulphate should be carried out.
In autumn, plant debris and fallen leaves should be removed from the garden, as pathogens of not only rust, but also other diseases can overwinter on them.
Schutte causes browning and drying of juniper needles. The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Lophodermium juniperinum (Fr.) deNot.
In the spring, in the month of May, on last year's juniper shoots, the needles suddenly turn brown, but do not crumble for a long time. A black coating appears on the brown needles - this is the formation of black shiny fruiting bodies of the pathogen fungus.
At risk are weakened plants, as well as those planted in the shade. Schutte develops very quickly in conditions of high humidity and can lead to the death of juniper. The harmfulness of juniper shutte increases several times with prolonged melting of high snow cover. The infection persists in plant debris.
Control measures with juniper shutte are the same as with biotorella crayfish.
Shutte brown
Another name for brown schütte is brown coniferous snow mold. Snow mold can also be observed after snow has melted on other plants, such as lawn grass. In the spring, after liberation from under the snow, on the branches of the juniper you can see yellow or brown needles, entangled in grayish snow mold - cobweb mycelium. Over time, the mold becomes black-brown, thickens and, as it were, glues the needles together. On the affected needles, small black fruiting bodies of the fungus Herpotrichia nigra Karst are formed. Juniper needles turn brown, dry out, and do not crumble for a long time. Thin branches die. The mushroom picker is preserved in needles and plant debris.
Shutte brown spreads more strongly in conditions of high humidity, with a strong density of plantings. Young and weakened plants are most susceptible to disease.
Control measures with Shutte brown are the same as with biotorella crayfish.
Alternariosis causes drying of needles and juniper branches. Alternariosis is caused by the fungus Alternaria tenuis Nees. A velvety black coating forms on the brown needles and branches affected by Alternaria. The needles fall off, the branches become bare, dry up.
Alternariosis often manifests itself when plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The pathogen persists in the needles and bark of juniper branches, plant debris (not only conifers, vegetable crops, such as cabbage, potatoes, are also affected by alternariosis).
Control measures with juniper Alternariosis are the same as with biotorella cancer.
Fusarium wilt is caused by Fusarium oxysporum and Fusarium sambucinum. The fungus penetrates the vascular system of the plant through mechanical damage on the bark, clogs it, causing the death of juniper roots. The access of nutrients to the aerial part of the plant is stopped. The needles, starting from the upper branches, turn yellow, redden and fall off, the plants gradually completely dry out. On the affected areas of the juniper, especially on the roots and basal part, in conditions of high humidity, you can see a grayish-white sporulation of the fungus.
Young and weakened plants are most susceptible to Fusarium wilt. Fusarium persists in plant debris. Infection can also occur through planting material or infected soil. Heavy clay soil, insufficient lighting, low-lying areas with stagnant melt and sewage, a high level of groundwater also provoke the development of fusarium.
Control measures with fusarium wilt of juniper: compliance with agricultural technology, the basic requirements for planting juniper. At the first symptoms of wilting and root rot of juniper, the soil under the plant is shed with a solution of a fungicide preparation: Fitosporin-resuscitator, Fitosporin M, Fundazol, Alirin-B, copper sulphate, copper oxychloride, 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
In order to prevent spring and autumn, they are sprayed with copper sulphate or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. At the first sign of fusarium or tracheomycosis, all dried plants, along with the roots, should be removed from the site with the complete destruction of all plant residues.
Before planting new plants with an open root system, their roots are treated in a solution of the fungicide Fundazol, Maxim, Fitosporin, etc. Seedlings with a closed root system after planting are shed with a solution of the same fungicides.
Sometimes, in spring, juniper stands with red needles, especially on the south side. It's not an infection, but sunburn. In winter, in January-February, when sunny days come, from dazzling white snow, sun, severe frost, the needles quickly lose moisture, and there is no way to replenish it - the root system is in the frozen ground. To prevent this from happening, you need to prepare conifers for winter in the fall. Cover the root system in a timely manner with a thick layer of dry foliage, humus, sand, this will insulate the root system and help the juniper cope with dry frost. Also, from autumn, juniper should be wrapped with burlap or agrospan to shade the crown from the bright winter sun.
Juniper has many diseases, and sometimes they can only be dealt with in the laboratory of the Quarantine Service. But we can reduce the risk of developing juniper diseases with the simplest measures: avoid dense plantings, provide good ventilation for already growing plants, do not plant juniper in heavy shading, in low-lying places with stagnant water. When pruning branches, always use a garden pitch to prevent the mycelium from getting on a fresh cut, and to deal with pests that carry the infection in time.
Every spring and autumn, it is recommended to carry out preventive spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulphate, not only for conifers, but also for all plants in the garden: fruit trees and shrubs, grapes, roses, hydrangeas and other perennial ornamental plants. It must always be remembered that pathogens can persist not only on junipers, but also on other plants, even weeds. Therefore, it is recommended to remove all plant debris from the beds and flower beds in autumn and spring.
Image source: cd.intelico.info, nhm2.uio.no, taxondiversity.fieldofscience.com, ascofrance.fr, uconnladybug.wordpress.com, forum.biodiv.petnica.rs, http://www.invasive.org, wiki .bugwood.org, flowerf.ru, dendromir.ru, www.green-soul.ru, flickr.com: Doug Waylett, Sheran, J Brew, Alan Cressler
