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From what to spray trees in the garden. Spraying garden trees in spring: preparations, consumption rates and rules. Processing in the autumn

If someone believes that by planting an apple tree in the country, he is guaranteed to provide himself with a plentiful harvest of apples for the rest of his life, then you can be very disappointed.

Planting a tree (like having a son) is just the first small step on the long road that you have to go before the first results of your labors make themselves felt. A tree, like a child, must be taken care of constantly, otherwise diseases and pests can cause irreparable harm to your offspring.

Why you need to spray trees and shrubs in the spring

The beginning of the season, that is, the period when garden trees and shrubs, waking up after the winter cold, begin to accumulate strength to form a fruit mass, is exactly the time when you need to take maximum care of their protection. That is why processing trees in the spring from pests and diseases is an important stage in gardening.

In fact, spring is an insidious period. On the one hand, the tree needs time to recover after a long stay in extreme conditions severe frost, on the other hand, various pests, having also woken up from hibernation, begin to actively feed, with pleasure attacking barely blossoming leaves and flowers. It is not surprising that tree care in the spring includes mandatory pest control, because if you do not intervene in the process, you may not wait for the harvest. Definitely destroy all harmful insects in the garden will not succeed, although such a task is not set. It is much more important to drive uninvited guests out of the garden, to make your trees and shrubs as unattractive as possible for such pests, both from the point of view of nutrition and from the point of view of “living”.

Another important argument in favor of the spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases is that this period excludes the direct effect of pesticides on the ovaries and fruits (simply because they have not yet formed), therefore, the fight against garden pests in the spring minimizes the risk of subsequent poisoning with such drugs as a result of eating processed fruits and berries.

Thus, the main task spraying the garden in the spring is to prevent pests and diseases that will lie in wait for your site throughout the season, including when the use of fungicides and insecticides will negatively affect the ecological purity of the crop.

Of course, ideally, we all want to show off fruits and berries grown “without chemistry”. However, it is very important to maintain a healthy balance and sense of proportion. Breeders all over the world are struggling to create plant varieties that are resistant to certain diseases, but it has not yet been possible to bring out a species completely immune to harmful external influences, and it is hardly possible at all, since nature itself has conceived a scheme in which “everyone eats everyone ". Therefore, we should expect that the fruits of the tree, which are not affected by any pest, will also be inedible for humans, because we are also part of the animal world.

In addition, even if the manufacturer assures you that this particular variety (for example, apple trees) is absolutely not affected by scab, you should treat such statements with a healthy dose of skepticism. And this does not mean that you are being deceived. The fact is that the development of certain diseases, as well as the spread of various pests, largely depends on specific external conditions that are constantly changing. In addition, insects and peddlers infectious diseases tend to mutate and adapt to new realities. No wonder they say that you can not use the same fungicide in the garden - the preparations must be constantly changed to ensure the best result.

The main enemies of fruit trees, against which spring spraying is directed, are caterpillars, butterflies, various beetles and aphids. So, if you do not spray the apple tree at the very beginning of the season, the aphid begins to actively suck the juice from the greens and flowers, and also deforms the bark of the tree, forming ugly growths on it, which then crack and turn into gaping wounds. As a result, the tree may stop growing and die. The same danger awaits pears, plums, apricots, cherry plums and other fruit trees.

The cockchafer is very fond of eating leaves and ovaries, and its favorite delicacy is the plum tree. While an adult is rampaging on the surface, its numerous larvae infect the root system of trees, which is especially dangerous for young seedlings. Timely spraying can help rid the garden of such a scourge.

Caterpillars and butterflies are also happy to eat the greens and fruits of apple, pear, plum and cherry trees, so the protection of such trees in the spring will save the future harvest.

The foregoing fully applies to the processing of shrubs (black and red currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc.), since it is in the spring that the main measures should be taken to protect all plants from pests and diseases.

How to spray trees in the spring from diseases and pests

Currently, there are many options for how to treat fruit trees from pests in the spring. Conventionally, they can be divided into three groups:

• biological preparations;
• chemicals;
• "improvised" means, which are usually used by ardent opponents of the first two options, considering this method to be safer for health (and, of course, more economical).

So the choice protective agent depends on the personal preferences of the gardener, but, in addition, on the state of the garden (there are cases when the use of radical processing methods is vital in order to save the garden from imminent death).

Biological agents

Biological garden treatments are gaining popularity as a direct alternative to chemicals.

Their effect on harmful insects and carriers of diseases is exerted not by an artificially synthesized toxic substance, but by living organisms (bacteria, bacterial viruses, antagonist fungi, and even insects). Also, as an alternative, not the living being itself is used, but the toxin (biotoxin) it secretes.

Such biological agents can be "started" on the site on their own, creating conditions that attract beneficial insects. This role can be performed, say, by mustard, buckwheat, dill and other honey plants planted in the country. However, for reliable protection garden, such preventive measures usually not enough, so scientists have developed numerous drugs based on the action beneficial organisms. Let's consider some of them.

is an excellent antagonist of a number of pathogenic fungi (including scab pathogens, various kinds rot, late blight and other unpleasant diseases). The plant itself does not experience any harm from the action of Trichoderma, on the contrary, this fungus releases substances that make the plant more resistant to related diseases. Treatment with the drug can be carried out from the moment the buds open and continue throughout the season.

"Planris" is a soil bacteria that protects the garden from powdery mildew, root and root rot, brown rust, septoria (often affecting raspberries), as well as from lepidopteran pests.

"Pentafage" - a proven way to prevent disease fruit crops bacterial cancer, lesions of perforated stone fruit spotting. In addition, it is a good prevention against scab and powdery mildew.

"Phytodoctor" inhibits the development of pathogenic fungi and bacteria, in particular, protects fruit trees from late blight, bacterial cancer, root and fruit rot, mold, powdery mildew, fusarium wilt, etc.

protects the garden from such fungal and bacterial diseases like scab, wilt, late blight, root rot, powdery mildew, leaf rust and others.

"Mikosan" protects fruit trees from fungal, bacterial and viral diseases. Its action is based on covering the organs of the plant protective film preventing the pathogen from infecting them. The drug strengthens the immunity of the tree and helps it cope with the disease on its own. This remedy should be used separately from any other drugs, at the rate of 0.1 kg of the substance per 4-8 liters of water.

"Gaupsin" proved to be an effective remedy against aphids, codling moth, leafworm, cherry and plum flies. Of the diseases, the zone of influence of the drug is powdery mildew, late blight and others. Also, the tool saturates the plant with the nitrogen it needs.

"Bitoxibacillin" also protects the garden well from gnawing and lepidoptera pests ( spider mite, cabbage moth, hawthorn, silkworm and others). Its action is based on a violation of the intestinal function of the insect, as a result of which the larva dies.

"Aktofit" destroys caterpillars, ticks, whiteflies, aphids.

provides protection against various fungal diseases and, like gaupsin, releases nitrogen molecules from the air. A distinctive feature of the drug is its very fast, in comparison with other by biological means protection, action (the active substance reaches the root system of the tree in less than half an hour after spraying).

« healthy garden» - another means to protect trees from aphids, codling moth, powdery mildew and other pests and diseases.

From ticks and codling moths, the Fitoverm preparation can help get rid of silkworm caterpillars, leafworms, scoops, moths, cabbage, etc. - Lepidocide.

Biological products have a number of unconditional advantages: they do not accumulate in the soil, do not harm the plant, and their consumption is much lower than that of other drugs. But there are also some disadvantages. In general, such compounds take much longer to achieve a beneficial effect, while a chemical poison acts much faster.

Important! The use of biological drugs can only be started when average daily temperature is at least +10° C. At this time, pathogenic bacteria and pests, which are the food of the organisms presented in the biological product, awaken and begin to develop. Otherwise, such biological weapons are powerless, so the most early processing The garden can only be carried out with the help of chemistry.

Chemicals

garden processing chemicals(pesticides) is considered the most effective way to protect trees and shrubs from diseases and pests.

Did you know? The word pesticide comes from two Latin words: pestis (contagion) and caedere (kill). The concept of "pesticides" includes the following groups of poisons: herbicides - act against weeds, insecticides - against harmful insects, fungicides - against pathogens of fungal diseases, zoocides - against warm-blooded animals (for example, rodents). Most often, pesticides, as their name suggests, kill one or another pest, but there are also sterilizers that cause sterility, as well as growth inhibitors that inhibit the development of insects..

Modern pesticides act very quickly and retain their effect for a long time, but, unlike biological products, they can be addictive for pests.

As mentioned above, plant treatment in early spring does not pose a danger to human health or domestic animals, since after a certain time after application, most pesticides completely decompose. Another advantage of chemicals is that they dissolve well in water and are mainly sold in convenient fast application packages.

At the same time, unlike biological products, the correct dosage of pesticides plays a decisive role: exceeding the recommended dose can lead to plant damage (burns, reduced pollen viability, destruction of pistils) and environmental damage, while a “lack” provokes the production of harmful pesticides. organisms immune to the corresponding poison.

Important! It is necessary to work with chemicals only following the safety rules as much as possible, since the toxin can harm humans and pets not only when swallowed, but also through the skin and respiratory tract.

It is best to carry out spring treatment of trees and shrubs with special complex preparations, which are a mixture of fungicide and insecticide. In this case, the plant is simultaneously protected from both diseases and pests.

A possible replacement for this complex preparation is normal urea. The first treatment of the garden in early spring is recommended to be carried out with a higher concentration of urea (urea), adding a little blue vitriol. An additional advantage of this composition is its ability to briefly (for a week or two) slow down the awakening of the tree, and as a result, it is protected from unexpected frosts during flowering (this is especially true for plum trees).

After flowering, the trees should be sprayed with a less concentrated solution of urea. Such treatment will save the garden from aphids, leafworms, apple beetles, suckers.

An overdose of urea can lead to burns on the leaf plate, therefore, when diluting urea with water, you need to be extremely careful.

Spring spraying of fruit plants with copper sulphate is also popular. The procedure is carried out in early March, before the first buds appear, since this pesticide in the concentration necessary to achieve the effect causes a burn on young leaves. An exception is the situation when it is necessary to disinfect a wound on a tree.

Copper sulphate has a detrimental effect on pathogens of curliness, moniliosis, coccomycosis and clasterosporosis, phyllosticosis, scab and other diseases. The drug is recommended to process plums, pears and apple trees.

Important! Copper sulfate is very poisonous! Therefore, it is necessary to exclude the ingress of the drug or its residues into water bodies or other sources of water supply, as this can lead to the death of fish, animals and create serious health problems for people.

Most often, copper sulfate is mixed in equal parts with lime. The resulting mixture is called Bordeaux liquid and protects the garden from most diseases and pests, while being relatively harmless.

These and other copper preparations such as (copper oxychloride), (copper oxychloride and oxadisil), etc. well protect trees and shrubs from fungal diseases, but they should be used no more than once a year. Therefore, if such spraying was carried out in the fall, in the spring you need to choose a different type of treatment.

Until the buds have blossomed on the trees, you can treat them with iron sulphate. In addition to protecting against pests, this drug has another function - it saturates plants with iron necessary for their proper development, this is especially important for trees with iron-containing fruits, such as apple trees, pears and plums.

"Drug 30 V" during early spring spraying, it is aimed at the destruction of pests that overwinter on the bark of fruit trees. First of all, it is a leafworm, a worm, aphids, whiteflies, scale insects and false scales, moths, suckers, fruit mites. The drug forms a film on the bark, which kills the larvae "lurking" inside and destroys the eggs of insects. The disadvantage of the pesticide is a very long decay period, in connection with which the manufacturer warns against using it more than once every three years.

Some summer residents treat the garden with diesel fuel, but this oil product has a very destructive effect on the ecosystem. Therefore, if you do not work at a car depot, where “shoe polish is just heaps up,” use less aggressive chemicals in the garden. But if you still decide to take a chance, then the drug, firstly, can be used very early (even before the kidneys swell), and secondly, its concentration should be minimal, and to enhance the effect, it is better not only to dilute it with water, but also to mix it with other chemicals. There is one exception: diesel fuel can really help protect an apple or plum tree from rotting, for example, in the event of a fracture.

Folk remedies

For opponents of chemistry, a number of folk remedies used for spring gardening can be recommended. Here, however, it should be noted that many pest-damaging plants that form the basis for spraying cannot physically be obtained in early spring. In this case, it is sometimes possible to use stocks dried from last year, but if the "recipe" suggests the presence of fresh grass, it can be used at later stages, and the trees can be protected with chemistry in early spring. Actually, this approach looks quite logical: until the bud has blossomed, we use a more “heavy” and dangerous protection for the tree itself, and after the leaves bloom, flowering and the appearance of ovaries, we use the “light option” as a “control shot”.

For spraying the garden, pest-intolerant plants such as: field sow thistle (it is recommended to take freshly picked), chilli pepper (you can take dried), Walnut(dry leaves), sweet and bitter nightshade (you need fresh tops of stems with leaves, buds and flowers), tansy (dried inflorescences), wormwood (you can take dried), chamomile, Dolmatian, Caucasian (you can take dried), sarsazan (you can take dried shoots), tomato tops (you can use dried or take from last year's compost), garlic (crushed cloves), pine needles, bird cherry (you can take dry branches with leaves), leaf-tailed or thick-fruited sophora (dried greens collected during the flowering period), tobacco (shag) and many others.

The principle of preparing the solution is approximately the same: the raw material is crushed, filled with water, infused and filtered. Proportions, if desired, can be peeped on the network. Except herbal preparations, spraying is also carried out with saline or a solution of superphosphate and potassium chloride (the latter helps to get rid of aphids and leaf-eating caterpillars).

Aphids and suckers are also driven out by fumigating fruit trees with tobacco dust (it is poured on straw, which is set on fire in the garden).

In general, we can say that folk remedies for gardening are certainly not as harmful to the environment as pesticides (although some concentrates can burn a tree), but their effectiveness is incommensurably lower.

Therefore, when choosing one or another method of protection, one should proceed from a lot of factors: from the weather to the condition of your garden, the age of the trees, the prevalence in the region and the infestation of a particular area by one or another pest, etc. It is also important to choose the right time exactly when you are going to process fruit trees from pests: in early spring, at the beginning of flowering or after it.

When you need garden treatment from diseases and pests

The timing of the processing of fruit trees from pests in the spring, as we already understood, can be different. Some drugs should be used as early as possible, due to their particular aggressiveness, others can be used even during flowering and after the formation of ovaries.

In any case, competent garden processing in spring period includes four stages:

Only such comprehensive work will allow us to protect the garden as much as possible, because if in early spring we first of all destroy microorganisms, then in April the main objective spraying - to protect the buds from fungal diseases, scab, powdery mildew, leafworms, weevils, apple flower beetle and other beetles, and in May - to protect the ovaries from later pests.

Features of processing the garden in early spring

The very first cultivation of the garden is considered perhaps the most important. Pests and carriers of diseases that have overwintered in the bark and tree trunks should be preventively destroyed before they have recovered from hibernation and have not begun their dirty work.

The snow has melted, the temperature has risen above zero, it was a windless day - and for work!

We already know how to spray trees in the spring before bud break: we use pesticides, the aggressiveness of which is not yet terrible for a tree, but deadly for pests.

We use Bordeaux liquid for the first spraying at a concentration of up to 3%. You can buy a ready-made kit with properly selected components, or you can make the drug yourself by mixing 0.45 kg of lime and 0.3 kg of copper sulfate in a bucket of water (10 l).

You can also spray the trees with Nitrofen or a mixture of urea and copper sulfate (0.7 kg and 0.05 kg, respectively, per bucket of water). Instead of urea, some gardeners use nitrogen or potash fertilizers but not chlorine. In any case, the fertilizer should be used immediately after dilution, otherwise it will lose all its effectiveness.

Trees and shrubs should be treated completely - from the trunk (especially in places of cracks) and trunk circle to the ends of the branches. Before spraying, be sure to thoroughly clean the trunk with a brush.

Moreover, it must be borne in mind that different plants wake up after winter not at the same time, so if you tighten it with the first treatment, especially early trees and shrubs can be burned. So, if apples, pears and plums are sprayed in mid-March, then, say, the growing season for blackcurrants may begin earlier. Accordingly, it is better to divide the procedure into several stages than to try to do it in one day and, as a result, rinse young kidneys with poison.

Spraying trees and bushes before flowering

As it was said, before the beginning of flowering, after the swelling of the buds, and also right on the buds (before they blossomed), the garden is re-treated. If spraying is carried out with pesticides, it is necessary to use a weaker concentration of them (for example, if we diluted the Bordeaux liquid to a 3% solution during the first treatment, now we use 1% solution).

However, it is preferable at this stage to use more modern drugs that can be purchased in specialized stores. For example, by mixing the Horus fungicide and the Aktar insecticide, you will simultaneously protect the garden from both fungal diseases and insect pests. The same mixture can be reapplied after flowering trees. Such drugs as "Fufanon", "Decis" and others have proven themselves well.

The nuances of processing the garden during the flowering period

The question "Is it possible to spray trees during flowering?" is quite debatable. Many gardeners categorically do not recommend doing this, since you can damage the inflorescences and disrupt the entire subsequent process of fruit set.

In general, there is no doubt that during the flowering period it is definitely impossible to use strong pesticides that can harm not only flowers, but also bees actively “working” in a blooming garden.

If, for one reason or another, you did not have time to process the garden before the flowers appeared, then it is still better later than never. Processing the garden during this period will protect the tree from aphids, mites, leafworms, suckers, sawflies and other pests, as well as from many insidious diseases. You can use phosphorus-containing organic preparations, for example, "Fufanon" or "Aktellik". In warmer times, use Fitoverm, Akarin, Iskra Bio, Entobacterin and other biological preparations, because we remember that they are safe for wood, but deadly for pathogens and harmful insects.

Treatment of trees and shrubs after flowering

Spraying fruit trees and shrubs after flowering - the final stage spring protection garden from diseases and pests . Its main goal is to destroy leafworm caterpillars, apple codling moth, weevils, moths, aphids, mites and prevent possible garden diseases.

Processing should be carried out no later than three weeks after the trees and shrubs have faded.

There is a mass modern drugs for processing the garden during this period, so there should be no problems with choosing the most suitable one. But what you definitely shouldn’t spray trees after flowering is pesticides in high concentrations. It is better at this stage to give preference to biological products or more gentle chemical agents. For the May spraying of fruit trees, for example, you can use the following preparations: Brunka, Blue Bordeaux, Fital, Delan, Saprol, Fury, Fastak, Talstar, Fufanon, "Decis", "Karate", "Confidor", "Apercut", "Koragen".

The fungicide "Skor" recommended for use at this stage is also effective and low-toxic. The choice depends on many factors, in particular, each drug is aimed at combating certain pests, which, in turn, have their own preferences among fruit trees. Therefore, read the instructions and select the optimal mixture.

So, for example, for apricot, the greatest danger is perforated spotting and monilial burn, of pests - aphids, leafworms, moths.

Peach, fading, is often affected by curly foliage and clasterosporium, and it is also often attacked by the codling moth. Plum trees are prone to moniliosis, clasterosporiasis, polystigmosis, among insects their main enemies are mites, aphids, leafworms, codling moths. Cherry and cherry orchards after flowering can affect klesterosporiosis and coccomycosis. cherry flies they love to lay eggs under the skin of fruits at the moment they are set, and these trees also infect aphids and leafworms.

Apple and pear trees suffer from scab and powdery mildew, among pests, apple codling moth, mites, aphids, and sawflies are dangerous for them.

Important! At this stage, it is better to spray the garden in evening time: caterpillars hiding in the foliage by night get out to feast on ovaries and green mass, on which poison is already waiting for them. If the drug has worked, in the morning you will be able to observe a mass phenomenon: a huge number of dead caterpillars hanging from branches on thin cobwebs.

How to properly treat trees and shrubs from diseases and pests

By and large, you can act as you like, but for the safety (of yourself and those around you), as well as to achieve maximum effect, it is better to follow certain rules and recommendations.

You need to start spraying from the crown, gradually moving down. The final stage is the processing of the near-stem circle (it is very important not to forget this area). With the exception of the last spraying, which is carried out during the active "work" of the caterpillars, it is better to treat trees in the early morning.

For the procedure, you need to choose a calm, dry day. Take an interest in the weather forecast and if rain is expected in the next day, postpone the procedure for a few days. With minimal humidity, the active substance will be absorbed faster and cause less damage to the plant. An exception may be some biological products, which, on the contrary, need moisture, so read the instructions before using them. It is also important to correctly calculate the required amount of the drug, since its reuse after a while is absolutely unacceptable: you need to dilute exactly as much as you need for today's processing. In this case, it follows from such calculations: about 5-6 liters of solution “leaves” for an adult tree, from 0.5 to 1.5 liters for shrubs and young trees, depending on their size.

Finally, to make it convenient to work, you should not lower a broom into a bucket and spray it on a tree - better buy a modern sprayer. Today, manufacturers offer the widest selection of models that will allow you to choose the best option depending on the size of your garden (they differ both in volume and power, and, accordingly, in price). Low-growing trees and young seedlings can be treated with an ordinary plastic spray, and for large gardens It may be worth getting an expensive but very reliable electric pump.

Do not forget about personal safety. It is necessary to clearly understand how toxic the drug you are working with is and, depending on this, already adjust your behavior. In any case, the face should be covered with a respirator or gauze bandage, hair should be covered with a scarf or bandana, and eyes should be protected with goggles. Work with gloves and in general it is better not to leave exposed skin. Keep households (especially children) and pets away.

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Hearing that tree spraying is beneficial and knowing exactly when to spray trees are two different things. If the spraying of fruit trees in the spring does not happen on time, then at best you will not get the desired result, and at worst you will be left without a crop at all. Trees are processed not only when the fruits have already formed, but also in late autumn, when the leaves fall, and in early spring, when the buds have not yet blossomed.

Based on the experience of many gardeners, a conditional plant processing calendar was created. It takes into account the drugs that should be used in a certain period, and the time of the procedure. Is it possible to spray trees during flowering? This is the most actual question all novice gardeners. In most cases, you will find one categorical answer: no, this should never be done. But let's try to sort everything out in order.

Garden processing in spring

The first work with fruit trees is planned for early spring. Experienced gardeners advise starting pest control as soon as the snow melts and the air warms up to + 5ºС. This usually happens closer to mid-March, when the buds are just starting to form. The first thing to do is to clean it with a brush. On the same day you make necessary solution and treat plants. Special attention devote to cracks in the bark, where harmful microorganisms could overwinter.

The next treatment takes place in April, it is aimed at protecting the buds of apple trees, plums and pears from fungal diseases and the deer beetle. But in you need to protect against possible diseases and other pests, but this is done after flowering. The answer to the question of whether it is possible to spray trees during flowering seems to be clear. This should be done before or after flowering. Although there is one "but". In order to increase the yield, it is necessary to attract more bees and other insects to fruit trees. Therefore, pears and plums are sprayed with honey solution and it is during flowering. It is prepared at the rate of 100 g of honey per 10 liters of water. This will attract a huge number of insects, abundant pollination will occur, which always guarantees a good harvest.

So there is one positive answer to the question of whether it is possible to spray trees during flowering. But be limited spring processing not worth it because great importance also has autumn spraying of fruit plants.

Tree processing in autumn

The closing of the season and the preparation of the garden for wintering take place from October to November. This should be done after the foliage has already fallen, especially if you are using chemicals. Before processing on trees older than 6 years, it is advisable to remove the old bark and lichens so that various pests and pathogens do not overwinter under them. This is done using metal brush. After such cleaning, you can proceed to the first spraying with a fresh solution. You can do the second spraying after the first frost, when weeds and all fallen leaves are removed.

Preparations used for the treatment of trees

Domestic gardeners most often use the following tools:

Copper sulphate - protects plants from moniliosis, curliness, scab, coccycosis and phyllosticoses. Processing is carried out in the first half of March and at the end of October.

Iron vitriol - supplies plants with the necessary iron and effectively protects against pests. Processing takes place twice a year, when the garden has not yet had time to turn green and when it is already preparing for wintering.

Urea (carbamide) - destroys pest larvae and slows down the rate of plum awakening after wintering (for 1-2 weeks), which protects its color from spring frosts. Processing occurs last before winter and in spring after flowering.

- "Preparation 30" - it relieves plants of leafworms, whiteflies, aphids, mites, moths, worms and suckers that hibernated in the bark. Processing occurs in late autumn, although this tool is also used in the summer. Gardeners advise to use it no more than 1 time in 3 years.

Now you have an idea about whether it is possible to spray trees during flowering, as well as when it is best to do this. It is important to carefully monitor the condition of your garden, and for decades it will delight you with a bountiful harvest.

Proper care of fruit trees, and their timely treatment from diseases and pests, will provide the gardener with an abundant and high-quality harvest of fruits and berries.

Spring periods of spraying trees

Spring preparation for the processing of garden trees and shrubs is carried out immediately after the snow melts. That is, in the beginning or middle of March. First of all, you need to release horticultural crops from damaged and dried branches and bark. This procedure also protects trees from the occurrence of various diseases and pests that have remained overwintering in the plant since autumn.

The garden processing period is divided into three stages:

• From the beginning to the end of March, when the buds of the plant are just beginning to form. At this stage, trees protect against harmful microorganisms that survived the cold, and with the onset of heat, they began an active life. Such pests have a bad effect on the formation of buds and flowering, which subsequently leads to negative formation and ripening of the fetus;
• All April, that is, just before the flowering of the garden. During this period, it is necessary to spray the buds to activate their growth, and at the same time all kinds of fungal diseases are destroyed. You also need to inspect the tree for the presence of various bugs and other harmful insects, and if they are found. The plant must be treated with a special agent;
• Mid May. This step is the most important. Since during this period, almost all trees cease to bloom, and the formation of fruits begins. Therefore, at this stage, in order to avoid fruit diseases, as well as their high-quality ripening, the trees must be treated with a special mixture.

The first spring spraying of pears, apple trees, plums

Fruit trees, namely plums, apple trees and pears, the first treatment for pests and diseases should be carried out when:

Spraying fruit trees you can not do without chemicals, especially plums. Since this plant is highly susceptible to fungal diseases, which are simply not realistic to remove without chemicals.

However, in addition to chemical treatments, pests can be controlled by the following folk methods:

• Drop or crush harmful insects on a specially prepared bedding;
• Wrap tree trunks and branches with special belts;
• Independently make various decoctions from plants that repel insects, and spray the garden with them.

Thus, the above methods, in combination with chemical agents, will give an excellent result.

Means intended for the treatment of trees and shrubs before bud break

The most important thing when choosing a means for processing horticultural crops is to pay attention to the level of infection of plants, as well as to predict possible diseases.

Before bud break, the following agents are most often used for spraying:

1. Inkstone. It is able to speed up the vegetative process of the plant, as well as prevent and even cure infected trees from various fungal diseases. For spraying fruit trees, as well as shrubs, a mixture is recommended where the concentration of vitriol will be no more than three percent;
2. Nitrafenic acid. Used in the fight against overwintered aphids, mites and other insects, a two percent mixture is usually used for shrubs, and a three percent concentration for trees;
3. Copper vitriol. It has a positive effect on the opening of the kidneys and their further development. The content of this substance in the prepared solution should not exceed one percent;
4. Oleocuprite. Designed to combat the laid eggs and larvae of aphids, suckers and mites. It has proven itself in the fight against various stains that negatively affect the foliage and fruits of the tree. This drug is mainly sold and used at a four percent concentration;
5. Urea. Effectively fights spots and black dots on the shoots of shrubs that have formed after the winter. In addition, it has a good effect on the active growth of the kidneys;
6. Bordeaux mixture. It is used to prevent fungal diseases of the tree.

Applying for processing garden plants chemical preparations, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions attached to them, this will avoid negative consequences in case of an overdose, or vice versa, do not get any effect.

Preparations for spraying the orchard after bud break

• 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Serves as an excellent tool for protecting the tree from diseases, and contributes to better development kidneys. With a concentrated solution of more than one percent, there is a possibility of damage to weak buds and buds;
• Horus. It is a combined preparation that copes well with any type of plant infection. Also, its use with other means effectively affects the protective shell of a shrub or tree;
• Decis. It includes a wide variety of chemical elements. Thanks to which, it will be very easy to stop the activity of harmful insects;
• Thirty grams of copper chlorine per eight liters of water will also help to cope with various pests. If this chemical is not found, you can use similar drugs, such as polycarbocine and polychome.

Garden processing after flowering

The most important period for processing a plant is the time after flowering. Since it is during this period that harmful insects begin their active life. Therefore, to destroy pests and prevent their reproduction, professional gardeners recommend the following options for spraying:

When treating trees with chemicals, it is necessary to take personal precautions, as well as use personal protective equipment.

Other products for spraying the orchard in spring

Currently, there are quite a lot of various chemicals for spraying horticultural crops. domestic production. These chemicals are sold in almost all garden stores and hypermarkets, and are usually a concentrated liquid or powder.

The following insecticides have shown effective results, proven by more than one professional gardener:

• Danadim;
• Zolon;
• Mitak;
• Dnok.

These preparations perfectly protect plants from scale insects, codling moths, ticks and aphids.

Effective remedies against fungal diseases are:

• Karatan;
• Copper oxychloride;
• Speed;
• Copper vitriol;
• Fufanon;
• Zeon;
• Kare.

It is worth noting that when using a complex of various drugs, the result will be much more effective.

Preparation of a mixture for spraying trees from Urea, copper and iron sulphate

These substances, and especially copper sulfate, have good antiseptic properties. However, in order to avoid burns on immature shoots of plants, copper sulfate must be diluted with lime, in equal proportions. After that, one hundred grams of the resulting mixture must be diluted with ten liters of water.

Concerning iron sulphate, then it should never be diluted with lime. Such a drug is simply diluted with water, in a ratio of three hundred grams of the substance per ten liters of water.

When treated with such preparations, the leaves on a tree or shrub may darken slightly. This means that the tool has turned out to be the right consistency and has begun to act.

In contact with

In my summer cottage at the end of spring, on my favorite varieties of apple trees, I noticed an apple flower beetle. Since it is not recommended to process trees during the flowering period, I waited for the last bud to fade.

She waited another two weeks, then she treated not only the apple tree, but also other fruit trees with the Decis preparation. Two weeks later, the number of flower beetles dropped sharply, and later they disappeared altogether.

Thus, I was able to save my future harvest. In this article, I will list folk remedies and chemicals with which you can save fruit trees from insect pests after flowering.

Fruit trees during flowering and fruiting are not recommended to be sprayed. Therefore, treatment against insect pests and fungal diseases is carried out in early spring or after flowering has ended. The final stage is usually carried out in autumn during the preparation of plants for winter.

For this procedure, choose a dry and calm day. It is best to spend it in the evening, as at this time most insect pests begin to crawl out of the cracks. But you can also process early in the morning. And it would be nice to look at the weather forecast to see if rainy days are coming soon.

Otherwise, the procedure will have to be repeated after rain. But there are chemicals that work better during high humidity. Therefore, you should first read the instructions for the drug.

On a tree taller than two meters, about six liters of solution are usually dissolved for spraying, and about two liters, even less, are enough for low shrubs and trees. But in the second case, they look at the density of their crown.

If you do not want to spend money on a modern sprayer, you can spray with a broom, which is dipped into a bucket of solution each time.

And so in specialized stores you can buy any sprayer from the cheapest to the most expensive, depending on their composition and power. To process a large number of trees, it is better to purchase an electric pump.

To loved ones fruit varieties pests and diseases attacked as little as possible, from the very beginning it is desirable to choose hybrid seedlings for planting, with high resistance to various diseases and pests.

Safety

When working with chemicals, it is undesirable to neglect safety precautions, otherwise you can get poisoned or get a skin burn:

• At first, they make sure that there are no children and animals in the garden during the procedure.
• Before work, be sure to wear protective clothing, rubber gloves, a mask or respirator, goggles, a scarf. They make sure that there is not a single one left on the body open area skin. Since it is not known how the human body will react if a few drops of a chemical preparation get on it.
• When buying in a specialized store, be sure to study the instructions for the drug, its composition, pay attention to the expiration date.
• In the evening, it is not recommended to spray nitrogen-containing substances on plants, it is better to do this in the morning.
• It should be remembered that it is desirable to spray the garden with chemistry as little as possible for the entire season. Ideally, it is used once or twice per season.
• After processing, be sure to write down in a notebook what date the procedure was performed, the name of the drug or folk recipe, a list of treated trees and shrubs.
• During operation, it is recommended to stir or shake the solution regularly.
• In order for the substance to fall on the leaves with fine dew, during operation, the tip of the apparatus is kept away from the branches.
• After finishing work, be sure to wash your face and hands with ordinary soap, despite the fact that they were closed. protective clothing and mask. It is also recommended to rinse your mouth with boiled water, rinse your nose.

Folk recipes

Due to the fact that fruit plants after flowering with chemical solutions are recommended to be treated very carefully so as not to damage the future crop, many gardeners choose folk recipes that not only rid the trees of insect pests, but also do not cause any harm to the plant and humans.

• Walnut leaves - They are harvested in early autumn, so the concentrate is prepared almost immediately and stored until summer. To do this, the bucket is filled with leaves by two-thirds, poured with boiling water. Close the lid tightly and put in a cool place until spring. And in the spring, before spraying, a liter of walnut tincture is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of liquid. This procedure does not cause any harm to the fruits, so it can be repeated every ten days until the pests completely disappear.
• Tops of tomatoes - By the time the flowering of fruit tomatoes is over, they already grow enough that they can cut off unnecessary leaves for future broth. With it, you can get rid of aphids and their larvae. About four kilograms of leaves are thrown into an enameled ten-liter bucket, filled to the top with water and put on fire for half an hour. The cooled tincture is diluted with five liters of cool liquid, a little grated soap is added. Then, if necessary, they carefully spray the entire crown.
• Wormwood - With its help, you can easily destroy pests such as: aphids, mites, codling moth caterpillars, weevils, sawflies. About a kilogram of leaves is thrown into an enameled container, 5 liters are added hot water. Leave alone for two days. After that, the container is put on fire, boiled for half an hour. After the tincture has cooled, it is filtered and diluted with ten liters of water. Plants are treated with them twice with an interval of a week.
• Hot pepper - With it, you can get rid of slugs, caterpillars, suckers. Tincture begins to be made ten days before spraying. About a kilogram of pepper pods are crushed, filled to the brim with hot water and placed in a dark and cool place for ten days. Before processing, 150 ml of pepper tincture is diluted in 10 liters of liquid.
• Tansy - It rids plants of many types of insect pests. To do this, 700 grams of tansy powder is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of hot water. They insist for about two days. Then boil again for about 15 minutes, filter. Before spraying, a liter of tincture should be diluted with a liter of water. This tool can be used an unlimited number of times.
• Tobacco dust - the most effective method in pest control. A glass of tobacco dust is stirred in two liters of water. Cook for about half an hour over low heat, without bringing to a boil. Leave to infuse for a day, then dilute with six liters of water before spraying. In order for it to better stick to the branches and leaves of the plant, a little soap is diluted in the broth.

Chemicals

They are used only if folk recipes have not worked. And it is worth remembering that they are not processed during flowering and fruiting. And if it was necessary to process during fruiting, then in this case the crop is harvested only a month after the last procedure.

The tools described below can not only completely destroy many insect pests, but also protect trees from fungal and viral diseases. They can be processed only two to three weeks after the last petal of the inflorescence flies off.

• Bordeaux liquid - With it, you can quickly get rid of ticks, codling moths, cure the plant from many fungal and viral diseases. But this drug is treated strictly two weeks after the last petal has flown off, and even better, before flowering. In any case, the solution must be very weak. In a plastic bucket with liquid, 50 grams of copper sulfate and 200 grams of lime are diluted. The container should not be iron. Processing is carried out immediately after mixing. This tool it is not recommended to store diluted for a long time.
• Urea - Trees are treated with it not only for medicinal, but also for preventive purposes, since it well relieves fruit trees of all larvae, aphids, flower beetles, leafworms. The solution for treating faded trees should be very weak. In one bucket of liquid, 50 grams of urea is diluted. For enhanced effect you can add 10 grams of copper sulfate. You can water not only the branches, but also the ground, thereby fertilizing it.
• Karbofos - This insecticide in a short time will destroy the leafworm, aphids, mites, codling moth. To do this, 3 grams of karbofos are diluted in a five-liter container. For an adult tree, 8 liters of solution is enough, and a shrub will need even less - 3 liters.
• Chlorophos - A very poisonous agent that instantly rids the plant of all types of mites and beetles. In a five-liter jar of water, 35 grams of chlorophos are diluted. In this case, the gardener needs to carefully use this chemical.
• Benzophosphate - It relieves fruit not only from insect pests, but also mammalian rodents. The proportions for the solution are the same as for chlorophos.
• Fungicide "Skor" - It is considered the most low-toxic and effective tool. Protects plants from aphids, moths, codling moths, sawflies, mites, cherry flies, leafworms and fungal diseases. Suitable for all fruit and berry plants.

Spraying the garden in the spring is an important agrotechnical event, and everyone knows this. Sometimes site owners approach spraying the garden in the spring formally, without thinking too much about the essence of this agronomic procedure. Then the annual spraying of the garden in the spring runs the risk of becoming "senseless and merciless", even dangerous.

Our desire to put a barrier to pests and plant diseases is quite understandable. With the weather in middle lane fruit and berry crops are regularly threatened by at least 70 types of insect pests and about 20 varieties of infectious diseases. Humanity has ways to suppress as many of them as possible, but then the environment and food will become dangerously poisonous for humans as well. Finding balance is the main task of spring events.

Refusal of processing

It must be admitted that the absence of global preventive irrigation is by no means the worst option. Definitely it is more reasonable than any excess.

• It is permissible to relax a little, if country cottage area quite young and has not yet accumulated a large mass of harmful organisms.
• It is necessary to plant in the garden unpretentious, resistant varieties(there are trouble-free roses, scab-free apple trees, blackcurrants without mites and red gall aphids, gooseberries without a sphere library, strawberries with almost no gray rot, etc.) and to the optimal place.
• Regular agrotechnical measures are needed (thinning, pruning, digging, deoxidation, fertilization, mulching, traps, etc.).
• It is useful to apply spraying with biological preparations and stimulants from spring to autumn: immunomodulators Epin Extra, Zircon, Gumi; biopesticides Strobi and Fitoverm, microbiological agents such as Fitosporin. All of them act on already vegetating plants.

Even the most ardent supporters of organic farming are ready to give up if a significant part of the crop regularly dies in the garden. The way out is to seek a compromise: minimal harm when maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of pests and diseases, not forgetting about the environment.

All at once

"Give me something to spray everything and everything in the garden at once in the spring" echoes before the start of the season in garden shops. Even a simple and logical question from a reasonable seller: "Are you from diseases or from pests?" - able to lead the buyer into a stupor. Of course, a nimble seller will hand over some coveted product, to the delight of the buyer. As a rule, there are two results, and both are disappointing:

1. There is almost no effect from spraying.

2. The garden accumulates poisons.

Spring is a flexible concept

"Wide is my native country", and in garden recommendations have to separate the seasons of the calendar and natural. For agrotechnical measures, two natural indicators are important (according to different regions dates differ by a month or more) - air temperature and stages of plant development in the spring garden:

• Before the kidneys swelled
• "green cone" - the very beginning of the extension of the leaves,
• budding,
• bloom,
• young ovaries.

The concept of "spring spraying" is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between spring and summer periods. However, two stages can be clearly distinguished: processing before the swelling of the kidneys and after this event (when the leaves and buds are advanced).

When, how and how to treat the garden from diseases and pests

The earliest term is the phase of dormant buds

We carry out the first spraying in the spring when low positive temperatures occur in the garden (+4 +6 degrees or slightly higher), but always before the buds swell, for dormant plants. Everywhere there is a different height and speed of melting of the snow cover, and cultures wake up in different time Therefore, it is not always possible to meet one specific day. Black currants wake up very early and, but a bed of strawberries, sheltered roses and grapes, can be under snow for a long time (especially on the northern slope).

Exceptions for plants

What horticultural crops can not be sprayed at all during this period

• Honeysuckle practically does not get sick and extremely rarely suffers from pests - if this is your good case, then we bypass it for now.
• This may also apply to blackberries (especially late ripening ones).
• If modern varieties are planted in your garden black currant, which are not damaged by powdery mildew and bud mites, then there is no point in spraying in early spring either. You still can’t get the glass box inside the shoots, and the aphids are still in deep sleep(we will defeat it later with a biological product such as Fitoverma).
• Do not need to be sprayed with fungicides and gooseberry varieties that are hardy to the sphere library.
• In many gardens, sea buckthorn does not get sick.
• In the case when your pears do not show up from year to year serious problems, it is also permissible to put them alone.
• If there were previously prosperous years, there will be no need for disease protection for apple varieties that are immune to scab and hardy to moniliosis (fruit rot).
• Finally, the vines often do not need any treatment in the northern viticulture zone.
• By ornamental shrubs and perennial flowers need a thoughtful individual approach.

This is very important point- to determine the circle of problem-free plants that do not require excessive care: for us - saving time, effort, money, and most importantly - the benefit of the environment. Chemical protection of the garden is carried out not all the time and not "just in case", but at real risk.

Scope

Before the buds swell, berries and fruit trees (strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries, cherries, cherry plums, quince, peach, apricots, grapes), rose garden, flower beds need to be sprayed. At this time, the impact is more focused on diseases and only partially on pests, many of which are still dormant.

What to spray, optimal processing methods

Hot water

Bringing a bucket of water to a boil, immediately pour it into a watering can and water the bushes of any color of currants and gooseberries (sometimes they also capture raspberries and blackberries) - only over the sleeping bushes. It is believed that this partially destroys wintering forms of pests and diseases. With water with a temperature of strictly +65 degrees, we pour bushes of garden strawberries from a watering can immediately after the snow melts - from a strawberry microscopic mite and nematode.

"Blue spray" - Bordeaux liquid

This is an ancient, invented a century and a half ago, but still the most useful measure against almost all fungal and bacterial infections on all crops and on the soil surface. It is carried out with such a tool as strong Bordeaux liquid - at a concentration of about 3% (and not 1%, as in green foliage). In the instructions for the drug, sometimes there is a discrepancy in the ratio of lime and copper sulfate in solution. This confusion stems from the fact that the original recipe used quicklime, and now most often they take slaked (calcium hydroxide), and more is required. When a store-bought Bordeaux mixture is purchased, it is better to act clearly according to the instructions. If it deals only with the preparation of a 1% solution, then for a 3% solution we simply reduce the amount of water by a factor of three. With independent purchase of ingredients for 3 liters of water, we take 100 grams of copper sulfate and slaked lime (or about 150-200 quicklime).

The alternative is Burgundy liquid. We cook in the same way as Bordeaux, but instead of lime we use soda (calcined or food); sometimes we also add a spoonful of soap or sugar to better stick to the branches. There is an option where we replace part of the soda with mustard powder and ammonia; let the mixture boil with the passage of a chemical reaction, and then immediately carry out the processing.

Drug 30+

The official manufacturer is only NPF Sober. This is an emulsion of vaseline oil, originally used in the spring to combat the scale insect (the most dangerous fruit pest) in Krasnodar Territory. It turned out that the remedy is practically harmless to humans, but it disrupts the breathing of insects wintering on the branches of bushes and trees. From spraying in early spring, not only scale insects die, but also other insects wintering in crowns, even eggs and larvae. We stir a liter of the product in two buckets of water and spray the garden, spending a liter or two per bush and up to five liters per large tree. The substance is dangerous for bees. A similar product, Prophylactin, also contains a similar oil, but plus liquid karbofos (malathion), which is highly poisonous and useless at this time.

More spring spraying options

In early spring, a strong solution of carbamide is also used (600 grams per bucket), sometimes with the addition of copper sulfate (50 grams).

Iron sulfate is also used for spraying, especially in the fight against lichen and moss, as well as against various diseases on grapes, roses, and fruit trees. A kilogram of iron sulfate is dissolved in twenty liters of water (for stone fruits such as cherries, the concentration is weaker, 600 grams per two buckets).

Both remedies are considered highly scalding, and experienced gardeners It is recommended to apply them not in early spring, but in late autumn. In addition, spraying them in the spring can delay bud break in the garden for a week.

Not an option

Agronomists do not advise resorting to folk remedies such as salt, diesel fuel, kerosene.

I would especially like to say about Nitrofen. The drug has long been recognized as the most dangerous carcinogen and banned in many countries, including Russia!!! You will not find it on sale (and you don’t need to).

Spraying at the stage of bud break ("green cone") and nomination of buds

At this time, all sorts of harmful organisms begin to wake up - both microscopic and those that are larger. A cool rainy spring ensures the early development of diseases, and sunny weather will please all insects.

Treatment for diseases (fungicides)

Preparations with copper

It is not too late to use Bordeaux liquid for continuous processing - only at a concentration of 1%. Flowers, grapes, apple-pears, cherries-plums, flowers in spring are also treated with HOM, Abiga-Peak is also used.

Biologicals

It is during this period that adherents of ecological farming carry out the first two treatments with such means as Fitosporin (everything in a row), Alirin (strawberries from gray rot, fruit trees), Fitolavin (apple trees from fruit rot).

This group includes the drug Strobi. It is a naturally occurring fungicide. It is used on apple and pear at the very beginning of its vegetation.

Prognoz (and other drugs with propiconazole)

Goods of identical composition: Forecast, Agrolekar, Chistoflor, Propi Plus. These are modern fungicides that are considered not too toxic. They process berries in the budding phase: strawberries (from gray rot), raspberries, gooseberries, currants.

Pureflower (and other products with difenoconazole)

Pureflower, Rayok, Skor, Diskor, Guardian, Plantenol represent the same contents. Used for pome and stone fruits fruit crops, as well as on beautiful bushes, roses and other flowers.

Topaz (Penconazole)

In the spring - this is the prevention of rust and powdery mildew on flowers, currants, gooseberries.

Thiovit Jet

This is sulfur - against powdery mildew on currants, apple trees, roses.

Horus

Designed for grapes, all pome and stone fruit crops. It is considered not too dangerous for bees, birds and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: there are no aphids, no caterpillars, no spider mites in the garden yet. It makes sense to use poison if last year there was a dominance of pests (weevil, raspberry beetle, sea buckthorn fly, codling moths, leafworms, etc.). You can not spray at the time of flowering - you need either before this joyful event, or immediately after, strictly according to the instructions.

Poisons-pyrethroids

This is, Spark Double effect, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphate poison (malathion)

These are Karbofos, Fufanon, Iskra M.

Double poisons

This is Alatar, Inta-CM.

Copper preparations are recommended to be used separately. The rest of the fungicides can be mixed with pesticides, after checking whether this causes a violent chemical reaction. Studies show that the addition of a stimulant such as Epin Extra allows you to reduce the dosage of chemicals by one and a half to two times while maintaining effectiveness.