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Protection of trees from pests in early spring. Processing the garden in the spring from pests and diseases. As soon as the snows melted

The day is getting longer, the sun is getting warmer. Spring is coming - it's time for the most intensive work in the garden. People say: if you don’t make it in spring, you won’t burst in winter. And that's right. Spring work begins with gardening.

Spring agrotechnical events

We start spring agrotechnical activities in the garden with preparation for processing fruit crops from diseases and pests:

• On young seedlings, we remove heaters and process them from possible pests. We dry. Store in a dry place until fall.
• On fruit-bearing crops, we remove the trapping belts and burn them.
• When a stable temperature of -5 ..-7ºС sets in, we trim the crown, clean the trunk and skeletal branches from the old lagged bark that served as " winter quarters» for pests. We process saw cuts and cuts with var, special formulations or simply disinfect with 5% copper sulphate and paint over with oil paint.
• The April sun is bright. You need to hide stems and skeletal branches of trees from him, put whitewash and paints in a spring outfit, and at the same time destroy some of the pests.
• Adult pests (weevils, fruit sawflies) can simply be shaken off the tree. The technology for this procedure is simple, but up to 60-80% of pests that overwintered during adult form, will be destroyed. The procedure should be carried out at a temperature not higher than + 7 ... + 8ºС, in the early morning in cloudy weather, so that the beetles, numb from the cold, do not fly away. Remove all protruding weeds under the crown. Lay out the film evenly. Use a long pole to shake the branches. Overwintered pests will sprinkle from the crown of the tree. It remains to carefully roll up the film with beetles to take out and burn the pests.

Processing of trunks and skeletal branches of fruit crops

Before processing the wood, lay a film under it. Inspect the trunk and large branches again, remove the remnants of the old bark, clean the cracks, close up the hollows and wounds. The film is needed to protect the soil from pests and re-infection of plants.

The chemical industry offers ready-made formulations for whitewashing and even painting trunks and main shoots of adult plants. The most popular dye for whitewashing - acrylic paint. On sale there are water-based and water-dispersion dyes marked "for garden trees". They stay on the bark of trees for a long time, they are not washed off by rains. Dyes contain an antiseptic, so no additional pesticides need to be added to the solution. Sometimes, if the composition is liquid, PVA glue is added to it. With a dense consistency, glue is not needed. If it is impossible to buy a ready-made whitewash solution, you can prepare it yourself.

Self-preparation of whitewash solutions

For young seedlings, the solution is prepared on a water-based or chalk-based basis. Lime can burn the tender bark of seedlings. BI-58 and copper sulfate are added to the solution as disinfectants. Other disinfectants can also be used. Glue, especially carpentry, cannot be used. It clogs the pores in the young bark, as a result of which gas exchange decreases, the trunks thicken more slowly (remain weak to maintain the crown).

Advice! To protect the young bark of seedlings from sunburn always install a support stake with south side trunk. There will be additional shadow protection.

In the garden, don't limit yourself to one whitewash a year. Whitewashing as it is washed off must be repeated.

For fruit-bearing trees, the following mixtures are prepared, with which the trunk and all skeletal branches are treated. Solutions are prepared on freshly slaked lime. It burns the eggs of many pests laid since autumn.

Blend 1.

Dilute slaked lime to a thick cream. For better adhesion to a bucket of solution, add 1-2 handfuls of clay, clerical glue (some gardeners use joiner's glue), copper sulfate and any strong-smelling pesticide BI-58, dichlorvos, etc.

Blend 2.

Prepare a solution of freshly slaked lime of a creamy density, add clerical glue, dissolved laundry soap, copper sulfate, fungicide hom (30-40 g / bucket), you can oksihom (20 g / bucket). This composition is good for use in gardens affected by fungal diseases, mosses and lichens.

Blend 3.

In regions where nitrofen is allowed, you can add 200 g of the drug to a bucket of whitewash solution. It is effective against overwintering eggs of garden pests.

Each gardener can use his own whitewash recipe. The above compositions are examples for beginners.

Whitewashing is completed by installing trapping belts from a straw bundle on the lower part of the trunk. Treat the tourniquet with any powdered pesticide (DDT, etc.), grease the bole with special anti-caterpillar garden glue and attach the trap belt to the glue track. Animals from the soil, including "household" ants, will get stuck on the adhesive track in the belt and die. During the spring, trapping belts are changed twice in 10-12 days. The old must be burned.

The measures taken will partially destroy the pests, but with the onset of the warm period, other sucking and gnawing representatives of the negative world will wake up harmful insects and beetles.

Brief description of pests

Pests of the green world can be divided into two groups according to the way they feed:

• sucking,
• gnawing.

In suckers, the oral apparatus is adapted for sucking the juices of the plant. In this case, the normal nutrition of the culture is disturbed and, with epiphytotic damage, leads to the death of the plant. The main sucking pests of the garden are aphids, mites, scale insects, leafhoppers, pennits, suckers and others. Adult individuals remaining from wintering in a short time, actively multiplying, form huge colonies. In the process of feeding, they secrete a sweet liquid "honeydew", which is a breeding ground for fungi, bacteria, viruses and the favorite food of ants. Eating honeydew affected by negative diseases, they spread diseases to all cultures they visit.

Gnawing pests gnaw on young vegetative (leaves, buds, young shoots, roots) and generative organs (flower buds, flowers, ovaries). They cause irreparable harm to the emerging crop and the tree itself. In some years, pests destroy the crop by 50-100%. Often cause the death of culture. This group of pests includes caterpillars of various butterflies, barbels, click beetles, weevils, etc.

Fruit pest control methods

Pest control can be carried out in several ways:

• Chemical, using pesticides.
• Biological, using biopreparations made on a live bacterial and fungal basis and involving natural predators that eat adult pests, their eggs, and larvae. These include ladybugs, riders, certain types wasps and birds, including sparrows, warblers, titmouses, wagtails and others.
• Folk decoctions, infusions, powders of appropriate anti-insecticide and anti-fungicide herbs, fruits, seeds.

General Approaches to Chemical Pest Control

It is a shame to realize, but the most common remains chemical method pest control. A solution prepared in 5-10 minutes, especially in a tank mixture, will rid the garden of pests in 2-3 sprays.

When using pesticides, you need to remember:

• All chemicals(solutions, powders) have a high degree of risk to human health, animals and beneficial insects,
• last processing chemicals ends a month or more before harvest,
• considering them Negative influence on health, it is better to treat trees and shrubs with a tank mixture, after checking the preparations for compatibility. Mixtures of pesticides will reduce the number of treatments and expand the list of simultaneously destroyed pests and diseases.

When starting work with a chemical preparation, especially a new one, carefully study the recommendations and act strictly according to them. Increasing the dose of the drug in solution, untimely use will not give a positive effect, but will adversely affect the state of health and product quality.

Remember! Main condition effective protection from pests when using pesticides - this is the exact implementation of instructions and recommendations for their use.

When working with pesticides, it is always necessary to work in overalls that protect against the ingress of pesticides. After working with drugs, take a shower and change clothes.

Sucking pest control

Chemical preparations against sucking pests

• Before bud break, fruit crops can be protected from pests by spraying with solutions of nitrofen and DNOC. Nitrafen can be replaced with Nisaran or Borneo preparations, which destroy pest eggs, and in more late dates and larvae.
• In the phase of bud swelling, before flowering and at its end, it is advisable to sprinkle the trees with 1% Bordeaux liquid or use a tank mixture of HOM and Fufanon preparations.
• Of the systemic chemicals that destroy the poisonous juice of the gastrointestinal tract of sucking pests such as aphids, scale insects, false scale insects, whitefly thrips, psyllids, it is effective to use according to the recommendations of actara, confidor, karbofos, rovikurt, benzophosphate. Karbofos and Aktellik are successfully used against ticks, including spider mite.
• Mospilan and prestige are dual action drugs: systemic and contact. They successfully destroy eggs, larvae and adults of pests.
• Contact preparations (require repeated spraying after rains and watering) arrivo, decis, karate, fastak, fury, cymbush, citkor, sherpa (approximately the same in chemical composition) effectively destroy not only sucking aphids, mushroom mosquitoes, thrips, whiteflies, but also gnawing pests.
• Thunder and thunder-2 are successfully used against ants and bears.
• Of the new preparations, sunmite is recommended against ticks and whiteflies at all phases of crop development, especially on apple trees.
• Stirrap in the targeted destruction of the spider mite.

Biological products against sucking pests

On my own garden plot to obtain ecological products, it is better to use biological preparations. Bioinsecticides do not affect human health. Do not harm animals and beneficial insects. They can be used for pre-harvest treatments, and some (planriz) even during harvest.

Of the bioinsecticides, the most effective and often used are bowerin, fitoverm, actofit, bitoxibacillin, lepidocide, bicol (see instructions). Verticillin has a particularly fast effect on aphids and whiteflies, and bitoxibacillin and Bicol on aphids and spider mites.

Gnawing pest control

If sucking pests suck out the juices of plants, then gnawing ones physically destroy the generative and vegetative organs of plants. The group of gnawing pests is made up of bud beetles, flower beetles, leaf beetles, weevils, click beetles, barbels. All types of codling moths damage fruits, and butterflies, passing through the stage of voracious caterpillars, short term able to destroy the green outfit of fruit and significantly reduce the yield. Adults of gnawing pests hibernate in fallen fruits, leaves, cut branches and shoots, in tree hollows and cracks in the bark. Here they lay eggs, from which, with the onset of heat, larvae and caterpillars hatch, devouring the green crown of trees.

Chemical preparations against gnawing pests

• Of the chemicals used against gnawing, the same chemicals are used as for protection against sucking pests: karbofos, benzophosphate, aktara, decis, fastak.
• Against leaf caterpillars ringed silkworm, winter moths, moths before bud break of fruit crops, treatment is carried out with DNOC or nitrafen. At the beginning of bud break, a suspension of gardona or (for younger individuals) eptobacterin, dendrobacillin is used.
• To protect against flower beetles in the period from bud break to budding, a suspension of phosphamide is used, against a glass case - an emulsion of phosalone.
• Codling moths and sawflies are effectively killed with antio emulsion. Purposefully against codling moths, you can use a suspension of Gordon, rovikurt, zolon.
• Trichlormetafos is recommended against sawflies and mining moths.

Biological preparations against gnawing pests

Of the other drugs, bitoxibacillin, boverin verticillium, summer resident, fitoverm, lepidocide are widely used. They effectively protect fruit crops from moths, thrips, whiteflies, codling moths, scoops, flower beetles and other pests. And wide compatibility with other biological products and chemicals makes them indispensable in the manufacture of tank mixes. Biological products are especially convenient for multi-collection berry- horticultural crops oh and vegetables.

Bioinsecticides combine systemic and contact action on pests. Acting according to the neurotoxin type, they cause paralysis and death of adult sucking and gnawing individuals. The duration of action of bioinsecticides is much shorter than chemical preparations, therefore they require more frequent treatments (after 10-15 days). The purchase of drugs and the time spent on treatments are increasing, but ... health is more expensive. The main condition for the effective use of biological products is the strict implementation of instructions and recommendations for dilution and periods of use.

Folk remedies for pest control

Ways to protect fruit crops from pests with folk remedies involves the preparation of infusions, decoctions and powders of insecticide herbs and herbs with antifungal properties. It should be noted that the prepared preparations are not as harmless as it seems. They are sometimes based on such potent alkaloid compounds that eating an unwashed apple or peach can result in severe poisoning. Some gardeners offer decoctions of hemlock, black henbane, hogweed, aconite, and other poisonous herbs. Judging by the rules of application, decoctions and infusions are the same chemicals, only at a lower concentration. Using people's councils be careful.

Rules for the use of folk methods of pest control:

• It is necessary to collect the aerial part of plants (stems, leaves, inflorescences) for the preparation of solutions at the time of the beginning or full flowering, and tubers, bulbs, roots and rhizomes - in early spring or late autumn. Dry naturally.
• Given the toxicity of some plants, it is necessary to prepare preparations from them (dry and wet) strictly according to the prescription and store them in places inaccessible to children and animals.
• For cooking, use special utensils that are not used for cooking.
• Bury residues and waste from solutions in the ground. They must be inaccessible to animals and birds.
• Plants are treated no more than 3 times per growing season. In epiphytotic cases, the number of treatments is increased by 1-2 sprays or dustings.
• Spraying and other treatments are carried out in the evening.
• Stop processing plants 20-30 days before harvesting and only absolutely non-poisonous plants 5-7 days before. During flowering and harvesting, solutions are not used.

Compositions of folk remedies

For the treatment of plants from pests, several compositions can be offered:

• To protect against spider mites, aphids work well by spraying healthy tops of potatoes and tomatoes with a decoction.
• Against aphids, suckers, spider mites can be cooked in hot water solution wood ash with laundry soap.
• Infusion onion peel effective against caterpillars, aphids, spider mites.
• Pour tobacco dust or shag hot water. Daily infusion with the addition of soap is effective against aphids, codling moths, suckers, leaf-eating caterpillars, spider mites, slugs.
• Against apple and fruit moths (the summer period of butterflies), suckers (after flowering), aphids use fumigation with tobacco dust. It is poured on small piles of slightly damp straw with garbage or heaps of waste and set on fire.
• An infusion of burdock leaves is used against caterpillars of whites and scoops.

Now compare the proposals of other "lovers of folk solutions." Eg:

To combat caterpillars and larvae, it is proposed to spray the trees with a mixture of solutions of aconite (wrestler), leaves and hemlock inflorescences. How harmless do you think this folk method is, given that plants are among the most poisonous representatives of the plant world?

It is almost impossible to list all the recommended compositions of herbs, roots, bulbs and fruits, chemical and biochemical preparations and formulations. But after reading the article, you can make your choice of measures to protect horticultural crops from pests.

Spraying the garden in the spring is one of the main agricultural activities. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows about it. Many homeowners approach this process formally in the spring, not really thinking about the main essence of the agronomic procedure. In such a case, spraying the garden in spring time can turn into a merciless and meaningless exercise. Everyone probably understands the great desire to protect your garden from various diseases and pests. In conditions middle lane Russia's fruit and berry crop is constantly threatened by at least 60-70 species different insects– pests, and about 20 species infectious diseases. People have in their hands effective methods fight them. But in this case, food and the environment can become dangerous for the person himself. Finding a balance is the main task of conducting spring work. In this article, we decided to tell you about how to spray the garden. in early spring from diseases and pests. All the means that we present here will be effective and, moreover, safe for the person himself.

Some extremes at the time of spraying

Refusal to process.

It should be recognized that the complete absence of large-scale preventive irrigation is far from the worst option. Naturally, this will be more reasonable than excess.

• You can relax a little, in case your personal plot is still young and has not yet been able to accumulate many different harmful substances and organisms.
• In your garden, you can plant resistant and unpretentious varieties. There are scab-free apple trees, problem-free roses, gooseberries without a sphere library, blackcurrants without red-headed aphids and mites, and strawberries without gray rot.
• It is necessary to constantly carry out various agrotechnical works (pruning, thinning, deoxidation, digging, mulching, fertilizing the soil, setting traps, etc.)
• It is very useful with the onset of spring and until the beginning of autumn to spray trees with various simulators and biological preparations: Zircon, Gumi, Epin, biopesticides Strobi and Fitoferon, microbiological preparations such as Fitosparin.
• Many proponents of organic farming may simply give up if a large number of crops are constantly dying in their garden. In this case, there is only one way out: the search for a compromise, namely, causing minimal harm when receiving maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of diseases and pests, not forgetting the environment.

All at once

How to spray the garden in the spring before blooming from everything? This question can be heard in the spring in every garden shop. Even the simplest question from some sensible salesperson: Do you need a pest or disease control? May cause a stupor in the buyer. Of course, some seller can sell the coveted product, to the great delight of the buyer. As we can see: there will be two results. And they are both, unfortunately, disappointing:

• There is practically no effect from processing.
• The garden will accumulate poisons.

Despite any advertising that is very convincing at first glance and our employment, it is necessary to stop for a couple of minutes and try to face the truth: there is no one super-ideal preparation and the timing of spraying the garden in the spring from pests and diseases.

Spring is a loose concept

In many garden recommendations it is necessary to divide the seasons into natural and calendar. For carrying out agrotechnical work, two main natural indicators are important (in different regions of our country, the dates will differ by a month or more) - the stage of development and the air temperature in the garden in spring:

• Until the kidneys swell.
• Budding.
• Bloom.
• Green cone - the beginning of the appearance of leaves.
• Young ovaries.

Such a concept as spring spraying is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between the summer and spring periods. But still, two important stages can be determined: the treatment of plants before the buds swell on them and the period after this event (when buds appear and leaves are advanced).

When, how and with what to spray the garden from diseases and pests

by the most early term is the dormant bud phase. The very first spraying should be carried out in early spring when low temperatures in the garden (+3, +6 degrees, or slightly higher). But this must be done before the buds swell, still on dormant plants. It exists almost everywhere different speed snowmelt and the height of its cover. Yes, besides, and cultures wake up after winter in different time. Based on this, sometimes it is not possible to meet one particular day. Honeysuckle and black currants begin to wake up quite early from winter sleep. but as for strawberries, covered grapes and roses, these crops can for a long time be under snow cover.

Plant exceptions.

Which garden plants you can not spray in this period of time.

• Honeysuckle very rarely gets sick and practically does not suffer from pests.
• The same goes for blackberries.
• In the event that modern blackcurrant varieties are planted on your backyard that are not susceptible to bud mites and powdery mildew, then there is no point in spraying in early spring.
• It is not necessary to spray fungicides also on those varieties of gooseberries that endure the sphere library.
• On many household plots sea ​​buckthorn is also not susceptible to diseases.
• If your pears do not appear in the garden every year serious problems, then they also do not need to be processed.
• If your garden used to have good and prosperous years, then you will not need protection from diseases for those apple varieties that have moniliosis tolerance and scab immunity.

Many perennial flowers and ornamental shrubs requires an individual approach.

One of the most important points is to identify a number of problem-free plants that do not require additional care: for a person - saving his personal time, money and effort. And most importantly, benefit environment. Chemical processing gardening should be carried out at real risk.

Spray coverage

In this article, you can also learn about when to spray the garden from pests in the spring. Until the buds swell, fruit trees need to be processed and berry plants(gooseberries, plums, strawberries, raspberries, cherries, cherry plums, sweet cherries, apricots, peaches and grapes), flower beds and a rose garden. In a given period of time, this impact will mainly be aimed at protecting against various diseases, and partly at pests that are still sleeping at this time.

What should be treated: optimal spraying methods

Hot water.

Having brought a bucket of water to a boil, you must immediately pour it into a watering can and water the blackberry and currant bushes of any color. This procedure can partially destroy some types of wintering diseases and pests. Water with a temperature of +65 degrees must be poured over strawberry bushes from a watering can.

"Blue spray": Bordeaux liquid.

This event is very old. It was invented almost two centuries ago. But to this day it is the most effective and useful. It is directed against almost all bacterial and fungal infections on the soil surface and on all crops. This procedure is carried out using a strong Bordeaux liquid (at a concentration of approximately 3% (but not one percent, as for green foliage). In the instructions for this drug, you can find inconsistencies in the ratio blue vitriol and lime in solution. This is due to the fact that the original recipe used quicklime. And now they use slaked (or calcium hydroxide). And the latter requires much more. After you have purchased Bordeaux mixture, it is better to follow the enclosed instructions clearly. In the event that this instruction says about the preparation of a one percent solution. As for the three percent, in this case it is necessary to reduce the amount of water by a factor of three. If you purchase the necessary ingredients yourself, you should take 100 g per 3 liters of water. quicklime and copper sulfate. An alternative to this drug is burgundy liquid. The solution must be prepared in the same way as Bordeaux liquid, only soda (food or soda ash) must be used instead of lime. In rare cases, a spoonful of sugar or soap should be added. In addition, there is an option where soda is replaced ammonia or mustard powder. Next, you need to give the resulting mixture a little boil. After that, processing should be carried out immediately.

Drug 30+.

The official manufacturer is NPF Sober. This preparation is a vaseline oil, which was previously used to combat the scale insect in early spring in Krasnodar Territory. As a result, it turned out that this remedy does not pose any danger to humans, but it disrupts the breathing of insects that hibernate on the branches of trees and shrubs. After spraying in the spring, both scale insects and other insects and their larvae wintering in crowns die. One liter of this drug must be diluted in 2 buckets of water and then sprinkled with the resulting solution on the garden, spending about one liter per bush and up to 5 liters per large tree. This tool very dangerous for bees.

More spring spraying options

Not sure at what temperature you can spray your garden in spring? Then it is worth saying that they do it in early autumn. In the spring, a strong solution of urea is also used (600 g per bucket). Sometimes copper sulphate (50g) is added. Iron sulfate is also used for spraying. It is often used to control moss and lichen, and also to control diseases on roses, vines, and fruit trees. One kg iron sulphate must be dissolved in 20 liters of water.

The two remedies described above are very scalding. And many gardeners advise using them not in early spring, but in late autumn. In addition, treatment with these preparations in the spring can delay the blooming of buds in the garden for a week or two.

On a note! Many agronomists do not recommend using folk remedies such as diesel fuel, salt or kerosene. Special attention should be given to Nitrofen. This remedy has long been recognized as a dangerous carcinogen. It was banned for use in most countries of the world, including our country.

Spraying at the stage of bud break and bud extension

In order to find out how to spray the garden in the spring before bud break, you must carefully read this article. Here you can see a lot of interesting things for yourself. Now it is worth reporting those spraying rules that apply at the stage of bud break and bud formation. During this period of time, many people gradually wake up from hibernation. harmful organisms both small and large. If the spring is rainy and cool, then this will contribute to the development of various diseases. And if the weather is sunny and warm, then insects begin to appear.

Spraying against diseases (fungicides)

Preparations with copper.

For complete processing it is not too late to use the Bordeaux mixture - only at a concentration of 1%. Grapes, flowers, apple and pear trees, plums, cherries in early spring must be processed with HOM or Abiga-Peak.

Biopreparations.

Many gardeners in the spring time are engaged in the first two treatments, using drugs such as Alirin (fruit trees, strawberries), phytosporin (they process everything), Fitolavin (apple trees). This group also includes such a tool as Strobi. The drug is a fungicide of natural origin. it is applied on a pear and an apple-tree at the beginning of its vegetation.

Drug Prognosis (and other drugs with propiconazole).

Products of identical composition: Agrolekar, Forecast, Propi Plus, Chistoflor. These drugs are modern fungicides that are not very toxic. They carry out the processing of berries in the budding phase: raspberries, strawberries (from gray rot), gooseberries, currants.

Chistotsvet (and other products with difenoconazole).

Similar content is represented by drugs such as Raek, Chistotsvet, Keeper, Skor, Diskor, Plantenol. They are used on stone fruit and pome fruits, as well as on roses and other flowers.

Topaz (Penconazole).

Topaz is a preventive measure in springtime powdery mildew on flowers, gooseberries and currants.

Thiovit Jet.

This drug protects currants, roses and apple trees from powdery mildew.

Horus.

It is used for the processing of grapes and all stone and pome crops. Not very dangerous for birds, bees and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: since during this period of time there are neither caterpillars, nor aphids, nor spider mites. It makes sense to use poison only if a large number of pests were observed in the past year (raspberry beetle, weevil, sea buckthorn fly, leafworms, codling moths, etc.). spraying at the time of flowering is impossible.

Poisons are pyrethroids.

These are Spark Double Effect, Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphate poison (malathion).

These are Iskra M, Fufanon, Karbofos.

Double poisons.

This is Inta-CM, Alatar,

Copper preparations are advised to be used separately. And other fungicides can be mixed with pesticides.

Finally

Today, thanks to this article, you were able to learn how to spray trees in the garden in spring. We hope that these measures will be able to protect your garden from all sorts of pests and diseases. As a result of these activities, your garden will be able to bring you a rich harvest of delicious fruits.

Spring is the beginning horticultural work For . Not only nature is awakening, but also various insects - pests that prevent fruit trees and shrubs from growing and bearing fruit. To keep pests on suburban area was as small as possible, it is important not to lose time, and to carry out the processing of plants on time. How to process trees and bushes spring in the garden from pests? The answer to this question will help you save not only the plant, but also its fruits.

How to treat trees and bushes in the spring in the garden from pests?

Processing trees and shrubs - what to use?

With the onset of heat and with the snow melting, you can proceed to the spring inspection of fruit trees and shrubs, with a view to their further processing. First of all, it is necessary to cut off excess diseased branches and branches, clean the trunk from dead bark and lichen present on it. Cleaned places should be treated with garden pitch or other special means.

• Whitewashing plants. Usually, a solution of slaked lime is used for whitewashing, which is applied in two layers to enhance the effect. Currently, products for whitewashing trees and shrubs containing copper sulfate and PVA glue have appeared on sale. This composition is more stable than lime mortar, and protects against pests and disinfects the bark.

• Digging the soil. 3-4 days before spraying trees, you need to dig the soil around them in order to bring pests to the surface, where they will be destroyed.

• spraying. You can start spraying all trees and shrubs from the end of March. Processing is best done in the evening.

For the treatment of trees and shrubs, various preparations are used. From chemicals The following types are most commonly used.

• Even before the buds swell (better at the end of March), all the trees and bushes on the site should be sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (100 grams are taken per bucket of water). This will help to avoid fungal diseases, the formation of mosses and lichens, black cancer, scab. Bordeaux liquid also helps well. These are the most popular and proven tools.
• To protect grapes from spotted necrosis, anthracnose and bacterial cancer, it must be treated with an aqueous solution of iron sulfate (200 grams per bucket of water), spraying the vine and the soil under the plant. It is necessary to carry out the procedure before the swelling of the kidneys, in the period until mid-April.
• Pears and apple trees must be treated before flowering with Iskra-M, Fufanon, Karbofos preparations. They are able to prevent the appearance of ticks, weevils, flower beetles, suckers. If the pests have already settled on the plants, then the treatment must be carried out twice. The second time - after flowering.

But often, summer residents are used to process horticultural crops, and folk methods. For example, to get rid of a spider mite, an infusion of onion peel is used. Against caterpillars and aphids - an infusion of garlic. Laundry soap and ash diluted in hot water help to cope with aphids, sucker, powdery mildew.

In order to qualitatively process trees and shrubs, they usually use hand pump or a sprayer, holding it during the procedure at a distance of 80 - 100 centimeters from the plants. From such a distance, the solution will fall on the leaves and branches in the form of small drops. When spraying, for self-protection against pesticides, you should use a respirator (or gauze bandage), goggles, a hat and gloves. Spraying of trees is carried out from top to bottom, first the upper branches, and then the lower ones. After the branches, the trunk and the area under the tree are treated.

So, now you know how to process trees and bushes spring in the garden from pests? But it must be remembered that processing should be done only with a newly prepared preparation.

See also video:

Spraying trees and shrubs in spring

For the successful prosperity and fruiting of the garden, it is required to provide proper care behind every plant. One of the most important steps in caring is processing trees in spring. At this time of the year, you need to carry out several sprays and whitewash the plants to protect the garden from pests and diseases. In this article, we will consider in more detail all the stages of processing, preparations and technology, as well as give a spraying schedule.

If you don’t want to bother too much: spend time and effort caring for plants, use the services of professional gardeners. We offer the following services: fruit spraying, processing coniferous trees spring, pruning, fertilizing and other measures to ensure ideal conditions for every bush and tree to live! :)

As soon as the snows melted

The first processing of trees in the spring is carried out even before bud break. With the onset of warm days, gardeners begin to clean up the territory, remove heaters from the stems, and prune. At the same time, the first work was carried out to protect plants from various pests.

The required step is lime treatment of trees in spring. This procedure will protect the stems from sunburn on hot days, and will also serve as a prophylaxis against insects. The fact is that many insects hibernate in the pores of the bark. Before whitewashing, the trunks are cleaned, therefore, the wintering places of insects are destroyed. After cleaning, the bark is carefully covered lime mortar, which in turn burns eggs and pupae. After carrying out this procedure, the chances of survival for insects that overwintered in the bole are equal to zero.

It is considered effective treatment of trees in early spring with diesel fuel. Plantations are evenly sprayed with this substance. Diesel fuel forms an oily film on the surface of plants, thereby blocking access to oxygen for insects. Most of the eggs and pupae die within a few hours after spraying.

Before bud break

The next step in garden care is the processing of fruit trees in the spring before bud break. The procedure is carried out in order to fight against hatching insect larvae. Also, the event is carried out to destroy pathogens of various diseases.

At that time, experienced gardeners fight the following diseases:

• on pome crops - scab, cytosporosis, anthracnose, black cancer;
• on stone fruits - moniliosis, cytosporosis, clasterosporiasis, clasterosporiasis, coccomycosis.

Before and during bud break, trees are treated in spring against pests using special insecticides. For efficiency, they are added to fungicides and the resulting mixture is sprayed, which provides simultaneous protection from both insects and various diseases.

Tree processing in spring video

The garden is gradually waking up after a long winter hibernation, the buds are about to begin to bloom. Now, in spring, fruit trees and shrubs especially need the protection and attention of the gardener. How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring, how to help our beloved "plants" to cure diseases, protect against pests and adverse climatic conditions, we understand together with experienced gardeners of our portal, who have accumulated volumes over the years of gardening useful material about this theme.

In this article, we will look at:

1. How to prepare a remedy for spring garden spraying at home;
2. Calendar of garden treatments in early spring in spring. When to carry out the first treatment;
3. How to prepare Bordeaux liquid;
4. How to deal with fungal diseases;

Member of our portal Eleni three grandchildren, so in his family they give great importance the safety of fruits and berries, and “no chemicals” are used at all. The question of how to spray fruit trees and shrubs in spring does not arise in this family: the treatment of the garden from diseases and pests is done only with safe home remedies.

Home remedies for spraying fruit trees and shrubs:

1. Infusion of garlic;
2. Infusion of onion peel.
   Green soap is added to these infusions for better stickiness.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted in 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder, poured with water. The mixture is insisted for a day, stirring from time to time, 2 tablespoons of green soap are added, and diluted in 10 liters of water.

It is also popular to treat currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but boiling water, from a boiled kettle), which is carried out even before bud break. Try to start processing with this - surprisingly, boiling water is no less effective than special substances.

HelgaFORUMHOUSE User

This is an old way of destroying bud mite clutches and powdery mildew germs.

How to help our beloved "plants", how to process them in order to cure diseases, protect them from pests and adverse climatic conditions? Let's see what experienced gardeners of our portal are doing.

1. How to prepare a spring spray for the garden at home.
2. Processing calendar fruit plants spring.
3. How to make Bordeaux mixture.
4. How to deal with mushroom plants.
5. Why can't you give up spring treatments garden.

Treatment with home remedies

Member of our portal Eleni three grandchildren, so his family attaches great importance to the safety of fruits and berries, and "no chemicals" are used at all. In early spring, he sprays all his garden bushes and trees with infusions of garlic and onion peel, to which he adds green soap for better stickiness.

An infusion of onion peels is made as follows: 350 grams of onion peels are poured with two liters of water, brought to a boil and cooled. The resulting solution is diluted with 10 liters of water with 2 tablespoons of green soap (sold in garden stores).

Garlic infusion recipe: 300 grams of whole, unpeeled garlic heads are passed through a meat grinder, poured with water. The mixture is insisted for a day, stirring from time to time, add 2 tablespoons of green soap.

Both of these infusions are used for spring spraying of all fruit crops.

It is also popular to treat currant and gooseberry bushes with boiling water (not hot water, but boiling water, from a boiled kettle), which is carried out even before the buds open.