Orange dust on roses. Diseases of roses - description and treatment with photos. Bacterial cancer on roses
Care mistakes, pests and diseasesPest. spider mite
The main difficulty in caring for indoor roses- control of this pest. It is almost impossible to avoid its occurrence. To make the pest appear less often, you need to often spray the plants, bathe them in the shower, and maintain high humidity.
It is because of the lack of moisture that the pest appears most often in autumn and winter. Roses that are kept in mini-greenhouses in winter get sick much less often.
Symptoms . The mites appear on the underside of the leaves and appear as small individual dots of red, red or dark brown. If you spray a rose and look very carefully, you can see how they move. In addition to dots, larvae can be distinguished: they are light, white-green in color. The leaves of the rosette are covered with dots, as if the thinnest cobweb appears on the processes. Young leaves are precisely punctured with a needle, first turn yellow, then brown, and eventually fall off. First of all, the tick starts on young shoots.
From natural folk methods garlic infusion helps: 170 g of finely chopped or grated garlic is infused in 1 liter of water for 5 days, in a tightly closed container in dark place. A solution is prepared for spraying: take 1 teaspoon and dilute in a liter of water, add a few drops of ammonia.
Tobacco infusion is also used to treat diseased plants (a pack of cigarettes per liter of water). Insist for a day, then sprayed so that it does not fall on the soil. You can try powdering the bushes with dry mustard or wood ash.
Frequent bathing of bushes and even soaking in water are very effective. To soak the rose, you need to cover the ground in a pot with polyethylene and lower the green part into a fairly wide and deep bowl with clean water, preferably settled.
Pest. Shield (or false shield) .
Symptoms : Leaves and stems covered with brown plaques, which can be easily separated by hand, the plant sheds leaves, does not bloom, lags behind in development. Dies without treatment.
Treatment . Any insecticidal preparations.
Pest. Beetles.
Symptoms . Beetles gnaw holes in the leaves, in addition, often the insect itself can be found inside the flower, which gnaws its way out.
Treatment. Actellik, feverfew, rotenone, preparations containing karbofos.
Pest. caterpillars .
Symptoms . Caterpillars can both gnaw small holes in the leaves and gnaw them to the ground.
Treatment . Collect and destroy caterpillars or treat plants with a preparation containing karbofos.
Pest. carved aphid
Symptoms . Colonies of small sucking insects; found on buds and young shoots, they are clearly visible. Affected buds and leaves are deformed, curl unnaturally, dry out.
Treatment . Spraying with a soap solution (especially insecticidal soap) or tobacco infusion helps well. Of the chemicals, Actellik (20 drops per liter of water), pyrethrum, rotenone, and preparations containing karbofos are used. If there are few aphids, you can bring and plant a few on the bushes. ladybugs that feed on aphids. Against aphids and spider mites, a solution of yarrow is used. For its preparation, a flowering yarrow is collected, dried, crushed, insisted (1/2 liter jar of dried grass pour water) for 3-4 days, a small piece of green soap is added and the plant is sprayed.
Pest. rose sawfly .
Symptoms . The pest eats young shoots and buds, the plant lags behind in development, the leaves are deformed. The females lay their eggs under the bark of the plant.
Struggle . Treatment with Fufanol or a drug containing karbofos.
Disease. dark spots
Symptoms . A fungal disease that manifests itself in the form of small dark spots on the leaves, the affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. Roses are most susceptible to this disease. yellow color.
Treatment . This disease develops in conditions of high humidity. Do not let moisture get on the leaves - water the ground, not the whole plant. Remove and destroy all infected leaves. Use fungicidal (antifungal) soap or other fungicidal preparations. With spotting, topsin or foundationol helps.
Disease. powdery mildew .
Symptoms . The color of the leaves, young shoots and buds becomes grayish, or they are, as it were, covered with a white powder. Young leaves may even become deformed. Powdery mildew often appears when warm days are followed by cold nights.
Struggle . Cut and destroy all damaged parts of the plant. Treat with a fungicide or benomyl.
Disease. Mold .
Symptoms . The lower part of the trunk and shoots are covered with white bloom. Mold can be on the surface of the earth in a pot, its bottom. Leaves become blotchy and dry up. Without treatment, the plant rots and dies.
Struggle . Fungicide, avoid excessive soil moisture, too frequent fertilization, ventilate the room more often.
Disease. Bacterial cancer, viral infection .
Symptoms . A viral infection manifests itself in the form of yellow stripes or spots on the leaves, which appear at the beginning of the season; with viral cancer, the roots and lower part of the plant begin to rot.
Struggle . If a viral infection is suspected, dig up the plant and destroy it. Plant new roses in new soil away from the infected area. Suitable chemical control agents do not exist.
care mistakes
Symptoms
Cause . Insufficient watering, low humidity.
Treatment . Cut off all dried branches to a height of 3-4 cm from the main trunk, as well as all dry twigs and yellowed leaves. Water the rose, put the pot under plastic bag to provide high humidity under the shelter. When new shoots appear, start airing the greenhouse, accustom the rose to dry air. If the rose has withered but not shed its leaves, try dipping the entire pot in water for 5 minutes and misting the plant, or even soaking the entire pot for 1 to 2 hours in a tub wrapped in a plastic bag. If symptoms appear in autumn, don't worry - the rose is getting ready for winter.
Symptoms . The rosette dries up, sheds leaves, the buds wither, the shoots turn brown, rot.
Cause . Too abundant watering, frequent spraying in a cold room.
Treatment . It is more difficult to reanimate a rose that has been “filled in” than “underfilled”. You need to take it out of the pot, clean the roots from the ground and inspect - if not everything is rotten, cut off the damaged ones and transplant the rose into a new land (the old one can be sour), water it moderately, but not allowing the coma to dry completely.
Symptoms . The rosette dries up, sheds leaves, the buds wither, the ends of the shoots turn brown, dry up.
Cause . Changes in living conditions, lighting, temperature, humidity.
Treatment
. Return the plant to its previous conditions (for example, to the window where it stood before), spray more often, make a greenhouse, pruning after flowering.
Symptoms . The rosette dries up, sheds the lower leaves, the buds wither or do not appear at all, the ends of the shoots turn brown, dry up.
Cause . Pot not big enough
Treatment . Transfer.
Rostova L.V. "Atlas of miniature roses" - M .: Knizhkin Dom, Eksmo Publishing House, 2004. - 80 p., ill.
Like all cultivated plants, roses suffer from diseases and are affected by pests. However, this should not be taken as something inevitable. As a rule, pests pose a particular danger to roses growing in unfavorable conditions for the culture. Sometimes the decisive role is played by certain weather, and more often - a combination of these factors.
Of the pests, the most common are: rose aphid, thrips, spider mite, rose leaf cicada; roses also hurt different kinds sawflies, nutcrackers, beetles, weevils, bronzovka, etc.
High temperatures, for example, can promote the reproduction of some pests, and prolonged wet weather causes the spread of fungal diseases.
If, moreover, roses grow in an inappropriate place for them, then diseases are inevitable:
- Gray rot, for example, spreads especially quickly in wet weather, besides, many gardeners plant roses thickly, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain.
- Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor the defeat of black spot.
- Powdery mildew, and from pests - spider mites, on the contrary, love dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these pests.
Pests and diseases of roses with photos, descriptions and methods of treatment - to your attention on this page.
Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew and how to get rid of it
To get started, check out the photo and description of rose disease powdery mildew, developing due to a lack of calcium or drying out of the soil.
powdery mildew. Powdery coating appears on young leaves, shoots and buds; their thickening and curvature are observed.
Powdery mildew on roses is a mycelium and sporulation of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease overwinters in the form of mycelium in the kidneys. The development of the disease contributes to excessive nitrogen fertilizer, lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold damp soils.
See photos of powdery mildew on roses below:
Indoors, this rose disease develops especially strongly in rooms with insufficient lighting, humid stale air. Sudden changes in temperature, drafts, drying out of soil in pots and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants reduce their resistance to disease. Tea roses and varieties with more delicate foliage are especially affected by this fungal disease of roses.
How to get rid of powdery mildew on roses and prevent re-infection?
When the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes: "Topaz", "Fundazol" or "Soon". You can use the systemic drug "Raek" with long-term preventive and therapeutic effects.
Rust on roses: a description of the disease and how to treat it
Rust. The affected parts of the shoots are bent and thickened.
As can be seen in the photo, with this disease of roses in the spring, orange dust appears on the stems of the blossoming buds and at the root collar:
These are spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in the tissues of plants infected in previous years. Rust on roses develops most intensively in years with a warm and humid spring.
Rust fungi not only take away nutrients in a plant, but also greatly disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and worsen metabolism.
In summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form on the underside of the leaves, which can take several generations and infect new plants.
In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small rounded black pads. With a strong defeat of the disease, the leaves turn completely yellow and fall prematurely.
The spread of rust fungus spores occurs with air flow, water, and planting material.
How to treat rust on roses and when is the best time to treat plants?
For rust control, one-way nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In autumn, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected foliage, and in early spring (before bud break), spray the plants and the soil around them. iron vitriol(1 - 1.5%). The soil under the bushes should be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.
It is recommended carefully and in a timely manner, affected by the stem form of rust. To treat this disease of roses, from the moment the buds open, re-spray the plants (1% - th) or its substitutes (Oxyhom, Abiga-Peak, Hom, copper oxychloride, Ordan, Topaz).
How to deal with rose leaf black spot disease
Black leaf spot (marsonina). In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots form on the leaves. different sizes. The leaves turn brown and often fall prematurely. Spots may also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.
Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes begin to grow again, as a result of which they are greatly weakened and bloom poorly the next year.
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of the disease, forming radiantly growing strands. This radiance in case of black spot disease of rose leaves is clearly visible at the edge of the spots. Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor the defeat of black spot.
Roses are more ill when planted thickly, in shaded places, with poor ventilation of the site.
How to deal with black spot on rose leaves and when to start processing plants?
Measures to combat this disease include: proper agricultural practices that increase plant resistance; careful removal of affected leaves in autumn and burning them; spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust. Treatments should be started at the first signs of the disease and repeated after each rain or heavy dew.
Gray rot on roses: description and how to fight
The following describes the rose rot disease, and how to deal with it in the garden.
Gray rot, for example, in wet weather it multiplies especially quickly, and given that many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering. This fungal disease primarily affects the buds and pedicels. A whitish-gray fluffy coating appears on them. The buds do not open, they rot.
Fogs and morning dews, as well as excessive sprinkling watering, especially in the evening, contribute to the development of gray rot of roses. With excessive moisture, the entire bush can get sick and die.
Do not plant roses next to strawberries that suffer from gray mold more often than other plants.
How to deal with gray mold on roses using effective means?
At the first signs of the disease, spray the affected plants with a solution of the Euparen multi preparation. Also water the soil under the bushes with a solution of Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B or Gamair.
Bacterial cancer on roses: photos and how to deal with the disease
bacterial cancer. On the root collar and roots of plants, growths of various sizes are formed. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter.
See what bacterial cancer looks like on roses - growths consist of soft tissue, have an uneven tuberous surface:
In the process of decomposition by bacteria, the color gradually changes from white to brown. There are also hard lignified growths that grow every year.
The above-ground part is less often affected - trunks and branches, mainly at and standard remontant roses. Here tuberculate nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.
The pathogen that causes bacterial canker on roses affects many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on the roots of plants, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.
The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilizer, wounded roots, and alkaline soil reaction.
When transplanting plants with an affected root neck, they must be destroyed, and the growths on the lateral roots should be cut off. After pruning, the roots are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and then washed in water and dipped in a liquid mixture of clay and sand. With stem cancer, depressed necrotic spots first appear, on which the bark cracks, then their edges thicken. Affected stems die off if the edges of the spots close.
Burn of leaves and branches of a rose: description and fight against the disease
The burn of leaves and branches of roses is a fungal disease. Reddish spots appear on the branches at first, later - spots darkening in the middle; red-brown edging persists for a long time. Growing, the spots ring the branches. Above the affected area, tissue influxes may form. Sick branches usually dry out in the second half of summer.
The development of "burn" contributes to excess moisture under the winter shelter.
To avoid severe damage to roses, the shelter should be removed earlier in the spring. Sick and frosted branches must be cut and burned in a timely manner, and plants should be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust.
Correct agrotechnics (timely application of fertilizers, loosening and watering) contributes to the reduction of the harmfulness of the disease, it is necessary to achieve good maturation of the wood until the end of the vegetation of the plants.
For the winter, plants should be covered, if possible, in dry weather in such a way that increased humidity is not created under the shelter.
Before shelter, unripened shoots and leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution of ferrous sulfate.
Cytosporosis: photo and treatment of roses from the disease
Cytosporosis This fungal disease is ubiquitous. It affects roses, as well as pome and stone fruit trees, and a number of ornamental shrubs.
Cytosporosis is also called infectious drying. In some years, it leads not only to the drying of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. Bushes weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely pruning, etc. are especially susceptible to this disease.
First, the causative agent of the disease settles on dying individual sections of the cortex. On the entire area of the affected bark, large, clearly visible orange-red tubercles appear - pycnidia of the fungus protruding from under the skin.
Cracks form on the border of the affected and healthy tissue. The causative agent of the disease first moves up through the tissues and vessels of plants, and after the branches dry up, down, killing the cells adjacent to the zone of its distribution with its toxins.
The disease of cytosporosis should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with a general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first of all necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage. And also regularly carry out activities that increase the viability of plants - timely and correct pruning, fertilizing, tillage, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches that have signs of disease with a capture of up to 5 cm of the healthy part of the branch.
How to treat roses from this disease in order to contain the spread of infection?
Early spring pruning of plants, spraying roses with 0.5% Abiga-Peak or 3% Bordeaux liquid over a green cone to some extent restrain the spread and development of the disease.
Pest of flowers and buds of roses green aphid
Aphid green damages roses and wild roses, harms in greenhouses and open field. The pest among other aphid species is quite large, shiny, green, sometimes brown with very long black antennae.
In the spring, the larvae of these pests of rosebuds emerge from the overwintered eggs, turning into wingless females. Among subsequent generations, winged female settlers appear, flying to other plants, where they form new colonies. Ten generations or more develop during the year.
These pests of roses in the open field usually increase in June, and they harm until the end of summer. Aphids settle mainly at the ends of young shoots and buds, there are few aphids on leaves. Damaged by green aphids, rose shoots are often twisted, and the buds do not open.
The treatment of roses from these pests begins when the first larvae appear and is repeated as needed in two to three weeks until the aphid disappears completely. For this purpose, use: "Iskra Double Effect", "Iskra-M" or "Confidor", "Commander", "Tanrek", "Bison".
An essential advantage of the listed preparations against pests of rose flowers is their high efficiency even in hot weather, a systemic mechanism of action, rapid penetration into plant tissues and not being washed off by rain.
In nature, aphids are destroyed by lacewings and ladybugs.
Spider mite on roses: photo and how to get rid of it
spider mite on a rose is especially dangerous for roses in dry, hot summers. The optimal conditions for its development are the temperature + 29 ... + 31 ° with air humidity below 35%. Under such conditions, the number of ticks increases rapidly, because every 10-15 days a new generation of the pest appears.
As you can see in the photo, the spider mite on the rose sucks the cell sap from the leaves, as a result of which small light spots (pricks) appear on them, the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off:
How to get rid of spider mites on a rose by spraying?
The most effective in the fight against spider mites are: Fufanon and Iskra-M. Spraying roses in the presence of a tick must be repeated after 10-12 days until its harmfulness is reduced. If you use Thiovit Jet or colloidal sulfur in the fight against powdery mildew, then these drugs inhibit the reproduction of ticks.
Rose leafhopper: description and treatment of roses from a pest
Below you will find a description of the cicada rose pest and learn about the fight against it in your summer cottage.
Rose leafhopper. The larvae of the rose leafhopper settle on the underside of the leaves, sucking out the juice. The upper surface of the leaves changes color, they turn white, acquiring a marble color. With a large number of pests, damaged leaves fall prematurely. Roses growing in warm sheltered places especially suffer from leafhoppers.
The pest himself small insect white-yellow color with two pairs of wings, which in a calm state fold over the back like a roof. The length of an adult insect is 3.5 mm, the width is 0.7 mm.
Look at the photo - this pest of roses resembles an apple blotch:
The larva is white or pale yellow with a wedge-shaped abdomen. The length of the larva is 2 - 3 mm, the width is 0.8 mm.
Eggs hibernate on branches at the base of the buds and in forks. The larvae appear during bud break. Develop during May-June. Unlike aphid larvae and psyllids, they are very mobile: disturbed, they quickly run away to the opposite side of the leaf.
At the end of June, the larvae develop wing rudiments and turn into nymphs. In early July, leafhoppers fledge, adult insects appear. Winged leafhoppers, as well as larvae and nymphs, settle on the underside of the leaf, sucking the juice out of them. After fledging, the adult leafhopper leaves the leaf on which it has fed and flies to grass and other plants or branches.
On leaves damaged by cicadas - whitish with marble colors - white skins remain on the underside after molting of larvae and nymphs.
In addition to roses, leafhoppers damage rose hips and other plants from the Rosaceae family.
How to treat roses from these pests to protect plants?
In pest control, use the same drugs as in the fight against aphids. When spraying roses against pests, make sure that the underside of the leaf is carefully covered with a poison solution.
Rose sawfly and leaf cutter bee on roses
Here you can find a photo description of rose pests - rose sawfly and leaf cutter bee.
sawflies(rosaceous, slimy, comb-like, descending) eat leaves from the edges or scrape off the upper skin of the leaf, eat holes in the leaves. And the descending sawfly, having appeared at the top of the young shoot, penetrates the shoot, grinds a passage up to 4 cm long there, as a result, the shoot hangs, the leaves on it wither. Sawflies overwinter in the soil in cocoons.
To combat these pests, the same preparations are used as against aphids, and spraying with the Lightning preparation also gives a high effect.
leaf cutter bee. On the leaves of roses and wild roses in late June - July, you can see correctly cut oval or completely round holes.
This is the work of the leaf-cutter bee, which uses them to build its nest. Having chosen a suitable prepared cavity - an abandoned bee's mink, a barbel's move or an earthworm's mink - the bee begins to clog it with carelessly cut pieces of rough leaves of oak, grapes, hawthorn. This plug serves to protect the socket.
After the cork is made, the bee begins to cut oval pieces more tender leaves roses, . Sitting on a leaf, she, like scissors, carefully “cuts” it, starting from the edge and gradually turning in a circle. First of big leaves, covering about a third of the circumference of the channel, the outer layer of the cell is made, so that the individual pieces overlap each other, and their lower ends are bent, forming the bottom of the cell. After that, with smaller pieces of leaves, the builder closes the gaps left between the first pieces and thickens the walls.
In order to seal the cell filled with food, the bee cuts out perfectly round pieces of leaves. In this case, the diameter of the first of them is exactly equal to the diameter of the cell, and the subsequent ones are cut out large and turn out to be concave inward, forming the bottom of the next cell. The first cell is followed by the second, and so on.
The largest nest of the leaf-cutter bee has up to 17 cells. In total, it takes more than 1000 pieces of leaves to build a nest, including cork.
The finished nest of a bee - leaf cutter is a long cylinder, easily breaking up into separate cells. The leaves from which each of them is made are easy to disassemble. Later it is more difficult to do this, because, pupating, the larva releases a sticky liquid between the pieces of leaves, which, when solidified, holds them together.
You can protect roses from this bee by spraying plants in the late evenings with one of the preparations that destroy wasps ("Super Fas", "Otos"),
A new tool has appeared - the bait from the wasps "Adamant". Wasps are also repelled by the drug "Sovka-Zh". In the ground, nests can be filled with boiling water.
Beetles on roses: weevils and bronzovka
The most dangerous beetles on roses are weevil and bronze.
Weevils (leaf beetle). These are pests that gnaw on the edges of the leaves of all types of roses - beetles of rather large sizes (up to 1 cm). They are black and gray and flightless. They lead an active lifestyle at night, and during the day they hide under lumps of soil. That's why we don't see them. But not only weevil beetles are dangerous for roses, but also their legless larvae, just as large, ivory. The larvae live exclusively in the ground and eat the roots.
With a large number of pests, rose bushes may die. Due to severe damage to the leaves, their effective area, and the plants wither, and then there are weakened roots.
Weevils are especially dangerous for bushes growing in the shade of trees, in dense plantings, with poor ventilation, and also for old bushes weakened by time and poor agricultural practices.
Beetles can be dealt with by spraying roses with one of the insecticides at sunset in the evening. Beetles can be collected by hand after dark by the light of a flashlight, of course, if there are not very many of them yet.
Bronzing golden. This brilliant green beetle with a copper-gold tint is very fond of yellow and white roses. The beetle is quite large (10-15 mm long and 12-14 mm wide). From the underside - bronze-green color with a metallic sheen. On the elytra there are transverse thin, irregular shape, white stripes.
Beetles damage flowers by eating stamens and pistils, nibbling petals.
Gardeners call it "Maybeetle". The larva lives in the ground, it is six-legged, thick, white, up to 60 mm long, very similar to the May beetle larva, but, unlike the latter, it feeds on humus and does not damage the root.
At the end of summer, the larvae pupate, beetles emerge from them, which spend the winter in the soil, and fly out the next summer.
Beetles fly from May to August, damaging flowers not only of roses, but also of white lilies and fruit plants.
Since plants cannot be sprayed with pesticides during the flowering period, the main measure to combat bronzovka is the manual collection of beetles early in the morning, when they do not fly, but sit motionless on flowers.
Walnut and scoop on roses: photo and spraying from pests
Nutworker. These galls form insect pests. They are able to destroy the entire crop of wild rose, to deplete the bush. With severe damage, growth decreases, winter hardiness of plants decreases. Nutweeds hibernate as larvae in damaged fruits. The years of adult insects and infection of young ovaries comes in late May - early June.
In the fight against the nutworm, it is necessary immediately after flowering to spray the wild rose twice with the same pesticides as against aphids and other pests. Good results gives the use of the drug "Lightning" (2 ml per 10 liters of water).
At the same time, one should mechanical struggle(cut and burn emerging galls).
scoops. Cutworm caterpillars live in the soil and feed mainly at night, so we often see only traces of their activities.
If there is a lot of damage, use pesticides (the same as against aphids), spraying in the evening after sunset.
Depending on the degree of damage, the bud can give a deformed flower, so it is better not to leave it on the plant.
Thrips on roses: photo and fight against them
thrips. Small (up to 1 mm) sucking pest. Larvae, nymphs and adults of this pest feed on buds, flowers, leaves and young shoots of roses.
As you can see in the photo, thrips on roses have a light yellow color:
Thrips weaken roses by sucking juices from leaves, buds and flowers. Buds and flowers damaged by pests, especially of light colors, are covered with characteristic small red specks. The flower becomes disheveled and quickly fades. At the base of the petals, pests are clearly visible to the naked eye. Small yellow spots appear on the leaves. They acquire a silvery hue, as if damaged by a spider mite.
Adult insects overwinter in top layer soil and under plant debris.
Roses that grow in warm, dry places, such as near the walls of a house, on terraces with south side or near paths and areas tiled or covered with asphalt.
In spring, thrips feed on weeds, then Persians fly to rose bushes.
In greenhouses, the pest gives up to eight generations per year. One generation develops within 22 - 30 days.
To combat thrips on roses in case of severe damage, the same preparations are used to spray roses as in the fight against aphids.
Protecting roses from disease is a constant and inevitable concern for every grower. To prevent problems, it is important to choose disease-resistant varieties first. Some roses are often susceptible to black spot or powdery mildew, and neither chemistry nor organics can change such a genetic reality. If you use the same chemical fungicide, pathogens will develop immunity to it.
Prevention of any diseases of roses begins with a pruning period. will be more hardy than the one left with frost-damaged wood and many thin shoots in the middle of the bush. Such growth will grow weak, and the disease will first of all get to it. During the pruning period, fallen leaves are removed, on which pathogens usually remain.
It is important to limit surface watering in the morning so that the foliage can dry well - this will also prevent disease. Chemical fertilizers with a high nitrogen content cause the plant to grow vigorously, which as a result becomes a victim of powdery mildew, so they must be used carefully.
In some areas, almost no rust is observed, and in hot, dry climates, black spotting is rare. But any disease of roses, the signs of which are given below, can, under suitable conditions for it, appear in every area and infect all the bushes in the garden indiscriminately.
The most common rose diseases: prevention, methods of dealing with them
For proper treatment flower, you must first determine the type of disease by the symptoms and causes of their occurrence, and then decide what measures to take. Next, consider the main diseases that roses are susceptible to.
Extremely unpleasant and harmful to roses, black spot is caused by a fungus, the spores of which, unfortunately, are very resistant. Foliage on rose bushes becomes unattractive. Black spot appears on the upper and lower side of the leaf, especially on the lower branches close to the ground. Looking closely, it is easy to notice rays and wavy edges near the spots. Gradually, the leaves of infected roses turn yellow and fall off.
With a strong defeat of the foliage with black spotting, the bush remains almost naked. Although many roses are strong enough to regrow their foliage, only “a few roses are able to withstand a second attack of the disease. Roses entering the winter in this form are at risk of freezing. This is why black spot has killed many more roses in winter than in summer.
Black spot is especially dangerous in rainy weather, as spores of the pathogen actively develop on the wet surface of the leaves. It is important to keep this in mind when practicing surface watering.
For roses, such watering is useful, but it is better not to carry it out if the sun does not have time to dry the foliage before night. Of course, and if the roses got wet at night with rain, black spotting may also appear on them. It is noticed that roses are not subject to black spot if they are constantly in conditions of artificial fog. In greenhouses, this is the technique used to protect roses from black spot, but for most gardens, this solution is unsuitable.
The predisposition to black spot has passed to most roses by genetic inheritance from the species Rosa foetida, which gave them a yellow color. That is why it is more susceptible to black spot than others. And the old once-blooming European roses: Damascus, centifolia and French varieties - this misfortune rarely affects.
If black spot has started in the garden, it is very difficult to get rid of it. Prophylaxis is a thorough cleaning of the garden, since the spores of the fungus that causes the disease remain in the fallen leaves. Intensive is also a kind of treatment for the disease, it prevents black spot if it appeared in the garden a year earlier.
The disease most often affects weak shoots that must be cut first.
Interestingly, in the fifties and sixties of the XX century, black spot almost completely disappeared from parks in large cities, which, oddly enough, was facilitated by air pollution. There were few complaints about black spot from flower growers then, and breeders were not too worried about this. Air pollution levels have now declined, and growers have found that many roses bred during this period are particularly susceptible to this disease.
An alternative to chemical fungicides is Cornell's preparation, used in accordance with the instructions. It is based on potassium bicarbonate; it goes on sale under the name GreenCure. This remedy is good as a prophylactic, but with a strong outbreak of the disease, such treatment will be ineffective.
Powdery mildew - a disease of roses, characteristic of the middle lane
Such fungal disease widespread in middle lane in conditions high humidity. In rainy summers, powdery mildew always appears. The infection is transmitted by air, most often affecting young shoots. The disease can also flare up in the late period of the rose season, when warm days are abruptly replaced by cold nights. The leaves and young shoots of a diseased plant are twisted and discolored, they are covered with a white powdery coating. With severe damage, the buds are deformed and do not fully open. The disease affects any rose, but bushes with young shoots are especially affected, less undersized varieties.
Proper air circulation around roses helps prevent this disease. It is well known that roses growing in open space get sick less often than those in close proximity. For example, a rose weaving along a slatted or mesh fence is almost always healthier than the one attached to the wall of the building. On hot days, shallow watering can interrupt or slow down the development of infection. Of course, it will not be possible to restore the affected places of roses. But since signs of infection show up first in the upper part of the plant, you just need to cut off heavily infected areas without harming the rest of the bush.
GreenCure is a treatment for rose disease that provides protection if applied before signs of infection appear. Some home-made bicarbonate soda solutions are equally effective. However, a concentrated soda solution burns out unhealthy areas, which does not add beauty to the plant.
Like true powdery mildew, downy mildew is caused by fungi, but the two diseases are significantly different, which is clearly visible through a magnifying glass. With true powdery mildew, the mycelium of the fungus spreads along the outer side of the leaf, and with false mildew, it settles on reverse side and then grows deeper. Downy mildew can quickly kill a rose. It appears on the leaves and stems of roses in the form of brown spots with a lilac tint; fluffy plaque is distinguishable only under a microscope. Infection with downy mildew often starts from above. Sick leaves fall off with a light touch, and with a strong touch, the roses lose all their foliage.
Hybrid tea and miniature varieties are most susceptible to the disease; they also suffer from it. Unfortunately, downy mildew is becoming more common, and nurseries are to blame for its spread. Nature has established a barrier to the development of infection: at temperatures above + 30 ° C, which persists for at least a day, the fungus dies. At constant temperatures around +30°C and above, downy mildew remains passive. However, if this temperature does not last a day, the mycelium of the fungus is activated with the advent of coolness.
Some resourceful rose growers fight downy mildew by connecting garden hoses to water heaters, but this is not a safe method.
Rose growers relying on chemical control of the disease have returned to the zinc-based fungicides popular in the 1960s.
With this disease, orange-brown spots are visible on the back of the leaves and on the stems of the rose. Plants heavily infected with a rust fungus lose their foliage, and sometimes rapidly. The development of rust is facilitated by cool, wet weather in summer and mild winters, which happens in the middle lane. If the winter is severe, the disease is rare. Rust targets old garden roses, such as centifolia and, but then spreads to modern ones.
You can prevent the spread of rust by cutting off infected shoots. Cut infected branches must be burned. They cannot be used in compost.
The causative agent of rust, like many others, hibernates on fallen leaves, so the garden must be regularly and thoroughly cleaned. In an outbreak, it is recommended to use any remedy that is effective against blackspot, including new drugs with bicarbonates.
Botrytis (gray rot)
The fungus that causes botrytis, or gray mold, appears in cool and rainy weather. First, gray mold becomes noticeable on the rosebuds; as a result, with a strong defeat, the buds do not bloom.
It is interesting that original wines are made from grapes infected with botrytis, affected by a harmful rose fungus, and do not have any compensating properties.
The most susceptible to the disease are tea and multi-petal varieties. The disease usually manifests itself in autumn, at the end of the rose season. Gray mold loves dampness and progresses greatly in rainy weather with dense plantings - remove excess shoots in a timely manner.
Most rose growers fight botrytis by cutting off infected buds. They are removed from the site in hermetically sealed bags so that the spores of the fungus do not spread. Recently, effective chemicals because it was not possible to solve the problem with the help of organics. 
The most dangerous disease of roses, at first makes itself felt by the appearance of yellow and brownish lesions on the shoot. Over time, they darken and deepen, and the shoot dies. Fungus - the causative agent of cancer is present in many soils, but in the garden it becomes a real disaster. Infection almost always occurs as a result of mechanical damage rose shoot: sometimes the florist is to blame, but more often the neighboring shoot leaves a mark with a thorn, swaying in the wind.
Infected stems should be cut and burned immediately. Most fungicides, either chemical or organic, keep the disease from spreading from stems to leaves. If the cancer infects the leaves, small specks and large brown spots with a lilac tint form on them, which are easily mistaken for downy mildew.
Root cancer appears as a growth at the base of the bush. Rather, it bacterial disease on the root collar, at the grafting site. In any case, the growth is formed at the point of contact of the shoots with the ground. The disease can affect any rose, but plants in clayey and poorly drained soils are most at risk.
Industry releases as a cure for rose disease effective drug to fight bacteria - causative agents of root cancer. However, many gardeners successfully apply the disinfectant used in household, and treat them with infected areas. They pour out 200-250 ml of undiluted disinfectant on the affected area, avoiding contact with the leaves.
Cancer needs to be cut sharp knife. If the growth falls apart, it is necessary to carefully collect them and remove them from the garden. In many cases, after such treatment, the plant survives. The dead bush is dug up and before planting new rose be sure to replace the soil in the planting pit. The tool with which the build-up is made is disinfected.
The mosaic of roses is caused by a virus that spreads in the process of breeding them. The disease manifests itself in the form of a variety of yellow patterns on the leaves of roses. Sometimes an infestation only becomes apparent when the plant is under heat or drought stress.
Rose diseases have a negative effect on appearance plants. They are exhausting and severe cases may lead to death. In order to avoid these troubles, each owner must be able to properly protect their garden roses. In the material of the article, we will talk in detail about what types of lesions are and how to treat roses from diseases. When identifying the slightest sign pathological process, treatment should be started immediately. Experienced gardeners know better to spray roses by special means than to allow further spread of the disease. Because the preventive actions allow you to preserve the beauty of the plant and lengthen the flowering period.
Diseases and pests garden roses
Varieties of diseases of garden roses
Most diseases of roses appear due to inattention and non-compliance with elementary rules of care. Most pathological processes in plants are caused by fungi and bacteria. Thanks to modern drugs they are easily treatable. Rarely seen viral diseases. Things are much worse for him. Since it is impossible to cure the queen of flowers from this serious illness. All diseases of garden shrubs can be divided into infectious and non-infectious.
Infectious diseases of roses
- Powdery mildew.
Powdery mildew on roses
This disease is characterized by the appearance of a whitish coating on the surface of leaves and shoots. It usually appears at temperatures below 18ºC and high humidity. Powdery mildew in the initial stage is characterized by the appearance of small spots, which eventually grow and affect the entire flower, disrupting its metabolism. As a result, the young shoots begin to deform in the garden shrub and die off.
Prevention of rose disease is carried out with the help of nettle infusion or a decoction of horsetail, or a preparation
- Rust.
Rust on roses
It develops due to infection of the ground part of the plant with the fungus Phragmidium. The disease of garden roses is manifested by the formation of yellow growths. Shoots begin to twist and crack.
As a preventive measure, it is necessary to prune and thin out dry branches throughout the entire period of active plant growth and spray with special immunomodulators, Bordeaux liquid 1%, Topaz, Falcon preparations.
- Necrosis of the cortex.
Infectious burn or stem cancer of roses
This group of diseases is usually caused by fungi. In very rare cases, bacteria. It is characterized by damage to the cambium and cortex.
- A burn caused by infectious processes in a plant.
Roses that are in conditions of constant moisture are susceptible to the defeat of marsupial fungus. On the affected plant, the shoots become covered with brown, and then brown spots with a reddish edging. After that, shallow ulcers begin to form on the bark. Then brownish growths form in their place and the affected areas dry out.
- Ordinary cancer.
- Diplodia necrosis of the cortex.
- Tubercular death of the bark.
- Diaport cancer of the stem part of the plant.
- Drying of branches (cytosporosis).
Absolutely all varieties of roses are susceptible to these diseases. All affected areas of the plant must be cut and burned.
Preventive treatment is carried out using copper and iron sulfate.
- Gray rot.
gray mold on roses
The disease is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. The debut of the pathological process falls on winter period. Brownish impressions appear on the stems of the rose, from which a gray and fluffy mycelium then grows. Then, in its place, black growths with spores form. It is also possible the appearance of gray rot in summer time due to high rainfall. If roses are not treated for diseases, then the plant becomes covered with a completely gray coating and rots.
- Damage to the root system caused by rot.
There are 2 diseases in which root system affected by rot: tracheomycosis and white sclerocial rot. The pathogen retains its viability in the soil for many years. The pathological process is characterized by root rot, which leads to a cessation of the supply of nutrients to the plant. First, the shoots suffer, and then the plant dies.
It is necessary to water the soil "Fitosporin-M", "Gamair".
- Diseases caused by bacteria.
These include cancer of the roots and stem parts of garden shrubs. Root cancer is characterized by the formation of growths on the roots, as well as the root collar. At the beginning of the pathological process, they are soft, then harden and eventually rot. Cancer of the stem part of the plant appears as brown depressions without a border. On the affected areas of the plant, the bark dies off. After which on the queen of flowers are formed dark spots.
- Diseases caused by viral pathogens.
Viral diseases roses - viral mosaic
Downy mildew on roses
Horticultural culture is affected by such viruses as: tobacco necrosis, streak, tobacco curl streak, tomato bronze, rezuhi mosaic, apple tree mosaic and many others. If we are talking about viral damage, then this is a mixed infection, which consists of several types. Symptoms of the pathological process are very similar to each other. For more exact definition virus requires a series of laboratory tests. Viral diseases of roses and their treatment begin with the removal and subsequent burning of the affected areas of garden shrubs. If the rose is very strongly affected by the virus, then it is completely burned. To prevent transmission of the disease, all garden pruning tools are treated with alcohol or a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.
- Spotted lesion of the deciduous part of the plant.
- Ascochitous. It is characterized by the presence of yellowish spots on the leaves, as well as a brownish growth with fungal spores.
- Purple. The upper part of the leaf is affected. They show small dark or purple spots, bordered by a crimson stripe.
- Brown. On the upper part of the leaves are covered with dark spots, and on the lower part they are light without borders.
- Black (marsonina). It affects the leaves, in rare cases the shoots with a whitish coating, which eventually become black and sticky. The leaves of the garden shrub become dark in color, and then crumble.
- Cercosporosis (gray). In its manifestations, it is similar to black spot. Dark spots no larger than 5 mm appear on the leaves.
- Ramularia of the leaves of the plant. When the disease is affected, the leaves become brown in color, dry out and crumble.
- Pestalotia. In the central part of the leaves of roses, the disease manifests itself as dark brown spots. The yellow stripe clearly distinguishes between the diseased and healthy part of the plant. It is characterized by premature leaf fall.
- Downy mildew. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus. It appears purple and grayish bloom. The most famous and widespread disease.
- Septoria (septoria spotting).
- Phyllostictosis (phyllostic spotting).
Non-infectious diseases of garden roses
- The process of aging.
- Chlorosis. Appears with insufficient amounts of nutrients in the soil. The leaves of the plant turn pale, yellowish veins appear on them. Chlorosis may be due to hyperacidity soil, excess, as well as lack of moisture.
- Burn caused by exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
- Lack of nutrients in the soil (potassium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, nitrogen).
- The toxic effect of fertilizers. Occurs with an increase in the amount of treatment with chemical solutions. When treating a plant with pesticides, it is necessary to take into account the humidity and air temperature.
Rules for spring processing of plants
Diseases of roses after winter begin to activate, causing damage to plants. Therefore, it is very important not to miss this period and spend preventive treatment roses. It is during this period that the plant enters the active phase of growth.
First you need to remove the winter shelter. Then do a thorough inspection. rose bushes for diseases and pests. Now there is a huge number of preparations for the treatment of garden roses from the defeat of pathological pathogens. Among a large assortment it is very difficult to choose how to spray roses in the spring from diseases.
Copper sulfate is a proven chemical that has been used for many years to prevent as well as treat rose diseases in the spring. For this purpose, a 1% or 3% aqueous solution of copper sulphate is made. They carry out spraying of the plant and the soil that is next to it.
New varieties of garden roses
Breeders from all over the world are constantly trying to develop new varieties of plants that will be less whimsical to the conditions and habitat. Disease resistant roses mark these with the ADR sign. Of course, he cannot guarantee in any way that everything will be fine with this particular variety of garden shrub. But the quality mark is awarded only to those varieties that have the best characteristics.
Most of the garden shrubs marked with this quality mark are quite rare, and some are well known in many countries of the world. Among them you can find: densely double, non-double, ground cover and flower beds.
To the most resistant varieties include the following types of garden roses:
- non-terry "Escimo",
- kidney cover "Crimson Meidiland",
- floribundas "Cherry Girl", "Novalis",
- climbing "Apricola" and many others
Subject to simple rules of care and proper feeding plants can avoid the appearance of diseases of garden roses. If you see the first signs of illness, take action immediately. This approach will not only quickly heal your flower, but also protect the entire garden from infection by pathogens. Now there are many varieties of garden roses that are disease resistant. But this does not mean that the flowers will not need care.
What usually prevents you from growing healthy flowers? Of course, various diseases and pests. Rose is one of the most sought after plants among flower growers. Having a "queen of flowers" in your flower bed is considered a symbol of admiration. Diseases and pests in roses can destroy the plant.
Known diseases of roses
Treatment of roses is an important stage in the cultivation of a flower. But in order to improve it, knowledge of the varieties of diseases, their symptoms, causes of occurrence and spread, methods of struggle is required.
The most famous diseases of roses:
- gray rot;
- powdery mildew;
- rust;
- spotting.
Carry out protection of roses, it is worth in between flowering. The disinfection process is best done regularly. After all, one disease makes a flower vulnerable to other diseases. Infections quickly spread throughout the plant and cause it to weaken, eventually it will die. For inexperienced gardeners, it is better to look at the most common diseases in roses in pictures. So already a person will have an idea about plant diseases.
How to prevent rose disease?
All diseases of roses must be prevented, for this it is worth carrying out preventive procedures. From improvised means, you can make decoctions of garlic, onions or tobacco, which are sprayed with rose bushes. It's ecological safe method, not addictive in pathogens.
Chemical treatment is best done in the morning, but not very early, after the dew has disappeared on the leaves. You can also in the evening so that the plant is not already wet. Before you process a flower, you need to water it abundantly under the root.
Rose diseases and their treatment cause a lot of trouble for gardeners. Many use the tricks of nature.
For example, marigolds or lavender, calendula or nasturtium can be planted next to rose bushes. These plants have an aroma that can repel ticks and aphids. Growing garlic nearby helps prevent fungal diseases.
Preventive measures
The causative agents of diseases are very persistent, they can perfectly for a long time live on already dead leaves and shoots. Therefore, if the rose was sick, then its remains, nearby weeds and fallen greens should definitely be collected and burned.
Also, before preparing for, you need to remove all the leaves from the bush. If this is not done, then in early spring the rose will be actively affected by fungal diseases.
For prevention in late autumn, it is recommended to treat the flower with 3% iron sulphate. At the very beginning of spring - spray the bushes with a solution of copper chloride. Also do not start work with secateurs or other cutting tool without prior treatment with a disinfectant.
It is very important to know how to deal with diseases in roses. Without certain information, the plant will not grow in its favorite area, because each disease brings a lot of harm to the flower.
Rust treatment for roses
Rose rust is easy to spot. Signs of the disease:
- red spots;
- dispute formation.
When and why does rust appear? Basically, this is the period of the onset of the first heat. Due to the fact that the plant is very weakened and easily affected by the disease.
What to do:
- spraying medicinal decoction horsetail;
- watering with infusions of wormwood;
- removal of affected leaves initial stage.
Wormwood tincture is prepared in advance so that it is always at hand. For 10 liters of water, you will need half a kilogram of fresh wormwood leaves and 50 grams of dry ones. The infusion should stand for fourteen days. They can be sprayed, as well as watered under the root.
If conventional decoctions do not help, then treatment with a 1% solution of Bordeaux is required.
Powdery mildew treatment for roses
Powdery mildew most often affects roses indoor or grown in greenhouse conditions. The disease is not difficult to determine, it appears as a white powder on the flower. After maturation, the spores begin to stand out drops, like dew.
At the initial stage of the disease, white spots are easy to erase, but after a couple of weeks the entire bush will be dotted with a “white sore”. As a result, the leaves and flowers spin and fall off, the stem of the plant is deformed, and young shoots die. This is the certain death of the rose.
Powdery mildew is difficult to fight, so it is required to carry out preventive measures: spray the bush with three percent blue vitriol. It is also important to prevent a sharp temperature drop, which contributes to the spread of the disease.
On early stages development of powdery mildew, you can treat the plant with an infusion of wood ash and manure. Spray every week.
When the disease is at the stage of moderate severity, it is worth treating the bush once every ten days with a soap-copper solution.
If powdery mildew has already affected most of the rose, then special chemicals will come to the rescue. For example, benomyl or topsin.
Treatment of roses from black spot
For ground roses, black spot is a great danger. The disease appears if the plant receives less nutrients. Also, waterlogging of the soil contributes to the spread of the disease.
The favorite time for black spotting is the beginning of summer or the end of spring. But already visible signs on the plant will appear only at the end of summer or at the beginning of autumn.
Symptoms of black spot:
- greens are covered with dark spots;
- a yellow "edging" is formed at the ends of the leaves;
- cessation of flower growth.
At the initial stage of the disease, the affected areas of the plant are removed, the bush is sprayed with a decoction of horsetail. If these methods do not help, then the rose is treated with sulfur and copper-containing products. It can also be watered under the root with a solution Bordeaux liquid once a week.
If the above methods of struggle do not help, then it is worth removing the entire bush and burning it. So that black spot does not spread to healthy plants.
Photos of rose diseases can be viewed in the catalogs of specialized stores, and they are also easy to find on the Internet.
Video: how to avoid rose disease
