home > Floor repair > Insulation of the ceiling outside. Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house. Determination of the exact area

Insulation of the ceiling outside. Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house. Determination of the exact area

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house

Any owner strives to create comfortable living in his home. To do this, it periodically monitors possible heat losses, which could cause a drop in room temperature and an increase in energy use. Window and door openings are the main conductors of cold air.

As a rule, they are the first to be replaced by homeowners with quality products. Many rushed to insulate the walls, the foundation. And about the ceiling, for some reason, they do not always remember. And in vain! According to the laws of physics, heat loss due to poor-quality ceilings can be over 20 percent. The barrier created at the top will prevent heat from escaping, and heating appliances no need to heat the environment.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house include both indoor work and in the attic. These works to strengthen the energy protection of the house are equivalent, so each owner can choose a convenient option for themselves.

The difference between the methods lies in the installation technology and the materials used:

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by subsequent surface finishing with drywall or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor-permeable properties. These can be: mineral or basalt wool, penofol.
External insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the attic. A more economical and profitable option, since it does not require further finishing work, if the use of an attic room is not provided. It is recommended to use a vapor barrier material to prevent moisture from reaching the ceiling. Most often used: foam, penoizol, mineral wool, expanded clay.

The choice of insulation

The modern construction market offers a huge amount of materials for ceiling insulation. Even expanded clay, sawdust, hay, clay and slag are used, which have a number of significant disadvantages among their advantages. The choice must meet the requirements of the technology.

The main requirements that a heater must meet:

do not emit toxic substances;
be resistant to moisture;
have a low flammability.

Popular materials for home energy saving work

Mineral wool in the form of sheets or rolls is widely used in construction work. The characteristic of the heater meets technical requirements thermal insulation. The use in residential premises is dictated by the absence of toxic substances in the composition and excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool has components of limestone, basalt, diabase and dolomite.

Rocks endow the material with valuable qualities:

low degree of thermal conductivity;
resistance to temperature changes;
lack of flammability;
ecological characteristic.

And yet the material has disadvantages:

ability to absorb moisture;
during installation, be sure to use a waterproofing film;
additionally process the seams of the joints with mounting foam for better sealing;
for fixing the insulation, a crate is made of a wooden bar or profiles;
relatively short service life (10-15 years).

Penofol consists of interlayers of polyethylene foam and aluminum foil. Combines the properties of several insulating materials with a fairly wide range of applications. Represents the basis in the innovative decoration of balconies and loggias.

It has low thermal conductivity, which will save energy. Protective qualities will prevent the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon into the room. In summer, penofol will help keep the house cool, create a comfortable microclimate.

The light weight of the material makes installation convenient, and the structure of the structure is not weighed down. To work with penofol, you will need a minimum amount of improvised means: a construction knife, adhesive tape and liquid nails.

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

flexible surface means finishing the ceiling suspended structure with frame;
it is problematic to fix the material on some surfaces;
to increase thermal protection, it is recommended to use mineral wool.

Expanded polystyrene is known to many more as polystyrene. Easy-to-use material creates a strong protection of heat in the room, without harming the health of the household. With proper installation, it fully justifies the costs and retains its qualities for a long time.

The advantages are:

moisture resistance;
good thermal conductivity;
light weight, excluding structural reinforcement;
simple installation.

The disadvantages include:

easy flammability;
instability to the effects of ultraviolet rays and solvents;
low resistance to mechanical damage.

Penoizol is a liquid foamed foam. To insulate the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment for applying a binder to the surface.

Material advantages:

affordable price;
thermal insulation qualities;
resistance to ignition;
easily fills hard-to-reach places;
safe operation.

Flaws:

lack of special equipment excludes self-assembly;
low resistance to mechanical stress;
the first 2-3 weeks after installation, it evaporates a small amount of a toxic substance;
ability to absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself warming

If you adhere to the technological process and make the right choice of material, the installation is quite capable of doing it yourself.

Insulation of the ceiling inside the room using mineral wool

To complete the work, you will need material:

mineral wool;
metal profiles or wooden bars 150x30 mm;
hardware;
vapor barrier film;
staples;
dowels with a wide hat;
drywall.

Set of tools:

perforator;
roulette;
hammer;
screwdriver;
scissors;
construction knife.

Installation steps

On the ceiling, make a crate of their wooden bars or a metal profile in increments of 50 cm.
Cut the insulation to the size of the crate cell with an increase of 2 cm on the sides.
Lay mineral wool in the cells without tamping it.
Treat the joints of the insulation with mounting foam for sealing. The foam will also serve as resistance to the shrinkage of the insulation.
Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material should overlap by 10 cm. Using staples, fix the film to the crate.
Finish the ceiling using drywall sheets.

Ceiling insulation in the attic using foam

Materials required for installation:

foam sheets 40 mm thick;
mounting foam;
OSB sheets 15-18 mm;
hardware.

Tools:

drill;
hacksaw;
hammer;
metalwork knife;
screwdriver.

Installation steps

Clear the attic of debris. If there are damaged spots or holes, repair them with a cement or gypsum mixture.
Put the foam on the surface, tightly docking with each other.
Process the connecting seams with mounting foam.
Cover the top with OSB sheets (15-18 mm) or boards.

If you plan to use the attic as an attic, the insulated surface must be filled cement screed, at least 5 cm thick. Reinforcing mesh must be used.

Insulation in the attic using foam sheets must be supplemented with a finish in the form of a screed or wooden boards. Unprotected foam is subject to mechanical damage that will affect its functionality.
Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
Mineral wool must not be compressed. Losing structure, it loses valuable properties.
Built-in lamps in the insulated ceiling should be mounted with a fence from the material with plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
To increase thermal protection, you can lay the attic in a complex way: with foam plastic and mineral wool. Layers of insulation should resemble brickwork.
Use a marked film for vapor barrier. The use of ordinary polyethylene is not allowed.
When using penofol for insulation in the attic, lay the foil down.

Any area of a private house, whether it be walls, floors or ceilings, must be properly insulated. Depending on the quality of the work performed, the cost of energy resources for heating will decrease or increase accordingly. Warming is carried out with accompanying insulating layers- a residential object will emit moisture, steam.

The following describes how to insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands, selection criteria the best insulation and a detailed installation guide for home craftsmen - independent work significantly save the family budget.

Why insulate the ceiling

The concept of heat loss at home is especially relevant for private facilities, in contrast to multi-apartment municipal housing. A separate house must be insulated from all sides, since there are no “neighbors” and there is no constant maintenance of an acceptable climate. If you insulate only the walls and floor, and at the same time ignore the ceiling, then the owners will not receive proper comfort, but astronomical resource bills - please. Why?

From heating radiators, warm air rises, mixing with cold air and the reverse process occurs. If the flows linger at the ceiling for a long time, heating it, then it will take much more time to reach a comfortable temperature, which results in an increase in the amount of firewood, gas, and electricity. Corresponding and costs.

The insulated ceiling, on the contrary, does not need heating, since the space of the room is reliably separated from the attic by insulating layers. Therefore, the temperature exchange will be faster. So, the importance of insulating the ceiling space is clear and not discussed.

How to insulate the ceiling qualitatively and inexpensively

The construction industry offered a lot of options for heaters. The price aspect should not be put at the forefront of the question - how to insulate the ceiling, because we are talking about your own comfort.

Let's analyze some of the materials traditionally used for ceiling insulation:

Mineral or basalt wool. Unlike its predecessor - glass wool - it is convenient to work with it. It does not prick, does not emit any odors. Its thickness is sufficient for one contour of insulation. Available in convenient forms - mats, rolls. For a private house, it has the main advantage of incombustibility - it does not even smolder. The price is perfectly acceptable.

However, this type of insulation has a serious drawback in the form of hygroscopicity and caking. Even a small amount of moisture that has got inside the insulation mat can expose large spaces, which makes the idea of warming with wool lost.

If, nevertheless, the owners choose this option, they should reliably insulate, waterproof the roof and cover the wool with multi-layer protective layers, since the resulting condensate can form in a cold attic room, encountering warm flows from the insulated ceiling.

Expanded clay. Mineral building material is successful for insulation, however, it is worth knowing that in a cold region at least 50 mm of a layer is required, and given the additional insulation, the weight of the insulation will affect the load-bearing capacity of wooden floors. It is better to use a mineral for floor insulation.

sawdust and clay. In the old days they used just such materials, there were no others. However, they performed well. Parts of sawdust and dry crushed or powdered clay were mixed and poured into wooden ceiling boxes. There are some disadvantages of the method - sawdust attracts mice and absorbs moisture. Therefore, before filling, produce insulation work, raw materials are dried or even calcined in the sun, mixed with slaked lime or carbide.

In addition to the biological threat, susceptibility to mold and mildew, sawdust is flammable. They are sprinkled with a layer of spent slag and reliably protect the boxes from direct proximity to the chimney - its hot bricks can make them smolder, and then ignite the entire mass. Many craftsmen use sawdust in combination with cement, however, as in the case of expanded clay, the layer turns out to be heavy - the use is impractical.

It is important to remember that the materials are not combustible, but smoldering and releasing dangerous gases into the atmosphere.

Sprayed materials - ecowool, expanded polystyrene. The first option is absolutely environmentally friendly, as it is cellulose. The second is an analogue of styrene plates. Self-spraying is possible, but expensive - the cylinders are not very capacious. It is better to order the service of professionals. The advantage of sprayed insulation in quality is that not a single centimeter of area will be missed. In addition, the materials are not combustible and have good adhesion to surfaces. Arranging sprayed insulation means completely eliminating cold bridges in the house.

But there is also a drawback - the impermeability of steam. You will have to create high-quality ventilation, otherwise the microclimate at home will become uncomfortable, and in some cases unsuitable for living. The consequences of condensate settling on the walls are known - mold, dampness.

Plaster insulation mixes. In private homes, they are not popular, as they require a large preparatory base. However, for non-wooden objects, such an application is advisable - the application of the plaster composition immediately takes on a decorative finish or becomes the base for another coating.

Cork. Decorative environmentally friendly material. Expensive. Wood, as you know, is a warm raw material, but, nevertheless, capricious - it burns, becomes moldy, and is a delicacy for the beetle. Warming can occur without hydro and vapor barrier, which is mandatory for all materials, since the raw material itself has sufficient throughput. The decorative look will allow you to combine practicality with design.

The list is incomplete, however, it includes popular materials for insulation. All others are based on them. Prices vary, but you should not chase cheapness. It is better to consider the possibility of self-laying for each type - the savings on invited teams are significant.

Ways to insulate ceilings in a private house

There are only two of them - insulation of the ceiling from the outside and from the inside.

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Insulation of the ceiling from the outside

Laying insulation from the side of the attic, House master leaves the height of the room unchanged, which, of course, will have a positive effect on the number of useful meters. In addition, it is always convenient to work from above rather than from below - pour expanded clay, tightly lay mats and slabs. However, this method of insulation always involves the mandatory protection of the roof, otherwise the occurrence of condensate from temperature changes is inevitable.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside

Internal insulation allows you to extend the durability of the material - dryness, ventilation of space, absence of temperature changes. However, you will have to steal height meters.
It is logical to assume that it is best to use the first option to insulate the ceiling. In addition, then the attic becomes suitable for residential use. It is important to remember that the stacked cake must have good vapor barrier.

We insulate the ceiling of a frame house with our own hands

The principles of laying any insulation are the same. Let's consider the whole process using the example of using basalt wool according to the first method - from the outside.

What will be required:

vapor barrier. This is a foil membrane. It is laid with the metallized side out.
Waterproofing. In this capacity, PVC film or rolled rubber acts.
Drywall. It is laid from the inside. It will become the base for the subsequent finishing.
Acquired accordingly aluminum profiles and movable brackets– we must not forget about shrinkage processes.
insulation. The selected mineral wool is purchased immediately in mats so that it is convenient to lay it.
Edged board.

From tools: stapler, screwdriver, fasteners, circular saws or jigsaws. You will need a stepladder, even if the installation takes place from above - a rigid frame is attached from below.

Where to start with ceiling insulation

The work begins with an assessment of wooden floors, even if the house was built recently. Found foci of damage are destroyed, and then all the wood is impregnated with protective compounds - there will be no more such an opportunity.

frame for insulation

Bottom on ceiling beams edged board is stuffed to form boxes. You can not use unskinned croaker - this is bait for the beetle.

Ceiling vapor barrier

A steam membrane is laid over the board. It is fixed with a stapler, the joints will overlap. The seams must be taped with adhesive tape to exclude even the possibility of moisture ingress.

Sheathing the frame and laying insulation

Then brackets are installed, and a metal frame for drywall is fixed on them. The necessary communications are laid through it - electrical wires, lighting cartridges - and then the GKL space is sewn up. Internal work completed.

Cotton mats are placed in boxes made of beams and edged boards. It is important not to allow too tight entry or chatter.

Waterproofing

Attach waterproofing. You should also glue the seams and joints with construction tape.
Install floors. Usually this is a grooved board. If attic space will be used for residential purposes, multi-layer plywood is placed on the subfloor and decorated with a topcoat - linoleum, laminate. Even scraped boards are beautiful on their own.

That's actually the whole process. An easy, safe and, most importantly, effective way to reduce the amount of heat loss and create a comfortable stay for yourself and your household. The benefits of ceiling insulation can be calculated in advance - it will pleasantly surprise the owners of a private house.

27 December, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Whatever efforts we make to insulate the walls and floor of the dwelling, a huge part of the heat energy loss falls on the upper part of the room. Therefore, it's time to talk about how to insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Today I will tell you the best way to insulate the attic beam ceiling in a wooden house, and I will also describe in detail the technology for laying heat-insulating material inside the house in the country. The article shows the most effective, in my opinion, scheme, when a vapor barrier membrane is installed from the inside, and the main insulation from the outside. But about everything in due time.

The choice of material for work

To begin with, I want to figure out with you how you can insulate a ceiling constructed from floor beams. If you study the advice of heating professionals, you can see that each of them offers different materials: expanded clay, polystyrene, perlite, polyurethane foam, and so on.

But from the whole variety of heat-insulating materials for warming a wooden ceiling, I suggest using basalt wool. In my opinion, this is the best choice if you decide how to insulate the ceiling from the outside along the logs. In support of what has been said, I cite the most important technical characteristics of this material.

Characteristic	Description
Low thermal conductivity	The coefficient of thermal conductivity of basalt wool is approximately 0.035 W / (m * K). Therefore, for effective thermal insulation, it is sufficient to use a layer 10 cm thick. That is, the insulation boards will just fit into the gaps between the support beams.
High vapor permeability	The vapor permeability coefficient of the described insulation with a density of 50 kg per m3 is 0.6 mg / (m * h * Pa), which is more than that of wood. Consequently, the thermal insulation layer will not prevent air infiltration through the walls, moisture will evaporate from the floor beams. This will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate in the house, and on the integrity of the building envelope.
Low hygroscopicity	In direct contact with a liquid, the material absorbs no more than 2% of its own volume of moisture. That is, if on the ceiling (ceiling with reverse side) water ingress due to a leaking roof, the liquid will not reduce the performance of the thermal barrier layer.
High fire safety	According to the current classification of building materials, basalt mats are classified as NG. The insulation does not ignite under the action of an open flame, does not contribute to the spread of fire and does not emit toxic smoke. This is very important for a dwelling built of wood.
High sound insulation	The open structure of the mineral mats (unlike foam) allows for very efficient absorption sound waves structural and air origin. When using basalt insulation for thermal insulation of the ceiling, the inhabitants of the upper and lower floors will not hear each other's conversation, and the people below will not suffer from the rumble of furniture moving upstairs and careless steps.
biological neutrality	The insulation has antiseptic properties; mold, fungus and other microorganisms do not form on its surface and inside. As a result, wooden floor beams will be reliably protected from rot, which will extend their service life.
Ease	The insulation is a porous material, therefore it is light in weight. The thermal insulation layer on the ceiling (even with additional hydro and vapor barrier membranes) will not exert a large load on the floor beams, load-bearing walls and foundation.
Ease of installation	All installation work basalt insulation are performed manually. To do this, you do not need compressors and other mechanisms (as is the case with PPU). In addition, its use eliminates the use of "wet" construction processes, so you can work even at negative air temperatures.
Long service life	Basalt mats will retain their original specifications as long as the ceiling beams themselves. At the same time, the insulation does not shrink, forming islands of cold and reducing the efficiency of the heat-insulating layer.

A small fly in the ointment in this barrel of honey is the high price of insulation. However, taking into account all the performance characteristics listed above, I believe that this best material for thermal insulation of the ceiling in frame or in log house outside.

For work, I will use basalt wool slabs manufactured by Knauf Insulation TeploKrovlya Expert. They are cut into pieces 1200 by 610 mm in size, that is, with a distance between the beams of 600 mm, the insulation will fit back to back without forming gaps. The thickness of the material is 50 mm, since I will put it in two layers with alternating joints. One package is enough for 18.3 m2 of surface (but keep in mind that you will have to put in two layers).

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling. However, in addition to mineral mats, other materials with tools will also be needed. I will list them in the next section.

Necessary tools and materials

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need to stock up on other materials:

Vapor barrier membrane. This polymer film does not allow water vapor formed in the room as a result of human activity to penetrate into the insulation, causing the latter to become wet. It is better not to use impervious films, as all the benefits of breathable mineral wool are lost. An excellent manufacturer of vapor barrier membranes is Juta.

waterproofing film. A waterproof membrane that protects the insulation layer from moisture as a result of water getting inside the insulation cake due to a leaky roof or for other subjective reasons.

Plywood. With it I will hem the beams interfloor overlap from below, i.e. glued veneer sheets will support the mineral mats between the rafters. Instead of plywood, you can use a board, GKL, GVL, lining and other similar materials. The thickness of the sheets is 10 mm, the brand is ordinary FK (you can use moisture-resistant PSF, but it has a higher level of formaldehyde emission).
Polyurethane adhesive for insulation. Sold in bottles, applied with a mounting gun. It is needed only in order to, if necessary, seal the joints of thermal insulation sheets. Since I have everything calculated exactly, and the mineral wool is laid in two layers, it is practically not necessary to use foam.
Wooden bars with a section of 5 by 5 cm. They are useful for mounting a counter-lattice from the outside of the ceiling, since a ventilation gap must be left between the insulation and the decorative material on top to remove moisture. Choose high-quality lumber, the dimensions of which are the same along the entire length, otherwise you will not be able to make a flat floor.
Grooved board. The attic above the ceiling in my case will be used as a residential attic. Therefore, I will make the floor (that is, the ceiling on the reverse side) strong and reliable from a grooved board. If you have just an attic there, you can limit yourself to plywood.
Fire and bioprotective impregnation for wood. This substance will need to process the floor beams and bars used for mounting the crate. The liquid will increase the fire safety of a wooden structure, destroy microorganisms and protect the enclosing structures from biocorrosion. You can use, for example, Bastion liquid, which, among other things, has hydrophobic properties.

As for the tools, the main ones are a screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws, a stapler for fixing films and a saw for cutting plywood and foam. Everything else is the usual set of plumbing fixtures, available in the arsenal of even a novice specialist.

Well, now it's time to move on to the story of how to properly insulate the ceiling in a wooden dwelling.

Warming technology

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a private house is carried out in several steps. All of them are shown in the diagram below.

I will try to describe each of them in as much detail as possible.

Floor preparation

Ceiling insulation in wooden house begins with the preparation of the floor, which in my case is a set of load-bearing beams (from bars with a section of 50 by 100 mm) installed at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

I carry out the processing of load-bearing beams. Several important tasks need to be solved at once:
- Check the integrity of structural elements, remove damaged areas and replace defective fragments. If the beams are not new, they must be cleaned of mold and fungus with sandpaper and a grinder. Damaged sections are sawn out and replaced with new fragments, and I advise you to completely change the heavily worn beams for new ones. Otherwise, the life of the insulated ceiling will not be very long.

Treat the beams with fire protection. To do this, the primer antiseptic composition of your choice is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package, after which the ceiling beams are covered with it. It is best to work with a brush-brush, carefully rubbing the fire protection into wooden surface(it should be well saturated).

I carry out the installation of engineering communications in the ceiling. Most often (as in my case) these are three separate systems - ventilation, electricity and passage chimney. Each has some minor features:
- I recommend insulating ventilation pipes (made of thin-walled metal or plastic) with polyethylene foam cylinders or mineral mats. This will improve the efficiency of the system and reduce the noise generated by the airflow.

Electric wires in the ceiling of a wooden house (if you prefer hidden wiring) must be carried out in special metal or plastic fireproof channels. The latter prevent the ignition of the ceiling and the further spread of fire in the event of a short circuit.

Section of the intersection of the chimney and the ceiling wooden house must be carefully protected with non-combustible fireproof material. I made a square box out of tin, which I mounted in the ceiling. After inner part the boxes were covered with expanded clay, which excluded the contact of the hot pipe with the boards and plywood of the ceiling.

Having completed the preparation of the wooden ceiling supports, you can go down to the living rooms, as further work will be carried out from inside the house.

Works indoors

From the lower part of the ceiling, we need to solve two problems - to exclude the moistening of mineral mats by water vapor dissolved in the air and to provide a reliable support for basalt fiber slabs (their installation procedure is described in the next section).

Therefore, the workflow will be as follows:

I fix a vapor barrier membrane on the floor beams. For this, as you already know, Juta vapor barrier film is used. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- I roll out the first roll of insulating membrane, after which I fix it to the bottom of the beams using a construction stapler and staples. It is not necessary to pull it strongly, especially if the work is carried out in the warm season. The film should sag 1 cm every meter. In this case, after cooling (in winter), it will not tear.

The second and subsequent rolls of the vapor barrier layer must be fixed in such a way that their edges form an overlap of 10 cm wide. This is necessary to ensure the tightness of the joints.
After processing the entire ceiling, the joints of the individual sheets must be glued with adhesive tape. The result should be a picture similar to the one shown in this photo.

I install the bars of the counter-lattice. With their help, a ventilation gap is formed between the film and the decorative material (in my case -), which will help to remove the moisture concentrated there.
- The lumber that I will use for work is pre-treated with a fire retardant and an antiseptic (in one bottle). It is better to do it outdoors and bring it inside after protective compound completely absorbed into the surface and dry.

Directly through the vapor barrier membrane, using self-tapping screws, I fasten the bars to the supporting joists of the ceiling so that the parts are perpendicular to each other. The distance between adjacent elements is about 40 cm. Thus, the bars will form a gap and serve as a support for the mineral wool insulation boards laid in the sphere.

Between individual bars, as well as at the walls, gaps of 3-5 mm should be made, which are necessary to compensate for the possible thermal expansion of the bars.

I hem the ceiling from below with sheets of birch plywood. I use this material because of the characteristics of the subsequent decorative finish. However, you can replace it with other suitable sheet or rack products. The scheme for mounting plywood is as follows:
- I cut the sheets of material into parts of the required dimensions in such a way that after fixing the counter-lattice on the bars, there is a gap between the wall and the plywood. Through it, the condensed moisture will be removed from the air gap.

I fix the plywood on the bars of the crate. For this, black self-tapping screws are perfect, which are protected from corrosion. The distance between the screws is 20 cm. They need to be screwed along the edge of the plywood sheets and in the middle, attracting the material to the supporting elements. There should be a distance of a few millimeters between plywood sheets to compensate for thermal expansion.

After that, you can finish work inside the living space and move to the attic, where the insulation will be laid.

Works in the attic

Work from the outside attic floor much easier than with the inside. The fact is that in this case you do not have to come up with various tricks to fix the mineral mats. They are easy and simple to lay on a horizontal surface and do not sag.

The detailed workflow looks like this:

I lay mineral mats between the floor joists. It is done like this:
- Basalt fiber slabs are cut to size. I have the distance between the lags exactly equal to the width of the slab minus 1 cm (the slab is 61 cm, the beams are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other). That is, the thermal insulation will become a surprise without the formation of cold bridges. If you need to customize the dimensions, then for this I recommend using a file with fine teeth or a sharp stationery knife with interchangeable blades.

The first layer of insulation is laid on a vapor barrier film and bars of a counter-lattice fixed on the lower plane of the ceiling. It is necessary to fit the heat-insulating mats to each other as tightly as possible so that cold bridges do not form along the seams. Then the second layer is placed on top so that the gaps are interspersed with an offset of 15-20 cm relative to each other.

Joints between mineral wool boards can be filled with polyurethane foam adhesive. It glues the insulation fibers together and forms a homogeneous heat-insulating layer, which excludes unproductive losses of thermal energy.

Installing a waterproofing membrane. It is necessary to use a special polymer film, and not ordinary polyethylene. The latter stops air infiltration through the ceiling, which negates all the advantages of using wood, mineral wool and other "breathable" materials. The scheme is as follows:
- The membrane is rolled out over the insulation in such a way that the edges of one roll are located on the edges of the other, forming an overlap of 10 cm wide.

After that, the film is fixed on wooden parts using staples and a construction stapler. It is not necessary to stretch the material too much so that it does not tear in winter. But there is no need to leave a lot of slack, otherwise the polymer film will rustle during operation.
The joints of adjacent elements of the waterproof layer are sealed with adhesive tape. The film must form an impermeable layer to prevent water from entering the surface of the basalt mats.
The film should lie on the surface of the basalt insulation. If its thickness is not enough to fill the vertical space between the beams, then the membrane must be lowered down and fixed on the side surfaces of the supporting elements using wooden blocks.

I fasten the bars of the counter-lattice to the beams. It is necessary when you are going to lay decorative material on top (in my case, a tongue-and-groove board for the floor in the attic). It is done like this:
- Wooden beams with a section of 5 by 5 cm are screwed onto the beams over the waterproofing. They must be placed perpendicular to the direction in which the boards will be laid. You can fix the crate with self-tapping screws.
- To avoid warping of the coating, I recommend not to install the bars close to the walls of the attic and to each other. Small seams a few millimeters wide will help compensate for the thermal expansion of the material.
I lay a tongue-and-groove board on top. I took this material

On this, the process of insulating the ceiling can be considered complete.

Summary

Now you know how to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with mineral wool. But there are other, cheaper ways to insulate. Instructions on how to use expanded clay for this purpose are set out in the video in this article. And you can read about how to insulate a wooden ceiling from the inside (if there is no access to it from the attic), you can read in my other articles on this site.

You can leave your opinion about the information contained in the material in the comments below.

In the conditions of the Russian winter, the insulation of the ceiling in a private house is far from the last issue. To save on heating costs, it is important to minimize the heat loss that occurs through all building envelopes of the house - windows, walls, doors, ceiling. Homeowners try to install high-quality windows and doors, they insulate the walls, but they often forget about the ceiling. Meanwhile, up to 20% of heat can escape through this enclosing structure!

Everyone who remembers school physics lessons and knows that warm air rises according to natural laws, and then it comes into contact with the cold surface of an uninsulated ceiling. As a result, condensation forms, that is, the humidity of the air in the upper part of the room increases. Of course, this does not benefit the health of the household, because dampness can provoke the formation of mold. Therefore, the issue of insulation should be puzzled by every owner of a private house.

General rules for insulation

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

When looking for materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a private house, several effective solutions are possible:

Expanded clay. This is a loose insulation, a lightweight, absolutely non-combustible material that is made on the basis of clay. The material is environmentally friendly, not afraid of moisture, has good thermal insulation characteristics, rodents and pests do not start in it.
Mineral wool. This is perhaps the most popular option for insulation, has excellent thermal insulation qualities. The disadvantages include hygroscopicity, this material should be carefully protected from moisture.
Ecowool. Cellulose-based material, environmentally friendly, has excellent thermal insulation properties.
Styrofoam. Lightweight polymer material. Fireproof, easy to use, not afraid of moisture.
Penoizol. This is a porous polymer material for insulation with an unlimited service life.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in the house

The choice of material is also connected with the method that will be used for insulation. Warming can be done in two ways:

From inside the room.
From the side of the attic.

It should be noted that both methods are able to provide a decent level of insulation, so you need to choose the one that will be more convenient to perform.

Methods differ in technology and types of materials used. In order not to make a mistake when answering the question, how to insulate the ceiling is better , it is worth remembering an immutable rule: if insulation is made from the inside, then a vapor-permeable insulation should be chosen. In the event that the insulation is carried out from the side of the attic or from the outside of a private house, then a material with vapor-tight properties should be purchased.

How to perform insulation from the inside of the room?

As a rule, ceiling insulation from the inside of the room is combined with the construction of suspended or stretch ceilings. In this case, the insulation is placed in the space between the ceiling plate and the installed coating.

When insulating the ceiling of the house from the inside of the room, most homeowners choose mineral insulation, which is available in the form of rolls or mats.

If you plan to arrange it in the house, then first they assemble a frame from a metal profile for fixing drywall (or other material that is planned to sheathe the ceiling). Then, layers of insulation are glued in the space between the profiles.

Advice! It is convenient to use tile adhesive for sticking mineral insulation, it sets quickly and holds the material well.

In the event that they are installed, the frame will have to be assembled specifically for laying the insulation. It is convenient to do this from a bar.

Advice! Under no circumstances should mineral wool be compacted during installation, since its heat-insulating properties depend on the presence of air gaps between the fibers.

A separate issue is the installation of lamps. The fact is that even modern lamps heat up a little during operation, and the presence of insulation on the ceiling does not allow heat to escape freely. As a result, the lamps burn out quickly. Therefore, you should either cut out the insulation in the area of \u200b\u200bthe lamp, or leave an air gap between the insulation layer and the ceiling sheathing material. The first method reduces the effectiveness of insulation, and the second requires a significant lowering of the ceiling level.

Advice! There is another way to solve the problem with lamps - do not use recessed ones, but install the most ordinary chandeliers and sconces.

Ceiling insulation from the attic

This option is the most efficient. Consider how you can insulate the ceiling from the outside of the room? Almost any type of insulation is perfect here. However, if it is decided to use mineral wool, then a layer of vapor barrier film should be laid in front of it.

When using layers of mineral wool or foam, the material is placed in the gaps between the timber frame bars. When using polystyrene, the joints should be sealed with mounting foam.

If the attic is planned to be used, then a floor should be made on top of the laid insulation by performing a screed or arranging the floor on logs.

conclusions

So, taking up the insulation of the ceiling in a private house with your own hands , First of all, you should decide which side of the ceiling will be insulated. Then you can choose a heater from the options above.

In cold climates, it is very important to insulate your home well. Usually, attention is paid to the floor, walls, windows, but not the ceiling - and after all, up to 15% of heat can escape through it.

How to choose a material for insulation

Often the question arises as to how to insulate the ceiling of the house. The choice of material depends, first of all, on the climate of the region. The most common insulation is mineral wool, which has excellent thermal insulation properties. If the air temperature outside does not fall below -35 degrees, then this material will the best choice.

Mineral wool is made (see photo) from artificial fibers of mineral origin. Limestone, basalt, dolomite, diabase are used for its production. Most quality insulation obtained in the event that only rocks are used in the manufacturing process. The advantages of mineral wool include fire resistance, durability, low hygroscopicity.

Ecowool - cellulose insulation, installed using special equipment. The composition of the material includes thin wood fibers formed during the processing of waste paper, and special antiseptics. Ecowool has only been used for a couple of decades, but thanks to its ability to fill empty space, it is becoming increasingly popular. Its disadvantages include the impossibility of independent use - for work it is necessary to call specialists, as well as a significant amount of dust in the case of dry installation. The advantages of the material are excellent thermal insulation properties, environmental friendliness and affordable price.

When choosing how to insulate the ceiling of a house, one should not forget about other widespread heaters - foam plastic, penoizol (in more detail: "").

Styrofoam is obtained by creating foam from different types of plastics. It contains a large amount of air, due to which it is lightweight material which is convenient for installation and transportation. It has excellent heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties. In addition, it is convenient to work with foam - it is easily cut and can be attached to any surface.

Penoizol is a liquid foam, the advantage of which is its low price. It also fills any spaces, thereby reliably protecting the home from the cold. But for its use it is necessary to have special equipment, so you have to trust specialists to work with this material. Penoizol is recommended to be used for warming rooms of a large area.

As for how you can insulate the ceiling in cold regions, where the temperature in winter can be less than -35 degrees, then this is expanded clay. It is made of clay by firing, is resistant to low temperatures and well protects against heat loss.

Tools for the job

To carry out work on the insulation of a small house (for example, a summer house), you will need the following tools:

metalwork knife;
hacksaw;
jigsaw;
hammer.

If the insulation of a private house, cottage will be carried out, then it is better to purchase such power tools:

You also need to think about fasteners. The most affordable and easy to use are ordinary nails, but if you need to insulate a large area ceiling, it will be more convenient to use self-tapping screws or screws. Using a screwdriver or an electric drill to tighten them, you can save time and effort.

During operation, you will also need mounting foam and double sided tape. The joints between the insulation plates and other cavities are filled with foam, which rapidly increases in volume.

To fix the waterproofing layer, wooden slats are used. It is recommended to prepare them in advance. Their size should be 10x20 (25) millimeters. After the ceiling is insulated, the floor is usually laid in the attic. The easiest flooring made from boards 120-150 centimeters long and 25-30 centimeters wide. If the attic will be used as a living space, then more expensive coverage can be made.

How to insulate the ceiling in the house, detailed video:

Work process

Having chosen the best way to insulate the ceiling and having prepared everything you need, they begin to create thermal insulation.

Mineral wool can be replaced with ecowool, and polystyrene can be replaced with penoizol. But in this case, you will have to involve specialists in the work. The better to insulate the ceiling in the country, it is difficult to say - it depends on the design features of the ceiling, financial capabilities and the required degree of thermal insulation.

Wooden house - the design itself is warm. That is why many city dwellers part with cramped apartments and move to a suburban home. Buildings made of wood are convenient and practical, as well as environmentally friendly. In summer, pleasant coolness reigns here, and in winter it is warm. However, even the warmest wood will not protect against severe frosts and wind: you can’t do without a ceiling insulation of a wooden room.

Often, all the heat loss from the inside is due to an improperly finished ceiling. If you do not properly insulate this part of the house, you can not wait in winter time coziness and comfort. Won't help modern windows and wall insulation, it all depends on the ceiling.

How to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house?

There are several available and simple ways insulation from the inside and outside with their own hands. All of them are divided into two options: insulation from the outside from the attic side and indoors. When insulating the surface from the inside, you need to understand that the height may decrease. If the attic floor is insulated, after all the work it is necessary to make a floor covering.

When insulating, it is necessary to pay attention to the following indicators: strength, safety, sound insulation, fire resistance

Choosing desired material, you need to focus on the following indicators:

strength and durability;
no harm to health;
fire resistance;
reliable thermal insulation qualities;
the presence of sound insulation.

What can be applied?

mineral or glass wool;
sawdust;
polyurethane foam;
Styrofoam;
clay;
expanded clay.

Use of sawdust

They are the cheapest and most affordable way to insulate the outside, while their qualities are not inferior to expensive materials. The process itself is simple and does not require much time. Everything can be done by hand. First you need to prepare the materials:

several bags of sawdust;
insulating material. It is necessary to calculate its required amount. To do this, you need to know the surface area exactly;
cement.

A mixture of sawdust and cement for ceiling insulation

The latter is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. How to correctly calculate the required number of sawdust? One and a half buckets of water will be required for ten buckets of sawdust. A wet mixture should form, which will be a heater.. What should be sawdust? The first ones that come across are no good. The material must meet the following requirements:

dryness, lack of moisture;
age not less than a year;
absence of mold and its smell;
the average size. Small ones are not suitable, otherwise the thermal insulation qualities will deteriorate.

The mixture of sawdust should be evenly distributed over the surface of the ceiling

Sequencing:

Clean the surface from dust and dirt.
Treat the base with a special solution that protects the room and ceiling from fungi and insects.
Take the pre-prepared material for waterproofing and spread it over the entire floor space.
Prepare a mixture of cement and sawdust. It should be a rich gray color.
Distribute the mixture throughout the space of the interceiling ceiling.
You can walk on the layer of thermal insulation to tamp it down. This will allow the mixture to grab better and keep the heat out.

If there is access to the attic of the room, this method is the most suitable and cheapest. If you have to insulate the ceiling in a wooden house only from the inside, you will have to choose another method.

What are the advantages of roll materials?

Mineral wool and glass wool, as well as other roll insulation, reliably protect the room, but it is difficult to work with them: small particles crumble and get into the mouth, nose, eyes. To avoid injury, take care of yourself and prepare protective clothing and goggles.

Ceiling insulation scheme roll materials, mats and bulk materials

The sequence of steps:

On rough surface nails are hammered. At the same time, it is necessary to score not on the hat, but so that they stick out a little. Then threads are pulled on them using the zigzag technique.
The heater itself is installed. It is better to do the work not alone, but with a partner: one will lay the rolls, and the other will pull the thread. So the glass wool will be able to push through better.
An anti-condensation film is attached.
Now you can nail the nails harder to press the layer more tightly.
You can nail sheets of drywall or fix a false ceiling.

Attention: the work requires care and attention. It is necessary to monitor the absence of cracks: they are a source of cold and condensation.

Clay

A well-known material that is able to retain heat. Used only when adding other materials. Usually sawdust and glassine are added.

Clay perfectly retains heat, therefore it is used for insulation.

Sequence of work:

lay glassine or any other analogue thereof;
mix clay and sawdust (prepare a solution);
apply the mixture in a layer of 15 cm, allow to dry. If there are cracks, they need to be rubbed with clay.

Warming from the inside

What to do if there is no access to the space above the ceiling? There is an exit. True, you should be prepared for the fact that the height will decrease somewhat. Now the insulation will be from the inside. How to carry out work?

It's simple: first comes a layer of vapor barrier, then insulation, then another layer of vapor barrier.

Why are two layers needed? They prevent the dampness of the rafters, the ceiling from the inside and the insulation. Only after that you can already hem the decorative ceiling. How to do the work?

The first layer of vapor barrier is attached. The same parchment will do. It can be smeared with glue in several places.
A mounting rail is stuffed through the vapor barrier. It is better not to rush and do everything as carefully as possible: holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the mounting rails, then you need to carefully tighten them with a screwdriver.
Thermal insulation is fixed. Styrofoam is inserted between the rails.
The second layer of the vapor barrier is attached to the rail.
The entire structure is masked by PVC panels.

Expanded clay

Another most simple and affordable method after sawdust. Pros:

ecologically pure;
unlike sawdust, it does not burn;
resistant to temperature changes;
not afraid of rodents, fungi and insects;
simple installation technology;
low price;
easy to do by hand.

Expanded clay insulation scheme

All work is done outside. First, the already mentioned steam and waterproofing are carried out. Even a simple PVC film will do. It is better not to use roofing material: it can release harmful toxins. Stages of work:

The pipe outlet and wiring are insulated with non-combustible materials. Sheets of iron or metal pipes are suitable.
Waterproofing is rolled out over the entire area. Joints need to be processed. Waterproofing is securely fixed with a stapler or special adhesive tape.
Vapor barrier is laid. Suitable overlapping technology. Then everything is fixed with a stapler.
5 cm of mashed soft clay should be laid on the vapor barrier layer.
Expanded clay is already poured onto the clay. How to determine the layer thickness? It can be from 15 cm or more.
A screed is laid on the expanded clay - a layer of cement and sand. This will protect the material.

There is a foam ceiling tiles– it in itself protects quite well from the cold.
Do not stop at the insulation of the ceiling. Walls and floors can also transmit heat.
If there are difficulties in warming with your own hands, it is better to contact the masters who will do everything correctly. An unreliably insulated ceiling is practically of no use.
Drywall filing requires the use of a galvanized iron profile. Why is this needed? If this is not done, you can soon suffer from a fallen structure.
In a wooden house, it is better to insulate the ceiling in the summer months, so that by autumn and cold weather, excess moisture has time to evaporate.

Insulation of the ceiling in a wooden house will protect the room from the inside from heat loss. If the ceiling is not insulated, all the work should be done immediately upon settlement.

The difference between the methods lies in the installation technology and the materials used:

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by subsequent surface finishing with drywall or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor-permeable properties. These can be: mineral or basalt wool, penofol.
External insulation of the ceiling is carried out in the attic. A more economical and profitable option, as it does not require further finishing works if the use of an attic room is not provided. It is recommended to use a vapor barrier material to prevent moisture from reaching the ceiling. Most often used: foam, penoizol, mineral wool, expanded clay.

The choice of insulation

The main requirements that a heater must meet:

do not emit toxic substances;
be resistant to moisture;
have a low flammability.

Popular materials for home energy saving work

Mineral wool in the form of sheets or rolls is widely used in construction work. The characteristic of a heater meets technical requirements of thermal insulation. The use in residential premises is dictated by the absence of toxic substances in the composition and excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool has components of limestone, basalt, diabase and dolomite.

Rocks endow the material with valuable qualities:

low degree of thermal conductivity;
resistance to temperature changes;
lack of flammability;
ecological characteristic.

And yet the material has disadvantages:

ability to absorb moisture;
during installation, be sure to use a waterproofing film;
additionally process the seams of the joints with mounting foam for better sealing;
for fixing the insulation, a crate is made of a wooden bar or profiles;
relatively short service life (10-15 years).

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

flexible surface means finishing the ceiling with a suspended structure with a frame;
it is problematic to fix the material on some surfaces;
to increase thermal protection, it is recommended to use mineral wool.

The advantages are:

moisture resistance;
good thermal conductivity;
light weight, excluding structural reinforcement;
simple installation.

The disadvantages include:

easy flammability;
instability to the effects of ultraviolet rays and solvents;
low resistance to mechanical damage.

Penoizol is a liquid foamed foam. To insulate the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment for applying a binder to the surface.

Material advantages:

affordable price;
thermal insulation qualities;
resistance to ignition;
easily fills hard-to-reach places;
safe operation.

Flaws:

lack of special equipment excludes self-assembly;
low resistance to mechanical stress;
the first 2-3 weeks after installation, it evaporates a small amount of a toxic substance;
ability to absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself warming

If you follow the technological process and make right choice material, installation is quite capable of doing it yourself.

Insulation of the ceiling inside the room using mineral wool

To complete the work, you will need material:

mineral wool;
metal profiles or wooden bars 150x30 mm;
hardware;
vapor barrier film;
staples;
mounting foam;
dowels with a wide hat;
drywall.

Set of tools:

perforator;
roulette;
hammer;
screwdriver;
scissors;
construction knife.

Installation steps

On the ceiling, make a crate of their wooden bars or a metal profile in increments of 50 cm.
Cut the insulation to the size of the crate cell with an increase of 2 cm on the sides.
Lay mineral wool in the cells without tamping it.
Treat the joints of the insulation with mounting foam for sealing. The foam will also serve as resistance to the shrinkage of the insulation.
Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material should overlap by 10 cm. Using staples, fix the film to the crate.
Finish the ceiling using drywall sheets.

Ceiling insulation in the attic using foam

Materials required for installation:

foam sheets 40 mm thick;
mounting foam;
OSB sheets 15-18 mm;
hardware.

Tools:

drill;
hacksaw;
hammer;
metalwork knife;
screwdriver.

Installation steps

Clear the attic of debris. If there are damaged spots or holes, repair them with a cement or gypsum mixture.
Put the foam on the surface, tightly docking with each other.
Process the connecting seams with mounting foam.
Cover the top with OSB sheets (15-18 mm) or boards.

If you plan to use the attic as an attic, the insulated surface must be filled with a cement screed, at least 5 cm thick. Reinforcing mesh must be used.

Insulation in the attic using foam sheets must be supplemented with a finish in the form of a screed or wooden boards. Unprotected foam is subject to mechanical damage that will affect its functionality.
Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
Mineral wool must not be compressed. Losing structure, it loses valuable properties.
Built-in lamps in the insulated ceiling should be mounted with a fence from the material with plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
To increase thermal protection, you can lay the attic in a complex way: with foam plastic and mineral wool. Layers of insulation should resemble brickwork.
Use a marked film for vapor barrier. The use of ordinary polyethylene is not allowed.
When using penofol for insulation in the attic, lay the foil down.

Living in a rather harsh climate imposes a serious obligation to keep the heat in the room. Especially if you have a spacious private house and at least a third of the heat loss falls on the ceiling surface. Add here more losses through window and door openings - and we get a completely bleak picture. Today we will tell you about how to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic in a private house - as it turned out, this is enough simple procedure which everyone can handle. Carefully study our detailed instructions - and start saving heat in the house today.

Benefits of insulation from the outside

If in the conditions of multi-apartment panel houses, insulation is carried out directly in the room, then for owners of private real estate there is a choice: to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic, if it is present in a private house, or to do without basic option from inside the room.

The first method has a number of undeniable advantages:

additional insulation of the floor and a significant extension of its service life;
the decision to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic in a private house does not affect the height of the room below;
convenience of sheathing;
reliable protection against the appearance of condensate in the floor pie;
preservation interior decoration living quarters;
quick replacement of floor cladding;
easier, cheaper, more convenient.

Second option - insulation from the inside- also common, but it is mainly used when the height of the ceilings allows you to sacrifice a dozen or two centimeters without any damage to your own comfort.

What material to use?

The main criteria for choosing a suitable material are thermal conductivity, hardness, resistance to any kind of pressure and deformation.

Based on this, the optimal choice with the correct course of work will be any of the following materials:

basalt slabs of extreme hardness;
extruded polystyrene foam;
durable foam;
polyurethane foam;
vermiculite;
foam glass;
sawdust;
expanded clay.

Sawdust and expanded clay compare favorably with other materials with low cost and full environmental safety. Therefore, you can mark these two options for yourself in advance.

Preparation of tools and materials

Here is what you will definitely need for the quality execution of all planned work:

nails;
screws;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
jigsaw;
hacksaw;
perforator;
mounting foam;
slats;
boards.

Attic preparation

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house from the side of the attic must begin with the preparation of the room, where direct sheathing with heat-saving material will take place. For this:

take away old furniture who often lives her solitary life in such rooms;
clean the floor from dirt and dust;
prepare an exceptionally clean and even base - otherwise the insulation will not fit tightly and all work may go down the drain.

Determination of the exact area

if you know the area of the premises from the passport information of the object, it would be useful to check them personally: often the information from the passport is approximate and rounded up;
use measuring tools to determine the length and width of the room, based on the information received, calculate the exact amount of material for insulation you need.

Base sheathing

If you have chosen as a heater mineral wool or basalt slabs and you don’t know how to insulate the ceiling from the attic side with them correctly, then pay attention to the following algorithm of actions:

first create a vapor barrier layer to prevent the selected material from getting wet - for this, from the incoming side warm air lay a layer of standard rolled vapor barrier (glassine or foil is perfect);
apply a layer of clay mortar, to determine the thickness of the layer, follow the figure up to 2-3 centimeters, such a screed can be additionally reinforced with wire reinforcement, but this is not a mandatory procedure;
lay the selected heat insulator between the floor lags - this will level the load transferred to the floor, partially transferring the weight to the beams at the floor;
waterproofing stage: for this you can use the usual polyethylene film, it will perfectly cope with the protection of the insulation from moisture and allow it to maintain its heat-insulating properties;
installation stage of the floor pie: such a rough flooring from the boards will allow you to move freely around the attic and at the same time protect your insulation structure from mechanical damage.

In the case of choosing some other material for insulating the ceiling from the attic side, the creation of a vapor barrier layer is not a mandatory installation point (read about vapor barrier for a ceiling in a wooden floor).

Clarity, giving a better idea of how to properly insulate the ceiling from the attic side:

avoid the use of glass wool, cinder blocks and heaters of similar composition - they do not belong to the class of environmentally friendly materials and can greatly harm your health;
when using polystyrene foam to insulate the ceiling in a private house, do not forget to seal the joints with mounting foam - otherwise, strong heat losses and consistent destruction of the structure you have mounted are inevitable;
sawdust is one of the cheapest and easiest ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the attic side, but at the same time it poses a considerable threat due to the potential for fermentation: this can result in especially dangerous fumes;
it is best to insulate the ceiling with sawdust in summer season, during extreme heat - and be sure to treat them with a solution of boric and borax.

Conclusion

If you have your own personal property in the suburbs, then knowing how to insulate the ceiling from the attic in a private house is your responsibility. Heat loss- one of the reasons for establishing an unhealthy atmosphere in a private house, high humidity and rapid deformation of ceilings. The presence of an attic allows you to significantly simplify the procedure for warming - and thereby maintain the required height of the room below. Of course, you can always additionally insulate the room from the inside - such economic vigilance will become a reliable and guaranteed protection against heat loss in the house. As a result, you can significantly save on space heating. Proper execution sheathing with a heat-insulating layer is a guarantee that your home will always be comfortable. And isn't that the main thing?

In the conditions of severe Russian winters, the problem of high-quality insulation of a house is a matter of, if not survival, then at least the comfort of life and health of your family members. In a “cold” cottage without any thermal insulation, heating costs will beat all conceivable records, and colds will become the norm for its residents.

But this will not happen if you make sound insulation of walls, floors and ceilings in the house. This is especially true for ceilings - heated air always tends to rise, and if it does not meet a barrier in the form of a layer of heat-insulating material on its way, it will simply go outside. And you end up with condensation on the ceiling and b O higher heating costs.

The quality of ceiling insulation is highly dependent on what material would be used and how well it was installed. And at this point, the owner is faced with the question: what to choose? Today on the market building materials there are many types of heaters, and each of them is presented as the best in its segment. This article should help you solve the problem of choosing thermal insulation materials, it will tell you about their features, installation methods, advantages and disadvantages.

Ways to insulate the ceiling

First you need to talk about ways to insulate the ceiling. In our case, this will be the ceiling of the last floor, above which there is only an attic and a roof - it is through it that the main heat losses occur.

The first method of insulation is external. If you do not plan to make an attic under the roof, then this method is suitable for you. A frame is mounted on the floor of the attic with the help of a wooden beam and boards, inner space which is filled with insulating material. The design of the frame depends on what kind of insulation you use.

If you want to arrange an attic or a small warehouse in the attic, then the ceiling should be insulated from the inside.. In this case, in the rooms of the last floor, the above-mentioned frame is formed on the ceilings, fixed with dowels-nails. After laying the heat-insulating material, it is closed with drywall, plastic panels or clapboard. This method of insulation is very time consuming and also reduces the height of the dwelling. Therefore, at the stage of building a house, this moment should be taken into account and the walls of the last floor should be made a little higher.

Advice! A layer of vapor barrier should be laid between the insulation and the ceiling, otherwise the moisture rising with the air will be absorbed by the insulation, which will significantly worsen its properties. In addition, dampness under the roof is not in the best way affects the strength of the rafters.

Insulation of ceilings in the house with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fibrous heat insulator produced in the form of rolls or plates. The composition of the material is determined by GOST R 52953-2008, and in total there are three types of mineral wool - stone, slag and glass (better known as glass wool). Let's consider them in more detail.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

GOST R 52953-2008 “Heat-insulating materials and products. Terms and Definitions"

Stone wool is made from various rocks such as diabase or gabbro, and also contains clay, limestone, dolomite and a binder containing formaldehyde resins. The average coefficient of thermal conductivity of stone wool is 0.08-0.12 W/(mK). In our case, the lower its value, the more material suitable for the role of a heater.

Important! One of the biggest drawbacks of mineral wool is that it can contain substances in its composition that, when heated, release phenols into the air that are dangerous to humans. There have been discussions and disputes around this issue for a long time. Basalt wool is considered the safest, which contains the minimum amount of potentially harmful substances.

Unlike stone, slag wool is produced from blast-furnace slags and other metallurgy waste. The thermal conductivity coefficient averages 0.47 W / (mK), which, combined with its high hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture), makes slag wool an unsuitable material for ceiling insulation. In addition, it has residual acidity, so it should be kept away from metal pipes, beams and other products.

Glass wool ranks first in the quality of thermal insulation among mineral wool - 0.03 W / (mK). It also has a very low price. The disadvantages include the fact that particles of this material can harm a person by getting on the skin, eyes or lungs. But this is to some extent characteristic of all types of mineral wool, therefore, when working with them, it is imperative to wear gloves, goggles, a respirator mask and closed work clothes.

The main advantage of all types of mineral wool is that this material is very convenient for transportation, carrying and installation, as it has a low weight. In addition, it is non-flammable and at very high temperatures ah can only sinter (while losing its heat-insulating properties). And it is especially important for country houses that mineral wool is not an attractive place for rodents, insects, fungi or mold.

The most famous manufacturers of this material are Isover, Ursa and Paroc. If quality is important to you, then when you go to a hardware store, look for mineral wool from these companies. When choosing, also pay attention to the density of the material - the ceiling may not withstand too dense and heavy samples of mineral wool.

The process of warming should begin by determining the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling, because first you need to calculate how much mineral wool, vapor and waterproofing films you will need. Technology will be discussed next. external way ceiling insulation. If you need internal insulation, follow the same instructions, but swap the layers of hydro and vapor barrier.

glass wool prices

glass wool

Ceiling area calculation

In addition to the insulation itself, you will need wooden boards or a metal profile, tools for cutting mineral wool, protective clothing and accessories (gloves, respirator and goggles) and fasteners.

First, we lay a vapor barrier film on the attic floor, while making sure that there are no gaps on it. Laying should be overlapped, the seams should be glued with a special vapor barrier tape.
On top of it we mount a crate made of wood or a galvanized profile. The distance between the slats should be several - a couple of centimeters - less than the width of the sheet or roll of mineral wool. So the insulation will fit tighter. The height of the crate should exceed the thickness of the heat-insulating layer by 1-2 centimeters in order to subsequently ensure air circulation between it and the waterproofing.
We unpack the mineral wool and put it in the space between the slats. If the material is laid in several layers, the next layer should overlap the seams of the previous one.
From above, we attach waterproofing to the crate using a furniture stapler. At the same time, as already mentioned above, there should be a small space between it and the mineral wool for air circulation.

Foam insulation

Styrofoam is considered the second most popular after mineral wool. Foam plastics are called polymeric materials, consisting of cells filled with gas. That is why foam plastics perform well as a heat-insulating material. Of these, in everyday life you can most often find polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. On average, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the foam is 0.041 W / (mK), which, in terms of insulation qualities, makes it similar to glass wool.

Like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam have low price and low weight. The latter property makes their transportation, storage and installation on the ceiling convenient. However, polystyrene has a number of disadvantages that make it not the best choice for a residential building.

Styrofoam burns well and at the same time emits many substances dangerous to humans. Moreover, they can stand out even with a slight heating.
Mice can live in the foam layer, but it is worth noting that it is not a breeding ground for insects or fungus.
In a room whose ceiling is insulated with foam, a "greenhouse effect" may occur.

There are two ways to mount foam - on the frame and on glue. The first is in many ways similar to mineral wool insulation, but when laying foam sheets between the slats, “liquid nails” must be applied to their sides. And about the installation of this material with glue, you should tell in more detail and step by step.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

The surface on which the foam will be laid is thoroughly washed and cleaned from possible irregularities. If necessary, it can be primed.
Glue is applied to the foam sheets (tile works well) and after three minutes of waiting, the sheet must be pressed against the surface of the attic or ceiling.
Repeat the procedure with all other foam sheets.
Apply a layer of reinforcing plaster on the sheets and lay the fiberglass mesh. After drying, the mesh is covered with another layer of plaster.

Penoizol as a heater

An alternative to polystyrene foams and polyurethane foams can be penoizol, which is a "liquid" foam. Thanks to special additives it gets rid of the main disadvantages of its solid counterparts - attractiveness to rodents and flammability. The disadvantage of penoizol is that for its application it is necessary to call a team of workers with special equipment, and this can be quite expensive.

The insulation technology using penoizol is simple: we lay a vapor barrier and fill the space between attic beams a layer of insulation to a thickness of 20-30 centimeters. From above, you can additionally lay a layer of roofing material and lay a plank floor.

Ecowool

The prefix "eco-" in the title of this material is not for the purpose of advertising. Ecowool is indeed an environmentally friendly material, as it consists of 80% natural cellulose. The remaining 20% is various additives, such as lingin, which gives the structure stickiness, or boric acid and antiseptics that protect ecowool from decay, fungus and rodents. Also, the composition of this material includes flame retardants, thanks to which ecowool does not burn, but only smolders under the influence of flame and very high temperatures. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.038 W / (mK).

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling with environmentally friendly cotton wool - dry and wet. In the first case, the material is placed in the prepared "cells" of the ceiling, but at the same time its thermal insulation properties will be only 60-70% of the possible ones. The second method uses special equipment that moistens ecowool and sprays it under high pressure. Upon contact with water, the insulation becomes sticky and adheres tightly to the surface of the ceiling or attic. The disadvantage of ecowool is just that for its “wet” application you will need special equipment and people who know how to work with it.

Consider the stages of ceiling insulation using ecowool in an external way.

Ecowool prices

The surface of the ceiling is cleaned and leveled - it is necessary to get rid of dirt and debris.
A crate made of wooden beams is mounted, similar to a crate for laying mineral wool. If desired, this stage can be skipped, but then it will be impossible to use the attic.
A layer of vapor barrier film is laid. If necessary, it is possible to wrap the crate structure itself in it.
With the help of a blowing machine, the space between the slats is filled with ecowool. Special attention should be given to cracks and hard-to-reach places. The minimum layer of insulation should be 25 centimeters, but if you live in an area with very cold winters, then the thickness should be increased to 40-50 cm.
A waterproofing film is laid over the ecowool, overlapping and fastening the seams with a special adhesive tape.

Video - External attic insulation with ecowool

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay - loose thermal insulation material, which are stones made of baked clay with a porous structure. It is very popular as a floor insulation, but it is also suitable for ceilings if they are insulated externally. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is 0.18 W / (mK). Due to its composition, this insulation does not burn, does not smolder or melt, does not emit harmful substances into the air and is unattractive to fungus or mice.

But at the same time, expanded clay is inferior in terms of thermal insulation properties to foam plastic or mineral wool, and, moreover, it is a very dense and heavy material, therefore it can only be used for fairly strong ceilings with support beams.

The technology for insulating the ceiling with expanded clay is as follows.

An alternative to expanded clay among bulk heat insulators can be foam glass, also often called foam crumb. Its thermal conductivity is 0.08 W / (mK), which is more than two times less than expanded clay (recall that in the case of insulation, the lower this indicator, the better).

sawdust as insulation

Finally, we come to a material that has been used as insulation for decades, even before the advent of foam and mineral wool. These are sawdust. They can be used both independently, simply filling the attic with them, and as part of a mixture with clay or cement.

The only advantage of such a heater is its cheapness - you can either use the waste of your own construction, or go to the nearest sawmill and get the material for free or for a symbolic price. But does the cheapness of sawdust outweigh all its shortcomings?

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

Sawdust burns well, therefore, when using them, all electrical wiring in the attic should be protected with metal boxes. In addition, this material should not be used near a chimney or chimney.
Rodents, insects, or a fungus can appear in the sawdust, and without impregnation with an antiseptic, these problems cannot be eliminated.
The material shrinks over time, which significantly worsens its thermal insulation properties. In addition, you will have to add fresh sawdust regularly.
With such a heater, it is impossible to use the space under the roof - neither to arrange an attic, nor to store old furniture and other things in the attic.

Cement-sawdust mortar is prepared as follows: for 10 parts of sawdust of small or medium fraction, 1 part of cement and 1 part of lime are taken. Substances are thoroughly mixed with each other until a dry mixture is formed. Then you need to take 5-10 parts of water mixed with a few tablespoons of copper sulfate. Vitriol in our case acts as an antiseptic, which will not allow sawdust insulation to rot. Pour the mixture and bring it to a homogeneous mass. Checking if it is ready is quite simple: take the cement-sawdust mixture and squeeze it in your fist. If no water drips from it, then it is ready.

Next, you need to prepare the attic for insulation. To do this, you need to lay a vapor barrier material and process everything wooden elements flame retardant (impregnation that protects against combustion). After that, you need to lay out the cement-sawdust mixture, level it and leave it for a couple of weeks so that it dries completely.

Important! If necessary, cement can be replaced with clay. Also remember that when drying in the cement-sawdust insulation, cracks may appear. They need to be sealed with the same mixture.

Outcome

This review of materials for thermal insulation of the ceiling in the house can be completed. Now, having weighed all the pros and cons, you can choose the most suitable insulation for you. Below is a table designed to compare the characteristics of thermal insulation materials.

Table. Comparison of the main parameters of popular heaters.

Name	Density, kg/m3	Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(mK)	combustibility
glass wool	200	0,03	Does not burn, melts
Basalt wool	From 75 to 200, depending on the brand	0,12	Does not burn, melts
Styrofoam	40 to 150	0,041	Burns, emits hazardous substances
Ecowool	40 to 75	0,038	Does not burn, melts
Expanded clay	800 to 1200	0,18	Does not burn
Sawdust	200 to 400	0,08	Are burning

Do not want to breathe phenols and are a fan of environmental cleanliness? Then you should opt for ecowool, but here you will have to provide for the costs of hiring a specialist who will insulate the ceiling using this material. The most optimal in terms of cost, ease of installation, safety and thermal insulation properties is mineral wool, while basalt wool should be singled out separately, as it contains the least amount of harmful substances and has the widest range of allowable temperature. The cheapest options would be sawdust or expanded clay. Styrofoam is relatively inexpensive, has good thermal insulation, but the substances emitted by it can be dangerous.

Video - What is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a private house? Comparison of options

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