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How to cover grapes. How to cover grapes. The main mistakes of beginners

Only proper preparation will providevine a prosperous wintering. Autumn starts every year different time. At the same time and temperature regime it is difficult to predict, which means that every time you need to prepare for the onset of cold weather, assuming the worst option. You need to be prepared for unexpected early frosts, which are especially detrimental to unripe annual shoots. To do this, the process of care during the growing season is built in such a way that the entire annual growth of the vine meets the beginning of cold weather as a qualitatively mature one. This is facilitated by the cessation of watering the grape bush during the ripening of berries, the exception nitrogen fertilizers from the last dressings, thinning bushes and removing leaves after grape harvest by the end of autumn - defoliation, later shelter, in late October, early November.

Key Factors Influencing Successful Overwintering vine:

• directly winter hardiness of the variety;
• weather and climate characteristics of the given region and the current year;
• how the bush was formed;
  
• crop load level;
• soil condition during the growing season;
• agricultural technology applied to grapes;
  
• way to shelter the vine for the winter.

Covering grapes with earth.

The simplest and most ancient way of sheltering a vine is directly with the ground, it is widely used by amateur vine growers, it is also used in industrial scale. The effectiveness of sheltering grapes will depend not only on the size of the earthen rampart and grooves in which the vines are laid, but also on the method of shelter, as well as on the moisture content of the soil used.

In winter, dry land cools to a greater extent and freezes to a greater depth than wet. As a result, in order to increase the heat capacity of the soil and reduce thermal conductivity, it is recommended to perform winter water recharge irrigation. In the case of a snowless winter, it is very useful to repeat the watering in the spring before releasing the vines in the same ditches.

Covering with soil also has its disadvantages, experts in the field of viticulture believe that earthen winter protection reduces the frost resistance of the vine, while the most favorable conditions for wintering a grape bush are at a depth of about 30–40 centimeters. Due to the high probability of kidney freezing as a result of jumps low temperatures, the thickness of the earth layer above the eyes of covered lashes of grapes less than 15–20 centimeters is unacceptable, this is especially true for light sandy soils. It is also necessary to take into account the impact of rainfall that erodes the earthen rampart above the vine, and during the thaw period the soil settles, which does not contribute to protection from frost.

Excessively careful shelter of the vine, especially on black soil, can cause scorching and, as a result, the death of the bush's buds. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to eliminate the contact of the sheltered vine with the bulk layer of the earth, for this purpose it is rational to lay fragments of slate over the tied lashes of the bush, plastic pipes, waste boards or other similar material that is at hand, and only then cover it with earth. As a result of such manipulations, an air layer is formed under the bulk soil layer, which is an exceptional thermal insulator that significantly expands the temperature range. negative impacts on the grape bush both in frost and during the thaw. It would be useful to cover the bulk shaft from above with any organic material to prevent blurring under the influence of rainfall, straw, or tops remaining from harvesting the garden, or other similar material will do.

Before covering the grape lashes, armed with a broom, it is advisable to lightly whitewash the vines; any lime can be used. This technique replaces the treatment with iron sulphate, prevents the formation of mold during wintering, eliminates the overheating of the vine, nullifies the defeat of spotted necrosis, and helps the grape bush to tolerate temperature fluctuations under cover more painlessly.

Shelter of grapes shields.

The technique of sheltering grapes with shields is quite simple, it is made wooden structure, consisting of two or three segments, shields measuring about one and a half meters long and 30–35 centimeters wide. Segments can be separate or fastened together door hinges. The planes of the surfaces of the shields are upholstered inside and outside with roofing felt or roofing felt. As a result, we get a gable stationary shelter with an air gap inside the structure, which will regularly protect the grape bush for more than one year. From both ends of the shelter, the holes are closed with roofing paper, additional wooden shields of the appropriate size are attached or simply sprinkled with soil.

The grape vine inside the shield shelter must also be treated with lime. It is advisable to lay the lashes not directly on the ground, but put something under them to exclude contact with the ground, any material will do, for example, pieces of boards, branches left over from autumn pruning fruit trees or just normal plastic bottles from under the water. In the event of severe frosts, it does not hurt to cover the construction of shields from above with some kind of heat-insulating material, but if the temperature does not fall below 10–15 degrees, the shields themselves will be quite enough.

In order for the covering structure of the shields to last longer, as an additional shelter, it is better to refrain from the ground. Old empty bags, pieces of tarpaulin are quite suitable, if there is a forest nearby - pine branches, the so-called spruce branches, even just straw will protect the vine with high quality.

The only drawback of sheltering grapes with shield structures is, of course, the laboriousness of their manufacture. They will be appropriate if you have several vine bushes on your farm, having made shelter structures from shields once, you can not worry about the safety of the vine for many winters. A similar method of shelter is very suitable for summer residents whose vine bushes are surrounded by a lawn and digging ditches for laying lashes is impossible. Without a doubt, this method of sheltering grapes will be problematic for owners of large vineyards, on the other hand, sheltering in the old fashioned way with earth requires a lot of labor and, probably, one should think about what would be more rational.

Shelter of grapes with slate or plastic grooves.

As the name implies, the method is also elementary, with the exception of some nuances. We tie the lashes of grapes divided into two sides into so-called fashinki, peculiar bundles, using old bags or something similar as wrapping material. We lay the grapes in pre-dug grooves about 20 centimeters deep and pin them with wire staples directly to the ground, without any bedding. We preliminarily process the vines with lime in the manner described earlier. On top of the bundles of vines, we impose plastic or slate grooves end-to-end or with overlap, while the resulting minor gaps do not play a role. Then we cover the grooves with a layer of soil, while inside, a thermally insulating air layer is again formed.

Terms of shelter and release of grapes from shelter.

For a specific region own terms, for example, the climatic conditions of the Rostov region suggest sheltering grapes at the end of October, the deadline is November 5, in the southern regions - the 10th of the same month. It is, of course, safer to cover the grapes before the specified period, but it is undesirable, since the bush will not receive enough nutrients, the outflow of which is still ongoing until the specified time. Vine growers consider it ideal to cover the grape bush immediately after leaf fall.

It is also necessary to release the bushes from under the shelter after wintering carefully, on the one hand, it is undesirable to rush earlier due date for this region, due to the possibility of unexpected spring frosts. WITH reverse side late opening of the grape bush with the beginning of sap flow, with sufficient warming of the earth, threatens to open buds under cover. This factor is especially characteristic for chernozem soils which warm up earlier than light soils. The hatched etiolated sprouts of the buds are very tender and brittle, it will not be possible to release the vine from the shelter when they are swollen without loss, some of the eyes will be damaged when the bush opens, many will die, falling immediately into daylight, and as a result, a significant part of the crop will be lost.

A mandatory event in the spring, which also delays the opening of grape buds for several days, spraying the vine with a solution iron sulphate, at the rate of 400 grams per bucket of water. They spray the vine immediately, only freeing it from under cover and shaking off the adhering earth, tying it to the trellis.

If, nevertheless, the opening period of the grape bush was missed and part of the etiolated buds was lost, there is no need to despair, after 8–12 days new shoots will develop from the replacement and sleeping buds, but they are fruitful, only in some varieties. On barren shoots, by early deep pinching of the tops, by 6–8 centimeters, you can call up early stepchildren, which on many varieties will give additional small clusters, thereby reanimating the grape bush, returning the crop. Pinching can be done only when a barren shoot releases a formed tendril. I’ll warn you right away that additional clusters awakened by pinching will be able to ripen only in the southern regions, since time has still been lost significantly.

How not to cover grapes for the winter.

With a large formation of a bush, for example, the so-called Don bowl, not wanting to stretch the vine when sheltering for the winter in full length, some growers fold it in a ring. Indeed, theoretically it is easier to cover the vine in this way, rather old car tire. But as practice shows, this method of winter shelter is the worst thing you can think of to undermine the health of a grape bush.

When twisted into a ring, grape vines and annual vines receive numerous cracks and mechanical damage not to mention the deplorable state of the eyes, most of which will be irretrievably lost by spring. Expect decent harvest from such injured grape bushes would be, to put it mildly, strange. The tormented sleeves of such grape bushes, almost without exception, are subject to the disease of spotted necrosis and, accordingly, become unusable several times faster.

It is necessary to make it a rule that grape lashes for sheltering for the winter must be laid in length, two opposite sides and take this into account directly when forming a bush, allowing the growth of the vine in the right direction.

Large-fruited table grapes in a growing area that is not traditional for viticulture is not an adventurous idea for a long time, but a fait accompli. My daughter and variety "Flora" (Laura). Belarus Gomel.

This question arises before any novice grower who decides to start on his site, in a non-traditional shelter zone for viticulture, this wonderful plant.

But almost all "southern" varieties of large-fruited table grapes have frost resistance not exceeding -18 degrees, which makes them unsuitable for traditional ways growing in regions with winter temperatures below this.

By carrying out the winter shelter of vines, we destroy the only obstacle on the way to our goal - to obtain grapes in terms of taste and size that are in no way inferior to our southern neighbors.

There is nothing difficult about hiding. After spending half an hour, we get a great opportunity to grow large-fruited table grapes early term, and in the presence of a greenhouse and an average ripening period.

In our today's article, and the photo and video materials attached to it, we will try to consider the main types of winter shelter for a grape plant.

Preparing to shelter grapes in winter

Regardless of the choice of shelter, the first thing to do is to carry out a set of measures to prepare our vineyard for winter:

Types and methods of winter shelter of grapes

To begin with, let's try to list the main types of shelters from the simplest to the most complex and determine their weak and strengths so that you, my reader, can choose the method of wintering a grape plant that is most suitable for your conditions and possibilities.

Covered with snow

This is the simplest type of shelter, but, unfortunately, it is not suitable for all regions. The essence of such a shelter lies in the natural shelter of the vines with snow. The grower only needs to remove the vine from the trellis and, bending it to the ground, fix it with U-shaped brackets or some kind of load. All. Nature will do the rest. Snow is an excellent insulation, under a layer of 30 or more centimeters, the vine is not afraid of any frosts. But this type of shelter is suitable only for regions with constant and stable snow cover throughout the entire winter period and the absence of temperature fluctuations in the positive direction. Unfortunately, such conditions are possible only in Siberia, and even then no one is immune from a sharp cooling, in the absence of sufficient snow cover. And what can we say about Belarus, Ukraine or central Russia with our constant thaws and sharp cold snaps on bare ground ...

Shelter with spruce branches

Shelter with spruce branches

Also a very simple way to hide. As in the first version, the vine tied into bundles is bent and fixed to the ground along the row or twisted in a ring around the base of the bush. Next, the vine is covered with a layer of spruce branches. The more severe the expected winter, the thicker the layer of spruce branches is needed.

Despite its simplicity, this type of shelter is quite reliable, but it is applicable only on young plantings or small vineyards due to the difficulty of annually extracting a large amount of this covering material.

To extract spruce branches, it is not at all necessary to damage the trees in the nearby forest, it is enough to drive up to the place where logging or sanitary felling is carried out and quickly and without problems collect the required amount of spruce branches.

Shelter with earth from the aisle

A fairly simple, but very time-consuming type of shelter. A trench 20-30 cm deep is dug along the vine row (shovel bayonet), the width depends on the thickness of the bunch of vines tied together. A grapevine is laid in this trench and covered with earth from the aisles.

An earthen rampart 15-20 cm high is created above the trench, protecting the vine from low temperatures. Shelter with earth is the most ancient and widespread type of shelter for vines, however, it has both undeniable advantages and significant disadvantages.

Pros:

• Reliably protects the vine from low temperatures
• Absolutely no financial investment required.

Minuses:

We examined the classic way of covering grapes with earth. As you can see, this method has many negative points, but there are also alternative way shelter with the help of the earth, partially devoid of some negative qualities. A viticulturist from Ukraine Alexander Krot will introduce you to him in this video:

Video shelter grapes for the winter

Dry shelter grapes

This is, without any doubt, the The best way vine shelters winter time.

It consists in sheltering bunches of grapevine pressed to the ground with two layers - heat-insulating and moisture-proof. Materials such as straw, wood shavings, pine litter (fallen needles), spruce and pine spruce branches, etc. can be used as insulation. I do not recommend using foliage as a heater fruit trees and shrubs, as well as the foliage of grapes directly, it has a very high fungal infection background.

As a waterproofing - an opaque film (we do not need a greenhouse during early spring thaws), old pieces of roofing material, linoleum, rubber, slate, etc.

Prepared and tied vines are laid on the ground along a row and covered with a thick layer of insulation. Then the whole thing is covered from above waterproofing material, pressing it on the sides with bricks or sprinkling it with earth.

Dry shelter using a frame of arcs. Fiberglass acts as a waterproofing layer. Dry shelter of vines. In the role of insulation - straw, waterproofing - roofing material.

Advantages of dry shelter:

• Reliably protects from low temperatures.
• It does not get wet and, accordingly, wetting and decay of vines and buds in conditions of excessive humidity is excluded.
• Allows you to quickly cover large areas of the vineyard.

Minuses:

• Requires financial investment.

Attention!

When arranging a dry shelter with waterproofing layer it is necessary to leave open parts of the shelter - vents. This is necessary to ventilate the shelter and prevent condensation from accumulating under the shelter.

The open ends of this shelter are the vents.

My grape shelter for the winter in Belarus

Since my small vineyard is located in a summer cottage, I do not have free access to straw, shavings and other types of insulation, and it is too troublesome to bring it to the site every season.

At first, I covered the young vineyard with pine spruce branches (by the way, very successfully), finding sanitary deforestation on the way to the dacha, but the vineyard matured and expanded, which prompted me to look for other shelter material.

And I found it - a laminate substrate in rolls. It is made of expanded polystyrene and has a very low thermal conductivity, which makes the substrate only 3-4 mm thick. excellent heater. In addition, it does not allow moisture to pass through and is also a waterproofing layer.

That is, one material performs both functions of a dry shelter - keeping heat from the ground and preventing moisture from entering. And the fact that this material is in rolls is generally a gift of fate. He laid tied bundles of vines along a row of trellises, unwound a roll over them, pressed stones along the edges or sprinkled them with earth - everything is ready. The cost of the material is relatively low, but it will last, with careful handling, for more than one year.

This type of shelter showed excellent results overwintering of grapes not only with me and my colleagues in Belarus, but in more northern regions. Let's not forget the spirits! I do not press the ends of the shelter to the ground and leave them open. To prevent snow from getting under the shelter and excessive movement of cold air through the open ends, I cover them with pine branches.

If, instead of a substrate, less thermal insulation materials(black film, roofing material, etc.), the space between the vine and the covering material can be filled with insulation (straw, pine litter, spruce branches, etc.). You can see more about how to make such a shelter in the video of my colleague and countryman V. Tochilin:

Shelter of seedlings and young vine bushes

If seedlings and young bushes are in a common row, then their shelter is no different from adult bushes. But if they are separate, then you can cover them in simple ways demonstrated in this video:

Time and date of winter shelter of grapes

If there is agreement on the arrangement of a winter shelter among winegrowers, then opinions drastically differ on the timing of this action. Some winegrowers believe that shelter must be carried out in advance, at the slightest threat of sub-zero temperatures, others prefer to wait for stable negative temperatures of -5-6 degrees or more, and only then carry out shelter activities.

Each of the parties has its own arguments and arguments in defense of certain terms of shelter, I will devote separate material to their analysis in the future, but for now, since this is still an author's site, I will write about my personal vision of this issue.

As always, I prefer not to take radical positions in disputes, but by analyzing the opinions of other growers and my own personal experience to find the golden mean precisely for their own conditions for growing grapes:

• A well-ripened vine and grape buds are able to withstand critical minus temperature indicated in the ampelography of the variety. For most even the most delicate varieties, it is at least 14 degrees.
• The first small frosts stimulate chemical and biological processes in the vine aimed at increasing winter hardiness. The so-called "hardening of the vine."
• Vines and buds on poorly matured vines due to disease, over-harvesting, youth or general weakness plants do not reach their varietal parameters for frost resistance and can be damaged even with minor frosts.

From this I drew two simple conclusions:

1. Healthy, well-ripened vines on strong fruit-bearing vine bushes do not need to be hidden under cover until stable nighttime freezing temperatures set in. Small first frosts will only “harden” them and increase the overall frost resistance. In Belarus, this time comes at the end of November.
2. Seedlings, first-year-olds, weakened and poorly ripened for some reason, I temporarily cover the bushes, before the onset of the first frost, with a light covering material (SUF 40 spunbond in 2-3 layers), and then, together with the rest of the vineyard, as it should be with a substrate under the laminate.

That's all wisdom. The strong - we temper, the weak - we protect.

The main mistakes of beginners

• Neglect of the process of preparing vines before shelter.
• Incorrectly chosen method of shelter for your region in general and the characteristics of the site in particular.
• Incorrectly chosen dates for the shelter.
• Excessively sealed shelter with air and moisture-proof materials without leaving any odors.
• Isolation of the vine with insulation material from the ground. The earth is the only source of heat in winter, and if you put insulation between it and the vine, you reduce the whole point of winter shelter to almost nothing.

To grow a fruit vine in a domestic climate, you need to know about the intricacies of cultivation. capricious plant. Lack of snow or sudden thaws can kill all bushes. In the review, we will describe in detail how grapes are properly covered for the winter in the Middle lane.

Well-seasoned grapes

reference Information

The fruit vine is very demanding plant: the lack of heat or moisture negatively affects the yield. But it is even more difficult to please the grapes in winter. Many beginners underestimate the domestic climate and acquire cold-resistant species. The instructions for the varieties say that the frost resistance of individual hybrids reaches -35 degrees, then why do plants freeze out?

Temperature fluctuations and lack of snow at extreme cold destroys even the most resistant species.

If the culture has bare roots, then no cold-resistant characteristics will help protect the grapes from freezing. Harsh winters will destroy any fruit vine.

Severe frosts and temperature fluctuations are very dangerous for young plantations that have not yet formed a protective layer of wood.

The death of plants in the first three or four years of life is the main mistake of novice growers. Freezing occurs at minimal temperature drops.

Frost-damaged vine bush

In addition to frost, grapes do not like sudden thaws in the middle of winter and a sharp cold snap. The plant wakes up and begins to grow buds. Sudden frosts adversely affect the health of crops that take a long time to recover in the spring.

Heavy rains at positive temperatures are dangerous for the roots of the fruit vine. Excess moisture is not absorbed by a sleeping plant, so putrefactive processes and diseases begin.

Shelter methods

To protect the culture from the vagaries of the climate Middle lane, experienced growers have long used proven methods of sheltering the fruit vine. Preparatory work begin in October, when the first frosts have already passed. Such natural procedures will harden young whips.

Laying vines in front of shelter

“The hardened vine becomes light brown and mature. In this case, she will winter well until spring.

Hilling

The simplest and affordable way to protect plants is to encircle the bushes with an earthen rampart, the height of which should not be less than 30 cm. The soil is carefully loosened and broken. Be sure to cover the roots and part of the stem. Experienced gardeners add sawdust to the soil, and cover it with spruce branches on top.

Hilling a young vine bush

Before the procedure, be sure to water the plants in advance: the water in the soil will protect the crop in case of a sharp cold snap. At least 200 liters of liquid are poured onto each bush.

Do not forget about preventive treatments with Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol. For the winter, aggressive chemicals will not damage young shoots and will not affect their growth, so spraying is carried out according to the instructions.

soil

This is the most reliable and time-consuming method to protect the fruit vine from the vagaries of the climate of the Middle Strip. Shelter in this way is effective for young and adult shoots. Before wintering, the plants and the soil next to them are carefully watered and treated for fungi and infections. Bordeaux mixture- this is an excellent antiseptic that will protect the culture from decay.

The grapes are removed from the trellises and each lash is carefully examined. In order to avoid problems with wintering, the gardener must foresee all the nuances, so they cut:

• branches (immature, diseased, old, dry);
• antennae;
• stepsons;
• foliage.

Shelter with soil cannot be done at high groundwater

The remains of the lashes are collected in bundles, tied with twine and bent to the ground. Experienced growers isolate the crop from the ground with a covering of boards or dry branches. To prevent the plant from rising, it is recommended to fix the structure with special metal brackets.

The bushes are carefully sprinkled with soil. The height of the hill must not be less than 30 cm for mature grapes and not less than 50 cm for young grapes.

Shelter made of roofing felt or slate will help protect plants from excess moisture. With this method of wintering, all plantings survive until spring. Remember: you need to monitor the amount of liquid so that the vine does not get wet.

Tires

This method of shelter for the winter in the Middle lane is recommended for young plants whose lashes are still flexible. The fruit vine after cutting is completely placed in the middle of the tire. Two tires are used:

• the first digs in level with the ground;
• the second is installed on top.

The structure is covered with slate or roofing material, and then covered with soil. To prevent light rubber from being blown away by the wind, the tires are pressed to the ground with bricks. Experienced gardeners make small holes in the coating so that putrefactive processes do not start due to high humidity inside the shelter.

mini greenhouse

Frost-resistant varieties are advised to cover for the winter with plastic bags from cereals or cement. Such material perfectly passes oxygen to plants and does not allow moisture from precipitation.

Mini greenhouse made of PVC pipes

So that the wind does not rip off the structure, it is pressed down with bricks and covered with soil. After snow falls, the structure is sprinkled with natural insulation.

In the absence of suitable bags, growers cover the bushes with roofing material. To prevent damage to the plants under the weight of the material, it is recommended to drive small arcs of strong wire into the ground. Remember: be sure to ventilate the greenhouse so that the plants inside do not start to rot.

box shelters

Professionals use collapsible wooden structures that perfectly protect grapes in winter. When the temperature drops to +8 degrees, shelters are assembled in the form of houses and installed on bushes prepared for wintering. To prevent moisture from seeping through the walls, the inside of the box is covered with a waterproof layer. The lower edges are sprinkled with soil and left for the winter.

Box shelter with sawdust

In the spring, the structure is dismantled and the plants are ready for the vegetative period. At correct operation, such "houses" serve for a very long time.

Winegrowers order collapsible structures that do not take up much space during summer storage.

Vertical

Frost-resistant grape varieties or culture on arbors are often covered in vertical position. After cutting and all preventive treatments, the plant is tied into bundles and tied to a high wooden stake. Each bush is wrapped heat-insulating material and secure with twine.

Even in the most aggressive cold weather, the fruit vine will be protected from freezing. But we must not forget about the insulation of the roots, since without hilling the whole structure does not make sense.

Vertical shelter on a trellis

Be sure to carefully dig the ground at the base, then sprinkle with sawdust, spruce branches. Remember: you can not use fallen leaves, because when rotting, a dangerous microflora for the plant is formed.

We figured out how to protect the grapes for the winter in the climate of the Middle Strip. Each gardener will find in the recommendations presented an affordable way to ensure a comfortable wintering of a heat-loving crop.

Majority horticultural crops require preparation for wintering, since there are always buds on the branches and shoots, waiting for the next growing season to wake up. They are the most vulnerabilities any bush, including grapes, therefore, in order to better cover all the lashes, it is imperative to remove excess processes. It is recommended to do this in two stages, the first of which must be started after harvesting. At this time, you still remember which branches had large clusters, which did not bear fruit at all, where the shoots ripen too slowly. Cut off all shoots that participated in fruiting, as well as empty and least developed. And, of course, those that developed from the buds on the old vine - the so-called spinning tops.

Removing extra shoots from the vine

The second stage of pruning begins immediately before sheltering, when the first light frosts were noted (the vine endures them without harm to itself). At this time, you need to remove those shoots that will not participate in fruiting next year. The scheme of how to cut grapes for the winter is very simple, first you need to get rid of those shoots that grow from the vine under the lowest wire of the trellis, located half a meter from the ground. Next, on each sleeve, we leave 2–3 of the strongest shoots growing upwards, and we cut off the branch above the extreme one, and also remove all stepchildren on the processes. Of the two tallest shoots above the second wire, we cut the lower one above the 4th eye, leaving it extreme (we get a replacement knot), and shorten the next one, leaving up to 12 eyes for fruiting next season.

Many gardeners experimentally found the best ones for themselves, based on the climatic features of the area and their own capabilities. We will offer the most proven. If you foresaw the need for shelter even at the planting stage and dug a trench along each row, planting bushes in it, then the lashes can only be correctly laid in the finished groove so that they are below ground level. But even if the vineyard is planted on even hilled ridges of the earth, it will not be difficult to cover the vine and the best way to do this is air-dry. It is enough to install low arcs over the lashes laid along the row, cover them with a film and sprinkle with earth.

Before laying the vine on the ground, be sure to place bars or bundles of spruce branches under the branches so that they do not touch the ground.

A bunch of spruce branches under the vine

There is another option, when the bush removed from the trellis is simply sprinkled with soil. However, in no case should it be taken near the grapes, as this can lead to freezing of the roots. It is for this reason that many gardeners do not recommend digging ditches along the rows, unless they are made in advance, before planting the vineyard. However, it is quite allowed to take soil from row spacings or from any place on the site, the main thing is that it has low content sand, but that it is loose enough. The main condition for this method is a snowy winter. If the cold is severe in your area, and snow falls infrequently, it is better to sprinkle the vineyard in several layers, alternating soil with leaves or sawdust.

There are others simple ways. For example, if there is no desired material, you can use whatever is at hand. In particular, cover the vine enough laid on the ground with fragments of slate sheets, setting them up with a house, and lay on top what is at hand: pieces of polyethylene, burlap, cardboard and even just paper, then sprinkling with dry leaves. Further, if the temperatures are expected to be really low, you need to add another layer of soil. In the presence of grooves and provided that there is a lot of snow in winter, it is enough to cover the grapes with straw and film, and then cover them with snow.

Before you remove the vine from the trellis, and even before you cut it completely, you need to take a number of measures that will ensure not only the harvest next year, but also help the plant better endure the winter. To begin with, after the first step of removing excess shoots (as soon as the crop is harvested), be sure to thoroughly water all the bushes to allow the shoots to fully mature. For each bush you will need about 10 buckets of water. Take breaks to allow moisture to soak into the soil. In this case, it is advisable to add a little potassium permanganate (no more than 1 gram) to the first bucket to get a pale pink liquid. This will serve as a prevention of many diseases of the root system.

Watering grape bushes in front of shelter

Now we loosen the soil at the roots, remove weeds so that there is less struggle with them in the spring, and be sure to bring organic and mineral fertilizers. The first will need more, for each plant you need at least 4 kilograms of compost or peat (be sure to mix with the soil) as well as about 2 cups of ash. Of the minerals, 50 grams of superphosphate and 1 gram are recommended. boric acid to the same area. In some cases, it does not hurt to reduce the acidity of the soil with the help of slaked lime, which is also added when digging the soil.

Next, you can trim. It is also recommended to withstand the bushes for several days at a low temperature, this will give them additional hardening in anticipation of winter. The main thing is that the temperature should be kept from -5 to -8 degrees and not fall below -10. Before covering the grapes, it is necessary to treat the vine with a 3% solution blue vitriol, this will make the whips unattractive to rodents and insects. Next, remove the bushes from the trellis and lay each vine on the ground in the direction of growth. How to do it right, the video will tell you. It is impossible to leave a bush in an upright position, even well wrapped, it will definitely freeze.

Detailed description of the shelter of the vine

Above, we briefly listed several options for protecting the vineyard from frost. Next, we will consider one of them in more detail. Let's create an air-dry grape shelter for the winter, optimal in the middle lane.

1. Removing the vine from the trellis. Across the ridges we lay bundles of spruce branches or a thick beam, you can use dry logs or thick tree branches. We remove the whips from the wire, carefully cutting off the ties, at the same time we examine each shoot, after frosts the tips of some could freeze, we cut them off. Only the stiffened part of the vine needs to be laid for the winter, all green unripe shoots must be removed, they will freeze - this is the main secret of how to properly prune grapes before sheltering for the winter. We stretch the lashes along the rows correctly, from bush to bush on the planted crossbars.
2. We lay covering material. As such, almost any film is suitable, it is desirable that it be dark. It is not necessary to install arcs if you do not have them and there is nothing suitable as an alternative, just put the material on the vine. Next, we press down the edges of the film with bricks or just large stones, you can also add soil. If laying on arcs, put them more often, in very coldy, you may have to completely cover the vine with soil, but it will be more convenient to do this if the covering material lies directly on the lashes.

And finally, a few more secrets for a successful wintering of the vineyard. Firstly, you need to pay special attention to the root: if the vine dies, it will be possible to grow a new one from the stem, if it freezes root system- the whole bush will die. Therefore, more soil should be poured around the bush, as well as a thick layer of mulch, at least 5 centimeters. And, secondly, the vine under the film during the thaw can ban, so it is necessary from time to time to lift the covering material and let the bushes air out.

Each gardener has his own proven approaches to how to cover the grapes for the winter in order to get the richest harvest later. Different varieties grapes feel great in temperate climate, tropics and subtropics. Some need only a mild climate, while others tolerate a greater decrease in winter temperatures well.

Gradation of varieties

The ability of grapes to survive in frost is called the frost resistance of the variety. And winter hardiness speaks of the property of varieties to withstand other adverse winter phenomena.

The following types of frost resistance are distinguished.

1. Highly resistant. This grape survives frosts well up to 25..-28°C with 80-100% viable eyes;
2. Varieties with increased resistance to frost. They well withstand 23..-27°C frost with the preservation of 60-80% of the eyes.
3. Medium resistant. This group is the most numerous. They are well preserved at winter temperatures down to minus 18 ..-21 ° C, with the preservation of 40-60% of the eyes.
4. Low resistant varieties. They can only tolerate 13-17°C. However, during the winter they can lose 100% of their eyes.
5. Varieties that are unstable even to frost 10 ° C

The division by frost resistance is relative. Some varieties can be correlated immediately with one and the other group. Different parts of the grape bush tolerate cold differently. So, older wood tolerates cold better than young wood. Of all parts of the plant, the main buds are the weakest to the effects of cold. And the most stable are dormant. The roots of the plant are more sensitive to cold than the vine.

Be sure to cover grapes of all varieties that grow in areas where thermometer readings habitually drop to 21 ° C in winter. If they reach only 16-20 ° C frost, then frost-resistant varieties can not be covered.

In addition, practice shows that grapes that grow near the walls of houses, being closed from the wind and a significant amount of precipitation, suffer from frost, but much less than that grown in the open territory of a summer cottage. Therefore, grapes of frost resistance corresponding to the region still make sense to cover if it grows in open areas.

Shelter preparation

Autumn cooling and the first frosts differ in time of onset even in the same climatic latitude. Therefore, it is advisable to prepare for the shelter of the grapes in advance, thinking about the possibility of a worse option. Annual shoots are considered very sensitive to the first frosts. Therefore, they are especially reverent attitude. It is necessary to make sure that by the time of possible early frosts, these shoots of the snake have matured well. To do this, growers during the ripening of the berries stop watering the grapes. From fertilizers refuse nitrogenous options. Harvest the entire crop, thin out the bushes.

In about a month, most often in September, the grapes begin to prepare for shelter. All bunches are removed. grape bush cut off. It will be correct to cut off all the unripe shoots, leave three on the right and on the left of those that have already finished fruiting. Cuttings are being prepared. In the second week of September, the grapes begin to be watered. Such preparation is especially required for light soil. This need is explained by the greater freezing of dry land. Watering is quite plentiful. There are at least 20 buckets for each bush. Purpose: to properly soak the earth to the desired depth. IN winter cold water in the form of steam will rise under the shelter of the grapes, warming them.

Naturally, the time at which sheltering begins is different in each individual region. Some recommend covering grape bushes immediately after the end of leaf fall. Experienced vine growers also recommend leaving the bushes uncovered during the first frosts. This preparation makes the grapes more resistant to future frosts. But the temperature should not be below 5-7 ° C frost. After that, before the onset of more severe cold weather, it is worth proceeding directly to the process of sheltering the vines.

Ways to shelter grapes

With the help of the soil. Land shelters are used more often than others. This is explained best results after wintering grapes, low cost and relative simplicity of the method.
The disadvantages of this method is the increased sensitivity of the vine to frost.

It is recommended that the plants be completely submerged in the prepared trench in the ground. In this case, the embankment should be no more than 20 cm. Otherwise, there is a danger that the kidneys will freeze. Excessive shelter of the vine is also not desirable. So she can spit, which will also lead to the death of the kidneys. To avoid this, the vine must first be covered with boards or other similar material, and then sprinkled with earth. An additional heat-insulating air layer remains under the boards.

During the thaw, as well as under the influence of other weather phenomena, the size of the embankment may decrease. Then you need to restore it.
In order to prevent mold and damage to covered grapes by some diseases, it is recommended to whitewash them with lime.

Shelter with shields. This method is also not difficult. However, it requires troublesome pre-training. You will need wooden shields measuring approximately 150 by 30 cm. Loops are attached to them. WITH inside shields are upholstered with roofing paper. However, the advantage of this design is the ability to use it to cover the grapes for several winters. The plant is placed on wooden planks or other similar material, thus eliminating the contact of the lashes of the plant with the ground. On top of the house, shields are laid on it, the place where one shield passes into another is additionally covered with small shields. Given the relative laboriousness of this shelter option, it is more in demand in areas with a small number of vine bushes.

Shelter with slate. This method has also proven to be reliable. Grape whips are tied into bundles (fascinators). Then they are wrapped, for example, in old bags. Then they are carefully placed in pre-dug grooves to a depth of 20 centimeters. Above them, staples made of wire or branches are fixed. From above, the wrapped lashes are covered with slate. He is covered with earth. Thus the grapes are in air gap. It also creates a thermal effect. Necessarily, in order to avoid defeat by some grape diseases before covering, carry out the processing of grape lashes with lime.

Sheltering grapes with film

To do this, the lashes of bushes need to be laid out on the ground. Above them, fix arcs made of metal or wood. Then you need to cover the entire structure with a film. Its edges are sprinkled with earth. This method is good for its simplicity and low cost. However, it will be correct to apply it for relatively cold regions. It is recommended to leave a small air gap with the structure. But in case of significant frosts, it must be covered. The disadvantages of this method is the need to be present on the site. You can never accurately predict the onset of frost or vice versa, thaw. So, during thaws, the kidneys may begin to wake up. And the frosts that come again will destroy them.

In such cases the best option is the use together with the film method of additional shelter of grapes, for example, dry leaves. At the same time, a pillow is made from dry leaves for the lashes of grapes, then they are strewn with them on top. Then the whole device is not tightly covered with a film and its edges are sprinkled with earth. When thawed, the film must be slightly opened. If the owner of the grapes is not on the site and frosts suddenly come, then even with an open gap in the film, dry leaves will keep the grapes well, preventing them from freezing.

Instead of a film, you can also use a couple of layers of fiberglass. It is able to pass air and retain moisture. Agrofabric has similar properties. It is good for frosts that occur in spring and autumn. Agrofibre passes water. On the one hand, this is good. But on the other hand, in severe frosts, the bushes can freeze. In addition, this fiber can stretch and, saturated with water, freeze to grapes in cold weather. This leads to the appearance of microburrs. Some gardeners, provided that there are not strong local frosts, are limited to covering the grapes and the land around the bush with coniferous branches. Some in severe frosts burn bonfires near sheltered bushes.

Thus, today there are different methods grape cover. Each grower supplements them with something of his own. The choice depends on the frost resistance and winter hardiness of the variety, specific climatic conditions, the age of the grapes, the availability of time for the gardener and his desire to preserve the plants in the cold and grow first-class grapes.